Mountaineering: A Selection from Stock by Meridian Rare Books

mountaineering a selection from stock

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ÂŠMeridian Rare Books 2019

mountaineering a selection from stock

Books, offprints, journals, photographs, and related printed ephemera

Welcome to this selection of stock from Meridian Rare Books. We are pleased to offer an eclectic mix of items in the current list: books, pamphlets, offprints, journals, photographs, view books, games, expedition commemorative cards, and more. These represent a selection from our inventory, and if you do not find what you are looking for here please send details and we will be happy to quote you other items from stock. In the meantime, we hope that you enjoy the current selection.

Stuart Leggatt

1. Abraham, Ashley P. Rock-Climbing in Skye. London: Longmans, Green, and Co., 1908.

£450

First edition. 8vo. pp. xxi , 330, [1, ad.]; frontis. and 30 collotype plates, 9 line diagrams, one folding map in rear pocket; some foxing, else very good in the original cloth, gilt, very slightly creased on spine. With the ownership inscription of mathematician G. H. Hardy, subsequent ownership inscription of the mathematician M. L. Cartwright January 1948; sold with a copy of Hardy’s A Mathematician’s Apology (1941 reprint). Neate A01; Perret 0002. Ashley Abraham (1876-1951), with his brother George (1872-1965) and Owen Jones (1867-99), made important climbs in the English Lake District, Wales, and Scotland. Each published a record of their climbs in these several areas, of which this is the third. This copy has a fascinating provenance: it once belonged to the prominent mathematician Godfrey H. Hardy (1877-1947), who while at New College, Oxford, supervised Mary Cartwright - who made important contributions to what became known as chaos theory - in her doctoral studies. It seems that this copy of the book passed from Hardy’s estate to Cartwright in 1948 shortly after Hardy’s death in December, 1947. Hardy’s DNB entry describes him as enjoying “walking, and gentle climbing”.

2. Agostini, Alberto M. de. Mis Viajes a la Tierra del Fuego. Milán: Prof. Giovanni de Agostini, 1929.

£850

First edition in Spanish. 4to. pp. 287; 11 coloured plates, 22 blue-tinted plates, one large folding map in pocket at rear; adhesion damage to one plate, pencil annotations to map, which also has a tear to one fold, else very good in the original blue cloth, lettered in blue, slightly toned on spine. With the ownership inscriptions of A. H. Hunter and H. W. Tilman. Not in the relevant bibliographies; see Perret 0026-0029 for other works by the author. Agostini was an Italian-born Salesian priest who, following his ordination in 1910, was sent to Argentina. Alongside his mission work he undertook many exploratory expeditions into the Andean ranges of Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego. An early account of his journeys appeared in Italy as I miei viaggi nella Terra del Fuoco (1928), and the present work seems to be a Spanish language version of the same. The book’s previous owners both have connections with the region in which Agostini worked: Hunter may be the same person on record as having donated stone implements from Tierra del Fuego to the British Museum in the 1930s; and Tilman, the well-known climber and sailor recorded his own travels in the region in his Mischief in Patagonia (1957).

3. Agostini, Alberto M. de. La Naturaleza en los Andes de la Patagonia Septentrional (Lagos Nahuel-Huapi y Esmeralda). Torino: Gros Monti & C., n.d. c. 1935. £375

?First edition. Oblong 4to. pp. 10 (text in Spanish and English); 2 maps, 50 photographic views, 2 folding panoramas; very good in original pictorial wrappers with ties, contemporary calling card paperclipped to upper wrapper, contained in the original box (slightly stained). Not in the relevant bibliographies; see Perret 0026-0029 for other works by the author. The photographs taken on expeditions to Tierra del Fuego and Patagonia were self-published by Agostini as view books, and the present example offers stunning views of Andean lakes and peaks in what is now the Nahuel National Park on the Chilean-Argentine border. We have located only one institutional copy of the book (BL; a variant edition is held by the Biblioteca Egidiana in Tolentino).

of the Belgian Alpine Club, joined the search, climbing high among the rocks in search of the King. Albert’s body was however found at the foot of the cliffs, to where he had fallen from a height. Strutt, editor of the Alpine Journal, later approached de Grunne to provide an obituary of the King for the Journal, and in these letters de Grunne explains his difficulty in doing so: the royal family sensed that it was de Grunne’s example that had fostered Albert’s interest in climbing, and de Grunne felt himself to be out of favour. In these pages de Grunne sets out his experiences of climbing with Albert, and his reasons for not writing the obituary under his own name. “I contributed to the discovery of the body and its bringing back to Brussels, so she [the Queen] cannot find evident proof of responsibility … and yet I am the one who gave to the King the taste of climbing in Belgium, taste which in the last years had become quite exaggerated and brought him to Marche les Dames”. Xavier de Grunne published in the journal Le Flambeau his account ‘La dernière journée du Roi Albert’ (1934).

5. [Alpine Club.] 1900 Winter Dinner James Bryce President in the Chair. N.p., n.d. [1900]. £45

A menu for the dinner, 8vo, pp. [4]; illustration to front page; partly split along spine, minor adhesion damage to central pages, else very good in self-wrappers. The Alpine Club’s 1900 Winter Dinner was held at the Whitehall Rooms in the Hôtel Métropole, Tuesday December 18th, 1900. The front cover illustration reproduces a pen and ink view of Mount Fuji. The central pages list the wines, menu, and toasts made on the occasion.

6. [Alpine Club.] The Alpine Club Centenary Dinner 1857-1957 . . . November 6th, 1957, Dorchester Hotel, London, W.1. N.p., n.d. [1957]. £35

4to. pp. 8; very good in original stiff pictorial card wrappers with, loosely inserted, the table plan for the dinner. A menu printed for the dinner, at which were present Lord Hunt, and many luminaries of the climbing world - Tenzing, Noyce, Desio, Franco, Francis Farquhar, James Wordie, Houston, Longstaff, Winthrop Young, Gavin de Beer, Howard-Bury, Odell, Rebuffat, Kenneth Mason, and many more.

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4. [Albert I of Belgium]. Two letters from Xavier de Grunne, head of the Club Alpine Belge and a member of the search for Albert I of Belgium, to E. L. Strutt, the first dated Gd. Hotel du Planet, Argentière, Savoie, 14 Août 1934 & the second undated. £250

4to. pp. 7 & 6, the first in French, the second mostly in English but concluding in French; folded, else very good, indexed to first page of each in blue pencil. In February 1934, Albert I of the Belgians, a well-known and experienced alpinist, travelled by car to Marches-les-Dames, in the Ardennes region of Belgium, to climb alone on the Roche du Vieux Bon Dieu. When he failed to meet at the appointed time with his driver, the alarm was raised, and a search party sent out. Count Xavier de Grunne, who had led the Belgian scientific expedition to Ruwenzori - see item 53 - and was at the time head

7. [Alps - Monte Rosa.] The Annual Register, or a View of the History, Politics, and Literatures, of the Year 1823. London: Printed for Baldwin, Craddock, and Joy, 1824. £125 First edition. 8vo. pp. xiv, 254, 256, 337, [xiv]; bookplate of Cecil George Savile Foljambe (First Earl of Liverpool), Coleg Harleg inkstamp to flyleaf, occasional embrowning, else very good in the contemporary full calf, contrasting label, rubbed, joints split at head, good. This volume of The Annual Register contains an early English-language notice of the “Ascent of Mount Rosa” by Joseph Zumstein and Johann Vincent. Their ascents in 1819 and 1820 of the Zumsteinspitze and the Vincent Pyramid were the first ascents on Monte Rosa.

7 8. Archbald, John E. The Himalayas - Winter 1945. N.p., n.d. ?1945.

£375

Small square 12mo. pp. 17, printed on photo stock to rectos only; 25 small photo. illusts., including one panorama; pp. 7 & 8 bound in the incorrect order, ink note to this effect at front, very good in original wraparound photographic wrappers, somewhat curled, minor fraying to extremities. This is an unrecorded photographic account of the author’s time “as a ski-instructor at the rehabilitation Aircrew Mountain Centre in Kashmir . . . to make an instructional film of the sport” (p. 1). The centre had been established in August 1944, under the superintendence of A. J. M. Smyth, at Ganderbal on the Sind river, with a camp at Sonamarg; it offered a base for recreational activities such as ski-ing and climbing to RAF airmen on service in India and Burma. Among those employed to assist in these activities were Wilfrid Noyce (later a member of the 1953 Everest expedition) and R. L. Holdsworth (a member of the successful 1930 Kamet expedition). Archbald relates in the present work his journey from Delhi to the Centre, and the month he spent there in January to February 1945. He mentions his meeting with Smyth, and ski-ing lessons and excusions with Holdsworth (he does not seem to have met Noyce). A ski-ascent of Aphawat (“Aphewatt”), and tours of other nearby peaks, form the body of the narrative, which is fully illustrated by the author’s photographs. Archbald himself (1905-1985) was an associate of the Royal Photographic Society, and active from the 1930s as a photographer. We can find no other example of his book, though other accounts of the Aircrew Mountain Centre appeared in Noyce’s Mountains and Men (1947), and articles by Smyth and J. A. Jackson (in the Alpine Journal and Himalayan Journal respectively), and A Climber’s Guide to Sonamarg records some of the climbs made at this time. The Centre closed in 1946.

9. Baker, G. P. Mountaineering Memories of the Past. Privately Printed, 1951. £125 [Second edition.] 8vo. pp. 62; port. frontis., 6 leaves of illusts.; minor spotting, slight age-toning to margins of illusts., else very good in original cloth, in d.-w. which is browned on spine, and chipped with loss to upper panel. Neate B14; Perret 0229. The author’s recollections of climbs from 1878 to 1911: Ararat, the Alps (including the Graians with Yeld), Norway (with Slingsby), the Eastern Caucasus (again with Yeld), the Canadian Rockies (with Norman Collie). He gave up serious climbing in 1911, and subsequently pursued his interest in plant hunting. Baker (1856-1951) first published his book in 1942, of which the present version is effectively a reissue.

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10. Ball, John. Hints and Notes practical and scientific for Travellers in the Alps. Being a revision of the General Introduction to the ‘Alpine Guide’. A new edition prepared on behalf of the Alpine Club by W. A. B. Coolidge. London: Longmans, Green, and Co., 1899. £95

First edition thus. 8vo. pp. clxiv, [3, ads.]; very good in the original printed boards, bumped to head and tail of spine. Neate B24; Perret 1108; Moss et al. AL034. The 1863 edition of Ball’s A Guide to the Western Alps, the first of the Alpine Guides that appeared under his name, contained a long introduction which offered general hints and notes for climbers. In 1864 it was published separately as Introduction to the Alpine Guide. In the 1890s, W. A. B. Coolidge undertook a revision of the Ball guides for the Alpine Club, and heavily revised the Introduction, which was published in the present form, now uncommon.

11. Blackwell’s Mountaineering Library. A complete set of all six titles. Oxford: Basil Blackwell, 1936-41. £225

First editions thus, comprising: Leslie Stephen The Playground of the Alps (1936, pp. xxi, 243, illusts.); A. F. Mummery My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus (1936, pp. xxiii, 256, illusts.); Alfred Wills Wanderings among the high Alps (1937, pp. ix, 235, illusts.); Douglas W. Freshfield The Italian Alps (1937, pp. viii, 246, illusts.); A. W. Moore The Alps in 1864 (1939, 2 vols., pp. xxvii, 246 & xi, 247-524, illusts., map endpapers); W. Cecil Slingsby Norway The Northern Playground (1941, pp. xxvii, 227, illusts., two maps). Each with previous owner’s inscription to flyleaf, some spotting at front and rear, original cloth in d.-w.’s which are chipped to extremities and browned on spines. Blackwell’s Mountaineering Library, edited by H. E. G. Tyndale, reissued “a number of our alpine classics” (Introduction). The books feature new photographic illustrations, and an introduction to the series by Geoffrey Winthrop Young (who also provides a biographical notice of Slingsby).

12. Bonatti, Walter. The Great Days. London: Victor Gollancz Ltd., 1974. £100

First UK edition. 8vo. pp. 189; photo. illusts.; near-fine in original cloth, in d.-w. (very slightly rubbed). Neate B124. Bonatti’s second volume of autobiography relates his experiences of the disaster on the Central Pillar of Frêney in the Mont Blanc group, and his solo climb of the Matterhorn in 1965 (following which he retired from professional climbing).

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14 13. Bonington, Chris. The Next Horizon. Autobiography II. London: Victor Gollancz Ltd., 1973. £15

First edition. 8vo. pp. 304; photo. illusts., sketch maps; very good in the original cloth, in d.-w. which is somewhat crinkled. Neate B134; Yakushi B461. After his first volume of autobiography, I Chose to Climb, Bonington’s second volume contains details of expeditions to Patagonia, the Alps (the Eiger), Annapurna, the Blue Nile, and of his time among the Eskimo of northern Canada.

14. Bonington, Chris. Kongur China’s Elusive Summit. London: Hodder and Stoughton, [1982]. £50

First edition. 8vo. pp. 224; numerous photo. illusts., sketch maps; very good in the original cloth, d.-w., slightly creased. Inscribed on the half-title: “For Andre All the best Chris Bonington”. Neate B133; Yakushi B466a. A reconnaissance expedition led by Michael Ward visited Kongur in 1980, in preparation for a summit attempt in 1981, successfully attained by the climbing party - Bonington, Alan Rouse, Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker.

15. Bourrit, Marc-Theodore. A Relation of a Journey to the Glaciers, in the Dutchy of Savoy. Norwich: Printed by Richard Beatniffe, 1775. £1,250

First edition. 8vo. pp. [48, inc. engraved dedication], xxi, 264, [2]; 3 engraved plates; slight spotting to engraved plates, else very good with the bookplates of George White and Oscar V. Viney in contemporary full calf, recently and neatly rebacked to style, gilt motifs to spine, contrasting lettering piece, minor wear to corners. Wäber II.66; Neate B142; Perret 0656. Translated from the Swiss edition of 1773. By profession the Precentor of Geneva cathedral, Bourrit (1739-1819) devoted the greater part of his time to travelling in the Alps, particularly in the Chamonix region. Despite several attempts, he never succeeded in attaining the summit of Mont Blanc. His illustrations appeared in his own works and also in those of others, notably in de Saussure’s Voyages dans les Alpes which, ironically, relates de Saussure’s own successful ascent of Mont Blanc. The present work narrates a journey from Geneva to Chamonix, with an ascent of the Buet. This edition includes among the subscribers listed in the preliminary pages Samuel Johnson, Charles Burney and David Garrick.

16. Bonus, Arthur Rivers. Where Hannibal Passed. London: Methuen & Co., Ltd., [1925]. £35

First edition. 8vo. pp. viii, 88, 8 (pubs. list); photo. plates, one leaf of sketch maps; some browning or spotting, else good in original cloth, gilt, slightly darkened on spine. An attempt to determine the path of Hannibal’s army across the Alps. The book is relatively uncommon.

17. [Brown, T. Graham.] ‘Breithorn’ [so captioned to rear].

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£75

An original b&w photograph by Graham Brown, approx. 8 1/2 x 6 1/2” (216 x 166 mm.), captioned to rear ‘Breithorn from Teufelsgrat of Taeschhorn taken from the first snow point a little E. of Gap 3662 m near foot of Arête & W of Kienhorn’, signed by Graham Brown and dated 26.viii.1930, somewhat creased with slight damage to image, closed tear to lower margin. Thomas Graham Brown was perhaps Britain’s top climber of the 1920s and 1930s. He made three new ascents on Mont Blanc, the first two with Frank Smythe, the last with guides Alexander Graven and Alfred Aufdenblatten. This photograph dates from the years in which he made his greatest climbs.

18. Browning, Oscar. Memories of Sixty Years at Eton Cambridge and Elsewhere. London: John Lane the Bodley Head, 1910. £20

Second edition. 8vo. pp. xi, 364, [8, pubs. ads.]; 5 plates; some browning at front and rear, good in original cloth, heavily sunned on spine. Neate B194. Browning (1837-1923) was a member of the Alpine Club, though ceased climbing in 1878. His memoirs are interspersed with details of his climbing experiences in the Alps.

19. Bryant, L. V. (“Dan”). New Zealanders and Everest … With a Foreword by Sir Edmund Hillary. Wellington: A.H. & A.W. Reed, [1953]. £175

First edition. 8vo. pp. 48; 20 photo. illusts., one sketch map; very good in the original printed wrappers, slightly rubbed. Signed to the title-page by Ed Hillary. Ownership inscription of Michael Ward to title-page (Michael Ward was the doctor on the 1953 Everest Expedition). Neate B201; Yakushi B599; S & B B46; not in Perret. Bryant took part with Shipton on the 1935 Everest reconnaissance. The present work discusses the contribution of New Zealanders to mountaineering, notably on Everest, with Hillary’s successful ascent. Bryant devotes a chapter to the 1935 reconnaissance.

20. Bullock, Herbert S. ‘Climbing in the Alps.’ An article in Home Words for Heart & Hearth , ed. Charles Bullock, pp. 160-1 & 185-7. London: “Home Words” Publishing Office, 1892. £20

First edition. Small 4to. pp. iv, 284, [48, Beccles Parish Church Magazine]; illusts. to Bullock’s article and to other articles throughout; very good in the original decorative cloth, gilt, rubbed. Herbert Somerset Bullock (1871-1963) became a member of the Alpine Club in 1897, though as this article shows, he was climbing before his membership began, often in tandem with Walter Weston, Longstaff, and even Aleister Crowley. His article, written for the religious journal of which his father was editor, describes an ascent of the Dent du Midi.

21. Cassin, Riccardo. 50 Years of Alpinism. London: Diadem Books; Seattle: The Mountaineers, [1981]. £25

First edition. 8vo. pp. 207; photo. illusts.; very good in original cloth, d.-w. Neate C21; Yakushi C76b; Perret 0861. “Cassin is one of the finest twentieth century mountaineers. His Alpine conquests included two fine Dolomite ascents and the Walker Spur on the Grandes Jorasses. He has also led important expeditions to the Himalayas, Mt. McKinley, and Peru” (Neate).

22. [Caucasus.] Souvenir du Caucase [cover title]. L. Alexandrovich Kislovodsk, n.d. c. 1910.

£350

Oblong 8vo. pp. 100, each with a photographic illustration captioned beneath in Russian; somewhat browned and soiled, pencilled translation into German of first few illustrations, gift inscription in German to prelims. (dated 1913), good in the original cloth boards, coloured photo. illust. onlaid to upper board, somewhat rubbed and soiled. This is a view book of the Caucasus, probably dating from the early twentieth century. The images show scenes in various towns (Kizlowodzk, Pyatigorsk, Essentuki, Zheleznovodsk, etc.), the Sukhumi Military Road running from Abkhazia, and views of various mountains including Elbrus. We have not located any institutional copies of the work. The publisher also produced postcards of the region.

23. Chambers, William and Robert, eds. Chambers’s Edinburgh Journal, vol. VII. Edinburgh: William and Robert Chambers, 1847. £20

25. [Compton, E. T.] P. A. Tallantire, ed. Edward Theodore Compton (1849-1921). Mountaineer and Mountain Painter. [Printed by Titus Wilson, Kendal, 1996]. £20

24. Climbers’ Club. Rules … List of Members, and Officers, 1903. N.p., n.d. [1903]. £75

26. Conway, W. M.; August Lorria, ed. Die Penninischen Alpen. Ein Führer für Bergsteiger durch das Gebiet der Penninishen Alpen zwischen Simplon und Grossen St. Bernhard … bearbeitet und herausgegeben von August Lorria. Zürich: Orell Füssli & Co., 1891. £250

First edition. Tall 8vo. pp. vii, 416; good in the original cloth, gilt, minor wear to extremities. This volume of Chambers’s Journal contains two mountaineering articles: ‘Narrative of the Ascent of Mount Etna’ (pp. 188-191) and ‘Passage of the Col du Géant’ (pp. 205-7).

First edition. 8vo. pp. 19; good in the original printed wrappers, somewhat soiled, central vertical crease throughtout, fore-edge of upper wrapper and prelims. slightly chipped. An early publication for the Club, which was founded in 1898. Five pages of Rules are followed by lists of Officers and members. These include C. E. Mathews, the Club’s first president, George and Ashley Abraham, E. A. Baker, Oscar Eckenstein, T. G. Longstaff, W. Rickmer Rickmers, W. C. Slingsby, Sydney Spencer, George Wherry, and Geoffrey Winthrop Young.

First edition. 8vo. pp. [vi], 93; illusts.; fine in the original stiff card wrappers. A useful overview of the work of Compton, illustrator of many Alpine titles and painter.

First edition. 8vo. pp. [vii], 204; slight foxing, else very good in the original cloth, gilt, a little soiled. Wäber II.78; not in Perret. This is effectively the German edition and revision of Conway’s Zermatt Pocket Book, with a statement in English to that effect by Conway at the start of the book. Conway’s book was the first ever guide book to the Alps. Lorria was later also the author, with Oscar Eckenstein, of the Alpine Portfolio.

27. Conway, William Martin. Climbing and Exploration in the Karakoram-Himalayas. London: T. Fisher Unwin, 1894.

£1,750

First edition. 8vo. 2 vols. (Text/Scientific Reports). Text: pp. xxviii, 709, [1, ad.], with numerous illusts. from drawings by A.D. McCormick, one folding map; Reports: pp. viii, 127, with a photogravure frontis. of Conway, and two maps contained in pockets at front and rear; inner hinges of text vol. cracked, near-fine in the original cloth, gilt, pictorial vignettes to upper covers and spine of text vol., t.e.g., small ink spot to upper cover of Reports vol. Neate C103; Yakushi C336a; Cox Classics in the Literature of Mountaineering 43; Perret 1088. “This work describes the first major British expedition to explore and climb in the Himalaya, one of the greatest of all mountain explorations. It accomplished a number of firsts and laid the groundwork for later explorations. Conway, who organized and led the expedition, climbed a 23,000-foot peak and traversed three great glaciers - the Hispar, Biafo, and Baltoro…” (Cox). The expedition included Charles G. Bruce, later to lead the 1922 Everest climbing expedition. The second volume of scientific reports, often lacking, contains essays on geological, zoological, botanical and medical aspects of the expedition by A. G. Durand, Conway, Bonney, and others.

28. Conway, William Martin. ‘Exploration in the Mustagh Mountains.’ An offprint from The Geographical Journal, October, 1893. £95 First separate edition. 8vo. pp. 15; occasional foxing, good in the original printed wrappers, which are a little creased and soiled, with, loosely inserted, a leaf from the Daily Graphic for November 3, 1892, with an illustration and article concerning Conway’s expedition. Conway’s article appeared a year before his book of the expedition to the Karakoram (see previous item).

29. Conway, William Martin. Aconcagua and Tierra del Fuego. A Book of Climbing, Travel and Exploration. London: Cassell & Co., [1902]. £375 First edition. 8vo. pp. xii, 252, 8 (pubs. ads); photo. illusts., doublemap; slight browning to endpapers, else very good in the original cloth, gilt, discoloured to fore-edges of boards, with the pencilled ownership inscription to flyleaf of N. E. Odell. Neate C99; Perret 1092. Aconcagua, the highest mountain in the world outside of Asia, was first climbed by Mattias Zurbriggen in 1897, on the expedition led by Edward FitzGerald. A year later, the ascent was made by

30 - 32 - 33 Conway, who went on to attempt Sarmiento in Tierra del Fuego, the twin peaks of which were not climbed for another fifty years. The expedition marked the end of Conway’s career as a serious mountaineer, and he bids farewell to this period of his life in the Preface to the book. This copy formerly belonged to the climber and geologist Noel Odell, member of several expeditions to the Arctic and to Everest, and famed for being the last man to see Mallory and Irvine alive.

30. Conway, William Martin. The Alps from End to End . . . With a chapter by the Rev. W. A. Coolidge. London: Thomas Nelson and Sons, Ltd., n.d. c. 1916. £25

Reprint of the Nelson edition of 1910. 8vo. pp. 381; very good in the original cloth, in the original dust-wrapper with mounted illust. to front panel and price labels on spine. This pocket edition of Conway’s book, in common with similar pocket versions, dispensed with the illustrations of the original. This copy seems to be an undated reprint of the 1910 edition, though is unusual in having its original dust-wrapper (which has a reference to forthcoming titles available in 1917).

31. Conway, William Martin. Mountain Memories. A Pilgrimage of Romance. London: Cassell and Company, Ltd, 1920. £95

First edition. 8vo. pp. ix; 282; 16 b&w photos. illust.; a little spotting, else good in the original cloth, which is somewhat mottled and discoloured, in the original d.-w., which is rubbed, stained to foot of spine and adjacent area of rear panel. Neate C106; Yakushi C337. Conway’s recollections of a career in climbing includes details of his time in the Alps, the Karakoram, on Spitsbergen, and in the Andes. Uncommon in the dust-wrapper.

32. Conway, William Martin. Episodes in a Varied Life. London: Country Life Ltd., [1932]. £75

First edition. 8vo. pp. viii, 276; photo. plates; very good in the original blue cloth, slightly soiled, in original d.-w. with portrait of Conway, frayed with loss to extremities. Neate C104; not in Yakushi. Conway led expeditions to Spitsbergen and the Himalayas, and made many ascents in the Alps, Andes, and other ranges. His autobiography touches on all of his explorations, interspersed with his career in art. Copies in the dust-wrapper are uncommon.

33. [Conway, William Martin.] Joan Evans. The Conways. A History of Three Generations. London: Museum Press Limited, 1966. £15

First edition. 8vo. pp. 308; photo. illusts.; very good in original cloth, in d.-w. which is rubbed and sunned on spine. Neate E29. A biography of Conway, incorporating also the lives of his father and of his daughter.

34. Coolidge, W. A. B. Walks and Excursions in the Valley of Grindelwald. Grindelwald: Fritz Bernet, 1929. £15

35. Copeland, F. S. Beautiful Mountains. In the Jugoslav Alps. Split: The Jugoslav Bureau, n.d. c. 1931. £15

First edition. 8vo. pp. 120; woodcut illusts.; good in the original cloth, rubbed. Neate C133. Fanny Copeland was “a Scottish climber who spent forty years in Jugoslavia, including the Nazi occupation. She established a record by climbing Triglav at the age of eighty-six” (Neate).

36. Croft, Andrew. A Talent for Adventure. The S.P.A. Ltd., [1991]. £50

First edition. 8vo. pp. 286; illusts., sketch maps; very good in the original cloth, d.-w. (slightly creased). Signed by the author to the title-page. Andrew Croft took part in several Polar expeditions, notably the British Trans-Greenland Expedition in 1934, when he and Martin Lindsay made what remains the longest self-supporting dog-sledge journey on record (1080 miles). He spent time in the North-West Frontier in 1946-7 during partition, and devotes a brief chapter to this period.

37. [Darjeeling.] Some Views and Studies of Darjeeling, India. Calcutta: Harrington and Co., photographers, n.d. c. 1900. £75

Oblong 8vo. 6ll. with 12 captioned photo. illusts., many translated into French, ownership inscription to front blank (“Neai 1900”), very good in original printed wrappers, staples slightly rusty. This small souvenir booklet contains six views of Darjeeling (including one that shows Kangchenjunga), and six images of local people (Tibetan, Nepalis, Bhootias). One of the views, showing “Chowrusta”, has been marked with a cross by the annotator, who alongside has written “Notre maison” (‘Our house’).

Third edition. 8vo. pp. 64; illusts., folding map at rear; age-toning to text, good in the original printed wrappers, slightly chipped and browned, previous owner’s inscription to upper wrapper. Neate C130; Perret 1100; Moss et al. AL037a. Coolidge’s guide first appeared in 1900, as a “supplement to the ordinary Swiss Guidebooks”. French, German, and Italian editions were also published.

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38. Desor, E. Nouvelles Excursions et Séjours dans les Glaciers et les Hautes Régions des Alpes, de M. Agassiz et de ses compagnons de voyage. Neuchatel: Kissling; Paris: Maison, 1845 £450 First edition. 12mo. pp. viii, 266; folding map frontis. and two other folding plates; minor foxing, else very good in modern cloth with leather lettering piece to spine, original wrapper mounted to upper cover. Wäber 77; Perret 1314. Edouard Desor (1811-1882) met Louis Agassiz at Neuchâtel in 1837, and joined him on visits to the Alps to study glaciers and other phenomena. He summarised their travels between 1838 and 1843 in Excursions et Séjours dans les Glaciers (1844). The present work is a continuation of that book, with accounts of their scientific work in 1844, and a description of Desor’s 1844 ascent of the Rosenhorn summit of the Wetterhorn.

39. Desor, E. Agassiz’ und seiner Freunde geologische Alpenreisen in der Schweiz, Savoyen und Piemont. Unter Agassiz’, Studer’s und Carl Vogt’s Mitwirkung verfaßt von E. Desor. Ed. Dr. Carl Vogt. Frankfurt am Main: Literarische Anstalt, 1847. £275

Second edition. 8vo. pp. xxxvi, 672; 2 plates of specimens, one plan and one folding geological map; very good in contemporary half calf, gilt, book label of the Library of Uppsala University to front pastedown, a little faded and scuffed on spine. Wäber I.77; Perret 4495 (“Rare”). Carl Vogt (1817-1895) worked with Louis Agassiz and Edouard Desor in their researches into palæontology and glacial phenomena in the Alps. In 1844 Vogt edited the German edition of Desor’s Excursions et Séjours dans les Glaciers of that year. He expanded it in this second edition three years later to include the journeys made in 1844 and described by Desor in his Nouvelles Excursions (see previous item). The book includes a preliminary overview of glaciology by Bernhard Studer, and a description by Vogt himself of the chief Alpine mountain groups.

8 40. [Drummond, I. M..] Sophie Bryant, D.Sc., Litt.D. 1850-1922. For Private Circulation, n.d. [1922]. £50

First edition. Square 8vo. pp. 71, [1]; two port. plates; bumped to lower outer corners, else very good in the original printed stiff wrappers, small puncture mark to front board. Bryant (née Willock), like her father William Willock, followed a career as a mathematician, and was one of the first women to gain a degree in the subject at the University of London after it opened its degree courses to women. She also enjoyed outdoor pursuits, and twice climbed the Matterhorn. She died in 1922 as the result of a hiking accident in the Alps. The present memorial volume makes only the odd passing reference to her climbing interests.

41. Dunsheath, Joyce, & Eleanor Baillie. Afghan Quest. The Story of their Abinger Afghanistan Expedition 1960. London: George G. Harrap & Co. Ltd., [1961]. £15

First edition. 8vo. pp. 239; illusts., one sketch map; very good in the original cloth, in d.-w. which is somewhat frayed to extremities. Neate D56. The authors’ account of their attempt on Mir Samir in the Hindu Kush.

42. Eastwood, Frank. Guide to the Mulanje Massif. [Johannesburg:] Lorton Publications, [1979]. £25

First ediiton. 8vo. pp. 146; photo. illusts., sketch maps, 7 extending route maps; good in the original cloth, rubbed. Not in Neate. The Mulanje Massif lies in southern Malawi, close to the border with Mozambique. The author, a member of the Mulanje Mountaineering Club, compiled this guide with the assistance of fellow club members.

42 - 49

46 45 43. [Everest 1933] ‘Sum-It’ Card Game. Leeds: “Sum-It” Card Games Ltd., n.d. c. 1930s. £75

A complete pack of 60 ‘Sum-It’ playing cards, each with a stylised image of an aeroplane flying above a mountain to verso, contained with the original 16pp. rule-book in the original packet with similar image to front of box, slight soiling to cards, minor wear to box. Le Montagna per Gioco 36. This card game was created in the wake of the first flight over Everest in 1933. The Houston-Mount Everest expedition flew a Westland PV3 over Everest, piloted by David McIntyre and Douglas Douglas-Hamilton.

44. [Everest 1975. Poster.] South West Face. British Everest Expedition 1975. Designed by Turner Wilks Dandridge, 1975. £45

A large poster, approx. 840 x 590mm, portraits of expedition members to lower left, 4 centrally placed maps or plans, two showing proposed routes up Everest, coloured illustrations of equipment and provisions, all interspersed with text; somewhat creased, soiled to verso, else good. This poster, issued by expedition sponsors Barclays Bank, offers information about the proposed expedition, which successfully saw Dougal Haston and Doug Scott, and Peter Boardman and Sherpa Pertemba, reach the summit. Mick Burke failed to return from his summit attempt.

45. [Everest. Map.] ‘Sagarmatha [in Nepali]. Mount Everest. Qomolangma [in Chinese].’ A large folding map issued as a Supplement to the National Geographic Magazine, November 1988. £50

A large folding coloured map, scale 1:50 000, approx. 91.5 x 58.5cm.), with a second map to the verso “High Himalaya. A Computer-Generated

Landscape Portrait”, folding into a small pamphlet, slight soiling to one fold at head of map, offered without the original issue of the National Geographic. Signed by the cartographer Bradford Washburn to lower right of the image. Yakushi m185; S & B W07. Prepared as a joint research project between the National Geographic Society, the Henry S. Hall jr. Everest Fund of the Museum of Science, Boston, the Nepalese Government and China’s National Bureau of Surveying and Mapping, this excellent map was compiled by Bradford Washburn and others using photographic and similar data taken by aerial survey and satellite tracking.

46. Finch, George Ingle. Der Kampf um den Everest. Leipzig: F.A.Brockhaus, 1925. £250

First edition. 8vo. pp. 206, [2, ads.]; decorated endpapers with mountaincloud pattern; 2 drawings in text, 88 photo. illusts., frontis. with tissue overlay, 3 sketch maps; very good in the original sandy cloth, lettered and bordered in green and blue, in the original pictorial d.j., which is slightly chipped. Ownership inscription of Michael Ward to flyleaf (doctor on the 1953 Everest Expedition). Yakushi F76; S & B F10; not in Perret. Finch was a key member of the 1922 British Mount Everest Expedition, during which he and Geoffrey Bruce climbed to 27,300ft (8,321 m), a height greater than any previously achieved. Bi-lingual in English and German, Finch wrote the present overview in German of the 1920s Everest expeditions, with chapters on preliminary exploration and preparation. The book is illustrated with Finch’s photographs not published elsewhere. His book was not translated into English until 2008.

47. Fox, Joseph H. Holiday Memories. Privately printed by L. Tozer & Co., Wellington, Somerset, 1908.

£575

First edition. 4to. pp. [vi], 147; heavy embrowning to free endpapers, else very good in original blue cloth, lettered to upper cover, t.e.g, a little soiled and with minor wear to head and tail of spine. Inscribed on flyleaf “To my dear Wife from J. H. F.”. Neate F50; Perret 1729; Alpine Club Library Catalogue 1982 p. 116; Meckly A Bibliography of Privately Printed Mountaineering Books A Revision (AJ vol.96, 340, p. 200). Fox was a leading public figure and businessman in Somerset, in addition to being the brother-in-law of the notable alpinist Francis Fox Tuckett. The present work, dedicated to the Alpine guide François Joseph Devouassoud, offers an important record of the Golden Age of Alpine mountaineering. Fox first visited the Alps with Tuckett in the summer of 1853, but they undertook serious climbs only during a second visit in 1856 when they visited Chamonix and Zermatt. Fox returned in 1859 and with the help of guides such as the Laueners and Benner ascended the Breithorn and Monte Rosa. In 1863 Fox records his visit to the Dolomites with Tuckett, who had made in the early 1860s first ascents in the region, though neither then nor in later visits did Fox undertake any difficult climbs. Two years later Fox attempted the Eiger with Tuckett; his report of this quotes extensively from Tuckett’s article for the Alpine Journal. Fox also records his further visits to the Alps and the Dolomites over the next 35 or so years, with a visit to Norway in 1896. Holiday Memories records also Fox’s meetings with other significant figures of the early mountaineering community, such as John Tyndale, C. E. Mathews, Horace Walker, and others.

48. Frith, Henry. Ascents and Adventures. A Record of Hardy Mountaineering in Every Quarter of the Globe. London: George Routledge and Sons, 1884. £50

First edition. 8vo. pp. x, 320; wood-engs. to text inc. some full-page; minor spotting, prize bookplate to front pastedown, very good in the original pictorial cloth, gilt, a little creased on spine. Neate F77. The author dedicates the book to his brother “in remembrance of many Alpine scrambles”, and his Preface refers to “a few modest ascents in Switzerland”, but the book draws on accounts by notable mountaineers,

50. Ghiglione, Piero. Dalle Ande all’Himálaya. Turin: Montes, [1936].

with chapters on Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn, the Pyrenees, the Caucasus, the Himalaya, North and South America, and brief references in the concluding chapter to Australia and New Zealand.

49. Fryxell, Fritiof. The Tetons. Interpretations of a Mountain Landscape. Berkeley & Los Angeles: University of California Press, 1946. £15

Second printing. 8vo. pp. xiv, 77; photo. illusts., one folding map; mild age-toning, good in the original cloth, in d.-w. which is browned and frayed on spine. Neate F79. The dust-wrapper describes this work as a guide for visitors to the Grand Teton National Park in Wyoming. Fryxell was a geologist and park ranger who made many first ascents in the Tetons.

£675

First edition, one of 500 copies. 8vo. pp. xvi, 287; photo. illusts., one coloured plate, sketch maps to text; very good in the original boards, in the original d.-w., bumped to extremities. A presentation copy, inscribed and signed by the author to G. O. Dyhrenfurth, dated Torino 1940. Yakushi G92. The author’s recollection of his climbs in the Andes, of his time with the International Himalayan Expedition led by Günter Dyhrenfurth in 1934, and of his travels in Kashmir and Ladakh.

54 - 51 - 55 51. Gillman, Peter & Dougal Haston. Eiger Direct. London: Collins, 1966. £75

First edition. 8vo. pp. 183; photo. illusts.; inkstamps to front endpapers, else VG in the original cloth, d.j. which is slightly frayed. Neate G28; Perret 2180. Haston took part in the attempt to climb the north face of the Eiger by the direct route, in a team that included the charismatic John Harlin. Gillman followed the climb as official reporter, and Bonington was the official photographer.

52. Godley, A. D. Reliquiae. Ed. C. R. L. Fletcher. Oxford University Press, 1926. £45

First edition. 8vo. 2 vols. pp. xx, 360 & vii, 369; port. frontis. to vol. I, reproduction of letter frontis. to vol. II; very good in the original cloth, paper labels to spines, rubbed to extremities, spare paper label tipped in at rear of each vol. Neate G32. Alfred Denis Godley (1856-1925) “was a scholar, poet and mountaineer, whose mischievous humour showed through his otherwise mournful expression. The second volume of his memoirs includes reprints [pp. 45-105] from his pieces in the Alpine Journal. He also contributed to the Climbers’ Club Journal” (Neate).

53. Grunne, Cte. Xavier de, et al. Ver les Glaciers de l’Equator. Le Ruwenzori Mission Scientifique Belge 1932. Bruxelles: R. Dupriez, 1937. £150

First edition. 8vo. pp. 300; 8 plates, b & w illusts., 17 maps inc. four folding in rear pocket; very good in the original printed wrappers, a little creased on spine, in ?original slipcase which has been taped along the edges. Perret 2073 (“Beau livre”). The Belgian Scientific Expedition to Ruwenzori consisted of two parties, a scientific group that included a botanist, zoologist and surveyors, and a party of mountaineers led by Count Xavier de Grunne. The latter ascended several of the peaks, including two first ascents (of Kraepelin and Albert).

57. [Herford, SIegfried.] Keith Treacher. Siegfried Herford. An Edwardian Rock-Climber. The Ernest Press, [2000]. £35

First edition. 8vo. pp. 168; illusts.; age-toning to margins, very good in the original cloth, d.-w., which is marginally faded. Inscribed by the author to half-title, and with an accompanying author’s letter to Mike [Taylor] about an earlier draft of the book. Herford (1891-1916) “was undoubtedly the finest British rock-climber operating immediately prior to the First World War” (Introduction); he died in the trenches in 1916. This copy was presented by the author to Michael Taylor, who is acknowledged in the book for his help with its redrafting.

58. Herrligkoffer, K. M. Mount Everest Thron der Götter. München/ Wien: Langen Müller, [1982]. £225

First edition. 4to. pp. 318, [2, ads.]; photo. illusts., map endpapers; some toning to margins, else good in the original cloth, d.-w. Signed to halftitle by the author and 12 others, including Erhard Loretan (1959-2011), Norbert Joos (1960-2016), Marcel Rüedi (1938-1986), Schorsch Ritter, Peter Wörgötter, Franz Breitenbaumer, and Diego Wellig. Yakushi H275; S&B H12. Herrligkoffer’s overview of expeditions to Everest first appeared in 1972, and was expanded in 1982 to include subsequent expeditions. This copy is signed by the author himself, as well as a number of climbers who made important ascents in the Himalayas: Loretan (3rd person to climb all fourteen 8000+m peaks, including a speed climb of Everest in 1986), Joos (who completed thirteen, all but Everest), Rüedi (who completed ten, and was the first Swiss to climb Cho Oyu), and Ritter (Everest 1978, Kangchenjunga 1980 and Nanga Parbat 1982).

54. Habeler, Peter. Everest: Impossible Victory. London: Arlington Books, [1979]. £25

First UK edition. 8vo. pp. 223; coloured and b & w photo. illusts.; very good in the original cloth, d.-w. Neate H01; Yakushi H08b; Perret 2131; S & B H01. Translated from the previous year’s first German edition by David Heald, this is Habeler’s account of his ascent of Everest, with Reinhold Messner, the first to be made without oxygen, and with a speed that “astonished the world, especially the Sherpa community who doubted whether anyone could outperform them at altitude” (Richard Sale On Top of the World, p. 58).

55. Haston, Dougal. In High Places. London: Cassell, [1972].

£45

First edition. 8vo. pp. [vii], 168; photo. illusts.; very good in original cloth, d.-w. (slightly chipped). Neate H52; Yakushi H132a; Salkeld & Boyle H06. Haston’s autobiography tells of his ascent of the Eiger’s North face, the ascent of Annapurna with Don Whillans, and of his experiences with the 1971 International Everest Expedition. Haston later scaled Everest by the South west Face in 1975. He died in 1977 in an avalanche while skiing at Leysin.

56 - 57

56. Heckmair, Anderl. My Life as a Mountaineer. London: Gollancz, 1975. £75

First English edition. 8vo. pp. 224; photo. illusts.; very good in original cloth, d.-w. Neate H65; Perret 2190. Heckmair, with a group that included Heinrich Harrer, climbed the Eiger’s north face in 1938 (also described in Harrer’s The White Spider). Heckmair relates his experience of the climb, and his life as a guide in the Alps, Andes and Karakoram.

63 - 65

59 - 60 - 61 - 62

64. Holbrook, Frederick. Through Turkestan and the Caucasus. A Letter from Frederick Holbrook to his wife. Brattleboro, VT. Press of E. L. Hildreth & Co., 1916. £375

64 59. Hillary, Louise. Keep Calm If You Can. Round the World with the Hillary Family. London: Hodder and Stoughton, [1964]. £15

First edition. 8vo. pp. 159; illusts., map endpapers; very good in original cloth, in d.-w. which is chipped and bumped, spotting to fore-edge. Neate H88. Louise Hillary, the wife of Ed, travelled with him and their family to North America, crossing the Continent via the national forests, and back through Canada. The book includes a chapter on their visit to Darjeeling, where Ed and Tenzing meet again.

60. Hillary, Peter & John E. Elder. In the Ghost Country. A Lifetime Spent on the Edge. Edinburgh & London: Mainstream, [2004]. £30 First edition. 8vo. pp. [vii], 343; illusts.; near-fine in the original cloth, d.-w. Inscribed to the title “To John Heap, Onward & upward. Always! Thanks for having me here at SPRI. Peter Hillary. SPRI 20.4.2005”. An account of Hillary’s ski-expedition, with two companions, to the South Pole, followed by memoirs of Everest, and time in the Himalayas with his father and family. Hillary inscribed this copy to John Heap, the Polar expert.

61. [Hillary.] Michael Gill. Edmund Hillary. A Biography. Sheffield: Vertebrate Publishing, 2019. £35 First UK edition. Limited signed edition. 8vo. pp. [i, limitation leaf], 544; photo. illusts., map endpapers; new in original cloth, d.-w. Gill was a close friend of Edmund Hillary, and his biography first appeared in New Zealand in 2017. This is the first UK edition, this copy being one of 200 specially signed by the author to the limitation leaf.

First edition, copy no. 105. 8vo. pp. 61; 27 leaves of photo. illusts. inc. frontis.; very good in the original cloth, paper labels to upper cover and spine, label to spine a little browned. Not in Neate, Yakushi, or Perret. Holbrook (1861-1920), grandson of Frederick Holbrook, Governor of Vermont during the Civil War in America, worked on railroads in America, and during the early years of the First World War visited Russia, probably with a view to developing the railways there. The present privately printed work, which takes the form of a letter to his wife Grace, is based on his travels during the months of April and May 1916. He visited Samarkand, Bokhara, Tiflis, Baku, and crossed the Caucasus range. The account is well illustrated from photographs, which include scenes in the major cities and views of Mount Kazbek in the Caucasus. Holbrook and his wife are otherwise known as the buyers of Naulakha, Rudyard Kipling’s Vermont home where he and his wife lived from 1892-6 and where he wrote The Jungle Book; the house is today owned by the Landmark Trust.

65. Jackson, Eileen Montague. Switzerland Calling. A True Tale of a Boy and Girl’s Wonderful Summer Holidays Climbing in the Alps. London: A. & C. Black, Ltd., 1927. £25

First edition. 8vo. pp. vii, 238, [2, ads.]; port. frontis., photo. plates; slight marginal toning to plates, soiling to upper margin of front hinge, good in the original cloth, gilt, faded and chipped to spine. Neate J01. “A teenager’s enthusiastic account of climbing around Zermatt. A very fast climber, her prospects of a brilliant mountaineering career were curtailed by serious illness a few years later” (Neate).

66. [K2.] The K.2 Victory. Roma: Editalia, n.d. c. 1955.

A brochure for the film of the Italian ascent K2, approx. 335 x 20 cm, pp. 8, text in English, coloured and b & w photo. illusts., ports. of the expedition members, fine in the original laminated pictorial wrappers. The film of the 1954 Italian expedition to K2 was the work of Marcello Baldi for the Club Alpino Italiano, based on footage by Mario Fantin. This brochure includes an introduction by Ardito Desio, who led the expedition, text by Fantin, and stills from the film.

62. [Hillary.] Moon, Kenneth. Man of Everest. The Story of Sir Edmund Hillary. London: Lutterworth Press, [1962]. £45

First edition. 8vo. pp. 96; port. frontis., one double-page sketch map of Everest; very good in the original cloth, d.-w. which is rubbed. Neate M135; Yakushi M483; S & B M45. A biography of Hillary’s achievements on Everest and in the Antarctic, written for children.

63. Hind, C. Lewis. The Diary of a Looker-On. London: Eveleigh Nash, 1908. £10

First edition. 8vo. pp. xi, 334; minor spotting, else very good in the original cloth, gilt. Neate H97. Hind (1862-1927) was a writer, art critic, and magazine editor, and the present work collects his writings from such publications as the Daily Chronicle, the Pall Mall Magazine, and similar. One brief chapter ‘Climbing a Mountain’ - describes his ascent of the Ortler.

£125

67. [K2.] Victoria al K.2. Roma: Editalia, n.d. c. 1955.

£50

A brochure for the film of the Italian ascent K2, approx. 335 x 20 cm, pp. 8, text in Spanish, coloured and b & w photo. illusts., ports. of the expedition members, fine in the original laminated pictorial wrappers. A Spanish language version of the previous item.

68. [K2.] K2 il film dell’epica impresa. Firenze: Zincografica, n.d. c. 1955. £125

A leperello album, folding concertina-style into original self-wrappers, when extended approx. 67 x 6 cm., when folded approx. 5 x 6 cm., comprising 14 panels, printed to one side with sepia photographic ports. of the expedition members, and to the other side with coloured stills from the film; slight wear to one or two folds, else good. A very unusual miniature view-book based on the film of the first ascent of K2. The text is in Italian.

69. [K2.] ‘K2 Italia. Serie Fotografico.’ A complete set of lobby cards with two posters for the film of the 1954 Italian Expedition, directed by Marcello Baldi. Firenze: Zincografica, [1955]. £875 A large envelope, containing 10 lobby cards, each with a photographic scene from the expedition, approx. 48 x 34 cm., together with two posters for the film, each approx. 68 x 48 cm., one or two short marginal tears, one poster slightly browned to verso and with a few tape repairs, overall in very good condition, the envelope slightly worn. These large format images would have been used in cinemas to advertise Baldi’s film of the Italian ascent of K2. It seems unlikely that complete sets would have survived in large quantities, particularly in the original envelope in which they were distributed. Rare.

70. [Kangchenjunga 1955.] John A. Jackson. An airmail letter from Jackson (”Jacko”) to George Lowe, written at Kangchenjunga Expedition 1955 Base Camp (18,200ft), April 27th 1955. £1,250

3pp. written on an airmail letter, expedition cachet to address field, postmarked ‘Darjeeling 9 May 1955’, sender’s name c/o Mrs J. Henderson, Rungneet Tea Estate, Darjeeling, India, signed “Jacko”. John Jackson had been a reserve member of the 1953 Everest expedition, and took part in the successful Kangchenjunga ascent two years later. This chatty letter, written from the expedition base camp, informs Lowe that the “new Base Camp is now established near Packe’s Grave and Camps I and II will be in position anytime now. Weather isn’t very good …” He asks “How did the duplicate Kodachromes turn out? If you are wondering what to do with my originals please send them to my brother’s home …”. The letter concludes “I believe you are keen on this Antarctic journey [Lowe joined the Trans-Antarctic Expedition 1955-8 as photographer] and if so I hope things are progressing sastisfactorily. I’m afraid it’s back to teaching those wonderful children again for me - though really it isn’t a bad life is it - and here three times in four years”.

73 71

75. Lunn, Arnold. Matterhorn Centenary. London: George Allen & Unwin, Ltd., [1965]. £25

First edition. 8vo. pp. 144; illusts.; near-fine in the original cloth, in d.-w. Neate L72; Perret 2730. A celebration of 100 years of climbing on the mountain.

76. Lunn, Arnold. Unkilled for So Long. London: George Allen & Unwin Ltd., [1968]. £20

74 - 75 - 76 71. Kurz, Marcel, et al. The Mountain World 1953 [-1968/9]. London: George Allen & Unwin, 1953-1970. £250

First editions. 10 vols. Large 8vo. numerous illusts., sketch maps; some occasional spotting or foxing, else very good in the original cloth, d.-w.s, which are slightly chipped, upper cover of first vol. scuffed, minor soiling to one or two spines. Neate j78. This is a complete set of The Mountain World, a yearly journal with articles relating to the major mountaineering expeditions of each year. The first volume includes accounts of the Swiss attempts on Everest, followed in the 1954 volume by details of the successful ascent in 1953.

72. Lindemann, A. J. Sketches from my Travels in Continental Europe. N.p. [Milwaukee], n.d. c. 1922. £75

First edition. 8vo. pp. [viii, inc. blank leaf], 115; photo. illusts.; slightly shaken, else very good in the original cloth, gilt, slightly rubbed, with the author’s compliments of the season card loosely inserted. The author visited Europe in 1922, travelling to Paris, the French Riviera, the Italian Lakes, Switzerland (including Grindelwald, the Jungfrau, Lucerne and elsewhere), Oberammegau, and the Rhine. The book was published as a keepsake for friends, as was also true of the author’s later book, An Alpine Tour up Mt. Jungfrau (1924).

73. Lunn, Arnold. Switzerland. Her Topographical, Historical, and Literary Landmarks. New York: Doubleday, Doran & Company, Inc., 1928. £45

First US edition. 8vo. pp. xii, 308; frontis., photo. illusts., one folding map; light staining to top margins of plates, else good in original cloth, gilt, faded and chipped on spine. A presentation copy, inscribed to flyleaf “Eric HoltWilson With the Author’s compliments March 1929”. Neate L84. Published in the ‘Kitbag Travel Books’ series.

74. Lunn, Arnold. A Century of Mountaineering 1857-1957. London: Allen & Unwin, 1957. £75

First edition. 8vo. pp. [4], 263; frontispiece, 23 plates from photos. and paintings, some coloured; VG in original cloth, d.j., which is slightly browned on spine and chipped. Loosely inserted compliment card from the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research. Neate L63. Yakushi L311. A centenary tribute to the Alpine Club from the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research. A very good history of mountaineering that includes Himalayan exploration and mountain climbing. “Lunn’s best and most sought after book.” (Neate).

First edition. 8vo. pp. 175; port. frontis.; minor foxing, else very good in original cloth, d.-w. which is a little rubbed. Neate L86 (“A volume of general autobiography”). Lunn (1888-1974), the son of Henry S. Lunn, founder of the tour company that became Lunn Poly, was a mountaineer and skier. He founded the Oxford University Mountaineering Club, the Alpine Ski Club, and other similar organisations.

77. Main, Mrs. [Elizazbeth Le Blond]. My Home in the Alps. London: Sampson Low, Marston and Company, 1892. £175 First edition. 8vo. pp. vii, 131, 32 (ads.); some embrowning to margins of ads. at rear, else very good in the original pictorial cloth, gilt, faded on spine. Neate L25; Theakstone Women Travellers p. 40. “In this little volume, much of the matter in which first appeared in the St. Moritz Post … I have jotted down a few things of interest to the ordinary traveller in Switzerland” (Preface). Mrs. Main devotes the first five chapters to Alpine guides, drawing on her own experiences of climbing in the Alps. The remainder of the book covers Alpine scenery and such features as glaciers, moraines and the like.

78. Manchester University. Manchester University Mountaineering Club Journal. A run from 1929 to 1967-68, together with Bulletins 1-2 for 1970 and 1971, and The Manchester Mountaineering Journal 197576. Manchester: The Club, 1929-1976. £575

First editions. 4to or 8vo. Early issues with mounted photographs as issued; Original card wrappers, volumes for 1930-2 with taped spines (?as issued), minor wear to foot of spine for 1932 vol., marginal browning to wrappers of some volumes, Bulletins stapled as issued. Neate j71. A scarce run of the journal of the Manchester University Mountaineering Club to 1968, with two of the successive Bulletins (which initially replaced the journal) and an issue of the journal for 1975/6 . Among the members listed in the early years are Sir Martin Conway and G. Winthrop Young. The Bulletins refer to climbs made by Joe Tasker, who studied sociology at Manchester University; the final volume offered here has a cover photograph by Joe Tasker of Dick Renshaw on the Eiger, and the editorial for this same volume congratulates the two men on their Alpine-style ascent of Dunagiri in the Himalayas.

79 79. Maraini, Fosco, ed. I quattordici “80000”. Bologna: Zanichelli, 1964. £275

First edition. Small 4to. pp. 302; photo. illusts., one folding chart, map endpapers; very good in the original cloth, in original d.-w., which is a little rubbed and chipped. A presentation copy inscribed and signed by the author to the half-title, with the bookplate and signature of Norman Dyhrenfurth. Not in the usual bibliographies. An anthology, edited by Maraini, of writings on the first ascents of the 8000+ peaks. Maraini provides an introduction, biographies of those who made the first ascent, and an Italian translation of the primary accounts. At the end of his foreword, Maraini thanks Günter Oskar Dyrenfurth for his contributions to the “bibliografia himalayan”, and this copy was probably presented to Günter, subsequently passing into the library of his son Norman.

80. Maraini, Fosco. Gasherbrum 4º Baltoro-Karakorùm. Bari: Leonardo da Vinci, 1959. £225

First edition. Small 4to. pp. xix, 334, [1]; coloured and b&w photo. illusts., sketch maps, map endpapers; very good in the original cloth in the original d.-w., which is a little frayed with loss to extremities. A presentation copy to “Prof. Dyhrenfurth” from the President of the Clup Alpino Italiano Virginio Bertinelli to half-title, with the subsequent bookplate and signature of Norman Dyhrenfurth.

Yakushi M168b; Perret 2809. Maraini’s account of the successful Italian expedition of 1958, under the leadership of Riccardo Cassin. This copy was presented to Günter Dyhrenfurth by Bertinelli, President of the Italian Alpine Club from 1959-1964, subsequently forming part of the library of his son Norman.

81. Maraini, Fosco. Paropàmiso. Spedizione romana all’Hindu-Kush ed ascensione del Picco Saraghrar (7350 m). Bari:Leonardi da Vinci, 1963. £225

First edition. Small 4to. xii, 422; photo. illusts., 7 maps inc. some folding, map endpapers; very good in the original cloth, small indents to upper board, in the original d.-w. and the original card slipcase. A presentation copy inscribed and signed by an unidentified person on the half-title to Prof. G. O. Dyhrenfurth, with the subsequent bookplate and signature of Norman Dyhrenfurth. Yakushi M169a. An account of the successful Italian expedition to Saraghar in North Chitral in 1959, translated into English as Where Four Worlds Meet (1964).

82. Markham, Clements R., editor. Narratives of the Mission of George Bogle to Tibet, and of the Journey of Thomas Manning to Lhasa. Edited, with Notes, and Introduction, and Lives of Mr. Bogle and Mr. Manning, by Clements R. Markham. London: Trübner and Co., Ludgate Hill, 1876. £1,750

First edition. 8vo. pp. clxi, [2, part title], 354; errata slip tipped-in at p. xxi; steel-engraved frontis. of Warren Hastings, 6 wood-engraved plates of views, 2 wood-engravings to text, one folding reproduction of a letter, 4 folding maps; slight foxing to frontis., innger hinges partly cracked, else very good in the original cloth, gilt, faded on spine, minor wear to head of lower joint. Yakushi M185a. The names of Bogle and Manning are remembered as those of the first Britons to enter Tibet. George Bogle (1746-1781) joined the East Indian Company in 1769, and in 1774 Warren Hastings appointed him to act as envoy to the Lama of Tibet. Bogle more than succeeded in his mission to open communications between England and Tibet: the friendship that developed between him and the Teshu Lama continued by correspondence once Bogle had returned to India. Thomas Manning (1772-1840) “was considered the first Chinese scholar in Europe” (ODNB). His desire to penetrate to the heart of the Celestial Empire took him to Canton in 1807 and on to Calcutta in 1810. The following year Manning proceeded with a single servant and without official government sanction to Parijong on the Tibetan border, where he was met by a Chinese general with troops. Manning used his medical skills to treat some of the troops for illness, and was allowed to travel in their company as a doctor. By this route, he finally reached Lhasa, where he remained for several months. Not only did Manning thus become the first Briton to visit Lhasa, but also the first to obtain interviews with the Dalai Lama. It seems incredible that the accounts of these two men remained unpublished for so long. Clements Markham’s editing of their surviving manuscripts gains from the lengthy introduction which prefaces them. In it Markham offers an authoritative description of Himalayan geography, an historical sketch of Tibet and its relations with the outside world, and biographical portraits of Bogle and Manning. The preface is also important for reproducing, at p. lxi, D’Anville’s 1733 map of Tibet, which features the first recorded mention of Mount Everest in Western literature (here named ‘Tchoumour Lancma’).

83. Mason, Kenneth, et al. The Himalayan Journal. Records of the Himalayan Club. A run from vol. 1 to vol. 69. Calcutta: Thacker, Spink and Co. [etc.], 1929-2013/4. £1,750 First editions. Together 69 volumes, numerous maps and plates, stain to plates in vol. 1, overall very good in the original printed or pictorial wrappers, some fraying and discolouration to spines of earlier volumes, together with The Consolidated Index to The Himalayan Journal Volumes 1 to 50 (1929) (1994) (The Himalayan Club, Bombay, 1994), and several other index volumes. Neate j14. The Himalayan Club was founded in February 1928, the initiative of Geoffrey Corbett and Kenneth Mason. The list of founding members reads like a Who’s Who of Himalayan exploration: Thomas Holdich, Francis Younghusband, Martin Conway, Norman Collie, Douglas Freshfield, Aurel Stein, the Duke of the Abruzzi, and many others. Mason himself became the editor of the Club’s journal, which has achieved “a world wide recognition as the most authoritative source of reference on the Himalaya, Karakoram and Hindu Kush. Except for the war years it was continually published covering all the major expeditions” (Harish Kapadia, from his History on the Himalayan Club website). We are pleased to offer a complete run of the journal from volume 1, until volume 69 - the Club continues to publish the journal (currently at volume 73).

85 84

inscription to flyleaf of Herbert Waddington, else good in contemporary limp roan with advertisement for John Lee’s Guide Depôt to rear pastedown, rubbed. Wäber I.72; Perret 3159. As Perret notes, this guide, first published in 1838, became “indispensable” for British travellers to Switzerland in the nineteenth century. It went through several editions, each with additional information. This copy has a list of plates at page lxxi stipulating that the book be bound with the panoramas of the Bernese Alps and of Mont Blanc at the relevant sections, but the binder of this copy - John Lee, who specialised in binding Murray’s handbooks as well as passports for travellers - has bound both on one sheet at the Mont Blanc section.

87. Næss, Arne & Roland Huntford. Drømmen om Everest. Oslo: Ernst G. Mortensen, [1987]. £75 88 - 90 84. McConnell, R. B. Outline of the Geology of the Ruwenzori Mountains. A Preliminary Account of the Results of the British Ruwenzori Expedition 1951-1952. London: HMSO, 1959. £20

First separate edition. 8vo. pp. [i], [245]-268; 3 plates of photo. illusts., one folding diagram, one large folding map loosely inserted; sellotape marks where map sometime taped into rear of book, good in the original printed wrappers, soiled. Reprinted from Overseas Geology and Mineral Resources Vol. 7, no. 3. The author took part in two 1951 preliminary expedition, and the main expedition in 1952 as deputy leader.

85. [Mont Blanc.] Joseph Tairraz, photographer. ‘Glacier des Boissons et Aiguille du Midi’. Chamonix: Jh. Tairraz, n.d. c. 1860s. £25 A cabinet photograph, approx. 108 x 165mm., printed caption at foot of image in the negative, photographer’s details printed at foot of card, verso blank; image slightly faded, else good. Joseph Tairraz, from a family of Chamonix guides, began photographing Mont Blanc from the late 1850s, and founded a business that continued through his children and grand-children. The present photograph shows a party of seven, including two women, ascending the Glacier de Boissons.

86. Murray, John (publisher). A Hand-Book for Travellers in Switzerland, and the Alps of Savoy and Piedmont. London: John Murray & Co., 1846. £95

Third edition, Corrected and Augmented. 8vo. pp. lxxii, 420; panoramas of the Bernese Alps and the Chain of Mont Blanc on one folding sheet, one folding map printed on linen at rear; one section loosened, ownership

First edition. 4to. pp. 160; numerous photo. illusts.; text in Norwegian; good in the original rexine, lacking d.-w., rubbed. Signed by Arne Næss to the flyleaf. Yakushi N07; S&B N03. Arne Næss (1937-2004), the shipping magnate and mountaineer, in 1985 led the first Norwegian expedition to Mount Everest. Many of the team and sherpas reached the summit, including for the first time Chris Bonington, who accompanied the expedition (several of Bonington’s photographs are used in the book).

88. Navarra, Fernand. The Noah’s Ark Expedition. London: Coverdale House, [1974]. £8

First edition. 8vo. pp. xv, 138; photo. illusts.; very good in original cloth, d.-w. Neate N09. An expedition to Mount Ararat, in search of timber and other remaining evidence of Noah’s Ark.

89. [Nepal.] The Hong Kong Mountaineering Expedition to Lamjung Himal Spring 1974. N.p. [Hong Kong], n.d. c. 1974. £25 First edition. Small thin 4to. pp. 36; illusts., route map; slightly creased in original printed wrappers. Yakushi B625.An account of the successful ascent of the 22,910’ peak in the Nepal Himalaya, the expedition members mostly from the British Army.

90. Noyce, Wilfrid. The Springs of Adventure. London: John Murray, [1958]. £25

First edition. 8vo. pp. xii, 240; photo. illusts.; very good in the original cloth, which is slightly dis-coloured, in d.-w. (slightly chipped). Neate N41; Renard 1162. An essay on the reasons that motivate people to explore, with examples drawn from mountaineering and polar episodes.

91. Ower, Leslie H. The Geology of British Honduras. [Belize, British Honduras: Clarion Limited], n.d. [1927]. £75

First edition. 8vo. pp. [24]; one folding map; very good in the original printed wrappers, slightly soiled. The rare first imprint of an article subsequently published in the 1928 volume of the Journal of Geology. Ower offers some discussion of the country’s mountainous region, with references to various ascents made in the 1870s and 1880s.

92. Pascoe, John. Unclimbed New Zealand. Alpine Travel in the Canterbury and Westland Ranges, Southern Alps. London: George Allen & Unwin Ltd., [1939]. £150

First edition. 8vo. pp. 238, [2]; coloured and b&w illusts., three folding maps; minor spotting, else very good in the original cloth, in d.-w. which is slightly frayed with tape repair to upper margin of lower panel and also to verso of wrapper. Neate P20: “The author’s pioneering climbs and explorations between the wars, with historical sections on Samuel Butler, etc.”

93. Perret, Jacques. Guide des Livres sur la Montagne et l’Alpinisme. Grenoble: Editions de Belledome, 1997. £110

First edition. 8vo. 2 vols. pp. 572 & 573; text in French; VG in the original cloth, gilt. A presentation copy, inscribed by the author at front of volume I. An exceptional bibliographical guide to mountaineering literature, with a wider range than Neate, Yakushi and other mountaineering bibliographies. Volume I contains indexes of titles, chronology, illustrators, collections, themes, locations/regions, pseudonyms; volume II listings of books by author and anonymous titles.

93 94. Perry, Sir Erskine. A Bird’s-Eye View of India, with Extracts from a Journal Kept in the Provinces, Nepal, &c. London: John Murray, 1855. £450

First and only edition. Small 8vo. pp. viii, 277; heraldic bookplate, ink date-stamps to front blank, else very good in contemporary half sheep, gilt decorated spine, slightly rubbed. Yakushi P72. Thomas Erskine Perry became a judge of the Supreme Court of Bombay in 1840, taking up office the following year and remaining in India for the next eleven years. The present work, written after his return to Britain, contains a first part devoted to an overview of Indian geography, society, natural history, and the like. The second part comprises Erskine’s ‘Journal of a Vacation Trip in India, through Rajputana, the North-West Provinces, and Nepal’, the high-point of which is his visit to Katmandu.

95. Preston Mountaineering Club. Preston Mountaineering Club Journal. Volume 3, 1947/1948, plus volumes for 1959 and 1961. N. p. ?Preston, 1948, 1959 & 1961. £150

First editions. Together 3 vols. 4to. 42ll., 31ll. & 39ll., printed to rectos only; 7, 4 & 5 mounted photographs, each captioned in pencil to the leaf; minor spotting, else very good in the original wrappers. Neate j88 (citing only vols. 3 and 4 for 1949). The Preston Mountaineering Club comprised a membership from Preston itself, Blackburn, Blackpool, and other towns in the north west of England. The Journal, which seems to have appeared intermittently, includes articles relating to climbs in the British Isles, the Alps, and in the 1959 volume the Himalaya. The most recognisable member of the Club was Alf Gregory, who took part in the successful 1953 Everest expedition. Gregory features in the first volume offered here, to which he contributes an article ‘Gran Sasso d’Italia’ (though, sadly, no photographs!). In the two later volumes, Gregory is listed as an honorary member of the Club, and the 1959 volume article ‘A Himalayan Journey’ by Richard Cook describes a “British-Italian Expedition to the Everest Region of the Himalaya”. This was in fact the 1958 attempt by Cook, Gregory, Piero Ghiglione, G. Pirovano, J. Cunningham and Dr. Levene, to climb Amadablam; the attempt was halted at 20,000ft by a difficult ridge, and the group instead made the first ascent of Island Peak, 21,326ft.

96 96. [Pugh, L. G. C. E. “Griff’.] Strictly Confidential. Himalayan Scientific and Mountaineering Expedition 1960-61. £195

A type-written prospectus for the expedition, 4pp. to rectos of four sheets of foolscap, stapled together, creased where folded, signed by Pugh to upper right corner of first sheet, together with the carbon copy of a typed letter from Pugh to the Chairman of the Governors, London Hospital, requesting leave for Michael Ward to accompany the expedition, signed by Pugh, 7th January, 1960, 8vo. 2pp. The Himalayan Scientific and Mountaineering Expedition 1960-61 had a two-fold goal: to establish a high altitude base for physiological research; and an atttempt, by acclimatised climbers, on Makalu. The mountaineering party was led by Edmund Hillary, and Griff Pugh led the scientific team. The so-called Silver Hut expedition accomplished much useful scientific work, but the attempt on Makalu ended badly, and the only mountaineering achievement of the expedition was the winter ascent of Amadablam by Bishop, Gill, Romanes and Ward. The present item is Pugh’s outline of the expedition programme, with suggested objectives (including “Search for Yeti tracks”, designed to attract media attention), largely relating to the scientific work.

97 - 101 - 109 97. Rébuffat, Gaston. Starlight and Storm. The Ascent of Six Great North Faces of the Alps. London: J. M. Dent & Sons Ltd., [1968]. £75

Second UK edition. 8vo. pp. 224; photo. illusts., sketch maps; small tear to fore-edge of prelims., else very good in original cloth, d.-w. Neate R20; Perret 3610. The French climber’s lyrical account of his ascents of the Grandes Jorasses, the Piz Badile, the Dru, the Matterhorn, the Cima Grande di Lavaredo, and the Eiger.

98. Reid, Ian, ed. Guide Book to Mount Kenya and Kilimanjaro. Nairobi: Mountaine Club of Kenya, 1963. £20 Second edition. 8vo. pp. [iv, ads.], [v], 192, [6, ads.]; illusts., sketch maps, one folding sheet with two maps; good in the original plastic covers, creased, outer corner of lower cover bent.

98 - 99

Neate Q813 (1st ed.). This guide book first appeared in 1959, and within four years Reid had “completely revised, re-written and enlarged” the book to accommodate new information. A pocket is provided at the rear “in which amendments and additions may be inserted”.

99. Robson, Peter. Mountains of Kenya. [Nairobi:] East African Publishing House, [1969]. £12

First edition. 8vo. pp. [ix]; 80; coloured and b & w photo. illusts., one map; very good in original pictorial card wrappers, soiled. Neate Q814. A useful guide to the region, published for the Mountain Club of Kenya.

100. Rucksack Club. The Rucksack Club Journal. A run from vol. 1, no. 1 to vol. XXIV, nos. 1 & 2, 1907-2004. Manchester: The Rucksack Club, 1910-2004. £575

A complete set, in non-uniform bindings, comprising: Vol. I contemporary half roan, gilt, original upper wrappers bound at rear, rubbed; vols. II-IV original printed wrappers in 12 parts, minor wear to spines of several parts; vols. V-VIII contemporary cloth, gilt, faded on spines; vols. IX-XVI original printed card wrappers, vols. for years 1950, 1951, 1954-7, 1959, & 1961-71 also in dust-wrappers; vols. XVII-XXIV original laminated card wrappers; numerous illusts. and maps, age-toning to first vol. but overall in good condition, with The Rucksack Club Journal Centenary Index 1901-2002. Neate j96. A run of the journal, not often found. Publication of the Journal was preceded by three yearly reports, numbers one and three of which are not present here. This set also includes: The Rucksack Club Second Annual Report November 1904; From Kinder Scout to Kathmandu: A Rucksack Club Anthology 1907-1986 (1987); The Gentlemen of London The Rucksack Club London Section 1937-1987 by K. C. Treacher (1987); This Mountain Life: The First Hundred Years of The Rucksack Club ed. John Beatty (2002), plus related ephemera.

101. Shipton, Diana. The Antique Land. London: Hodder & Stoughton, [1950]. £95

First edition. 8vo. pp. ix, 219; photo. illusts., map endpapers; previous owner’s label to half-title, very good copy in original cloth, in d.-w. which is somewhat frayed. Yakushi S430. The author, wife of Eric Shipton, describes her travels in the area of Kashgar in the Chinese province of Sinkiang during the years 1946-8.

102. [Smith, Albert.] Mr. Albert Smith’s China (New Edition) and Mont Blanc Revisited in now open every evening . . . N.p. ?London, n.d. c. 1860. £425

Square 8vo. pp. 8; soiled, creased and slightly frayed, good in selfwrappers. This apparently unrecorded pamphlet contains summaries of Albert Smith’s show at the Egyptian Hall on London’s Piccadilly. Smith climbed Mont Blanc in 1851, and from 1852 staged his Mont Blanc spectacular; he introduced the China performance a few years later. This joint bill contains a note that “The new illustrative views for 1860 have been painted by, or under the direction of, Mr William Beverley”, who had accompanied Smith on his 1851 ascent of Mont Blanc. A plan of the stalls is followed by a description of the room, and next comes a list of scenes for the two shows. The Mont Blanc show appears to be a different version from the one with which Smith made his name, and indeed only

two scenes relate specifically to it: ‘The Road up to the Flegère, looking towards Mont Blanc’, and ‘The Tete Noire’ (which mentions “Pringle the Feeble” who “has a daring ambition to belong to the Alpine Club and write in the next series of “Peaks, Passes and Glaciers,” only he has never been up anything”!). We can find no bibliographic references to, or institutional holdings for, this pamphlet.

103. Smythe, F. S. The Kangchenjunga Adventure. London: Victor Gollancz Ltd., 1930. £150

First edition. 8vo. pp. 464; 48 b&w photo. illusts., 8 sketch maps to text; slight spotting and age-toning, good in the original cloth, somewhat discoloured, endpapers renewed. Inscribed by the author to half-title “Yours very sincerely Frank Smythe Jan 30th 1932”. Neate S119; Yakushi S622a. A personal account of the 1930 Dyhrenfurthled expedition that made an unsuccessful attempt on Kangchenjunga. The party went on to make a successful ascent of Jonsong Peak.

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104. Smythe, Francis S., Frank (1900-1949). ‘Mount Everest. The Full Story.’ An article in Kodak Magazine, February 1934, pp. 17-24, together with Smythe’s original autograph manuscript of this article, titled ‘The Mount Everest Expedition 1933’. £475 Published version: small 4to. pp. 17-40; numerous illusts. inc. to Smythe’s article; a little spotting, else VG in the original wrappers with a cover image of Everest from Smythe’s photograph, ownership inkstamp of J. E. Archbald to upper cover. MS version: 25 lined notebook leaves, written in Smythe’s hand in pencil to rectos only, the first leaf headed ‘The Mount Everest Expedition 1933 by F. S. Smythe’; occasional corrections, some leaves a little frayed (particularly the first and final ones), paperclip marks to first and final leaf. These two items, the autograph and printed versions of the same article, were contributed by Smythe to the monthly Kodak Magazine in February 1934. Smythe had taken part in the 1933 Everest expedition under the leadership of Hugh Ruttledge, and he published a fuller account of it in what is considered to be his best book, Camp Six (1937). The published article is illustrated by 11 of Smythe’s photographs; sadly the originals of these are no longer present. The magazine and autograph version of Smythe’s article both once belonged to J. E. Archbald, an associate of the Royal Society of Photography, who also contributes some photographs of a theatre show to this issue (p. 31).

105 - 110 - 113 105. Sneyd-Kynnersley, E. M. A Snail’s Wooing. The Story of an Alpine Courtship. London: Macmillan and Co., Limited., 1910. £45

First edition. 8vo. pp. [ix], 344, [8, pub’s list]; some foxing, sellotape repair to fore-edge of one leaf, good in the original cloth, gilt, rubbed, sunned on spine. Neate X335: “Climbing and life around Zermatt before World War I”. The book has chapter headings such as ‘Riffel Alp’, ‘Gorner Grat’ and similar.

106. [South Africa.] Table Mountain Guide. Walks and Easy Climbs on Table Mountain and Devil’s Peak. Cape Town: Stewart Printing Co., n.d. [1944]. £20

107 - 106 First edition. 8vo. pp. 77; 19 photo. illusts., two maps inc. one in front pocket; sellotape marks to endpapers, else very good in original cloth. Neate Q809.

107. [South Africa.] Climbs on Table Mountain. The Mountain Club of South Africa [Cape Town], 1952. £25

First edition. Oblong 8vo. pp. [i], 54; 4 photo. plates; very good in spiral bound card wrappers, slightly soiled. This edition not in Neate.

108. Stead, Richard; John F. Campbell & Ernest Fraser, illustrators. Daring Deeds of Great Mountaineers. True Stories of Adventure, Pluck and Resource in Many Parts of the World [with original artwork and correspondence]. London: Seeley Service, 1921. £950 First edition thus. 8vo. pp. 259; col. frontis. and 8 plates; very good in the original decorative cloth, rubbed and slightly faded on spine; together with: 1. the original artwork for the illustrations comprising the original watercolour of the frontispiece by Campbell (approx. 23 x 32cm.), 6 pen and wash illustrations by Campbell (each approx. 24 x 32cm.), 2 pen and wash illustrations by Fraser (approx. 18 x 22 cm.), and the artwork for the front cover design; 2. printed proofs for each illustration; 3. 11 letters or notes from Stead to the publisher in 1906-7 relating to the original appearance of his book (Adventures on High Mountains, 1907); 4. Copy letter from the publisher to the printers Billing & Sons with instructions for the reprinting of part of Stead’s original work, and three related items. Occasional foxing to some letters or artwork. Neate S159. Stead’s Adventures on High Mountains appeared in 1907 (the book was dated 1908), and in 1920 Seeley Service decided to reprint the greater part of it under a new title, Daring Deeds of Great Mountaineers (the reprint omitted the final six chapters of the original work). The present copy of the latter book is sold with the original artwork for the illustrations that appeared in this volume, together with proofs and related material. The letters from Stead relate to the original appearance of the book, and discuss content, permissions (notably with regard to Lady Stanley), and recommendations for inclusion. The illustrations include those relating to Tyndall’s ascent of the Weisshorn, and Whymper’s Matterhorn accident of 1865.

114. [Tuckett, F. F.] A Pioneer in the High Alps. Alpine Diaries and Letters of F. F. Tuckett 1856-1874. London: Edward Arnold, 1920. £250

111

First edition. 8vo. pp. xi, 372, 16 (pubs. ads.); port. frontis., 7 plates inc. two folding; browning to frontis. from tissue-guard, embrowning to endpapers, previous owner’s bookplate, good in the original cloth, faded on spine (as often). Neate T69; Perret 4345. Francis Fox Tuckett (1834-1913) was a leading climber of the golden age of Alpinism. After initial climbs around Chamonix, Zermatt, and elsewhere, in the 1860s he pioneered climbing in the Dolomites, for which he won recognition from King Victor Emmanuel II. A few of his climbs were recorded in articles published in the Alpine Journal (reproduced here), but the vast majority of his accounts were unpublished before the appearance of the present work.

115. Watson, Sir Norman & E. J. King. Round Mystery Mountain. A Ski Adventure. London: Edward Arnold & Co., [1935]. £95 112 115 109. Styles, Showell. Mallory of Everest. London: Hamish Hamilton, [1967]. £20

First edition. 8vo. pp. 157; illusts.; very good in the original cloth, d.-w. which is creased on inner panels. Neate S189.

110. [Switzerland.] Paterson’s Guide to Switzerland. Oliphant Anderson & Ferrier, n.d. c. 1905. £20

New and Enlarged edition. 8vo. pp. xvii, 162; 7 town plans, one folding map, one folding railway map; some browning at front and rear, good in the original cloth, gilt, a little faded on spine. Paterson’s Guide was originally issued during the nineteenth century; this edition carries a folding railway map for May 1903. The guide offers a series of routes across the country, with details of accommodation, trains, etc.

111. Thomas Cook & Son. Summer in the Alps. London: Thomas Cook & Son, [1911]. £45

Oblong 8vo. pp. 52; photo. illusts., one folding map; good in the original printed wrappers, which are frayed along spine. This brochure offers a “synopsis of Arrangements for visiting the Principal Summer Health Resorts in the High Alps” (title-page), with the various resorts described and illustrated. The final four pages contain advertisements for Jaeger, Burberry (“Weatherproof Mountain Kit”),and the skate-maker T. H. Deane.

112. Tibesti Expedition 1964. An official expedition postcard from the Austrian Alpine Club Expedition. Villach: Theodor Strein, 1964. £35 A b&w photographic postcard, signed by five members of the expedition, expedition cachet, Chad 20F stamp, VG. The Austrian Alpine Club (Klagenfurt & Villach sections) expedition to Tibesti was led by Rupert Sternath, and combined mountaineering activity with a mapping programme. Nineteen peaks were climbed in all. This card was sent from the expedition base at Bardai, and is signed by the leader, Sternath, and by Max Ortner, Gunter Swoboda, and two others.

113. Tissot, Victor. Unknown Switzerland. London: Hodder and Stoughton, 1889. £35

First UK edition. 8vo. pp. x, 361, 4 (pubs. ads.); previous owner’s blindstamp to flyleaf, else very good in original cloth, gilt, faded and soiled on spine. Neate T51. An account of the author’s travels in Switzerland (the Engadine, the Valais, Gruyère), with a chapter on his son’s ascent of the Dent Blanche with the guides Antoine Bovier and Maurice Gaspoz.

First edition. 8vo. pp. xii, 246; photo. illusts.; a little foxing, else good in the original cloth, gilt, rubbed and a little faded. A presentation copy, inscribed to the half-title “To “La Bishop” “Mollie the artist” Best wishes Norman J. Watson 1936”. Neate W30. An account of the first ski crossing of the Coast Range of British Columbia. Watson’s party ascended with pony transport and eventually carried their load on foot, establishing a base camp at the foot of the Scimitar Glacier and a forward camp at Fury Gap. From there an assault party climbed the col and skied down to the Pacific, whilst the rest of the party descended on foot.

116. Waugh, Lieutenant-Colonel A.S. & B. S. Hodgson. ‘Papers relating to the Himalaya and Mount Everest.’ An article in the complete issue of Proceedings of the Royal Geographical Society of London, no. IX, April & May, 1857. London: Edward Stanford, 1857. £750

First edition. 8vo. pp. 329-364 [article at pp. 345-351]; some staining, good in the original printed wrappers. Signed to the front wrapper by Ed Hillary. Ownership inscription of Michael Ward to first leaf of text (doctor on the 1953 Everest Expedition). Not in the usual bibliographies. The naming of Mount Everest, signed by the first man to climb the mountain. Waugh’s notice, just 2pp. long and dated Dehra, March 1st, 1856, marks the beginning of the Everest story in Britain. In this brief article, Waugh imparts to the members of the RGS news that the Survey of India’s peak XV “is higher than any other hitherto measured in India, and most probably it is the highest in the whole world.” He continues: “I was taught by my respected chief and predecessor, Colonel Geo. Everest, to assign to every geographical object its true local or native appellation. I have always scrupulously adhered to this rule, as I have in fact to all other principles laid down by that eminent graduist. But here is a mountain … without any local name that we can discover … I have determined to name this noble peak of the Himalayas ‘Mont Everest.’” There follows a second notice in which B.H. Hodgson suggests that Everest does have a local name - Devadhunga which should be adopted. In the discussion following the reading of these two papers at the RGS, the president Sir Roderick Murchison hopes that, whatever its name in India, in England at least peak XV “would always be known by the name of Everest.” The final say goes to Colonel Everest himself, who objects to the application of his name to peak XV because the word Everest “was not pronounceable by a native of India.”

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118

117. White, Walter. Holidays in Tyrol. Kufstein, Klobenstein, and Paneveggio. London: Chapman and Hall, 1876. £95

First edition. 8vo. pp. xvii, 361, [4, pubs. list]; one folding map; inner hinges neatly restored, else very good in the original cloth, gilt, expertly restored to head and tail of spine. White (1811-1893) worked for the greater part of his life as librarian of the Royal Society of London. The position gave him access to some of the foremost people of the day, but also allowed him the opportunity to travel in summer. His destination was often the Tyrol, and his walking tours in the region formed the basis for his On Foot in Tyrol (1856) and the present work, based on seven summers in the area.

118. Whymper, Edward. How to use the Aneroid Barometer. London: John Murray, 1891. £225

First edition. 8vo. pp. [ii], 61; good in the original grey wrappers, somewhat browned, upper wrapper with internal sellotape repair offset to title-page, wrapper neatly restored to spine. Neate W62. Whymper travelled in the Andes in 1879-80, and noticed certain irregularities in the readings of aneroid barometers at high altitude. Consideration of the instrument resulted in the publication of the present work, which led to important improvements in their construction. Based on observations he took in the Andes, it also advertises on its rear wrapper Whymper’s book of the expedition, Travels amongst the Great Andes of the Equator (1892), and the scientific supplement. For this reason, How to use the Aneroid Barometer has often been regarded as an addendum to the narrative work.

119. [Whymper.] Smythe, F. S. Edward Whymper. London: Hodder and Stoughton Limited, [1940]. £150

First edition. 8vo. pp. xiv, 330; 24 b & w plates, 3 reproductions of diary entries, one sketch map and 2 folding maps; browning to endpapers, else very good in the original cloth, gilt, in the original dust-wrapper, which is worn with loss to head of spine and slightly spotted. Neate S117; Perret 4085. This “unrivalled” biography (Lyall The First Descent of the Matterhorn, p. 592) offers a thorough account of Whymper’s pioneering ascents.

120. [Whymper.] Joseph M’Cormick. A Sad Holiday. A Lecture delivered before the Liverpool College. British Library Historical Print Editions, n.d. c. 2011. £15

119

121

121. Wilbraham, Edward Bootle. ‘Narrative of an Ascent of Mont Blanc in August, 1830.’ An article in The Keepsake for MDCCCXXXII, pp. 1-16. London: Longman, Rees, Orme, Brown, and Green, [1832]. £75 First edition. 8vo. pp. iv, 320; frontis. and 14 other eng. plates, 2 additional eng. title-pages; minor foxing to plates, else very good in original moiré cloth, gilt, a.e.g., very rubbed on joints and to extremities. Wäber I.381; Brown & de Beer 70; Nava F/5; Meckly 216. Wilbraham (1771-1853) made the 20th ascent of Mont Blanc, with Joseph-Marie Couttet and five other guides.

122. [Wollaston, A. F. R.] Letters and Diaries of A. F. R. Wollaston. Selected and edited by Mary Wollaston with a preface by Sir Henry Newbolt. Cambridge at the University Press, 1933. £95 First edition. 8vo. pp. xv + 261; 4 portraits; very good in the original cloth, gilt, a little rubbed and soiled. Ownership inscription of Brian Roberts to flyleaf. Neate W115; Yakushi W209; Salkeld & Boyle W15; not in Perret. Wollaston joined the 1921 Mount Everest Reconnaissance Expedition as medical officer. Chapter 8 of the present work prints extracts from his journal of the expedition. Other chapters offer material relating to Wollaston’s 1905 ascent of Ruwenzori, travels in Colombia, New Guinea and Lapland, and to the Great War. Wollaston died in 1930, murdered by one of his students. This copy of the book once belonged to Brian Roberts, a member of the British Graham Land Expedition 1934-7, himself an ornithologist.

123. Young, Geoffrey Winthrop. ‘A Mountain Climb under Fire’ in The Cornhill Magazine, pp. 230-45, August 1922. £15

8vo. pp. 8 (ads.), 129-256, 9-16 (ads.); slight foxing, else good in the original printed wrappers with contents overslip pasted to upper cover. An ascent of Sabotino, on the border of Italy and Slovenia. During WWI the Italians held it against Austrian attacks, and it is against this backdrop that Winthrop Young made his climb.

124. Young, Geoffrey Winthrop. ‘A Great Rock Climb: The Grépon from the Mer de Glace’ in The Cornhill Magazine, pp. 155-172, August 1924. £20

8vo. pp. 8 (ads.), 129-256, 9-16 (ads.); slight foxing, else good in the original printed wrappers with contents overslip pasted to upper cover.

Reprint edition. 8vo. pp. [vi], 30; VG in original printed wrappers, minor signs of use. M’Cormick was in Zermatt at the time of the 1865 Matterhorn accident, and assisted in the aftermath. The present pamphlet, original published in 1865, gives his account of events as narrated in his lecture. The original is exceptionally scarce, leading the British Library to offer it in the present reprint edition.

123 - 124

125. [Young, Robinia Elizabeth.] Views in the Pyrenees: with descriptions by the author of the sketches. London: Published by the Author … and by Henry Leggatt & Co., 1831[-33]. £1,250

First edition. Two parts in one volume. 4to. pp. [iii, title-page, dedication leaf], 32; ten plates engraved on india paper after the author’s sketches by Finden, two vignettes to text; some heavy foxing throughout, affecting mainly the text but also the margins of the plates, good in contemporary bottle green morocco, gilt, a.e.g., slightly rubbed. Perret 4635 (“Très rare”). Robinia Elizabeth Young (c. 1811-1897) published the present work in the form of two fascicules, here collected into a single volume. The text provides an introduction to the Pyrenees, followed by descriptions of various regions, illustrated by the engravings (Bagnères, Campan, Barèges, the Pass of the Tourmalet). The work was probably projected as a series of parts, since the second part ends somewhat abruptly, but no further material was published. It is particularly uncommon, with only the BL copy found on COPAC, and Worldcat adding two further copies. In 1846 Young married the Italian physicist Carlo Matteucci, famous for his researches into bioelectricity.

126. Zurbriggen, Mattias. From the Alps to the Andes being the Autobiography of a Mountain Guide. London: T. Fisher Unwin, 1899. £475

First edition. 8vo. pp. xvi, 269, [2, ads.]; port. frontis., illusts.; good in the original cloth, gilt, t.e.g., sometime respined with original spine laid down, new endpapers. Wäber II.89; Neate Z03; Perret 4667 (“Ouvrage peu courant et très recherché”); Yakushi Z31a. Zurbriggen (1856-1917) accompanied some of the most important late nineteenth century expeditions to the great ranges of the world. In 1892 he joined Martin Conway’s Karakoram expedition (see items 27 & 28). Later he took part in Edward FitzGerald’s expeditions to New Zealand and Aconcagua in the Andes - of which Zurbriggen made the first ascent alone. He also joined the Workmans, assisting Fanny in her ascent of Koser Gunge, at the time the highest climb by a woman. His autobiography - the first work to be published by an Alpine guide - has become uncommon.

BIBLIOGRAPHIC REFERENCES Alpine Club Library Catalogue 1982 – Alpine Club, London Alpine Club Library Catalogue Books and Periodicals (London: Heinemann, 1982) Brown and de Beer - Brown, T. Graham & Gavin de Beer The First Ascent of Mont Blanc. Published on the occasion of the Centenary of the Alpine Club (Oxford University Press, 1957) Cox Classics in the Literature of Mountaineering – James R. Cox. Classics in the Literature of Mountaineering and Mountain Travel: from the Francis P. Farquhar Collection of Mountaineering Literature. An Annotated Bibliography Annotations and introductory essay by Nicholas B. Clinch, James R. Cox, and Muir Dawson (Los Angeles: University of California Library, 1980) Le Montagne per Gioco – Aldo Audisio & Ulrich Schädler, eds. Le Montagne per Gioco tra le vette e le nevi dei giochi da tavolo (2 vols., Turin: Museo Nazionale della Montagna, 2006) Meckly – Eugene P. Meckly ‘A Bibliography of Privately Printed Mountaineering Books A Revision’ (Alpine Journal, vol. 96, 340, 1991, pp. 196-208) Meckly – Eugene P. Meckly Mont Blanc The Early Years A Bibliography of Printed Books from 1744 to 1860 (Asheville, North Carolina: Daniels Graphics, 1995) Moss et al. - Alan Moss, Peter Haigh & Nigel Baker Alpine and European Climbing Guidebooks 1863-2013 A Collector’s Guide (Leeds: Green Woods, 2014) Nava – Monte Bianco 1786/1986 descrizione, tentativi, ascensioni dal 1669 al 1900 dai libri di Piero Nava (Bergamo: the author, 1986) Neate – Jill Neate Mountaineering Literature. A Bibliography of Material Published in English (Milnthorpe: Cicerone Press; Seattle: Mountainbooks, 1986) Perret - Jacques Perret. Guides des Livres sur la Montagne et l’Alpinisme (Grenoble: Editions de Belledome, 1997) Renard – Julien G. R. Renard Major Collections of Antarctica (Collingwood, Australia: Gaston Renard, 1994) S & B - Audrey Salkeld & John Boyle. Climbing Mount Everest. The Bibliography. The literature and history of climbing the world’s highest mountain (Clevedon, Avon: Sixways Publishing, 1993) Theakstone - John Theakstone Victorian and Edwardian Women Travellers. A Bibliography of Books published in English (Mansfield Centre, CT: Martino, 2006) Wäber – A.Wäber Bibliographie der Schweizerischen Landeskunde (Bern: K. J. Wyss, 1892-1896; reprinted by Maurizio Martino, Staten Island, NY, c. 1995) Yakushi - Yoshio Yakushi Catalogue of Himalayan Literature (2nd ed., Tokyo: Hakusuisha Publishing, 1984; 3rd ed., 1994)