DEBBIE DICKINSON: BACK ON THE RUNWAY

FEELING NOSTALGIC FOR ’70S AND ’80S FASHION?

INTERVIEW WITH AN ICONIC SUPERMODEL

By Katherine R. Sloan

ebbie Dickinson: NYC-based ‘70s –’80s Supermodel turned actress, PR businesswoman and art curator is back in the fashion game ad ready for more. She’s gone back to her modeling roots and now she’s back to hitting the runway at New York Fashion Week with three major shows earlier this month, including Dell Scott, Negris LeBrum and NL Luxury Sock Collection in collaboration with Nigel Barker.

Of course, the world of glitz and glamour is no stranger to Dickinson as she danced with Steve Rubell at Studio 54, hoisted Andy Warhol for a piggyback ride/photo session and partied with Rick James. In America, Dickinson was discovered by Richard Avedon and Polly Mellen and, in France, by Karl Lagerfeld and Guy Bourdin. The rest is history. She has appeared on countless Vogue covers, caught the eye of Julio Iglesias, and modeled for Patrick Demarchlier, Arthur Elgort and Albert Watson (to name a few). She was most memorably captured by Watson in a barely-there white bikini while floating in an inner tube in Africa and holding a transistor radio.

Debbie was the go-to girl for “Electrifying Is Your Dior” and lingerie ads shot by the incomparable Guy Bourdin for the now infamous (and highly collectable) 1976 Sighs and Whispers catalogue for Bloomingdale’s. Along with modeling, she’s most recently been dipping her toe back into the acting pool as well with work on some highly anticipated upcoming New York City projects such as Ryan Murphy’s “Feud” about Truman Capote and his “swans”, (he betrayed with his brilliant confessional “Answered Prayers”). Dickinson’s image has been made eternal in photo shoots as a golden goddess sunning herself in Africa in nothing but a neon orange swimsuit and high heels for American Vogue and as the gamine peering above oversized sunglasses while suggestively sipping a Tab. With the face of a cherub (or the girl next door) and the body of an Amazon, she was the beauty visage for Rouge Baiser Paris, L’Oreal and the sun kissed ’70s dream girl back when magazines were very glossy and fed our most glamorous, over-the-top fantasies.

Dickinson was the first American contract model for Giorgio Armani and not only modeled for but worked alongside Gianni Versace in Italy when he started to embellish his couture with embroidery she found for him in India. She was the head of Versace’s private client sales department at the flagship store on Fifth Avenue where she bolstered sales of his first Atelier collection to A-listers such as Madonna, Elton John, Jennifer Lopez and Carolyn BessetteKennedy.

Today she’s a seasoned professional with gestures like a flamenco dancer, hair tied in a chignon bedazzled with pearls and an evening gown with a skirt that practically flutters across the floor (as seen as she opened the show and finale in Dell Scott’s “Emerge” collection). The makeup and hair was brilliantly created by Odilis Trinidad. Dickinson could also be seen channeling Twiggy or Jean Shrimpton in a short, brightly colored shift with matching knee socks for the NL luxury sock capsule (in collaboration with Nigel Barker) to kick off New York Fashion Week. She walked the runway in something a bit more classic for Negris LeBrum’s show (a tailored, black ensemble with avant guard slickedback hair style by Wella and crimson lips). Dickinson is back in the fashion game and ready for more.

Q&A with Debbie Dickinson

When you’re walking down a runway, do you try to incorporate some theatricality into it? I would think (especially since you boast an acting background) you might feel like a silent film actress, trying to convey something with only your body and the clothes as language.

D.D. When I'm on the runway it all depends on the look of the design and how I can make it come to life. I have always been an actor trapped in a model’s body so every runway passage or photograph can be a different character. I am known in this industry as “The Chameleon.”

Katherine Sloan: Who was your favorite model to work with out of all your contemporaries?

Debbie Dickinson: The most memorable were Billie Blair, Pat Cleveland and Iman on Runway. In the studio, it was Bitten Knudsen and Peggy Dillard yet I worked with a different model every day.

K.S. Can we get candid about aging, especially as a woman with so much experience in the modeling industry?

D.D. Aging needs to be celebrated in the U.S. as it is in Japan. Women everywhere are facing the discrimination of aging. It is not limited to the modeling industry (as seen in the recent situations with Don Lemon and Nikki Haley, Madonna at the Grammys and Jamie Lee Curtis's stand on pro-aging). It is no different in the modeling world.

K.S. What do you wish you could tell your younger self?

D.D. To live one day at a time with a vision and plan for the future. Build a legacy that services others daily and time is never on your side.

K.S. What do you think of when you want to look serene?

D.D. Prayer, art, ice cream and swimming with dolphins. Many things bring me peace; that is what I surround myself with.

K.S. What’s better about the fashion industry today than, say, in the ’70s when you started out? D.D. I am finally seeing the dissolution of constricted visual advertising, editorial ideas and people. You can finally show who you are without worry of being accepted!

K.S. What’s something you miss about the fashion industry circa mid to late 1970s and early 80s?

D.D. I miss the sumptuous way fashion shows were held in Paris, Tokyo, Milan and Rome yet styles are more wearable with more consistent edit and practicality today.

K.S. Has political correctness made the industry less rebellious hence, less fun?

D.D. When I was modeling couture and prêt-à-porter was evolving, the Japanese designers hit Paris and all kinds of abstract ideas flowed. Yet, last season in Paris and in the art world, truly beautiful designs that were wearable, femme, flowing and flattering hit the scene. So, it’s still fun. As far as political correctness, there’s definitely more sensitivity now that didn’t exist before. And, as far as being safe, you have to really take more concern about the kind of fun you’re having.

K.S. What advice would you give to a young model who is brand new, really green and maybe a little naïve?

D.D. Learn the history of designers. Take care of your health; nightclubs rob you of your beauty, resulting in the lack of editorial coverage. Nightclubbing robs the bright beauty that a model possesses so they lose out on the best editorial photo shoot when their looks start to fade from not getting a good night’s sleep!

K.S. Favorite personal runway moment ever?

D.D. There is a wealth of experiences so that is like fishing a needle out of a haystack but three that stand out are:

• Working and dining with Issey Miyake in Paris, New York and Tokyo.

• Yves St. Laurent when he grabbed my face and exclaimed, “Mon bébé!”

• When I was asked by Giorgio Armani to not wear makeup prior to showing up for his runway show and it took him a minute to recognize me when I was waiting for my turn on the runway because he has never natural face. We both had a big laugh because I was his first contract model. There are too many moments.

K.S. What is trending in beauty culture right now that you find really exciting?

D.D. Designer eyeliner, geometric patterns created to accentuate eyes, softened ’70s makeup that still has a touch of glitz to it and that wrinkles are finally being accepted.

Supermodel Actress Debbie Dickinson at Dell Scott Backstage 2023 - NYFW

Beauty Photo: Joseph Dalton | @ newyorkjoseph

Hair and Makeup: Odilis Trinidad

Debbie Dickinson in NL Luxury Sock

Capsule Pink Mini with matching Designer

NL Socks 2023 - NYFW

Photo by Max Flores | @maxflores_official

Debbie Dickinson in Custom Dell Scott, Dell Scott Collection, Black Pearl and Crystal

Trim Petal Gown - Show Opener - Dell Scott Runway Opening 2023 - NYFW

Photo by: Keith McCutheon | KLM

Photography LLC

@letmecapturetherealyou

Debbie Dickinson in Custom Dell Scott, Dell Scott Collection, Black Pearl and Crystal

Petal Gown Finale with designer Dell Scott 2023 NYFW

Photo by: Keith McCutheon | KLM

Photography LLC

@letmecapturetherealyou

Debbie Dickinson in Negris Leblum

Collection Runway Show 2023 NYFW

Photo by: Doug Mitchell Photos