4 minute read

The Negroni is back in style

Renaissance Drink

The classic Negroni is having a moment

BY CHRISTINA WATERS

Widely considered to be the perfect cocktail, the Negroni is popping up on menus all over California. In Santa Cruz, there are Negroni possibilities on every corner—or at least in most watering holes and restaurants with liquor licenses. Like the Renaissance, the Negroni is an Italian creation loaded with romance, an improbable provenance, and superb flavor. Anthony Boudain liked to whip them up for his film crew. »

SEEK BALANCE The quality of a Negroni depends upon the balance of its three central ingredients—bitters, vermouth, and gin.

»The classic Negroni is beautiful to look at and owes its lush crimson hue to the presence of Campari (traditionally dyed with cochineal). Campari also contributes the complex flavor profile of herbs, cinnamon spice and orange peel, as well as the bitterness of chinotto citrus. The next important ingredient is semi-sweet red vermouth. This adds even more color, as well as the sweet yet bitter finish to the cocktail. And then there’s gin. This third ingredient is critical to the balanced Negroni. It adds the kick of 80-proof alcohol and the signature perfume of juniper berries to balance out the Campari and vermouth. A Negroni, like all enduring cocktails, depends upon the balance of these three ingredients—bitters, vermouth, and gin. The classic Negroni is stirred and poured over a glass filled with ice, then garnished with a slice of orange, or curl of orange peel.

A Cocktail History

Almost exactly 100 years ago, a man claiming to be an Italian count (at least his grandfather was one) walked into his favorite café in Florence, Caffe Giocosa and asked for something a bit stiffer than his usual tipple, which was an Americano (Campari, sweet vermouth, and soda). The Count’s name was Camillo Negroni. The obliging bartender swapped out the soda, and replaced it with gin. Definitely stronger, and arguably much more complex. The rest is history.

On a visit to Florence two decades ago, I made a pilgrimage to the Giocosa on the smart side street Via de'Tornabuoni just to order a Negroni in its birthplace. At a tiny round marbletopped table, we ate little truffle panini and worked our way slowly through two enormous house Negronis. Very potent, the drinks were delicious. Once tasted, never forgotten. Alas, on our next visit we tried to repeat our delightful afternoon at the Giocosa, only to find that it was gone, and had been replaced by Cafe Roberto Cavalli, which then closed for good in 2017. But it’s still easy to find a Negroni anywhere— everywhere—in Italy.

Top Local Negronis

Over at Bantam on the Westside, the cozy bar whips up world-class Negronis using a slight variation on the classic theme. Your cocktail will come with gin, carpano—a highly aromatic vermouth with a vanilla topnote—Campari, and orange bitters. Much to savor here before advancing upon one of chef Ben Sims’ wood-fired pizzas. Nearby, at the glamorous Venus Cocktails and Kitchen, the artisanal Venus Gin No.2 forms the base of the Negroni 02, to which is added carpano antica bitters and the fairytale flavor of Cynar (a spirit built upon distilled artichoke). In downtown, Oswald varies the formula. The house signature Amorous blends gin and averna amaro with bitters, mint and lime for a seriously refreshing Negroni surrogate. The menu also sports a White Negroni, using locally crafted Venus Gin No.2, plus Cocchi Americano and the marascino cherry-infused Luxardo bitter bianco. Also downtown, the always inventive bars at 515 Kitchen and Cocktails can dazzle the senses with variations on the Negroni. Especially intriguing is the Gold Standard, which includes gin, vermouth, and bitters, along with saffron and elderflower-infused liquore strega. At Alderwood, the eponymous house cocktail contains gin, cocchi americano vermouth, bitters and fino sherry. It’s arguably a Negroni cousin, as is the house Strawberry Negroni made from gin, red vermouth, gran classico bitters and strawberry infusion.

Further south, in Aptos, Negroni lovers are in luck. Bittersweet Bistro devotes an entire cocktail lounge annexed to the main restaurant to classic and contemporary drinks. And yes, among all the spirits there sits an absolutely classic Negro containing St. George artisanal gin, Campari, and Antica formula vermouth.

Your search for Negroni options need go no further than Mentone in Aptos Village. Here there are several intelligent Negroni offerings to precede stunning designer pizzas and housecured charcuterie. In addition to the classic Negroni, the menu offers the Spagliato Bianco, involving Luxardo bitter white vermouth, quina (quinine and herbs), and prosecco.

If you-ve never sampled a Negroni, you're in for a life-altering treat. But take it slow—the Negroni is a powerful, as well as luscious, cocktail. ✺

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