renegade
game changers | thought leaders | rule breakers | style makers
COLLECTIVE issue 2
From to
Glam Rock
Gamification
How to
Fail Fast TOMS SHOES SOCIALPRENEUR amps up
the cool hunter
the arbiter of style
THE REINVENTION OF
MIA
A Passion for Fashion Fleur Wood Camilla & Marc Ole Lynggaard
Bobbi Brown An offer too
good to refuse
Carolyn Creswell
$1000 to $55 Million
93 stories
to inspire & rock your world [that’s only 10.6c PER STORY]
FREEDMAN #collectivehub renegadecollective.com
EDITOR’S LETTER ISSUE 2
Thank you from the bottom of my heart to every one of you who has so openly and generously embraced The Collective with so much passion and love. I have literally been blown away and dropped to tears on more than one occasion since we launched. All of us can have a dream – and launching this baby was a big one of mine. Like many of you with your businesses and passions, my team and I worked on it tirelessly for months and months with a clear vision in the hope that it would find its place in the world. You guys have totally and utterly embraced it and I have received hundreds of letters, Facebook, Instagram and Twitter posts, and every time I am so humbled that you would take the time to love this brand as much as we do. I never want to forget that. It’s funny really, but while I’m the owner from a monetary perspective, I don’t really ‘own’ The Collective anymore. It is you, our readers, that will dictate its direction and tell me what you love or don’t love and where you want it to go. That is exactly what I dreamed of and exactly what is happening. So, please don’t hold back. Be as real and as specific as you can be. I want to change and adapt how you want us to. It’s really important to me and I’m not precious about it. This is your magazine now. We are a community. Every day since October 2012 I have been documenting the entire experience of putting The Collective together – the funny, the unexpected, the scary – every little detail. Like you, I am an entrepreneur, and putting together this magazine is a journey not dissimilar to what you are facing every day in your own businesses, lives or roles. I want to be as transparent and open about it all, including the joys and the hardships I have been experiencing. I want to lay it out on a platter so that ‘the story behind the magazine’ will hopefully inspire you. There have been a lot of recurring themes that I have been asked about since launching The Collective and I have addressed just some of them on page 40 to give you a bit of an insight into how my brain works. The biggest one I have tackled is on page 176 on how to ‘Fail Fast’ – I do this hundreds of times every single year. I fail a lot! In this issue we’ve again brought you lots of different inspiring stories and how to’s from across the globe including gamification [very cool], personal branding, the new Silicon Valleys, loads of techy stuff, inking yourself, artisans, happiness, creative spaces and loads of cool places to go in the world. It’s stacked and packed full of 93 stories to inspire and rock your world. We’ve focused a little more than usual on tech because in this 30th year of the official switch on of the internet, we’re blown away by the way it has transformed how we conduct business. The opportunities, the networking, the online ventures; it’s facilitated many of the most world-changing businesses and entrepreneurs of recent decades, just some of which we’re excited to showcase. We also chose a theme for the ‘Collective Covet’ which better reflects the ‘renegade’ theme that is now a part of our masthead. We experienced a little legal hiccup around utilisation of the word ‘messenger’ and needed to choose a new name. See more on page 64 around this and why ‘renegade’. I particularly love The Cool Hunter. I feel like Bill and I were separated at birth – his brain seems to operate in a very similar vein to mine. Instant love! And we even went through a similar experience of the suits forcing us to restart our online followings (ours was after our name change) – his was a few more at 800,000 though! >
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Mia and I approx. age 12 off to first double date
BEHIND THE SCENES
COVER SHOOT
The tattoo piece was also super fun – who would have thought you could make a cool $10k for inking your forehead? And thanks to Commbank for your great insights behind Investorville and Coinland in our gamification piece. Definitely something we’re looking to play with here at The Collective! Seriously though, I love and have learnt so much from every single piece and every single person in here – funny that... I guess they wouldn’t be here otherwise! Shooting the cover was another blast. Mia and I were inseparable besties in Year 7 at school and then she became kinda cool and I became kinda country but we’ve always followed each other’s careers and journeys in parallel for the past 20 odd years, checking in with and supporting one another at big milestones along the way. As with Issue 1 and Lorna, it was important for me to feel deep into my gut who felt right for the cover and this decision was unquestionable. In my mind, Mia rocks, and she’s definitely one person who has stood her ground and stayed true to what she believes in again and again, often against some pretty big and hard-hitters. She makes no secret that she is not a massive fan of magazines these days, yet in the second week of launch I had this gorgeous message from her, part of which read, “Girl, you have got some seriously big cojones as the Italians would say. Incredibly impressive.” And in our true style we wanted to shoot her in a way she had never been shot, but which reflected her personality. She was so easy and relaxed, and happily jumped in and out of skimpy leather shorts and crazy outfits. It was a gorgeous girly day, like two besties reunited. Her story is fresh, inspiring and real. Spotted on Mia’s FB later that day: “Today I did a photo shoot that pushed me so far out of my comfort zone that at one point I looked down at myself and said ‘I look like Judy Jetson, except a sl*@’. THAT far.”
I really value your feedback. The most honest and constructive feedback will be featured in the next issue and get ‘The Traveller’ tea set from our good friends at Bindle.
We’re also loving bringing the pages to life at our events. This issue we’re hosting our first series of ‘Collective Bites’ – reader dinners in Sydney (The Winery) and Melbourne (Estelle) – think free-flowing ideas with good food, wine and interesting minds. BYO Good conversation. And if you’re feeling a bit introspective, don’t miss our upcoming two ‘Happiness Workshops’ with our friends at kikki.K – see page 130 for a taster. Can’t wait to meet some of our Collective fold. We’ve included loads of pics of our launch party and shots that you have sent in – hopefully you can spot yourself. Take lots of snaps of holding this issue and upload them to our ‘Collective Hub’ Facebook, Twitter and Instagram pages for your chance to be included in Issue 3. In true Lisa tradition, I just move and morph as the market wants. There has been a much stronger sense of community than I could have ever imagined and as a result we’ll be launching some really cool stuff in Issue 3! I hope you love this issue. Again, I absolutely welcome your feedback. Please email me anytime at lisa@themessengergroup.com.au. Big love!
LISA MESSENGER Editor-in-Chief
lisa@themessengergroup.com.au
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lisamessenger
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We are humbled every day by the enormity of responses. We love receiving your messages and photos. Thanks for sharing! The Collective team xx
spreading the love.
WINNER!
Congratulations Grace! Definately the most unexpected place reading Collective. You’ve won two nights at the editor’s holiday house in Bangalow, NSW.
Image: by Dandapani
IMAGES SUPPLIED BY HOLLY GOLIGHTY
THE COLLECTIVE
F mixing business
with family It’s either a good idea or… it’s not. Australian brother and sister design duo, Camilla Freeman-Topper and Marc Freeman, have been mixing business with family and are reaping the rewards of their partnership. WORDS: CAMILLA D’ARCY
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or Camilla Freeman-Topper, one half of Sydney-based fashion label camilla and marc, the success of the business can be attributed to the implicit trust shared between her, and her elder brother slash business partner, Marc. “For the last two years of my degree [at Sydney’s Whitehouse Fashion School] I spent all night, every night, in my design room and Marc would come in and help me,” recalls Camilla. This year marks the tenth anniversary of the design house, one that has gone from strength to strength since its introduction to the fashion world in 2003. Prompted by an invitation to show at Australian Fashion Week on the back of Camilla’s graduating collection from Sydney’s Whitehouse School of Fashion in 2003, the pair formed camilla and marc and went from there. “My brother and I were always going to do some kind of business together. It was always something we’d discussed. We never had any firm plans of who, what, when, how. After I got the call [to show at fashion week] I called him and he said, “Yep, let’s do it!” [After Fashion Week] we collected our first orders and went from there – it was quite a wild ride,” says Camilla. Following the pair’s winter 2004 collection, Australian department megastore Myer picked up the pair, making camilla and marc the first design house in Australian history to be stocked by a department store in their first year of business. Each sibling brings something different to the table. Marc, an engineering-commerce graduate, possesses the problem solving, analytical and business skills needed to give momentum to Camilla’s strong design flair and technical ability. “From the very beginning it was pretty clear that he would run the business side as well as managing the production,” says Camilla. “Marc was always very good at solving problems and thinking more logically,” Camilla continued. “A lot of it from the very beginning was very day-by-day, and I’m really glad we did do that. I think a lot of businesses put together these big grand business plans, and it’s not really a natural progression,” says Camilla. >
Starting a label is no easy feat. Camilla attributes their success to the distinct, signature offering the pair established from early on. Their collections, including luxe party wear, classic tailoring and separates, cater for a clearly defined customer and niche-luxury women’s wear. The clear vision and opulent, Parisian infused design philosophy infiltrates every element of the business. From runway presentations, branding and online elements, to the design and fit out of flagship stores, the key message of the brand is nurtured in a strategic, well thought out manner. “I think a lot of people going into this business think it is all glamour and there’s not a lot of hard work, but it’s enormously stressful. Every day is different; every day you face new obstacles and challenges,” says Camilla. Looking at starting Reflecting about how far they have come, Camilla a label? Camilla and says, “I think back to all the different things we Marc offer their how experienced over those first few years when the to tips: internet wasn’t as strong and it really was all about relationship building and face to face contact, making Have a clear idea of where you see the sure you were constantly picking up the phone.” brand, the look, feel, who you want to Straight out of college with no prior experience, sell to, the media you want to focus on and who your customer is. Camilla and Marc set about finding machinists and pattern makers. “There was lots of driving from Be consistent but still evolving – don’t pattern maker to maker to machinist, sourcing chop and change your idea about who fabrics and trims. 10 years ago the internet wasn’t as your customer is every season. Have a developed, so it was all about making relationships really clear idea about the muse. and trying to build the business on that. Trying to get Realise if you don’t put in a lot you’re as many contacts together as we could to get the best not going to get a lot out of it. My quality products,” says Camilla. “Most of our fabrics motto has always been if you haven’t were from Europe so it was about trying to find new put your blood, sweat and tears into it, mills and places to make our cloth. The year we first it’s not worth letting everyone in the showed was 2003. That September I left for Italy and world see it. spent three days walking across six football fields at a fabric fair in Florence, trying to find as many Be aware you will work incredibly long contacts as I could. It was incredibly frightening and hours initially. Don’t be mistaken by overwhelming, but amazing. And still today we have the ‘glamour’ of the fashion industry very strong relationships with those first few mills we Have clear knowledge of critical path started working with.” and when deadlines need to be. As Even though camilla and marc started out in a time soon as you start lagging, it sparks a when the internet was less prominent, it now plays a domino effect, and can take a really crucial role in the development of their business. They long time to get back on track. have a strong e-commerce component and recognise the importance in providing a unique and equally Make sure you set up a supply chain exciting online shopping experience for the modern you feel can grow with you. That you can trust implicitly. day shopper. “Having an online store where people can buy It is all about relationships and it is things at one, two, three, four, five or six o’clock in important to manage them well. It’s the morning is remarkable,” says Camilla. “I find it the whole supply chain, making sure really interesting, learning and understanding peoples from the very beginning to the very shopping habits. A bricks and mortar store offers a end you are doing things right. Build completely different experience. We make sure that we an honest business. provide customers with an equally amazing shopping experience ,but they are different, and you need to look at them differently. It is important to know the types of customers that shop only online, only in store, or both. We have exclusives pieces online and also buy differently for online, because customers can’t really see or feel a material.” Understanding the importance of catering to the market, camilla and marc launched the C&M line originally as a swimwear line with resort style pieces, however this has since evolved, catering for the ‘younger sister’ of buyers of the main line – a younger demographic who go to festivals and concerts. The duo has since noticed mainline customers tend to buy from both lines, enhancing the holistic offering of the brand.
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HABITAT
TATTOO TRIVIA:
The 5th century BC Greek historian Herodotus records how Histiaeus of Miletus, who was being held against his will by King Darius of Susa, sent a tattooed secret message to his son-in-law, Aristagoras. Histiaeus shaved the hair of his slave and tattooed the message on to the man’s head. The slave was told that the procedure would cure his failing eyesight. When the slave’s hair had grown back sufficiently to hide the tattoo, he was sent to Aristagoras, who shaved his head and read the hidden message. The message instructed Aristagoras to begin a rebellion!
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hroughout human history, tattoos have reflected social status. In modern times the motivation has shifted. People with tattoos may identify with a tribal mindset, or be inked for cultural or religious reasons. Alternatively, some may want to highlight their devotion to a person, product or brand, challenge the status quo, or make some quick cash (true story!). Whatever the reason, tattoo establishments currently rank among the top six growing businesses in the US. Corporate logo tattoos are increasing dramatically. In the case of San Francisco Mexican restaurant Casa Sanchez, the incentive was commercial: customers received free lunches for life if they tattooed the logo on themselves. For others, it is less about free lunches and more about showcasing their “Lovemark”.
something so intrinsic should happen organically, not as a transaction. No Respect, No Love. A Lovemark happens when we get beyond attributes, beyond benefits and beyond brands. “Lovemarks don’t belong to marketers, stockholders or companies. They belong to the people who love them. If you love the brand, do it. Do I have a tattoo? No (both my daughters have, Hello Betty Boop…). If I did have a logo tattoo, it would be the Silver Fern of the New Zealand All Blacks, above my heart. Why? Because I’m loyal beyond reason. “The lengths people will go to in the name of brand loyalty, whether it is self-identification with a particular brand’s philosophy or style is extraordinary. As one Apple tattoo recipient stated: ‘I’m a Mac freak - I identify strongly with Apple and Mac computers. I got it [the Apple logo tattoo] done to convince myself I would always be true to Apple.’ Go figure.”
Professor Angela Orend
From the Department of Sociology at the University of Louisville, Angela has devoted a large part of her life to studying consumer culture and its connection to the body. “In the tattoo world, branding isn’t about marketing; it’s about the representation of meaning,” she says. “The body has literally become a human billboard as people have begun to tattoo themselves with corporate logos that signify their life philosophy. Harley Davidson is the most common corporate logo tattoo, but Apple is quickly becoming a close second. These brands have created a lifestyle and experience that are embedded into our social consciousness. “When I first started researching this topic, Human Billboard I assumed people who Advertising: did this were duped by Sites such as leaseyourbody.com and advertising slogans and tatad.com provide the platform connecting advertisers with people open to the idea of marketing strategies. selling space on their skin. It’s a lucrative What I’ve come to exchange. Some people have gone to such understand after lengths as having their foreheads tattooed. talking with hundreds With advertising paying such high prices, of people who have entire college funds are secured as a result. One such participant sold her forehead for a tattooed themselves cool US$10,000 in exchange for permanent with a corporate logo inking of a random ad. is that the brand has personal meaning You Would Tube you do it? #renegadecollective to them. “The tattoo represents not only brand loyalty but their personal philosophy on life (think of Nike’s “Just Do It” or Apple’s “Think Different” campaigns). It’s who they are, they think different, they just do it! Just like consumers buy meaning and not products, people with corporate logo tattoos mark themselves with meaning, not corporations. “People begin to take meaning into their own hands and create their own play on self-expression and individuality. They turn the messages upside down and inside out. Many corporate logo tattoos have little relation to the intended meaning of the brand. For instance, one guy I interviewed had the red and white swirl ‘Real’ milk symbol next to the Life magazine logo. He’s lactose intolerant and has never had a subscription to the magazine. To him, his logo tattoos symbolise ‘Real Life’ and remind him to keep life real. Now that’s real meaning!” If you ask me that’s all well and good but getting any logo permanently tattooed on your body seems crazy. Well perhaps not as crazy as selling your forehead as advertising space. Those guys are in a league of their own.
social media icons
Image courtesy of Jaimie Nicole Photography jaimienicolephotography.com
Kevin Roberts
CEO of international advertising agency Saatchi & Saatchi sheds some light on the craze. “There are not many practices that have survived 5000 years and thrive today, such as tattoos,” he says. “Today’s tattoo craze underscores their visceral power, a personal leap of faith that can come from identity, belonging, patriotism, self-improvement, impulse, beauty and more. Love is core. People exhibit affiliation in many ways: they hoard, improve, rave, share, ink themselves. To show their Loyalty Beyond Reason. A tattoo is a Lovemark, an ultimate expression of love. “To me, the trend of companies motivating people financially to tattoo corporate logos onto their body is tacky. Self-engraving
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THE COLLECTIVE
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THE NEW CLASS
They’re the ones to watch. Those starting up and quickly rising through the ranks. With a point of difference, they sparkle. They think differently, push boundaries and challenge the status quo. They’re talented and fearless; from different backgrounds, following big dreams, they dance in different arenas. Yet they share a similar flair. They are the standouts. 2
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THE NEW CLASS
JODIE FOX
From THREE people on the couch 3 years ago to 300 per cent growTH over the last 12 months, Jodie Fox and her Shoes of Prey co-founders are revolutionising the way women buy shoes. It’s been less than two days since Shoes of
Prey director of fashion and founder, Jodie Fox landed back on Sydney soil after a whirlwind business trip to New York, and already she’s fit in more than most of us would achieve in a week. From the moment her covetable heels hit the ground at 8am on a Monday morning, she was running straight to a board meeting, then on to a Fashion Week Australia collaboration with Sydney label, Romance Was Born, filming duties with Fashion One TV and keynote speaker roles at industry events. “That’s my life,” she says from the company’s headquarters in Sydney. “At any point during those last few days, I could have doubled over and thought ‘This is way too much’ – but I love what I do every single day. Our team is amazing and I get so much energy from them that I can get through days like that.” The Shoes of Prey story started out like many others: Jodie was unable to find the perfect pair of shoes and so started to design and produce her own. She soon partnered with co-founders Michael Fox and Mike Knapp, who were working at Google in advertising, sales and software engineering at the time. “They were so excited about what was going on in online retail and they were looking for a novel idea that would really be exciting to work on, so with the marriage of all of those passions, Shoes of Prey was born.” Word of mouth and social media [120,000+ followers and counting] took care of the rest, with the start-up officially launching in October 2009, and now operating on a global level with four international offices and 40 staff scattered around the world. The numbers speak for themselves: in the first two years after launch, Shoes of Prey customers had designed tens of millions of shoes and spent more than 20 million minutes on the site creating their ideal product. With over four trillion combinations to choose from, we’re not surprised! You came from a background in advertising and law, how hard was it to quit your full-time career and throw yourself at the mercy of the start-up? I think the thing that was really tough was getting past the notion of the absolutely terrifying fear of failure. But we decided that if something’s going to fail, it’s better for it to fail quickly, so doing it full-time was really important. We decided that the ‘what if ’ was way scarier than not trying.
With the benefit of hindsight, is there anything you wish you’d done differently? Go faster! We spent way too much time trying to figure out sizing and we made things more complicated than they actually should have been. Another big lesson I have learnt is that when you are an entrepreneur it’s impossible to separate your life from work. Which is why it’s essential to absolutely love what you do. Your work must be life enhancing, not a necessary evil. Have there been moments when you’ve doubted yourself? I’ve never believed in anything more than the idea of Shoes of Prey, but there are still moments when I do curl up in a ball and cry. I’m quite emotional so the highs and lows can really affect me. The trick is knowing how to release it, pull insights from it and let it go. Don’t focus on it. Great friends and family are priceless. Also it’s important to celebrate the successes – so far we’ve appeared on Britain’s Next Top Model, The Today Show, SKY Business and collaborated with amazing creatives like Romance was born, Nylon Magazine and Elizabeth Arden – that helps with doubt! What strategies do you implement professionally and personally to stay sane? At a practical level, scheduling, goal setting, prioritisation and time management are essential for your sanity. Otherwise you feel like you’ve Jodie’s never achieved enough and that’s business incredibly demoralising. It’s also about mantra finding sustainable ways to have good > Don’t let the big fundamental habits – enough sleep, a vision impair you – good diet and exercise is vital for me. take one small bite and see what happens. At shoes of Prey we love our daily stand up meeting. It keeps everyone focused > Don’t plan to the across what the company is doing; we point of inaction. share new ideas and solicit help with You have to move challenges. A crucial step to success particularly fast in the online space. was to create a shared and collaborative working culture. Prior to that we had > Believe passionately a culture by default, which we realised, in what you’re doing can be quite dangerous, cause huge because ultimately, amounts of friction and unnecessary this life is about doing conflict. When everyone is on the same what you love and page it just flows. being happy. Where do you see online shopping heading in the future? We’re now into all the various ways that online shopping can evolve and manifest. We’re obviously pioneering the customisation movement and have been for the past three years, and I think the ability to buy exactly what you want to wear is a really big movement that will spread across all product offerings eventually. And thinking about things like 3D printing – that will just blow out of the water the immediacy of receiving products, because the control that will come with that is really exciting!
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At the collective, we believe you can do anything you want. We believe that taking control of our own lives & working hard bears fruit. Style makers are breaking the rules to follow their passions and share their perspectives. They’re inspiring us, and their energy is contagious. They’re turning good ideas into great realities to create a more beautiful world to live in. From fashion design to photography, this chic elite is forging new paths in the realm of style. They dream big and keep moving forward. Make no mistake about it: they’re great entrepreneurs who redefine current trends and set new ones. Now, it’s time to be receptive to their art. 2
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Images: Samantha Wills, Eddie Borgo Gunmetal Pyramid Cuff, Merle O’Grady Bombshell Bracelet, OPI Which is Witch, Louis Vuitton Blazer, Greg Kadel Studios Sequin Suit
STYLE MAKERS
we the people
Street style snaps by Jessie
Navigating the streets of London – and capturing enviable style – is how Jessie Bush likes to invest her time. And boy did we develop a Blog Crush when we discovered her. Authentic to her morals, her style and her inspirations, Jessie is a rare bird in the fully bloomed blogging tree. WORDS: ASTRID DE DAMPIERRE
The blog-crush credentials
Stay soulful. That’s Jessie’s philosophy and it might just be one of the reasons she has captured a devout following. Jessie treats We The People purely as an online portfolio. Stay true. The blogosphere is so saturated these days. It’s satisfying to find someone authentic, who has stayed true to a consistent style – and to herself. Be unique and do what you want. Her icy blonde hair could have landed Jessie in front of the camera as a fashion model, but she followed her true passion: the art of creating durable images. For more than three years, Jessie has been shaping her career behind the lens, trying to add a distinctly Australian voice to the global street style movement. Don’t be afraid to test your comfort zone. Newly based in London, Jessie has taken We the People to a new landscape where fresh style awaits. Having now established yourself here and abroad, how do you find (and balance) relocating for shoots in different locations? It can be hard moving cities – it takes time to build new relationships and familiarise yourself with a new place. In terms of finding and shooting in new locations I've relied on people who know the city better than myself. Locals always know the best hidden spots, and the best way to get there! Why the move to London? And what do you find are the key differences between Sydney and London (in relation to your work)? Sydney is my spiritual homeland (I'm originally from Blenheim, a small town in the South Island of New Zealand), so it was definitely hard to say goodbye. >
Be unique and do what you want. Her icy blonde hair could have landed Jessie in front of the camera as a model. But for more than 3 years, Jessie has been shaping her career behind the lens trying to add a distinctly Australian voice to the global street style movement.
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STYLE MAKERS But I'm a big believer in leaving your comfort zone and taking on new adventures. London was always on the cards for me, and having the rest of Europe on my doorstep is pretty amazing. The main differences between London and Sydney are definitely tied to climate and lifestyle. Back in Sydney chances are I could shoot almost any day of the week, but in London the weather is a little more temperamental. And obviously climate effects street style too – outfits are often covered up by big coats, scarves and thermals. But warmer weather is just around the corner, so all of that is about to change! Are there any frustrations working in an industry, which can be quite fickle? Of course, jobs and contracts somehow fall through at the very last moment or you lose work to someone who can afford to work for free. But for the most part it's a great industry to be in – there are so many inspiring creatives and new people to meet, work and travel with. What are some of the pros and cons of working for yourself? I guess the pros are obvious – working in track pants, endless cups of tea, the freedom to take a trip away when the moment strikes. There aren't really any cons, but it can be a challenge when you have no-one else to motivate you to get up and start answering emails. Technology and platforms like Instagram are making photography more accessible. What is your take on this? And how is it affecting the industry? Technology and social media are amazing for those who have access to it. It provides a level of immediacy and removes geographical boundaries, which I think compliments the fashion industry. It's particularly beneficial for e-commerce, as brands can build up hype with consumers via social media, which can then translate into real life sales. How do you monetise We The People? I don't make much money from We The People directly, generally my income comes from selling my street style shots and shooting for other brands. My blog basically serves as an evolving online portfolio. What were some of the key strategies in building such a huge following? There are a few key things, which I feel Australian bloggers do really well – create a clean layout for your blog, only post high-quality images and remain consistent with your voice and style. Embrace social media, meet people in real life and build meaningful relationships. Although, I do think that having an authentic voice and staying true to your aesthetic is more important than a really big following. What are your top 3 tips for a budding street style blogger? Invest in a camera you can afford, familiarise yourself with the finer workings of photoshop and take your camera everywhere you go.
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here’s a reason the beauty giants of the world are probably not happy with Malin + Goetz. You may recognise the brand [pronounced mah-lin and gehtz] by their minimalist design and uncomplicated regimen. After all, their products are emblematic of the way they run the business – soulfully and simply. Malin + Goetz was launched in 2004 as a self-funded startup by partners in business (and in life), Matthew Malin and Andrew Goetz. During this time, the smaller, family-owned companies were being sold off to larger corporations (such as Kiehl’s to L’Oreal, where Matthew had been working). So Matthew the beauty doyen, and Andrew the marketing gun, fused their collective knowledge to demystify the world of skincare. With no million-dollar marketing spend, the brand has seen rapid development with 650 global stockists and an annual turnover of $15 million. Not bad for a brand that wears its heart on its sleeve. Step one: Unisex positioning Being based in the multicultural metropolis of New York City does have its perks, like the tendency for any entrepreneur to want to create a universal product. And when it comes to appealing to both men and women, Malin + Goetz do it better than most. “It wasn’t that long ago when people used to go to their local pharmacy or apothecary for skincare solutions, regardless of their gender – the pharmacist gave the patron a solution that was specific to their issue,” says Andrew. “You don’t expect gender-specific prescriptions for antibiotics. Why would you for your skincare?” Step two: The Modern Apothecary If you’ve visited one of their stores [two in New York, one in Los Angeles] we’d forgive you for thinking you’ve teleported into a new (old) world. Aged wooden dressers are at the centre and similar to the apothecaries of old, the lab [wholesale office] is run from the backroom. Step three: The vertical platform Mindful of being taken seriously, they launched their e-commerce site simultaneously and headed for the big guys in one swoop [such as Barneys and Liberty of London]. Thanks to their combination of natural ingredients and cutting edge chemistry, their 11-item product line was received well and instantly. “While we use contract manufacturers to make all our products, we have hired our own formulator. So we can technically take our formulas to any lab we want to be manufactured. If you let a manufacturer perform that role you are beholden to that manufacturer for that formula,” says Andrew.
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LESS IS MORE
In a world where cosmetics are mass-produced with mysterious chemicals, getting back to basics is a winning formula.
WORDS: JADE DUNWOODY
Step four: Having heart By day, Matthew and Andrew would man the counter, wait on customers, pack and post. Then by night, they would serve home-cooked dinners to guests as a way to promote the brand. “We funded our business from our personal savings. The startup costs were extremely modest in terms of money, but very rich in terms of our creativity and determination,” says Andrew. “Managing our growth has been our biggest challenge. We are still learning how not to be consumed by it.” Step five: A global presence Don’t let three stand-alone stores in the US 10 years after launch fool you. Malin + Goetz have hundreds of points of sales globally, including Hong Kong and Korea, and have expanded the line to more than 40 products – and are still growing. “It’s very important that we offer a global presence for our brand. But we don’t want to be a victim of hubris,” says Andrew. “So the secret to global expansion is to find the right partner in each market to represent and market the brand. It would be utterly impossible to do this out of New York. ‘Go global – but think local.’ And to think local you need a great local team.” Step six: A strong partnership “This is a constant challenge. And while we’ve have our Sid and Nancy moments from time to time, we’ve also gotten better at navigating the treacherous waters of being partners in life and business,” says Andrew. “It’s very important that we each have time to ourselves, so we try not to do everything together. We go to the gym at different times, we carve out time in the morning to ourselves. Matthew likes to work from our county home on Fridays – and me from the office. We reconvene over dinner when he picks me up from the train. One quirk that I have which Matthew really can’t deal with is my habit of eating dinner at 10pm, or later… the closer to midnight the better. I also have a bad habit of speaking in metaphors – which I have somehow spared you from in this interview!”