CULT URAL STUD IES
MEHAK GARG- UGFD LEVEL 2
WEEK ONE
Maori
History & Origin The Maori are believed to be the indigenous people of New Zealand, immigrating here from Polynesia on canoes many years ago. This event was known as the "Great Fleet". These polynesian people settled New Zealand and became known as the Maori. They formed their own unique culture, language and traditions.The Maori hunted the variety of birds and fish they found around New Zealand, and favoured the warmer climates of the North Island.Land wars broke out with the arrival of the European settlers. In 1840, the Treaty of Waitangi was written and signed by several Maori Chiefs which gave the British monarchy sovereignty over parts of New Zealand. Confusion has long remained over what the treaty actually said and meant, as the Maori version translates differently to the English version. The Maori believed they retained the rights to their land.
You can tell social status and family history through a Māori Tattoo. Each Ta Moko (Māori Tattoo) is incredibly unique, communicating tribal messages from ancestors around things like family, tribal affiliations and the wearer’s social standing. Moko is a type of visual language connecting the wearer to their family tree. Often, Ta Moko was applied to the face; because the head is seen as the most sacred part of the body, to wear Ta Moko on the face is a very strong declaration of who you are as a Māori. Traditionally, Māori would use chisels and knives made from sharpened shark teeth, and ink made from burnt wood, gum or other natural products.
Maori Culture Maoris greet people by pressing their noses & foreheads together known as Powhiri. They say the 'breath of life' is shared between them.
'Haka' is a war dance which is performed before the onset of a war.
'Maoris cook food underground known as 'hangi'. They use earth as it gives a unique smoky flavour.
Traditional Clothing
Traditionally, they made their clothes and adornments from native plants, and bird and animal skins. There was a great variety of garments, including many kinds of cloaks. Clothing, adornments and even hairstyles showed a lot about a person’s status, and fine clothes could enhance authority.
They used plants such as harakeke (New Zealand flax), cabbage trees and grasses to make fabrics. They also used birds’ feathers and skins, and the skins of seals and kurč (Polynesian dogs).
hair adornments like ephemeral feathers, flowers and leaves. Bone, stone or wooden combs, called heru, were worn only by men of important status.
Ta Moko (Māori Tattoo) is incredibly unique, communicating tribal messages from ancestors around things like family, tribal affiliations and the wearer’s social standing. Moko is a type of visual language connecting the wearer to their family tree. Often, Ta Moko was applied to the face; because the head is seen as the most sacred part of the body, to wear Ta Moko on the face is a very strong declaration of who you are as a Māori
Maori traditional colours come from the story of creation.
Skirt made from flax plant
RED represents the blood BLACK represents "Te Po" that was spilt the darkness
PRESTIGE CLOAKS Cloaks represented the authority and status of a person. The richest and the people considered of having the highest rank wore the most prestigious & expensive cloak which had the most complex making. Types of cloaks include: Kahu kurī had a base of closely woven flax fibre, completely overlaid with strips of stitched-on dog-skin or dog hair. Pauku or pukupuku (literally swelling, inflammation) cloaks were woven with compact rows of single-pair weft twining creating a dense fabric. They were worn as protective garments in combat. When immersed in water the fibres expanded, making the cloak impenetrable.
Feathered cloaks Red kākā-feather cloaks were especially highly prized. Its feathers symbolised warmth and protection, as well as stunning beauty. In later garments, feathers from introduced birds were used in an endless array of multicoloured patterns and designs. Kaitaka Kaitaka are generally very large, and were worn to drape around a person several times. Korowai the korowai, evolved from the rain cape.
WHITE represents "Te Ao Marama" - the light
Maori Clothing: Significance Complexity The most prestigious garments were labour-intensive in construction, incorporating rare or valued elements. They were worn only by those with high status and power.
Extending Personal Authority For people of high rank, items of dress could serve as extensions of the owner’s personal power. A chiefly garment, or even part of it, could be used to set something aside for exclusive use, signifying a type of potential ownership.
Iwi/Tribe Variations
Modesty
Potential Danger
Clothing and hairstyles varied from region to region, so it was often possible to identify someone’s iwi from their appearance.
Before the arrival of Christian missionaries from 1814, Māori had their own concepts of modesty. Male modesty was maintained by wearing penis cords. During the times of James Cook’s voyages, women were described as always wearing something round their waists.
Because of this complex relationship between items of dress and personal mana, early chiefly garments are very rare. Any clothing or other possessions were seen to be a risk to others, and discarded items were hidden or buried as a precaution.
newzealand vacations.com. 2020. Traditional Maori Clothing Symbol and Support to Cultural Identity. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.new-zealand-vacations-in-west-auckland.com/maori-clothing.html. [Accessed 21 April 2020]. te ara. 2020. Story: Māori clothing and adornment – kākahu Māori. [ONLINE] Available at: https://teara.govt.nz/en/maori-clothing-and-adornment-kakahu-maori. [Accessed 21 April 2020]. tamakimaorivillage.co.nz. 2020. FIVE THINGS YOU DIDN’T KNOW ABOUT MĀORI CULTURE IN NZ. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.tamakimaorivillage.co.nz/blog/five-things-you-didnt-know-about-maori-culture-in-nz/. [Accessed 24 April 2020] lovenewzealand. 2020. Maori. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.lovenewzealand.net.nz/maori/. [Accessed 24 April 2020]. virtualoceania. 2020. MAORI CULTURE. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.virtualoceania.net/newzealand/culture/maori/. [Accessed 24 April 2020]. maorisource. 2020. MAORI SOURCE Maori Culture. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.maorisource.com/MaoriCulture.html. [Accessed 24 April 2020].
WEEK TWO
RESISTANCE THROUGH FASHION
FASHION AS A TOOL FOR EXPRESSING IDENTITY AND BELIEF. What is Fashion? This term is so versatile that it means something different for every human on this planet. Some see fashion as way to express their personality, their sexuality, their beliefs, the things they stand for, a tool of rebellion or as a status symbol. On the other hand for some people it is just a necessity, a way of survival through different climatic conditions, some people don't even bother about fashion. Everyone at the moment of her/his interaction with others, through clothing selects the Persona who she/he wishes to be. Identity is the understanding of who we are, what we identify with, and how our frameworks affect us. Fashion has a longstanding relationship with both social and personal identity, and is one of the most visible expressions of it. The way we dress can communicate to others how we portray ourselves in different social situations, underlined by social expectations and norms, to how we express our sense of true self. This process enables us to understand who we are and who we are not. Living in a time and place where individuality, personal autonomy, and freedom of choice is valued highly it is easy to think that we can free ourselves from conversation. Our personal identity is also built upon this, as it is the visual and aesthetic representation of who we are. Different styles come with different expectations, and with the great freedom that the rise of individualism and the decline of elitism has mediated, it is possible for us to express ourselves through what we wear in a way that allows us to consciously play with these expectations. Some strategies that media and advertising companies use to sell the products create a lot of pressure and impact on peoples’ lives. These pressures consist of: how the body should reflect that of a ‘temple’, whether plastic surgery is the way to achieve this in order to create individualism, and the ongoing concerns of being size zero. Unconsciously, we adopt and borrow identities from the media, which help fabricate our own. This is an unconscious decision as we take on these identities with an ironic state of mind. Subconsciously the messages we are fed sink in somewhere, leading us to want to become something or somebody else.
THE BLACK PANTHER PARTY The Black Party was an essential part of the black oower movement whose main purpose was to fight for the African - American race. The members usually had a standard uniform consisting of black leather jacket, black pants, powder blue shirts, an afro, dark sunglasses and the most importantly the black beret. The beret was a symbol of rebellion against the injustice towards the African- American. This uniform confirmed their goals & ideas. People used to call them "urban militants" as they used to march in rallies, carrying weapons and this uniform. The black beret became an international hat for the revolutionary.
Billy Porter knows how to own the red carpet The actor consistently sets the bar for every red carpet event, his haute couture looks that break through gender stereotypes. On various events, the actor is using his growing visibility to affect change beyond his roles on screen. Porter is also among an influx of cisgendered entertainers that are abandoning the binary for a more fluid expression. He is a huge believer of "Art as Activism". An openly gay, African American man approaching 50, the Kinky Boots star's sartorial gestures are downright political. The POSE actor doesn't care about being different, as he is proudly gay and dresses with pride. These are some of his ground breaking looks from the past Grammy's , Met Gala, Oscars and Golden Globe Awards events. All hail the queen!
RETROP YLLIB
INDIAN(JAIPUR) POLICEWOMEN A woman is raped in India every 13 minutes. In 2016, six women were gang-raped every day; a bride was murdered for dowry every 69 minutes. Was there gonna be any solution for this. Police forces across the country are hoping they’ve found an answer: all-female squads. Launched in New Delhi, Jaipur and Udaipur, they’re part of an effort to tackle incidences of sexual assault. These squads have been armed with guns, pepper spray, stun guns and body cameras, and guard crowded areas of the city on motorbikes (they can zip down narrow streets quickly where sexual assault often takes place). Each woman on the squad completed a month-long training programme, which included martial arts, fitness, meditation, learning sections of the law needed in the field and horse-riding. Dressed in a blue two-piece, with a baton hanging loosely off their back pocket, the women look intimidating– and that’s entirely the point. The squads originally wore khaki uniforms, like the rest of police in Rajasthan, but were swapped out for a darker tone six months later. In a society dominated by men, the women needed a way to stand out – to show everyone they meant business. These women feel confident in this uniform, they no longer feel that any man has the audacity to look at them in a wrong way. Women feel more comfortable approaching them and sharing their problems.Indian women are not giving up – they've taken charge of their lives and refuse to play by society's shaming rules.
KANYE WEST The Confederate flag is a sign of slavery which is still used by white people in the southern part of America to discriminate against the black. Kanye West tried to change the meaning of the flag by wearing it on his bomber jacket and on his 2013 Yeezus tour. Why did he do that? He did that because by appropriating something that is abhorrent to them they are trying to change perceptions and upheave preconceived meanings. He said , "Subversive art is absolutely necessary to challenging preconceived notions and ideas. Subversive art is why black rappers saying “Nigga” will never mean the same thing as a white person saying it. The context doesn’t just matter—it’s the entire point. "
He also said that, "The Confederate flag represented slavery in a way. That’s my abstract take on what I know about it, right? So I wrote the song ‘New Slaves.’ So I took the Confederate flag and made it my flag. It’s my flag now. Now what are you going to do?”
IRIS APFEL When it comes to imagination and style, there’s no one quite as inspiring as Iris Apfel. A style queen from Queens unlike any other, eccentric but chic, experimental yet classic, Iris Apfel has been a pioneer in the revolution of the fashion industry. She’s a stylish example of alternative aging; letting the masses catch up to her as she continues to ramp up the style barometer with everything she puts on.
Apfel rose unconventionally as a revolutionary by becoming the first woman to wear jeans during a time when they were only tailored for men. Some of her famous quotes include: "More is more, less is bore." "I don't dress to be stared at, I dress for myself." “The worst fashion faux pas is to look in the mirror and not see yourself.”
REFERENCE black power. 2020. The Uniform of The Black Panther Party. [ONLINE] Available at: http://blackpower.web.unc.edu/2017/04/theuniform-of-the-black-panther-party/. [Accessed 12 May 2020]. WebsiteStyle caster. 2020. Billy Porter’s Golden Globes Look Is Totally Bridal—and Perfectly Dramatic. [ONLINE] Available at: https://stylecaster.com/billy-porter-golden-globes-look-2020/. [Accessed 1 May 2020]. Websitethe blast. 2020. Billy Porter Is A Fashion Queen That Slays All Day. [ONLINE] Available at: https://theblast.com/111441/billyporter-is-a-fashion-queen-that-slays-all-day. [Accessed 1 May 2020]. Websiteforbes. 2020. How Billy Porter Is Breaking Barriers With His Red Carpet Style. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.forbes.com/sites/roytelmontero/2019/01/14/how-billy-porter-is-breaking-barriers-with-his-red-carpetstyle/#4e00396365b2. [Accessed 1 May 2020]. Website2oceansvibe news. 2020. Kanye West Explains Why He Wore The Confederate Flag Read more: https://www.2oceansvibe.com/2015/07/01/kanye-west-explains-why-he-wore-the-confederate-flag. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.2oceansvibe.com/2015/07/01/kanye-west-explains-why-he-wore-the-confederate-flag/. [Accessed 7 May 2020]. Websitecoveteur. 2020. 10 LESSONS TO LIVE BY FROM IRIS APFEL. [ONLINE] Available at: https://coveteur.com/2016/04/26/iris-apfel/. [Accessed 7 May 2020]. WebsiteThe Fashion Collector. 2020. 90 Is The New 20: Nine Things You Never Knew About Iris Apfel. [ONLINE] Available at: https://thefashioncollector.com/iris-apfel/. [Accessed 7 May 2020]. Websiteelle uk. 2020. Rebels With A Cause. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.elle.com/uk/life-and-culture/a22099543/female-squadindia-rape/. [Accessed 7 May 2020].
WEEK THREE
REPRESENTATION S U B C U L T U R E S
guerrilla
publishers,
warriors,
informants,
underground
and
railroad
operators
of
Résistance
La
waged
clandestine
war
Nazis
a
against
the
and
the
collaborationist
Vichy
government;
Les
Zazous, with their outlandish fashion, and
passion
shameless
opposed the
them
streets
Paris.
In
for
the
1970s
for
every of
so,
paved
the
day
on
occupied
subcultures
and
jazz,
Anglophilia,
doing
inadvertently
.pobeb dna zzaj
gniws ot yldliw gnicnad dna gnihtolc hsirag ro gib gniraew
yb ytilaudividni rieht gnisserpxe elpoep gnuoy erew yehT
The
they
the
way
of
the
invention
of
clubbing.
ZAZOU
country’s
regime
and
its
prime minister Philippe Pétain were collaborating Nazis
to
laws
with
impress
on
a
youth
the
occupying
strict
morality
population
it
deemed lazy and dissident.
A
1942
that
all
donate be
government
decree
barbershops hair
to
the
manufactured
asked
collect
war
into
and
effort,
to
slippers
and
rebellious zazous refused,
and
sweaters. The
grew their locks long.
H I S T O R Y
&
O R I G I N
The zazous were a subculture in France during World War II. the of
regime
established
Youth
to
education,
fiber,
along
ominously
titled
where
necessary
the
would take place.
Ministry
oversee
moral
productivity,
its
with
‘Youth
their and the
Worksites’
indoctrination
taht snoitome rehto eht lla dna noitartsurf ,tsugsid ,regnA
Vichy
the
sroloc rieht dna sdnuos rieht dah ecafrus eht htaeneb desruoc
conservative
years,
dna eciov meht evig ot neek oot ylno erew suozaZ eht dna
those
.noisserpxe elbisiv
During
drape
‘drainpipe’ their
suits
with
trousers
under
sheep-skinned
jackets
and
lined
brillianted
liberally their long hair.
the
look
by
brightly
tiny
was
complemented colored
mustaches,
heavy
socks,
cotton
wool
or
ties,
and
S T Y L E
Dirty
The
New
Look
:
‘Hats
were
far
too
large,
skirts far too short, jackets far too long, shoes
far
too
heavy…
For
lack
of
other
materials, feathers and veils, promoted to the dignity of flags, floated through Paris like revolutionary banners. But as a fashion I found it repellent.’
&
‘Chamberlain’ umbrellas.
tThey also adopted a style of similar
Suit”
to
the
created
African
“Zoot
by
young
Americans.
Parisians
modified
The
the
style
adorning themselves in wildly striped, sport
excessively coats
padded
with
shoulders.
was
intended
the
Nazi
long,
to
heavily The
style
openly
ration
on
defy
textiles
and fabric.
Unlike
the
trousers often
Zoot
were
worn
in
In
addition
to
zazous
went
wear
further
the
Star
protest
Occupation.
coat the
fabric,
to
the
above
excessive even
and
to
sports
draped
torso.
Zazou
narrow
contrast
extravagant loudly
Suit,
some
as
of
far
David
against
as to
Nazi
C L O T H I N G
dress
Men
tight
roll-collar
flared shoes, lenses, went
skirts
and
sported put
sweaters
on
wooden
dark
to
short
platform
glasses
heavy
bare-headed
with
with
make-up
show
their
big and
dyed
hair, set off by a lock of different hue.
Women
Female
Zazous
sometimes
striped
or
stockings
shouldered
net
jackets, bold
bleached blonde hair
opted and
red
for
wide-
lips and
T H E
Z A Z O U During taken
the root
respite home,
M U S I C
interwar
years,
in
African-American
from
Paris. the
emigrated
racial to
a
healthy
jazz
discrimination
the
city,
scene
artists, they
enriching
had
finding
faced
the
at
musical
Refusing down
to
like
Zazous
Even
most
to
front
heads the
also
draw
themselves
signature in
their
Parisians,
would
attention some
keep
with
choreography.
of
town
national
monuments
sentries
and flag,
they
‘Swing!’,
hop
on
and
guarded
draped
Swastika
halls
by
with
the
would
yell
the
spot,
scream, ‘Zazou hey, hey, hey, za Zazou!’, times,
slap shrug
their their
hips
three
shoulders
twice, and finish by turning their head to the side.
huZ haZ gnos eht morf eman rieht tog yehT
embrace swinging jazz.
.yawollaC baC naicisum naciremA eht yb haZ
landscape and encouraging homegrown talent like to
When
the
yellow
forced
star
upon
Jews,
some zazous wore yellow word even the
star
went Star
their
painted
“zazou.” as
of
protest
as
David
own
with
Some far
was
to
the
zazous to
wear
further
against
Nazi
Occupation.
They
drank
fruit
juice
or
beer
with a shot of grenadine syrup, and
were
particularly
grated carrot salad.
S E M I O T I C S
fond
of
SOULBOY In
the
late
1960’s,
an
underground
music
movement thriving with youth, soul and a style identity
all
weekend
club
Ultimately
of
its
scenes
the
evolving
deferring
from
popular.Although the
early
in
scene
constantly
by
own,
1980s
the
North
was
populated of
of
mainstream Soulboy it
England.
based
perception
the the
heavily
scene
received
on
a
'cool'
and
and
the
was
huge
little
media
coverage, and was overshadowed by the more dramatic
exhibitionism
Romantics.
of
the
decade's
New
H I S T O R Y & O R I G I N
Soulboys
were
a working
class English youth
subculture of
the
late
1970s
and
early
1980s, and fans of American soul and funk music. The subculture emerged in North-West England as northern funk of
and jazz
the
soul event
funk sounds
obscure
1960s
soul
of
attendees
artists
records
such
that
began
to
as Lonnie
take
Liston
characterized
the
more
interest
Smith and Roy northern
soul
in
the
modern
Ayers,
instead
scene.There
was
simultaneous development of the subculture at nightclubs in South East England, such as The
Goldmine
soulboy
scene
George
Power
in Canvey
Island and
included Chris )and Chris
The
Hill, Robbie
Bangs.
Caister
Royalty
in Southgate.
Vincent, Froggy, Greg Soul
Weekenders
DJs
involved
with
Edwards, Pete
became
one
of
the
Tong (
the
main
features of the scene, and still exist today. After 1983, the Soul Boy scene in South East England metamorphosed into the Rare groove scene of the mid 1980s, which only finally died out with the UK Acid House boom of 1988.
C L O T H I N G Fashion on the dance scene
was a symbolic statement of passion, dedication and lust for fast paced
Northern Soul life. It was
a uniform, uncompromising of style, durability and movement. Dance
enthusiasts and regulars on the scene wore attire that suitably combined the
logistics of sportswear and fashion credentials of the post-mod era.:
&
S T Y L E
GIRLS/WOMEN swirly
skirts
for
girls.
Hawaiian
shirts,
mohair
jumpers,
jelly
sandals and brightly coloured jeans were popular.
It was an environment,
where "black kids found the courage to express
themselves in the clothes that they wore". IBOYS/MEN
On the club circuit menswear was typically smart. Lads in their
youth
wore
polo
shirts
and
yellow.
flared to
be
leg,
in
nostalgic Trousers
comfortable An
clothing
and
‘Wigan
and
were
and
late
Casino’
paid and
fringed wedge haircut.
fitted shades
vests, of
high-waisted 60’s
durable,
embroidered bags,
slim
primary
channelling
dancing.
at
tight
club
disco to
to
‘Blackpool
blue, with
vibes.
withstand
patch
homage
t-shirts
usually
infamous
Mecca’.
burgundy a
Shoes a
and
wide had
night
sewn
of
onto
all-nighters
and
sideways
Soulboys
were Fans
and
music.
a is
funk
pioneering a
legend
soul
dressed
time
it
and
an
by
involved scene Hill,
the
exciting
pure
revival
of
Soul,
records.
DJs
soulboy
included
Chris
and
Vincent, Froggy.
Weekenders
the
always
the
Robbie
Edwards Soul
with
DJ
and
part
was
Blues
Jay is
funk
has
re-discovery
Rhythm
soul
awarded
the
and
inspired
and
of
MBE
every
Soulboy.
US
Norman
on
scene
of
main
Greg Caister
became
features
of
scene, and still exist today.
M U S I C
one the
The culture of Bengal defines the cultural heritage of the Bengali people native to eastern regions of the Indian subcontinent, The Bengali people are its dominant ethnolinguistic tribe.
Bangali
Culture
enlightenment in
fine
arts,
and
is
perceived
excellence
humanities
and
of
as taste
knowledge,
but in broader terms, it is an integrated pattern of human knowledge, behaviour, beliefs, shared
customs,
morals,
conventions,
attitudes,
social
organisation
and achievements.
BENGALIS
One of the earliest foreign references to Bengal is the mention of a land ruled by the king Xandrammes named Gangaridai by the Greeks around 100 BCE. The word is speculated to have come from Gangahrd ('Land with the Ganges in its heart') in reference to an area in Bengal. [44] Later from the 3rd to the 6th centuries CE, the kingdom of Magadha served as the seat of the Gupta Empire.
Archaeologists discovered
remnants
of
a
4,000-yearold Chalcolithic civilisation in the
greater
and
believe
of
the
[42]
Bengal
the
finds
earliest
settlement
in
region, are
one
signs
of
the
However,
region.
evidence
of
much older
Palaeolithic
habitations form
The Bengalis have come a long way through the journey including the Middle Ages, Mughal era, British colonisation, Bengal renaissance, Independence movement and the partition of Bengal.
have
of
a
were
found
stone
and
human in
the
implement
a
hand
axe in Rangamati and Feni di stricts
of
Bangladesh.
[43]
The
word
Bangla
unknown,
origin ~
of
the
Bengal
though
it
is is
believed to be derived from a tribe called Bang that settled in
the
area
around
1000 BCE.
H I S T O R Y
&
O R I G I N
the
year
C L O T H I N G Bengal Traditional costumes are very simple and seem calm. They represent the rich tradition and culture of the region. Bengal's sartorial legacy derives from the royal patronage and the nobility that valued the richness of traditional techniques of weaving, embroidery and stitching. This legacy is the common heritage of both present-day West Bengal and Bangladesh where these traditional methods of curating beautiful weaves exist in curious harmony with the modern-day synonymity of the 'fashionable' with the western-wear.
&
S T Y L E
No
image
of
Bengali
women
is
complete
without the six-yards of elegance that defines
saree.
Bengali
techniques authentic saris
spell
A
host
practised motifs
on
and
unique
of
pure
cotton
drapes
charm,
traditional
of
and
the
silk,
Bengali
sensuousness
and
allure at the same time.
Dhakai
Jamdani
emeralds) flowers
-
patterns
weaved
(thousand of
delicate
through
gold
and
saree
with
silver threads.
Korial and Garad
white
bright red border.
Baluchari
SareesÂ
fine
silk,
gold
embroidery and mythology.
Tant Sarees
extremely
lightweight
with paisley & flower motifs.
W O M E N ' S C L O T H I N G
Tussar Silk Sarees Muslin Cotton soft they
are
patterns, they
adorned and
look
elegant.
if
paste
colour,
with
delicate
properly
starched,
incredibly
classy
and
The
traditional
Bengal
is
a
equivalent paired
up
of
be
in
men
which
is
north-Indian
dhoti-
a
cotton
either
to
for
Panjabi',
with
loincloth can
'
attire
or
short
knees.
or
What
the
kurta,
a
silk.
in
plain
Panjabis
long
ending
distinguishes
Panjabis from the usual kurta is the authentic range or
Bengali
from
shades
honey
silk,
are
that
Garad of
the
can
cotton-silk
embroidered
around
buttonholes. the
tussar
muga-silk
kantha
fabric
with
neckline
or
silk
in
beige,
kurtas
cream
traditional
and
wedding
attire for Bengali men. These days, Panjabi is also paired with jeans or trousers in a unique fusion to blend traditional
with
the
comfortable
modern.
M E N ' S
C L O T H I N G
B E N G A L I Bangla mostly
music linked
immense
related
ancient
to
most
to
some
gods
and
Modernization occurred most
at
of
times
prayer.
influence
mythology,
the
in
Due
sort
Hindu
of
are
praise
of
creation.
Bangla
different these
the
songs
their
of
to
of
folk
was
music
times
and
modernization
processes happened independently of of
western these
influence.
changes
Rabindranath Laureate
Nazrul
were
Tagore
poet
variations
of
who
classical
Islam
(who
complicated
musical
and
of
with
fusion
Most
electronic
Western work.
notable
works (a
of
Nobel
introduced music),
Kazi
introduced composition)
traditional instruments
music and
M U S I C
A SUBCULTURE MASHUPÂ
R E F E R E N C E S the culture trip. 2020. Remembering the Legacy of France's World War 2 Punk Culture. [ONLINE] Available at: https://theculturetrip.com/europe/france/articles/remembering-thelegacy-of-frances-world-war-2-punk-culture/. [Accessed 19 May 2020]. blogspot.com. 2020. Zazou, one of the first youth movements of resistance and protest.. [ONLINE] Available at: http://tweedlandthegentlemansclub.blogspot.com/2013/04/. [Accessed 19 May 2020]. timeline.com. 2020. Zazous: What punk culture meant in World War II France. [ONLINE] Available at: https://timeline.com/zazou-france-world-war-ii-9f26b36e0ee3. [Accessed 19 May 2020]. libcom.org. 2020. The Zazous, 1940-1945. [ONLINE] Available at: https://libcom.org/history/1940-1945-the-zazous. [Accessed 19 May 2020]. wordpress.com. 2020. Zazou Subculture-Fashion Rebels!. [ONLINE] Available at: https://kennethkellystyle.wordpress.com/2015/03/01/zazou-subculture-dangerouslysharp-coming-soon/. [Accessed 19 May 2020]. wikipedia. 2020. Zazou. [ONLINE] Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zazou. [Accessed 19 May 2020].DeleteReportWebsitebbc. 2020. Soulboys. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.bbc.co.uk/britishstylegenius/content/22248.shtml. [Accessed 20 May 2020]. mens fashion magazine. 2020. NORTHERN SOUL; AN UNCOMPROMISING FASHION SUBCULTURE. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.mensfashionmagazine.com/northern-soulan-uncompromising-fashion-subculture. [Accessed 20 May 2020]. wikipedia. 2020. soulboy. [ONLINE] Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soulboy. [Accessed 20 May 2020].DeleteReportWebsitethe guardian. 2020. Soul boy fashion: get dressed, go out, dance. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/fashion-blog/2012/sep/28/soul-boy-fashion. [Accessed 20 May 2020]. blogspot. 2020. Subcultures: Soul Boy. [ONLINE] Available at: http://felicitykmdx.blogspot.com/2010/12/subcultures-soul-boy.html. [Accessed 20 May 2020].
blogspot. 2020. English subcultures. [ONLINE] Available at: http://anchepusya.blogspot.com/2010/05/soulboys.html. [Accessed 20 May 2020]. blogspot. 2020. subcultures. [ONLINE] Available at: http://genericfashiongroupa3.blogspot.com/p/about.html. [Accessed 20 May 2020]. wikipedia. 2020. Bengalis. [ONLINE] Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bengalis. [Accessed 20 May 2020]. banglapedia. 2020. Bangali Culture. [ONLINE] Available at: http://en.banglapedia.org/index.php?title=Bangali_Culture. [Accessed 20 May 2020]. columbia.edu. 2020. Bangali Culture. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.columbia.edu/cu/bangla/Site/Bengali_Culture.html. [Accessed 20 May 2020]. holidify. 2020. West Bengal Dress - Traditional Dress of West Bengal That Are Every Collector's Pride!. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.holidify.com/pages/west-bengal-dress-143.html. [Accessed 20 May 2020]. india the destiny. 2020. Bengal Traditional Costumes. [ONLINE] Available at: https://indiathedestiny.com/india-society/costumes/bengal-traditional-costumes/. [Accessed 20 May 2020].
WEEK FOUR
CULTURAL DISCLOSURE DESIGNERS X SOULBOY
TOPMAN DESIGN SS16 INSPIRED BY THE NORTHERN SOUL
“Early fashion nodded to a classic mod style, but as the dancing got faster and the hours in the club longer, the burgeoning style tribe needed to carve its own identity”
The Northern Soul style revival is fast turning into an all-nighter: introduced to a new generation via Elaine C o n s t a n t i n e ’s fantastic 2014 film, Topman Design sealed the return of the s u b c u l t u r e ’s s t y l e c o d e s with its SS16 show. But for those among the thousands of teenagers who danced to the same beat in the north of England in the 1970s, keeping the faith has never been a question of trends.
In the heaving ballrooms and halls that hosted Northern Soul club nights in the late 60s and 70s, they were a matter of practicality. As one vest read at the Topman show on Friday, the clothes they wore were intimately connected to how they moved: y o u ’v e s i m p l y g o t t o “Danz like y o u ’r e Northern”.
idea of absorbing different cultures to create something new was one embodied by the adolescent proponents of the Northern Soul movement. The packed clubs played records from bygone eras, after all – characterised by the sped-up tempo and soulful vocals of mid-1960s Motown records, DJs would source the rarest North American vinyls and introduce them to whole new audiences in the North back home.
I O n e o f t h e U K ’s m o s t e n d u r i n g , e v o c a t i v e s t y l e s u b c u l t u r e s , N o r t h e r n S o u l i s a p r i m e e x a m p l e o f f a s h i o n a n d m u s i c ’s m u t u a l a b i l i t y n o t o n l y t o s h a p e subcultures, but to absorb vibrations of youth cultures across the world decades before internet connectivity and Pinterest boards. Ripping style codes of the past in order to start again, the clothing of Northern Soul lets us tap i n t o a n o s t a l g i a t h a t ’s m o r e a b o u t a n a t t i t u d e t h a n m e r e a p p e a r a n c e s . T h e l o o k of the clothes was a direct consequence of their function – non-stop dancing – and capture the pure, real adrenaline of adolescence. The three songs that traditionally ended every all-nighter speak to the mix of endurance and era specificity that marks Northern Soul style: “Time Will Pass You By” by Tobi L e g e n d , “ L o n g A f t e r T o n i g h t i s O v e r ” b y J i m m y R a d c l i f f e , a n d “ I ’m O n M y W a y ” by Dean Parrish.
dazed digital. 2020. How Northern Soul sparked a fashion revolution. [ONLINE] Available at:Â https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/25076/1/how -northern-soul-sparked-a-fashion-revolution. [Accessed 20 May 2020].
WEEK FIVE
UOZAZ
BRAIN STORM SWINGING JAZZ
CLUBBING
BEPOP
PARIS
GARISH FASHION
REBELLION & EXPRESSION
YOUTH
DANCE
ZOOT SUIT
CONCEPT
CONCEPT NOTE
"REVIVAL" REVIVAL is a classic amalgamation of dance, youth, rebellion and expression. Taking inspiration from the bright suits and personalities of the Zazou subculture, we have been able to create a perfect blend of art and individuality for the modern man, reviving the old-school vibe with a modern touch.
TNEILC
SKETCHES
RANGE-FRONT
RANGE-BACK