Table of contents 1-‐ Introduction..………...2 2-‐ Love of looking and an introduction to blogging……………..……….....5 3-‐ The Importance of first impressions………………………………..…….…10 4-‐ Ways of seeing……………………………………………………………..…….…...17 5-‐ Blogging as a brand: Eszter Farkhas………………..…………….………….25 6-‐ Bloggers as celebrities……………………………………………………….....….32 7-‐ Blogging as a career………………………………………………………..….........34 8-‐ Bloggers as models……………………………………………………………….….38 9-‐ Blogging as a marketing tool……………………………………………….…....41 10-‐ Conclusion……………………………………………………………………………..45 -‐-‐ List of Illustrations…………………………………..……..46 List of Citations…………………………...……….…………47 Bibliography…………………………………………..………49 Appendix………………………………………………………..53
1- Introduction No longer the property of few, the online fashion climate has now made design and trend reporting available to many. One of the ways that this has been achieved is through fashion blogging. Blogs have allowed people to communicate their own views and opinions regarding the fashion industry, as well as also providing a quick and accessible way for people to view fashion online. “…In the past, only those who were privileged in some way had the means to publish widely. Today, however, there is much to suggest that modern societies have reached a new stage in the relationship between writer, publisher and reader with the recent rise of electronic and digital publishing.” (SEFTON-‐GREEN 1998: 84). Sefton-‐Green acknowledges here, that it is no longer established figures within the industry that are able to communicate their thoughts and opinions. The digital environment has now progressed in a way that enables anyone to speak their mind and create their own online presence. Chiara Ferragni (see Fig.1) is an example of today’s successful fashion bloggers that reports on fashion trends and events from all over the world. Her blog documents the shows she attends, the clothing she wears and the designers she interacts with. This type of regular updating has led to the success and popularity of her blog, The Blonde Salad.
Figure 1 Chiara Ferragni for The Blonde Salad blog.
This rapid increase in fashion blogging has had a huge impact on the fashion industry, introducing new people into areas of authority. Blogging has opened doors to new fashion marketing and advertising tools and has also created a vast new platform on which consumers can view and discuss fashion within a public domain. Large fashion corporations such as CONDE NAST have spotted the potential in this new media vehicle and implemented this communicative strategy into their online presence. Online fashion platforms such as VOGUE online, now feature numerous blogs written by several established individuals within the fashion industry, to update consumers on trends and events but from a ‘bloggers’ perspective. Blogging is widely perceived as an unbiased, more personal way to view fashion, as most writers adopt a more casual voice, which in-‐turn makes the consumers feel more in power over what they are reading. Whereas magazines and websites that feature advertisements endorsed by brands and companies often repel their anti-‐mainstream consumers. In reflection of this, blogging offers a platform on which people can communicate with the more niche area of the fashion market. “If you’ve noticed a rise in fashion bloggers, you’re not alone. This niche community is growing at a steady pace, with Technorati citing more than 8,500 fashion-‐focused blogs as of September 2011.”(Allan 2011 :Online). The rise in fashion blogging has ultimately led to fashion becoming more accessible to the public and has created a whole new digital world in which Fashion online has a dominant platform. The unique voices portrayed through today’s most prestigious fashion blogs, are not that of experienced fashion industry figures and well-‐established conglomerates; but of new, inspirational and original individuals that have something to say. With blogging becoming so popular, especially amongst brands and magazines, this raises the question: Are we, as consumers, more interested in looking at blogs and observing fashion in this more personal, visual way, rather than reading about the same fashion content in written articles?
2- Love of Looking and an introduction to bloggers To answer this question I am going to introduce you to the idea of “The love of Looking”. By this I mean the consumers obsession with seeing the new trends and clothing at a fast pace within the media. For the means of this essay, The Love of Looking ultimately outlines the consumers fascination with all things visual, be it images on a blog, brand editorials or fashion trend reports from designer events. I am going to explore how the love of looking has created a demand for fast-‐paced fashion reporting online, in the form of blogs. -‐-‐ The concept is nothing new, and is an integral part of today’s modern popular culture. Whether it is paparazzi photographing the countless celebrities of today’s media industry or the sheer amount of gossip magazines and online celebrity news sites; it raises the question as to whether it is our love of looking that has created a demand for such an outlet. It is this idea of celebrity that has influenced how we view and consume fashion online. Bloggers are now becoming modern day fashion celebrities, by gaining a wide readership with their blog posts and increasing the popularity of their blog. It is our fascination of looking that drives us as consumers to search online for visually inspiring images; and the fast paced accessibility of blogging has provided the perfect platform for us to do so. It is these ideas that I will be exploring further throughout this essay.
“…You know, because of the Internet, is the world shrinking, are we all becoming too homogenised? Milan hasn’t changed, Paris hasn’t changed, New York hasn’t changed, so I don’t think it’s really become homogenised, it’s just given us, what I like to call, a digital park bench. So many people you meet say ‘”I love to just go people watch, just sit in the park and watch people”. Before you are limited to what’s in front of you, your own park. Now, you can go on the Internet and look at a blog like mine, or other blogs based somewhere else. Really, the whole world is open to you now.” (SCHUMAN 2011:online) The infamous street-‐style blogger, Scott Schuman of The Sartorialist blog, describes viewing street-‐ style as a way to see the world of style through your computer screen. The availability of fashion online, via blogs and other style websites, has opened doors to enable consumers to view different styles from all over the world. “This is particularly important, both because it sets common standards in what is a competition driven market place and because it effectively functions as a kind of global language, thus releasing participants from geographical constraints and allowing easy international communication. Its relative simplicity also enhances the notion of open access for all.” (SEFTON-‐GREEN 1998:85). The points that Schumann and Sefton-‐Green raise here also support the idea of the love of looking. It is this desire to ‘look’ at styles and fashion from all over the world, that makes people want to follow these style blogs, and keep re-‐visiting them to see more. This topic is also addressed in Digital diversions (SEFTON-‐GREEN). What can be described as a digital revolution in fashion blogging and online style documentation can be supported by Sefton-‐Green’s theory that the simplicity of the online function opens it up to a wider audience. Enabling people to view fashion from all over the world. People who view blogs, are attracted to the online method as it provides a fast way to access the new, current fashion trends, updates on catwalk events and news within the fashion industry. It became popular as a way to see an unrestrained, behind the scenes coverage of the fashion world. Events, parties and catwalk shows that were once exclusive are now being covered by the most up-‐ to-‐date, and in-‐demand fashion bloggers who want to deliver their experiences and opinions through their blogs. Our love of looking, as consumers, has provided a demand for the online platform of blogging; and it is this online accessibility and wide variety of fashion blogs that have successfully met this demand.
Here bloggers Lucy Nicholls and Amanda Start talk about their experience behind the scenes at London Fashion Week 2011.
Lucy Nicholls - Snippets of Shiny Thoughts
What show are you most looking forward to this LFW? Im most looking forward to Belle Sauvage which is today and very me! Have you spotted anyone worth mentioning yet? I've not been at LFW very long so far so not really seen anyone! Did brush past my friend Billa though, I'll try and catch up with him soon. He does all the photography for BFC - all those bright shots in the banners on the website. He's amazing! What are you wearing today? Today I am wearing Holly Fulton for ASOS leggings, next blouse, Mulberry Leah bag and Kurt Geiger platform boots! What's the best thing from a goody bag today? No goody bag yet! Boo.. Heels or flats? Both! a la working girl, i go and come back in flats and wear chunky, sensible heels when i'm there! On or off schedule? I love the off schedule and have to because I rarely get invited to anything on schedule! Wish I was though.. My favourites, those that I can see me wearing and loving though are usually off.
(NICHOLLS, L. 2011: online)
Amanda Start - Online Stylist
What show are you most looking forward to this LFW? The Jasper Garvida show starting in about an hour - a personal favourite. Have you spotted anyone worth mentioning yet? Hilary Alexander and Brix Smith Start What are you wearing today? J brand jeans, Designers Remix top on loan from Monica and Joe, Hobbs Trench and necklace by Clare Hynes. What's the best thing from a goody bag today? Havent had one yet but know I have in coming from Jasper Garvida so will let you know! Heels or flats? Topshop wedge ankle boots-so far not too uncomfortable.
(START, A. 2011: online)
-‐-‐ The Sartorialist blog is one of the most successful fashion and street style blogs today. With his candid street-‐style shots portraying busy yet stylish urban city life, he provides a delicious online look book of the fashionable city folk from all over the world including Milan, New York and Berlin. By catching his stylish subjects’ movement as they walk across a crowded street or pass a taxicab, he truly captures the essence of bustling city life. This in turn portrays Schuman as the creative individual he is and allows people recognise his work.
Figure 2 an image from the Sartorialist blog.
Fig 2 is an example of the kind of images that can be found on the Satorialist blog, displaying his visual interpretation of style in New York. He is renowned for his ability to “capture real moments in life, that you don’t usually stop and look at” (SCHUMAN 2011: online). -‐-‐ This innovative way of communicating through online media allows people, who would not normally get an opportunity, to communicate their opinions to the masses through the medium of blogging. It is this rise in fashion blogging that has caught my interest. It is the unique voice of the “blogging entrepreneurs” that has captured the newly realised fashion authority, Captivating the online fashion consumer into coming back again and again to read their blog. It is this authority that has made the fashion industry phenomenon, of fashion blogging, able to take off and become the innovative way of making fashion accessible to the masses. This authority is obtained from authenticity, sincerity and honesty. It involves clever branding, audience manipulation and effectively crafting an online persona that a reader can relate to. “We can more or less fabricate our identities for ourselves. We have a degree of choice about how to represent ourselves”. (WARD 1997: 124). In teach yourself postmodernism Ward describes how anyone can choose their visual identity; representing themselves in any way they wish. This supports the idea that bloggers can brand themselves in a way that will promote their own personal style and identity. Within this dissertation I aim to explore the world of online fashion, looking at how fashion and style blogs have shaped the industry today. I will investigate how people create a cyber-‐realistic stance of authority within the fashion industry by the use of self-‐branding and the presentation of self; whilst meeting the on-‐going demand for the consumer’s love of looking.
3- The importance of first impression The first aspect of the love of looking I want to explore is the importance of first impression, and how bloggers present and promote themselves to create their own online brand. “The presentation of self is fundamental to our lives-‐ in particular avoiding those who might cause us harm and in finding people who are ‘on our wavelength”. (Polhemus 1996:1). It is this way of presenting one’s self that initially introduces us into society on a daily basis. What someone chooses to wear may be dictated by their social surroundings, work environment or even their friends and family. It is because of this subjective tie that we, as humans, have to our surroundings that we subconsciously dress in an appropriate way. An example of how we adhere to social expectations is the way in which uniforms are used within society. “We wear uniforms to project something about ourselves that we would want others to know, and also talk ourselves into a part we want to play in life, much as an actor makes a transformation into a role when he puts on a costume.” (Dunn 2009: 1) This reinforces the idea that people dress to reflect a role they are about to take on, i.e. a fashion blogger who is about to publish a post online about a new outfit choice will ultimately style themselves from head to toe in order to communicate their own personal style to their readers. This also reinforces the value of social acceptance, and how people dress in a certain way to be accepted by their audience. Whilst some fashion bloggers are styling their visual appearance in a way that is personal to them, they are also seeking the acceptance of their viewers. “Central to any such argument is the idea that our dress, hair, footwear and so forth-‐ what Erving Goffman collectively termed our “Presentation of self”-‐ functions as a medium of expression, and moreover that such visual communication can “say” certain things, -‐ or at the very least express them-‐ more immediately and powerfully than verbal language ever can.” (Polhemus 1996:8) This proves that the way bloggers visually represent themselves on their blog is a reflection of how they wish to be perceived by their audience. They are able to create an online visual identity of their own choice.
Ward highlights in the following quote (below) how this postmodernist view has enabled people to choose who they want to be and how they want to be perceived. -‐-‐ “It becomes possible to start choosing your identity, rather than simply being born into it. You start to worry about who you really are and what you should be doing with your life. With this new self-‐ consciousness about who you are, could be or should be, you become more desperate to achieve a recognised, stable identity” (WARD 1997:107) -‐-‐ It is interesting to think that what someone may choose to wear one day, may not be acceptable to wear another. This raises the question regarding how people censor their style to fit daily subjective requirements. This is a fundamental point on which style blogging is based; fashion bloggers document their day-‐to-‐day style, communicating what they wear for certain social situations. It is within these social situations that people desire acceptance and recognition of their style, and where their presentation of self may directly influence the course of their day. For example, if someone were to stifle his or her original day-‐to-‐day style in order to adhere to a certain dress code, for example in a workplace. This person may style themselves to fit a certain brand, certain working environment or simply to fit in with a certain crowd. Styling themselves in this alternative way is their way of finding acceptance within a social situation.
Figure 3 Cindy Van Der Hayden for COTTDS.com
“In effect, the triumphant development of modern fashion opened up an important new space for the liberating presentation of the private self. The acquisition, wearing and display of clothing as a means of signifying a unique social identity arguably wielded a more radical cultural influence…” (Breward 2003:161) In figure 3, the blogger Cindy Van Der Hayden has presented herself in such a way that in keeps with her consistent online visual identity. Through her presentation of self she is signifying the same visual values ubiquitously associated with her blog, COTTDS.com (come over to the dark side, we have candy).
Figure 4 Cindy Van Der Hayden for COTTDS blog.
Figure 5 COTTDS.com blog.
Figure 6 Cindy Van Der Hayden for COTTDS blog.
As seen in the previously displayed images, there is a strong visual consistency regarding Cindy Van Der Hayden’s visual identity. Her dark, sometimes grungy, yet classic style allows the viewer to understand the blogger on a pictorial basis; understanding her style, and knowing what to expect from her other blog posts. Her images are a greying hue in colour, and have a soft-‐gothic air to them. Her style and overall visual identity, both within her fashion and photographic styling, is ubiquitous to her blog. The consistency of style throughout her posts helps to build a strong personal brand and effectively emanates her personal style. Readers can then effectively relate to this persona, leading to the further success of her blog. With this in mind it is ultimately the presentation of self that plays an important role in the course of everyday life. Allowing people to express themselves appropriately within social environments, their visual representation speaks volumes about their personality whilst also representing them as a figure within a social or professional body. This also applies to bloggers when they visually represent themselves through the medium of their blog. They are presenting themselves in a way that will relate to their reader, and gain their acceptance. The way bloggers visually brand themselves through the use of their imagery creates an online persona that the reader can then associate with that particular blog. Whilst considering the strength of a bloggers personal branding, it is also important to consider the strength of the consumer desire to view fashion blogs. With both these factors in mind, it can be possible to draw a theoretical formula that suggests how a blog becomes successful. If a blogger has managed to create an effective personal brand, and has the ability to draw out the consumers desire for their love of looking via the use of fashion content and imagery; this then creates a successful blog with a strong, loyal returning consumer readership behind it. Blogs such as The Blonde Salad, Style Bubble and The Style Rookie are examples of popular blogs that have become successful through effective personal branding and the promotion of self. The presentation of self plays an irreplaceable role within this achievement and the people behind these blogs are prime examples of this.
4- Ways of seeing Coinciding with how bloggers present themselves through their photographic imagery and appearance it can also be suggested that there are slight voyeuristic tendencies within the blogging and online viewing infrastructure. When talking about the love of looking, there are certain voyeuristic aspects that are sometimes apparent. A Blogger posts images of themselves onto an online platform; thus allowing the whole world to see them. It can be argued that this demonstrates slight traits of narcissism and self-‐obsession. However it is more effective, and less extreme, to describe it as a love of looking. The motives behind the publisher (blogger) have been addressed in the previous chapter, however it is the motives behind the viewers that is more important when it comes to exploring the reasons behind the love of looking. -‐-‐ Theories such as voyeurism and the male gaze have been used within the media for decades, through films such as Peeping Tom (1960) and Blue Velvet (1986) each of which introduce controversial viewpoints on voyeurism and “scenes of people looking at things they shouldn’t”(MELIN, E. 2008: online).
Figure 7 Film still from Peeping Tom (1960).
Although these films, as examples, are extreme portrayals of voyeurism, they were revolutionary at the time and have, in turn, influenced artistic fashion editorials ever since. To describe blogging as voyeuristic would be an exaggeration, however within the context of this essay I am aiming to explore what minor traits of voyeurism have filtered through into online media. The main idea I wish to address is that we, as viewers, can access thousands of images online at our own disposal, without the fear or guilt of being seen ourselves. This harks back to Schuman’s rationale of being able to “see the world from your own digital park bench”(SCHUMAN 2011: online). Voyeuristic factors, which ultimately encourage the viewer’s love of looking, have been implemented into advertising campaigns throughout the fashion industry. Designers such as Tom Ford and Agent Provocateur have voyeuristic undertones within their marketing campaigns. Agent Provocateur’s seasonal video campaigns such as ‘Soiree’ and ‘Love me Tender’ (WILLIAMS, G. 2010:online)(see appendix) are strongly influenced by voyeuristic camera angles and points of view; tastefully capturing women in revealing lingerie in compromising positions. Similarities can be drawn between this video campaign, and the inspirational 1960’s film, Peeping Tom. (See Fig. 7).
Figure 8 -‐ Film still from the Agent Provocateur "Love me Tender" video 2011 (WILLIAMS, G)(online).
This visual technique harks back to the common conception of a love of looking and people watching. The slightly controversial and voyeuristic aspects of these examples are extremes that suit the aforementioned brand, Agent Provocateur.
Tom Ford is also a hugely influential figure in voyeuristic-‐inspired marketing techniques, being one of the ‘first contemporary designers who really understood the power of marketing’ (TUNGATE, M. 2008:20). Tom Ford was the brainchild behind the reinvention of Gucci in the winter of 1995. In Fashion Brands, Mark Tungate describes this as “the Texan turning the brand upside down”. Tom Ford carved a world around Gucci’s name, and Tungate describes his influence upon its marketing and advertising strategies in the paragraph below. “So, what did the Gucci name mean exactly? It meant sex. Ford brought lust back into fashion with a series of overtly exotic ads that were quickly tagged ‘Porno Chic’. A famously over-‐the-‐top example showed a crouching man gazing at the Gucci logo shaved into a woman’s pubic hair-‐ beautifully photographed, of course”. (TUNGATE, M. 2008: 20).
-‐-‐
After taking these industry examples into consideration, I’d like to highlight that it is people’s ‘love of looking’ that has led to the huge success of campaigns such as Tom Ford’s ‘Porno chic’ approach to marketing. It is our ravenous desire to look upon the human form, and its’ material commodities, through the use of imagery that drives this particular area of the fashion industry forward. The Love of looking covers all matters of media, whether it be films, magazine editorials or images on a website; all of which are created to meet the consumer’s demand for visual stimulation. This is why advertising campaigns implement stylistic theories such as mild-‐voyeurism, to attract the consumer gaze and encourage them to look twice. Ultimately creating a successful image. Tom Ford’s advertising campaigns, shown in figures 9 and 10 (following page), are prime examples of the sexed up approach to his brand. These editorial shots feature a well-‐dressed man examining and enjoying the naked female form; portraying the man’s own love of looking whilst also evoking the same feelings from the consumer. These images perfectly portray the love of looking as an underlying message, inspiring the viewer to observe the image in the same way that the man does: with a voyeuristic satisfaction.
Figure 9 Tom Ford's advertising campaign 2008 (online)
Figure 10 Tom ford. Neroli Portofino Ad campaign (online).
Figure 11 Editorial from ones2watch website (online).
These images from ones2watch talent website also attract a voyeuristic eye. The naked female form allows the viewer to see a normally hidden part of the body. This invites the viewer in and intrigues their visual curiosity. This ultimately encourages the consumer’s love of looking in the sense that we, as mass media consumers, expect fast paced accessible fashion imagery online. Once again creating a demand for fashion bloggers and websites such as ones2watch.
Similarly to Tom ford’s sex appeal inspired advertising, French connections 2011 campaign (see fig. 12) also has a voyeuristic undertone. The idea of ‘The Woman’ as an object harks back to the basis of the Gaze theory, with French Connection portraying the female model in their campaigns as an impersonal object.
Figure 12 French Connection Ad campaign (2011).
The strap line of the campaign: “she is knowing we are looking”, implies the sexual and amorous tendencies of the campaign, introducing the idea of looking and observing the female form. The brand uses this technique to their advantage, by using sex appeal to draw the viewer in whilst also focusing the main attention on the clothing that the model is wearing. By sexualizing the object in this campaign, French connection creates a kind of secret, mildly voyeuristic experience attached to the advert. From which the viewer will take a substantial amount of visual satisfaction. -‐-‐ The idea that ‘sex sells’ is certainly apparent in marketing strategies demonstrated by brands such as Tom Ford and French connection, to name but two. Advertising strategies such as these are examples of how voyeurism and other ideas such as the love of looking are implemented within the advertising industry. It is this point that can be associated with the success of online “people watching” such as blogging, social media and street-‐style blogs. Although it is to a much lesser extent, it is these aforementioned aspects of voyeurism and the concept of observing someone that ultimately creates the idea of the love of looking. Our love of watching people, be it through films or images, formulates the underlying qualities of demand and desire for Fashion blogging and street style. -‐-‐
5- Blogging as a Brand- Eszter Farkhas So far I have introduced the idea of the love of looking, and explored to what extent voyeurism has influenced the way in which we observe fashion imagery online. We began to touch upon how the presentation of self and personal branding creates a more successful, popular blog. How someone presents his or herself visually dictates how they will initially be judged on first impression. How they are perceived on a longer timescale, will be a result of their tone of voice, personal style and online content. This will then reveal whether their blogging style incurs a popularity and loyalty amongst their readers and target market. The way bloggers present themselves online, is not only through the way they present themselves visually, but also through the content that they offer to their consumers. A blog that has a successful image will not therefore be successful without strong content. Here I am going to look into how bloggers achieve both requirements to create a successful blog. Within the next chapter I will further explore this idea. I will be looking at how bloggers present themselves visually in correlation to their online persona; and by creating their own USP within the online fashion industry they effectively present and promote themselves to their audience. -‐-‐ Eszter Farkhas, of the blog Stylorectic.com, is a fashion and style blogger who interprets her personal style through her images. The photographic styling of her images (see Fig. 13-‐16) is very strong and consistent. Modelling the clothing and accessories herself; she portrays her artistic and creative individual style.
Figure 13 Eszter Farkhas for Stylorectic blog (online).
As you can see in figures 13 to 17 it is a common, artistic trait of Farkhas’ to conceal her face, whether this be behind her hair or using accessories such as sunglasses. She also uses her hands posed in front to conceal her facial features and expressions throughout her images. This can be interpreted as the bloggers signature style, that she has implemented into her blogging technique to reinforce her individuality and personal style. The following images are featured on her Stylorectic blog, and successfully demonstrate Eszter Farkhas’ individuality and the way she wishes to present herself. These images are an example of the visual stimulation she evokes in her reader. It is these images that have allowed Eszter Farkhas to not only create a successful blog, but to also create her own personal brand. Her strong visual identity is something that her readers immediately associate with her blog, Stylorectic. The following images demonstrate how Eszter Farkhas presents her personality through her images to successfully create a coherent online persona for herself.
Figure 14 Eszter Farkhas for Stylorectic blog (online).
Figure 15 Eszter Farkhas for Stylorectic blog (online).
Figure 16 Eszter Farkhas mood board-‐ demonstrating her personal style of "concealing her face".
Figure 17 Eszter Farkhas collaboration with Top shop-‐ T-‐shirt designs.
As a result of Eszter Farkhas’ popularity and effective self-‐branding, she has been part of collaboration with Topshop, one of the leading fashion brands on the British high street. The blogger’s ubiquitous photographic styling and unique persona was replicated on t-‐shirts, which captured and represented the trends on the high street at the time. Subsequently these t-‐shirt designs (Fig. 17) were sold in Topshop stores all over the country. The images not only represent an iconic trend popular at the time, but they also personify Eszter Farkhas’ image and promote her as an esteemed fashion blogger. The concept of the love of looking, as discussed earlier, covers all of the following aspects. From blogging and advertising to the production and consumption of material commodities, such as these blog-‐endorsed garments.
6- Bloggers as celebrities Fashion blogging has two very contrasting sides; whilst the author of a popular blog has the assumed authority to create a hype around any given designers or trends of that season, they are also looking to create a hype around themselves as individuals in the industry. “The celebrity system principally addresses the organisation of concepts of individuality and identity for the culture”. (MARSHALL, 1997: 185). The foundations of a successful blog are built upon individuality and identity, and as Marshall discusses in the quote above, this is also the foundation of the celebrity system. It can therefore be suggested that by being a representative of a famous blog, you are therefore famous yourself by representing individuality within a certain culture. “The cult of celebrity in which the late nineteenth -‐ and early twentieth-‐century fashion designer played such an integral part, was one of the earliest means by which fashionable commodities could be marketed and publicised to a consumer constituency much wider than the narrow urban elites of Paris, London and New York who formed the core customer base of the great couturiers” (Breward 2003: 103) Breward talks here about the initial utilisation of celebrities within fashion marketing and how this creates a wider consumer audience. With this theory in mind, Fashion blogging (as a media vehicle) applies the same reasoning to the personality behind the writing. By this I mean the popular voices behind blogs, such as Style Bubble, Stylorectic and The Sartorialist are now becoming well-‐known names; thus becoming celebrities of the blogging revolution. “I love your site, sorry I didn’t recognise you, it’s the man behind the camera”(ANON 2011: online), This informal quote comes from a woman on the street of New York in The Sartorialist creative video on Vimeo.com. Although his face is not instantly recognisable, (as a celebrity) his name and website are infamous amongst fashion lovers. “Celebrity culture is one of the most important mechanisms for mobilizing abstract desire. It embodies desire in an animate object, which allows for deeper levels of attachment and identification than with inanimate commodities.” (ROJEK, 2001: 189) Rojek states here that consumers can relate better with the idea of celebrity. A famous blog, in comparison to an unknown blog, will have built a rapport with its consumer and will have created a deeper “level of attachment” with its viewer. By doing this, successful blogs are creating relationships with their consumers and thus establishing a loyal fan base.
Figure 18 Scott Schuman of the Sartorialist blog (online).
“Prioritize influence over monetization: Their online presence and ability to influence the fashion industry is a higher priority than monetizing their blogs. The top bloggers are becoming celebrities in the world of fashion in their own right, which opens up a wide range of financial opportunities.”(ALLAN 2011: online). Here Scott Allan reports on the critical values that differentiate bloggers from other publishers. It is how they “thrive on being the first to report the newest trends” (ALAN 2011:online) that sets them apart as fashion authorities. Scott Schuman (see fig.18) has become renowned for his unique creative vision when photographing street style in cities such as Paris and New York. “When I look at something I don’t really think, you know, is that fashionable enough, and is that of-‐the-‐moment enough? I’m just reacting” (SCHUMAN, S 2011: online). He thrives on photographing style, that isn’t necessarily fashionable but is visually enticing, thus adhering to the concept of the Love of Looking. Images that do not necessarily serve a purpose (but nonetheless provide a visually satisfying, appealing or impressive perspective on something) are all products of the love of looking and the consumer’s desire for beautiful imagery.
7- Blogging as a career The relationship between blogger and reader is a multifaceted surface; with each face raising another question to which the blogger needs to find an answer, in order to be successful. What is going on in the industry today? Who are the top current designers? Whose face is on the front of what magazine? It is this type of fast-‐fashion content that readers want when searching through blogs. By meeting this desire bloggers can ensure that people will read their blog, as long as they’re updating their content. It is on these same principles that the designer-‐blogger relationship also depends; A designers’ success of a new range ultimately depends on who is featuring them within their media content: “Editors can make or break a designer by featuring (or ignoring) his or her work in a magazine.”(Welters 2007:275) The authority that editors have over their content is ultimately the deciding factor as to whether or not a designer gets their desired media coverage.
Figure 19 Susie Lau (of StyleBubble.com) at the British Fashion Awards 2011.
The blogging revolution has meant that consumers are taking content control into their own hands, and deciding for themselves what designers they want to see online, and who’s work should be made viral. This has opened doors to designers, as they are no longer solely seeking the approval of high-‐up magazine moguls to be featured on their glossy pages. They are now looking for new, exciting and innovative ways to get noticed so as to create ’hype’ around their brand. Bloggers are now becoming the authority behind online fashion; declaring which designers are at the forefront of current trends. This, in return, grants bloggers exclusive invites to designers shows and events, as designers want them to cover the event on their blogs. (As seen in figure 20. Blogger Susie Lau of StyleBubble is sitting front row at catwalk events during London Fashion Week).
Figure 20 Susie Lau front row at Krystof Strozyna “London Fashion Week S/S12 Day 1”
Designers also know that, by having their shows and collections covered online by fashion bloggers, consumers will read their blog and be inspired to view the designers’ work. -‐-‐ “Sell by showing and promoting” (PEGLER 2006: 5). Here, when speaking of visual merchandising, Pegler acknowledges that sales are increased when an item is displayed visually and promoted well. A designers garments will look 2D on their retail website. Yet when fashion bloggers cover the same designers events and catwalks, and photograph garments behind the scenes, consumers will interact with a more personal, exclusive side of the designer. When a blogger features a certain garment on their site, consumers will see the design in action; thus the promotion via blogging increases both awareness and desirability of the designer’s work. Likewise, After attending Designers shows, bloggers photograph themselves in that designer’s garments; wanting to share their ‘look’ with their readers. Bloggers who do this can be described in Malcolm Gladwell’s term as a maven. “A Maven is a person who has information on a lot of different products or prices or places. This person likes to initiate discussions with consumers and respond to requests.”-‐ (PRICE, L. 2001: 62) Could this not be a description of the hundreds of bloggers gracing every fashion-‐followers homepage? Bloggers love to communicate looks and trends, provoking feedback, comments and discussion regarding the designer, the trend and the price. It is ultimately this communicative online community that supplies the ever-‐growing strength behind the blogging phenomenon. “The critical thing about Mavens, though, is that they aren’t passive collectors of information. It isn’t just that they are obsessed with how to get the best deal. What sets them apart is that once they figure out how to get that deal, they want to tell you about it too.” (GLADWELL, M. 2001:62). This theory suggests that ‘Maven’ Bloggers won’t just attend the shows and absorb the fashion for themselves; they will document the event for all fashion followers to see on their blogs. They ultimately want to share their fashion knowledge and experiences with their valued online readers.
“Today’s mannequin often resembles the shopper on the other side of the glass; it may have a flawless figure, but far from perfect features. This prompts the customer to think, ‘If that mannequin can look so great, why not me’. That’s reality, that’s selling! The visual merchandiser, therefore, presents the image of who or what the shopper can be when using the merchandise displayed”. (PEGLER 2006: 3). When searching through popular blogs, today’s standard ‘fashionista’ will come across accessories and clothing on blogs that she, too, desires. With this in mind, what better promotion is there than a blogger posting a photograph of herself wearing Topshop’s new collection, or an up-‐and-‐coming designer’s innovative creations. The new generation of blogging has provided a vast, viral marketing tool online that promotes fashion to millions of readers every day without the use of direct advertising. Fashion Blogging is essentially the new Visual Merchandising of online fashion. The same way that a consumer is seduced into a store after seeing the window displays, the online consumer is seduced by the images on a blog. Our love of looking, ultimately succumbs us into this area of consumerism.
Figure 21 screen shot of “The blonde Salad” blog.
8- Bloggers as models “Models are the public face of fashion; taste in models changes rapidly as fashion constantly searches for the new. The popularity of childlike models in the late 1960’s was eclipsed by healthy, natural types in the early 1970’s; the faces of supermodels graced magazine covers in the 1990’s, but were replaced by actresses in the new millennium. Models have generated controversy in recent years. Critics claim that the tall, willowy bodies of models set unrealistic expectations for personal appearance among young women” (Welters 2007:275) -‐-‐ In ‘The Fashion Reader’, Welters discusses how the ever-‐changing climate of fashion correlates to the ever-‐changing faces of models. This raises the question as to whether bloggers are becoming the new-‐era of online models. It’s a commonly raised issue regarding standards set by models of the day. Are they too skinny, do they set realistic targets for young women to aspire to? It is with these questions in mind that I address the possibility of bloggers success coming down to the fact that women can ultimately relate to their candid and honest online personalities easier than they can with supermodels on the glossy pages of a magazine. Rumy Neely, the voice behind the well-‐known blog, Fashion Toast, is an established fashion blogger and model. By establishing herself as a blogger she is communicating to her reader on a one-‐to-‐one basis, creating a realistic visual persona that her readers can relate to. The images on her blog are not airbrushed, perfected models, as seen on the glossy spreads of magazines, but day-‐to-‐day candid shots of the bloggers lifestyle and visual identity. It is this online portrayal of fashion lifestyle that fascinates the reader, and begins to build a relationship between the writer and their audience. -‐-‐
Figure 22 Rumy Neely. Fashion blogger and model.
Figure 23 images from FashionToast.com
9- Blogging as a marketing tool “Burberry sponsored ‘Anglomania: Tradition and Transgression in British Fashion’ in 2006, The opening galas for these exhibitions have become New York’s ‘party of the year’, featuring designers, models, socialites, actresses and benefactors dressed to complement the exhibition’s theme. The Partygoers attire is reported in the media, in a never-‐ending cycle of fashion-‐watching.”
(Welters 2007: 276) In the same way that the media reported the ‘partygoers attire’ at the ‘Anglomania’ event in 2006, both print media and online magazines report what celebrities are wearing to similar events today. It is also with the same principle that bloggers document what they are wearing on a day-‐to-‐day basis; contributing themselves to the ‘never-‐ending cycle of fashion-‐watching’ (WELTERS 2007: 26). It is the never-‐ending demand for visual material to feed our love of looking that creates a market for paparazzi and street style. Whether its fascination with celebrity or material product, it is our love of looking that created a demand for this area of the market. Similarly it is for this reason that blogs gain readers online. This constant updating of imagery also contributes to the vast online documentation of fashion and trends. Coinciding with the newfound surge of fashion blogging, the love of looking (SCHUMAN 2011:online) is also on the rise. This involves catwalk reports and trend watching on websites such as Vogue and Stylist Pick and in weekly fashion magazines such as Grazia and Look. These magazines thrive off the consumer’s lust for trend photos and weekly fashion fixes; showing them what’s being worn on which celebrities.
Figure 24 StyleHunter for Grazia Magazine (Bauer Consumer Media 2011:online).
Figure 25 Bloggers for Grazia Magazine (Bauer Consumer Media 2011:online).
Not only are magazines catering to the ‘People watching’ revolution by keeping on track with day-‐ day-‐trends via their street style feature ‘Style Hunter’ (Bauer Consumer Media 2011:online). They are also up-‐to-‐date with their trend blogging. Grazia for example feature over 12 blogs, with more in development. These blogs range from fashion gossip columns’ to dedicated blogs for individual celebrities such as Kate Middleton. (See Fig25.) By introducing bloggers into their company, they are catering to the blogging consumer and using blogs as a marketing tool to communicate to a wider audience.
Designers are also integrating blogging into their marketing strategies. The Designer, Evil Twin Australia has a site on the blogging platform, BlogSpot, called PlatinumEvil. This is a digital platform from which people can view the designer’s look books online, and see their personal inspiration and digital thought processes within their online posts.
Figure 26 JODES & SARE, 2011. Of Evil Twin clothing range, website. (Online)
Whereas the website for this design label follows the standard formal formats of online retail (see fig. 26), their blog shows a more informal side to the designers’ personalities. Signing each post off with ‘Jodes’ or ‘Sare’ (JODES & SARE, 2011: online) portrays a more chatty and friendly dialect to their audience, creating a very laid back atmosphere to their brand. This allows the designer to build a more personal rapport with its customer.
Figure 27 JODES & SARE, 2011. Of Evil Twin clothing range. Blog (online).
Figure 27 is an example of the kind of images posted on the PlatinumEvil blog that demonstrates the informal side to a designer. This insight into the designer’s personalities allows its consumers to relate to their brand, and create a closer relationship with them. Consumers within the fashion industry thrive on the ‘behind-‐the-‐scenes’ effect. When they get to see a personal side to a designer, they enjoy to hear about what they’re thinking, see their inspiration, and to be able to communicate with them.
10- Conclusion Blogs have created another world online in which a customer can experience a brand or a designer as a person rather than just an impersonal retail website. This is achieved through self-‐promotion and the presentation of self, as discussed in the earlier chapters. It is the love of looking, which has been explained throughout, that creates a consumer demand for viewing fashion online. In result of this, fashion and style blogging has rapidly become the most successful way in which to meet this demand. Bloggers communicate to their audience through the use of self-‐ promotion and by creating a strong visual identity through their online presentation of self. In conclusion, the presentation of self and how bloggers present themselves visually online is the contributing factor as to why consumers “love to look”. It is the rapidly growing online blogging community that provides millions of images from a readily accessible platform; that feeds the consumers love of looking. It is our love of looking, as consumers, that drives this area of the fashion industry forward. Blogs will continue to post thousands of images per day to feed our desire to see more. This essay has outlined why this is and how blogging entrepreneurs have used this cultural trend to work their way up to eventually become established members within the fashion industry.
List of Illustrations Figure 1 Chiara Ferragni for The Blonde Salad blog............................................................................................... 4 Figure 2 an image from the Sartorialist blog. ...................................................................................................... 10 Figure 3 Cindy Van Der Hayden for COTTDS.com................................................................................................. 14 Figure 4 Cindy Van Der Hayden for COTTDS blog................................................................................................. 15 Figure 5 COTTDS.com blog. .................................................................................................................................. 16 Figure 6 Cindy Van Der Hayden for COTTDS blog................................................................................................. 16 Figure 7 Film still from Peeping Tom (1960). ....................................................................................................... 19 Figure 8 -‐ Film still from the Agent Provocateur "Love me Tender" video 2011 (WILLIAMS, G)(online). ............. 20 Figure 9 Tom Ford's advertising campaign 2008 (online) .................................................................................... 22 Figure 10 Tom ford. Neroli Portofino Ad campaign (online). ............................................................................... 23 Figure 11 Editorial from ones2watch website (online)......................................................................................... 24 Figure 12 French Connection Ad campaign (2011). ............................................................................................. 25 Figure 13 Eszter Farkhas for Stylorectic blog (online). ........................................................................................ 28 Figure 14 Eszter Farkhas for Stylorectic blog (online). ......................................................................................... 30 Figure 15 Eszter Farkhas for Stylorectic blog (online). ......................................................................................... 31 Figure 16 Eszter Farkhas mood board-‐ demonstrating her personal style of "concealing her face". .................. 32 Figure 17 Eszter Farkhas collaboration with Top shop-‐ T-‐shirt designs. .............................................................. 32 Figure 18 Scott Schuman of the Sartorialist blog (online). ................................................................................... 35 Figure 19 Susie Lau (of StyleBubble.com) at the British Fashion Awards 2011.................................................... 36 Figure 20 Susie Lau front row at Krystof Strozyna “London Fashion Week S/S12 Day 1” .................................... 37 Figure 21 screen shot of “The blonde Salad” blog................................................................................................ 38 Figure 22 Rumy Neely. Fashion blogger and model. ............................................................................................ 41 Figure 23 images from FashionToast.com ........................................................................................................... 42 Figure 24 StyleHunter for Grazia Magazine (Bauer Consumer Media 2011:online). ........................................... 44 Figure 25 Bloggers for Grazia Magazine (Bauer Consumer Media 2011:online). ............................................... 44 Figure 26 JODES & SARE, 2011. Of Evil Twin clothing range, website. (Online) ................................................... 45 Figure 27 JODES & SARE, 2011. Of Evil Twin clothing range. Blog (online). ......................................................... 46
List of citations (SEFTON-‐GREEN 1998: 84) (ALLAN 2011:online) (SCHUMAN 2011:online) (SEFTON-‐GREEN 1998:85) (NICHOLLS, L. 2011: online) (START, A. 2011: online) (SCHUMAN 2011: online) (WARD 1997: 124) (POLHEMUS 1996:1) (DUNN 2009: 1) (POLHEMUS 1996:8) (WARD 1997: 107) (BREWARD 2003:161) (MELIN, E. 2008: online) (SCHUMAN 2011: online) (WILLIAMS 2010:online) (TUNGATE, M. 2008:20)
(TUNGATE, M. 2008: 20) (MARSHALL 1997: 185) (BREWARD 2003: 103) (ANON 2011: online) (ROJEK 2001: 189) (ALLAN 2011:online) (SCHUMAN,S 2011: online) (WELTERS 2007:275) (PEGLER 2006: 5) (PRICE, L. 2001: 62) (GLADWELL, M. 2001:62) (PEGLER 2006: 3) (WELTERS 2007:275) (WELTERS 2007: 276) (WELTERS 2007: 26) (SCHUMAN 2011:online) (BAUER CONSUMER MEDIA 2011:online) (JODES & SARE, 2011: online)
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Additional Sources RUBIK, A. i-‐D Magazine -‐The Winter Warm Up Issue; ANJA RUBIK dons her lycra with David Bailey and Charlotte Stockdale.
List of images (online sources) Figures 3 – 6-‐ CINDY VAN DER HEYDEN FOR COTTDS.COM (“ Come over to the dark side, we have candy”) , Milan February 2011 . (online). Available at :http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.265079430198760.66051.145719735468064#!/ph oto.php?fbid=265090680197635&set=a.265079430198760.66051.145719735468064&type=3&thea ter Fig. 8-‐. Tom Ford Ad campaign (2008) (online): available at: http://www.designboom.com/weblog/cat/13/view/3010/tom-‐fords-‐provocative-‐new-‐ad-‐ campaign.html Fig. 9-‐ Tom Ford Neroli Portofino Ad Campaign . Available at: http://m2.paperblog.com/i/34/348256/tom-ford-neroli-portofino-ad-campaign-L-hUHq9m.jpeg Fig. 10 -‐ New wave editorial spread from talent website. Available at: http://www.theones2watch.com/newwave/6839 Figures 12 – 16 -‐ Ella Farkhas for Stylorectic blog. 2011. (Online). Available at: http://stylorectic.blogspot.com/ Fig. 18: Susie Lao at the British Fashion Awards 2011. (Online). Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/spy/celebrity-‐photos/2011/11/28/british-‐fashion-‐ awards/gallery/2#/image/27 Fig 19-‐ Susie Lao front row at Krystof Strozyna. (Online), available at: http://prettydivine.blogspot.com/2011/09/london-‐fashion-‐week-‐ss12-‐day-‐1.html Fig. 23-‐. StyleHunter for Grazia Magazine (Bauer Consumer Media 2011:online). Available at:http://www.graziadaily.co.uk/ Fig. 24-‐-‐ Bloggers for Grazia Magazine (Bauer Consumer Media 2011:online). Available at:http://www.graziadaily.co.uk/ Fig. 25 & 26 – Images from Jodes & Sare of the PlatinumEvil blog, of (Evil Twin clothing range 2011: online). Available at: http://eviltwinthelabel.com/
Overall word count: 6,985 (excluding quotes.)
Appendix WILLIAMS, G. for Agent Provocateur. ‘Love me Tender’. 2010. (online). Available at: http://vimeo.com/8722055 (accessed on 2/12/11).
SCHUMAN,S. 2011. Interview with The Sartorialist blogger (Scott Schuman) by intel.com/visuallife. (online). Available at http://vimeo.com/18624866 (accessed on 2/12/11).