Rock solid

Valley Climbers Will Find A Full Range Of Options

BY ASHLEY LODATO

Although rock climbing is not a sport for everyone, those who climb understand the appeal. The airy feeling of being off the ground, feet perched on a sliver of granite, fingers crimping a rocky nub. Dancing up a rough face, light steps, friction making possible your upward progress. Forearms pumping at the top of a sustained vertical slab, hands gritty with chalk and sweat. The thrill of finally mastering a sequence after repeated attempts.

The Methow Valley is a launching pad for anyone who wants to wander in the backcountry, finding peaks and figuring out how to stand on top of them. If this sounds like your ideal summer and you have the experience and time to make that dream a reality, then start poring over the Beckey guidebooks (Volumes 2 and 3 of the Cascade Alpine Guide series by the late and legendary North Cascades climber and mountaineer, Fred Beckey). You can find these at Mazama’s Goat’s Beard Mountain Supplies shop (information below).

Fred Beckey was notoriously irreverent, but in his pragmatic way he articulates why people climb: “I don’t know what inspires me; I can’t explain it. It’s hard to put into words. Why does anyone do anything? I like to do it; it’s fun.”

■ W HAT TO KNOW

The Methow Valley’s climbing popularity is showing itself in impact to natural areas. Increased use is causing damage to sensitive environments, especially in the Washington Pass area. A series of improved trails and signage is an attempt to mitigate human impact in this fragile area. Always stay on the trail and leave no trace. Only park and camp in approved areas. Plan several options for outings, and if the parking lot at Plan A is full, proceed to Plan B. com, (509) 996-3194, 48 Lost River Road, Mazama.

North Cascades Mountain Guides (NCMG) offers low-ratio climbing trips with world-class, certified guides. Want a family day at the crags? Or maybe you’re interested in experiencing multipitch climbing. NCMG has you covered. NCMG guides have decades of experience, trained and certified by the American Mountain Guides Association. NCMG maintains a low ratio of clients to guides to ensure a high margin of safety and a quality experience with individual attention. They also offer an armchair preview of the Methow Valley peak experience through videos on their blog. www.ncmountainguides.

■ RE AD ALL ABOUT IT

Books written by local and world-renowned climbers provide readers with climbing routes, tips, and stories of life on the eastern slopes of the North Cascades.

“Mazama Sport Climbing,” by Bryan Burdo, is the most comprehensive guide to sport climbing in the upper Methow Valley. This book is the updated 2019 version to Burdo’s earlier publication, “Methow Rock.” “Matrix & Europa,” also by Burdo and fellow climber Gabe Grayum, covers over 60 new routes near Mazama not covered in any other guidebook.

North Cascades climbing pioneer Fred Beckey meticulously documented his Cascade ascents in three volumes of the “Cascade Alpine Guide” series.

“Cascades Rock,” by Blake Herrington, covers a broad swath of the North Cascades, including Washington Pass. The guide includes detailed route descriptions, topographic maps, and color photos.

“Stone Palaces,” by local author and climber Geof Childs, received the American Alpine Club H. Adams Carter Literary Award for providing readers with “a vision of the climbing life that is insightful, true, and beautiful.”

All these books and more can be found at the Trail’s End Bookstore in Winthrop, or at Goat’s Beard Mountain Supplies in Mazama, but you might want to call ahead, since many of them are difficult for stores to keep in stock.

■ MU LTIDAY TRIPS

Soaring summits and miles of views are the draw to the backcountry peaks surrounding the Methow Valley.

The Methow Valley Ranger station, located at 24 W. Chewuch Road in Winthrop, (509) 9964000, can provide permits and up-to-date trail conditions for destination peaks in the Sawtooth Wilderness, Pasayten Wilderness and Washington Pass areas. PeakBagger.com has information on the top peaks in the area, including the towering classics of Mt. Gardner, Black Peak, and Silver Star.

■ RE WARDING DAY TRIPS

Short or long, there are many options in the Methow Valley for climbers of all levels of experience and skill. Color printed miniguides can be purchased at Goat’s Beard.

• Fun Rock: Located 1.4 miles northwest of the Mazama Store, the Fun Rock crags along Lost River Road are easily accessed from the parking area. Signs point all the way to crags. Over 50 routes ranging 5.5-5.13b are noted in the Fun Rock guidebook — available at Goat’s Beard.

• Liberty Bell and Early Winters Spires: The climbs in the Liberty Bell/Early Winters Spires area are some of the best in Washington state, with solid rough granite and climbs ranging from moderate to difficult. This area is popular for good reason, but decades of popularity have resulted in considerable impact to the surrounding area, including human waste disposal issues, erosion and trail proliferation. The result of a collaborative effort with the U.S, Forest Service, the Access Fund, the National Forest Foundation, and other organizations, the presence of a seasonal climbing ranger with outreach and education information will be a step toward mitigating human impact on the Liberty Bell/Early Winters Spires area. Please respect signs and use guidelines.

• Goat Wall: The iconic Goat Wall towers 1,500 feet over the valley floor. The parking lot and trail access is located 3 miles northwest of the Mazama Store on Lost River Road. The face of Goat Wall is over a mile wide and consists of meta-pyroclastic rock. Irregular cracks and jagged holds provide texture to smooth glacier polish. Long sport multi-pitches and natural lines provide varied options to enjoy classic climbs.

• Europa: Europa is Goat Wall crag with new routes ranging from 5.6-5.12.

• The Matrix: Located 1.6 miles south of Mazama and accessible from the Goat Creek Sno-Park, the 60-plus routes at The Matrix are mostly sport routes with a few traditional lines as well. It gets hot and snaky here in the summer.

• West Chewuch/Falls Creek: Climber and author Bryan Burdo developed this new site located along West Chewuch road, above Falls Creek. Little is written about this new site; experienced climbers just head to the crags and get on the climbs. Eventually www.mountainproject.com may have some information about this area.

• Washington Pass Crags: Beat the summer heat at the crags just above the hairpin turn at Washington Pass. As with The Matrix area, these are mostly single-pitch bolted routes. This newly-developed area gives you the feeling of climbing in the mountains yet is reachable by just a 5-minute walk from the road.

■ T IPS AND GEAR

Climbing equipment, outdoor gear, guidebooks, maps, and local climbing advice are available at several locations throughout the Methow Valley:

• Goat’s Beard Mountain www.goatsbeardmountainsupplies.com

Supplies in Mazama has the largest selection of climbing gear found in the valley. Be sure to purchase the color print miniguides for local crags.

4 4 Lost River Road, Mazama (509) 996-2515

• Winthrop Mountain Sports www.winthropmountainsports. com

257 Riverside Ave., Winthrop (509) 996-2886

• Cascades Outdoor Store www.cascadesoutdoorstore.com

222 Riverside Ave., Winthrop (509) 996-3480

Always practice accepted climbing etiquette and take fundamental safety precautions (www. rockandice.com/how-to-climb/ best-rock-climbing-ethics-andpractices/). There’s an entire book published every year (Accidents in North American Mountaineering) detailing accidents, near-misses, and fatalities in mountaineering and rock climbing. You should aim to stay out of it.