Asia Pacific Guides™ Exploring the 'ins and outs' of Singapore's Chinatown
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Copyright © 2011 Asia-Pacific Guides Ltd. All rights reserved.
If you have more than just a day or two in Singapore, it is advisable to dedicate a full day to Chinatown, as this historic part of the city boasts many interesting sites, some of which not even related to Chinese traditions… A small Chinese community already existed in the area of Singapore hundreds of years ago, but it never developed until Sir Raffles founded modern Singapore, at the beginning of the 19th century, and labor migrants started to flock in droves from Fujian and other region in southern China. Chinatown, south of the Singapore River, was meant to be Singapore's Chinese enclave when ethnic quarters were built under the British policy of ethnic segregation (according to the Raffles Plan of Singapore), but had also been the first stop for other migrants who arrived at the city, and their fingerprints can be seen there even today… We will start our Chinatown day-trip from Raffles Place MRT Station: Take exit-F to Cecil Street, turn back as soon as you walk out of the station and walk a few steps to the corner, where you turn right to Robinson Road. After a few minutes' walk you will see the imposing cast-iron structure of Telok Ayer Market on your right. Originally built in 1894 as a fish market, Telok Ayer Market currently houses one of the best Hawker centres around this side of Chinatown. The impressive Victorian structure was prefabbed in Glasgow, Scotland, more than a century ago and shipped to Singapore in pieces, before being erected on site. The market is open daily, morning till late in the evening (most hawkers do not open before 12 noon) Walk out of the Market to Robinson Road, turn right to Boon Tat Street and after two-three minutes' walk you will reach the corner of Telok Ayer St. (the third street on your left). The peaceful street runs along what was once the coastline and visiting it gives you an idea just how much reclamation did pushed the sea away… Fantastic hotel rates throughout Asia! Click NOW for some of the best available rates in Singapore, Hong Kong, Bangkok, Shanghai, Beijing, Tokyo and Seoul.
Grateful newcomers, who disembark from their boats right here, built the mosques and the temple along Telok Ayer Street to show gratitude to their lord after surviving a long and dangerous sea voyage: Nagore Durgha Shrine (Mosque), right on the corner of Boon Tat and Telok Ayer, was built in the late 1820s by South Indian Tamil Muslims and features both South Indian motifs and Muslim elements. Next in line, just a few steps away, Thian Hock Keng Temple is Singapore's oldest and most important Hokkien (Fujian) temple and the street's focal point. Originally built in the 1820s in honor of Matsu, the Taoist goddess of the sea, it features the typical temple architectural style of southern China and boasts lavish decorations and sculpture work. Keep on walking down the street, passing by Masjid (mosque) Al Abrar: Originally built as a rather modest thatched hut in 1827, by South Indian Tamil Muslims, this small and hardly noticed mosque reflects an Indian-Islamic style. Continue pass the mosque, turn right to Amoy Street and right again (still on Amoy). Right on the corner, there's a tiny Chinese temple, called Siang Cho Keong Temple and next to it there is a pedestrianonly pathway (with quite a few stairs...) that leads through Ann Siang Hill Park to Club Street... Ignore it and just continue walking along Amoy Street for a few more minutes, till you reach the corner of Cross Street, where Far East Square can be found (on the other side of Cross Street). Far East Square occupies a cluster of beautifully restored shophouses that has been converted to a small dining precinct, with some good restaurants and eateries. The main draw here, however, is Fuk Tak Ch'i Museum: An old Chinese temple that was built back in 1824 and became a small museum, where you can see exhibits from Chinatown's early days, including a nice 3-D model of early 19th century Chinatown Far East Square is open daily, morning till late evening (The museum is open 10am – 10pm and entry is free) As you leave Far East Square, cross Cross St., turn right and after a few minutes left, to Club Street.
Club Street and its quaint offshoots are lined with some of the most beautiful houses in Chinatown, many of which have been restored and turned to romantic restaurants and boutique hotels. Take your time strolling through these lovely streets and climb to Ann Siang Hill Park (via Ann Siang Road), from where you can view Chinatown's old heart. From Club Street, turn right to tiny Ann Siang Hill, which will take you to the corner of South Bridge Road, where you turn right again and arrive at Eu Yan Sang Medical Hall. This interesting shop specializes in Chinese herbal medicines which are prepared on spot, right before your eyes, and even if you don't feel like trying any of their 'exotic' products, it is still worth visiting. The shop is on 267 South Bridge Road As you leave the shop, cross South Bridge Road to visit Sri Mariamman Temple, one of Singapore's earliest and most significant Hindu temples, which was built originally in 1827, as a simple wood and palm structure, dedicated to Mariamman, the main South Indian mother goddess and a protector from diseases. The existing brick building started its life in 1843 and has since been expended and modified a few times. You can then proceed to visit neighboring Masjid Jamae Mosque, which was built in the 1820s and features an eclectic architectural style. The entrance to Pagoda Street is right next to the Hindu temple. The narrow street, where Chinatown has started its life from almost 200 years ago, was restored and the old houses where poor families of Chinese migrants had to cram in tiny flats are now housing shops and cafés. One of these heritage buildings has become a museum, where you can learn about day-to-day life in Chinatown and the hardships those newcomers had to deal with. Chinatown Heritage Centre is open 9am - 8pm daily and there is an entry fee (website) Take a pleasant stroll through Chinatown's historic streets, including Trengganu, Temple Street and Smith Street (on 335 Smith Street there is a fantastic food centre, where you can have an "authentic" lunch), before proceeding to Buddha Tooth Relic Temple and Museum, on 288 South Bridge Road.
This impressive Tang-style building is where the relic of the tooth of Buddha is kept, in a gold stupa. Other than the holy remnant, there is a lavishly decorated temple here, and a Buddhist Culture Museum, where hundreds of beautiful Buddhist artifacts are on display. Daily, 7am – 7pm (The holy chamber can be seen 9am – 12noon and 3 – 6pm), Free entry. Website Turn right to South Bridge Road as you walk out of the temple and walk along it for a few minutes. On your left hand side, across the street, is the entrance to Maxwell Road Food Court, where you can find some great food stalls, including one of Singapore's most popular chicken-rice joints… Right next to the food court is the modern building of the Urban Redevelopment Authority (URA Centre), where Singapore City Gallery is located. Here you can see one of the largest architectural models in the world, namely The Central Area Model, alongside some other large models of various urban developments City Gallery is open from Monday - Saturday, 9am 5pm (Website) The long and bright-red colonial building which once housed Singapore's traffic Police Headquarters, just across the street from Singapore City Gallery, is currently accommodating one of the world's only two "red dot design museums", where winners of the lucrative red dot design award display their masterpieces… If product design is your thing, you will surely love it. 11am - 6 pm on Monday, Tuesday and Friday, and 11am - 8pm on Saturday and Sunday (closed on Wednesday and Thursday). Website
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Walk back along Maxwell Road to the junction of Neil Road and Tanjong Pagar Road, where the neoclassical building of Jinrikisha Station stands. Noticeable for its red bricks, this beautiful colonial building was inaugurated at 1904 and served as a base for most of Singapore's rickshaw pullers.
Turn left to Tanjong Pagar Road and after a minute or two turn right, to Duxton Hill: The historic district of Tanjong Pagar, south of Chinatown, can be described as "Singapore's Soho", with plenty of vivaciously painted shophouses, where lovely cafés and galleries can be found… Take a pleasant stroll through the area's quaint streets, like Duxton, Duxton Hill, Craig and Neil Road and simply enjoy the ambience… Walk down Duxton Road to the end, turn right to Craig and immediately left to Yan Kit Road. At the end of Yan Kit, turn right to Cantonment Road and after a minute or two, on No. 235, you will see the historic building of Nei Xue Tang Museum, a privately owned museum that displays one of the world's most impressive collections of Buddhist arts and crafts, including hundreds of precious statues, figurines and other pieces of art from China, Tibet, Thailand, Cambodia and other Asian countries.
As you leave Nei Xue Tang Museum, turn left and walk for a few minutes along Cantonment Road, turn left to Hoe Chiang Road and continue walking along it, crossing Tanjong Pagar Road, then turn left to Tras Street and right to Gopeng Street and left again, to Peck Seah Street… There, on the corner, you will see Seng Wong Beo Temple: A small and colorful temple, dedicated to Cheng Huang, who is the city-guard in Taoist tradition. This is one of the only places in Singapore where "ghost marriages" are conducted: According to Taoist belief, the spirits of the unmarried (including children) cannot receive offerings made on family altars. In order to solve the problem, a "ghost marriage" has to be conducted, where the departed living relatives try to find them a match. A couple of minutes' walk from the temple, on the corner of Peck Seah Street and Choon Guan, you will see the entrance to Tanjong Pagar MRT Station, where our day trip comes to its end.
10am - 5pm daily. Children below 8 years old are not permitted (Website) Traveling to Singapore? Click here to get some of the best rates for accommodation in Asia's most cosmopolitan city.
Copyright © 2011 Asia-Pacific Guides Ltd. All rights reserved.