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Hong Kong day trip Chinese temples and authentic markets in Asia's World City
Hong Kong Travel – A day of markets and Chinese culture While my other article was about how to cover Hong Kong's "must sees" on a day stopover, this one is more specific and focuses on the city's rich Chinese heritage, including some very nice temples, and a few authentic markets, where the locals shop… The nice thing about this itinerary is that it is flexible, which means you can "mix and match" the different sites to create your own route…
Let's Go… ----------------------------------------------------------On my first article (on this series), I gave details about arriving at Hong Kong Airport and choosing the right means of public transport to travel to town, so I guess there is no point to repeat all that… (for details, look at: http://www.scribd.com/doc/26186201/Hong-Kong-StopoverGuide-Chapter-1 )
If coming from the airport, the right thing to do is to take the Airport Express Train to Hong Kong Station (terminus), from where you switch to MTR Central (through the pedestrian passage) and commute with the red-marked Tsuen Wan line to either Yau ma Tei, MongKok or Prince Edward (4th, 5th and 6th stations – respectively), where you switch to the green marked Kwun Tong line and travel to Diamond Hill MTR Station.
Sounds complicated? Don't worry… It is not. Switching from one means of transport to another in Hong Kong is a piece of cake. ----------------------------------------------------------Chi Lin Nunnery is possibly the best site to start your "Chinese Hong Kong" day from. Occupying a large complex of beautifully landscaped gardens in Diamond Hill, north of Kowloon, the nunnery is built in a unique Tang Dynasty architectural style, without a single nail, and although it is not as "historic" as some of the sites you will visit later on today, it is certainly the most spectacular…
In the temple itself, there are some beautiful statues of Chinese deities, but the real 'feast for the eyes' are the gardens, on the other side of the bridge, with lotus ponds, rock gardens, manicured bonsai trees and what not…
To get there: Drop off at MTR Diamond Hill and via Plaza Hollywood (Exit C), walk out and turn left to the street. Precede a couple of minutes (pass the curve) to the junction of Fung Tak Road. You will see the entrance to Nan Lian Garden on your right hand side, across the road (The nunnery can be accessed from the garden, through the footbridge).
The compound is open daily, from early morning till late afternoon (The garden is open from as early as 7am, while the nunnery opens at 9am) -----------------------------------------------------------
Wong Tai Sin Temple, one of Hong Kong's most popular places of worship, is our next station. Occupying a fairly large compound on the southern side of Lion Rock Mountain in northern Kowloon, the temple has a reputation of answering almost every plea that is sincere and genuine… "What you request is what you get".
A Taoist priest by the name Leung Renyan brought the message of Wong Tai Sin, a Chinese Taoist deity with a power of healing, from China's Guangxi province to Hong Kong, back in the early 1900s.
After operating for a few years from a small Wanchai apartment, and a herbal medicine shop, the temple was constructed in its current location only in the early 1920s, following a dream in which the priest received a message from Wong Tai Sin, instructing him to built a new temple 3,600 paces from Kowloon Pier…
The temple went from strength to strength and many new structures were added along the years… Skipping the harsh Japanese attack on Hong Kong during WW II with hardly any damages has just added to its miraculous reputation
Kau Cim, a traditional practice of fortune telling, is the main draw here… You have to shake a bamboo cylinder with fortune sticks, and once a stick falls out, you exchange it for a piece of paper with the same number. With this paper you can go to one (or more) of the soothsayers, for interpretation.
Other than fortune telling, the temple boasts some fairly impressive pavilions, shrines and landscaped gardens that are worth visiting, such as the Nine Dragon Wall (a replica of the famous Nine Dragon Wall in Beijing), the Bronze pavilion and the Good Wish Garden.
Getting to Wong Tai Sin Temple is as easy as ABC: Just drop off at MTR-Wong Tai Sin, and you are basically there... (One station from MTR – Diamond Hill, on the green marked Kwun Tong line)
The temple is open from 7:00 am to 5:30 pm daily, and runs overnight in the Lunar New Year Eve.
The birthday festival of Wong Tai Sin, on the 23rd day of the 8th lunar month, is a very busy time at the temple.
After completing the visit to Chi Lin Nunnery and Wong Tai Sin Temple, you basically have two options: Either to proceed to the areas of Yau ma Tei and MongKok (in Kowloon), where local markets and bazaars can be found, or to travel to Sheung Wan, on Hong Kong Island, where traditional Chinese shops and a few old temples can be visited.
Option 1: Yau ma Tei and MongKok (Traditional markets and bazaars) From either Chi Lin Nunnery or Wong Tai Sin Temple, you should board the green marked Kwun Tong Line to Yau ma Tei Station. Walk out of the station through Exit C to Nathan Road and walk down the street for a couple of minutes, till you reach the corner of Public Square Street, where you turn right and continue for a few more steps… The Old Tin Hau Temple, on your left hand side, was built in the 1880s and is one of Kowloon's oldest temples. Dedicated to Tin Hau (Matsu), Goddess of the sea, protector of seafarers and one of Hong Kong's most beloved deities, the temple is open daily, from early morning till around 5:30 pm and although it is not one of Hong Kong's most impressive temples, it's certainly worth a visit. Yung Shue Tau Square, just outside the Temple, is a good place to rest and enjoy the cool shade of the Banyan trees. The square comes alive in the late afternoon, when hawkers, Chinese chess players, Cantonese opera singers and fortune-tellers set up their small stalls...
Mido Café, on the other side of the temple (corner of Public Square Street and Temple Street) is where you can feel a bit of the "old Hong Kong" ambiance. This almost mythological café has changed very little (if at all) since it first opened its doors, almost sixty years ago…
From the temple, enter Temple Street (on the other side of Yung Shue Tau Square) and after one minute turn right to Kansu street, that will lead you to the famous Jade Market.
Jade and its products are the main draw of this area, which includes the Jade Market, as well as the section of Canton Road that is popularly known as "Jade Street" (just behind the corner), and there is certainly a lot to see (and to buy...). From "Jade Street", you can turn hop to Ning Po Street , where many traditional Chinese shops and businesses can be found.
From Canton Road, turn left to Jordan Road and after a few minutes walk you will reach Exit-A of MTR Jordan, from where you can catch the subway to MongKok (Only two stations away). ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From Mong Kok MTR Station – Take exit D-3 and walk to the southern section of Tung Choi Street, which is more commonly known as "The Ladies' Market"
As its name suggests, Ladies' Market is mostly about women's clothing, accessories, cosmetics, and the likes, even though you can find here more than a few booths that sell men's and children's stuff, including toys, clothes, bags, jeans and watches, just to name a few... Ladies' Market operates daily, from 10:30 am to 10:30 pm.
Sai Yeung Choi Street South (parallel to Ladies' Market – between the market and Nathan Road) is a hot spot for local shoppers. The section south of Argyle Street is packed with shops of consumer electronic products at street level and upstairs bookstores above, and there are also some good cosmetics shops that can be found around here. To get here: take exit D-3 of MTR-Mong Kok and you are there...
Fa Yuen Street (also known as Sportswear Street), parallel to Ladies' Market, features quite a few retailers that specialize in sports equipment and clothing. It's a good place to look for sport shoes, including rare shoes or special editions from different places.
Goldfish Market – occupies the northern section of Tung Choi Street (the same street of Ladies' Market). There are numerous shops here that sell a range of tropical freshwater or marine fish, as well as different types of aquarium equipment. Open daily from 10 am to 9 pm.
Fa Yuen Street Market occupies the northern part of Fa Yuen Street. It is full of shops selling bargain-priced trendy fashion and casual wear for men, women and children and they usually open between 10:30 am and 10:30 pm daily (the market also stretches along Nullah Road, all the way to Prince Edward Road West).
Flower Market Road, in the northern part of MongKok, is a street market packed with flower and plant shops. At the far end of the street, turn left and enter Yuen Po Street Bird Garden (or, simply, the Bird Garden), where dozens of bird shops are located and hundreds of colorful songbirds in exquisitely crafted cages can be seen... The market also makes a popular meeting point for elderly bird owners... Open daily from 7 am to 8 pm.
How to get here: From Ladies' Market, continue northward with Tung Choi Street (Goldfish Market) till you get to the corner of Prince Edward Road, cross it to the other side and turn right, then enter the second street on your left (Sai Yee Street) and the first street on your right is Flower Market Road.
From here, you can walk back to the other end of Yuen Po Street, from where you can turn right to Prince Edward Road and walk along it, back to Nathan Road and Prince Edward MTR station (exit B-1 is right next to the corner of Nathan and Prince Edward).
For a fully detailed guide to Yau-ma-Tei and MongKok visit: http://www.metropolasia.com/Mong_Kok ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Recommended restaurants and eating places in MongKok Hong Kong boasts endless eating places that cater for every taste and budget: From glamorous gourmet establishments, where the world's rich and famous have their luxurious dinner of fois gras and truffles, to traditional "Dai pai dong" stalls and humble "Cha Chaan Teng" cafĂŠs where delicious Cantonese fare can be enjoyed...
Below is a short list of some recommended restaurants and local eateries in MongKok, No matter what your taste or budget is, there is always something there to suit you‌
Curry A La King on 88 Soy Street, a couple of minutes walk from Ladies' Market, is a paradise for curry lovers, serving a wide selection of scrumptious curries from different Asian
cuisines. Satay King can be found on Ladies' Market itself (24 Tung Choi St.) and as its name suggests, Southeast Asian 'satays' are the main fare here… MongKok Fung Shing Restaurant, on 749 Nathan Road, Just before the corner of Prince Edward Road West, is another Hong Kong culinary institution, very much known for its superb dim-sum and delicious crispy chicken. Fu Kei Restaurant on the 5th floor of King Wah Centre (on the corner of Nathan Road and Shantung Street) is serving fabulous food from different Chinese cuisines. Good Hope Noodle (好旺角粥麵專家) on 146 Sai Yeung Choi Street South (near exit B-2 of MTR-Mong Kok) is a rather humble eatery which has been serving some of the best Wonton Noodles in Hong Kong for God knows how many years. Tanyoto Hotpot Restaurant on Grand Tower's 5th floor (639 Nathan Road – near the corner of Shantung Street) is serving a good selection of authentic, spicy Szechwan dishes, as well as some excellent hotpot dishes. Still within Grand Tower: M Garden, on the 6th floor, is one of Hong Kong's most popular vegetarian restaurants, serving a wide variety of vegetarian Chinese dishes. Last but not least, Little Sheep (4th floor, 16 Argyle Street) is one of Hong Kong's most favorite hotpot restaurants, serving Mongolian style hotpot. Tip: Visit the Hong Kong Restaurant and Nightlife Guide for a fully detailed guide of Hong Kong's most recommended restaurants and eating places: http://www.metropolasia.com/Hong-Kong/Restaurants_Nightlife_Guide
Option B : Sheung Wan - "The Chinese heart of old Hong Kong", If you decided to opt for the area of Sheung Wan, MTR-Sheung Wan would probably be your best starting point. From Chi Lin Nunnery or Wong Tai Sin Temple, you should board the green marked Kwun Tong Line to either Prince Edward, Mong Kok or Yau ma Tei, switch to the red-marked Tsuen Wan Line and proceed with it to either Admiralty or Central, switch again to the blue-marked Island Line and proceed with it to Sheung Wan MTR Station… Again, it sounds like a lot of hassles, but it is not difficult at all.
Walk out of the station through exit B and proceed for a couple of minutes along Des Voeux Road Central, till you get to Western Market, where our journey starts from.
Another option is to drop off at MTR-Admiralty and walk out through exit C-1 to Queensway, from where you should catch the Tramway to Western Market (make sure you board the westbound tram).
Occupying a distinctive brown Edwardian building, highlighted with "bandaged" brickwork on its four corner towers, Western Market was built in 1906 and is the oldest surviving market building in Hong Kong (Another section of the market was built earlier, in the 19th century, but was demolished). The market is open daily, from 10 am to 7 pm
From the market, walk through Morrison Street or On Tai Street and turn right to Wing Lok Street, (more commonly known as the Ginseng and bird's nest Street), where you can start exploring traditional Chinese shops, packed with all sorts of exotic products like shark's fins, birds nests, dried seafood, Chinese herbal medicines and what not... At the end of the street turn left to Des Voeux Road West, which is better known as the Dried Seafood Street, and from there, turn left again, to Ko Shing Street (Herbal Medicine Street), turn right to Queen Street and right again to Queen's Road West, and left, to Hollywood Road.
Known as the "The Chinese heart of old Hong Kong", Sheung Wan is one of the city's oldest neighborhoods and is characterized by historic streets that stand in contrast to the modern skyscrapers of neighboring "Central". This is also the place where British Victoria City (as Hong Kong was then called) started its history from, and although some of the historic sites are now covered with concrete and tarmac, the area is still packed with Chinese traditions and cultural attractions that are worth exploring. Historic Hollywood Road is Hong Kong's first constructed street and unlike what everybody thinks, has nothing much to do with LA's glittering suburb, but is actually named after a shrub of the same name that used to grow around this area... (As a matter of fact, when the road was constructed in the 1840s, California's famous Hollywood was not even born...).
Hollywood Road became Hong Kong's undeclared antiques market, right from its first days, when the shoreline was closer (before reclamation "pushed" it away) and European merchants, who passed through here on their way back home, used to sell the antiques they brought from China... Even Nowadays, the street and its small offshoots boast many galleries and trinket shops that are worth visiting, even if you don't plan to buy anything‌
Possession Street, on the western side of Hollywood Road, is where the Brits first set their foot on the island of Hong Kong, back in 1841. The exact landing point is within Hollywood Road Park, just around the corner from Possession Street.
In the early 1960s, Hollywood Road became internationally famous, when part of a Hollywood movie, called The World of Suzie Wong, was shot here.
Man Mo Temple, halfway along the street (126 Hollywood Road: Near the corner of Ladder Street) was built in the 1840s in honor of the gods of literature (Man) and war (Mo), and although it is not one of Hong Kong's most imposing temples, it is quite atmospheric, and boasts many incense coils that fill the prayer halls with their strong and aromatic scents.
Ladder Street, a stone-stairs alley right next to Man Mo Temple, used to house some funeral homes in the old days, and bodies of the departed were rested here before being sent to their home villages in China. Upper Lascar Row (Cat Street), below Hollywood Road, is also worth a visit.
Walk up Ladder Street and turn right to Bridges Street, through which you can walk to Tai Ping Shan Street, where an 1850s ancestral hall can be visited. The Hong Kong Museum of Medical Sciences, just above Bridges Street, occupies an impressive 3-storey Edwardian building that once housed the old pathological institute, and is one of the only museums in the world that compare traditional Chinese and Western approaches to medicine.
Not far from there, on Castle Road, Dr. Sun Yat-sen Museum is dedicated to the legendary Chinese statesman, who played a vital role in transforming China from a monarchy to a republic, back in 1911. Occupying a beautiful Edwardian mansion, the museum provides a glimpse into the life of the "father of modern China", who received his education in Hong Kong and developed his revolutionary ideas in this city.
At the eastern end of Hollywood Road, just a heartbeat from the internationally-famous escalator, there are some declared historic buildings that are worth visiting, such as The Former Central Police Station, Victoria Prison (on Old Bailey Street) and the Former Central Magistracy (Facing Arbuthnot Road).
From here you can walk down Pottinger Street, which is also known as "stone-step street", thanks to its historic granite steps, turn left to Lyndhurst Terrace with which you can climb back to Hollywood Road, visit the wet market on Gage Street, or take the escalator up to SoHo, where plenty of great restaurants and cafes can be found.
For a fully detailed guide to Sheung Wan, SoHo and Mid-levels: http://www.metropolasia.com/Mong_Kok
And what about some good food… While Sheung Wan is home to some of Hong Kong's most popular dim-sum eateries and authentic teahouses, SoHo boasts some of the city's loveliest cafés and bistro-style restaurants… So you really have a decent selection to choose from…
Here are some recommended places:
Lin Heung Lau, on 160 – 164 Wellington Street, has been serving delicious Dim-sum and traditional Chinese tea for God knows how many years and is still as good and popular as it has always been...
Lin Heung Kui, on 46-50 Des Voeux Road West, Sheung Wan, is an offshoot of Lin Heung Lau
Taste Better Curry, on 7 Graham Street, just below SoHo, specializes in delicious curries at reasonable prices
Malay Mama, on 11A Mercer Street (a minute walk from MTR Sheung-Wan Exit A2) is a good place to try Singaporean, Malay and Southeast Asian food
Kau Kee noodles is an iconic eatery, famous for its Beef Brisket Stew. It is located on 21 Gough Street (from Hollywood Road, walk down Aberdeen Street and turn left to Gough St.)
Tsim Chai (Jim chai) Noodle is at Jade Centre, on 98 Wellington Street, and specializes in Wonton noodle soup, which some say is the best in town
Lan Fong Yuen, on 2 Gage Street (near the escalator) is a real Cha Chaan Teng (teahousecafé), where you can try some uniquely Hong Kong stuff, like "Pantyhose milk tea", Macanese pork-chop bun, Hong Kong style French Toast and some lovely Ramen dishes (not uniquely Hong Kong, but still nice).
Café Graham, on 51 Graham Street in SoHo, serves homestyle French and European bistrofare in a pleasant and unpretentious environment and at good prices.
Boca tapas & wine on SoHo's Peel Street is a great place to chilout and unwind with a glass of wine…
The Press Room, on Hollywood Road, just a heartbeat from Man Mo Temple, is a fantastic modern-brasserie, where you can enjoy a range of delicious familiar favorites in a lovely ambiance and at relatively sane prices.
For full details of Hong Kong's most recommended restaurants and eateries, visit the Hong Kong Restaurant and Nightlife Guide: http://www.metropolasia.com/Hong-Kong/Restaurants_Nightlife_Guide