autumn 2010
grill ’s Pinot Gris Tasting
Pinot Gris Flavour of the month
By Keith Stewart
W
ine labelled Pinot Gris is one of the hottest items on New Zealand’s wine lists at the moment, although wines with this name lack the emphatic stylistic character that marks Sauvignon Blanc or the sophistication and quality that is a clear feature of Chardonnay. For all that this wine style is less than overtly aromatic it has been grouped within the aromatic category. Some do carry a mellow fruit nose that is pear-like in character, but of all the aromatics Pinot Gris has the least aroma. Known as Rulander in Germany, Tokay d’Alsace in France (where it is grown almost exclusively in the Alsace region) and as Pinot Grigio in Italy, European versions are as diverse in style as New Zealand winemakers’ efforts. A feature of the best is a rich viscosity in the wine which can impart a silky quality that supports high alcohol and naturally low acids. As a relatively early ripening variety, it is common in some parts of Germany as a quick route to late harvest, semi-sweet styles in the Spätlese and Auslese categories. The cheapest Alsatian versions are mild and earthy by comparison, deep
and rich with a touch of sweetness and greater alcohol content in the top flight wines. Remarkably bland in Italy, where it is commonly sold as colourless, odourless, thin, soft quaffers, it has become popular in the United States where it does not frighten typically simple consumers who want an unsurprising glass of imported wine. THE WINES
grill invited distributors and wine companies to submit wines currently available to the trade and secured over 54 samples. Most were from the 2009 vintage, though there were a few exceptions from 2008 and 2007. THE TASTING
The wines were clearly divided between those that had solid structure and those without. It was notable that the leading wines were made mostly by winemakers who are noted for the high quality reds they produce. Wine tasters’ comments are included for all wines scoring 6 and above, accompanied by an assortment of comments for lower-scoring wines, which are provided as samples of style and character.
grill WINE SCORING SYSTEM The wine notes listed reflect the comments of the judges and no other parties. The labels and/ or bottle shots accompanying the notes are paid for by the wine companies as a means of advertising their performance. Wines that are not supported by these images have been neither demoted in ranking nor had their scores reduced. All wines considered by the judges to be worthy of drinking have been scored on a 10-point scale.
OUR SCORES ARE AS FOLLOWS: Score 1 – 3 Simple beverage wines that range from pleasant to satisfying. Score 4 – 6 Quality wines ranging from promising to very good. Score 7 – 9 Premium wines at the top of their style, ranging from excellent to outstanding. Score 10 Once in a blue moon – a wine even the judges just have to swallow.
pinot gris taste
THE TASTING 9
QUARTZ REEF 2008 BENDIGO PINOT GRIS
Central Otago • Screw cap
Savoury, nutty, pear/peach wine that has excellent weight and a complex palate enhanced by rich texture. Has structure and length and layers of flavour. Dry, exceptionally well balanced, with minerality and a long, fine finish. Full bouquet, complex and strong with stone-fruits, floral and lees/oak characters. Well balanced with a mineral edge and a long fine finish. Superb. 8 ESCARPMENT 2008 PINOT GRIS Martinborough Diam
Full, robust bouquet with vinosity, lees and oak to complement the deep fruit characters. Excellent astringent balance, with late harvest fruit flavours and excellent length. Slightly funky character is intriguing, layered with delicious fruit flavours. Great balance and a real sense of individuality. 8 ATA RANGI 2009 LISMORE PINOT GRIS Martinborough • Screw cap
Fresh stone fruit and ripe floral notes, lees complexity and focused flavour in a late harvest style. Has length and structure. Silky textured with lovely integration of components.
8
NEUDORF 2009 MAGGIE’S BLOCK PINOT GRIS
Complex from first, with medium concentration, aromatic fruit characters and fine astringent balance. Beguiling nose has nashi and elderflower characters, and the full, weighty palate will cope well with rich foods. Lingering finish. 8 JOHANNESHOF 2008 MEDIUM PINOT GRIS
CHURCH ROAD 2007 CUVE SERIES PINOT GRIS
7
Moutere • Screw cap
3
Hawkes Bay • Screw cap
Full, concentrated, focused wine with lees complexity, vinosity and depth amongst stone-fruit flavours. Slightly oily texture. Complex and mealy wine with chalky/pear characters, impressive concentration and an earthy note. Nice weight, definitely a food wine. 6 MAIN DIVIDE 2009 PINOT GRIS
Marlborough Diam
Waipara • Screw cap
Fresh, focused wine with tropical fruit aromas. Lees complexity is a good foil for the late harvest fruit flavours and spice. Well balanced acidity, long finish. Classy. A touch of honey, lush and expansive.
Lovely wine with a citrus edge to the nose. Well balanced and focused. Ripe with lees complexity and excellent phenolic balance. Long flavours – old world style.
7
MARTINBOROUGH VINEYARD 2008 PINOT GRIS
6
Martinborough • Screw cap
Developed, full, complex bouquet with measures of lees and oak, balanced acidity and an off-dry finish. Great food wine. Rich and opulent, peachy, mealy palate with nuts and a nice glossy texture. Impressive.
Central Otago • Screw cap
Complex, layered and textural with vinosity as well as astringent balance. Mineral edge at the finish. Classic style. Flinty with citrus/apple notes, well structured and long finishing.
7
CARRICK 2009 CENTRAL OTAGO PINOT GRIS
Central Otago • Screw cap
Fresh, youthful wine with lifted floral aromas and nice lees texture. Ample acidity and some good astringency for balance. Yeast character is intriguing and the wine is vinous, well balanced and promising for bottle development.
MOUNT DIFFICULTY 2008 PINOT GRIS
6
WITHER HILLS 2008 PINOT GRIS
Wairau Valley • Screw cap
Appealing peach-blossom nose. Succulent, nice weight with acid balance and a long, fresh finish.
4
pinot gris taste
6
CLAYRIDGE 2008 PINOT GRIS
LOCHARBURN 2008 PINOT GRIS
6
6
VILLA MARIA 2009 SEDDON VINEYARD PINOT GRIS
Marlborough • Screw cap
Central Otago • Screw cap
Very ripe, mouth-filling, strong wine. Concentrated aromas with complexity and well-defined structure. Long, balanced finish.
Fresh simple style with a mineral edge. Natural acid balance is nice. Zesty and tasty. A juicy, elegant mouthful.
Attractive white peach, guava nose. Fruit flavoured and finished with good concentration and a strong finish. 6 TATTY BOGLER 2009 PINOT GRIS
Full, aromatic bouquet, lifted aromatics and stonefruit characters in the palate with the advantage of lees complexity. Good acidity and a mineral edge at the finish. Rich, with a full spectrum of fruit flavours and excellent length. 6 WAIPARA HILLS 2008 SOUTHERN CROSS SELECTION PINOT GRIS
Marlborough • Screw cap
Otago • Screw cap
6
THE EDGE 2008 PINOT GRIS
CAMSHORN 2008 PINOT GRIS
6
Martinborough • Screw cap
Waipara • Screw cap
Aromatic, fresh wine with some lees character. Floral with fine acidity. Candied apple and citrus characters with a good acid balance. Chalky.
Simpler style with hints of astringency and an off-dry finish. Crisp and firm. An appealing, summery wine.
6
BILANCIA 2008 PINOT GRIS
6
Hawkes Bay • Screw cap
Very floral, balanced, fruit filled wine. Rather delicate. Chalky and finely textured with vibrancy and charm. Zesty and fresh.
THE TASTING PANEL • Danny Schuster, a master of wine evaluation with international experience, particularly in Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Chardonnay and the Bordeaux varieties. He brought to this tasting a deep understanding of the fundamental structure demanded of top Pinot Gris, especially those which are expected to develop in bottle. • Auckland-based wine consultant and grill wine columnist Sam Kim, who is a regular member of these panels as well as a respected wine judge in competition formats. • David Stewart, a sommelier of long standing who is currently working at Tabou in Kingsland.
BILANCIA 2007 PINOT GRIGIO RESERVE Hawkes Bay • Screw cap
Nutty, mealy, pineapple and pear characters deliver complexity succulence and weight. Intensely flavoured, yet poised. 6 TINPOT HUT 2009 PINOT GRIS Marlborough • Screw cap
Full ripe bouquet with citrus and tropical characters, with fruit characters dominating throughout. Pleasant and mouth filling. A little short. 6 TRIPLE BANK 2009 PINOT GRIS Awatere • Screw cap
Youthful and clean, with good flow from beginning to end and subtle sweetness. Simple, a touch reductive, short.
Waipara • Screw cap
Layered, lemony wine with good feel. Good intensity, balanced acid, smooth and appealing. 6 VILLA MARIA 2009 CELLAR SELECTION PINOT GRIS No defined region • Screw cap
More complex wine with a lees aged bouquet. Mid-weight, balanced, off-dry finish. Nice harmony and length with acid structure. 5 MATAWHERO 2009 PINOT GRIS Gisborne • Screw cap
Lightly peachy wine, fresh and supple in style with typical flavours. A little simple, but pleasant.
Left to right: Danny Schuster, Sam Kim & David Stewart.
HUNTERS 2009 MARLBOROUGH PINOT GRIS
5
VILLA MARIA 2009 PRIVATE BIN EAST COAST PINOT GRIS
5
Wairau Valley • Screw cap
Floral and juicy with a crisp finish. Fresh, with full ripe fruit. Opulent with good astringent balance. Would be more impressive with some air. 5 MARSDEN 2008 PINOT GRIS Bay of Islands • Screw cap
Ripe, currently fruit forward, with an earthy, apple character. Reductive notes tend to detract from its strong points. Broad.
No defined region • Screw cap
STONELEIGH 2009 RAUPARA SERIES PINOT GRIS
5
Marlborough • Screw cap
RANSOM 2008 CLOS DE VALERIE PINOT GRIS
5
Matakana • Screw cap
Gisborne • Screw cap
KAIMIRA ESTATE 2007 BRIGHTWATER PINOT GRIS
5 SACRED HILL 2009 MARLBOROUGH PINOT GRIS
Nelson • Screw cap
5
VIDAL 2009 EAST COAST PINOT GRIS
5
JULES TAYLOR 2009 PINOT GRIS
5
Hawkes Bay • Screw cap
TRINITY HILL 2008 PINOT GRIS
Waipara • Screw cap
Gimblett Gravels • Screw cap
BABICH 2008 PINOT GRIS Marlborough • Screw cap
BRICK BAY 2009 PINOT GRIS
4
Matakana • Screw cap
COUPER’S SHED 2009 PINOT GRIS
4
Hawkes Bay • Screw cap
ALLAN SCOTT 2008 PINOT GRIS
5
Marlborough • Screw cap
Marlborough • Screw cap
4
Northland • Screw cap
Central Otago • Screw cap
Marlborough • Screw cap
SQUAWKING MAGPIE 2009 THE CHATTERER PINOT GRIS
4
Hawkes Bay • Screw cap
Hawkes Bay • Screw cap
DASHWOOD 2008 PINOT GRIS
ALEXANDRA WINE COMPANY 2009 ALEX GOLD PINOT GRIS
4
4
BUTTERFISH BAY 2009 PINOT GRIS
4
MONTANA 2008 RESERVE PINOT GRIS
OMAKA SPRINGS 2009 PINOT GRIS
4
No defined region • Screw cap
C.J.PASK 2009 GIMBLETT ROAD PINOT GRIS
5
CURIO 2008 MORRELL VINEYARD PINOT GRIS
5
THORNBURY 2009 PINOT GRIS
5
Awatere Valley • Screw cap
4
Hawkes Bay • Screw cap
ESK VALLEY 2009 PINOT GRIS
5
VAVASOUR 2008 PINOT GRIS
4
Marlborough • Screw cap
WAIRAU RIVER 2009 PINOT GRIS Marlborough • Screw cap
Matakana • Screw cap
No defined region • Screw cap
5 5
MICHAEL RAMON 2008 PINOT GRIS
4
Marlborough • Screw cap
Richly textured, less vibrant style of moderate weight, offdry with a touch of phenolic balance.
Marlborough Diam
BRUNTON ROAD 2008 PINOT GRIS
5
JOHANNISHOF 2008 TROCKEN PINOT GRIS
4
3
MICHAEL RAMON 2009 PINOT GRIS Matakana • Screw cap
This tasting was held at TASTE and conducted with the assistance and support of the Restaurant Association of New Zealand.
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