NORTHERN FLINDERS RANGES

Monday 19th. After gathering together near our Mildura caravan park,

Martin’s GPS took us on the most convoluted way out

Flinders ranges in the distance

of Mildura and we headed for our first stop: the Quarantine Station outside Renmark. It was at the servo next to the station where folks grabbed coffees and Les’ affinity for toasted sandwiches began that we first learned about ‘Les time’. Morgan was our lunch stop

overlooking the beautiful bend in the Murray, but it is not a town to pick up supplies, or lunch for that matter. A short stop at Burra to stock up on supplies took quite a while and saw us arriving at the Peterborough Caravan Park with long shadows, as we made out first camp. Tuesday 20th After a chilly evening we got on the road headed for Copley. The Hawker Food Store proved to be the first stop on our Cafe Tour of the Flinders Ranges and The Jeff Morgan Gallery provided a nice diversion. Leaving Hawker we headed up the Flinders Ranges Way. In the distance, we were getting our first glimpses of the ranges. So, began our beautiful road trip. Every corner, another amazing view. At the end of this drive we turned back onto the bitumen past Parachilna – unfortunately

the iconic Prairie Hotel was closed. (However, hawk-eye Erica noted the opening times for later.) So, on to Copley. The caravan park at Copley is very simple and Mike expressed concern about the lack of grass on which to pitch their tent. We informed him that the outback is not noted for grassy camping as Mike was to learn as he hammered in those tent pegs. Wednesday 21st Next morning saw us invade the Quandong Cafe next door to the caravan park, where we sampled their treats – Quandong muffins and pies. Yum. We then took off along the road on the way to Arkaroola. The scenery was again magnificent as we travelled along this well maintained gravel road, although there was evidence of the recent floods in all the creek beds. The beautiful red gums framed the rock-strewn beds. After a brief stop at the Nepagunna, one of the aboriginal settlements along the way, we learned about the IPA lands, which could be incorporated in a future trip. So, we arrived at Arkaroola. Booking in to the Ridge Top tour on our arrival, Dot incurred a fine when she wrongly nominated 11 people for the trip, after failing to notice Lisa was absent when the count was done – oh dear. Trip booked, we then proceeded to try and find suitable camping spots in the rather awkward terraces on the powered sites. The sites are cramped and challenging for tents. This was where Erica learned – always put on the handbrake! Arkroola’s beauty is legendary; their powered sites are ordinary. After the mishap, Angela & Tom set off to do the Acacia walk, and the rest of us enjoyed a relaxing late afternoon, followed by G&Ts for some at the Tourist Centre. Martin, Dot and Les enjoyed the catered BBQ night under coloured lights with the fire pit glowing.

The steep climb along the Ridge Top track Thursday, 22nd Next morning we headed off on the famous Ridge Top Tour. We loaded ourselves into the open-bench seat Troopies, designed for maximum views, winds and movement up and down the seat as we ascended and descended the rough tracks. The views were awesome, but by the time we reached the Ridge Top, with its glorious views across the plains to Lake Frome, we were pretty chilly. We enjoyed our hot drinks and treats and then availed ourselves of the rugs provided. (“Rugs, you now say? Yes,

please!). After our bone shattering, yet fantastic trip, we enjoyed the resort facilities for lunch as we thawed out. Another toastie for Les (and others too). On reflection, the tour was indeed a highlight of our trip

Stubbs Waterhole at Arkaroola

The afternoon saw the walkers take off again and a number of us play cards, while we talked of the morning’s adventure.

Friday, 23rd The next day saw us heading for Stubbs Waterhole. We stopped at the Ochre Wall where the Indigenous people dug out ochre for trading throughout the region. After an easy drive through the

‘Jasper Twins’, two outcrops of red stone, the Stubbs waterhole drive (and region) is a geological

wonderland. The waterhole still had some water after recent rains and its stunning walls and beautiful eucalyptus were a feast for the eyes. Some of us enjoyed the riverbed walk through the gorge and Tom and Angela headed off on the extended 7Km loop track. Later that evening we saw the Yellow-footed rock wallabies when they were being fed near the centre and G&Ts were again enjoyed.

Saturday 24th The next morning saw us leave Arkaroola via the Copley Road again, as the link road north to Mt.

Freeling still hadn’t opened, much to Martin’s disappointment. We had hoped to visit the IPA lands

along the Copley road, however time was not with us. This is certainly a possibility for future trips. We did stop at Iga Warta, an Indigenous tourist stop on the road. They have an extensive display of historical pictures and artefacts and we took the opportunity to indulge in Quandong and Acacia ice creams, while Martin instructed one of the community members in the use of multimeters. It is on this road where Angela shredded her tyre (not just a puncture!) and Les and Erica come to her assistance. Late in the afternoon, we arrived at Farina, the railway ghost town located on the Old Ghan route.

It was here we found our favourite campsite, beautifully grassed and near the river walk. Mike was very pleased! The setting was picturesque with so many birds. We really enjoyed our secluded spot, our fire and our own water-tank flushing loo.

Rock wallaby feeding time at Arkaroola Tourist Centre (there are six there, if you can find them!)

Sunday 25th We also enjoyed our early morning walk along the river area, which has been fenced off by Farina Station to keep the cattle out. It was bushy and teeming with birds in the early morning. Later we explored the ruins of Farina (originally called “Government Gums”) and rued the fact that the famous

bakery wasn’t operating until the end of May.

Ruins at the old Farina township

Erica made a solo trip up the highway to Maree to have a look around and so she could say she had sighted the Birdsville and Oodnadatta Tracks. We then headed south and arrived at the Parachilna Pub around lunchtime and it is buzzing! A quick drink turned into an extended stay with many of us enjoying a bowl of their double cooked potatoes. After perusing their beautiful art works and looking at their large Ediacaran fossil sample (the closest we got to the World Heritage nominated fossil fields) we headed for Angorichina Village via the Parachilna Gorge. Angorichina Village is a pretty basic park, located in an amazing setting with views in all directions. Later in the evening a few of us did a river walk that had the most beautiful sliver gums, which were glowing in the afternoon sun.

Monday, 26th Leaving quite early for Blinman Mine tour, Martin and Dot narrowly missed a couple of kangaroos who jumped right in front of the car. The mine tour is highly recommended. It is a fascinating social history as well of the Cornish miners who worked the mine in family teams, as well as an interesting look at the way the mine worked. Encouraged by our tour guide many of us indulged in Cornish pasties from the bakery, which included a traditional sweet apple section at the end. It was good, as were the other home made cakes and slices we purchased here. Another excellent stop on our cafe tour of the Flinders!

Les about to experience the Cornish Pastie!

Leaving Blinman we headed a few kilometres down the road to the Wanda Cultural Centre. Quite a few purchases were made here – hats, art work, bags, earrings. An hour easily passed as people explored the lovely choices on offer and spent far too much money! The Great Wall of China was a spectacular feature, framed by a beautiful blue sky. It certainly warranted a stop on our drive south to Rawnsley Park. It also gave Les the chance to deal with a tyre puncture (and a reminder to use the handbrake when lifting a rear wheel, not relying just on Park). On

On arrival at Rawnsley, our booked campsites provided us with very comfortable spaces, close to an amazing camp kitchen (but alas, no grass, sorry Mike). Camps were set up, flights were booked and walking plans made. Tuesday, 27th Next morning we headed to Wilpena Pound. A number of us did the 7km return walk to the old homestead in the Pound and then later the more recent Wilpena Station complex with its extensive outbuildings, which is now used as a Park Office. A few climbed the lookout. Others returned to Rawnsley airstrip for their flights. Wednesday, 28th The following day Angela & Tom embarked on a 12 km walk via Fred Nob into the Pound. Bev & Lauren kindly dropped them off and picked them up and were rewarded with a delightful drive. Others headed to Brachina Gorge, a trip they rated as a highlight. Meanwhile, Martin & Les headed to Hawker to have Martin’s car diagnosed, as an inspection the

evening prior suggested it might be unfit drive. They went to Quorn so Les could access a pharmacy

Wilpena Pound from the air (taken by Angela)

The old (restored) homestead in the Pound

and returned to Hawker to receive the news that the car could be driven back to Melbourne gently for repair. This meant that no risky dirt tracks could be contemplated. That evening the group enjoyed a lovely meal at the Rawnsley “Shearing Shed” Restaurant as a finale to the main part of our trip. We ate as we heard the first rain of the trip falling on the tin roof.

Dinner at the Woolshed Restaurant at Rawnsley Park

Thursday, 29th Next day, we packed up and headed for Hawker. A final tasty morning tea at the Hawker Food Store capped off our cafe tour of the Flinders. Tom left the group at this point to go further exploring, and the rest of us headed for Renmark, where we stayed by the Murray River, some in cabins and others in our campers. Friday, 30th Departing Renmark, and heading home, we enjoyed a last lunchtime meal together at Wycheproof, at yet another fine bakery.

I think we felt that it was a very enjoyable holiday, with lovely sights and great activities every day. It wasn’t the hard driving Martin had hoped for, but the weather gods had had other ideas. There was

plenty planned, but people also had the opportunity to have time to follow their own interests or relax if they chose. There were many lovely campfires to warm us and the walkers made good use of this time. The flights were enjoyed by all who took them. All of us felt we had done some great exploring, in good company with the Flinders Ranges looking its fabulous best. We did wonder what hit us on our return Melbourne − all those cars, people and the weather − aghhhh. We felt there were plenty more interesting areas to explore in The Flinders and South Australia –perhaps Station Stays and more bush camping in the Flinders or perhaps Kangaroo Island. Stayed tuned.

Trip Participants Vehicle

Martin Foot & Dorothy Greiveson

(Trip Lead)

Andrew & Lisa Jantke

Les Ralph

Bev Davison & Lauren Vallance

Forester Diesel (SJ series) & teardrop caravan

Isuzu D-Max Ute & camper trailer Isuzu D-Max Ute & camper trailer Forester XSP (SH series) & AVan trailer

Erica Auld Forester (SJ series)

Cynthia & Mike Rennolds Outback (BP series) & trailer

Tom Morley Forester (SF series)

Angela Bombardieri Forester (SJ series)