Bag Collection for Nappa Dori by Mehak Sharma

diploma project Bag Collection for Nappa Dori Sponsor : Nappa Dori pvt. ltd. , New Delhi

Volume : 1 student : MEHAK sharma programme : Post-Graduate Diploma Programme

guide : shimul mehta vyas

2014 textile design faculty (LIFESTYLE ACCESSORY DESIGN)

National Institute of Design Ahmedabad

The Evaluation Jury recommends MEHAK SHARMA for the

Diploma of the National Institute of Design TEXTILE DESIGN (LIFESTYLE ACCESSORY DESIGN)

herewith, for the project titled "Bag collection for Nappa Dori" on fulfilling the further requirements by

Chairman Members :

*Subsequent remarks regarding fulfilling the requirements :

Registrar(Academics)

Inspired by History Designed for Today

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Originality Statement I hereby declare that this submission is my own work and it contains no full or substantial copy of previously published material, or it does not even contain substantial proportions of material which have been accepted for the award of any other degree or diploma of any other educational institution, except where due acknowledgment is made in this diploma project. Moreover I also declare that none of the concepts are borrowed or copied without due acknowledgment. I further declare that the intellectual content of this Diploma Project is the product of my own work, except to the extent that assistance from others in the project’s design and conception or in style, presentation and linguistic expression is acknowledged. This diploma project (or part of it) was not and will not be submitted as assessed work in any other academic course.

Copyright Statement I hereby grant the National Institute of Design the right to archive and to make available my diploma project/thesis/dissertation in whole or in part in the Institutes’s Knowledge Management Centre in all forms of media, now or hereafter known, subject to the provisions of the Copyright Act. I have either used no substantial portions of copyright material in my document or I have obtained permission to use copyright material. Student Name in Full: Mehak Sharma Signature: Date:

National Institute of Design The National Institute of design has been acclaimed as one of the foremost multidisciplinary institutions in the field of design,education and research. The Business week USA has listed NID as one of the top 25 European and Asian programs in the world. The institute functions as an autonomous body under the department of Industrial Policy and promotion,Ministry of Commerce and Industry, Government of India. NID is recognized by the department of Scientific and Industrial research (DSIR)under Ministry of Science and technology, Government of India, as a scientific and industrial design research organization. NID has been a pioneer in Industrial design education after Bauhaus and Ulm in Germany and is known for its pursuit of design excellence to make designed in India, Made for the world a reality. NID’s graduates have made a mark in key sectors of commerce, industry and social development by taking role of catalyst and through thought leadership. PG Campus Gandhinagar is currently an extension campus of the parent institute, National institute of Design in Ahmadabad, is situated in the city of Gandhinagar, in Gujarat. As part of expansion plan, NID opened a new post graduate campus

Student Name in Full: Mehak Sharma Signature: Date:

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Images courtesy : Amit Chahaliya

Lifestyle Accessory Design Today we are surrounded and defined by the everyday things we use. These could be functional, purely aesthetic or both. Lifestyle Accessory Design complements and enhances a personâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lifestyle, right from the most basic, to high-end luxury. Lifestyle Accessory Design involves research and understanding of the way people live and their habits, to create better products, systems, spaces and accessories for them to use. Skill development modules such as Design Drawing, Material and Structure, and Geometry give an understanding of various material properties and enhance the studentsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; working andrepresentational skills. Other courses include Fashion and IndustrialDesign History, Trend Mapping and Forecasting,and Retail Management and Design. There are 6 design modules that cover the various areas of accessory design including personal accessories and space accessories. Students are encourage to undertake focused research which involves in-depth understandingof the target user. A design brief is derived from the research, ensuring user-oriented solutions.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Synopsis

The diploma project is a culmination of one’s educational journey at the National Institute of Design. This independent venture undertaken by the student in the industry by the way of a project helps to demonstrate his/her learning as a student. Nappa Dori became a platform which stands strong in its vision of a great product, beautifully crafted that speaks to the customer not just about the bag they buy, but the philosophy of all things natural and handcrafted with honest-to-goodness simplicity. Nappa Dori’s initial brief stated the need to design a collection of handbags and accessories which approximately consist of 40% of the sales generated at Nappa Dori. Talking to my guide, the possibilities of interpreting the brief differently and redefining what the client needed came about. After reaching Nappa Dori and talking to Mr.Gautam Sinha, the difference between the evident need of the company and the possibility of creating something more became obvious. To create a range of products to be positioned and packaged as a product of Nappa Dori but targeting an entire specific target group. It was important to understand the customer’s motivation for buying from Nappa Dori and their intention. I speculated the possibilities of linking my inputs using consumer psycho-graphics to define the customers buying behavior. This in turn would help build a context to the exercise and align the brands goals to the end product. While on Project I was constantly motivated to take decisions and find my own means of developing contexts. The need to ask the right questions to achieve your end objectives and to understand the role of design as a business tool became an important part of learning at Nappa Dori.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Table of Contents

1. Acknowledgments 2. Initial Project Brief

15 16

3. Project Time-line 4. Introduction

17 19

4.1. Leather and Luxury 4.2. Nappa Dori 4.3. Nappa Dori : A brief history 4.4. Nappa Dori : The brand 4.5. Understanding the Legacy -Positioning 4.6. Brand Story -Core Values

5. Target Audience 6. Advertising and Communication 7. Nappa Dori Stores 8. Initial Observations

34 36 37 39

9. Company Structure

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

10. Organizational Structure

10.1. Departments and Responsibilities

11. Nappa Dori Products

12. Product Range segmentation

13. Nappa Dori House Style

14. Nappa Dori Bag

15. Product Portfolio

16. Design Development Process

17. Nappa Dori : Processes

17.1. The making of a Nappa Dori Bag 17.2. Construction Details

19.Competition

20. Comparative Analysis

21. Learning

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

22. Research

22.1 Objective of the Research 22.2 Qualitative and Quantitative Research 22.3. Questionnaire 22.4. Research Questionnaire 1 22.5. Research Questionnaire 2 22.6. Questionnaire Abstract

23. Analysis

106

25.1. Consumer Lifestyle and product opportunity 25.2.Product Ideations

29. Developing the Collection

127

30. Nappa Dori Traveler

131

30.1. Mapping 30.2. Developing the Traveler

24.1. Defining the Nappa Dori â&#x20AC;&#x153;Classicâ&#x20AC;? customer 24.2. The new consumer profile 24.3. Conclusion

26. Trend Research

113

27. Trend Forecasting

117

27.1. What is trend forecasting 27.2. Long term forecast 27.3. Short term forecast 27.4. AW 2014 27.5. Resort 2014 27.6. SS 2015

126

28.1. Conceptualization 28.2. The Travelista 28.3. The Corporette 28.4. India Rose

24. Redefining the Consumer

25. Mappaing and Ideations

28. Design Direction

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

30.3. Bag 1. The Overnighter -Concept Development -Product Development -Suggestions 30.4. Bag 2. The backpack -Concept development -Suggestions 30.5. Bag 3. The Harness Backpack -Concept development -Product Development -Suggestions 30.6. Folding Totes -Concept Development -Product Development -Suggestions

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

31. Nappa Dori Corporate

167

My parents for keeping me grounded and patient. My Brother for calling in and checking on me daily and helping me see the larger picture and focusing when it was a hard day.

31.1. Mapping 31.2. Developing the Corporate 31.3. Ipad carrier 31.4. Sling Bag 31.5. Overnighter

32. India Rose

Acknowledgments

193

32.1. Developing the India Rose 32.2. Hand-held Clutch 32.3. Carry All

Shimul Mehta Vyas – my Guide. For encouraging me constantly to cross my own boundaries and limitations and providing me the opportunity to better myself. Amresh Panigrahi for being a phone call away and helping me see things in a practical manner. Mr. Gautam Sinha for being open to all my ideas, giving valuable feedback and for always striving to push me beyond my capability.

33. Extras

210

Dinesh Raman for being a friend, giving constant support, criticism and honest feedback.

34. Pockets Squares

214

Vinay Kumar, Hena Parveen and Swati Suman Arora for your friendship and support and endless conversations.

35. Conclusion

218

Design team at Nappa Dori – Ishaan Bharat, Pranav Guglani and Asnaa Ali Sabzposh for being enthusiastic and vocal in suggestions, feedback and constructive criticism.

36. Appendix

221

37. Bibliography

229

-Websites -Magazines

Sampling team at Nappa Dori – you helped me realize the inputs that go into constructing a bag and the fact that a sketch is just a sketch without your hard work, dedication and affection. LAD Batch 2011 – Swati kujur, Kumar Samir Saurabh, Abhimanyu Rajvanshi, Gaurav Tathode, Ankita Sharma, Jhanwee, Nazuk Keshan,Shrinivasa KN,Shreya Kasat,Yaju Koli,Ravi Anand,Sambhu Patel –for being a phone call/text away. For all your inputs and support. Anant Ahuja – you put the seeds of Nappa Dori in my head in the beginning and became my first touch point at Nappa Dori.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

2. Initial Project Brief

â&#x20AC;&#x153;To develop a new collection of leather goods and accessories primarily targeted at Nappa Dori customers that addresses their different personas based upon user researchâ&#x20AC;? 1. Project Category would be Leather Handbags, which will include work bags, casual bags, wallets and accompany ing accessories. A total of 3-4 ranges have to be developed. 2. To understand the In-house style of Nappa Dori, design products which fall in place with their look and style, keeping in mind that the end product should be in tune with the language and quality synonymous with Nappa Dori. 3. This will include research on upcoming AW 2015 trends like color pallets, trims, patterns, forms, detailing, shapes and styling. 4. Study of International and Indian markets. This will be to look at overall design language of brands, brand identities, price points and unique selling points. And also to get an overview of the International and Indian accessory market.

Project Time-line 2 week (25th December 2013 -7th January 2014) 2 weeks (8th January 2014 - 21st January 2014)

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Research on Nappa Dori history,product details,best sellers,house style

2 weeks (22nd January 2014 - 7th February 2014)

Consumer research,Interviews

1 week (8th February 2014 - 16th February 2014)

Validating insights,analysis of data

2 weeks (16th February 2014 - 2nd March 2014)

Defining context,design directions,initial ideations, feedback and starting concepts

4 weeks (2nd March 2014- 2nd April 2014)

Creating Visual boards,sketches,sampling

1 week (3rd April 2014 - 10th April 2014)

Finalizing designs ,sponsor feedback

5 weeks (11th April 2014 - 17th May 2014)

Introduction to all the departments and familiarization with techniques

Prototyping/sampling,feedback,changes, spec sheets

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Introduction

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Leather and Luxury Leather and luxury go hand in hand. Leather has a certain quality that sets it apart from the other materials that are used as mediums to express luxury. Leather as a material has a warmth that it imparts. The luxurious smoothness it conveys can hardly be replicated by any other material. The visual effect of effortless richness and durability can only and only be provided by leather and the fact that only leather can provide sturdiness that grows in character after years and years of usage.

Brands like Gucci,Chanel,Hermes have a long association with Leather due to it sensuous nature and durable character... a myriad of new luxury brands are openeing its arms to the the warmth of leather. Traditionally too, leather is seen as a symbol of a great relationship. Often, third anniversary is marked by gifting a gift of leather. Leather has come to symbolize a frequent synonym for Luxury,to symbolize strength,as valuable souvenir,a promise of durability and beauty that only gets better with age.

Leather has been used in rugged occupations since time immemorial - the enduring image of a cowboy in leather chaps gave way to the leather jacketed and leather helmeted aviator. When motorcycles were invented,the riders took to wearing heavy leather jackets to protect from road rash and wind blast. Luxury Automotive brands like Mercedes- Benz,BMW and Audi have often indulged in the usage of leather in the interiors of cars.

Leather and Luxury In India,while the Indigenous leather traditions have been meeting the local needs and supplying curios of interest to the world at large, it is the large scale leather and leather goods manufacturing industries that have created the road maps to the burgeoning Indian leather market.

The typical luxury brand consumer is in the 25-34 age brackets, usually an industrialist.

Huge Export oriented setups, local brands and mass manufacturers have opened up new avenues for the consumption of eager Indians.

Consumers of Luxury are located across the nation, be it from the sultry southern end to the Peak filled north India, from the exotic east to the global west India.

The young and rich Indians particularly working women with a wider rise in disposable income are expected to boost the luxury leather goods and accessories market. The most evident to benefit are the accessible luxury and the â&#x20AC;&#x153;value for moneyâ&#x20AC;?sector.

As compared to markets like the U.S.,Japan,Germany and even China,the size of the Indian luxury market is small but the growth potential is tremendous.

The Indian consumer wants to get the best before others, demands value for money through tough negotiations and is looking forward for recognition and respect.

Apart from Industrialists, the big spenders include professionals, self employed and top guns working for leading corporates.

The number of the high net worth individuals is increasing and the tendency to opt for global brands increases as more Indians travel abroad.

No stranger to India, luxury is all set for an unprecedented flourish here as the Indian consumer has overcome the guilt pangs associated for ages with Indulgence.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Introduction

Nappa Dori is a tribute to quintessential Indian sensibilities, blended perfectly with contemporary interpretations in design, material and craftsmanship. The Indian love story being a global one, aspires everyone to the nostalgia, mysticism and romance of the historic landmarks, vibrant culture, landscape and an endless collection of eclectic modern icons. The Nappa Dori name is firmly rooted in Indian origins and literally translated means 'leather and thread'. Nappa Dori offers a unique mix of design and craftsmanship as it celebrates an era when every journey was glamorous and travels ventured to unfamiliar frontiers to discover both themselves, as well as new places. Every handcrafted piece of Nappa Dori accessories or luggage is an expression of fine individuality. Embellishments adorn materials in subtle sophistication, carefully balanced to make a distinct statement that whispers elegance.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Nappa Dori: A brief History Nappa Dori was a one- man epiphany of Mr. Gautam Sinha, a graduate of NIFT Delhi, a fashion designer by profession. Mr. Sinha always had the interest to create and explore new material that he hadn’t learnt as a fashion designer. Thus began the journey of Nappa Dori – from a small makeshift workshop to a steadily noticeable name in the luxury leather segments. Before Nappa Dori was born in 2010, Mr. Sinha had ventured into the luxurious world of leather almost ten years earlier in 2002 when he got a request by an acquaintance to design a batch of designer leather belts for an International Brand. Taking up the request he set out to discover this versatile material. After the successful completion of the small project to make belts, his interest got quipped to using leather for more products. The outcome of the project was favorable and the demand of the belts increased, he further went into studying leather. He began studying and researching on the leather scenario in India and Abroad. 26

It was good to see that the Indian audience did find an affinity to the brand and many of them became hardcore Nappa Dori loyalist. Nappa Dori community grew primarily through word of mouth and the company encouraged this as a feeling of belonging, of being a Nappa Dori customer. Today Nappa Dori has come to a stage where people recognize it for what it is.

Armed with the knowledge he began to shape his ideas and plans keeping in mind that India has a comparative advantage in the leather sector on account of abundance of raw material, easy availability of skilled crafts persons and availability of trained manpower, however there existed, an acute deficit of good quality finished leather products.

When we look through the pages of any fashion magazine and we can easily identify the deal with accessories. It’s really simple. You can change your clothes every day, but your Bags, they need to speak the language of your personality consistently.

Having understood this aspect of the industry where there is not only a high demand but also a need for quality and finish in areas of design,Mr. Sinha focused on efforts to be made towards globalization and bridging the gap between what we call a traditional practice and the high society which adorns it. Nappa Dori started as a one man hobby, slowly evolving into a company under the name of Definite Design and then eventually metamorphosing into the signature Nappa Dori brand, which is characterized by the clean and classic opulence. Gautam Started his leather venture earlier under the company name of Definite Design in 2005 and offered a wide portfolio of home, office, lifestyle, accessories and promotional items. Based in New Delhi, the company had a dedicated team of craftsmen who provide customized solutions for any need. Renowned for discerning design skills, high quality in production, and innovative ideas, the company exports its products to clients in Denmark, Norway, UAE and USA.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Nappa Dori in India is positioned in the “Affordable Luxury” segment. It targets the well traveled, discerning and evolved audience that seeks something exclusively and not something available in mass.

When Nappa Dori started off, the whole objective was to establish brand salience. The initial focus was to set up stores at tourist places primarily to see how the Indian audience would take to the brand because Nappa Dori was significantly higher priced than most leather goods available in the domestic market.

Now Nappa Dori has its presence in UAE, Australia, Singapore – Benares, Canada – Holt Renfrew, USA- Little Market. In India Nappa Dori Stocks at New Delhi – Second Floor Studio, Ogaan – Khan Market, Mumbai – Bungalow 8, Le Mill, Bandra 190. Nappa Dori is represented in the most exclusive space in the best departmental stores and independent retailers. Nappa Dori is sold as an up market brand, never as an inexpensive brand or in discount stores.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Nappa Dori: The Brand Nappa Dori is a brand with tremendous brand recall and equity, built patiently over the Years. Nappa Dori products are designed with the core objective of offering International, contemporary and fashionable products of high quality. Nappa Dori sells as an up market brand, never as an inexpensive brand or in discount stores. It is an “Image” brand or a “Cult” brand . The Brand reflects a culture of innovation, globalization and hard work. It is a hardworking person’s accessory – a work oriented brand. It’s not a party brand or a street brand and certainly not an overtly glamorous one. It’s a brand with a strong language that spells class and elegance. The design and manufacturing process ensures that it keeps this image and look in mind. Therefore it’s a niche brand. Nappa Dori has an International Language but strictly Indian roots – An International brand with Indian Passion.

Nappa Dori has been in existence from 2010 but in practicality the seeds of the idea have been planted since 2001. It has established itself as a prominent name in the domestic market and also ventured into the international market. Nappa Dori started as a one man epiphany. It has expanded into a fast growing brand whose presence is beginning to be felt in the most up market and best stores worldwide. Nappa Dori retails as an up market brand, never as an inexpensive brand or in discount stores. In India, currently Nappa Dori has two exclusive stores in Delhi and partnership retail outlets in all metropolitan cities.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Understanding the the Brand Legacy Understanding Legacy

Brand Philosophy Celebrating the Indian Spirit Nappa Dori is a tribute to the rich tapestry of Indian culture,Archi tecture, urban icons, regional art, the raj period,Everything that per sonifies the visual world of India.

Empowering Indian craftsmanship Reviving traditional methods to work with leather and creating a resurgence in Indian craftsmanship, however focusing on creating distinctly designed objects de luxe.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Re-defining Indian luxury A refreshing new perspective on applied design meeting conte mporary lifestyles. Fashion is a frame of mind and embraces so much more than one’s body.

“The Legacy of Beautifully Hand Crafted Genuine Leather Products”

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Nappa Dori slowly started to incorporate designers from top Design schools in India such as NID Ahmadabad, Ahmedabad, Gandhinagar, Srishti school of art and other prestigious schools.

Brand Positioning Affordable luxury Nappa Dori is positioned in the affordable luxury segment. It tar gets well traveled, discerning and evolved audience that seek some thing exclusive.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Price Points Price points between luxury and premium USD 200 - USD 800. Luxury through design leadership and exclusive ambiance.

Re-defining Luxury Design with a concept and usage of quality materials has pushed Nappa Dori into the league of fastest growing luxury brands in India.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Brand Story Nappa Dori has built its reputation around the sensuous naturalness of its leather and its beautifully handcrafted bags. Nappa Dori’s passion has made it an emerging leader in the field of leather, a timeless elegance that is rooted in the quality of the product and innovation of its designs.

Core Values

“The brand values are always consistent and provide Nappa Dori a unique identity and great customer loyalty.”

Nappa Dori’s core values of Innovation and Craftsmanship are everpresent in every Product 32

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Natural Nappa Dori sees a great value in natural and classic beauty. The soft, sensuous leather and classic shapes speak of the highest quality of natural materials. Nappa Dori does not cover its leathers with layers of pigment and paint. Nor do they use cheap and low quality hardware that does not age well.

Innovation Nappa Dori products are unique. The multicultural design language culminates and meets in such a manner those appeals to every sensibility. True to its values, Nappa Dori constantly innovates to stay in touch with the continuously fast moving changes in the lifestyle of its customer.

Craftsmanship Every Nappa Dori product is uniquely handcrafted. There is no mass manufacture at Nappa Dori. The great traditional skills of the craftsmen are encouraged to be perfected over the years. The Harness range at Nappa Dori is fully handmade, designed and worked upon by the traditional craftsmanship utilizing the genuine traditional leather crafting tools.

Ecological Nappa Dori believes in the highest ecological values. Almost next to zero wastage of leather happens. The leftover leather is used to make trim and cuttings for various other product range parts. Nappa Dori has special product range which is obtained from leather “Katran” or wastage.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Target Audience The next step was to move into defining the customer. A lot of research was done on understanding what was the positioning it wanted to place itself in the market and what kind of customers were they targeting, their lifestyles and the trends in the market. Nappa Dori slowly saw an increase in the rise of more professionally oriented customer coming in. A lot of women professionals especially preferred the streamlined and classically rich look. Prints were popular as well,as they spoke of the Indian tale of which Nappa Dori is exclusively associated with. Imagery of bikes and cars and different cities became a major hit with NRI community and people looking for a pop of color. The more subtle and classic color palette and unisex styling got an overwhelming response from the corporate sections. The rising breed of future CEO’s and CFO’s. An understated look of luxury that highlighted their larger disposable incomes and impeccable style. A natural decision was to maintain to stick to its classic natural appeal but with added utility and function.

Nappa Dori has become a bigger name in the market with its simple yet classic look for the upwardly mobile community. It mapped carefully the dual role that Nappa Dori customer plays in their daily lives. It introduced various bags for the same individual who goes to office in the daytime and goes for shopping in the evening and prefers to go out in the evenings.

“ The Nappa Dori buyer is successful, upwardly mobile, young-at heart with a strong sense of independence. “ The Nappa Dori Consumer is likely to be: Between 26-45 years old. Belongs to a high income household. Travels Frequently. Effortlessly stylish, never gaudy. Has a strong commitment towards quality products which last long.

It has introduced the usage of Harness Leather for making beautifully uncomplicated and strong bags. These unisex bags have become a top favorite with the Nappa Dori Customer. Nappa Dori has carefully categorized the usage and functions of its bags e.g.. A whole range of Laptop bags was introduced in various cuts and sizes, keeping in mind the accessibility to other objects like Chargers etc too. Nappa Dori has a prominent range of Men’s bags and accessories too. Though they aren’t conspicuously masculine – the silhouettes and forms resonate this. Nappa Dori has introduced more product variety than just normal briefcases.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Nappa Dori has frequent features in top lifestyle and fashion magazines

Early Nappa Dori advertisements focused on the brands Image as a utilitarian International brand

Advertising and Communication Initial Ads: The first ad campaigns that were launched to spread the brand around were mainly product based. Nappa Dori, taking queue from its brand image never chooses to publish in mainstream magazines, instead it supports the rising scene in wholly India based creative publications like Motherland and Homegrown on a regular basis. The Nappa Dori campaigns are always used effectively to focus upon their products and stick to be theme of being traditional with an international twist. Initially it was crucial for the brand to get into the heads of the consumers. The Nappa Dori campaigns have always focused upon the basic shapes and structures of the bags as the central element. They are the Models rather than the subject carrying it, with a hint of the traditional India gracing the picturesque settings. The main aim was to connect and engage the customer subliminally to the product visually in front of them and relating them to the language and feel of Nappa Dori rather than give out a pre-conceived idea to them.

The early collections were all simple with the basic shapes and minimum trims and hardware. Only colors such as black, tan, browns were used. Public Relations As a recognized upcoming leader in the accessories field, Nappa Dori is extensively written about and its products are consistently found in the fashion and trends section of fashion/lifestyle magazines across the world. Brand Communication Nappa Dori focuses on fashion and lifestyle media for their communication in India. One can find Nappa Dori in magazines like GQ, ELLE, Vogue, Cosmo, Motherland and newspaper supplements like Mumbai Mirror, Delhi Times etc.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Nappa Dori Stores Nappa Dori has three stores in New Delhi. Each Nappa Dori store store reflects the Nappa Dori spirit. Each Store is custom designed and reflect the individual crafted nature of the product. The products are displayed so as to highlight the Nappa Dori spirit and classic touch. The soft gold gleam of the hardware,the supple leather calls to be touched, the bright candied hues of the Napa Dori trunks - all are juxtaposed together to spell out the Nappa Dori style. The wooden flooring , lighting, leather handles all reinforce the high quality that Nappa Dori is known for. The overall ambience is always one of exclusivity and understated luxury.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Initial Observations After observing the important aspects of Nappa Dori like the brand’s history, their philosophy ,Nappa Dori’s key consumer segment and the brands segmentation of Products in the initial phase - the next step was to start focusing upon understanding the product language of Nappa Dori.

After studying the Nappa Dori range at the stores, and the Nappa Dori studio it became evident that Nappa Dori has an inherent sense of form and style that makes it stand out from rest of the brands.

Genuine leather speaks of time less sophistication be it leather bags or metal trunks with highlights in leather, the lanuage is very well defined. Rich hues of browns and tans gave the brand a seasoned look.

My initial observations were that Nappa Dori has a very “classic” design language. The brand language and product lanuage go hand in hand to highlight the fact that Nappa Dori is evergreen and one of understated elegance.

It was important to understand and put a finger on Nappa Dori’s quiet classism to be able to identify theneeds of my project with Nappa Dori. I began to delve further and understand the systems that defined Nappa Dori like manufacturing,design and setup so as to gain basic knowledge and move on further in the correct direction for my project.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Company Structure Nappa Dori has the facility of an in house production unit and factory. All material like leather hides and skins, hardware, lining and cloth requirements are fulfilled by exclusive Nappa Dori Vendors. After the materials are sourced, production happens in Nappa Dori factory. Post production, the products are sent for distribution and retail.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Departments and Responsibilities Organizational Structure The organizational structure followed at Nappa Dori is centralized i.e. decision making flows from top down. After most essential decisions are made, the various departments make decisions at their own individual levels. The company is organized into different departments. Mr.Gautam Sinha looks after the exports directly. He interacts with the international customers and buyers for obtaining feedback, following up on International orders and sometimes domestic orders and maintaining a close relationship with important clients. In addition he is involved in the designing process and the design department reports to him directly. The head of marketing is responsible for domestic sales and retail operations. The head of supply chain and HR is responsible for material management, purchases and stores. The communication head looks after the accounts, commercial and associated activities.

Design

Media +Comm -Sampling -Ideations -Brain storming -Trend Forecast

The merchandising head is responsible for retail design and other merchandising functions. In addition he is also responsible for interacting with customers.

-Graphic Design -Visual Communication -Advertising

The production is organized in different teams for different production lines. Supervisors and team leaders of different sections report to the Manager. Nappa Dori right now has one manufacturing facility situated in Sultanpur, New Delhi. The manufacturing facility manufactures the products which are meant for exports and as well as domestic usage. Bags, wallets, belts and trunks have different manufacturing sections in the factory. For manufacturing of the leather products there are two major raw materials required, that is leather hides and skins and brass hardware. To provide constant quality control, Nappa Dori has reserved its vendors to ensure the best products. The aluminium sheets and hardware used in the trunks is procured similarly.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Sales

Supply chain

-Boutique -Retail + Partner Outlet -Consignment -Distributors

-Tannery -Materiual Management -Warehouse Logistics

-Stock Allocating -Sourcing -Post Production checking

Production

President

-Finance -Accounts -Costing

CFO

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

After aa basic introduction to the company structure, I was intimated about the product categorisation that that is followed After abasic basic introduction the company structure,next step was to understand product categorisation is After introduction toto the company structure,I at Nappa Product at Nappa Dori.Product categorization important to track sales andand to keep the the system streamlined. atfollowed Nappa Dori. Dori.Product categorization is importantisto a company to track sales it keeps system streamlined. into

successful, itgoes category. Newdesigns designskeep keepcoming comingin andold oldones onesare arereplaced. replaced. If If style becomes successful,it goes to the core category.New designs keep coming in and old ones are replaced. If aaa style style becomes becomes successful,it successful,it goes to to the the core core category.New category.New designs keep coming ininand and old ones are replaced. updated. Modifications and value additions are added depending upon the need of the hour. Products are regularly updated.Modifications and value additions are added depending upon the need of the Products hour. Products are are regularly regularly updated.Modifications updated.Modifications and value additions are added depending upon the need of the hour. retail outlet. It is also Feedback outlet.It is Feedback on design changes is gathered from the customers when they purchase from the retail outlet.It is also deFeedback on on design design changes changes is is gathered gathered from from the the customers customers when when they they purchase purchase from from the the retail retail outlet.It is also also dededependent on most sold and least sold designs. pendent on the most sold and least sold designs. pendent pendent on on the the most most sold sold and and least least sold designs.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Nappa Dori House Style I felt in order to understand the brands inherent style it is important to analyze the products, what sells and what does not, how much of a classic base item or how much fashion?

the year - especially smaller products and products from the basic category were very popular and during the festive season steered more towards the colorful product ranges.

What is Nappa Dori in the minds of the end consumer, what are the factors that influence their buying behavior and power? What does the consumer like? Are the products reaching the intended consumer? How are trends affecting the consumerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s choice?

Best sellers/Core Collection

I started this process by understanding the customers psyche at the Nappa Dori stores. After spending a week at the Nappa Dori store during the season of Christmas I began observing what were the items that sold most and why.

USP : Simple, Classic, Evergreen, Funtional, Genuine Leather Price Range : 85 USD - 750 USD

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

I observed that while the printed collection tends to be fashionable and trends compatible, the utility based products such as IPad sleeves move away ever so slightly from the core house style by changing elements and faces while keeping the focus on functionality. The consumer had a knack for picking up Nappa Dori products which were evergreen classics mostly round

Based upon observation and analysis,the best sellers / core styles are based on the following criteria: Both old and new collections are analyzed.The products should reach a sell through of 80% of the total quantity produced in numbers. What colors,shapes and sizes sell? What are the best price points? What does a consumer look for when buying a NappaDori Product? What sells slow and why? So what is this simple sophistication that Nappa Dori talks of? Is it just clean and minimal forms, a different form of presentation? Nappa Dori drew my attention at its evergreen, understated yet overt luxury.Luxury is the quality of being uncomplicated and having a natural ease at being.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Product Portfolio

The Nappa Dori Bag

Construction Simplified/compact Slim gussets Simple carry mechanisms

Product look Clean and simple Evergreen and contemporary Natural Everyday/ all day Understated and refined

Nappa Dori has 60 product styles across 5 key Categories,namely :

Bags :

16 variations in different styles and shapes.

Trunks : 8 variations in sizes and styles. Product traits Modern,clean lines Classic shapes International styling Natural richness of material Handcrafted

Accessories : 20 variations of products under this category. Home Accents : 4 variations of products under the category of Home Accents.Nappa Dori also does custom furniture on order basis too.

Product value Practical Organized Spacious Basic shapes

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Product details Hand stitched Focus on one element

Miscellaneous : 10 variations of products and styles under this category In the following pages,a basic and quick analysis of the best sellers at Nappa Dori has been done to get insights into the various features of products to guide my Project further.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Bags

Best Sellers

Bags

Laptop Bags

Handcrafted in genuine leather and digitally printed padded cotton canvas. Staple of Nappa Dori, most sold item due to its spaciousness and comfortable shoulder straps.

Cassidy Jhola

Handcrafted in genuine leather these shoulder bags are spacious and popular totes with signature Nappa Dori prints and leather trims.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Best Sellers

Postman Bag

Handcrafted in genuine leather and digitally printed cotton canvas, these shoulder bags are carefully designed with antique finish hardware and beige cotton twill lining on the inside. Exclusive to the mens briefcase/bags category.

Harness Bags

Handcrafted entirely in genuine harness leather with contrasting buckled straps. Accompanied with a double shoulder strap to carry as a backpack and a sling strap for easy usage. Unisex by design.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Satchel bags made from handwoven ikat fabric and vegetable dyed genuine leather,the sling bags are favored by the younger consumer group because of its contemporary and easy yellowcasual twill shape. lining.The slings are prticularly going

favoured by the fashion consious and younger consumer.

A staple for the travellers wardrobe, with a sturdy frame and spacious interiors.Perfect for traveling in style.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Basic casual open tote bags designed in heavy cotton canvas and harness leather trims.Spacious and sturdy, a staple in every wardrobe.

trims,these are the fastest selling in the basics category as they are a staple in every wardrobe.

Designed as a soft top briefcase,handcrafted in genuine leather.Exclusive to menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s category. Designed to keep your things safe.

These are favoured exclusively by the corporate and the mens category.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

These are most favoured for decor and travel purposes.Handcrafted in sheet metal and powder coated in bright colors and leather trims,the trunks are the USP of Nappa Dori

Witton Bag

Classic overnighters,padded cotton canvas, these are favoured for travel as they are light weight and spacious.With dual zips on either side to fasten the bags securly.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Handcrafted in sheet metal and powder coated in bright colors,these are the most popular and trademark Nappa Dori products. The dean backpack is popular because it can be used as a functional briefcase and sling backpack

Handcrafted in sheet metal and powder coated in bright colors,these are the most popular and trademark Nappa Dori products. The vanity case is a staple in womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s boudoir

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Made from genuine leather and digitally printed cotton canvas,tech cases are the quickest selling items all year round.Made to fit Macbook 13â&#x20AC;? and 15â&#x20AC;?

Handcrafted in bright patent leather,a fun and colorful home decor product.Completely water resistant.

Vintage Sling Umbrella Designed in Black and beige water resistant fabric,with a wooden handle,these are fast selling due to its functionality and simple yet sophisticated look which appeals to consumers of all age groups.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Handcrafted in sheet metal and powder coated in various colors.Lined with water resistant veneer with leather trims and handles.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Design Development Process The design process that I followed at the initial stages can be termed as “Intuitive” – understanding and close interaction with typical customers enabled me to design the products differently to reflect the personalities of the Nappa Dori customer. Nappa Dori currently does not follow the process of releasing collections by seasons. Since the company interface and production allows quicker manufacturing, Nappa Dori works six to eight months in advance so that the bags are sampled and produced in time. A collection or theme is launched, each collection comprises of two to eight styles of bags. The process that I followed at Nappa Dori was : 1. One on One interaction with the customer at Nappa Dori stores. 2. Analysis of sales figures from previous season. 3. Understanding the key elements by trend re search,websites and magazines. 4. Inputs from trade shows/Customer feedback. 5. Mood boards and keywords. 6. Sketches/Rough Concepts 7. Discussion 58

8. Sampling 9. Discussion with the design team 10. Final product generation The design briefing was divided into qualitative and quantitative parts. Qualitatively the briefing is prepared from data that is collected after an analysis of figures of the last season. The briefing lists down the essentials that are definitely needed to be launched into the market and the exceptions that are not required by the market. The briefing also provides the comments and the key learning from the last season that has just been sold in the market. These comments are about the general performance of the last season, what sells best and what doesn’t. The briefing also discusses the consumer’s attitude in respect to the coming season. It discusses the kind of products required for the season.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Design Development Process Analysis of Sales from last season

Quantitatively the briefing provides information concerning the number of styles per division and per product, classes and fashion grade.

Analysis of Key Trends forcast,Trade Fairs

For understanding the key elements of the season the design team collects information from web sites such as WGSN which is a worldwide used trend forecast web site, international trend magazines and does regular market survey to study the new trends and what people want from Nappa Dori.

Ideations and Discussion

Sampling and Feedback

Costing and Feedback

Collection

Mr. Sinha and the design team make visits to important trade fairs and collect required information for new trends. Hardware, leather and new material, surfaces and color libraries are updated for the upcoming collections and themes. All this information is formatted to build upon the next collection. Key elements are discussed with the design team. A mood board is made with supporting visuals and keywords. These are first discussed and approved by Mr Gautam Sinha. He gives his feedback and approval for the desired elements and other details and components like new hardware, change of style/silhouette are added.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Design Development Process

Design Development Process A silhouette is first made to support the concept. Then concept sketches are done till the feel of the range is achieved. Many concept sketches later, at first, one bag is madeâ&#x20AC;Śit could be an evening bag, work bag or any other genre. Then the sketch is made to scale so that it turns out to be a perfect shape and size. Many alterations are made on the same sketch to check which one will be perfect. After the conclusion is made, the next step is to make a prototype. Nappa Dori does not make prototypes in paper; they make prototypes in rubber sheet as it is more closer to the weight, fall and dimensions of the Bags. The next step is to choose the correct leather types as per as the styling of the bag and style. 60

For example, if the leather needs to be of a certain thickness, the edges need to be raw or turned-in. The leather suitability is checked, whether it needs to be a well grained leather or smooth finish depending upon the construction and style of the design. Another thing to keep in mind is the final cost of the bag when it comes into production. The sample accordingly has to fit according to size and shape. The next step is to get the pattern cut and start sampling. First sampling of new designs tends to take a lot of time since there is scope for mistakes to be made since itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the first sample. Likewise one sample for each concept is made. After these samples are made they are then presented to Mr. Sinha;

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

he has the discretion to approve or disapprove any of the designs. Accordingly selected samples will be worked with the changes suggested by all. The next step is to make the changes and work to make a collection. A Range consists of 2-4 bags. Usually the Nappa Dori custom is to make any of the following: 1. Sling Bag 2. Shoulder Bag 3. Laptop 4. Overnighter 5. Tech Cases

One has the freedom to add new genres too. All the bags in the range are generally expected to be differently sized and with different usages. There should be no clash or competition for bags in the same range or collection because then that would mean the death of that bag in the eyes of the customer in the shop. After the collection with the different ranges has been made the next step is to make costing and making factory samples. After all these factors are decided, the quantities of initial production are decided. The quantities are limited and depending upon their performance in the stores and internationally bigger orders are made. International buyers place orders on the production. based on a close follow up with the retailers and active collection of feedback from customers, appropriate changes will be made wherever required.

The Initial brainstorming Sketches and Concepts are pinned up on the workstation and ideas are generated and discussed with the design team.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

The making of a Nappa Dori bag Leather Checking The leather section of Nappa Dori is out of careful selection and grading of hides. They are various kinds of hides available,but Nappa Dori chooses to utilize Full Grain hide i.e. no correction of the grain to conceal the poor quality of leather. Before the starting of the bag, a thorough check is made at the factory to confirm:

Nappa Dori : Processes

sales order. These leather requirements are calculated on the basis of bill of material prepared by the production head. The processed leather is dispatched from the tannery for production. The stores verify the quality of leather and return the rejected leather to tannery.

1. Correct Color 2. Grain and Structure of the leather â&#x20AC;&#x201C; smooth and flat for Casual Bags and natural grain for the classic products that require a formal look. 3. Softness â&#x20AC;&#x201C; The leathers are checked to ensure that the classic leather has sufficient body for a briefcase to be firm. Casual leather is checked for its softness without cracking and stretch marks. Tanneries procure the wet blue from the market and classify it article wise. Based on the leather requirement given by the factory,they issue the wet blue for various uses depending upon leather quality required for the

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

The wet blue leather is procured from the tanneries and is classified article requirement wise.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

The making of a Nappa Dori bag Leather Sorting

Combinations and Design

Nappa Dori uses leather that does not have a pigment covering them. Since each hide is unique and absorbs oils, waxes and dyes slightly differently from others. The sorter needs to be experienced and skilled to match by grain and color into batches that are cut separately.

Nappa Dori uses a lot different color combinations for the small product category. For this the production head and the product design head decide which different color combinations need to be incorporated in the future production by first checking sales record of the items sold in each color and checking if the same color is available in the Nappa Dori store stock. After having a look at the quantities, material for the same is issued and a color combination sheet is given to the production department giving account of the number of pieces to be produced.

The making of a Nappa Dori bag Skilled input goes into the preparation cutting and Assembling of the bags before stitching. Different areas of the bag require different thicknesses and the edges need to be skiived before being able to be folded to ensure that the folded edge is no thicker than the rest of the piece.

The leather is checked for quality,color and other faults by hand at Nappa Dori

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

The batch is checked before cutting into pattern and post the cutting. Rejections are given back to the cutting section. The leather is given into the production section. Nappa Dori uses pattern cuttings for small products,in which a stainless steel mold is made as a template for the cutters to cut the pattern. Nappa Dori plans to invest in a clicker machine soon so as to make production more viable. Construction

Cutting Nappa Dori insists on hand cutting with knives as it enables the pattern cutter to make clean cuts and go around corners with great precision. It also allows the whole leather on the table and place various patterns onto it to ensure current matching between adjoining pieces before actually cutting. Inherited talents and long apprenticeships give Nappa Dori this unique strength to handle natural leathers.

The quantities are then checked as per job card. The required batch is sent for skivying after that.

The Nappa Dori Belts and Straps are cut on a belt making machine for extreme precision

A high quality bag requires great deal of preparation. The lining cloth is cut according to requirements,along with them the accessories such as zips,tags are also made. The cut lining cloth is stitched to the zips along the edges. Edge coloring is done to the tags and dried. The output of the lining section goes to the assembly section-where the final cut leather and lining pieces are stitched. Before stitching the final parts of the bag, it needs to be assembled and glued together correctly before stitching.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

The making of a Nappa Dori bag

The making of a Nappa Dori bag Assembling the Bag

Packing

The bag is first put together with glue before being stitched. This ensures the correct shape of the bag. Only after this process the bag is finally assembled.No clean cut edges are allowed, except for harness bags, all pieces are folded before stitching . The bag is checked thoroughly now to ensure good quality. Then it is sent for stitching. Nappa Dori has flat sewing machines as well as cylinder machines. The flat sewing machines are used to stitch together while assembling the bag. The cylinder is used to sew where the bags are curved.

The products are then taken to the Nappa Dori stores or stored aside if they need to go to the international market or partnership retail stores. If the product has to be packed for international market, it is first wrapped in a polybag, with silica sachets added inside to protect them from humidity etc. They are then packed into bubble wrap and packed inside their designated Nappa Dori cartons. The cartons are then placed into cargo cartons which have separate inner and outer cartons to keep the cargo safe and undamaged. Tags are pasted upon the cartons which specifies the name of the buyer,country,specs of the product,number of pieces and weight of the whole carton.

Quality and Checking Attention to details such as burning off excess thread, cleaning off glue and edge color â&#x20AC;&#x201C; takes place before a final check of each bag is done. After completion of production, the produced pieces are sent for finishing. The final packing happens in the packaging department. Here the price tags to each product are added. The packaging of the product includes another final check of the hardware, the stitching, print quality and other details. The product is then carefully sealed in a polybag.

The final stitching is done post the bags have been assembled. Nappa Dori utilizes cylinder sewing machines for stitching its Signature Laptop bags.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

The smaller finishing touches like the embossings,zipper pullers etc. are made in bulk before production,to be later used when the assembing of the production is in process

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Construction Details A great many factors need to be considered while selecting the construction of the bag, the exact use for which the finished article is intended, the market price, the kind of leather used will also depend upon the construction. On deciding the general outline and appropriate materials, it is necessary to decide the type of construction and the methods of joining various parts.

The finished appearance is the then improved by the use of harness stitching. The harness stitching has better appearance and needs to be done by hand. Nappa Dori uses this technique extensively and has created its niche in such kinds of bags. Contrast thread stitching is used in some kinds of products, otherwise similar thread is used.

There are two methods of construction common at Nappa Dori 1.Cut Edge Construction 2.Faced Edge Construction Cut Edge Construction In this method the edges are not skived or turned over but retained with the full thickness of the material and are usually polished and edge colored. This method is used in case of hard, firm and plated leather.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Construction Details Faced Edge Construction This is a construction method in which two turned over edges are placed together and machined through. This is used widely in laptop bags, postman bags. This can be adopted for any shape and style of bags, provided they are possible to do in the machining process. As a method of exterior construction it allows the bag to be subdivided into elements for mass production. For example, one craftsperson can make the gusset series, another one just the backs and other just flaps. This has the advantage of reducing cost, and the minimum of materials. All the edges of the bags carry turnover, the craftsperson can work without being extra particular which is not the case in cut edge construction, which requires years of skill and confidence to cut with utmost precision. Skiving process needs to be followed with utmost care in this case so that the overall thickness of the edges is even.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Construction Details

Making and Cutting Patterns

Skiving

Piping

Lining

Making patterns are called working patterns, consist of exterior and interior paper patterns as a substitute for blue prints. These are not three dimensional and the main purpose is to help in the production of cutting patterns and make necessary adjustments. The original patterns are stiffened in steel for working processes. They are carefully marked to show the placement of hardware, points of pleats and any other further marks to help construction. For the making patterns, a set of cutting patterns are made. Each set includes: lining patterns, padding patterns and leather patterns.

Skiving is a process for paring down the thickness of leather edges with the help of a skiving machine. This process is mostly used for turned over constructions. The skiving process needs to be done properly because if the edges are skived too thinly there is a chance of the leather weakening and causing to split and tear. Appearance of the bag depends heavily on the skiving done. Unless the seams are reasonably thick, the result would be floppy and unimpressive. The stitches could easily pull through or tear when they are machined.

Piping is used in case of hard leather constructions or whenever the design of the product demands it. At Nappa Dori, piping is done manually but encasing pipes in leather and stitching where leather overlaps.

Lining plays an important part in construction as it holds the contents of the bags and often influences the sales of bags too, as the inside of the bag should be sturdy and attractive as much as the exterior. Their colors could be contrasting or matching the outside. Nappa Dori uses cotton twill lining in beige and warm yellow. As an experiment they have just started using printed linings as a contrast to certain products that have a very simple exterior.

Padding Padding is utilized in products which require thickness and strength and are required to give a shape and design. Nappa Dori uses rubber sheets conventionally for its products, except for tech cases, which require a thick lining of foam for protection to the gadget.

There are two types of linings used in bag constructions: 1. Drop lining: the complete lining is placed inside the already made exterior. 2. Fixed lining: the lining is incorporated with exterior. Drop linings can be inserted later into the bags and stitched, fixed linings has its edges included in the exterior seams and so cannot be lifted out of the bag. Nappa Dori uses fixed linings as the design lanuage demands and unless a design construction demands a drop lining specifically, drop lining is preffered.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Brands like Hidesign, Mango, Zara, Adamis have made their marks on the Indian as well as international market. Hidesign has a huge variety of leather handbags and wallets in vegetable tanned leather.Companies like VIP , Titan are expanding their ranges in accessories in terms of handbags in faux leather.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

. .

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Comparitive Analysis Hard Graft Unique Selling Point Hard graft works with premium materials that has earned it a mass following in the genuine leather segment. Hard Graft uses only full grain leather in its products. Hard Graft is also well known to use leather with 100% wool felt. All the products have a very strong brand language. Their branding is subtle yet strong. They have a wide array of products and accessories. Their product language is simple and focuses highly on functionality.

Hard Graft uses a very earthy color palette.Their collections are theme based - Smoke (grey felt),Shore (Grey canvas) and Ocean (navy)

Product language.

Hard Graft is a brand with an ambitious worldwide outlook. Clever thoughtful and unexpected designs carefully developed and mastered. Juxtaposing new ideas with good old-fashioned skilled workmanship using rich, premium and highly resourceful materials. Accessible luxury goods that travel between traditional artisan and future aesthetics. Constantly changing and evolving but always holding on to the good.

-Minimal and Functional. -Leather + wool felt . -Uses leather that is by-product of food Industry. -Minimal Hardware in Grey/Lead. -Wide collection of Products. -Sophisticated and Understated. -Interesting play of material-. Price Range : 47USD (iMac slipper) - 1,167USD (Suitcases)

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Hard Graft

Nappa Dori

Subtle color palette

Subtle + lively

Strong product language

felt + canvas + leather

cloth + leather

genuine leather

only full grain grey/lead harware

Signature antique hardware

Signature Stitching

hand stitched products

utilitarian approach

classic approach

Hard Graft has a subtle product language that utilizes a specific stitching pattern,subtle hardware and embossing. Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Learning After learning about the essential functioning of Nappa Dori like the organizational setup and the production processes at Nappa Dori and being able to articulate what qualities distinguish Nappa Dori from the other brands that exist in the market, researching upon these brands was the next logical step.

An in depth analysis of competitors of Nappa Dori gave me clarity about the brandsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; objectives, product features, their target market. It gave me a comprehensive picture about where Nappa Dori stood as a brand - its aspirations and target markets, its unique selling points in comparison to other brands in similar market segement and it broadened my understanding what new perhaps could work for Nappa Dori.

After doing research and learning about the design process that is followed at Nappa Dori it became clear that the next logical step for information gathering would be to start consumer research and to start identifying the key points of what does the actual Nappa Dori consumer look forward to.Also mapping current and future trends would be of vital importance to transform ideas and sketches in to viable options.

Research

Exploring the manufacturing processes gave me ideas as to what products would be viable for production in the in-house manufacturing unit and gave me clarity about what the product range should be capable of and new ways and means of trying something new.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Consumer Research

Methodology In the second part of the project, I focused on the aspects of resea rch to get insights into the potential directions that the project could take.

A quick questionnaire/feedback from was developed which was handed to the customers to gain insight into the basic psychology of the buying behavior.

As I wanted to get unbiased opinions from the customers I looked at customer feedback that is available on Nappa Doriâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s website and public pages.

After being well versed with the basics like product portfolio, competition and production processes, research was the next obvious step.

Questions regarding the consumerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s reason of buying, occasion for buying, and what expectations they had in terms of new products from Nappa Dori were included.

After going through the process of one on one interactions, I collected the data and feedback and switched to taking feedback in a more objective manner.

The interaction helped me to map the basic idea of what the consumer was expecting from Nappa Dori in terms of new products, new looks.It gave me an idea of what avenues were open to me for exploring.

The following pages traces a detailed account of the process that was followed, the data collected and analysis of the data.

I began the process of research by one on one interaction with the Nappa Dori customer at the stores. This process was done over a week from January end to mid February 2014. I began by casually noting down consumer behavior and most selling products.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Objective of the Research

To study the buying behavior of the Nappa Dori Customer What are the popular items that the target customer looking for? What are the products that the Nappa Dori customer would like to see in the stores in Future What the different occasions that Nappa Dori customer is most likely to buy products To decide what avenues are open to us for exploration and give general direction to research.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Qualitative and Quantitative Research

Why do we need them ?

Qualitative Research

Quantitative Research

Qualitative research is a field of inquiry that crosscuts disciplines and subject matters. Qualitative researchers aim to gather and in depth understanding of human behavior and the reasons that govern human behavior. Qualitative research relies on reasons behind various aspects of behavior. Smaller focused samples are required rather than large random samples for our purpose of research to get a true input.

Quantitative methods are research techniques that are used to gather quantitative data- information dealing with numbers and anything that is measurable. Statistics, table and graphs are often used to present the results of these methods.

The aim is to classify features, count them in an attempt to explain what is observed. The researcher knows clearly in advance what he/she is looking for. Recommended in later phases of research, when the intent of the research is more or less clear. Aspects of study are carefully designed before data is collected. Intent: The one on one aspect of interviews based questionnaire I had to spend time to understand what it was that I was looking for. It was more important to understand the customer, their needs and buying behavior and since Nappa Doriâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s product category is ever-changing â&#x20AC;&#x201C; it would be more fruitful to understand the customers need and shape the products accordingly

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

The aim is a complete, detailed description of the intent of the research . Researcher may know roughly in advance what he/she is looking for. Recommended in earlier phase of research. Design emerges as study unfolds. Intent: The questionnaire format was quick tick in the box questions. It is good to reach out to a maximum number of people. The format is less time consuming and is agreeable as a feedback form to the consumer.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Research Questionnaire - 1 Quantitative Research For the purpose of Quantitative research a short questionnaire/feedback form was created. It was circulated in the Nappa Dori stores in the month of February - March to customers who visited the store in that time duration. The aim of the questionnaire was to map out their basic information, like : 1. Age 2. Profession 3. Their thoughts about Nappa Dori 4. Reason of Purchase,if any 5. Personal preference of products at Nappa Dori A batch of a hundred and fifty (150) samples was distributed in the stores. The questionnaire was a small pamphlet with quick tick options so as to prompt quick responses and utilize as little time as possible.The following page depicts the sample questionnaire and the questions that were included.

Name: Age: What is the Occasion for the Purchase? Birthday Wedding Congratulations Just Because Others __________________________________________

Suggestions/Comments for Nappa Dori? ______________________________________________

How often have you visited Nappa Dori? ________________________________________________ How often have you brought products from Nappa Dori? ________________________________________________ What attracts you to Nappa Dori? The brand Nappa Dori The prints The Value for money The quality of products The variety of products What are you most likely to buy from Nappa Dori collection? Laptop Bags Casual Bags Overnighters Office bags Small Accessories Home Accents

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Qualitative Research For the one on one interview….I spent some time trying to understand what it was that I was looking for. From an adjective based questionnaire, where people had the specific options like shapes, colors and visual cues…I came to the conclusion that the product category wasn’t specific and the look was understood and based on the Nappa Dori in-house style, It would be important to understand the consumer, their buying behavior and their thoughts. The interviews became 1 on 1 free flowing discussion.

Research Questionnaire - 2 Name: Bhumika Bhatia Photographer at Bhumika Bhatia Photography Age: 26, In a relationship Income: 40-50 k per month/Freelancer Professional Photographer Hi Bhumika…so you’re a professional photographer…tell me more about your routine? .....Hey,obviously it’s a busy routine….photography is a part of my life…you never know when inspiration hits you…so it’s a way of life rather than a profession….

Learning “The interviews became a good learning ground to understand and interact with the customer. Their lifestyles and habits, their notions on Nappa Dori and what they valued. I also understood the difference between asking and suggesting. I realized its easy to get data with a per-conceived notion and difficult to get facts. It is important to maintain the role of a third person i.e. of a non participant/neutral person, as often the insights and responses might get affected by the interviewers attitude and true research might not happen. Hence I’ve taken inputs from consumer feedback over Nappa Dori mails and customer service server and also Nappa Dori Public Pages.”

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

So basically photography is a lifestyle for you…. …Yes absolutely…its my life…you will always find me with my camera…randomly clicking…taking in the world around me…trying to make sense of it…seeing it from my angle…telling the whole world my point of view… What apart from photography interests you? Apart from photography…I like to read a lot…magazines..travel related books…traveling to the mountains…but mainly still photography…I love to take my camera for trips and walks! Do you get enough time away from photography for yourself? Well…working freelance means I get to spare time for myself…no office and crap…hahahhaha..But its time consuming on another level…. Do you like to shop? Hmmm…I do…clothes n all….but as a photographer I tend to spend more money on my baby (camera) than on clothes…it’s an expensive but rewarding involvement!!!!!

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

What Kind of shopping experiences do you enjoy? Online shopping vs. actual shopping? Well….i enjoy shopping online…so many discounts! but I’d rather go to a physical place to shop…well…I like my mall shopping…but I have a knack for shopping things that are unusual…special…not easily available…you know…something that sets you apart from the crowd? Which places have provided you that experience? Mostly thrift shopping in UK and abroad…I like exclusive shopping boutiques… So have you ever shopped at Nappa Dori? Oh yes! I love Nappa Dori…I’ve brought a satchel bag…ikkat I suppose…from Nappa Dori… Oh cool….so you have more stuff from Nappa Dori? Hmmmm….I have the pencil roll from Nappa Dori….nice colors …it was gifted by a friend…though I wished I’d gotten the Camera Case…it would be a dream come true!!!!! Oh wow…so how did you come across Nappa Dori? I heard about it from a friend…it does very niche stuff…very…”in”…so yeah..Heard about it from there…ive been to the store many a times…it’s in the Hip and happening part of Delhi…. So how did you pick up this bag?Special features? I like the shape of the bag…very minimal…and chic…its something that just grabs your eye…and speaks about quality…looks expensive….so it suits my evening look as well as my morning look…its an all day kinda bag…hahhahaa…im mostly in my jeans and a top anyways…so….its the “it” accessory…hahahahhaa Awesome! So would you carry a smaller wallet version of this bag? Oh yeah! I’d absolutely love to have a clutch version of this bag….cool! So any advice for Nappa Dori? I love Nappa Dori! Though I wish they would come up with newer collections sooner…it’s been long since they did…. like…like….something cool for cameras! Cool straps…backpack for cameras!!!! And equipment!!!! Oh yeah!! Like a waterproof backpack for cameras…would be super cool…like their signature prints…or ikkat….or even leather would be cool…but im sure it would be out of my budget then….ha. 90

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Interview’s Insights

Shopped at Nappa Dori 3-4 times....like their products... but now they need to do new stuff...more stationary related...and new computer covers...even mobile covers.

I travel a lot. Could be a business trip...love to travel abroad for vacations...I need space when I travel...space and good looks would be a great combination!

I love online shopping...I ordered Nappa Dori laptop bag from the website itself...It reached really fast..like 3 days with a personalized note inside it!It was a nice touch.

Akriti Sen Age : 29 Occupation : Corporate Lawyer - Airtel Marital status - In a relationship

The strap of my Nappa Dori bag broke....I had to get it changed...well...there is no hassle in that...but...the quality...

I love shopping at Mango,zara..even Michael Kors... now that it has come to India. They have a great range of professional looking bags too... and in different colors

Nappa Dori should introduce more colors...like...retain the look of the products...but add more colors...subtly...I love the trunks! Im going to buy a pair of trunks as my bedside tables Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Analysis 150 Samples of the Questionnaire were circulated in the Nappa Dori stores in the month of Jan 2014 - Feb 2014 as feedback forms, out of which we got a 70% feedback. The Age Range of the target customer was from 24 – 55 years. But we got a substantial amount of data from people below the ages of 25 years too. We have taken a breakup of customers in four age groups. These being

Analysis

1. 25 years below 2. 25-35 3. 35-45 4. 45 and above Conclusion: 25 Years 25 years below are most influenced to buy Nappa Dori products on the basis of the “Brand” recall. This segment consists mainly of student category. This segment buys a lot of accessories and small products from Nappa Dori mainly for its Branding.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

The 25- 35 The 25-35 segments lead the pack in terms of feedback. They buy mostly office related items like bags and sling bags and Log files/stationary related items. This segment also leads on buying for “Just because” category. Mostly consists of Office going and professional categories. This category vouched for maximum number of printed and new category of products that are travel and holiday related. The 35-45 This segment mainly lead in the “Thank You and Congratulations” category. This segment buy a lot Nappa Dori signature products like Trunks and Home accents. A lot of this category is a loyal customer to Nappa Dori and has a history of repetitive buying from Nappa Dori. This category also has the maximum number of suggestions for scope of addition of new products. The 45 above The above 45 category is a substantial contributor to buying products from Nappa Dori over a surprisingly varied variety of products. These include the Nappa Dori Trunks, (upon inquiry of the occasion, while researching in the Nappa Dori store it invariably pointed to trousseau related)belts and essential categories like umbrellas!

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Analysis

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Analysis

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Quantitative Research + Quantitative Research

Analysis of Data

Defining the Target Audience and their needs

Analysis + Design Direction

Post analysis of data, four age groups of consumers were identified ranging from 24 years to 47 years. Roughly the category of people from age group 35 - 45 and above consisted of people more “loyal” to Nappa Dori i.e. these segement of consumer had frequented the stores since many years as compared to the 25 -34 years. Products that related to office/tech cases and small accessories were more popular with the 25 - 34 category. They were “newcomers” or recently acquainted with Nappa Dori. This observation prompted me to categorize and redefine the consumer profile into two categories : 1. The “Classic” customer 2. The “New” customer

Trend Research

Analysis + Design Direction

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

They believe in gifting, have subtle tastes. Their buying patterns consist of more home decor and bags/cases.The are working professionals and want new products and styles from Nappa Dori. The new customer, as the name suggests, is a recent customer. They are attracted to Nappa Dori for its brand value and “tag”.They consist of young and newly working category. They are in tune with the trenda and buy lot of accessories and tech cases from Nappa Dori. They are not brand loyal yet but are enthusiatic to buy and share their Nappa Dori experience. The work hard at their respective jobs and spend their money well. This category was recorded to give feedback for maximum amount of changes/introduction of new products to the Nappa Dori portfolio.They believe in gifting, be it for their loved ones or themselves.

The Classic customer has a longer association with Nappa Dori, is more or less brand loyal, as they have shopped from Nappa Dori. They consist of the buyers from the “thank you” and “congratualtions” category.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Redefining the Consumer

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Defining the Nappa Dori “Classic” customer. Age About 30 – 45 years. Most young working professionals aspire for Nappa Dori. But for some it becomes a second skin. Work A Nappa Dori customer could be a middle – high level executive or professional and normally is work focused. Personality traits Whether single or Married , with or without a family, a Nappa Dori customer is a strong individual. Unassuming,well traveled, clear headed, distinguishing and conscious of ones decisions. She/He is not individualistic but is quiet independent and loves his/her freedom. They have a definite sense of self, is not overtly social or extrovert nor strongly conservative and prefer the “non-standard”, the “unconventional” in everyday life. Lifestyle/Preferences The Individual is primarily work and home bound, thrives on his routine,has a penchant for style which is not dictated by fashion, is comfortable in his skin. He prefers the understated and classic sense of style, simplicity over being a part of a “fad”.Understated,chic,practicality and functionality are of prime importance and values quality. 100

Social Traits The individual prefers low key celebrations, is intimate,personal,close to family and selected friends,values quality time spent with people close to him/her. Nappa Dori for the client is a brand that equals quality and trust. It is stylish,and a brand with recall and “being seen with” value. A client of Nappa Dori will always stay true to the brand for he/she believes in its values,simplicity,sober yet attractive looks.

Classic Responsible Dependable Warm Organized Aware Stable

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The New Consumer Profile

Nappa Dori is a highly Aspirational brand. Therefore there is bound to be a typical customer base also. These are the type of customers who aspire to own Nappa Dori because of its brand name and not because they necessarily believe in Nappa Dori as a philosophy like the classic customers do. These are the new budding professionals,who believe in flaunting the right brand and therefore would buy Nappa Dori. They would buy any other brand as well,which is equally high on their aspiration list. For them ,the Nappa Dori logo is mandatory and needs to be embossed prominently. Because they like others to see that they are using products from Nappa Dori. Newer designs are what they look for and just not the classic products and colors.

Age : 25-45 years,most customers between 27-35. Work :Middle to higher mid exec level,call center,IT Professionals,freelancers,Lawyers and a tiny segment of college students with higher disposable cash flows.

Ambitious Hardworking Aware Independent Confident Creative

These are also the customers who like be queued into the new released products of Nappa Dori and enthusiastic about purchasing them.

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Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Personality Traits Assertive of their choices,simplicity still rules,clear headed,aware and growing sense of individualism along with independence,freedom loving,assertive…have a definite sense of self…nor overtly social neither an introvert… balance plays a major role in their sense of self…they prefer the “non-standard” , the “unconventional” in everyday life. Lifestyle/Preferences Primarily work to home bound,creative but routine living,fashion forward but not the fashion bound,comfortable with basic,simplicity,understated,chic style,practicality and function is of prime importance,value the quality. Social Traits Low Key in celebrations,intimate,personal,close to family and selected friends,value for quality time spent. Views on Nappa Dori Equate quality with brand, money’s worth, stylish to be seen with, timeless and classic, Nappa Dori is a lasting relation…evergreen designs with a worldwide outlook, scope for new products and designs.

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Conlusion “The older customer yearns for options.” The Older Customer The ones who have been using Nappa Dori since the beginning or got introduced to it long backhabituated to buying Nappa Dori because it best fit into their lifestyle and because they haven’t found anything else that can strongly compete yet. Some have moved onto “better” and more luxurious products. They have greater expectations of Nappa Dori.

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The Current Customer The ones who’ve been with Nappa Dori for a few years,now tastes the fruit of having the purchasing power to enjoy premium products. Nappa Dori is symbiotic of a great brand which offers quality products.

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

The New Customer The younger group is drawn by the aspiration of owning Nappa Dori, a brand which symbolizes a standard, a milestone that says – you have arrived. The new customer is also the most prolific in gifting Nappa Dori. The “gift-worthiness” of Nappa Dori lies in its brand equity and attention to detail and quality.

“The current customer wants options.” “The new customer needs convincing+belief that Nappa Dori is relevant to them. They prefer to buy smaller and lesser priced item and gift Nappa Dori.” While staying true to its core styles, Nappa Dori needs to “Up” its luxury and category Quotient and the image of being current.

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Consumer Lifestyle and Product Opportunities

We started with studying the Nappa Dori consumer profile and the points at which the customer could interact with the brand through products. This process helped open up windows of opportunities.

Mapping and Ideations

While studying the Nappa Dori customer profile it became apparent that he/she is someone for whom work forms a large part of his/her identity and time through the day. The Nappa Dori customer is well traveled and requires a wide range of support accessories to facilitate basic needs. The Nappa Dori customers cherish their personal space and time- they spend it with their near and dear ones. This Helped in charting out three main areas that we could focus on: At Work – Stationary, Desktop accessories, Access to essential Technology On the Go – Travel comfort, Travel Accessories, Easy Carriage, Space efficient. At Ease – Personal Effects, Fashion Accessories

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Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Well Traveled Work is Work Classic Laid back Vacation Trend Aware Muted Sophistication Creative Spirit Grounded Aesthetics

At Work On the Go At Ease

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Nappa Dori creates a whole range of products from handbags to briefcases and over nighters as well as smalls and other leather accessories. It was important to identify a range of products that would complete the range â&#x20AC;&#x201C; whether already existing within Nappa Dori or newer ones which would have to be designed.

On the Go

We started with Mapping out the possible product Areas in terms of the customers lifestyles and their needs. Nappa Dori describes itself as an affordable luxury leather goods brand and it has focused its energy on delivering the best that leather has to offer. It was decided that we were focusing on presenting the customer with a collection of leather goods that would be fitting the different personaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s of the Nappa Dori customer.

At Work

Scenario Mapping

At Ease

While studying the customer needs we mapped out all possible products that could be made in leather and goods that would complement the collection. Since Nappa Dori exclusively orders its hardware and Fabrics, there was a possibility to add scarves and pocket squares to the handbag collection.

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Product Ideations

Product Ideations Product

Usage/Function

Product

Effect on Brand

On the Go

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Usage/Function

Effect on Brand

At Ease

over Nighter

high/essential

part of collection

Belts

moderate/essential

Brand Building

Backpack

high/essential

part of collection

Sunglasses case

moderate/essential

Brand Building

umbrella

moderate/essential

Brand building

tote Bags

high/essential

Brand building

passport cover

high/essential

Brand building

Scarves

high/essential

part of collection

i pod cover

moderate/essential

-ve

pocket squares

moderate/essential

part of collection

toiletry Bag

high/essential

Brand building

ipad covers

high/essential

Brand building

makeup Bag

moderate/essential

Brand building

clutches

moderate/essential

Brand building

camera case

moderate/essential

Brand building

handbags

moderate/essential

part of collection

tote Bag

high/essential

part of collection

jotter

moderate/essential

Brand Building

laptop Sleeve

high/essential

Brand building

Wire clips

high/essential

Brand building

multipurpose pouches

high/essential

part of collection

multipurpose pouches

high/essential

part of collection

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

On the Go

At Ease

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Product Ideations Usage/Function

Effect on Brand

At Work

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Watch Box

moderate

Brand Building

phone covers

moderate/essential

Brand Building

ipad case

high/essential

Brand building

laptop Bag

high/essential

part of collection

paper holder

moderate

-ve

laptop case

high/essential

Brand building

Book holder

moderate/essential

Brand building

cardcases

moderate/essential

Brand building

jotter

moderate/essential

Brand Building

makeup roll

high/essential

Brand building

Wallet

high/essential

part of collection

overnighter

high/essential

part of collection

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Trend Research

At Work

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Trend Research For understanding the upcoming trends for the next season, and thus making relevant collection, Nappa Dori relies on through and selective Trend Research and forecasts. As my collections were to be based upon the coming half of the year i.e. June – July 2014 onwards, I had to research on current ongoing trends as well as future trends and other research details. I have drawn my initial inspiration from these sources and have moved to make making concepts to substantiate the theme. Inspiration and Ideas can strike from a number of places, as I realized when I started ideating. It could be a certain kind of shape, function or just hardware details. While researching it sometimes just came across as a completely different way of looking at something very mundane or “daily”.

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Reference was made from the latest International fashion and design magazines like Vogue, Monocle etc. Further, Gautam Sinha also helped with informative updates, as he travels abroad for various events and keeps track of informative updates regarding consumer behavior and new trends. Field survey regarding trends was done to see consumer behavior, popular bag styles – shapes, colors, types of bags. I have utilized inputs from Delhi – On going trends in France…Boutiques, Malls and stores were visited. I segmented data again on similar guidelines as done for Consumer reach. The four categories were as: 1. Under 25 2. 26-35 years 3. 36-45 year 4. 45 above

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Under 25

The 25 - 35 years

The 35 - 45 years

The under 25 age was observed to carry more of tote-style kind of bags. And recent trend that has been observed is the backpack - Big, bright and multi Utility. These are unisex bags are finding their way into the market with great gusto. Seen in the market in materials like cloth, leatherette, canvas and in various sizes from mini back packs to full sized travel sized backpacks. In bags - Jute, Leatherette, Cloth were popular options. This category has the maximum number of students based population. This category is aware of the fast moving trends, and this category likes to follow such trends.

The 25 – 35 years are seen carrying leather bags mostly, though in many cases and brands…leatherette too. This category consists of the slightly more arrived and mature category. Their expenditure allowance is more and is style conscious and not “Fad” conscious. Hence this category is aware of the trends and follows a more classic approach towards trends. Colors like blacks, browns and muted shades are preferred amongst the office going category. As these colors are classic and be used for mostly any occasion. In colors – Red, Maroons, Navy blues are generally preferred. For a more casual look these colors are teamed with a contrasting “Pop” of color. Work bags are important category for this group.

The 35-45 category is observed to be very obvious of their style choices. These are seasoned individuals, who know what they want and wear their hearts, choices and even their professions on their sleeves! They are not style conscious as the 25-35 category, but surely not oblivious to trends. The working individuals in this category prefer big rectangular shaped bags in muted colors. For other purposes they prefer small evening bags in muted greens, browns, whites etc.

But this age bracket doesn’t stick to one trend for long and there is less of brand loyalty and their expenditure allowance makes them stick to cheaper, makeshift and more value for money brands and products.

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Under 25 Bold colors,Prints,Canvas,Jute, Tote Bags and Backpacks

Ages 25 - 35 Neutral Browns,blacks,color blocking,Rectangular shaped, spacious,Bold Hardware,Pockets

Trend Forecasting

Ages 35 Above Handbags,Evening bags,muted colors,darks, defined silhouette

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What is Trend Forecasting ?

Short term forecasting

Trend forecasting is a global career that focuses on upcoming trends. A fashion forecaster predicts the colors, fabrics and styles that will be presented on the runway and in the stores for the upcoming seasons. The concept applies to not one, but all levels of the fashion industry including haute couture, ready-to-wear, mass market, and street wear. Trend forecasting is an overall process that focuses on other industries such as automobiles, medicine, food and beverages, literature, and home furnishings. Trend forecasters are responsible for attracting consumers and helping retail businesses and designers sell their brands. Today, fashion industry workers rely on the Internet to retrieve information on new looks, hot colors, celebrity wardrobes, and designer collections.

Short-term forecasting focuses on current events both domestically and internationally as well as pop culture in order to identify possible trends that can be communicated to the customer through the seasonal color palette, fabric, and silhouette stories. As my trend forecast method, I chose short term Forecasting as the time limits allowed for this type of trend research. I took the help of fashion magazines like Elle,Vogue - their websites,which have special spaces dedicated to future and upcoming trends,trend forecast sites like - womensweardaily.com,Style.com,Refinery 29.com.Trends from runway shows were looked up - for insights into the clothes,looks and colors ,Accessories trends for shapes and surfaces,and street style was looked into for getting important insights.The following pages show the trend research done in detail at Nappa Dori with refernces taken from various websites and fashion show previews.

Long - term forecasting Long-term forecasting is the process of analyzing and evaluating trends that can be identified by scanning a variety of sources for information. It is a fashion which lasts over two years.When scanning the market and the consumers, fashion forecasters must follow demographics of certain areas, both urban and suburban, as well as examine the impact on retail and its consumers due to the economy, political system, environment, and culture. Long-term forecasting seeks to identify: major changes in international and domestic demographics, shifts in the fashion industry along with market structures, consumer expectations, values, and impulsion to buy, new developments in technology and science, and shifts in the economic, political, and cultural alliances between certain countries.

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2. The Sapper

Military Academy Utility is in Androgyny Structure Boot camp PREPARED Pronounced Hardware

4. 3.

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1. Nautical-Meets-Military Trend NYFW SS2014 2. and 4. Burberry A/W13 Menswear show 3. DKNY Multi pocket Bag 5. Ollio Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Winter Lace Ups Military Ankle Boots Buckle High Heels Shoe

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Also Known as the Pioneer or combat engineer,a Sapper is Eveready to face the challenge of facilitating movement of Allies and impeding those of the enemies. Be it building bridges,or clearing minefields the sapper is always equipped and raring to go.Military inspired cuts and trims enter the world of the sapper where commanding attention and executing orders is all but a part of an easy day. Felt trims tweed woolen tweed Accentuated hardware Multi Pockets lapels straps overlapping flaps

AW 2014 SEPTEMBER

The shade/color chart was prepared as per the Trend Forecast, and the palette was identified using websites such as designseeds.com and Pantone.com. Later to get a unified result,the shades were identified on the Pantone color chart for clear refernce

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PRINTLANTIS

Tropical Native Repetitive Pattern Nouveau Boheme Curated Botanicals Handcrafted Nostalgic Home made

Be inspired by the mythical world of the Print juxtaposed with the Silhouette. Moving into the future by the way of the Past. A multi hued palette Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an inherent sense of tradition and ritual, as repeated geometric patterns create a majestic visual appeal.

Resort 2014 nOVEMBER

Jewel-tones Intricate florals Jacquard fabrics Elaborate Texture Artisanal accents

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KISS

Pristine Fresh Minimal Old Charm Clean Lines Simplify

1. Hermes Spring 2015 2. WHET runway 2015 3. Thakoon Spring 4. APC Brown Pebbled Leather Bucket Bag Vintage cycle and handrawing via. refinery 29 page : Preview Spring 2015 124

Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

Keep it simple,silly! The kiss is all about embracing the simple things in life. The technological evolution,busy schedules call out for a need to go back to basics. Typewriters,Cycles and ample time to smell flowers. Simple pheasant skirts with straight cut silhouettes define going back in time to a relaxed relaity. Breathe in,Breathe out!

SS 2015 FEBRUARY

Simple Geometry Clean lines Vintage Hues Light Weightless The shade/color chart was prepared as per the Trend Forecast, and the palette was identified using websites such as designseeds.com and Pantone.com. Later to get a unified result,the shades were identified on the Pantone color chart for clear refernce

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Design Direction Having analyzed the key elements and directions to work out the directions to base the collections upon, the next step was to get deeper into the consumer profile, so that the directions taken would justify the product and reach out to the destined consumer. Since I was looking primarily at womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s accessories, so I narrowed my focus into their lifestyle and patterns of living. For analyzing this information, one had to develop story board, which gives insight into their age brackets, their attitudes, work places (since the target group is the independent working woman) and their homes.

Conceptualization Workplace

Analysis of Key Elements (Forecst+Trend Research)

Design Direction

Conceptualization

Personas

Attitude Key words

Home

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Conceptualization After doing the necessary 1. Information Collection 2. Research and Analysis 3. Design Direction I jumped straight to Conceptualization. The process of Conceptualization for each idea involved the following process : 1. Development of Mood Boards 2. Problem Mapping 3. Corresponding design sketches. The conceptualization should justify the trend forecast as well as go hand in hand with the Nappa Dori look. Since Nappa Dori is primarily a brand that positions itself as classic, minimal yet stylish, my challenge was to make a parallel between the Brand and the Trends.

After this, a more in-depth approach was done towards each design. After this was done, a final presentation was made to Gautam Sinha, to be carried forward. The next step was to get one bag of each ideation sampled. This was a long process since every detail demanded attention due to new construction details and so the possibility of many mistakes was to be made and rectified.

Post sampling, the bags were user tested, in many cases, there were still more changes to be made in order to proceed to a fully functional Nappa Dori product range. The whole process was a great learning experience for me , as I learnt the difference between just making a product…and getting an un-biased feedback on it and making the needed changes and amends.

I also was a part of the sales meetings in which the previous month sales reports were generated and new productions were undertaken, and also buyer meetings. These gave me an insight and an understanding of the entire system and a close up with what sells and what is in demand .So my conceptualization ideas were based somewhat upon these inputs.

Initially I had chosen many directions; I did initial sketches, drawn from a specific inspiration, worked on small details to see if the idea worked or not and then presented it to the design team and Gautam. Together we went through the designs and discussed their merits or demerits and decided to take forward certain designs or drop a few ideas as they were not going well with the look of the brand or were technically not viable.

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After each sample was brought into realization, they were presented to Gautam Sinha and the rest of the design team, the bags were scrutinized fully and accordingly certain changes were made on some elements or some were cancelled if they were not working with the brand. At this stage, the next step was to fully complete the range in accordance to the feedback and research.

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Apporved

Design Direction

Conceptualization

Sketches/Ideations

Mock -Ups

Samples

Production

Corrections

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Developing the Collections Once the design language and the product list was discussed and decided, the collection was segregated into relevant categories,which are as follows : Nappa Dori Traveler Nappa Dori Corporate Nappa Dori India Rose I advanced into ideations keeping in mind the parallels between the Trends Research done previously, Trend Forecast and the Nappa Dori product language. With all these three factors in mind, I set out to first ideate about the rough product ranges that has been discussed on two - dimensional platform. After doing various rough sketches and coming across the specific language I was looking forward to for each persona,I came down to the level of developing mock-ups. Post discussion and changes,these mock-ups were converted into actual size samples,to see if they would work as a future range or will they work as an addition to an already existing range.

Nappa Dori Traveler

The product development in the following pages traces the development of the entire product list and the pictures of the products have been grouped range wise at the end.

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The Traveler Age: 27 – 35 Attitude: Young and Adventurous, they live their profession, they are high spirited and an open minded. A connoisseur of cross cultural experience, she/he is creative as well is a risk taker. He/she is well educated and experienced. The travel lives and learns from these experiences, often capturing them through the lens of theircamera or penning them down. The travel is Organized…always on the go, passionate about travel and incorporates it in their lifestyle. The travel is an individual who is looking and living for new experiences. He/She is well traveled, or has aspirations to join the ranks of the welltraveled. The Traveler is not defined by typical demographic statistics but by the places they have visited and the experiences they have shared. They embrace the unlimited possibility of the future and are open to an invitation to try the unfamiliar.

Workplace: Their job requires them to travel a lot. TheTraveler balances and merges work and relaxation with style. Home: The Travel lives in their home spacenwhich reminds them of the places they have visited. His/Her home weaves a story around him/her. The travelers heart is always close to home and their spirit is boundless, which speaks about their personal taste and creativity. The Consumer: The traveler has a defined taste, which reflects in their buying tastes. They are eco – conscious and prefers Hand-made and Crafts because they realize the value and the charm which such objects hold.

Risk-taker Aspirational Free-spirited Organic Open Passionate

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Mapping

Travelista

Collection 1: Traveler The Traveler is passionate about travel and incorporate ates it as a part of their life. He/she is someone whose personal style and taste is a result of an exposure to the rich cultures of the world developed through travel, interaction and awareness of other cultures and reflected not just in their fashion choices but in lifestyle as well. A traveler is a citizen of the world.

Travel

Bags Suitcase passport case Pouch Camera bag Tote bag Camera iPad iPhone Extra set of clothing Passport Card

Roomy

Easy to Carry

Hard bags with different mechanism

Soft Bags that can be folded

Versatile

As I began to ideate more about the profile of the Traveler and a travel collection that was suitable,I started ideation with an overnighter. Since overnighters/carry-alls are visually largest products in the collection and they usually define the look of the collection, I started on working on the collection with basic forms of overnighters,slings and carry-alls . As per the design directions, the construction and function of the style was to be converted into the styles design element as well. Hence the handles, construction styles like darting, flap closures became elements of interest that were taken as inspiration.

Inspiration â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Different methods of Carrying and Compartmentalization. With the traveler in mind,I thought the idea of carrying a bag in different ways would be something interesting to explore. Bags where compartmentalization and different carrying style becomes a part of the bag collection. Another possibility of compartmentalization in such a way so that the whole form of the bag could remain the same but the compartments could be used in a different manner became a challenging opportunity. As I started trying out a variety of options of carrying/ carriage of bags, the possibility of slinging the bag like a backpack and carrying it as a sling bag was an interesting one, especially keeping in mind the persona of the Creative Traveler â&#x20AC;&#x201C; who handles a lot of baggage while traveling and requires a creative/ interesting and a presentable way to carry their belongings.

Different methods of carriage

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Developing the Traveler

Different ways of carrying a Bag Looking at the different ways a bag like the carry-all could be carried,I observed interesting ways of carriage,which included 1. Slinging over the shoulder 2. Cleverly molded handles that changed the language of the bag. 3. raping over the back - like a backpack 4. Like a briefcase 5. Cross body 5.

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Direction 1 : The first option was to work on Hard Bags i.e. Bags with a fixed form and shape and introduce handles and slings in such a way that the bag could be carried in a myriad number of ways.

Referring to the Trend Research and Analysis,I played with the idea of using : 1. Full - Leather bags. 2. Fabric/Canvas + leather 3. Prints + Leather Trims

Direction 2 : The second option was to Introduce a range of soft bags i.e. Totes/Backpack/ fold over clutches/ envelope style bags and wallets which complimented the bigger bags and somehow formed a part of the bigger ones in some manner.

As this was the Travel range,it was decided by Mr. Gautam Sinha and the design team that canvas and leather was the most promising option,as it will go well with the look as well give the advantage of being rugged,more versatile and easy to handle than a full leather option and provide the look of luxury that Nappa Dori is synonymous with.

I tried experimenting with various sizes of bags initially in combination a variety of Handle shapes to find the most feasible one. Also the entire range of sizes and proportions were made to check and see which dimensions worked best for the bag.

Cloth/Canvas and Leather would allow more space and versatility, along with the strength and hard backing with leather.

This style would go well with the look of Nappa Dori, who has only done fully leather overnighter /Carry-all bags in the Past. The Idea of introducing Fabric/Canvas and Leather was discussed with the team and was found to be favorable for Nappa Dori. I realized that in some cases, the bag needed to be fully in leather and a fabric cushioned lining worked better than having a softer bag in all the cases. I started looking at handles that could accentuate and fit the shape of the various bags.I tried different shapes to realize that the simplest shapes were the ones that held most promise.

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The Overnighter As per the personality profiles, while discussing the Traveler profile, the requirement of inclusion of an Overnighter bag was felt as the persona travels for short trips. The Overnighter, as being the largest bag in the range was in a way going to decide the overall language of the entire collection. History of the Small Overnighter or the Valise: Often used as a term for a suitcase, a valise is actually a specialized type of luggage that is intended for a specific purpose. Essentially, it is a small bag that is utilized for short trips, particularly overnight stays away from home.

Since the valise is normally small enough to remain in the possession of the owner, locks may or may not be included in the design. In general, it is the ideal size to fit into an overhead compartment on a plane, as well as fitting in the storage section found under most airline seats. It will also fit comfortably in overhead storage on most buses as well. for many people, the convenience and ease of use that are characteristics of the valise ensure that this simple small suitcase will remain a valuable travel accessory for many years to come.

A true valise is relatively lightweight, is easy to transport, and has just enough room for a change of clothing and essential hygiene products. While the original meaning of the valise has been expanded over the years, manufacturers of fine luggage continue to employ the term in the same manner as past generations. It is typically a very simple type of overnight bag. The body is usually slightly rectangular in shape and includes one simple compartment. Items are folded and placed in this main compartment, and the lid is closed and secured with the use of two simple latches. 138

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Overnighter bag by Ralph Lauren

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Concept Development 1. First I made sketches for the ideas I had in mind. 2. The travelista required to carry a change of clothes, their personal belongings like cards etc. and tech items like camera most importantly. 3. I tried making different sizes mock ups to see the volume that was required to fit the basic essential objects like - One pair of clothes,Camera,Shoes, toiletries.

4. After the Initial ideations of form in mockups and sketches, a form was finalized upon. 5. Taking inspiration from the ease of opening, instead of using a traditional zipper, an aluminum hard slid er mechanism was utilized so that it assists in easy of opening/closing. 6. Instead of making a single gusset/compartment, a separate lower compartment as a design and func tional element was introduced.

The mock-up was then checked for its sizing and a sample piece was sampled. Keeping in mind the Persona and look of Nappa Dori, Ikat fabric was used in combination with tan cow leather. A spec sheet was made which contained all the details in terms of leather type and color, the hardware and accessories and the construction details.

The initial design was finalized; and a working mockup of the bag was developed. The lower compartment had an accessible zipper for lower space that could be utilized to store an extra set of clothing as well as shoes.

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Concept Development

Different swatches of Ikat fabric were chosen and matched with the leather available at Nappa Dori. Ikat was chosen as it represented the spirit of the Nappa Dori Traveler well ie. A traveler in touch with his/her roots. The combination of Ikat and leather worked well as Nappa Dori already has a similar collection in the past which consisted of satchel bags and laptop cases which upon discussion was decided could be extended further.

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Suggestions and Modifications The final prototype had a further scope for improvement in the finishing aspects. 1. The pattern for the joining of the top fabric and lower leather com partment wasn’t cut out in the proper shape. The point where the top and bottom panels meet was too narrow and did not do justice to the connecting of the zipper. It needed to have additional allow ance on the sides as the zipper needed space to end up as well it wasn’t stable.

2. The lining of the ikkat/canvas part needed a stronger padding at the base. After preparing the sam ple in leather and fabric,while putting in stuff I realized that the base needed a proper rubber pad ding because it had the tendency to sag to the bottom when it was filled. A hard Cardboard sheet would not work because it was making the bag sag into the leather sec tion. Therefore a thick rubber padding was suggested to main tain the balance between strength and the to prevent automatic sagging.

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3. The bottom portion of the valise needed to have ventilation vents for air to pass,as the lower por tion of the bag could be utilized to store a pair of clothes and shoes and required adequate amount of ventilation.

The Backpack A backpack was chosen to be a part of the collection as the Travelista profile demanded the need for a bag that could be used for daily purposes to carry important daily things like laptop/camera/chargers/stationary etc along. A backpack is synonymous with comfort and the ability to take load easily.

Backpacks are a fashion staple currently. Found in a wide variety of materials and prints,these much favored bags are found in a variety of sizes - from the traveler’s practical and sturdy backpack to dainty small sized ones used to carry just a wallet and some small knickknacks

The Backpack Backpacks are also widely known as rucksacks, knapsacks, packs and pack-sacks. To define it, one can simply say that it’s a bag to be carried on the back with straps (usually two) that either goes over the shoulders or across. However, if we get into the details, we get to know that there are several types of backpacks and what we today know as backpacks were once known as simple sacks for shoulders. Backpacks have evolved over the centuries. They have become more elite, feature filled and useful. Over the centuries,their role remains the same- to carry load. In 50s backpacks weren’t as good and comfortable as they are today. But slowly the idea of designing lightweight, sturdy and compact backpacks came into being. This one idea of his changed the whole game and the modern backpacks came into existence.

Backpacks are found in different shapes and sizes and are very favored in the accessories market currently as per trend research. Shown in the above images 1. Embroidered backpack by QQ Boutique 2. Backpack by Herschel Supply Co.

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Concept Development After doing the initial sketches, it was finalized by Mr. Gautam Sinha and design team that a shape which was gender-neutral, was favorable as in the case of Nappa Dori backpack silhouette. After the initial rubber mockup and sizing was developed, we tried a number of combinations for the side pockets; again the vote was in favor of simpler and cleaner pockets on either side.

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After the Initial rubber mock-up was finalized, I sampled the finalized backpack shape in Canvas with leather trimmings as the backpack did not require the traditional Nappa Dori Rubber sheet support. After few initial changes, the design was finalized; it was given in the workshop with the canvas sample. A spec sheet was made which contained all the details in terms of leather type/fabric type and color, the hardware and accessories and the construction details.

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The prototype of the backpack was sent for production as it did not have too many technical errors. Nappa Dori introduced the Ikat Backpacks in their collection of bags as a part of their Summer Collection. The backpack was introduced in two colors, 1. Blue+Tan 2. Black+Tan. The bags worked well for the look of Nappa Dori as previously Nappa Dori has Ikat based satchel bags which are one of the bestsellers of the company.

Harness Backpack As the collection was being discussed, the need to have a After the Initial Ideation,I started with the rubber mockHarness leather Backpack was suggested as an alternate up. After taking an initial idea of the dimensions of the idea to a Hobo bag. bag,I started to ideate for the carrying techniques I could come up with. The focus on this bag being that it had a rugged yet a very sophisticated look which is essential to Nappa Dori Initially as decided,dog-hooks were used on either side and would set it apart in the range of backpacks that are of the bag, but after explorations buckle closures were currently available in the market, thus giving Nappa Dori used and individual belt- like straps were used as straps. is distinctive Edge in this much favorite and trendy bag These straps could be adjusted and used as 1. Backpack category. 2. Cross body sling 3. shoulder sling bag. After much brain storming and trials, we settled upon a boxy shape for the bag, with Harness detachable straps. The hardware was decided as such that could be used to carry as a backpack as well as a sling, by detaching the straps from the bag. Brass buckles were decided as fitting for this role as they integrated the feel of a travelerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s spirit too. As for the hardware for the flap of the bag, dog hooks were used as an element as the previous bags were utilizing them too. To keep the homogeneity alive, dog hooks as closure were suggested.

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Concept Development

Initial Sketches

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Suggestions and Modifications After the initial mock-up was made the following changes were applied: 1. The width of the bag was reduced by 1 inch, as it was giving a very boxy silhouette. 2. Suggestions were laid forward for putting in a detachable lining in Fabric,inside the bag as harness has a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;fuzzyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; base, so that it could be used to cushion a laptop/IPad and give a clean finish. The lining was detachable so as to be able to fit in other things as well as per choice. 3. The height of the bag was also reduced so as to fit in the measurements of a sling bag. 4. The strap thickness was uncomfortable upon user testing,therefore for production purposes it was decided to use webbing straps instead of harness leather bags.

Nappa Dori modeled a smaller backpack upon similar lines that I had created the harness bag upon. The dimensions of the bag were 11 by 11 inch. The same idea for detachable lining was utilized in the bag. Instead of using harness leather straps, a 1.5 inch webbing was utilized. The idea of using buckles was also replaced by using traditional dog-hook straps because user convenience needed to be kept in mind. The Ikat Harness Sling can be worn as : 1. Crossbody 2. Sling 3. Backpack due to its versatile straps and buckle hardware

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Folding Totes Tote bags which were fold-able were added to the profile as they fit into the persona profile of the Traveler and held special value as they were more feminine. Fold-able totes were and interesting idea as upon market research on tote bags,we came across a multitude of tote bags that were in canvas and leather. It was decided that Nappa Dori do a take on the conventional Tote bag as it would provide an interesting product and would fit perfectly in the travel category as the totes could be folded smartly and stored for usage easily inside cramped spaces. History of Tote Bag Tote bags definitely have become one of the most used types of bags in the recent past. They are used for various purposes and probably thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the reason why they have become so famous. For any woman looking for a convenient way to carry her items around, the tote bag is definitely the most appropriate one to go for. The term tote means to carry. Tote bags are simple large and open bags with a handle placed on the center top of each side. The classic tote bags used to come with arched straps but now variations can be found. Initially, tote bags never came with buttons or zippers. However, since the need of protecting the 154

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previous items that can be placed in the bags were felt, zippers and other ways of closing the opening of the bag were introduced. These bags are mostly used for heavy duty tasks such as grocery shopping/shopping/carrying picnic items and the like. But, thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not all. Today, these bags are also being used as fashion accessories. Leather tote bags are quite common among women trying to add a style statement to their personalities. On the other hand, even men use tote bags for a variety of purposes. For carrying their daily day items to work and a number of other purposes these bags are used.

Tote bag by Michael Kors

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After sketching out the various forms and styles of totes, the decision was made to stick to a simpler and straight form for the tote as it would aid the design into folding efficiently. I tried various folding techniques – some very simple, such as folding simply into different folds like how one would do to a piece of paper and some origami inspired. After ideating and discussing with the design team, we came to the conclusion that simpler folding techniques and even rolling could be used as an effective alternative. Two main tote bags were taken forward from the ideations. Tote no. 1 Tote no. 1 used the concept of folding + rolling into a small roll and fastened by the top flap closure. Suggestions and Modifications 1. The pattern was cut out narrow to fit in the proper volume of things. The width was thus increased by 1.5 inches to accommodate more volume. The pattern of the bag was reworked. 2. The handles that were used initially, were made out of cloth did not work with the bag and were replaced with full harness straps.

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Tote no. 2 Tote no. 2 used the concept of “folding in” and has an outer segment that can be used as a functional clutch. I experimented with different folding- in techniques and eventually the simplest solution seemed like the most viable option. Suggestions and Modifications 1. The material used for the bag was thin and needed to be used with a rubber backing and a lining to give it strength. This concept did not work well for the tote bag range as Nappa Dori does very basic tote bags. 2. The Handles, as was observed after sampling did not have enough strength to carry the whole weight of the bag. 3. The handles length was not going well with the en tire body…hence the length has been shortened. Handle shapes were worked out and a series of pro totypes were made to check the grip and the com fort in handling. The final handle was made out of fabric whose ends were stitched along with the top margin of the bag. 4. The bag is still being modified and to be released in the future as a part of the Traveler range of bags.

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Wallets and Pouches Wallet

Multi- Purpose Pouch

After sampling the traveler range of bags,it was decided to add small accessories like wallets and pouches to it since I wanted to experiment with a more feminine silhouette and wanted to see its potential by introducing a simple and basic shape but more on the lines of a clutch.

Tote no. 1

A range is incomplete without adding the small yet essential wallet to it. In this scenario,the general language of the range was simple with curved edges,so taking inspiration from the shape of flap of the tote bag,I worked upon a small wallet which could accommodate basic essentials like cash,cards and change for the Traveler. Again,a combination of harness leather in tan with an inner lining of Ikkat was utilized to keep in harmony with the rest of the range. The wallet shape utilizes one pattern of leather to be folded upon itself and being secured by a single clove button.

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A multi - purpose pouch in Ikat fabric was introduced to the range as well as the requirement to store various products while traveling was felt. I came up with the idea of a soft pouch fold over kit,which could be used to store a large quantities of products like a IPad or just general toiletries. Utilizing a single zipper and one internal lining pocket,this pouch is versatile. To add an element of decoration,a small charm/tassel was added to the pouch for experimentation purposes. The element did not work well with the language of Nappa Dori.

The design was finalized without changes and was sent into immediate production by Nappa Dori in different colors of harness leathers and combinations of ikkat fabric.

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Traveler Collection

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Nappa Dori Corporate

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The Corporate Age: 27 – 45 Attitude: The Corporate is a go getter. They are multitasking professionals who like to lead and excel in several roles in their lives. The Corporate alternates between professional life and their personal pursuits. They are highly adept at multitasking. The term Corporate defines professionals who are passionate about their careers and strive to conquer the various challenges that their professions and life offers. They are smart as well as Ambitious. They are a responsible and an effective problem solver. He/She is focused and is strong. The Corporates’ style is impeccable and to the point. He/She is a risk taker and their style language reflects this.

Workplace: He/She is an Achiever. A “to the point” person. The Corporate commands attention. He/She believes in Utility and no extra frills. They travels frequently owing to her professional engagements. Home: Clean, understated yet luxurious, the Corporate abode is tailor made for their needs. The consumer: The corporate is a gadget freak. He/She is well aware of the trends in technology and fashion. The Corporate thrives in the clean efficiency of their style. Everything they buy has a definitive air of rich subtlety to it. The Corporate prefers sophisticated exclusive brands.

Organized Tailored Professional Planner Driven Ambitious

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Mapping

Corporette

Collection 2: Corporate Most bags are made up of two elements - the aesthetic beauty and functionality. A well designed bag has both these elements going hand in hand. While developing ideas for the Nappa Dori Corporate,I focused on the aspect of functionality as it went well with the profile of a Corporate go-getter.

Office Office related Travel

Computer sleeve Laptop bag Wallet Overnighter Organizers iPad sleeve Travel cases

Accesibility

I began mapping the problem areas that the Corporate WWcould face in day to day life. The first thing that stuck me was the need for easily accessible gadgets for

the corporette to function seamlessly in her busy day.The corporate has the need for using his gadgets like Ipad,phone and Laptop/jotter ready at hand to record important details. Upon market research,while looking at the segments of formal and semi formal bags I observed different variations of Bags with user friendly pockets and compartmentalization options.

Functionality

Usage of products in office

Bags which different openinigs / storage

Experimenting with traditional form of pockets and making them more accessable and arrange it in new way

Looking at the semi - formal and formal bags,pockets and compartmentalization were common and done in various styles.The area of ideation therefore became to focus on other different functions of pockets and other ways to easy accessibility to tech and day to day office use items.

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Nappa Dori Corporate After doing market research on various corporate bags and keeping the trend forecast in mind,I came to the conclusion that the Corporate collection needed to focus on a mature and functional approach to design. Mapping out the basics that the Corporate persona would require in day to day life,I set out to sketch out different shapes and forms that I thought would work well.

Design Inspiration : Functionality and Pockets

Apart from looking good and speaking of a personâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s style preference, a bag holds on to a number of essential things that we may require to present immediately when at work.

Direction 1 : The first option was to take the inspiration from a pocket and its form and arrange it in such a manner that it would solve the problem of trying to find contents of the bag quickly and easily.

And it is a well known fact that we can seldom find important things in our bags when we need to and for being the efficient person the Corporette is,it was essential to solve this problem.

Direction 2 : The second option was to take the form of the bag and try to use its opening mechanism - finding creative and new methods of opening and accessing the contents of the bag such that it facilitated ease in access to contents of the bag and helped in arranging things.

In history, the ladies bag in its earliest form appeared in the early 18th century as mentioned in early times is that it originated as a silk purse or pocket worn against the skin. In todays modern world,a bag has similar sentiment attached to it. It has become an essential part of our being,it clings intimately with the bodyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s form and carrying our important daily lives things.Not only for women but men too the bag becomes an integral part of our daily lives. My beginning point of research was from here- looking at the importance of the office bag in our daily lives.

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Keeping in mind the profile of the Corporette,I chose to go with the idea of using more dark -toned leather available at Nappa Dori.I played with idea of using simpler and sober colors along with one element that was highlighted. It could be the straps of the bag....or it could just be the lining that could bring in a surprise pop of color that would make the range exciting and surprising in a subtle yet playful manner.

I was encouraged to use the family of dark browns and dark greens , navy blues as a color palette as it was more representative of Nappa Dori than plain black.

Leather swatches from Top - 1. Bobby 2. Buff Brown 3. Cherry Bobby 4. Harness Green 5. Glazed Black 6. Harness Navy

I went in with the darker color scheme of Nappa Dori leather : Dark browns and blacks. Upon discussion the

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Concept Development Again I referred to the previous Consumer research,Trend research and Analysis. Taking pointers for a work related range and the formal profile I started from a small accessories that would be directly repeatable to the office environment. I tried sketching out various small accessories and related the research to what gadgets are most commonly handled by the Corporette on daily basis.

Ipad Case As per the personality profiles, while discussing the Corporate profile, the requirement of an Ipad sleeve/Jotter was felt as the persona spends a considerable time of the day in meetings in office. I chose to use Harness Variety of leather for making a zipper style hard case which could be used as an Ipad case as well as a hard backed letter pad. After making Initial sketches and forms I explored various other options such as: 1. Option of having a zipper that went all around the file and opened up the case like a book. 2. Giving a pocket flap on the inside to store a small sketch pad/sheets of paper. 3. Giving a slip in pocket for storing a phone. 4. Giving an alternate slip- in lining for the Ipad to slip in without trouble.

Observing the Gadgets that are used most frequently by the Corporette. She is on the move and frequently relies on smaller Gadgets like her phone,a tablet and stationary and a pad to write on. With the onset of smarter and simpler technology in use these days,she does not have to rely upon using her computer and desk at all times.

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After trying to fit these various objects in the mock up I realized that it would be a good idea not to give an Ipad lining and just give a simple elastic band on one side and a flap pocket to accomodate a small paper pad.The elasticated band would be used as a filer/paper carrier as well as accomodate an Ipad inside.

Initial Sketches

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Final Sketches

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Sling Bag A pocket was provided on the face of the Ipad panel to slip in important notes or a cellphone.

A zipper that runs on all 3 sidesof the case,giving it the feel of a notebook and providing easy access for opening.

The Inner lining was puckering due to the folding-unfloding action.It was decided to add a seperate lining section in the middle and two on either side so that the pucker could be controlled.

Provision of elasticated bands was provided to fit an Ipad mini.Later this was changed and a singular long band was provided which could be used to keep an IPad or notebook.

The second addition to the Corporette collection was that of a sling bag,as the collection demanded a bag for to fit in a laptop Taking Inspiration from a structured and simple form - almost military style simplicity,as was the case in the Ipad Case too,it was decided to stick to a simple form with an interesting closing and accessibility option. Various options for new kinds of opening were tried. A simple bag shape was modified with two inner pockets and no gusset as an interesting alternative to the traditional bag,as shown in the Images. But later this idea was discarded as the the bag would be cumbersome to open when an actual laptop of heavy gadgetry was placed inside it.The placement of the zippers was also not correct,as only one side of the bag could be accessed at one time,hence the idea was not taken further from the mock - up stage. However,using similar language and function,it was thought out that instead of a vertical opening a sideways opening could work too. Initial Sketches

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Product Development

1. 1. A rectangular shaped bag with two pockets for gussets and no actual gusset was an interesting concept. One side contained card pockets,pen slots and a small pocket - the other side a padded pocket to fit a laptop.

2. 2.The bag had a lower gusset so to access it,one of the flaps needed to be left off so that one side of the bag could be accessed.

Product Development

3. 3.The placement of the zippers made the bag difficult to use. If one side needed to open,the other flapâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s placement of zipper was completely unaccessible.

1. The top flap or the opening of the bag is a traditional flap with a push - mechanism hardware. 2. The Main body of the bag contains a padded pocket for a laptop.

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3. Above the pocket are two overlap ping flaps - One of which side holds a clear pocket to facilitate easy store for tech. chargers etc.

4. The opposite pockets contains pen holders and ID card pockets. 5. Soft buff leather - Nappa Dori Bobby leather was chosen to exe cute the final sample.

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Product Development

Mock-ups were made keeping in mind the vertical opening mechanism as was decided previously. After many trials and ideas later,a suitable bag form with flaps on the front side of the bag were developed that are overlapping each other. Harness leather was the original option so as to keep in line with the Ipad case,but the weight of the harness bag would make the whole bag too cumbersome and small details were not easily achieved. So it was a common decision to execute the bag in soft dark brown cow leather.

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Suggestions and Modifications : 1. The size of the bag was narrow to fit in a 13 inch laptop easily. Hence the width was increased by 1.5 inches with allowance to folding flaps. 2. The hardware placement on the flap was changed,and a single more pronounced push style hardware was used instead to keep the look minimal. 3. After Initial sampling of the bag,the interior pockets were padded thickly to ensure safe carriage of tech products. The exterior combination colors were changed and a combination of hounds-tooth pattern canvas and dark brown leather.

2. The Hardware for the flap was reduced from : 1. two push-claps to 2. a single,bigger push-flap

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The Overnighter The third category of bag to the Corporette collection was that of an overnighter,as it was felt that this addition was vital because the persona required an exclusive travel bag. The same approach of structured and simple form was followed for this overnighter. 1. Various bag forms were sketched out till it was decid ed to go in for the same straight and spacious feel. 2. Added feature of a seperate padded pocket with a flap and gusset was decided to be added to the traditional form of the bag,keeping in mind the product language of pockets and accessability. 3. The front pocket has the size of 13 by 15 inches keeping in mind that a laptop could be fit into it and reached over easily without reaching into the bag when the Corporette is traveling. 4. A shoe compartment was added to the bag keeping in mind that storing shoes etc was a basic necessity and shoe compartments are a regular feature of any premium formal overnighter bag. 5. The leather used in the construction of the bag was chosen to be soft cow in dark brown to keep the sub tle yet luxurious look of the range alive.

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Corporate Collection

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India Rose

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India Rose Age: 27 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 35 Attitude: India Rose is a juxtaposition between whimsical and reality. She is a dreamer. She is a creator and follower of her visions. She follows her heart. She capture her dreams on set as a freelance stylist with her vivid imagination. She has a keen sense of observation and a taste for sensible personal style. She spends her time by gathering different inspiration for her next blog/shoot by attending various fashion weeks and trend shows. An imaginative individual,she is aware and in touch with her colorful creativity and she balances that with her down to earth and hassle free casual style.

Workplace: Her job alternates between a freelancing fashion and lifestyle blogger/columnist and a stylist for various magazines and websites. Home: Her apartment is where she expresses herself freely. She loves vintage charm mixed with modernist impressions. The consumer: She is an ardent trend follower but she has a sense of discretion . She loves to mix and match. She is well aware of the trends in fashion and lifestyle. She visits and collects inputs from various places like international markets to flea markets. She has an eye for the extraordinary,be it from a branded store,runway or street side.

Imaginative Creative Dreamer Aware Feminine Subtle

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Collection 3 : India Rose The third range of bags was decided to be a semi casual , laid-back look that would fit the persona of India Rose really well. This was Nappa Dori’s first venture into designing handbags specifically for the women’s section. As was found out by earlier research and interviews with the Nappa Dori customer,it was decided to venture out into this very viable section,but more for trail basis. Hence there was the challenge and opportunity of designing and exploring the wide field of the womens handbags. Gathering enormous data and inspirations,it was important that a design was chosen that would undeniably be feminine regarding its forms,colors and hardware but still keep the classic image of Nappa Dori intact.

India Rose

After researching several brands like Marc Jacobs,Dior, Michael Kors,Zara and Mango and looking at the general shapes,sizes and forms of the bags,it was concluded that various versions of the Tote bag,Backpacks,Bucket bags and grab bags were what was consisting of the semicasual range. A roomy single compartment with added accessories like pockets,charms and divisions with creative styling of straps was observed. After Starting to exploring and ideating various semicasual looks of handbags it was concluded that this range will include 2-3 handbags that would consist of a range and each bag was going to be differently sized.

After making basic ideation’s and sketches of the shape and size of the bags,I realized that the a very simple and square/rectangular shape might not work well as the shape of a bag as it was beginning to look more like a tote bag and lacked sophistication. After more form sketches and explorations,I decided that a simple shape that would hold true to the identity of Nappa Dori and add sophistication to its future womens range would be to experiment with simple shapes and add softness to them by the means of addition of Darts.

Design Inspiration : Softness achieved by Darts I began to sketch out the different possibilities after having a look at the simple evening /carry all’s and hobo bags. The initial ideas I came up with involved soft pleats and curves that would add sensuality to a womens range. Since pleats arent common in the Nappa Dori range and language, i looked to the changing of shape with the help of darts. Darts that could be achieved by adding darts and incorporating them to the form of bags.

Marc Jacobs and Michael Kors hobo bags

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After sketching different possibilities and discussion with the design team it was decided to go with the direction of adding darts to a rectangular shape to add volume to it and bring out sophistication and a softness to the form. The bags were decided to utilize soft cow full grain leather ,skiived so that the impression and touch of softness could be achieved. Direction 1 The direction that was approached was to bring softness to simple basic shapes like rectangular and square by adding darts. It was interesting to note that while making mock-ups,the length of the dart and the spacing between the size of the portion cut out for the dart greatly affected the shape and form of the bag. Direction 2: The second direction that was approached was that of using turned-in edges to bring softness to the bag and in order to maintain the flatness of the shape as it was important not to make bags with too much volume as they would not sit well with the image of Nappa Dori. So the usage of darts was used in the inner flaps to stick to the design inspiration and bring out a different result using the same technique.

Michael Kors range of clutches Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

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The Hand held Clutch The first category of bag to the India Rose collection was that of a hand held clutch,as it was felt that this addition was important because the persona required an exclusive small sized bag that could be carried casually as well as for more formal events. The same approach of adding darts was used for this type of bag too. Post ideations, the darting was done on the inside portion of the bag. A loose lining was introduced inside the clutch as it went well with the language of the bag. The clutch size was 9 inches in length and height was kept to be 7 inches keeping in mind that a the contents of the clutch could fit easily into it. Keeping in mind the profile of the persona,a small writing/drawing pad could fit inside it.

1. If a phone was placed inside it,the clutch became very small to fit anything else. Taking this into account,a twin gusset was introduced along with the first initial pocket. 2. No other inner pocket was given but instead a small card holder pocket was given for easy access to cards. 3. The leather used was thick so the look and feel of the clutch was not suitable. Hence the thickness of the leather was reduced further so that the soft and slouchy feeling was achieved.

After the initial sample was made,it was observed that the clutch did not have enough space to accommodate things.

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Suggestions and Modifications :

1. A twin gusset was added to the bag for more space in the bag. The two gussets utilized flat darting at the corners. 2.The final bag was looking incomplete and very infor mal. So later it was thought to add a brass chain with the drop length of 20 inch. 3.The thickness of the leather was reduced to achieve the soft effect that is typical of the clutch. 4. The leather color was changed to Tan as it had a more universal and feminine appeal to it. However for pro duction purposes,both Tan and Dark brown clutches will be produced.

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The Carry-All The second category of bag to the India Rose collection was that of a carry-all /Large bag,as it was felt that this addition was important because the persona required an exclusive big hold all sized bag that could be carried for work and could hold most of the personaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s requirements. The same approach of adding darts was used for this type of bag too. Post ideations,the darting was done on the main panels of the bag at the bottom to break away from the usual monotony of a tote and give volume to the bag.

A loose lining was introduced inside the bag along with a separate pocket inside it as it went well with the language of the bag. The bag initially size was 38 cms in length and width was kept to be 35 cms with a gusset. After the initial sample was being developed,different handle types were tried out - the shape and drop length of the handle was essential to decide as it would change the look and handling of the bag.

Various Gusset widthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s were experimented with to see which one would fit the look best. Varying lenghts of darts was experimented with. 202

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Suggestions and Modifications :

1. The strap of the sample was decided to be changed and made wider and with turned edges because it was uncom fortable during user testing. 2. Two magnets were need to be given on either side of the bag to keep it from opening up on it own. In the sample bag, the position of the magnets was incor rect and later for production purposes it was decided to use a zipper instead of the magnets. 3. The carry all would work better if the leather used was softer that the buffalo tan leather that was used.

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India Rose Collection

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Collection 4 : Extras As a part of the Diploma Project,it was expected of me to turn my attention to the current trends in the market and converting these trends into tangible products for Nappa Dori. After referring to the research analysis done earlier and one-to-one feedback from the Nappa Dori consumer ,the following products were worked upon. 1. Nappa Dori Backpack

2. Nappa Dori Basic Womens Wallet.

As per personal research done in the one-on-one basis with the consumers,it was found out that the Nappa Dori customer was looking forward to Backpacks as they are very much in trend in the market currently and Nappa Dori had to come up with a Unisex backpack as soon as possible.

The second product that was decided on for production was a basic womens wallet.

As we had worked with the Ikat backpack just recently,it was an easy decision to introduce a smaller backpack in a neutral fabric. The backpack was gives a rectangular form so as to differentiate it from other backpacks an pockets were added on either side of the gusset to enhance the functionality. The sample was created and approved,and is in production currently.

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Taking cue from the simple shapes of the Nappa Dori style,a three fold wallet in tan was sampled. According to basic needs,the wallet contained 1. change pocket with a zipper 2.Card Holder 3.Main pockets to hold Cash. 4.A pen slit to hold a pen. A small highlight of color was added to the wallet just for trial purposes. No decision was taken on it to be added for production purposes. A batch of five wallets was produced and kept in stores for the sake of recording consumer feedback.

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Nappa Dori Backpack: The color and shape that were finalized were neutral,following Nappa Dori product language.Pockets were added on either side to increase functionality.

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Collection 5: Pocket Squares Just as bags and shoes got together so do bags and scarves/pocket square. They complement each other in degree depending on contrasts of hue and tone or complete a look in similar tones. Pocket squares and scarves had shown up as an important product during the brainstorming and seemed like a logical extension for a tryout for Nappa Dori to extend its look. After discussing various options which involved leather trims and amalgamation of pocket squares. Pocket squares are essential men’s accessories and in trend.A pocket square is usually a hemmed piece of square fabric that is folded/scrunched and kept in the front pocket of a suit. A pocket square is usually 10” X 10’’ or 12” X 12”.

Nappa Dori Basic Wallet : Simple threefold wallet in buffalo tan. Pockets for spare change and a pen insert was provided with a magnetic closure.

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I started with trying to figure out what kind of pocket squares should the collection have. Looking at the earlier Nappa Dori patterns, I came up with the following suggestions :

I started with trying to figure out what kind of pocket squares should the collection have. It was the first time Nappa Dori was attempting to get into fabric based accessories. Taking cue from the design language of Nappa Dori, vintage patterns /pictures as well as monograms stuck as a good idea to execute on pocket squares.

1. Vintage Patterns 2. Monogrammed Patterns

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Collection 5: Pocket Squares The basic pointers that were asked to be kept in mind were the rich imagery, luxurious colors and monograms. Since the scarves were being introduced for the first time and as a part of the Nappa Dori collection, it was important to highlight the monogram pattern. As the consumer already had an association with the ND monogram that is used in the Nappa Dori products, it would have a quicker association and easier for recognition.

I tried various explorations in colors and classic shades as well as using vintage images that would go well with the language of Nappa Dori on the following pages. This was done as a small exercise and no decision regarding the finalizing of prints/patterns and production was specified during the duration of my Diploma Project.

This was followed by a round of creating artworks and it was a possibility to use color and artworks freely. The color palette was derived for the current ongoing trends in the market. For the vintage imagery, black and white prints were chosen. To bring in a colorful twist, it was thought to add colors to the images. So it was possible to use the colors in trend such as corals,mints,pinks,oranges and yellows in contrast with vintage imagery.

The Classic collection of pocket squares consists of the Nappa Dori Initials and the tools that are associated with the art of bag making. Abstract Geometric prints were tried out but not incorporated into the collection as they gave a Bohemian and structured feel which did not fit the image of Nappa Dori

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The Colors combinations that were used were classic as well as bright colors keeping in mind the current color trend.

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The Vintage collection consists of Images taken from Nappa Dori archives and a touch of color and pattern was added to them.

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Conclusion My diploma project at Nappa Dori was a major learning experience for me.

Conclusion

During the course of the Diploma Project, I had the opportunity to explore a lot of areas other than just learning about the nuances of constructing the perfect leather Bag. I was given the opportunity to actively participate in discussions regarding buying materials from vendors – the identification of proper leather, keeping a track of the leather skins in the Nappa Dori store, Identifying between the various skins and their properties, meeting vendors, making my own informed decisions about handling productions – The styles, quantities and the amount of resources to be used for each and their costing. Going sourcing personally for hardware, fabric and leather. Initially what looked like a seemingly uncomplicated project turned out to have various small and intricate details once I got to dealing with project .It is important to read between the lines of the Project brief and questioning the obvious. The process of thinking about various ideas, letting your imagination flow – the process that came out of it –

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and the restrictions that come with working within certain set boundaries – and from this, when the idea turns into a product was of immense joy and learning to me. It is not just about asking the consumer what they would like to buy, but asking them the right questions, looking at and studying the best selling styles and colors, observing the customer in process of making their buying decisions, analyzing the company’s product and styling dynamics that one can truly understand what the outcome of project would be. As rightly suggested by the coordinator of Lifestyle Accessory Design, Mr. Amresh Panigrahi, it is essential to learn and observe the company ideals and methods of working and introducing them with the ideas and methods of working that we have learnt here at NID – only then maintaining a balance between both can an equilibrium be achieved that justifies the main learning of the Diploma Project.

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Conclusion The journey I undertook at Nappa Dori, absorbing its perspective on leather and luxury, to understand how consumer research and quantitative analysis is done, became a new discovery every day. Post concept generation, the process of product development came with its own list of follow-ups. It taught me that design has a lot to do with its ability to implement. The Design Process at Nappa Dori was fluid. Developing the context for the needs of the Nappa Dori consumer was a full time process and did not follow any time-line, which was unexpected as throughout my time as a student at NID, we are taught to work within time-lines. As is the advantage of being associated with a small but increasingly expanding brand, I had the luxury of changing and reviewing my designs as per changes suggested by Nappa Dori and customer feedback.

choices regarding how to present the brand to the public, managing the raw materials, my experience at Nappa Dori has been of extensive learning. As the collections go into mass production ,getting ready to be released for the coming season, it remains to be seen how it fares for Nappa Dori. -Post the project, I see myself getting more involved in understanding the whyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and howâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s of the business of design. I find my interest in learning about how design and business go hand in hand.

Appendix

I would like to develop competency in consumer trend research and analysis and how to mold them into realistic yet unique ideas as well as to continue multi-tasking and learning more about my strengths.

My learning at Nappa Dori has been manifold. I keenly observed the way a small setup like Nappa Dori manages their resources â&#x20AC;&#x201C; be it managing time, making

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product SpecificatioN Sheet ladieS BaSic clutch- 2014

product SpecificatioN Sheet ladieS BaSic haNdBag 2014

magnet

drop is 26 cm

32 cm

lining

4 cm

10 cm

logo embossed

zipper ( 1 inch )

35 cm

8 cm

froNt

Side

BaSe

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24 cm froNt

16 cm

drop lining - 34 cms with tan edging - 2.5 cms Strap is cut edge with edge poilsh for sample,width of the leather strap is 1 mm. thread Polyester 6 ply Tan

leather portions are stitched with turned in edges and faced edge stitching

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construction detail :

12 cm

construction detail :

15 cm

38 cm

5 cm

drop length 57 cm

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product SpecificatioN Sheet corporate collectioN- 2014 laptop Side SliNg Bag

60 cm

16 c m

product SpecificatioN Sheet corporate collectioN- 2014 overNighter Bag

4 cm

11 cm

21 cm

37 cm

construction detail :

36 cm

construction detail : froNt

6ply

5 cm

logo Big

26 cm

20 cm

Side

28 cm

froNt

6ply

4 cm

8 cm

leather portions are stitched with turned in edges and faced edge stitching and hammered.

48 cm 14 cm

logo Big

14 c

2 cm

Side BacK

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BacK

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26 cm

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product SpecificatioN Sheet traveler collectioN- 2014 overNighter Bag

5 cm

aluminum slide frame 60 cms in total length. frame needs to be clad in leather.

21 cm

40 cm

logo Big

1 inch antique d-rings - 4 nos. antique studs - 8 nos. Brown Zipper 40 cm x 21 cm x 40 x 21 and 22 cms for inner pocket tetron lining in the lower compartment

construction detail :

Stitched lining - Beiege twill Strap is in tan harness leather with 50 cm drop. . thread : polyester 6ply 2ply Tan darkBrown brown

40 cm

construction detail :

Seperate lining of ikat 2 Straps is in tan harness leather - 50 cm drop. . thread : polyester 6ply 2ply tan brown

10 cm

drop is 46 cm

40 cm x 21 cm x 40 cm x21 cm all four sides

leather detail : hardware detail :

24 cm

drop is 5cm

product SpecificatioN Sheet traveler collectioN- 2014 harNeSS iKat BacKpacK

logo Big

froNt

32 cm

9 cm

antique ball bearing 21 cm

21 cm

BaSe BacK

Side

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product SpecificatioN Sheet traveler collectioN- 2014 BaSic iKat clutch

Bibliography/Webliography

11 cm

6 cm

construction detail : logo embossed

17 cm

BacK

Seperate lining of ikat thread : polyester 6 ply tan please see the size of stitches should be smallest on the sewing machine.

froNt

leather thickness is 2mm throughout. leather needs to be skivved throughly and evenly before the production. Stitching on the edges needs to be done on a cylinder machine with the side margin of 0.5 cm.

30 cm

3 cm Side

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Leatherworking of the Middle Ages - Threads in Sewing Leather Copyright © 1996, 1999, 2001 I. Marc Carlson C.E.C Working Paper - Leather Industry In India - Sumangala Damodaran and Pallavi Mansingh - 2008 http://www.cec-india.org/images/stories/pdf/CECWork_paper/Leather%20Industry%20in%20India,%20 2008.pdf - Central Research Leather Institute - http://www.clri.org/ Di[ploma Documents : Bag Collections for Benetton India, Priyanka Vacchani SIGNATURE by Hidesign , Dipen Desai Page 54 – 55 www.Hardgraft.com Page 56-57 www.Pinterest.com http://www.pinterest.com/search/pins/?q=leather%20briefcase http://www.pinterest.com/search/pins/?q=travel http://www.pinterest.com/search/pins/?q=coffee Page 83 http://www.pinterest.com/2ndcityuk/business-formal-interview-dress-code/ http://www.refinery29.com/gina-sanders http://www.nevsmodels.co.uk/models/mike-dale Page 101 www. Refinery29.com http://www.refinery29.com/2014/09/74344/fashion-week-trends-spring-2015-runway-shows?collection=222#slide Page 102 Women’s wear Daily - http://www.wwd.com/runway/resort-2015 Bag Collection for Nappa Dori | Mehak Sharma | Diploma Project | Lifestyle Accessory Design | NID 2014

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Websites Referred Page 103 www.Style.com http://www.style.com/trendsshopping/trendreport/070314_Resort_2015_Trends/#!trend-report/slideshow/go/15 http://www.dorlydesigns.com/2014/01/OurTopRunwayFashionColoursFallWinter20142015PartIV.html#.VAQNDMWSydA Page 118 www.pinterest.com/office+bags www.pinterest.com/bagpacks www.hardgraft.com www.etsy.com Page 121 www.RalphLauren.com www.ralphlauren.com/shop/index.jsp?categoryId=2885938 Page 145 shop.soffioitaly.com/ http://www.thenandnowshop.com/women/bags/shoulder.../8370/?...%20Cached www.acnestudios.com/shop/women/bags.html Page 149 www.applestore.com Page 162 www.Michaelkors.com Page 177 http://www.fubiz.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/Typographic-Pocket-Squares7.jpg

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www.Elle.com www.Ghurkha.com www.google.om www.google.imagesearch.com www.hardgraft.com www.Michaelkors.com www.NappaDori.com www.style.com www.wikipedia.com www.womensweardaily.com www.refinery29.com

Magazines Elle Elle Accessories Femina GQ Monocle Vogue

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