t.10.2017 by meta618

www.tamiyamodelmagazine.com

SHE'S GOT IT WHERE IT COUNTS, KID WORK BEGINS ON THE MAGNIFICENT DEAGOSTINI 1:43 MILLENNIUM FALCON

£4.30 October 2017 ISSUE 264

FREE GIF TS FOR SUBSCRIBERS! DETAILS INSIDE...

TAMIYA’S AMAZING 1:6 HONDA AFRICA TWIN, FULL BUILD

! D A O R E H T F F O KING Studio 27 Theodore Wolf, 1:35 Morris Quad plus new kits, books and modelling accessories…

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Model Military International Vol.139

2017 TAMIYA

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52 SHE'S GOT IT WHERE IT COUNTS, KID Work begins on the magnificent DeAgostini 1:43 Millennium Falcon

Issue 264 October 2017 EDITOR Marcus Nicholls editor@tamiyamodelmagazine.com

Contents Co 22 ONWARD TO PARIS AND LIBERATION! Modelling Tamiya's new-tool M10 TD in 1:35

4 NEWS DESK New kit and model product news 6 AUFRECHT, MELCHER AND GROßASPACH IN 1:24! Tamiya’s new 1:24 competition car kit takes the form of the Mercedes-AMG GT3 8 A WOLF IN TEDDY’S CLOTHING Studio 27’s 1:20 Theodore Racing WR3 Keke Rosberg 14 A QUAD WITH THE MODS! Mirror Models’ 1:35 Morris Quad C8 Mk.II/III 20 ON TRACK IN 1:24 A 1:24 mixed-media Kettenkrad 42 NEW RELEASES ACCESSORIES New and recently issued modelling accessories 46 MIGHTY M1A2 MUSCLE Tamiya have created a 1:16 M1A2 Abrams for static display 48 NEW RELEASES KITS New full kits, reviewed 60 BOOK REVIEWS New and recent books related to scale modelling 64 CONTACTS Where to buy the products used and reviewed in TMMI 30 KING OFF THE ROAD! Tamiya's amazing 1:6 Honda Africa Twin, full build

66 THE EDITOR’S PAGE Tamiya’s figures get better and better Join TMMI at facebook.com!

HOW O TO OW T CONTA CONTACT T CT TA C US:

Do you live outside the UK and want Tamiya Model Magazine delivered direct to your home, anywhere in the world? Just email us at; enquiries@doolittlemedia.com Or call +44 (0)1525 222573, fax +44 (0)1525 222574 GMT Subscription rates for 1 year (12 issues) are: Within UK: £44, Europe: £56, Worldwide/USA: £69

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TELEPHONE: (UK) 01525 222573 FAX: (UK) 01525 222574 EDITORIAL EMAIL: editor@tamiyamodelmagazine.com ALL OTHER ENQUIRIES: enquiries@doolittlemedia.com ADDRESS: Tamiya Model Magazine International,

Doolittle Mill, Doolittle Lane, Totternhoe, Bedfordshire, LU6 1QX, UK Tamiya Model Magazine is published monthly by Doolittle Media Ltd. Reproduction in part or whole of any text, photograph or illustration without written permission from the publisher is strictly prohibited. While due care is taken to ensure the contents of Tamiya Model Magazine is accurate, the publishers and printers cannot accept liability for errors or omissions.

TMMI 264 October 2017

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Newsdesk IN BRIEF... TAMIYA - Mini4WD Cannon D Ball - Mini4WD Festa Jaune Black Special - 1:10 RC Landfreeder Matte Black Special - 1:10 RC Volkswagen Beetle Rally - 1:24 Subaru 4WD Turbo XT Coupe - 1:16 German Kubelwagen Type 82 Africa Corps w/ Feldmarschall Rommel - 1:16 German Kubelwagen Type 82 European Campaign - RC Pit Bag (Medium) hobbyco.net

If you have news of forthcoming model, armour, aircraft or car events, changes of address or just interesting information to share, please write to: TMMI Newsdesk, Doolittle Mill, Doolittle Lane, Totternhoe, Bedfordshire, LU6 1QX, UK Tel: +44(0)1525 222573 Email: editor@tamiyamodelmagazine.com

ON THE WAY FROM TAMIYA 1:35 BRITISH SELF-PROPELLED ANTI-TANK GUN ARCHER

Tamiya's next new 1:35 armour kit takes the form of the British WW2 17pdr anti-tank vehicle, later known as the Archer. It will use parts from the new Valentine kit, with an all-new 17pdr gun. www.hobbyco.net

BRONCO - 1:35 Hungarian Medium Tank 41.M Turan II

ON THE WAY FROM TAMIYA 1:48 HANOMAG SS100 DRAGON - 1:35 DAK Pz.Bef.Wg.III - 1:72 Pz.Kpfw.IV Ausf.F2(G) - 1:72 StuG.III Ausf.C/D - 1:72 King Tiger Henschel Turret - 1:72 StuG.III Ausf.E hobbyco.net

The little Hanomag tug was used on airfields to tow Luftwaffe aircraft and also to move the V2 missile to launch sites. Maybe Tamiya will release the Meillerwagen and V2 in 1:48 at a later date? www.hobbyco.net

Tamiya originally issued these unusual but very appealing 1:6 Kawasaki and Honda engines many years back, so it's good to see them return. Each comes with a display base with name plate denoting which bike the engine comes from www.hobbyco.net

NEW FROM AMALGAM 1:4 BUGATTI CHIRON ENGINE AND GEARBOX

HAULER - 1:72 FuSE 62D Würzburg radar - 1:72 Skoda RSO wheeled tractor - 1:35 D-9 Ace details (Takom) www.hauler.cz

ZVEZDA - 1:72 German Headquarters WWII Winter - 1:350 Russian Battleship ‘Poltava’ WW I www.hobbyco.net

ON THE WAY FROM TAMIYA 1:6 MOTORCYCLE ENGINES

Amalgam have created a 1:4 scale collector’s model of the Bugatti Chiron engine and gearbox. It has been hand-crafted utilising the original CAD data supplied directly by Bugatti and has undergone strict scrutiny by both the design and engineering teams to ensure complete accuracy. Yours for just £7,320.00 www.amalgamcollection.com

ON THE WAY FROM ITALERI 1:12 FIAT 500F Italeri have tooled up for an all-new kit of the Fiat 500 F in 1:12. The model will include photo-etched parts, synthetic rubber tyres and waterslide decals. www.hobbyco.net

ON THE WAY FROM ZEVZDA 1:72 YAK-130 MITTEN

The Yakovlev YAK-130 (NATO code 'Mitten') is the latest Russian trainer/ light attack aircraft, entering service in 2009. The Yak-130 is used as advanced trainer for 4th and 5th generation fighters. This will be an allnew kit that comes with decals for two Russian and one Belarus aircraft. two pilot figures included. www.hobbyco.net

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KIT PREVIEW

TAMIYA 1:24 MERCEDES-AMG GT3 NO.24345

AUFRECHT, MELCHER AND GROSSASSPACH IN 1:24!

Tamiya’s first 1:24 competition car kit for a while takes the form of the ruggedly handsome Mercedes-AMG GT3

fter quite a hiatus, Tamiya have created an all-new kit of a race car, adding to the 1:24 Sports Car Series. It takes the form of the Mercedes-AMG GT3, the race-spec customer sports car converted from the AMG GT road car by Mercedes’ AMG high performance division. It is an awesome machine, with a monster 6.3 litre, naturally aspirated V8 engine that puts out 558hp. Its lightweight and robust carbon-fibre body completely updates the road car’s underpinnings and it features aero – large rear wing, air intakes, splitter, canards and diffuser – that give it significant downforce on track. Delivery of the GT3 began in 2016 and it has yielded top results such as 2016 Blancpain GT Series Driver and Constructor Championships, plus a sweep of the top four places

in the 2016 running of the 24 Hours Nürburgring.

ABOUT THE MODEL

The kit is 198mm in length, 87mm wide and wears synthetic rubber slick tyres. In the cabin we find a full rollcage and sparse racing cockpit with bucket seat, foot-pedals, fire extinguisher and F1-style steering wheel. Decals are included to recreate the dashboard display; the seat harness are decals too and while these are effective enough for a brief peak through the windscreen, enthusiasts will want to add their own PE/ribbon harness sets. Keep an eye on www.hiroboy.com for forthcoming hop-ups and transkits for this model. The bonnet is moulded in with the body and no engine detail is provided; the flat underpanel would hide all lower-side mechanicals anyway. The front wheels are steerable

as you’d expect and the suspension, while finely detailed, will be quick to construct. The standard gunmetal and yellow Mercedes-AMG livery is offered, seen when the car was tested, displayed at shows, etc. A new Tamiya Color spray, TS-100 Semi-Gloss Bright Gun Metal (Item 85100), has been developed specifically for this model and goes on sale simultaneously. It looks stunning in the box and we’ll be bringing you a full-build article as soon as we possibly can! ● AVAILABILITY; Tamiya models and accessories are widely available from good model shops and online. UK import and distribution by The Hobby Company Limited; www.hobbyco.net Paints and accessories from; www.hiroboy.com

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1/48

SEPTEMBER 2017 Recommended accessories: 48765 Spitfire Mk. IXc landing flaps 1/48 (PE-Set) 48766 Spitfire Mk. IX surface panels 1/48 (PE-Set) 49639 Spitfire Mk. IXc 1/48 (PE-Set) 648100 Spitfire Mk. IX cockpit 1/48 (Brassin) 648112 Spitfire Mk. IX engine 1/48 (Brassin) 648120 Spitfire - radio compartment 1/48 (Brassin) 648124 Spitfire undercarriage legs BRONZE 1/48 48 (Brassin) 648306 Spitfire Mk. IX top cowl late 1/48 (Brassin) (Brassin) 648334 Spitfire Mk. IXe gun bays 1/48 (Brassin) n)

LF Mk.IXe, 2057 (ex-TE554), 105th Tajeset, Ramat David Air Base, Israel, 1955

LF Mk.IXe, 2010 (ex SL628), 101st Tajeset, Hatzor Air Base, February 1949

LF Mk.IXe, 2079, 107th Tajeset, Ramat David Air Base, Israel, 1954

648112

LF Mk.IXe, 2035 (ex TE575), 105th Tajeset, Ramat David Air Base, Israel, April 1950

648334

www.eduard.com

LF Mk.IXe, 2003 (ex TE531), 105th Tajeset, Ramat David Air Base, Israel, September 1953

LF Mk.IXe, 2058 (ex TE515), 105th Tajeset, Ramat David Air Base, Israel, 1953

# 11111

FULL BUILD: MOTORSPORT MODELLING STUDIO 27 1:20 THEODORE RACING WOLF WR3 â&#x2014;? KIT NO.ST27-TRK001

IN F L O AW H T O L C S TEDDY' ilds Studio 27's Lesley Eyckerman bu R3 Keke Rosberg 1:20 Theodore Racing W

irst, a little historical background to this car. The Theodore Racing Wolf WR3 is a Wolf WR1 chassis-based car and was driven by Keke Rosberg in his rookie F1 year in 1978. Theodore Racing was founded in the 1970s by Hong Kong real-estate millionaire Teddy Yip. The team took part in over fifty Grand Prix with a total of over sixty cars. The difference between a WR1 and a WR3 is that the latter had a longer chassis. I had to search for a long time to find the right reference pictures, because there are

only a few on the internet. Luckily for me I have a good friend who was able to help me with this build and told me about the details, like the white-coloured seat. I always wanted to build this model and when Studio27 released the decal set for it, I knew I had to have it. I saw it built years ago at a friend's house and I wanted to be build at some point, so I was very glad when Studio27 released a full kit of it. It's based on the Tamiya WR1 kit (20064) with new parts, lots of photo-etch, white metal and a nice decal set.

Tamiya Model Magazine gave me the opportunity to build it for their magazine, which i am very grateful for. Thanks Marcus! Let's begin. First off, I started to clean up all parts, including the white metal castings. I removed the flash first and put the parts in a magnetic polisher, which is a great machine to speed up the cleaning process for white metal components. Then I cleaned up all the items needed from the Tamiya kit and gave them a good wash with soapy water. For this article I think it would be easier to

explain what I did step by step, because this was a new experience for me. I have built older F1 Tamiya kits before, but wanted to make sure there weren't any flaws in the kit. So I started with the engine first. The powerplant was painted with Tamiya XF-16 Flat Aluminium; Studio27 have added an extension part for the gearbox, because the chassis of the WR3 is a bit longer than the WR1. It's almost one centimetre long in 1:20 so I had to extend the exhaust pipes too. So I took some 2.5mm plastic

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THING The Ford Cosworth DFV V8 engine takes shape; Tamiyaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mouldings still look superb

The moulded fuel injectors for the DFV powerplant

Studio27â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s kit includes a helmet cast in white metal, a neat touch

The metal casting has been filed flush but still needs proper blending in

Here we see the metal extension piece, added to the body to lengthen the WR3

rod from Evergreen and used the original kit parts to ascertain the length of the extension needed then cut and dry-fitted them to the engine and gearbox. It looked good from the start, so I painted the exhaust semi-gloss black (from Motip) through the airbrush. The gearbox was painted XF-56 Metallic Grey from Tamiya. All other parts were painted black (gloss and semi-gloss) from Motip and then masked-up for their Alclad 2 metallic shades. After the painting was done, I started the assembly of the engine. I replaced

the spark-plug cabling from the Tamiya kit with some 0.5mm electrical wire, because the provided ones were too thick. I added some clear fuel-lines too, using 0.5mm clear bead-wire. I also modified the distributor cap by cutting a piece off and glueing on some plastic card, sanding it smooth after tubing. I added some 0.8mm plastic tube and drilled out the holes to 0.5m so the spark-plug wires would fit. Basically it was real fun to build this DFV engine, because there's a lot of potential for adding extra detail.

Using body putty, the author has smoothed the extension into the kit parts seamlessly

The modified Wolf WR1 monocoque has been temporarily taped together to check for fit

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FULL BUILD: MOTORSPORT MODELLING STUDIO 27 1:20 THEODORE RACING WOLF WR3 â&#x2014;? KIT NO.ST27-TRK001

CHASSIS/COCKPIT V THE The chassis and cockpit are

made out of two parts; the floor and the side-pods. The chassis needed to be longer too, so glued in the provided white metal extension parts and sanded them smooth, but it wasn't smooth enough. To neatly apply filler to only the areas needing treatment, I used a new trick. I laid down pieces of cigarette paper on the cowling to act as a mask and taped them to the chassis. I moistened the paper with some water and let it dry, which causes the paper to shrink around the part. I then applied some 2K polyester filler from Motip over the area needing smoothing out. Once it had cured, I sanded it smooth and removed the cigarette paper from around the cowling. Used some Tamiya putty to fill in the small air holes and sanded the part again. Studio 27 include a small PE set to improve the radiator faces and also new brake cylinders. I undercoated the floor with gloss black (from Motip) then applied Alclad 2 Polished Aluminium and gave it a coat of gloss varnish. After that I dry-fitted the PE bulkhead and white metal brake cylinders. A new steering column is provided but it didn't fit well, so I substituted it with a 2mm aluminium tube and made new arms for the steering out of 1mm brass rod, painting them black. The seat in this car was actually white, so I primed it then gave it a few coats of grey Tenco Proto's fabric and painted it white afterwards. I made the seatbelts from 2.5mm blue silk ribbon and glued them to the seat.

After this was all done, I could start on the body, cowling, front and rear wing. I gave all parts a coat of Tamiya Grey Primer and sanded it smooth, followed by a few coats of Tamiya White Primer. After a few days of drying I masked off the cockpit and painted all parts Pure Brilliant White from Zero Paints and let it dry overnight. I masked off the cowling and painted the other parts with Zero Paints Italian Red.

The engine is nearing completion here, with ignition and fuel pipework in place

BLEEDING PROBLEMS!

After a few days of drying I gave the parts a fine coat of Zero Paints Diamond Finish Clearcoat system. Then, some problems started! Since the plastic was blue from the Tamiya kit, the cowling exhibited a blue sheen in the white part of the cowling. So I sanded the clear flat and re-masked the part. I used some Zero Paints silver to prevent the bleeding. After a few hours again, I applied Pure Brilliant White and varnished it the day after with Diamond Finish again. This didn't work either. The blue only came through when the part was clear-coated, so needed to strip the paint and find a solution. I know Zero Paints have a sealer, but it's only good for red plastic models. So talked to a few friends and one German friend came up with a solution. He provided me with a 2k activated silver. It's a water-based 2k sealer that works great with Zero Paints colours. So I started again; first a few coats of Tamiya grey primer, then the activated silver and yet again the Pure Brilliant White from Zero Paints.

The body parts are being painted. Zero Paints were used to good effect

Some accurate masking was needed where the colours meet

The front and rear wings have been given their sponsorsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; logos

Views of the Cosworth engine, showing the clear fuel lines and ignition harness. The detail here is fantastic. Note the extended gearbox and exhaust system

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The Cosworth is ready to be mated to the car; the rear wing support is in position over the gearbox

The Wolf’s main structure has been painted, decalled and clear-coated; it’s looking great

The basic dashboard of the car. The milky substance over the dials is PVA, which will dry clear and glossy

The distinctive white driver’s seat with full harness being fitted Now it’s starting to look like a racing car. Note the Tamiya tape used to hold the nose section while the cement cures; great care with solvents is needed at this stage!

After a few hours, I masked it off for the Zero Paints Italian Red. I gave it a few coats of clear and waited a few days. Nothing came through this time, so I could go ahead and apply the decals. No problems there, with only the thin stripes being difficult to apply. After a good clean with a micro fibre cloth I gave the parts their final clear coat of Diamond Finish from Zero

Paints. I like these products very much, they offer some good quality paints.

THE HELMET

Studio 27 includes a white metal helmet in their kit, which is a nice feature. I'd never painted one before, but I was up for the challenge, so I polished off the flash first and cleaned it in the magnetic polisher. It was given a coat of Tamiya

The tyres markings were made with metal stencils for a highly authentic appearance

photo-etch primer and then Tamiya White Primer after that. Pure Brilliant White from Zero Paints was airbrushed on, followed by a fine coat of their 2k clear. I applied the decals and clear-coated again. I hand-painted the inside with Desert Yellow from Vallejo and the trim with black from Vallejo. Once dry, I drilled out the holes, cut out the template for the visor and

used 0.13mm clear sheet from Evergreen to form the visor itself. I used two 0.9mm rivets from Model Factory Hiro and some PE screws from Hobby design for the visor pivots.

FINAL ASSEMBLY

I attached the engine with its extended exhaust to the firewall and aligned them, then I glued the firewall/ engine to the floor. Once dry The radiators are being fitted here. Test-fitting is always a good idea, before committing to glue. Below, we see the upper body parts being test positioned prior to painting

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FULL BUILD: MOTORSPORT MODELLING STUDIO 27 1:20 THEODORE RACING WOLF WR3 ● KIT NO.ST27-TRK001 The author experienced some difficulties with the dark blue of the plastic bleeding through the paint, which required a coat of non-reactive silver paint

In preparation for the red rear positions of the upper cowling, the forward section needed thorough masking off

Above and below; With the decals on, the result is extremely smart. Those pin lines were a challenge to apply straight though

V I fixed the cockpit/side-pods

and front wing to the floor and added the white seat with its PE seat-belts. I applied the Willans decals – provided in the kit – to the metal 'strapping'. I glued in the bulkhead with the hand-painted brakecylinders and fitted the steering column as well. I aligned the front suspension and mounted the wheels which I had painted semi-gloss black; Top Studio air valves were then fitted to the rims. I used tyre templates to paint on the Goodyear markings and then fixed the rear wing in place. Not easy, but got the job done eventually. The alignment of the rear wing need to be in three dimensions, so I used a straight corner to align them in all three directions. After that was done I attached cowling to the chassis and added some PE screws from Hobby Design and Dzus fasteners from the Studio27 PE sheet. All that was needed was some final cleaning and preparing a display plate for it, so it can live safely in my display cabinet.

FINAL THOUGHTS

This is a great kit, but like almost every model there are some adjustments to do, to achieve a perfect result. Studio27 went to great lengths to make an accurate kit with an excellent PE set and white metal parts and I enjoyed every second of it; it was really fun. I always learn more with each model project and I like to share my experiences with other modellers. I would like to thank a few friends for helping me and especially TMMI's Editor, who gave me this opportunity. ●

Masking tape was used to make a template to cut the helmet visor

TECHSPEC...

Studio 27’s model transforms Tamiya’s Wolf WR1 into a very different-looking and attractive machine

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STUDIO 27 1:20 THEODORE RACING WOLF WR3 KIT NO.ST27-TRK001 Materials; - Injection-moulded polystyrene, soft vinyl tyres, waterslide decals (Tamiya parts) - Cast white metal, photo-etched nickel-steel, waterslide decals (Studio 27 parts) Paints used; - Zero Paints Pure Brilliant White, Italian Red (similar Tamiya TS8), Gold (wheel-hubs and roll-bar), Diamond Clearcoat - Tamiya Acrylics; XF-16 Aluminium, XF-56 Metallic Grey - Tamiya Sprays; Grey Primer, White Primer - Alclad 2; Polished Aluminium and Chrome - Vallejo Acrylics; White, Black And Red Availability; - Studio 27; www.grandprixmodels.co.uk - Zero Paints; www.hiroboy.com - Vallejo; www.creativemodels.co.uk

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FULL BUILD: SOFTSKIN VEHICLE MIRROR MODELS 1:35 MORRIS C8 QUAD EARLY VERSION â&#x2014;? KIT NO.35402

A QUAD WITH THE MODS! Nick Shuttleworth builds and paints Mirror Models' 1:35 Morris Quad C8 Mk.II/III

he Morris C8 Quad, or to give it a more technical name the 'Morris Commercial C8 Field Artillery Tractor', is one of a group of distinctive Allied soft-skin vehicles such as the Canadian CMP trucks and Pioneer. They have a very distinctive, utilitarian appearance in that their design is based almost entirely around function as opposed to fashion and thus have bags of character. The Morris Quad was used to

tow the 25 and 17-pounder gun and served from the start of the Second World War to the late 1950s, including deployments in Korea and Malaysia. The vehicle came in a number of different marks and body configurations with thousands built for British and Commonwealth Forces. Quads captured at Dunkirk were also used by the Wehrmacht and many demobbed Quads found work as recovery vehicles or in specialist roles.

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The C8 MK111 chassis is an unusual arrangement with the engine and transmission being mounted in a subframe which pivots with the main chassis

The rear of the chassis includes all the winch gear which sits under the floor, again the bristling detail of the axles and chassis can be seen

The level of the detail on the chassis is unprecedented. Even the axle U-bolts are separate

A nicely detailed engine is provided although much of this is hidden under the bonnet

The level of detail crammed into the chassis is amazing, with some care needed in the assembly. The floor is provided in sections with a really delicate join between the front and rear cab floors

The interior includes details such as the seats and transmission levers. The rear floor has box sections assembled from etch which attach it to the chassis

PLASTIC QUADS

KICKING OFF WITH THE CHASSIS

The British Army Quads have been relatively well presented over the years with many modellers enjoying Tamiya’s kit and 25 Pdr and limber combination and also Airfix’s and Italeri’s CMP, both of which were fun kits. However they are all very much 1970s productions. The Mirror Models Quad is thoroughly modern and is the first polystyrene kit of this particular variant, following on from their

popular releases such as the Diamond T Wrecker and Canadian CMP Trucks. The detail of the model is impressive and the parts are cleanly moulded in grey plastic. Fragile items such as bodyshell and photo-etched fret are packaged in a small cardboard box within the kit to keep them safe and a section of fabric is provided for the tilt along with wire for mirror mounts and axle U-bolts.

The kit provides options for both early Mk.II and late Mk.III versions which have different chassis details, so the decision has to be taken which version of quad one wishes to build. This also gives the impression of the instruction sheet being a lot longer than it actually is, so don’t get put off! Construction starts with the chassis which is provided as separate chassis legs and cross members. I chose to model the Mk.III

variant, and discovered that an unusual feature of this vehicle was the engine and transmission are mounted in their own wishbone shaped subframe which pivots into the main chassis. The driveline of the model has a great amount of detail and is quite complex in its construction with each prop shaft having around seven parts and the axles as many as nineteen, with the rear axles even having separate U-bolts that need to be bent from rod.

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FULL BUILD: SOFTSKIN VEHICLE MIRROR MODELS 1:35 MORRIS C8 QUAD EARLY VERSION ● KIT NO.35402

A nicely detailed engine is provided in the kit which has items such as an etched brass fan, scope exists to add items such as HT leads, but unless the bonnet is opened up the engine is mostly hidden. The engine needs to be left as a loose fit until the cabin floor is fitted.

THE BODY

With the chassis complete, construction then moves onto the quad’s interior. The floor of the quad is provided in front and rear sections which are joined delicately just aft of the transmission tunnel. The kit includes seats which are formed from separate cushions, squabs and runners and fit in place tidily onto the floor panel. Also included are the gear levers and air cleaner which drop in place easily and require only a little cleaning up. At the back of the Quad, the rear floor panel has two photo-etched box sections that are fitted in place to give the right gapping between the chassis and the floor, enclosing all the winch gear which is mounted in at the rear. My initial plan was to fit the upper bodyshell along with the bonnet and radiator in one-piece over the top of the rolling chassis, in order to not have to manage the join on the bonnet to the bodyshell. But found in practice, I couldn’t get enough flex in this assembly to clear the top of the transmission tunnel and rear cabin bulkhead. I found a number of test runs were needed to work out how best to get the shell in to place.

The kit includes wheels with separate tyres which are cast in a black, rubber-like material and I took the decision to replace these with a set in resin from LZ models. These were test-fitted at this point to check that the model sat squarely on its four corners, which, despite all the complexity in the construction of the chassis, it did perfectly! The kit was finished off by adding the remaining etched brass parts such as the mudguards, wipers and carriers for the 'flimsy' cans on the rear of the vehicle. The fabric for the tilt was substituted with some Milliput that was rolled thinly, then sculpted to shape over the roof.

PAINTING AND WEATHERING

The kit provides four painting and decal options; two for the Mk.II and two for the Mk.III, which are a nice mix of UK, North West Europe and North African schemes. I opted for a 'Mickey Mouse Ear' camouflage for the Mk.III. After some consideration of how to mask the camouflage pattern, decided to prime first in black applying a coat of Vallejo Black Surface Primer after masking off the transparencies and sealing the roof. For the camo masks, I scaled-up the kit painting and decal instructions on a photocopier to be the same size as the model. I then laid the photocopies over some wide decorator's masking tape which was applied loosely to a dark-coloured cutting mat. I drew over

The body was fitted to the chassis to test the fit. Careful manipulation was needed to pull it over the top of the bulkhead and transmission tunnel at the front

The alignment of the shell was checked by looking at the gaps around the chassis

The bonnet was test fitted to the front of the body and chassis to check fit and how much filling would be required. The replacement wheels were fitted in place to check whether adjustment was needed to the axles to get the quad to sit properly The interior was painted in MiG Ammo Acrylics and weathered with oil colours

Mini Review... EDUARD VALENTINE PHOTO-ETCHED DETAILS (FOR TAMIYA) ITEM NO.36359, 36360, 36361 www.eduard.com www.creativemodels.co.uk

Tamiya’s newly-tooled, 1:35 Valentine tank gets three photo-etched brass detail sets from Eduard’s latest batch of releases; general detail parts that improve items like brackets for the jacking block, stowage box latches plus a set of track guards and front/rear mudguards. The second set provides full-length desert-type side shields and the third is smaller but very useful set that folds up into a box/bracket for the WW2 ‘flimsy’ fuel cans

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With the interior complete, the shell was fitted in place then the etch mudguards and bumper were added

The kit includes etch brackets and flimsy cans for the rear of the quad

provides four painting â&#x20AC;&#x153; Theandkitdecal options... â&#x20AC;? The kit transparencies were masked before priming and the roof sealed off

The quad was primed in Vallejo Black Primer to make masking the camouflage pattern easier, masks were cut from masking tape using photocopied instructions as a guide

The model was checked with the masks removed to see if any correction was needed

A mix of Tamiya Acrylics was sprayed on for the SCC 15 Green

The quad was given a coat of Mr Color Super Clear Gloss before the decals were applied with Micro Set/Sol

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FULL BUILD: SOFTSKIN VEHICLE MIRROR MODELS 1:35 MORRIS C8 QUAD EARLY VERSION ● KIT NO.35402

V the camouflage lines on

the instructions with a sharp pencil, which left an imprint in the masking tape against the dark background of the cutting mat, that I could then use to cut out the stencils using a sharp knife. The stencils were then applied to the model. The SCC 15 Green was sprayed on using a mix of Tamiya Acrylics with highlights, fading and shadows applied using mixtures of the paints. Once I was happy, I applied a coat of Mr Color Super Clear Gloss as a base for the decals, which were applied using Micro Set/Sol. The

kit decals settled down a treat and they were sealed in with a coat of Tamiya Clear, before a colour-wash was applied. After the excess 'wash had been removed with cotton buds and tissues, the model was given coat of Alclad 2 Flat Varnish. The dust effects were added to the model using stencils and Lifecolor acrylics, whilst the wheels received a slurry mixture that was made from Mig Pigments and oil colours, wiped off to leave dirty, dusty looking wheels. The tilt was airbrushed with Tamiya Acrylics, before small details such as the headlamps and mirrors

were fitted to the model. The Quad was completed by masking a windscreen wiper pattern onto the front screens and applying a light coat of gloss varnish, before the windscreen wipers were fitted to complete to build.

CONCLUSION

With the build complete I feel that this kit is a really excellent piece of engineering and research and captures the look and complexity of the Morris Quad really well. The parts are all very well detailed and you can see a genuine enthusiasm for the vehicle in the quality and design of

the kit. My only concern is the involved nature of the chassis construction which is mostly hidden once the kit is completed, to the extent I think some modellers may be put off starting the kit. However, to me it’s a winner, it’s a soft-skin topic, which only now we seem to be getting a good flow of kits on, and it’s British – what else could I want? ● Availability; Mirror Models are widely available from good model shops and online. www.pocketbond.co.uk

This kit is a really excellent piece of engineering and research and “captures the look and complexity of the Morris Quad really well... ”

The model was weathered with a combination of acrylics and pigments and the tarp, made from rolled Milliput, was airbrushed using Tamiya Acrylics. A wiper pattern was made using masking tape cut with a circle mask, before a light coat of gloss varnish was sprayed on

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KIT PREVIEW

FOX MODELS 1:24 SD.KFZ.2 KETTENKRAD AND SD.ANH.1 TRAILER KIT NO.K024001

ON TRACK IN 1:24 Fancy a 1:24 Kettenkrad for your display cabinet?

he Kettenkrad is a well known oddity of a military vehicle, kitted many times over the years by numerous manufacturers in pretty much all the major modelling scales. Studio27 are best known for their full resin and metal kits of competition cars, as well as accessories and decals, so when they launched this 1:24 model of the Kettenkrad under the new ‘Fox Models’ name, we were (pleasantly) surprised. As with the company’s model cars, it comes in the form of a cast resin main structure with white metal castings for the smaller parts such as suspension, tracks, front fork and internal detailing. The Sd.Anh.1 trailer is formed entirely from cast

metal, with flexible resin used for the tyres. A well stocked photo-etched brass fret provides sheet metal components, louvred engine covers, grilles, internal items and other small parts. The tracks come as individual links that are simply crimped together to form a continuous loop, a straightforward solution to a potentially fiddly operation. The kit is extensively detailed, coming with a replica of the Opel engine and all the driver’s controls, of which there are quite a few. The decal sheet offers a large number of license plates for both Wehrmacht and Luftwaffe deployment, as well as dials, NSU logos, divisional markings and data panels. Fox Models

have taken a very different approach to this model and younger military modellers might not be familiar with the materials, but once the parts have been prepared (there’s minimal clean-up, even with the cast metal parts), assembly can proceed, using cyanoacrylate and/ or epoxy glues. Fancy a Kettenkraftrad in scale larger than 1:35, but nowhere near as vast as Italeri/Esci’s 1:9 kit? This one is for you, if you have deep enough pockets for the £160 asking price. (www.hlj.com) ● AVAILABILITY; Fox Models kits are available from www.foxmodels.net

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www.creativemodels.co.uk Tel: +44(0)1354 760022

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FULL BUILD: US WW2 ARMOUR TAMIYA 1:35 US TANK DESTROYER M10 ● KIT NO.35350

ONWARD TO PARIS Marc Génaux adds some small but significant extra details to Tamiya's 2016 kit of the US M10 Tank Destroyer and depicts it as a machine of the 2nd Division Blindé (Armoured Division) 'Leclerc' from the 1944 liberation of Paris 22

aris, 25th August 1944. The M10 Tank Destroyers of the 3/4 RBFM (Régiment Blindé de Fusiliers Marins) commanded by the Ensign de Vaisseau Durville, start their engines. M10s entitled 'Sirocco', 'Cyclone', 'Simoun' and 'Mistral' move towards the Place de l'Etoile. As Simoun and Sherman No.66 'Picardie' descend the Champs Elysees, they

surprised by the sight of a Panther posted on the Place de la Concorde, at the entrance of the garden of the Tuileries. After a few moments of hesitation, the TDs descend the avenue, Simoun on the left and Sirocco on the right. Some shells are fired. Simoun puts two in the Panther's mantlet, while Picardie hits the engine, starting a massive conflagration. Arriving on

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RIS AND LIBERATION! the other side, Sherman No.40 'Douaumont' engages squarely with the Panther which, it seems, has already been abandoned by its crew. This slice of history, taken from Volume 2 of 'The 2nd DB in the Liberation of Paris' (Editions Histoire & Collections) made me want to represent a TD of the famous 2nd DB of Leclerc. After carefully studying the photos, my choice was Simoun. It is

not the best known vehicle, but it also has a right to its moment of glory.

TAMIYA'S TD

After revisiting some Shermans in the catalogue, Tamiya had the excellent idea in 2016 to take a new look at the M10 Tank Destroyer. The company's original TD kit was released in the 1960s and although it's nice collector's item now,

For a perfect assembly of the lower hull, a small engineer's square will be helpful. Strips of masking tape also help to hold the panels in alignment while cement is applied

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FULL BUILD: US WW2 ARMOUR TAMIYA 1:35 US TANK DESTROYER M10 ● KIT NO.35350

A classic technique from Tamiya; sprockets and idler wheels mounted on polycaps, which allow them to be fitted at the end of construction once painted. Note the quality of the details, including on the inside

The running gear is excellent as standard. As with any Sherman-based machine, the bogies are a bit tedious to assemble. The adjustment of the half-shells is not easy to achieve and the tedious moulding-line removal session cannot be avoided

The rear panel can be assembled alone before integrating with the chassis. It is thus easier to redo certain weld seams with putty. The exhaust fairing can be assembled and disassembled without glue, very helpful when painting the exhaust later

The track cleats (grousers, or spuds) and their storage racks are beautifully detailed and the author regretted not having been able to fit them, but it’s important to be accurate: none of the TDs observed during the liberation of Paris had them mounted, so they went into the spares box for a future model

Here we see the additions made to the driver's hatch; opening handle, upper part of the periscope in the raised position (more convenient to see from the inside when driving closed-up), brass ring and L-shaped hook to support the hatch when in the raised position and some foundry marks (Archer decals).

The pioneer-tools are in place, but they are still missing their fixing straps that will pass under the 0.3mm brass footman-loops. These were made around a plastic wedge, the ends flattened with a single blow from a jeweller’s hammer. It is necessary to leave enough space under them to allow the lead sheet straps to pass under

The hatches for the driver (right) and radio operator (left). It was necessary to totally remove both (closed) periscope covers and replace them with 'open' resin parts; if the hatches are open and the periscopes fitted, the covers must be 'popped up' with the vision block in view, an oddity of the kit.

Some small improvements were made to the sub-assemblies inside the turret; straps on the barrel-rods that go against the engine bulkhead, the white plastic-card holder for the Thompson submachine gun and the slightly thickened the seat-pads of the folding seats

The gun is easy to assemble, with some design tricks hiding joints, especially on the breech area. There are missing some bolts that need adding, as do the return springs of the manual release lever. The bolts come from an LAV kit’s wheels, which in turn were replaced by a resin set!

The final stage of the bogie assembly was to drill a few holes on one side and to add bolts added on the other, as well as on the top. The bolts are recycled, sliced from old kit wheels or ditched models before they end up in the trash

A special feature of this TD: a rounded steel grab-handle under the armour bosses on the front of the tank. Using a razor-saw blade, the author carefully cut off the two studs which were then glued back over the handle, which had been fabricated from 0.4mm brass rod

The foundry marks on the transmission cover come from the American artisan producer ‘Archer Fine Transfers’. They are 3D resin decals that are applied direct to the model like normal waterslide decals, using setting solutions. Although applied to the kit’s bare plastic here, it is recommended to apply a thin layer of primer paint first, so the markings have something to ‘grip’ on to

The cast-steel texture of the mantlet is superb, but it lacks the characteristic markings of the foundry that produced the piece. The Archer decals were used again, copying the motif of the Saumur TD. In this photo, the author has not yet added the weld seams to bases of the lifting rings

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The inside of the turret is clearly visible, so the author added some surprising omissions, such as the M18 azimuth indicator located in front of the turret traverse-wheel. A few pieces of plastic card, a circular part from the spares box, some recycled bolts and the job was done. The author also remade the locking system. A lot of bolts are missing, and were added according to references

Here we see the righthand turret half with rotation locking lever (on the left, behind the gun mount) and the locking systems for the commander and loaderâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s seats. The Thompson submachine gun is now secured by a lead sheet strap, as are the yet-to-be-fitted rounds of ammunition

The shell containers on the hull sponsons are one-piece mouldings with the support strap embedded in the part. For realism, the author cut these away and added his own from lead strips. The floor stowage boxes were given beefed-up hinges using plastic card

The armoured transmission cover was given foundry A first fitting-session for the crew; obviously, nothing is wrong and they fitted perfectly. The author used marks using the Archer 3D decals. Filler was used a little epoxy putty to achieve perfectly smooth joints where the arms and legs met the figuresâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; bodies around the towing eyes and the step was refined

The counterweights' cast-steel texture was enhanced using Mr Surfacer 500, with some ultra-fine sand added. Several applications with a diluted mixture were applied until the desired effect was achieved

Friulmodel set No.ATL-47 replaced the vinyl items provided. After some clean-up with a file, 0.5mm holes were drilled into the connectors of each link and then 4mm pins (few hundred, cut from brass rod) were pushed in, ensuring a robust set of tracks, ready for weathering

The author used an incredible number of photo-etched loops and buckles (Aber) to make the fixing straps. Their fabrication is quite easy; thin strips of lead foil were patiently threaded through them, using tweezers, of course

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FULL BUILD: US WW2 ARMOUR TAMIYA 1:35 US TANK DESTROYER M10 ● KIT NO.35350

Friulmodel supplies tracks with some connectors angled at 30 degrees, for the curved sections around sprockets, idlers and first/last road wheels). The author treated these parts with a chemical blackener before assembly so as not to confuse them with the standard castings with 90 degree connectors. Once each track side was finished, it was given the same chemical treatment all over, using AK Metal Burnishing product which quickly blackens the remaining links

The 2016 release is “ completely new, sharing

no parts whatsoever with the older model...

”

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V as an accurate scale model

for the 21st Century, it is obsolete. The 2016 release is completely new, sharing no parts whatsoever with the older model. For once, let's start with the decals; markings for just two American vehicles will be found in the box, which are not enough to satisfy a French modeller's needs! It was therefore be necessary to look to aftermarket producers to find markings for the 2nd DB. Jap Models (which is a French brand, not Japanese!), offer four M10 TD markings, including my famous Simoun. The true highlight of the Tamiya decals are the fine and precise markings for

the 76mm shells, which give them a stunningly realistic appearance. I would have preferred the beautiful injection-moulded, link-and-length tracks as included in some of the latest kits, but with the M10 we are provided with flexible, synthetic rubber items which, whilst being 'state of the art', will still have a visible join-line when fitted. For my model, I opted for metal tracks by the famous Italian/Hungarian 'Friulmodel' brand, because I thought my TD was worth it! The wheels come from Tamiya's latest Sherman kit, with all the reinforcing rivets on the perimeter and detailed reverse-faces.

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FULL BUILD: US WW2 ARMOUR TAMIYA 1:35 US TANK DESTROYER M10 â&#x2014;? KIT NO.35350

V Polycaps are inserted

into the idler wheels and sprockets to allow a solid fit. I was surprised not to be able to mount the roadwheels once the hull was complete, as I do normally. Indeed, the inclined upper hull sides (B2 and B20) reduce the space so much once cemented in place, that it is impossible to slip on the sprockets. It is therefore a good idea to follow the assembly sequence in the instructions! The suspension bogies are well detailed without an overly complicated partsbreakdown. However, it takes a long time to remove the mould-part lines and achieve invisible join lines 'edge to edge'. Similarly, there are still eight bolts and four holes to be drilled on each unit. The perfect injected-moulded bogie is yet to come. The advantage of the open turret of the TD is that it reveals the interior and main gun. Tamiya have done this well; when your gaze plunges into the model's innards, you will discover lots of interesting detail. There are some small omissions to that need adding however, as you will see during assembly. The three crew members have just enough room to sneak through the obstacles; Tamiya advises not to cement the shell that the loader has to put in the barrel, and I can confirm that it is better to follow the instructions again here, otherwise it is 'mission impossible'.

FINAL THOUGHTS

On the top of the hull, I used all the armour bosses (parts A7), regretting that I could not use the grouser storage racks because no M10 of the 2nd DB was so equipped. The pioneer tools are perfect and it was necessary only to add straps to them, not reproduced in the kit. What to say to conclude? The assembly of this kit is pure modelling happiness, so when will you be building yours? â&#x2014;?

TECHSPEC... TAMIYA 1:35 US TANK DESTROYER M10 KIT NO.35350 Materials; Injection-moulded green polystyrene, soft vinyl tracks, polycaps, nylon cord, waterslide decals Paints used: - Tamiya Acrylics; X-22 Clear, X-27 Clear Red, XF-10 Flat Brown, XF-15 Flat Flesh, XF-49 Khaki, XF-51 Khaki Drab, XF-69 NATO Black - Alclad; 105 Polished Aluminium, 109 Polished Brass, 120 Gun Metal - Winsor & Newton oils; Burnt Sienna, Vandyke Brown, Raw Umber - Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color; 87131 Black Accessories used: RB Model; 35B13 Browning M2, Friulmodel; Tracks Sherman T51 Type, Aber; Chains 35A016, Buckles and Straps 35A021, Lead Sheet References; US WW II M10 and M10A1 Tank Destroyers, Tankograd Technical Manual 6028 Availability; Tamiya models and accessories are widely available from good model shops and online. UK import and distribution by The Hobby Company Limited; www.hobbyco.net

In bad weather, the crew could install a protective tarpaulin that fastened onto folding supports (three on the front of the casemate roof and four on the back of the turret). It rose 31cm above the turret, which created an appreciable under-cover height of 1.92m

The tow rope is provided as a piece of nylon cord; it was replaced by an item from Karaya Model in braided brass (diameter 0.6mm)

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FULL BUILD: LARGE SCALE MOTORCYCLE MODELLING TAMIYA 1:6 HONDA CFR1000L AFRICA TWIN â&#x2014;? KIT NO.16042

KING OFF THE ROAD! Philippe Devos gets to grips with Tamiya's sublime new 1:6 Honda Africa Twin

n the 1980s, Honda developed the Africa Twin with the avowed goal of winning the Paris-Dakar, the most difficult rally raid in the world. This was achieved after five years with the victories of Cyril Neveu in 1986 and 1987 and those of Orioli and Lalay the following two years. The production of the 650 XRV Africa Twin retail models would begin in 1988 and the range would end in 2003 after some technical developments. Thirteen years later, Honda resurrected its trail range by creating the extraordinary CFR1000L. The company's best engineers and designers worked on the project and the machine that emerged garnered huge amounts of praise. Its engine, technical features (eco-mode, sport or manual, automatic DCT clutch), the quality of ride and braking, fuel consumption, on road and off-road performance all added up to create an instant best-seller when it arrived in dealers on January 16th, 2016.

RACE AGAINST TIME

This spring, I had the pleasure to be among the first to open the box of Tamiya's brand-new 1:6 Africa Twin kit. In spite of myself, I imposed a time constraint because of imminent work at my home which required me to empty the place and, for a time, pack away my modelling paraphernalia (not a small matter!) So, I had only three weeks to complete the model's assembly. I immediately started with the fairings, which are fortunately few in number, to allow the paint the maximum time to dry. The remainder of the tasks were broken down roughly as follows: one week of preparation of the parts (de-sprueing and de-mould lining, assembly and sanding), one week of painting with plenty of work on the rims and one week of assembly, tweaking fairings and details. Three to four hours of modelling work per day (morning and evening, when the whole household was asleep) proved completely feasible, which proves that were no hidden vices in the kit to slow me down. The fairings didn't around the frontal optics as well as I'd hoped but I remain convinced that this was a mistake on my part. Oh, and yes, I still managed to lose one of the four indicator flashers down my kitchen sink (which is surely floating out towards the ocean at the time of writing!) I asked amongst my network of modelling friends for a resin copy. So thank you to Bob 'Dexter' who made the new part, as well as Gilles 'Cordarus' and 'Domi' of the Mautomobile forum who spontaneously helped me out of this bad situation. A hop-up chain set from Tamiya with separate moulded links (12674) was put on sale at the same time as the bike kit; it will look great on the model but it arrived too late for me to use on the review model. The use of the set is only partly postponed however, because I had great difficulty choosing between the blue and red colour schemes (the blue version modelled here is definitely the most majestic but the red has a sportier side that I really like). So, I might just have to build another kit for that chain set! With this kit, we are in the presence of an exceptional model of a beautiful machine. Tamiya's model is superbly well engineered and detailed but is and accessible to all. So get off the beaten track and build an Africa Twin! â&#x2014;?

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TMMI 264 October 2017

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FULL BUILD: LARGE SCALE MOTORCYCLE MODELLING TAMIYA 1:6 HONDA CFR1000L AFRICA TWIN ● KIT NO.16042

The fuel tank needs some skilful masking-up in order to achieve neat colour boundaries between the white and blue areas. A layer of TS-45 Pearl White has been applied over an undercoat of white primer here and the carefully trimmed-out masks are being positioned

Care needs to be taken during mask positioning. Tamiya’s paper tape allows the modeller to adjust the pattern without any loss of adhesion

Once the mask templates are on, the remaining white part was completely back-masked with strips of regular Tamiya tape. Be careful to seal the interstices that might allow in overspray, ruining the beautiful white!

Very fine layers of TS-89 Pearl Blue were applied one after the other, until the correct colour saturation was achieved. A final 'wet' layer will allow the smoothest finish possible

An useful but not essential operation; the decanting of the contents of a Tamiya spray directly in the cup of the airbrush. Using a small piece of drinking straw, the flow of paint is easily channelled. It is necessary to let the paint stand for a minute or two, to allow the propellent to boil off so as to avoid spray 'sputtering'. If the paint were applied directly from the can, it would give the same result but would use up a greater quantity of paint

After twenty-four hours, the masking tape was gently removed. To prevent the paint from peeling off, it is prudent to fold the strip back on itself during removal. This ‘cleanly’ cuts the skin of paint that extends over both the kit part and the masking tape. After a few more days of drying, a light sanding helps to reduce the step formed by the paint thickness

The decals are very easy to apply, so long as you are careful not to tear them. They are very fine and large, but cover well. They must be slid evenly onto a well-wetted surface and coaxed into place without stretching them. They take on the shape of the moulding and a controlled application of softener (alcohol, X-20A thinner) will only be necessary at the end of drying

Tightly stretched, the decals are very shiny and hardly require a layer of varnish. If you do decide to varnish, use your product with care, as the decals tend to react to the solvent in the spray

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The saddle was painted with the same blue as the fuel tank, but matt varnished. The masking tape strip was applied to the recessed seam and trimmed with a new blade, making it possible to obtain a perfect mask for the layer of (XF-85 Rubber Black). The satin appearance was obtained by simply rubbing the matt paint with a soft cloth

All of the painted fairings are seen here; there are only a few and their preparation was quite fast, but their large size can multiply the smaller problems (dust particles, paint sagging, application of decals) and can take the modeller longer than expected

Mini Review... AMMO by Mig Jimenez ACRYLIC MUD (MUDDY GROUND), ACRYLIC WATER (SLOW RIVER WATERS) ITEM NO.A.MIG-2105, A.MIG-2204 www.migjimenez.com

Just in from AMMO by Mig Jimenez are two products that are formulated to form â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;moistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; elements in dioramas, ie; mud and water. The mud is a glutinous acrylic paste that is mid-brown in colour and carries a fine grit in suspension. It can be applied with an old brush and dries to a tough finish. The water is also an acrylic paste, tinted to create silt-carrying river water as seen in the waterways of Vietnam in contemporary photos of the war.

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FULL BUILD: LARGE SCALE MOTORCYCLE MODELLING TAMIYA 1:6 HONDA CFR1000L AFRICA TWIN â&#x2014;? KIT NO.16042

The rest of the assembly, although extremely straightforward, is time consuming due to the number of parts to be prepared. Here, the engine block alone consists of about fifteen parts. The cementing points are very discreet, Tamiya's designers placing them in areas not readily visible

The chain is very intelligently designed in two halves, each with half the link pins positioned in a staggered sequence. A simple micro-drop of liquid cement on each pin gradually creates a perfect and very solid assembly

After their clean-up, sorting the parts by colour takes a long time. Referring to the instructions, each part was given a precise shade. But it takes a lot of space on the workbench! Note the enormous pile ready for TS-63 NATO Black, ubiquitous on the frame

Very few parts will require a second colour coat. Some complicated masking will occasionally be required but as everything can be seen on a model of this size, then it must be done! The results are worth the effort

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The characteristic colour of the frame was achieved by applying matt varnish over the black metallic colour of TS-40. This creates an interesting effect that reflects the composite materials used by Honda. The same process was used for the silencer but with TS-48 Gunship Grey

The exhaust's heat-staining, subtle in reality, was reproduced with very light applications of well diluted X24 Clear Yellow and X26 Clear Orange. Using the airbrush, it was necessary to patiently spray each zone with very low air pressure until the desired effect built up

The colour of the clutch housings was a mixture of X-31 Titanium Gold and X-34 Metallic Brown. To use the finer-grain TS sprays, it was necessary to find a replacement for the X-34 since only the Titanium Gold exists (TS-87). A mixture of brown and gold can be applied in limited quantities to maintain the gloss of the titanium. The result is rather convincing

The reflectors received adhesive aluminium foil on their reverse faces and were then fixed to their mounting plates with double-sided adhesive. This assembly method leaves no traces of glue and results in highly realistic components

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FULL BUILD: LARGE SCALE MOTORCYCLE MODELLING TAMIYA 1:6 HONDA CFR1000L AFRICA TWIN ● KIT NO.16042

The rims were de-sprued with care. A flat file was used to fully remove the all traces of waste plastic

The perfect assembly of the two rim halves requires aligning the two marks moulded into each half. A lick of liquid cement quickly bonds the two elements

Slight cement overspill on the visible side of the joined rim halves can be sanded away once dry, taking care not to damage the spoke ‘bulges’ in the process

The spokes were separated from their support sprue with care and attention. Side-cutters were used to cut flush to the part, reducing the need to remove excess plastic. A new scalpel blade (Swann-Morton, of course) is essential to obtain clean cuts at the ends of the spokes. Gentle sanding completed the work. Fortunately, the plastic used by Tamiya is both flexible and strong and the spokes were able to withstand the handling

The eight sets of spokes were painted Semi-Gloss Black (TS-29 aerosol) then each spoke was hand-painted with Citadel Mithril Silver. Masking the hub or spokes in order to use the airbrush seemed too hazardous, or at the very least time-consuming

According to the instructions, the tweezers were covered with two sections of thick vinyl tape to avoid damaging the fragile silver paint; it works very well. Each radius is inserted into its location on the rim without striking a blow

The front rim was assembled on the supplied jig using the moulded-in alignment marks. Two pieces of tape hold it all together

Inside the hubs we find moulded-in numbers, to guarantee the spoke discs are used in the correct order. Discs 1 and 2 were paired and then installed first on the rim, making sure to align the marks with the small arrow moulded on the hub

Liquid cement was sparingly applied around the inner surface of the rim and allowed to dry for a few hours before continuing

Spoke-discs 3 and 4 were added to the assembly, on top. They only fit in one position, so the spokes are automatically aligned. You can clearly see in the photo how the spokes are twisted before being properly fixed in place

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Be sure to check the cemented areas are fully hardened before removing the rim from the bracket, as it remains remarkably fragile during the rest of the assembly. At the front of the image, we can see the inner part of the jig that will be used for the rear rim

Do not throw away whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s left of the assembly jig because it is essential when fitting the tyre, supporting the wheel while the tyre is stretched over the rim. Since it is not possible to fix the rim to the jig with tape this time, it is advisable to work on a flat surface and not â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;in the airâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; as we see here. In addition, bear in mind not to press on all the spokes and the hub, but work only around the circumference of the rim

Same goes for the rear wheel but the central part of the jig dedicated to it is a solid disc. The fixing of the brake disc and the mounting of the tyre will then be easier to achieve

As is his style, the author immortalised the start of final assembly with a 'family photo' of all the 'Twin's prepared sub-assemblies and individual parts.

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FULL BUILD: LARGE SCALE MOTORCYCLE MODELLING TAMIYA 1:6 HONDA CFR1000L AFRICA TWIN ● KIT NO.16042

Perhaps the trickiest operation of the final assembly stages is the positioning of the engine within the frame. The instructions guide the modeller on how to achieve this, the whole lot being secured with micro-screws

All screws and fasteners were stored in a compartment box to prevent them from getting lost and so the correct ones are used the appropriate areas

Exploded view of the rear shock absorber; a dozen pieces in total with a very realistic colour palette. The assembly by screws and a threaded piston rod is very solid

An impressive engine/ frame structure – of more than 20cm in length – is achieved very quickly after having fixed the rear fender, shock absorber, centre stand and air box in place

A close-up of the radiators which are composed of magnificent parts that will sadly disappear later: fan, grilles, casings etc.

The two chrome guards If everything goes well, we get an imposing, were fixed with Tamiya 25cm-long set that will take its place on the Extra Thin Liquid Cement, righthand side of the model but only after the bare plastic was exposed by scratching of the plating from bonding areas. This is the most perilous moment of the assembly! The exhaust system is packed with bright, highly visible metal parts that must be carefully secured

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The fork tubes are held in place by a long through-bolt that traps the springs in the dip tubes. You will need a long, thin flathead screwdriver to hold it with one hand while the other uses the supplied Allen key to tighten under the calliper bracket. The suspension is functional but do not play too much because that the spokes of the rim are extremely fragile

The model now requires the use of the support provided by Tamiya. Made of transparent plastic, it is as unobtrusive as possible. The stand is well designed and very stable thanks to the four support points: the legs and crossbar of the centre stand (which is fixed firmly to the shock absorber, directly to the frame) and the motor protection plate, also held by several screws to motor and frame

Some handling is still necessary for further assembly operations. The headlight housings and of the airbox already give the bike a robotic appearance

The handlebar is about ten centimetres in length and is a real pleasure to build and to fix on the motorcycle. The handgrips are easy to paint and provide an extremely realistic effect. The dashboard consists of a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;windowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; covering the decals, sandwiched between two frame parts; simply perfect

When installing the fairings, the small tabs that were supposed to hold the front ends around the optics had too much play to stay in place, surely an accumulation of glue or paint during assembly, so they were glued permanently. It is a shame because the fairings are no longer removable. Take note of it for your project

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FULL BUILD: LARGE SCALE MOTORCYCLE MODELLING TAMIYA 1:6 HONDA CFR1000L AFRICA TWIN â&#x2014;? KIT NO.16042

Tamiya's little trick: a magnet is glued behind the Honda badge, allowing it to be fitted without the risk of glue marks

The saddle is the last item to add. It tilts to the level of the tank and is fixed on the rear mudguard

A small dedication here for to the talented Bob Facon of Dexter Model who graciously saved this project from semi-disaster by making resin copies of the indicator body, the original of which the author lost down kitchen his sink. One lost part out of 400 isn't too bad, but it had to be a really obvious one!

TECHSPEC... Materials: Injection-moulded polystyrene, chromed parts, translucent, micro-magnets, metallic springs, soft vinyl tyres, vinyl sleeve, adhesive masks, adhesive foam, waterslide decals, tools Paints used: Tamiya Sprays: White Primer, Grey Primer, TS-30 Aluminium, TS-87 Titanium Gold, TS-14 Black, TS-29 Semi-Gloss Black, Silver TS-83 Metallic Silver, TS-94 Metallic Grey, TS-38 Gun Metal, TS-42 Light Gun Metal, TS-17 Gloss Aluminium, TS-63 NATO Black, TS-27, TS-26 Pure White, TS-56 Brilliant Orange, TS-48 Gun Ship Grey, TS-13 Clear, TS-80 Clear Flat Tamiya Acrylics: XF-85 Rubber Black, X-26 Clear Orange, X-23 Clear Blue, X-24 Clear Yellow Tamiya Enamel: Black Panel Line Accent Color Citadel Acrylics: Black, White, Mithril Silver, Boltgun Metal, Bright Red Prince August Acrylics: Aluminium, Steel Tools and products: Swann-Morton Scalpels No.10 and 11, wet and dry paper 600, 800, 1000, 1200, Tamiya Compound Coarse, Fine and Finish, Micro-mesh Polishing Pads, Mini drill with drills, Microsol decal softeners, Tamiya Masking Tape 6mm, 18mm and 40mm, Aizu Masking Tape 0.4mm, 0.7mm, 1mm, 1.5mm, Neo Masking Fluid

The CRF1000L is a worthy heir to the Africa Twin models that preceded it. Tamiya has perfectly replicated this splendid machine in 1:6

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New Releases

Please turn to page 60 for the

Accessories

The latest photo-etched sets, resin parts, figures and accessories to enhance your scale models...

Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in the box?

AD; ACETATE DIALS, CC; CAST CERAMIC (PLASTER), CMA; CAST METAL ALLOY, CP; CHROMED PARTS, CPS; CLEAR PLASTIC SHEET, DT; DRY TRANSFER (DECALS), EM: ELECTRIC MOTOR EPS; EXTRUDED PLASTIC SECTION, F; FABRIC, IM; INJECTION MOULDED (PLASTIC), ITL; INDIVIDUAL TRACK LINKS, LCC; LASER CUT CARD, LLT; LINK AND LENGTH TRACKS, MC; METAL CHAIN, MMA; MACHINED METAL ALLOY, MR; METAL ROD, MW; METAL WIRE, MT; METAL TUBING, NM; NYLON MESH, PE; PHOTO ETCH, PEBM; PHOTO-ETCHED BADGES/MIRRORS, PCM; PRE-CUT MASKS, PMP; PRE-ASSEMBLED METAL PARTS), PS; PAPER STRIP, R; RESIN, SVT; SOFT VINYL TYRES (OR TUBING), VF; VINYL FIGURES, VFP; VACUUM FORMED (PLASTIC), WC; WOVEN CORD, WD; WATERSLIDE (DECALS), WS; WOODEN STRIP

TAMIYA, JAPAN

www.hobbyco.net Tamiya are always releasing interesting bits and pieces amidst the bigger, more high-profile kit releases and the following items have recently arrived at TMMI. We particularly like the holographic stickers! TAMIYA LOGO STICKERS (HOLOGRAM) 67374 TS-99 IJN GRAY (MAIZURU ARSENAL) 85099 TAMIYA FINE LAPPING FILM #4000 ABRASIVE (3PCS.) 87185 TAMIYA FINE LAPPING FILM #6000 ABRASIVE (3PCS.) 87186 TAMIYA MULTIPURPOSE CEMENT (CLEAR) 87188 AIRBRUSH CONNECTOR JOINT (FEMALE, S/S) 74558

VALLEJO, SPAIN

www.creativemodels.co.uk Well-known Spanish acrylic paint makers Vallejo have come up with five new box-sets for desert-based AFVs, plus a very useful pack containing six shades for the painting of tracks and wheels. The US desert MERDC set is interesting, as is the British 'Caunter' scheme, a contentious and much debated subject. All paints come from Vallejo's airbrushable 'Model Air' line and each bottle is 17ml is volume. DAK COLORS 1941-44 (71.207) IDF COLORS FROM 1957 TO PRESENT (71.210) CAUNTER BRITISH COLORS 1940-1941 (71.211) US MODERN DESERT COLORS (71.209) MERDC DESERT COLORS (71.212) WHEELS & TRACKS (71.213)

MISSION MODELS, USA

www.missionmodelsus.com As well as armour colours and matched shades for aircraft camouflage, Mission Models also offer metallics. They include a faded aluminium finish for airframes, a heat-stained burnt iron for exhausts and engine components, a steel tone for un-oxidised surfaces and copper, useful for the pipework in a Spitfire's engine bay. The paints are low-toxicity acrylics and are formulated for use with Mission Models' own thinner. They apply beautifully via airbrush, dry quite quickly and can be overpainted with spirit-based weathering products, oil paints and enamels. Give them a try! METALLIC BURNT IRON 1 (MMM-001) COLD ROLLED STEEL (MMM-002) FADED ALUMINIUM (MMM-003) COPPER (MMM-004)

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New Releases

Please turn to page 60 for the

Accessories

The latest photo-etched sets, resin parts, figures and accessories to enhance your scale models...

Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in the box?

EDUARD, CZECH REPUBLIC

www.eduard.com www.creativemodels.co.uk www.hannants.co.uk Italeri's impressive 1:32 F-35A Lightning II kit comes in for a triptych of brass sets this month, with metal detailing for the cockpit interior, airframe exterior and wheel/gun bays. These additions add the touch of sharpness that's sometimes missing from Italeri's otherwise sound mouldings, making the sets a worthy purchase for anyone contemplating this big kit. Tamiya's 1:48 Heinkel He219 'Uhu' from the 1990s gets a set of very neat resin wheels, as does Airfix's forthcoming 1:48 Supermarine Walrus Mk.I kit. Another great month for Eduard! 1:200 HMS Hood deck.pt.5 (53193) for Trumpeter 1:72 Kfir C2 (73606) for AMK German U-boat flags (53198) Me262A-1a (73600) for Airfix 1:48 Walrus Mk.I interior (49848) for Airfix Walrus Mk.I exterior (48929) for Airfix German U-boat flags (53196) Bf110F (49833) for Eduard Super Seasprite cargo interior (49847) for Kittyhawk 1:32 F-35A interior (32910) for Italeri F-35A exterior (32404) for Italeri F-35A wheel/bomb bays (32405) for Italeri P-40N upgrade set (32406) for Eduard/Hasegawa Sopwith F.1 Camel (32911) for Wingnut Wings Spitfire Mk.IXc exterior (32407) for Revell Spitfire Mk.IXc interior (32912) for Revell Spitfire Mk.IXc landing flaps (32408) for Revell BRASSIN 1:72 CBU-97 (672128) He219 wheels (648328) for Tamiya 1:48 Walrus Mk.I wheels (648343) for Airfix Su-34 wheels (648326) for Hobbyboss Spitfire Mk.IXe gun bays (648334) for Eduard SE.5a wheels (648333) for Eduard 1:32 Spitfire Mk.IX wheels 5-spoke (632107) for Revell MASK SETS B-17G anti-glare panels (CX485) for Airfix

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FIAT500F Mod.1968

The small protagonist of a great italian history

Highly detailed model Photoetched parts Rubber tires Opened or closed top Opening car doors Front&rear opening bonnets Steering wheels Working suspensions Video Tutorial 100% new moulds

1:12 scala scale

Fiat Official Licensed Product

The model can be realized in the Anglo-Saxon version with right drive

kit modĂ¨le rĂŠduit 4703 model

Ask your local distributor or contact: Italeri S.p.A.- via Pradazzo, 6/b 40012 - Calderara di Reno - Bologna - Italy - Phone +39 051 31 75 211 - email: italeri@italeri.com

KIT PREVIEW TAMIYA 1:16 US MAIN BATTLE TANK M1A2 ABRAMS DISPLAY MODEL ● KIT NO.36212

MIGHTY M At last, Tamiya have created a 1:16 M1A2 Abrams! Here, we review the static display version, which will be followed by the 'Full-Option' radio controlled version

ext in Tamiya's 1:16 'Big Tank' series is a kit that depicts the current stalwart of US forces, the M1A2 Abrams. The M1 Abrams has been around since the early 1980s, receiving constant upgrades to ensure that it stays at the cutting edge of military technology. M1A2s were introduced from 1992 and developed as next generations of the tank, chock-full of the front-line technology and bringing the M1 into the digital age. They featured depleted uranium armour, a modified commander’s cupola and more and saw action in the conflict in Iraq in 2003.

ABOUT TAMIYA'S NEW MODEL

•This is a 1:16 scale, static plastic (and metal) model kit of the M1A2 Abrams. The version shown here is the non-motorised release, intended for modellers who do not require the radio controlled features. •The form of the M1A2 with its flat turret and hull armour is expertly

recreated, complete with depictions of the textured, anti-slip surfaces of the real tank. •The model is based around a tough, pre-folded aluminium hull tub. Cast metal parts are provided for the drive sprockets, idler wheels, suspension components and more. •In the box you'll find durable, pre-assembled engineering-grade plastic, double-pin tracks secured with metal pins. Rubber track-pads feature. •The gun barrel is aluminium for strength and realism Photo-etched parts are included to recreate the engine deck screens and turret rear basket with complete accuracy.

areas could be improved; the hull's access-hatch handles are moulded solidly and the bolted strips that run along the tops of the side-armour panels are missing, but these are the fun things to add; no major corrections are required. This is a mightily impressive model that will dominate any display cabinet. We can't wait to see the full-RC version! ●

MIM'S IMPRESSION

Inside the vast kit box we find the enormous upper hull moulding which is quite staggering in size. The upper turret moulding is also a big piece of plastic, rendered with eye-popping detail. As with any kit, some

The hull of the M1A2 is truly huge in 1:16 and takes up quite a bit of workbench space

The turret is a massive moulding and is covered with fantastic surface detail

The model is based around an aluminium-sheet tub, which comes pre-drilled for suspension parts

Primer will be needed when painting the exposed metal surfaces

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Y M1A2 MUSCLE

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New Releases

Kit Reviews

A selection of the latest full kits in plastic, resin, metal and more!

What’s in the box?

AD; ACETATE DIALS, AP; ACRYLIC PAINT, CC; CAST CERAMIC (PLASTER), CMA; CAST METAL ALLOY, CP; CHROMED PARTS, CPS; CLEAR PLASTIC SHEET, DT; DRY TRANSFER (DECALS), EM: ELECTRIC MOTOR EPS; EXTRUDED PLASTIC SECTION, F; FABRIC, IM; INJECTION MOULDED (PLASTIC), ITL; INDIVIDUAL TRACK LINKS, LC; LIQUID CEMENT, LCC; LASER CUT CARD, LLT; LINK AND LENGTH TRACKS, MC; METAL CHAIN, MMA; MACHINED METAL ALLOY, MR; METAL ROD, MT; METAL TUBING, MW; METAL WIRE, NM; NYLON MESH, PB; PAINT BRUSH, PCM; PRE-CUT MASKS, PE; PHOTO ETCH, PEBM; PHOTO-ETCHED BADGES/MIRRORS, PMP; PRE-ASSEMBLED METAL PARTS), PS; PAPER STRIP, R; RESIN, SVT; SOFT VINYL TYRES (OR TUBING), VF; VINYL FIGURES, VFP; VACUUM FORMED (PLASTIC), WC; WOVEN CORD, WD; WATERSLIDE (DECALS), WS; WOODEN STRIP

ZVEZDA, RUSSIA

BOEING 737-800 CIVIL AIRLINER www.hobbyco.net SCALE 1:144 MATERIALS; IM,WS ITEM NO.7019 Zvezda’s kit of the Boeing 737800 is a new-tool for 2017 and from an inspection of the kit parts, its modernity is easy to see. The mouldings are very crisp and exhibit subtle raised detail across the wings and fuselage and the ancillary parts; engines, undercarriage, separate rudder, horizontal stabilisers, wingtip extensions and other small external fittings are beautifully formed. The passenger cabin windows are dealt with by clear-moulded strips that are fixed from the inside of the fuselage halves before they are mated, not the ideal solution but no-one has come up with anything better so far! Markings are for ‘UT Air’, a Russian airline headquartered at Khanty-Mansiysk Airport.

TAMIYA, JAPAN

GERMAN 3.5TON TRUCK AHN W/3.7CM FLAK 37 AA GUN www.hobbyco.net SCALE 1:35 MATERIALS; IM,WS ITEM NO.32410 Tamiya have made good use of ICM’s excellent AHN truck, originally a French design by Renault that was pressed into German service after the invasion of Europe in 1940. The kit is extremely finely detailed, with a ladder chassis, engine, cabin with openable doors and a fabulously complex rear cargo deck that comes with cover hoops and ‘wood’ planked floor effect. The kit also includes Tamiya’s towed Flak 37cm anti-aircraft gun which, although from the later 1980s, is still a gem of a production that embarrasses many a kit from more recent times. Together, ICM’s Renault and Tamiya’s Flak make an irresistible combination that will look very interesting and unusual on a competition table and in a display cabinet.

Superb, modern detail, excellent mouldings, unusual airline scheme

Bringing together and new truck and old gun has worked wonders here, all in a ‘must-have’ Tamiya box!

Windows always a challenge with airliner models

Vinyl truck tyres not to everyone’s taste

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New Releases

Kit Reviews

A selection of the latest full kits in plastic, resin, metal and more!

What’s in the box?

ITALERI, ITALY

SD.KFZ.2 KLEINES KETTENKRAFTRAD TYP HK101 www.hobbyco.net SCALE 1:9 MATERIALS; IM,WS ITEM NO.7404 The heritage of Italeri’s huge Kettenkrad can be traced back to the Esci release back in the ‘70s, but don’t worry, this is a very good thing indeed! Esci were ahead of their time and created some marvellous models that, whilst showing their age now, stand up quite well to today’s standards. And let’s face it, who else has created a Kettenkrad in 1:9? The kit box is large as you’d expect and inside are sizeable grey sprues carrying the myriad parts that make up this charismatic little WW2 German vehicle. The suspension is fully workable thanks to individual swing-arms and leversprings and to take advantage of this, the track is articulated too. The fourcylinder Opel petrol engine is depicted in full and it’s a little model all in itself. The driver’s controls are a curious mixture of motorcycle and car, with levers, pedals and handgrips, all of which are reproduced in 1:9 very well here. A rubber tyre is supplied, along with markings for three examples serving in Russia 1944 (x2) and Italy 1944

A wonderfully large, complex and engaging kit, full of detail and workable parts Don’t forget, it dates from the ‘70s, so it won’t fall together like a modern Tamiya kit

EDUARD, CZECH REPUBLIC

P-40N WARHAWK www.creativemodels.co.uk www.eduard.com SCALE 1:32 MATERIALS; IM, PE, R, PCM, WS ITEM NO.11104 Eduard have utilised Hasegawa’s lovely mouldings here, the core parts of which only go back as far as 2008, so it’s a thoroughly modern model. But it wouldn’t be a special Eduard production without some tasty extras would it? So in this limited edition release we have Eduard’s wonderful resin wheels, exhaust banks (with divinely delicate hollow outlets) two sheets of photo-etched brass (one of which is pre-coloured for the instrument panel and seat harness) and of course a new sheet of eye-popping decals by Cartograf. But that’s not all, oh no. If the box-top artwork was a contributing factor in the purchase of the kit, there’s extra joy inside; an even larger version of the illustration in poster form! It’s by Romain Hugault and once framed will make a great addition to a wall in one’s modelling room. Still space on that wall? There’s also a threedimensional, embossed metal plate in the box too!

Excellent kit and top quality detail additions in resin and photo-etched brass. Nice poster and metal display plate too Not cheap, but it is a limited edition

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FULL BUILD: SCIENCE-FICTION FILM MODEL DEAGOSTINI 1:43 STAR WARS MILLENNIUM FALCON PT.1

Pt.1

SHE MAY NOT LOOK LIKE MUCH, BUT SHE'S GOT IT WHERE IT COUNTS, KID Jim Hatch begins the construction of DeAgostini's huge 1:43 Millennium Falcon: the framework

was first became acquainted with Star Wars at the very outset in 1977. I was one of those kids who pestered his parents to go and watch what was to become the most successful film franchise of all time. I collected all the figures and toys and Star Wars was very much a part of my childhood. Hey folks, believe it or not, that was forty years ago. Whilst the years have rolled by, the fascination with the original film trilogy has never left me. How ironic that in this anniversary year that I decide to tackle one of my most ambitious projects yet, the DeAgostini Millennium Falcon kit. This kit was collected as a weekly magazine part-work over the last 2yrs, although it can be bought now as a single kit. It’s not cheap though, weighing in

at a hefty £900. It’s also a substantial model in actual weight, with it tipping the scales at around 25lbs. The designers of this kit had access to the movie prop from The Empire Strikes Back, and this model was based on this. To help with their work, Stephen Dyszmo of SD Studios joined the team to ensure the model’s general accuracy. Whilst this beast is 1:43 scale, it is in fact 1:1 to the ESB movie prop! DeAgostini’s model boasts functioning hyperdrive lights, detailed cockpit, hold and corridors, plus a functioning ramp. However, I will be adding some extra goodies to this in the form of 3D-printed parts, PE from Paragrafix, and both LED and fibre-optic lighting. So, time to see if we can make Han Solo and Chewy proud of this effort.

I’d been collecting the DeAgostini Millennium Falcon magazine part-work for two years and stashing in boxes in the attic. Here is one of the four boxes of parts!

Getting ready to assemble the lower hull. A number of these issues concern interior details that I’ll look at in a subsequent article

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SPONSORED BY

A zinc alloy is used to create the many frame parts, and they all fit perfectly. This test section belongs to the upper hull

DeAgostini made a number of improvements during the course of issuing the magazine. Here you can see the new cockpit test-fitted to the corridor tube. The original sits next to it

BUILDING THE UPPER AND LOWER HULLS

If the model is built as per the instructions that are supplied at the end of each magazine issue, then I will be diving around this build so much that it won’t be too cohesive. The plan is therefore to build the main upper and lower hull dishes first and include the kit’s stock lighting, and then look at the aftermarket lighting and interior for Part 2 of this article. Subsequent issue(s) will see the model being finalised, painted and weathered. For now, the process of emptying the many zinc-alloy metal frames from their protective sleeves, had begun. Each frame part is superbly made, with sharply-defined edges and also numbered with an identifier for either top or bottom frame (i.e. TF01 or BF01 etc.). The screw holes in these have also been tapped. The first forty magazine issues have the parts for the lower hull and the following forty approximately, concern the upper hull. Other detail parts supplied within these issues are now carefully stored away until later in the build. The final magazine issues deal with construction of the mandibles, amongst other things. Construction of the lower hull is a relatively straightforward affair, with the first sections of the radial frames being connected to each other directly, with

the use of double and quad connecting plates, dependent on location. It was decided during design to add a number of radial stiffening strips to the hull, running from the centre to the outer edge. These are supplied in two parts each, with a connection block holding them together with four screws. The frames themselves are bolted together with hundreds of small screws. After two or three radial sections are bolted together, I opted to fit the central turret ring, to add some rigidity to the frames. All subsequent frames are now fitted to the hull, with the exception of the hull frame that contains the ramp.

LIGHT EMITTING DIODES

The ramp frames are assembled separately, and when complete, it’s time to add the first electronic component to the Falcon. This comes in the shape of a self-adhesive LED strip with wire leads and electrical connector. The tape backing is removed from the LED strip and this is then threaded through the framework and attached in the direction shown. Leaving this over to one side, it’s time to look at the first styrene parts for this model, namely the access ramp and hull parts for this section. A sprue is included which contains the moulded hydraulic legs and a series of metal parts are included for the ram pistons and hinge. With the styrene parts

A series of connection plates and screws are used to fasten the frames. You can also see the metal parts are numbered for clarity

A section of the upper hull plating is test-fitted to the frame. Again, everything is a perfect fit

The Falcon has a ramp which works via remote control. This is the section of framework onto which the various electronic parts will fit

There is some play in the position of the frames before you tighten the screws fully. It is crucial that you make sure everything is aligned

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SPONSORED BY

FULL BUILD: SCIENCE-FICTION FILM MODEL DEAGOSTINI 1:43 STAR WARS MILLENNIUM FALCON PT.1

V removed from the sprue and

then cleaned up, the ram hinges are first connected, using superglue to hold the pins in situ and thread-lock for the pistons. Thread-lock is also used on the hinge screws, where the brackets will rotate independently of them. This is important, or it’s likely they will work loose over time. I didn’t like the hull colour of the access ramp, so this was airbrushed with Gunze RLM66 which is primarily used for Luftwaffe interiors. Masking this was fun, but the effort was worth the final result. The ramp was now fitted via hinge to the hull plating and the whole lot fitted to the metal framework. The actuator motor was then secured into place with four screws, and the arm connected to the ramp using a supplied metal pin. It’s important not to force the motor at this point or test it run without being connected to the ramp. I will test the electronics at a later stage. Ramp section now completed, the whole unit was offered up to the lower hull and then secured with screws, completing the lower hull circular frame. Now it was the turn of the myriad of hull plates to be fitted.

DON'T LOCK IT YET!

I was asked why I didn’t add thread-lock to the frame screws at this point, but the answer becomes pretty obvious. There are many hull plates to add to the model at this stage, and they have to be applied in a specific order due to overlap etc. Doing it in the wrong order will increase your blood pressure. This plating also doesn’t follow the frame pattern, with the various parts overlying numerous metal frames in a haphazard way. Tolerances are very tight here, with any small deviation in the internal framing causing plates not to sit flush to each other. This is no real issue, as this problem can easily be solved by slackening the framing parts ever so slightly. The adjustment is barely noticeable, but it does work. Once the panels are secured with a truck-load of self-tapping screws, the frames within can soon be tightened again. Now, with a few hours to spare, the frame screws are laboriously removed a few at a time and thread-lock added to the connection. Consider this as a tedious insurance policy against your Falcon becoming a rattling hulk of

All electronics are supplied ready for installation. This is the ramp light that will operate when the ramp is lowered

The LED strip is self-adhesive and simply sticks to the zinc framework. If in doubt, you can degrease the metal first

Familiar territory here as we prepare the plastic parts for assembly. These are related to the ramp area

Metal hinges are used here, and the motor is geared to control speed. Micro-switches are built into it to control level of movement

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FULL BUILD: SCIENCE-FICTION FILM MODEL DEAGOSTINI 1:43 STAR WARS MILLENNIUM FALCON PT.1

V junk! All screws are now

fully secured and that part can thankfully be forgotten. There are a number of large superstructures that will be screwed to the lower hull, but those will be tackled very shortly as I need to look at the installation of the extra aftermarket lighting that I will add here, necessitating the drilling of holes in this precious work. For now though, work proceeds with the upper hull. This is constructed in the same way as the lower hull except that there are large cut out features within the frames, used for removable access panels to the corridor, battery compartment and hold etc. I found I needed to be far more careful with the upper hull, as until the last moments of assembly, it seemed a little more fragile than the lower hull. As a note here, I did find a very small number of the larger

radius frames to be a little flat in curvature, and not matching the adjacent frames. This alloy, whilst very hard, isn’t too keen on being bent, and will likely break if you force it. To reapply the curvature to these parts, I gently manipulated the parts in between my fingers and kept checking things against the model. These slight errors are easily fixed. One addition to the upper hull is the installation of the battery box. This is first fitted to its securing clip by means of a section of double-sided tape that is included in the kit, and the box is then fitted to a hidden section of hull plating via two nuts and bolts. Note the pre-weathering of the hull plates. That looks fine if you aren’t ok with an airbrush, but I certainly won’t be leaving it like that. This model will have a full paint job as befits a model of this standing.

I present to you the completed lower hull, and it’s both large and heavy. The model weighs about 12kg when complete, minus aftermarket

October 2017 TMMI 264

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I found that numbering the hull plates made it far easier to immediately identify the parts instead of the tiny moulded numbers on them

Whilst this model is pre-weathered etc. I will be painting it. The ramp is first masked and then Gunze RLM66 is airbrushed over it

With the ramp and external plastic parts installed, this now completes this assembly

Without a doubt, this is an imposing model. This is the lower hull frame, minus the ramp assembly section. Photographing this will be a challenge

The fun now begins as the external hull receives its plastic plating. All parts are secured with self-tapping screws and they must be fitted in sequence so as to prevent fit problems

Here is the lower hull, minus the superstructures that will be added around the time I install the additional lighting sets

The electronics of course need power. Here is the internal battery pack. An adapter can also be used to power this model

The whole rear engine deck of this model is designed to be removable so as to access electronics etc. This area can be seen here with its plastic joining plates

07/09/2017 09:57

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Back onto familiar territory with sprues and glue as I begin to tackle the various recessed areas on the hull

Three recessed bays are fitted to the upper hull. Notice two forward tank hulls here?

THE FALCON GETS ITS TEETH/JAWS

I seem to be in more familiar modelling territory here as I build up the recessed bays that fit within both top and bottom of the hull, and mandibles. These are based around a sparsely detailed well for which there a detail sprue is included.

I considered it safe to build these in their entirety and then paint them along with the rest of the model. You may notice parts here associated with other model kits

More sprue parts for the lower hull central mandible. Once installed, these sections will be embellished with further detail

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s interesting looking at the sprues, as you can clearly identify parts that are clearly from car engines and armour. Modellers who made film props used to have a stash of kits from which they would use random details and apply them to the hulls of sci-fi models. Take a look at others online and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll see all sorts

As with the hull plates, the mandibles are also constructed around a series of metal frames, screwed together with connecting plates

Tamiya Extra Thin cement is used to assemble plastic sprue parts, with the grab time being super-fast

of familiar details such as tank barrels and track links planted onto these. A number of these sprue parts are saved for hull detailing later on. A quick tip here for you regarding these plant-on items, whether on the hull or in the recessed bays: do NOT remove the moulding seams! I know this

There are a total of eight of these recessed bays to be fitted to the mandibles, and all of them are different

There are two underside recessed equipment bays, packed with detail

goes against the very grain of what we do as modellers, but this model is supposed to represent the movie prop, and when that was built, these details had visible ejector pin marks and seams. Now, I do want to tie this in with improving things in some areas, as we will see later when we tackle the

With the main frames fitted to the external plating, the zinc alloy side frames are installed, again using thread-lock for all screws

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FULL BUILD: SCIENCE-FICTION FILM MODEL DEAGOSTINI 1:43 STAR WARS MILLENNIUM FALCON PT.1

The metal frame construction of this model makes for an extremely sturdy model, and this mandible is quite heavy in itself

As a small diversion, I decided to build the Falcon’s rectenna. This part is large and should give you a sense of scale

exterior of the Falcon. The mandibles themselves are constructed in the same way as the main hull, with upper and lower metal frames that are plated with external styrene cladding. A small number of screws are left out at this stage, later to be used for securing the recessed equipment bays. There are two each of these on both the upper and lower faces of both mandibles.

The mostly complete mandible can now have its stock electronics fitted. A wiring loom is included to supply light to the forward face

The rectenna is adjustable using these pivot mounts. Care is needed here so as not to accidentally glue the free-moving parts

Detail in these is totally different, and is designed to accommodate the numerous lengths of plumbing that run around the outside of each mandible. These pipes will be fitted in the latter stages of assembly, before paint hits the external hull. In typical modeller fashion, this is where I considered painting these recessed bays, but I really had to tear myself away from my known

As a taster for Part 2, this is hold area of the Falcon, in some need of aftermarket. Watch how I tackle this next time

These are the plating parts for the upper hull and the superstructures for the lower hull. You will also notice the upper turret part

So that the interior can be displayed, a section of the upper hull needs to be removable. This completed area is fitted via magnets

methodology. All of these bays, whether on the hull or mandibles, can now be fitted to the model permanently using the long self-tapping screws provided with the kit. I will paint these in the final stages, along with the hull exterior and weathering.

LET THERE BE LIGHT

Along the edges of each mandible are fitted a series of metal side frames. These are now fitted with the countersunk screws and a touch of thread lock glue. The mandibles also have lighting fitted within them, supplied by DeAgostini. Each LED is screwed to the inside of the forward mandible plate, and this then fitted to the front side. The LEDs will be plugged into the circuit once the model has its main assembly. Now, we can’t leave these mandibles looking like this, so it’s time to fit the side panels. These just pop into place using locating pins and the frame holes. You can of course

add a little glue. Extra sprue parts are added to the exterior, simulating the detail you see in the movies. For now, I need to plan this, make a few purchases and get right back to you for the next instalment. My thanks again to Mark Adams for the inspiration and the goodies he sent me for this project, more of which you will see in Part Two of this build. ●

TECHSPEC... DeAgostini 1:43 Millennium Falcon Materials; Zinc alloy, Falcon-colour styrene Paints used; Gunze RLM66 Accessories used; None, at this stage of construction Other stuff; Thread-Lock adhesive, Tamiya Extra Thin Cement, Swann-Morton Scalpel No.11, Jeweller’s screwdriver set Availability; This model is available as a weekly subscription from DeAgostini, or as a full kit purchase from the same. www.buildmillenniumfalcon.com

October 2017 TMMI 264

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MIG JIMÉNEZ, AMMO BY MIGUEL JIMÉNEZ www.migjimenez.com ISBN; 978-84-945130-8-4 As we all know, Miguel Jiménez gave the armour modelling world a Verlindenesque shot of excitement and vitality in the early 2000s with his distinctive and visually appealing style. He has published various books on his techniques and this, a hefty softback volume on the painting, surface effects and weathering of vehicle interiors, plus the application of the model’s base colours, is his latest. Within the 156 pages (including covers) we can follow various model subjects as they are painted and treated with myriad ageing treatments, imbuing the kit parts with realism and dramatic visual impact. The photos are super-clear and reproduced large on the page so that the reader can really see what’s going on; a vital and sometimes overlooked aspect of this type of publication. It’s very much a visual guide, the captions just confirming what we can see going on in the images and it makes for great inspiration and reference for a multitude of finishes and techniques. MN

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RON MACKAY, SQUADRON SIGNAL PUBLICATIONS Widely available from good booker sellers. For further information; www.adhbooks.com The DeHavilland Mosquito is an evergreen modelling subject and with Tamiya’s sublime 1:32 model of the FB Mk.VI, we have the best possible kit to get our teeth into. No matter how good the model, references are always vital and this affordable (approximately £15) book on the aircraft is a good starting point. Within its eighty-four soft-covered pages we are treated to page after page of wartime photos of varying versions in action, in the ETO and PTO, airframes under construction, in flight shots, undergoing maintenance and being re-armed. It’s not strictly a walk-around production but there is a handful of close-up photos towards the back of the book showing some interesting details. Scattered throughout are some attractive colour profiles as well as scrap views of weapons systems and other elements of the Mossie’s design. A useful and well-priced introduction to the famous wooden wonder. MN

60 October 2017 TMMI 264

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● SYLMASTA Halland House, Dale’s Yard, Lewes Rd, Scaynes Hill, West Sussex, RH17 7PG Tel; +44(0)1444 415027, Fax; +44(0)1444 458606. Email; sylmasta@aol.com

● PANZERWRECKS PO Box 164, Heathfield, Sussex TN21 8WA, UK www.panzerwrecks.com ● PARAGRAFIX 104 County Street, Suite 101 Attleboro MA 02703 USA Tel: +1 508.431.9800 M-F 9am to 4pm EST http://www.paragrafix.biz pgms@paragrafix.biz ● PEGASUS HOBBIES (Selected items via Pocketbond in UK) 5515 Moreno Blvd, Montclair, CA 91763 USA www.pegasushobbies.com ● PLUS MODEL (Creative Models in UK) Jizni 56, 370 10 C. Budejovice, Czech Republic. plusmodel@plusmodel.cz www.plusmodel.cz ● POCKETBOND Bachmann Europe PLC Moat Way Barwell Leics LE9 8EY Tel 01455 841756 info@pocketbond.co.uk ● POL MODELS 64 Cumberland Road, Acton, London, W3 6EY UK polmodels@aol.com ● PRO-ART MODELS www.proartmodels.be ● QUICKBOOST www.quickboost.net ● REVELL UK Revell UK, Unit 10, Old Airfield Industrial Estate, Cheddington Lane Tring, Herts, HP23 4QR, UK ukbranch@revell.de ● RZM PUBLISHING (Greenhill Books In UK) PO Box 995, Southbury, CT 06488 USA Tel; (USA) 203 264 0774 www.rzm.com

● IWATA AIRBRUSHES The Airbrush Company 79 Marlborough Road (East) Lancing Business Park Lancing, West Sussex BN15 8UF Tel: +44 (0)1903 767 800 www.airbrushes.com.

● SCHATTON BARRELS Industriestrasse 6, 94347 Ascha, Germany, Fax 09961 910 7826 www.modellbau-schatton.privat.t-online.de email; modellbau.schatton@t-online.de

● MODELLING TOOLS Uncle Jacks, Lavendon Road Olney Bucks, MK46 4HH, UK www.modellingtools.co.uk Tel (+44) 01234 711980

● SQUADRON.COM Squadron Mail Order 1115 Crowley Drive Carrollton, TX 75006 - 1312. USA

● MODUNI VERSAND GMBH Böttgerstr. 2-14, 65439 Flörsheim, Germany Tel; 06145 5456-0 Fax; 06145 5456-11 info@moduni.de www.moduni.de

● ITALERI (The Hobby Company in UK) Via Pradazzo, 6, I-40012 Calderara Di Reno, Bologna, Italy, Tel 051 726037 www.italeri.it

● JADAR-MODEL Zielna 8/103, 00-108 Warsaw, Poland www.jadar.com.pl hobby@jadarhobby.waw.pl

● SCHUMO KITS Axel’s-Modellbau-Shop Axel und Bernd Schulze OHG Braustraße 2a 37170 Uslar, Germany Phone: +49 (0) 5571 919 100 Fax: +49 (0) 5571 919 101 www.schumo-kits.com

● SCHIFFER BOOKS Schiffer Publishing, 4880 Lower Valley Rd, Atglen, PA, 19310 USA www.schifferbooks.com ● SCHIFFER BOOKS in UK Bushwood Books, No.6 Marksbury Avenue, Kew Gardens, Surrey TW9 4JF, UK. Tel +44(0)20 8392 8585, +44(0)20 8392 9876, email; info@bushwodbooks.co.uk

● TAMIYA JAPAN Tamiya, Inc., 3-7 Ondawara Suruga-ku, Shizuoka 422-8610 Japan www.tamiya.com ● TAMIYA UK; THE HOBBY COMPANY LIMITED Garforth Place, Knowlhill, Milton Keynes, MK5 8PG, UK Tel; 01908 605686 Fax; 01908 605666 enquiries@hobbyco.net www.hobbyco.net ● TANK MODEL, RUSSIA www.tank-model.ru www.afvmodeller.com ● TANK WORKSHOP 345 Wynbrook Drive McDonough, GA, 30253 USA Tel; (770) 573-1409, Fax; (770) 573-0479 www.tankworkshop.com ● TRUMPETER www.trumpeter-china.com Pocketbond in the UK ● TUNGSTEN DRILLS Allan Sidney No.6, Park Gardens, Holbeach, Lincolnshire, PE12 7PJ allansid@aol.com ● U-MODELS 1103, rue de Feucherolles 78630, Orgeval, France www.u-models.com ● VALLEJO (Creative Models in UK) Acrylicos Vallejo, SL Apartado 337 08800 Vilanova i la Geltrú, Barcelona, Spain Tel; (34) 93 893 60 12 Fax; (34) 93 893 11 54 www.acrylicosvallejo.com ● WORLD WAR TWO BOOKS Military History Books Ltd (Mail order address, callers by appointment) 2 Cysgod Y Bryn, Aberystwyth, Ceredigion, SY23 4LR, United Kingdom Tel; 01970 623778 sales@worldwartwobooks.com www.worldwartwobooks.com ● WIDESPREAD SOLUTIONS Unit 1 Levens Hall Park, Lund Lane, Killinghall, Harrogate, West Yorkshire HG3 2BG, UK. Tel; +44(0)1423 522836 Fax; +44(0)1423 525656 info@graphicair.co.uk www.graphicair.co.uk

■ Please mention ‘Tamiya Model Magazine’ if you make contact with any of the companies listed above - thanks!

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NEXT ISSUE

The next issue of TMMI is November 2017 (No.265), on sale October 19th

LOW AND DEADLY

A second look at Tamiya's superb 1:35 Jagdpanzer IV L/70

THE ULTIMATE DRIVING MACHINE Modelling Fujimi's 1:24 BMW Z4 Marc VDS from the 2014 Le Mans 24

BLACK BEAUTY

Ebbro's stunning 1:20 1982 Lotus Type 91

...AND MUCH MORE, OF COURSE! Due to the many factors that can influence the appearance (or non-appearance) of a model in TMMI, the items listed above are shown on a provisional basis. We endeavour to bring you these articles, but please be patient if they do not feature! Thank you for your understanding.

Order online now at; www.tamiyamodelmagazine.com ISSUE No.264 OCTOBER 2017 PUBLISHED ON SEPTEMBER 21st 2017 Editor; Marcus Nicholls Consultant Editor (USA); Stan Spooner, Editorial Assistant; Matt Benfield Publisher; Alan Harman Graphic Design; Alex Hall TMMI Website; The Doolittle Media web team Advertising Manager; Sean Leslie Office Manager; Paula Gray Administration Manager; Hannah McLaurie Administration Assistant; Julie Lane Model Completion Mentor; Percy Veer Printed by; Henry Stone Ltd., Oxfordshire, UK Distributed by; Seymour Distribution, 2 East Poultry Avenue, London, EC1A 9PT Tel; 020 7429 4000 Newstrade; Select Publisher Services, 3 East Avenue, Bournemouth, BH3 7BW Tel; 01202 586848 Email; tim@selectps.com Tamiya Model Magazine is published on the third Thursday of each month by Doolittle Media Ltd. Editorial enquiries; editor@tamiyamodelmagazine.com All other enquiries to; enquiries@doolittlemedia.com Tamiya Model Magazine, Doolittle Mill, Doolittle Lane, Totternhoe, Bedfordshire, LU6 1QX, UK. Telephone; +44 (0)1525 222573 Editorial enquiries;+44 (0)7904 635 694 Fax; +44 (0)1525 222574. Back Issues; From £4.20 Inc. P&P. Back issues from #75 onwards (excluding #79) are available from the UK address below, or online at www.tamiyamodelmagazine.com

Reproduction in part of any text, photograph, or illustration without written consent from the publisher is strictly prohibited. While due care is taken to ensure the contents of Tamiya Model Magazine is accurate, the publishers and printers can not accept responsibility for errors and omissions. Advertisements are accepted for publication in Tamiya Model Magazine only on Doolittle Media’s standard terms of acceptance of advertising, copies of which are available from the advertising department. Please write to the address below. All editorial, advertising, circulation and subscription enquiries should also be directed to the UK address below.

Subscription rates are; 1 year (12 issues); £44 UK, £56 Europe, £69 Worldwide Binders; £8.50 + P&P (UK-£2.45, Europe-£4.45, Worldwide-£6.45). All prices include postage and packing. For all orders, please call (UK) +44(0)1525 222573 or visit www.tamiyamodelmagazine.com Digital subscriptions available from www.pocketmags.com

✁

TO MY NEWSAGENT... CONTACT INFO: Tel: +44(0)1525 222 573 Fax: +44(0)1525 222 574 Editorial enquiries: +44(0)7904 635 694 Doolittle Mill, Doolittle Lane, Totternhoe, Bedfordshire, LU6 1QX, UK www.tamiyamodelmagazine.com Editorial email: editor@tamiyamodelmagazine.com Other enquiries: enquiries@doolittlemedia.com www.tamiyamodelmagazine.com

Please order Tamiya Model Magazine International for me and reserve/deliver a regular copy starting with issue:-

Name: .............................................................................................................................................................................................. Address: ...........................................................................................................................................................................................

The paper used on this title is from sustainable forestry

............................................................................................................................................................................................................ ............................................................................................................................................................................................................ ............................................................................................................................................................................................................

Telephone: .......................................................................................................................................................................................

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The Editor’s Page... Can Tamiya’s newest figure set be a rival to resin productions?

! E R U G I F O G

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1:35 Wehrmacht Tank Crew Set (35354)

amiya’s figures have improved beyond all recognition in recent years and the latest to arrive are absolutely fantastic. The set comprises four full and four partial figures, and are designed to work with Tamiya’s 1:35 tank and AFV kits. They are moulded in grey polystyrene over two sprues and come with side-arms, separate headphones, binoculars and a set of decals for uniform insignia. Optional heads and hats are offered and the poses are super-realistic. As good as resin figures? Getting very close.

See you again next time

editor@tamiyamodelmagazine.com

Editor's Choice

AMMO BY MIG LUCKY VARNISH (SATIN) www.creativemodels.co.uk www.eduard.com Finding a varnish that offers a consistent finish can be tricky and many have come and gone. Just in from AMMO by Mig is ‘Lucky Varnish’ in a satin finish, an acrylic product that promises reliable and high quality results. It’s pre-thinned for airbrushing and from my initial tests, it appears to be extremely fine grained with no clogging in the airbrush. I have yet to try the matt varnish and as these materials naturally contain more matting agent, they are more prone to blocking up the tiny internal spaces of an airbrush. So far, this stuff seems very good indeed and I’ll be trying it it on some model projects over the coming weeks and months.

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