M H A I R I S T E W A R T - P O R T F O L I O -
Exploring structural architecture and surface shadow in depth, this graduate collection takes inspiration from various aspects of structures such as window shape, arches, bricks, slats and the general silhouettes of buildings. Architecture can be described as an urban transformation; these garments are a wearable translation of architecture. This collection will showcase fabric manipulation, surface shadow and exaggerated shapes creating a sound structure resembling architectural silhouettes that were of great inspiration; this is in keeping and reflective of Balenciaga. “Architecture should speak of its time and place, but yearn for timelessness.” Frank Ghery. The collection consists of fourteen garments for a six outfit showcase. Designing for AW 16/17 she aims to embody her theme showing that architecture can be grand, immense and spacious. Some of these elements such as grandeur, elegance, timelessness and beauty are what the designer hopes to encapsulate within her collection and thus reflecting the way in which her possible consumer would feel and portray whilst wearing this collection. Shadows are light based silhouettes created by an object or person being in the way of light thus casting a shadow. Shadows can be frightening and symbolise the unknown but it is important to remember that these beautiful shapes of darkness cannot be created without the light. Everybody casts a shadow, which reflects unique elements such as their shape and size; this contributes to the diversity of culture and to individual characteristics. To emphasis the influence of architecture and to the unique characteristics of the individual the designer has entitled this collection ‘Walking Shadows’. Thus, reflecting that each person would create a different look, vibe and shadow whilst wearing the garments dependent on their style preferences. It is a contemporary collection for a varied market appealing to range of people. “There are dark shadows on the earth, but its lights are stronger in the contrast.” Charles Dickens The target market is aimed at twenty two to thirty five year old females however Miss Stewart wishes to emphasise that a person out with this age range with a contemporary high fashion interest or very strong personal style would be able to make a statement in many items from this collection. The target customer is thought to be highly motivated, active and goal orientated therefore the collection is aimed at those who enjoy fashion and buying themselves garments that are different, innovative and eye-catching. The designer also considered those who have limited time, due to a busy work schedule and personal life, who are keen to have a capsule collection that features garments that are interchangeable within their wardrobe. Thus allowing them to create different styles and looks with the dependant on the location or occasion that they are attending. The designer took this into consideration and aimed to design a ready to wear, high-end collection that incorporated the use of luxurious fabrics, innovative designs and techniques that would meet the original design brief. This would be reflected within the price of the garments therefore the target market would be those with a higher disposable income or those willing to save money to purchase a high quality garment that could be worn on a number of occasions.
SilhouetteThe aim was to focus on slightly exaggerated shape and creating garments with oversized elements, such as the curved base of sleeves, certain collars and palazzo style trousers. These shapes were influenced from the primary research of architecture; through this Miss Stewart has created garments with very contrasting silhouettes and details. Utilising an extravagant curved silhouette in parts of the outerwear and knitwear garments contrasted with edgy, angular pockets and linear fabric manipulation ensure that garments within this collection are being made with the aim to emphasis structure and create and catch interesting shadows.
FabricSome fabrics used within this collection are required to hold shape while others need to flow, to reflect this the designer used leather to hold structure and to create luxury whilst foiled suede allowed her to to create the metallic effect found in the modern architecture researched. The mustard polyester crepe draped beautifully and worked perfectly to create the desired flow; including a wool mix of various tones of grey and burnt orange along with the burnt brick orange shima knitwear created textural depth within ‘Walking Shadows’.
ColourWithin her accumulated research certain colours were influential and influenced the colour palette for ‘Walking Shadows’ to create a cool Autumn/ Winter collection with pops of colour added to reflect the warmth you want to feel during these seasons. Metallic silver and grey modern buildings were scattered in amongst older architecture within Manchester city centre thus inspiring the combination of cool metallic’s and the warmer and brighter burnt brick orange and mustard tones. Khaki green was incorporated into the collection as the older buildings and stonework often included greenery and moss. The designer feels the khaki and black colours tie together the brighter tones for a varied and complementary colour palette.
Fabric manipulation and box pleating To further develop the concept of surface shadow, resulting in inspiration from slatted architecture, and to create this on her fabrics; the designer incorporated different textured fabrics for the manipulation. This resulted in a different effect, look and hold each time. This became a key element of the collection through pin tuck sewing to create a ridge to catch the light and cast a shadow. Through incorporating box pleats into the mustard crepe she was able to create shadow within the pleat that would alter as the wearer moved thus adding depth to the structural collection and enabling it to flow with the body wearing it.
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™We're all mad hereâˆŤ is a collection of high-end nature that has been designed with the incentive of it being exhibited at London's Dover Street Market. The collection is all about showing your personality and creativeness with the help of this, wild, mad and experimental avant-garde collection. Alice's Adventures in Wonderland is a children's novel by Lewis Carroll. Although it is a book for children there has always been speculation of adult themes underlying the bizarre story line. His mental state was always questioned, as themes within the book are possibly drug related. There is likely to be elements of truth in this as when the book was written the use of opiates was common within the literary and artistic community. Various themes within the book involve time and space, nonsense and abandonment. These are all very deep subjects and some aspects feel very dark and consuming. This is fitting for the novel, as it is unpredictable and random. Focusing on the darker side of the story by using pops of colour such as red, pink purple and also tartan as a psychedelic mad almost drug induced sensation. Using tactile fabrics has created a different and multi-textured collection. The colours have come from imagery within modern day adaptations of Alice's Adventures in Wonderland. Designing for the mad hatters tea party inspired ruffled pieces, oversized and misshapen collars whilst combining the tailoring and waistcoats described within the book. Creating an androgynous look with a feminine twist. This collection will almost appear limitless like Wonderland itself. Showing we all have a fantasy, wish and mad side within our own personally tailored wonderland. The ideal target market for this collection would be women of differing ages that have the confidence, personality and the individuality to feel comfortable in this collection of stylish garments. These 6 outfits are for women who want to feel distinctive, fashion forward and enjoy being the centre of attention or life and soul of the party.
™Do you think I've gone round the bend?∫ ™I'm afraid so. You're mad, bonkers, completely off your head. But I'll tell you a secret. All the best people are.∫ Lewis Carroll
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The transition from boy to man a daunting experience in every boy’s life is ‘thought’ to happen after you leave education and join the ‘real world’. This collection ‘one last blowout’ is a travel based menswear collection for SS 2017. Taking inspiration from House of Holland and the WGSN trend Encounter Culture. This is a print and colour based collection for a mid level market position. The main inspirations are T WOANGLE, House of Holland and Vilebrequin. These brands all have a great Internet presence and social media following which is important for a collection aimed at the youth of today. The print featured within this collection is summery, tropical and youth holiday inspired showing intoxicating drinks. The collection is full of surf inspired shorts, tee shirts and lightweight outerwear, layering garments in a youthful way. This bright, elaborate and fun collection features humorous prints to convey a light and playful mood for the young at heart as well as the younger market. It is big, bright and exciting for the free spirited, fun loving and urban youth of today. WGSN’s Encounter Culture has inspired the colours. Using muted versions of the colours creates a palette suited to the target market of 18-28 whilst still being striking and eye-catching. Using dark blue, jade green, deep red, orange and a muted mustard yellow create a contemporary palette for this surf style summer collection.
One tequila Two tequila Three tequila
FLOOR
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MOTION
“Life isn’t about waiting for the storm to pass...it’s about learning to dance in the rain.” ‘eMOTION’ is a SS 17 sportswear collection collaboration with Adidas. Dancing whether it is for fun, exercise, competition or even as a profession is all about passion, motion, movement and excitement. This collection for Adidas shows each of these elements and if you don’t dance it will make you wish you did. ‘eMOTION’ shows fashion meeting functionality, your dance studio or stage will become a runway. Containing various fabrics from neoprene to sweatshirt jersey. The designer has used sportswear fashion forward silhouettes, shapes and garment styles to create a contemporary dance collection. Inspiration has come from vintage dancewear and Stella McCartney’s yoga and run wear for her Adidas Collaboration. There are five colours within this collection dark grey, light grey, navy, white and a bright pink. It is a very sleek colour palette with a pop of colour and motion print adding detail. The print featured within this collection is blurred shapes, which are actually dance motion shots from photographs. ‘eMOTION’ is a play on words as dancing is always very emotional from sensual feelings to showing and letting out frustration. Dancing is a great stress relief. It brings out emotions and is all about flow and movement, which is where motion came into it. Thus creating “eMOTION” SS 17 for active, fit, healthy and free spirited women of every age who want to look stylish whilst exercising or training.
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Mhairi Stewart x H&M is a children’s wear six outfit collection for the H&M AW16/17 line diffused from “Walking Shadows”. This collections is aimed at the H&M girls 1½ -10 age group, making the age band very wide. Whilst taking this range and focusing specifically on the ages between 5-10, the designer has succeeded in creating a collection of fashionable and age appropriate clothing. This collection contains a range of interchangeable outfits for every little ‘fashionista’ to wear. Inspirations have come from everyday structures and architecture. Architecture is vast and gigantic for a child of 5-10 just like the world to them. Having structure and exploring textures in a child’s life allows them to grow and flourish. Key elements for creating this tactile collection include showing curved structure juxtaposed with flowing softer fabrics creating comfort and security. Surface shadow is created through ribbed fabric. Curving silhouettes create a safe environment, warm and cocooning for AW. Using pleather and suedette along with jerseys, corduroy and ribbed fabrics create a contemporary collection. Merging new and different fabrics with those classically associated with children’s wear for a new look while remaining age appropriate and sweet. Mhairi Stewart x H&M is a bright and care free collection containing muted khaki and grey tones along with more eccentric colours of blue, red, yellow and coral pink. To create an eye-catching children’s wear line-up.
“Building a solid foundation in the early years of a child’s life will not only help him or her reach their full potential but will also result in better societies as a whole.” Novak DjokovicWW
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