40 minute read
LANCE BASS
*NSYNC MAY HAVE BEEN WHAT PUT LANCE BASS ON THE MAP, BUT THAT’S NOT WHAT KEPT HIM THERE. Lance has gone from boy band personality to activist, entrepreneur, father, and star in his own right. Destined to become a mega multi-media personality, he started life in a small town in Mississippi where no one locked their doors. His musical instruction would start early as he began singing in his Southern Baptist church choir. The church became his second home and he would learn how to read music and harmonize, not knowing how much those skills would come into play in his later life. As much as he embraced those early beginnings, he also started to feel the divide between conservative religion and LANCE BASS sexuality.
BEHIND THE SCENES I knew I was gay at five years old and I also knew that it would be something I would have BY ALEXANDER RODRIGUEZ to hide my entire life. At a young age, I started seeing the BS which changed my whole look on
religion and the world. I knew at an early age that many of the adults around me were wrong about so many issues - especially in regards to homosexuality - and it was that realization where I became aware these authority figures weren’t to be fully trusted. I feel like I had to fake so much about myself just to appease everyone around me. It made me question everything, and religion doesn’t give you the space to question anything. I remember when I was “saved” and baptized - going through the motions - I had to pretend that I felt the light of Jesus. It was all just an act on my part to appease those around me.
The exposure that would come with *NSYNC also came with the pressure of living life the way the public saw him, not who he really was. Pretty much exposed by the media, his real-life would come into the spotlight as his People magazine cover story would serve as his official coming out. Not calculated or planned, it happened in a media frenzy.
I only had 48 hours to start coming out to the rest of my friends/family who I needed to tell before the whole world learned. I was outed. In hindsight, I am glad the band-aid was ripped off but I had a lot of learning to do about the gay community and I had to learn
THIS PAGE: PHOTOS BY DENNYS ILIC very quickly. No one should be forced to come out. Everyone needs to do it on their own time because you don’t know everyone’s story. There could be safety concerns and there are so many different experiences. It’s ultimately a very personal decision and should be decided by the individual and no one else.
Even as his coming out made headlines, he retreated.
I didn’t want to read anything about myself because I thought people would just be mean and disregard me. I didn’t want to be felt “less than” because most gay people were treated like that at the time. Gay people were treated as novelties. Eventually, though, I couldn’t help but see the way that the media reacted, and to my surprise, everyone was mostly positive and even supportive. It was the first time I had seen a gay man treated with that kind of respect after coming out and it gave me hope moving forward. At that point, I knew I’d be known for being gay more than *NSYNC. My whole career changed from that moment on and my life went on a completely different path. I knew I could hopefully help move the needle for LGBTQ acceptance and I’d have to be more vocal.
How did he change the most from his coming out?
I became who I really am. Your relationships become better. You lose people because you see people’s true colors - there’s a lot of ignorance, but that’s a good thing at the end of the day. It weeds out the bad ones and keeps the people who actually love you.
Shortly after being embraced for his coming out, the LGBTQ community shifted gears and came after him regarding a comment he made about appearing “straight-acting,” claiming he was enforcing negative stereotypes. His role as a true activist would be later welcomed but, at the time, the inclusive nature of our community wasn’t being well represented, and was quick to judge. Just because he was a celebrity didn’t mean he had all the answers or was groomed to be a spokesperson overnight. Does he think our community has matured since his coming out?
In many ways we’ve grown stronger, but we’ve also digressed in certain ways as well, in my honest opinion. As I mentioned earlier, when I was outed I only had 48 hours to let my friends, family, and colleagues know before the story was going to be published. That also only gave me 48 hours to educate myself as much as I could on LGBT issues which, in hindsight, is just absurd. I was ignorant of so much back then because even though I’ve always known I was gay, I had distanced myself so much from the community in
Lance Bass and husband Michael Turchin. Photo by Richard Shotwell/ Invision/AP
order to preserve my career and the careers of my bandmates. During that interview, I had relayed a story about how some of my friends (the few who, in fact, had known I was gay) referred to me as “sag” or straightacting-gay, and instead, the publication then erroneously stated that I referred to myself as that. At that time I admittedly had no clue about the offensiveness of this language and the problems it creates for many in the LGBT+ community. I obviously never wanted to hurt anybody but the damage had been done. I distinctly remember receiving an HRC award that year, and when I made my way to the stage two tables flipped me off and walked out. This is where I believe the LGBTQ community can sometimes be too impulsively judgmental to our own who make honest mistakes. We’ve come so far in our journey towards acceptance and equality that, at times, we’re too quick to knock down those within our own community who are still finding their way. Fortunately for me, I also had amazing LGBT people around me who helped educate me on these issues instead of immediately tossing me aside. Because of them, it’s affected how I react to others moving forward.
Today’s celebration of openly LGBTQ entertainers is a totally different environment than the landscape Lance came out in. Having been through two previous substantial relationships, it was his involvement with Amazing Race’s Reichen Lehmkuhl that would make his coming out inevitable. Does he wish he could have come out earlier?
Knowing what I know now, I would have come out during *NSYNC. To be able to be an ‘out’ gay teenager in the biggest band in the world would have helped so many people. As a teenager, I didn’t understand that though. I’m not sure if my career would have been the same because in the 90s. I could have very well been fired. I never wanted to ruin my best friends’ careers and everyone else that worked for us. I didn’t want the band to get canceled and have my sexuality be the cause - only demonizing sexuality even more. In hindsight, I would have just loved to be authentic, and if people had an issue then SCREW THEM!
I think the more representation we have out there in any capacity/industry, the better. Straight entertainers have been singing about heterosexual sex and relationships for as long as the medium has existed. It’s just par for the course. LGBTQ entertainers no longer have to hide and, because of that, their art now reflects their true lives. Gay performers have always existed, but now they finally have the freedom to be authentic.
Though his activism was called into question, he has been an avid philanthropist even in his youth. Five years before his coming out, he founded The Lance Bass Foundation, a non-profit organization that was designed to meet the health needs of low-income children. Two years later he donated $30,000 to establish the Amber Pulliam Special Education Endowment at the University of Southern Mississippi to aid students who planned a career in special education, all in honor of his cousin who has Down Syndrome. After Hurricane Katrina, he launched uBid for Hurricane Relief putting together celebrity auctions to benefit victims. He also appeared on an episode of Extreme Makeover: Home Edition that highlighted his donation to save a camp for disabled children in Russia. He’s been involved in environmental and animal organizations and has been an active supporter of GLAAD and the Gay, Lesbian, and Straight Education Network. While his time is now more focused on his family, he is excited to see the younger generation of activists continue that legacy. He also continues to call on his fellow celebrities to become involved and use their platforms for activism.
I hope we can continue to grow as an entertainment community. I think things are great and only going to get better. Just in the last ten years, we’ve seen so many LGBTQ artists getting so much respect for who they are and what they’re doing. Entertainers always have a significant impact on peoples’ mindsets because their fans start getting passionate about the same issues and then it becomes a domino effect. For example, many *NSYNC fans started to be really passionate about the LGBTQ community because I came out and it educated them. There are so many fans that are now LGBTQ advocates and creating change within their own communities.
The *NSYNC fandom remains fervent supporters, even after the group’s hiatus in 2002. The group completed five nationwide concert tours and sold over 70 million records, becoming one of the best-selling boy bands in history. While in junior high school, Lance was approached by Justin Timberlake after the group’s initial bass singer dropped out. He auditioned, left school, and moved to Orlando to start rehearsing with the group full time. Even as *NSYNC became a global phenomenon, the boys were in a bubble.
For years, we had no idea how big it got. It seemed like every day we were booked every hour. We didn’t get to really watch tv or listen to the radio. It was great because it kept us very humble. We were always chasing the Backstreet Boys. We always felt inferior to them, always trying to prove ourselves or get respect. It wasn’t really until 1999/2000 when we started realizing the impact we were having. We performed “Music Of My Heart” with Gloria Estefan at the Oscars and it was so surreal to be standing on stage in front of people who we’ve looked up to our whole lives. That was kind of where it dawned on us that this was big.
To Lance, the realization of success was a double-edged sword.
As success grows, there’s more outside influence as a group and also as an individual, especially for teenagers who are becoming adults. With more success, the less close we became. The first few years, we were in it together by ourselves. There was no outside influence and we formed this brotherhood that could never be broken. All we had was each other. More success meant more influence from the outside and sometimes it got in the way. I see that a lot with every musician I know. It’s somehow always the outside that destroys their art.
I hate to say I regret anything, but of course I do. In hindsight, there are many things I would have changed. Number one, I would have at least wanted to tell my four brothers that I was gay. I wish I could have told them the truth. I think it would have led me to be a different person within the group. I look back in different interviews and I don’t even recognize who I was - I just wanted to fade into the background and I tried to do just that. If I could have been open and honest with the guys, I would have been a different person and a better performer.
Much media speculation has been made about why the group hasn’t reunited. Timberlake took the group’s hiatus to start his solo career and what was to last six months turned into an indefinite break.
I think it’s ridiculous we never said goodbye - the fans are owed at least owed that. One last song, one last show.
Though not the full reunion fans have been asking for, Lance and bandmate Joey Fatone joined forces with Backstreet Boys members AJ McLean and Nick Carter to create the ultimate boyband Back-Synch. Their debut performance would raise money for The Trevor Project. With a nod to the future of boybands, the group’s appearance was total nostalgia with the singers performing as well as ever.
I love the stage, I love being a ham, I love performing. The main thing that drew me to Back-Sync was the charity angle. It was great that three of my close straight friends were so passionate about giving back to the LGBTQ community. All in all, it was a great experience and I would love to continue to do it around Pride every year.
Post *NSYNC would keep Lance busy with appearances on Broadway, in film, reality TV, and more, including a long-running stint with SiriusXM with Dirty Pop, his daily take on pop culture with celebrity guests. He has never been far from the media’s attention, especially present in Lance’s private life events such as becoming a husband and father.
I’ve been in the public eye for most of my life so I don’t know anything different. The husband I am and the father I am is just me being who I should be. I also understand the whole world is watching and I want to be a good influence - someone that people look up to. I took that very seriously at such a young age because I was in a boyband with so many young impressionable fans. It’s always been that way my whole life. I chose to do good in this world and that spills into my home life as well. At the end of the day, there will always be outside chatter and noise and I’ve learned to not let it affect my real life.
Lance has turned his efforts to the nightlife, becoming an entrepreneur in West Hollywood with the opening of the always packed Rocco’s and, most recently, Heart. Where Rocco’s serves up that neighborhood, sports bar feel with a bit of glitz, Heart is the mega dance club that West Hollywood never had. No matter your taste, you will end up brushing elbows with a celeb. His mission is to create a fun, safe space for anyone who needs to forget their troubles and experience inclusive fellowship, even if it’s just a few hours.
Nightlife has been a huge part of my life since I was a teenager. The music industry happens at night. I’ve seen the best bars, clubs, restaurants, and VIP experiences all over the world. It’s easy to start getting accustomed to the way things should be run and be familiar with what people want. I didn’t come into this with strictly business in mind, I came into this as a patron who wanted to experience the best of the best. When my partners came to me about wanting to open up a gay sports bar in West Hollywood, I jumped at the chance. I am gay and I love sports - it made perfect sense! I also loved that I could use my love for hospitality in a fun way. I’m always the one hosting parties at my house - why not at my own sports bar or club?! I had NO idea it would blow up the way it has with our little bar and now owning a nightclub. It makes so much sense to me.
Additionally, I now have an entertainment venue that the LGBTQ community can use as their own - which was a dream I never thought I ever had. I wanted to give our community a stage for them to do whatever they want and we did just that.
David Cooley and Lisa Vanderpump, two of my very good friends, own a lot of bars/ restaurants in the Weho area so I saw how they handled it and they definitely gave me great advice. The best part of my job in this scene is that I’m entertainment only. All of the other partners have their own expertise. I stay in my lane and it’s a way less stressful lane because no one is looking at me to operate the club, thankfully. I’m there to make sure the entertainment is amazing.
I’ve learned that people need a safe space to be themselves and the LGBTQ community can be VERY loyal. We have our neighborhood regulars that are at Rocco’s every single week and it becomes a neighborhood family. A lot of the people that I work with also go there regularly just because they love it so much. I love being able to give this neighborhood a place to go and not worry about being themselves. You can also meet SO many different types of people. It’s incredible to see every ethnicity, body type, and identity dancing together in a space that represents the actual world we live in.
Throughout his career, his fans have been at the heart of everything. From the positive response of his coming out to the thrill of seeing Lance grow into the man he has become, they are unwavering.
The fans have been such an intricate part of my entire life. Being in the type of band I was in, it was all about the fans as much as it was about entertainment and music. Their continued support is so humbling. I’m so appreciative that they’ve stuck by me all these years and now join in the fight for a lot of the things that I care about which include LGBTQ rights, environment, and animals. It’s nice to be an influence for someone to do better in this world so I appreciate them
more than they could ever imagine. ■
WINE COUNTRY IS A REGION OF CALIFORNIA IN THE NORTHERN BAY AREA KNOWN WORLDWIDE AS THE PREMIER WINE -GROWING REGION. The region is famed for its wineries, its cuisine, Michelin star restaurants, boutique hotels, luxury resorts, historic architecture, culture, and nearly perfect year-round weather.
Picturesque Sonoma County is among the LGBT-friendliest areas in the nation and was identified as the number two gayest area in the US, just behind San Francisco. This is the backdrop for one of the premier gay getaway events in the country, Gay Wine Weekend, brought to us by Out in the Vineyard, an experiential Wine Country event and travel company promoting positive LGBT lifestyles.
Gay Wine Weekend started in 2008 as a way to introduce the LGBTQ community to this wine region and support local gay causes. It’s grown in participation over the years from 300 to an anticipated group of 700 this year. “We have a number of guests who plan their vacation around Gay Wine Weekend and return annually,” noted Gary Saperstein, owner of Out in the Vineyard. “Gay wine enthusiasts come from as far as New Zealand to participate each year,” he added.
In addition to offering a first-rate Wine Country experience, Gay Wine Weekend also serves as a fundraising event to benefit Face to Face, a non-profit organization in Sonoma County dedicated to supporting the health and well-being of people living with HIV/AIDS. “Over the years, through ticket sales and our annual live auction, we’ve been able to raise over $400,000 for a local organization that makes a meaningful impact to our community,” Saperstein revealed.
This year the festivities will run Friday, July 15 through Sunday, July 17 at various venues surrounding the city of Sonoma. From the time you join the VIP kickoff on Friday afternoon, you’ll experience a weekend of gourmet food, winery tours, after-hour parties, a Drag Queen Brunch & Wine Auction, a pool party, and the ultimate vineyard fete: The Twilight T-Dance. It’s truly a weekend of wine and celebration.
You can choose to participate in as many or few Gay Wine Weekend events as you wish, but the All Access VIP Pass available at outinthevineyard.com will provide the best value for those ready to soak up the whole Sonoma experience.
The opening VIP reception is for All Access VIP Pass Holders, The Lodge at Sonoma hotel guests and sponsors of Gay Wine Weekend.
GET READY FOR ‘THREE DAYS OF GAY’ IN SONOMA WINE COUNTRY
GAY WINE WEEKEND 2022 IS BACK!
BY JAMES DELYEA
GAY WINE WEEKEND
- SCHEDULE AT A GLANCE
(Some activities require separate ticketing.)
FRIDAY, JULY 15
3:00pm VIP Reception 6:00pm Winemaker Dinners 10:00pm After-Hours Party
SATURDAY, JULY 16
10:00am Winery Tours 5:00pm VIP Reception 6:30pm Twilight T-Dance 10:00pm After-Hours Party
SUNDAY, JULY 17
10:00am Drag Brunch & Auction 1:00pm Pool Party Guests will enjoy light bites from our host hotel while sipping some fine wines poolside. Meet your hosts and other guests as the weekend events officially kick-off.
Local winemakers have partnered with restaurants and world-class chefs to create intimate and exclusive dinners Friday evening. Still available as of this writing are the Ashes & Diamond Winery’s dinner at Chef Michael Mina’s newest venue, Wit & Wisdom; Equality Vine’s dinner at El Dorado Kitchen hosted by Jim Obergefell; or join Etude Winery as they showcase their enticing pinot noirs with cuisine prepared by heralded Chef Chad Carlstedt of Classic Culinaire. Something new this year is an all plant-based dinner with two pioneers in the industry, Miyoko of Miyoko’s Creamery and Chef Eric Tucker of Millennium Restaurant. Their cuisine will be paired with the wines of Knights Bridge Winery and will be held at the original Williams-Sonoma store.
Select from three winery tours on Saturday which include transportation and lunch. Discover Carneros Region wines with a visit to both Roche Winery and Viansa Winery, with one of the most spectacular vistas overlooking Sonoma. Or get an up-close look, and taste, of two treasures of Napa Valley, Stag’s Leap and Etude Winery. Another option is a VIP visit to Dunstan and Sangiacomo Winery, two of Sonoma’s finest that are known for their wines and their vineyards.
Chateau St. Jean Winery once again will host the Twilight T-Dance, the signature extravaganza of the three-day weekend featuring food, entertainment, and a selection of their wines in one of the most stunning Wine Country settings imaginable.
Sunday morning starts with the Drag Queen Recovery Brunch. Guests will be entertained by San Francisco’s infamous hostess of hostesses, Ruby Red Munro, while enjoying a sumptuous Champagne brunch which is immediately followed by a fun and lively Wine Auction to benefit Face to Face.
The last splash of the weekend is a pool party hosted at a private estate, where guests can relax in an idyllic location with warm rays and cool vibes. It’s the perfect way to unwind on a Sunday in Wine Country before heading home. ■
For full details on event, lodging and ticket information: https://www.outinthevineyard.com/ gay-wine-weekend-2022
The Clift Lobby. Photo courtesy of The Clift. FOR MANY OF US, A SAN FRANCISCO LIFE CHAPTER IS ALMOST A PREREQUISITE TO LGBTQ+ ADULTHOOD. Until you live in San Francisco, at least for a while, it feels like you’ve missed everyone’s favorite college elective. You might even lose your gay card without a sojourn in San Francisco.
Back when I first lived in San Francisco, the city was often depicted as Oz. One of the most popular postcards showed Dorothy and her friends following the yellow brick road to the skyline of San Francisco. The message was clear: San Francisco was the Emerald City where everyone was fierce and fabulous and rainbow horses were the norm. The City - always rendered in uppercase for those who resided there - was perceived as such a gay mecca that some politicians from that era castigated it as “the land of fruits and nuts,” an epithet that San Francisco turned on its head and wholeheartedly embraced.
And like the protagonists of the HBO television series Looking, sometimes you need to return to your alma mater, the scene of your youthful indiscretions - and see what you’ve been missing.
As any student of history knows, San Francisco has overcome adversity before. Less than ten years after the 1906 earthquake and fire reduced much of The City to rubble and ash, San Francisco welcomed the world to celebrate its rebirth with the PanamaPacific International Exposition of 1915.
Learning to pivot and strategize in the face of disaster has become a global narrative during the COVID-19 pandemic. San Francisco responded with a citywide COVID-19 Prevention & Enhanced Cleaning Guidelines which ensures that hospitality businesses adhere to approved cleaning and safety protocols. Nearly 26 million people visited San Francisco in 2019, with more than three million international visitors - and all visitors to San Francisco are invited to honor and respect the city’s Safe Travel Pledge.
To welcome and assist visitors, San Francisco Travel launched a marketing campaign with the theme “Our Gate is Open.” The citywide initiative includes a fleet of Welcome Ambassadors dressed in bright orange hats and jackets who offer advice on transit options, tourist attractions, restaurants, and shopping.
In the wake of the 1906 earthquake, San Francisco faced a similar dilemma: how to bring people safely back to Oz. In response, the visionary hotel proprietor Frederick C. Clift advertised his brand-new, 300-room hotel, The Clift, as The City’s first “fire and earthquake proof” hotel. Should anyone have doubted his claim, Clift perched himself atop the hotel in a spacious penthouse apartment with sweeping panoramic city views.
(above) Executive Suite.
(below) Redwood Room. Photo courtesy of The Clift.
Photos courtesy of John’s Grill.
For more than a century, the Clift has stood as a symbol of San Francisco’s resurrection and welcoming hospitality. One year during Folsom Street Fair, my husband and I checked into the hotel when Asia de Cuba was located just off the Redwood Room - and that weekend, the hotel’s dining room was home to more leather and boots than a Harley Davidson club.
Now known as The Clift Royal Sonesta Hotel, they recently completed a two-year, multimillion-dollar restoration of all its public spaces, guest rooms and suites. The soaring two-story lobby leads into the new Living Room with seating for cocktails or meetings, while the hotel’s iconic oversized French fauteuil (with its knowing wink on the underside) has been reupholstered and repositioned alongside Fredericks, the hotel’s new eatery and café named for Mr. Clift.
For those who love classic speakeasy cocktails, the hotel’s beloved Redwood Room retains its Art Deco charms. Paneled in redwood from a single tree, the Prohibition-era room features newly restored paintings by Gustav Klimt and a bar carved from an 800-year-old redwood tree. It is the kind of room that makes you forget all your troubles, especially when sipping the hotel’s signature “Mr. Clift” cocktail.
And speaking of, Frederick Clift’s penthouse apartment has been transformed into the Spanish Suite, a sophisticated aerie with an expansive terrace,
fireplace, and space enough for 125 guests. The city and bay vistas of the entire Bay Area offer a breathtaking backdrop for wedding ceremonies - just in case you get a bit juiced in the Redwood Room and pop the question. Hey, it happens. In the years before samesex marriage was the law of the land, my now-hubby and I got hitched in San Francisco’s City Hall - our first government-sanctioned certificate.
And since we’re talking nuptials, the Clift’s newly renovated suites are larger than many city apartments and come outfitted with Staycast TV streaming service, Keurig coffee makers, rainfall showerheads, and signature Sonesta bedding. In-room Pelotons are also available, should you feel the urge to exercise. Sumptuously furnished and immaculate, the suites are so lovely that you might imagine them as your own San Francisco pied-à-terre. And for those who are always in the mood for love, the hotel’s Pop the Bubbly package can be enjoyed throughout the year.
In the title essay of her collection The White Album, Joan Didion wrote that the Sixties ended abruptly on August 9, 1969 with the implication that the California Dream had shattered in the aftermath of the Manson murders. Nonetheless, the massive migration of LGBTQ+ people to San Francisco continued, and today, San Francisco holds the highest percentage of LGBTQ+ people of any city in the United States.
Maybe it’s the food. According to the latest Michelin Guide, the Bay Area has once again claimed the top spot with the highest concentration of threestar restaurants in the States, as well as the most Michelin-starred restaurants in California. Furthermore, more than sixty area restaurants have been awarded Michelin’s Bib Gourmand designation for restaurants offering “great food and value.”
Located just off Union Square, the Clift is but a short stroll from One Market where Chef Mark Dommen helms the kitchen. In response to the pandemic, Dommen and his partner opened Mark ‘n Mikes offering Jewish deli comfort food - a concept that proved so popular that it’s now served on Saturdays at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market.
But if you are looking to be where the magic happens, then claim a ringside seat at the Chef’s Counter at One Market where Dommen and his crackerjack crew showcase the best of California bounty at the open exhibition kitchen with its wood-fired grill and rotisserie. Just as a tip, loaded latkes pair well with the Monkey Business cocktail. And there is no better butterscotch pudding in the state of California. When Pride weekend rolls around in June, remember that One Market is located near the parade kick-off at the base of Market Street.
When you are ready to burn off your gastronomic indulgences, head to Golden Gate Park. With more than one thousand acres and nearly 700 of them
Photos courtesy of One Market.
forested, the park is larger than Manhattan’s Central Park and includes 100 acres of meadows, 33 acres of lakes, 10 public gardens, two museums, and a greenhouse (but no partridge in a pear tree, last I looked). Or you might consider the 17-mile Crosstown Trail which connects San Francisco’s neighborhoods on a diagonal pathway across The City. San Francisco’s 49 square miles also include the nation’s most visited national park, the Golden Gate National Recreation Area which encompasses the 1,500-acre Presidio of San Francisco and the brand-new Presidio Tunnel Tops which offers 14 acres of new national parkland.
Of course, the more you walk, the more you’ve earned the right to park yourself in another restaurant. In the 1920s, novelist Dashiell Hammett used to work through the mornings in the Flood Building and then head next door for lunch (and a whiskey) at John’s Grill. Hammett made mention of John’s in his 1930 novel The Maltese Falcon and the bond between Hammett and John’s is marked with a commemorative plaque above the door of the restaurant, as well as a 150-lb. bronze falcon perched on the second-floor bar.
Opened in 1908, two years after the earthquake and fire, John’s Grill has been serving seafood and steaks to the city’s politicians and celebrities for more than a century. As owner John Konstin attests, the restaurant is a labor of love, inherited from his parents, and The City returns the favor as evidenced by the framed photographs lining the restaurant’s walls. And if you squint long enough at your martini, you’ll see the spirit of Sam Spade.
Some people claim that San Francisco has changed, which is often a complaint expressed by those who rhapsodize about their youth and the world as it was then. The truth is, all cities change, but if you are yearning for that classic San Francisco neighborhood, then head up to Nob Hill where the “nabobs” of the Gilded Age built their mansions at the peak of California Street. When the 1906 earthquake decimated that rarefied enclave, only two structures survived the fires: the Flood mansion (now the Pacific-Union Club) and the newly completed Fairmont Hotel. Built in honor of US Senator James Graham Fair by his two daughters, the hotel reopened its doors less than a year later in 1907 - primarily due to the brilliance of American architect
The Fairmont Lobby. Photo courtesy of The Fairmont.
(above) Tinned scallops.
(below) Shrimp and Crab Roll. Bluestem photos by Kelly Puleio.
Photo courtesy of Bluestem Restaurant & Market
and engineer Julia Morgan who pioneered the use of reinforced concrete.
During the course of its century-long reign atop Nob Hill, the Fairmont San Francisco has hosted so many US presidents that it’s often referred to as the “White House of the West.” There is a resemblance between the two buildings, especially when facing the hotel’s porte cochère which leads into a palatial white marble lobby of massive columns and grand staircases. Take the stairs. The Fairmont is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and those staircases are made for exits and entrances. Plus, that sense of arrival is particularly pleasing when entering one of the hotel’s signature Fairmont Balcony Suites.
With two pairs of French doors that open onto a filigreed terrace large enough for candlelit dinner parties, the Fairmont Balcony Suites are beloved by guests for their jawdropping views of the Bay. Few sights are more mesmerizing than watching the fog roll in and blanket the city, especially if you’ve got Tony Bennett singing in your head. That statue by the front entrance is in honor of Tony Bennett’s long association with the hotel in which he debuted his signature tune “I Left My Heart in San Francisco” in the Venetian Room in 1961.
When my husband and I found the doors open to the Venetian Room, how could I resist? How could I not climb onstage where Tony and Diana Ross and countless other legends have performed? How could we not photograph the moment for posterity? Plus, we were a little loopy from our evening at Tonga, the hotel’s tiki bar.
Yes, a tiki bar - and I know what you’re thinking, but even a tiki bar cynic could be converted after a night at Tonga. Since its opening in 1945, Tonga has become a San Francisco tradition as cherished as the cable cars. Housed in what was once the hotel’s indoor swimming pool, the Fairmont Plunge became a lagoon designed by an MGM set director, complete with an island band on a thatch-covered barge.
Once the tropical rainstorm commences, the crowd goes wild as the Island Groove Band warms up, and the gung-ho atmosphere quickly becomes irresistible, especially under the influence of drinks notable for their potency. You, too, might find yourself tap-dancing onstage in the Venetian Room.
Fortunately, the Fairmont Balcony Suites feature an elegant parlor with separate bedroom and marble bath - in other words, a welcome sanctuary after a long night out. Morning coffee on the terrace overlooking the hotel’s gardens and apiary is wonderfully therapeutic, as is breakfast at Laurel Court. With its pastoral murals and Ionic columns, the ornatelydomed restaurant summons reveries of Versailles - although that might be a tiki-bar hallucination.
When the sun is shining in San Francisco, there’s no good reason not to continue the party, regardless of the hour. Take a cable car down Nob Hill for a restorative wander through Yerba Buena Gardens. When you’re ready to eat again - because, after all, this is the best eating town in the US - make haste and head over to Bluestem Restaurant & Market.
Bluestem’s founders Adam and Stacy are the unofficial mayors of the neighborhood, and their California-cool brasserie serves as a lively commissary for locals, thanks to large part to the couple’s infectious ebullience. Of course, there is also that cast-iron cornbread, served with honey butter or vanilla ice cream, whichever your preference. With a focus on sustainable local food, Bluestem’s curated market offers some of the best Bay Area comestibles. On Pride weekend, Bluestem hosts an annual Pride party on their rooftop terrace as the parade marches up Market Street. And should the night before haunt you still, there’s no better cure-all than Bluestem’s famous Honolulu Hangover Cake.
And that’s San Francisco for you, that bit of sweetness that lingers on the palate. ■
Photo courtesy of the Belmond Orient Express.
SEVEN ROMANTIC HONEYMOON
DESTINATIONS
BY JEFFREY JAMES KEYES
MAUI, PARIS, AND VENICE ARE ALL OBVIOUS HONEYMOON DESTINATIONS, BUT HAVE YOU CONSIDERED A ROMANTIC TRAIN RIDE WITH BELMOND, THE FORMER ORIENT EXPRESS TRAINLINE? OR SKIING THE DOLOMITES, OR CRUISING ALONG CROATIA’S NORTHERN COAST? OR SOMEWHERE CLOSER TO HOME LIKE HISTORICAL RICHMOND OR QUAINT DOOR COUNTY? There are no real rules for picking a honeymoon location, just be sure to select a spot where you can spend quality time with your new spouse and start your life together in style!
BELMOND - THE ORIENT EXPRESS TRAIN
Back in the day, couples might have romanticized about taking the legendary Orient Express, a long-distance passenger train service created in 1883 with the original train leaving Paris for Vienna. The formal route changed several times, with services often extending from Paris and the former Constantinople or from London to Venice or Athens. In 2014 Orient-Express Hotels Ltd. was renamed Belmond with an impressive list of hotels, river cruises, safaris, and luxury train rides. A fashion-conscious yet adventurous couple might consider traveling from London to Venice on the iconic and signature Venice Simplon-Orient-Express line to crisscross Europe while taking in the countryside en route to the Italian coastline. Put a cherry on top of your adventure with Belmond by staying at the Belmond Hotel Cipriani in Venice where you and your lover can take a dip in the famous Olympic-style swimming pool and relish in total Venetian luxury and style. For a taste of Asia, honeymooners can experience Southeast Asia aboard the Eastern & Oriental Express with their signature journey from Singapore through Kuala Lumpur, Cameron Highlands, Penang, and Huay Yang or a classic journey from Bangkok to Singapore.
DOOR COUNTY, WISCONSIN
Wisconsin’s Door County, considered the “Cape Cod of the Midwest,” has over 300 miles of Lake Michigan shoreline, providing phenomenal sunsets over the water and acres upon acres of orchards, mouthwatering cherries, and eleven lighthouses to provide the best thank you card or Instagramable moment. Door County is a completely LGBT-friendly community and offers full-service resorts, romantic B&Bs, and luxury waterfront hotels for honeymooners. Nine must-see landmarks include the Sturgeon Bay Bridge, Eagle Tower, Northern Sky Theater, Thordarson Boathouse, all eleven lighthouses, Anderson Dock, the Alexander Noble House, the Native American Village Site, and The Clearing Folk School. The Chanticleer Guest House Bed and Breakfast is an adorable 19th Century farmhouse converted into a bed and breakfast that’s ready to welcome you. In addition to a variety of guestrooms on the main property, guests can choose a little more privacy in their Evergreen Cottage, Oak Cottage, or their Hemlock Cabin. Nearby, the Eagle Harbor Inn offers a bit more of a community vibe where you can indulge in their sauna and indoor pool, go for a hike, or hit the links on the nearby golf course. The Bayshore Inn, celebrating 100 years of business, offers beautiful water view suites, a heated swimming pool and whirlpool and provides complimentary bikes, kayaks, row boats, paddle boats, and a private sandy beach just across from Green Bay.
ENNISKILLEN, NORTHERN IRELAND
Enniskillen is a town in County Fermanagh, situated on a natural island separating the North and South of Lough Erne in Northern Ireland. The scenic backdrop is the spot where Oscar Wilde and Samuel Beckett went to boarding school (at Portora Royal) and the landscape provides a myriad of lush and poetic locations for portraits and quiet honeymoon adventures. The luxurious 5-Star Lough Erne Resort, home to the G8 Summit in 2013, is a decadent and upscale property featuring 120 luxury rooms and suites, a Thai-inspired luxury Spa, 36-hole golf course, and spectacular restaurants curated by award-winning Chef Noel McMeel. The resort’s Lakeview Suites, overlooking Castle Hume Lough and the Fermanagh Lakelands serve as the ultimate home base for a honeymoon in Northern Ireland. Be sure to take a romantic walk around Enniskillen castle, and the picturesque Devenish Island. Lough MacNean, just about a half hour drive from Enniskillen, is a stunning freshwater lake on the border between Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland. Get your cameras ready, you’re in for a treat with this stunning landscape.
(above) Island Sunset.
(below) Fish Creek. Photo by Dan Eggert Destination Door County
(above) Lough Erne Resort.
(below) Lough MacNean.
(above) Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden.
(below) Photo courtesy of The Jefferson Hotel
(above) Quebec photo by Paul Fleming.
(below) Quebec photo by Martin Laporte.
RICHMOND, VIRGINIA
With 400 years of history, a vibrant arts scene, fabulous restaurants, and worldrenowned museums there’s something for everyone in Richmond. Honeymooners can embark on a romantic canal cruise on the James River and Kanawha Canal alongside Richmond’s historic Canal Walk or take in the impressive collection at the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts as well as the beautiful Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden. Be sure to check out Maymont, a 100-acre Victorian estate and public park featuring gardens, an arboretum, and nature center. The stunning Jefferson Hotel in Richmond has been welcoming lovers since 1895. Book a swank Richmond Suite at the hotel featuring a king bed, adjoining dressing area, and master bath featuring a luxurious soaking tub and separate shower. Champagne is additional, of course. Fun fact: The 1981 cult classic My Dinner with Andre featuring Wallace Shawn and Andre Gregory was shot entirely inside the hotel and restaurant. In the mood for a little antiquing? It’s what married couples do, isn’t it? Carytown has got you covered. Stroll through an eclectic mix of shops and find the perfect souvenir to bring to your new home. If the weather’s nice and you’re on the hunt for a bit of nature, Belle Isle is a wonderful place for kayaking, biking, hiking trails, and even a glimpse of history.
QUEBEC
Picturesque Old Quebec, a UNESCO heritage site, is the only walled city north of Mexico. For over a century, Québec City’s Fairmont Le Château Frontenac has been the castle many dream about. This castle has welcomed kings, queens, presidents, celebrities, and diplomats alike. In 1952, the Château Frontenac was transformed into a movie set for Alfred Hitchcock’s movie, I Confess starring Montgomery Clift and Anne Baxter. Lovers visiting Quebec can find horse-drawn carriages, the Place Royale, the Musée de la civilisation, and stunning views of the St. Lawrence River from the Old Port. Take a stroll down the rue Saint-Jean and take in local shops and landmark spots from central Place D’Youville. The street is closed to traffic all summer long so friends and lovers can meander around and smell the roses.
PULA, CROATIA
Croatia might not come to mind when planning a vacation yet but one trip to the Istrian coastline will definitely make even the most cynical groom a total romantic. One of Caesar Augustus’ strongholds, Pula boasts a spectacular Roman amphitheater known as the Arena of Pula and has a remarkable number of Venetian and Byzantine architectural landmarks. In addition to the Arena, one can take in the spectacular Temple of Augustus, Triumphal Arch of the Sergii, Hercules Gate, and the 4th century Cathedral. The massive Park Plaza Histria Pula offers 368 modern rooms, a luxury spa, indoor and outdoor pools, and close proximity to a Blue Flag-awarded beach. The boutique Valsabbion features exquisitely designed (and spacious) rooms, a Mythos-Medical Spa Center, and outdoor heated swimming pool with sea views. Situated just outside of Pula, this spot is the perfect place to enjoy the company of your new spouse in a private yet gorgeous background.
SOUTH TYROL, ITALY
Honeymooning in Italy might normally entail a yacht off the coast of Positano, gallery hopping and cruising through fields of sunflowers in Tuscany or having a La Dolce Vita moment in Rome. Adventure seekers might pursue the mountain air of South Tyrol, a province in northeastern Italy affectionately known as “the other side of Italy.” This picturesque alpine region, situated on the border of Austria as well as the weather divide is a photographer’s paradise year-round. Heard of the Dolomites? Pack your skis and get ready for spectacular views and a landscape built for skiing, mountain climbing, hiking, cycling, and more. Ski resorts in the area include Kronplatz, Alta Badia, and the extremely popular Val Gardena - Gröden. If you’re a bit more into the apres-ski, South Tyrol’s Meran Spa is the perfect place to spend much of your honeymoon. Treat yourself to an immersive thermal bath experience with 25 pools, saunas, plenty of treatments, and a broad array of spacious rest and relaxation rooms. Looking to up your gastronomy game? South Tyrol boasts roughly 26 Michelin stars at restaurants like Alpenroyal Gourmet, Hotel Ristorante Elephant, and Parkhotel Holzner. Summer in the Alps brings a wide range of romantic possibilities with pristine lakes and outdoor pools, winding hiking trails over peaks and sweeping valleys, and wine tasting with the peaks of the Dolomites in the distance. A visit to South Tyrol is a masterclass in joie-de-vivre. What a way to spend a honeymoon.
(above) Arena of Pula Croatia.
(below) Remple of Augustus Croatia.
(above) Südtirol Alto Adige. Photo by Tobias Kaser
(below) Südtirol Wein. Phot by Tiberio Sorvillo
