Revival Record Store Day 2021 Drop 1 and Drop 2 releases announced
History of iconic brand Fred Perry
A delve into the iconic brand’s past
Issue One Spring 2021 £3.99
Magic Mod
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“Born a mod, die a mod”
Paul Weller’s new clothing line Celebrating women in subcultures The Specials’ legacy
e r h n t r No Sal and Pops Sou l
s r e Sist
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Contents
This quarter’s highlight: settling down with Magic Mod to dicuss everything from meeting his celebrity heroes to the importance of mod culture.
Life 4-5 Magic Mod
We found out what inspired the Magic Mod to create his unique act, merging subcultures with magic.
6-7 Women in subcultures
Leading on from International Women’s Day earlier in Spring, we chat to women about their involvement in subcultures and how included they feel.
Music 8 The Specials opinion piece
We explore the legacy of two-tone ska band The Specials and how their music is standing the test of time in an opinion piece.
9 Record Store Day
Take a look at our picks for Record Store Day 2021, everything from classic vinyls to modern day punk albums.
10-11 Sal and Pops
Meet Northern Soul dancers and musicians Sal and Pops. We discuss everything from their love of the music to their friendship and their plans for the future.
Fashion 12-13 History of Fred Perry
Firm favourite brand of all subcultures, we take a look into the back story of this heritage brand as well as asking what the classic polo shirts mean to you.
14 Paul Weller’s new fashion line
The Mod Father has released a new clothing range set for summer. We take a look as to what is on offer.
Magic Mod, Ben Taylor, opens up about his career (pg. 4-5) I am pleased to announce the first edition of Revival Magazine. We are a selection of like-minded individuals who want to share the latest news, exclusive interviews and lifestyle of British subcultures. We aim to be an inclusive and diverse outlet, catering for all your subculture needs. Revival Magazine has inclusivity at the heart. We want to give young people who are involved or interested in the mod, skinhead and soul subcultures a voice and to share your stories. You will read articles which are centred around youth culture within these subcultures and you are always encouraged to connect with us through social media. This original magazine is produced on a quarterly basis so will cover each season’s events and news. As you can see, every issue is divided into three sections: Life, Music and Fashion. This allows us to delve deeper into each aspect of
what makes British subcultures unique, from the music to the fashion and the lifestyles of those who participate. With just four editions published each year, we have a thriving online community which we encourage you to join. We share stories on our social media pages between magazines and create exciting content for you to enjoy. You can follow us on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter as well as being part of the Revival community by joining our Facebook group. There we have created a safe space online for you all to engage and meet other young people involved in these subcultures. We hope you enjoy this magazine and feel represented throughout.
Mia O’Hare, Editor 3
Life
A parka full T
he Magic Mod has been entertaining both his own fans and his musical heroes for the past few years. He has been unleashing his bag of tricks on the likes of Liam Gallagher, The Libertines and Reverend and the Makers, all who have taken the Magic Mod on tour with them. The magician, Benjamin Taylor, merged his passions of the mod scene and magic to create his unique act. When asked which of these came first, Ben said: “I believe it was magic, I was so young when I fell in love with magic. It’s always been a part of me, and I have Paul Daniels to thank for that, he was a genius.” Ben became obsessed with the art of magic at the age of 6 when he watched Paul Daniels’ Magic Set
day and night, trying to learn at least one trick a day to perform to his parents. The 30-year-old from West Sussex began touring his magic tricks across the country when he met Carl Barat from The Libertines. The Magic Mod said: “Carl gave me a call one day and asked if I wanted to tour. I was all over it, we had met a few times and been on the same line up a few times before, so we kept in touch.” Touring with Carl and The Libertines led to Ben being selected by other bands as their support act on their UK tours. He said: “My favourite tour was with Pete Doherty though, I feel I learned so much in the build up to that tour. “The best performance has been at Kentish Town, London with Pete
Magic Mod on stage with audience participant
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the last night of the tour. We had a great party after, I feel my performance was on point and my banter was class. It was amazing to have my family there too watching me. “But I’ve been so lucky to do tour dates with the Mod Father (Paul Weller), The Libertines, Reverend and the Makers and Peter Doherty and the Puta Madres. I have learnt a lot from each show.” Through touring his magic, Ben has met many of his own heroes including Liam Gallagher. He was introduced to the Oasis frontman by Carl Barat backstage. Ben said: “He asked what I did and I said ‘I’m The Magic Mod’, to which Liam replied: “That’s a cool name”. I showed him a few tricks and he loved it. After we talked about my love for the Mod scene and magic, it was a night I’ll never
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Born a mod, die a mod, that’s all you need to know. I will be buried wearing a parka
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of tricks forget.” It is not just musicians the Magic Mod has received praise from. Journalist and broadcaster Eamonn Holmes said: “I’ve met David Blaine and Dynamo, but for me, what you did was the best I’ve ever seen. Well done”. Ben met the ‘This Morning’ host whilst they were both filming for a show and decided to show off a magic trick. He asked Eamonn to pick a card and told him what card he had without looking at it. The link between magic and mod culture is a unique look that is part of Ben’s brand. When asked if he thought being a mod helps him stand out, he said: “Honestly no, I think being good and having a laugh makes me stand out. “I mean the mod style is an extra and makes me look cool AF, but if you are good enough you stand out from the rest.” It is unusual to have a magician as a support act for bands when audiences are used to seeing up and coming musicians instead of magic tricks. Ben said: “I’m not going to be everyone’s cup of tea as they want to see the music. But as I have been trusted by their heroes a lot of people are interested in what I have
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I have been so lucky to do tour dates with the Mod Father, The Libertines, Reverend and the Makers and Pete Doherty
to offer and see what I can do. “I feel I make a good impression and definitely had more love than not.” The Magic Mod’s style does help him identify with the audiences of the bands he supports. He said: “I mean I would look out of place at a Steps gig or a Justin Bieber concert, I definitely have a sense of style people like and love to see. It does make me look class on a stage.” The coronavirus lockdown measures have had a huge impact on Ben and the industry he is in. He has not been on a stage for over a year. He said: “It has been a big knock back as I had some amazing gigs and shows lined up but in this time, I have practiced lots and gained a bigger following on my socials with my ‘Magic Mod Monday’s’. “I think I’ve turned a negative in to a positive.” When questioned whether if it is ever likely he would not want to be a mod anymore, Ben said: “Born a mod die a mod, that’s all you need to know. I’ll be buried wearing a parka.” Above right: Ben with Pete Doherty Right: Backstage with Paul Weller Below: Meeting Oasis frontman Liam Gallagher with Carl Barat of The Libertines (right side of photo) All images courtesy of Magic Mod
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Life
‘There is a sense of togetherness’
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As part of International Women’s Day we’re sharing stories from women in subcultures
ubcultures are built on diversity and inclusivity where the only thing that matters is having a shared love of the same music and fashion. It is a safe space for women interested in the mod, skinhead and soul scene to express themselves. International Women’s Day was in March at the start of Spring, so we want to share with you the experiences of some young women within these subcultures. Ellice Arblaster, 24, from Leeds describes her style as ‘an amalgamation of a lot of British iconic subcultures’. She is influenced by the skinhead and punk subcultures but also takes notes from 60s mod, 90s grunge and some elements of goth culture. She first got into British subcultures through music by being raised listening to punk, 2-tone and ska. This then led her to the fashion elements of this genre of music. When asked if she found the subcultures welcoming as a young
Ellice combines subculture styles to create her look
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woman, Ellice said: “I would say to an extent I have found subcultures welcoming, for example at a festival or a gig where you’re surrounded by like-minded people, or even people who dedicate their lives to different subcultures, there is a sense of togetherness that comes with it. “Although I am an advocate for being yourself, and being an individual, there’s definitely a feeling of comfort being in a place where a lot of people are interested in the same clothing and music as yourself. “I think the biggest hurdle you encounter, as a young woman or just young person in general, particularly in the skinhead scene, are the gate keepers - mostly middle-aged skinheads who try and point out how you’re wearing something wrong, or that you’re not a true skinhead for dressing in any different way or liking different music, and I think really that’s the only thing that brings down the mood.” With such a distinctive style,
Ellice has had to deal with many stereotypes that come along with the look. She said: “The worst part about being involved in the skinhead scene is of course the common misconception from ill-informed people that you have a right-wing viewpoint. This is par for the course of wearing a Fred Perry and a pair of Dr Martens with a shaved head, people fear what they do not completely understand. “If they were to look into the roots and birth of skinhead, they would see that black influence and culture is the reason skinheads exist - but of course the existence of boneheads and their unsavoury behaviour and attitude is what sticks in people’s minds and the two become confused.” Ellice has found a welcoming online community of people of all ages and genders from all around the world that are part of British subcultures. She also runs a subculture blog where she shares fashion
pieces, music and book reviews and personal stories. Ellice said: “I’ve always been an advocate for standing out, and wearing whatever the hell you want, so whether that is to conform entirely to a chosen subculture, or just experiment with different aspects of your style, I always hope to get that message across.” For those thinking they would like to be a part of the subculture scene, Ellice said: “Do it! I’d say do your research and learn about the origin and the history of the subculture you want to explore, and if you feel a buzz and an excitement about it, then it’s the scene for you. “Knowing about the roots of the scene will definitely help you make connections with other people with similar views, and you’ll make so many valuable friends, from all across the world. Also, wear what makes you feel great, if wearing a traditional skinhead or mod look doesn’t make you feel good then experiment with something more, remember you don’t need
to commit your whole look to one subculture “uniform” you’re an individual too!” Caitlan Macleod, 22, from Stokeon-Trent describes her style as a ‘modern take on skinhead’ with influences from 60s and 80s skins as well as mixing in modern clothing and other subcultures. Unlike Ellice, Caitlan was not brought up listening to music related to British subcultures. Instead, when she was 12 she started to find other music through her love of The Beatles. From there, Caitlan discovered the mod scene after listening to The Who and then moved onto Northern Soul and reggae. She said: “On a whole, I’ve found subcultures really welcoming. I’ve spent a lot of time around skinheads, mods, scooters etc and they’ve always been really friendly. Most people love seeing young people coming up through the scene and take you under their wing.”
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Most people welcome young people because we’re the ones that will keep the subculture going
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Caitlan echoed the issues Ellice came across with older people online criticising their style. She said: “Skinheads especially are some of the friendliest people you could ever meet but online, I’ve had abuse from people because my clothing isn’t right, or they don’t think my haircut is right. “There’s a lot of keyboard warriors that have probably never actually been involved in the scene in person but think they’ve written the rule book.” The skinhead culture has been perpetuated with right-wing views by outsiders of these subcultures. Caitlan’s style reflects the skinhead look with her Chelsea girl hair cut (shaving the crown and back of the head but leaving a fringe) and can be judged by people without knowledge of the scene. She said: “It’s tough sometimes because it feels like you’re always having to prove yourself to people because of negativity from before I was even born. “When I first shaved my hair, my dad bought me a load of patches that said “boots and braces don’t make a racist” on because even he only knew about that side of the scene. It definitely pushes people out of the subculture because it is draining having people accuse you of being far right or racist because
of how you dress. “I’m very far left so it’s annoying that people make assumptions about me before getting to know me. I even wrote my dissertation last year on the politics of the skinhead subculture to try and raise awareness of the misconceptions.” Caitlan also said for those interested in British subcultures but don’t know where to start, to go to events. She said: “I joined a scooter club on my own when I was 16 because I knew no one into anything similar to me at all. The club was really welcoming and adopted me from the first time I went. “Social media is also great for meeting people. I’ve met some of my best friends through Instagram or Twitter and it makes going to events easier if you have someone to go with. We all had to start somewhere and most people welcome young people because we’re the ones that will keep the subculture going.” For musician Georgia McKiernan, 19, from Nottingham subcultures have influenced her songwriting. She does not define her style into one group but takes inluences from the 1960s and 70s. Her parents were into Northern Soul and punk the first time around and so Georgia was brought up around this type of music. She said: “For me, music is my biggest passion and I’m always keen to get into new tunes and find new artists that I can listen to or dance to. I usually discover this music through my parents and I appreciate this music because of their strong political messages and how they talk of the struggle between races and classes and genders. “Watching films such as ‘This is England’ and ‘Northern Soul’ allowed me to understand the fashion and the attitudes that come with the music.” Georgia has found British subcultures welcoming and very supportive. She said: “I think people are just happy to see that you appreciate a style and sound that isn’t as popular as it once was, and that you share likes and similarities. And if there is something that you’re not too familiar with yet, or a song you’re yet to hear then people are keen to share because they’re just as passionate.” Regarding any issues she has exerienced Georgia said: “Maybe being a woman makes people believe you’re not as quizzed up on subjects as male members, and you find there’s not as many women within the scene as men.” However this has not put her off the scenes and to those wanting to get into subcultures she said: “Start by listening to the music and understanding the context behind it and where these subcultures stemmed from. But most importantly don’t be scared.”
Top to bottom, Caitlan with her signature Chelsea girl haircut; Ellice channels punk style; singer Georgia takes influence from the 60s and 70s
Courtesy: Robyn Smalley
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Music
The Specials: More relevant now than ever before
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t has been just over 40 years since The Specials released their ground-breaking debut album. The ska band from Coventry are era defining with their merging of styles and politically sharp lyrics. The Specials are part of the 70’s and 80’s 2 Tone era which used music to address racial tensions throughout Margaret Thatcher’s Britain. 2 Tone picked up a big following and became a record label as well as a movement. With bands being comprised of white and black members, they aimed to combine the sounds of traditional ska, reggae and punk. They formed in 1977 and the group’s debut album ‘The Specials’ and second album ‘More Specials’ both went gold, as well as having seven UK Top 10 hits. Originally there were seven members of the band but over the course of 40 years there has been 30 different musicians come and go. ‘Too Much Too Young‘ topped the UK singles chart for two weeks after its release in 1980 and remained the shortest song to reach number
one for the whole decade. It was unlike any other Top Chart song of that year, which saw Don McLean’s ‘Crying‘ and ABBA’s ‘Super Trouper‘ take the top spots. Songs like ‘Ghost Town‘ still feel relevant today as a poignant nod to the unemployment, de-industrialisation and violence in Tory England. It provides social commentary of what it was like to be a young person in the 80’s under Thatcher’s rule which left many people out of work. The song, which reached number 1, was at first met with mixed reviews but by the end of the year magazines like Melody Maker, NME and Sounds named it “Single of the Year”. The Specials’ success was due to having a platform to share their views with a generation of people who felt the same. The band tackled issues of racism in many of their songs including ‘Racist Friend‘ which includes the lyrics:
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If you have a racist friend Now is the time, now is the time for your friendship to end Be it your sister Be it your brother Be it your cousin or your, uncle or your lover
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‘It Doesn’t Make It Alright‘ is a song about unity and brotherhood within a society that was perpetuated with division. In the 80’s there was a rise in right wing beliefs with the establishing of far right groups who adopted fashions associated with the ska movement. This changed the make-up of their gigs as they were marred by far-right groups trying to cause confrontations with both fans and the group that had black and white members. Even though these songs were written 40 years ago, they are just as relevant to today’s society as they were back then. Racism in England is quickly on the rise as more people seem comfortable to have those views again. The debate around Brexit and the Leave campaign started a surge of far right attacks and voicing of opinions, just like The Specials had mentioned in
their songs. Today, with the Black Lives Matter movement it goes to show that we do still have a long way to go. There is unity between races like there was back then, despite a small minority trying to appose it. Society needs to take time and reflect that issues from the 80’s are still happening right now, it is now just underlying but has always been there. Due to the current climate, The Specials released their eighth album last year which is the first release since 1998. The album titled ‘Encore‘ tackles contemporary issues including immigration, mental health and Black Lives Matter under the song titled ‘BLM‘. Terry Hall, lead vocalist, told uDiscover Music: “It’s actually quite sad the songs from our first two albums are still so relevant. The first time round we screamed about the injustices because we were kids, but now we’re trying to take a more mature view, though we’re still angry and we’re still trying to make people aware of what’s going on around them. “Yet having said that, it’s exciting too, because I feel the music hasn’t dated. Without wanting to sound arrogant, I think we made some important music and there’s a timelessness about it, so I hope new generations of fans can continue to latch onto it.”
With heightened racial tensions across the UK and the world, as well as unemployment on the rise due to COVID-19 we should take example from The Specials’ lyrics and act now before it takes another 40 years to see change.
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Just because you’re a black boy Just because you’re a white It doesn’t mean you’ve got to hate him It doesn’t mean you’ve got to fight It doesn’t make it alright It doesn’t make it alright It’s the worst excuse in the world And it, it doesn’t make it alright
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It Doesn’t Make It Alright -The Specials
Music
Our Record Store Day picks
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ach year hundreds of artists and record labels release a selection of exclusive, special and one-off vinyl records as part of Record Store Day. The records are only available from participating shops across the country with the aim to celebrate record shop culture and the art of vinyl. Due to the pandemic, this year’s Record Store Day will take place across two dates. There will be ‘Drop 1’ on Saturday 12th June and ‘Drop 2’ on Saturday 17th July. More than 250 independent record stores are taking part in the global event within the UK. The list of record releases has been announced and we have selected our top 10 vinyl’s you should look out for.
Happy Mondays, Hallelujah (Original, Club Mix and Ewan Pearson Remixes)
The Clash, If Music Could Talk
The Kinks, The Percy
Original punk rockers The Clash are releasing a double LP for ‘Drop 2’. ‘If Music Could Talk’ is a 1980 interview album with the band and their management rep. Originally only available as a promotional LP for US radio ahead of the release of their 4th album ‘Sandinista!’. It will be released for the first time as a limited edition double 180g vinyl package with new artwork. The vinyl features the band talking about and introducing tracks, along with those tracks themselves.
Regarded as one of the most influential rock bands of the 1960s, The Kinks are releasing a special picture disc album. The 12 inch vinyl is a reissue of their 1971 ‘Percy’ album which formed the soundtrack of the British comedy film of the same name. The record released in ‘Drop 1’ features ‘Lola’ and ‘God’s Children’.
Fontaines D.C., Live at Kilmainham Gaol
Madness, I Do Like To Be B-Side The A-Side
The Selecter, The Live In Coventry ‘79
The Irish post-punk revival band are releasing a live vinyl as part of ‘Drop 1’. Their 2019 debut album ‘Dogrel’ attracted critical acclaim and was listed as Album of the Year by record store and company Rough Trade and BBC Radio 6. This release was recorded at their hometown show in Dublin.
The London two-tone ska band are releasing a 12 inch LP of their B-sides. The record will contain B-sides from the first eleven Madness singles. Tracks include ‘Madness’, ‘In The City’ and ‘Mistakes’ on a heavyweight black vinyl. Released as part of ‘Drop 1’.
Two-tone band The Selecter are releasing a live album from a hometown show in 1979. The ska group, fronted by Pauline Black, are known for their hit singles ‘On My Radio’ and ‘Three Minute Hero’. This LP is part of ‘Drop 1’ and is pressed on a clear vinyl.
Pioneers of the Madchester movement, the Happy Mondays are releasing a 12 inch vinyl this Record Store Day. Originally released in 1989, the EP features seven tracks with several remixes of their hits ‘Hallelujah’ and ‘Rave On’. Pick up this record as part of the ‘Drop 2’ releases.
Ocean Colour Scene, Saturday
Small Faces, Complete Greatest Hits
The 90s band known for their hits ‘The Riverboat Song’ and ‘The Day We Caught The Train’ have produced a double vinyl for Record Store Day. Their 9th studio album, Saturday, is being released as part of ‘Drop 1’ on a neon green vinyl with original artwork and printed inner sleeve. The album which was first released in 2010 includes singles ‘Saturday’ and ‘Magic Carpet Days’.
A special release for Record Store Day ‘Drop 2’, the Small Faces singles from 1965-69 are being pressed into one LP for the first time ever. All of the band’s 7 inch singles are included in the compilation: UK and European No.1 – ‘All Or Nothing’ - Top 20 hits – ‘What’Cha Gonna Do About It’, ‘Sha La La La Lee’, ‘Hey Girl’, ‘My Mind’s Eye’, ‘Here Come The Nice’, ‘Lazy Sunday’, ‘The Universal’ – USA & worldwide hit singles ‘Itchycoo Park’ and ‘Tin Soldier’ – and more. The album is pressed on red, white and blue ‘mod’ splatter-vinyl and limited to 3,000 copies. Each LP will also come with a colour postcard with the LP cover artwork, hand-signed by Small Faces drummer Kenney Jones on one side.
The Police, The Live Vol. 1 and Vol.2
The English rock band are releasing two live albums for the first time on vinyl as part of their official live album collection. The two separate double LPs showcase the band on two stages. Volume 1 was recorded in 1979 at the Orpheum in Boston whilst volume 2 was recorded in 1983 in The Omni in Atlanta. Each record is pressed on heavyweight black vinyl’s and are both released as part of ‘Drop 1’.
Toots and The Maytals, Funky Kingston
The Jamaican band are one of the best-known ska and rocksteady vocal groups. Their 1972 landmark album ‘Funky Kingston’ is presented in a limited-edition turquoise and cream vinyl with only 3000 pressings for ‘Drop 1’. The band lost lead singer Toots Hibbert in 2020 and his influence of reggae cannot be understated, he was a key figure in the development of the genre and among the first to use the word ‘reggae’ which led to its popularisation. The full list of Drop 1 and Drop 2 releases can be found at: RecordStoreDay.co.uk Make sure to share with us your Record Store Day purchases on our socials. Photo courtesy: RSD/Rough Trade
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Music
l u So rs e t s i S
Meet Sal and Pops, the two young women shaking the Northern Soul scene 10
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est friends Sal and Pops have created a dance and singing act which they hope will keep Northern Soul alive. The pair met in 2009 when they were studying together at Jill Clewes Academy of Theatre Arts in Staffordshire. They created a strong bond after being paired together in shows due to their similar performance style. After studying musical theatre at separate universities, Sally Molloy and Poppy Beresford wanted to work together again to do something ‘unique and different’ to their degrees.
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I connected to it straight away and it freed my soul
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Northern Soul was a genre of music that Sal was raised on but really captured her attention when she was studying away from home. She listened to it religiously whilst feeling homesick and said: “Some people hear it, but I just feel it.” For Pops on the other hand, she had never come across Northern Soul until Sal introduced it to her in 2016. She said: “I connected to it straight away and it freed my soul.” Poppy began to research the array of music on offer within the genre and became obsessed with it.
25-year-olds Sally and Poppy have become Northern Soul sensations Photos courtesy: Chloe Ackers Sal said: “You know how studying is, sometimes you need a bit of motivation, something to just power you through and that music did that for us both. “We chose Northern Soul because it is a type of music that got us through hard times and continues to lift our spirits through good and bad.” This shared love for Northern Soul turned into them wanting to spread it to others who had never come across the music before. They originally called themselves ‘Passion and the Veins’ where they took their dancing and cover singing act to Northern Soul all-nighters at the Kings Hall in Stoke on Trent. This soon became a regular night out for them which resulted in footage of them dancing going viral
on Facebook. It was from that moment the pair decided to set up a YouTube channel where they could share their own videos of them dancing. They have achieved over 2.5 million views and over 15 thousand subscribers on YouTube. Pops said: “I have always been a mad head really since an early age, always first one up on the dance floor. “I found dance at 16 and then found Northern Soul which is a very free style thing, so it just fit right.” Sal said: “I have been dancing since the age of two when my mother took me to my ballet classes and tap classes. I have been dancing ever since and it is all I have ever known.” Being in the Northern Soul scene online they have faced a few challenges along the way. Sal said: “We’ve had a mixed response to our videos, the majority of people love what we do, as two young women keeping the music alive and spreading it to a new generation. “However, there is a minority of people who have an opinion on what we do and often to refer to the fact we weren’t around back when the Northern Soul subculture first started.” The 25-year-olds have also branched into singing and creating their own music. This year they have teamed up with the Northern Soul Orchestra to release two songs, ‘What If ’ and ‘Try My Love’. Sal said: “We want to spread this music, we want to dig up these old classic tunes and a lot of rare songs that nobody
has heard of and put our own twist on it as well as doing justice to the songs.
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Some people hear it, but I just feel it
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“But I think eventually we are wanting to write our own music.” They said: “When the pandemic hit back in March it didn’t stop us. It has only brought us more opportunity and desire to keep everyone entertained. “The support and comments we received only prove that music and entertainment is something we all rely on in times of need. We are so unbelievably happy to know that our videos are helping people keep positive in these times.” Sal and Pops have been inspired by the Northern Soul subculture and hope that other young people can be too. They both said: “To us the music is timeless it has affected us even though we weren’t there. “We felt it helped us through a time when we felt a bit trapped in a sense and it freed us. So we feel other people our age and younger could also benefit from this music too. “Especially in the world we live in today there’s a lot of pressure with social media and how people feel they need to look or act.” Check out Sal and Pops on their Youtube channel @SalandPops
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fashion
Fred Perry: The
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t is impossible to discuss British subculture fashion without acknowledging the significance of the brand Fred Perry. Launched at Wimbledon in the early 1950s by tennis player Fred Perry himself, the polo shirt was met with immediate success. The original shirts were only available in two colours, black and white, with the brand’s laurel wreath logo stitched into the left side of the chest. As the popularity grew, a redesign was implemented. The M12 polo was introduced which featured the iconic twin tipping around the collar. The tennis shirt was modified for table tennis where white shirts are not allowed, and so became the emergence of coloured versions. These new editions saw the Fred Perry shirt gaining traction off the court. In the 1960s the classic polos were used as a symbol of mod culture. The mod’s dressed up the shirts with tailored trousers and blazers in the era which first saw British subcultures begin. At the turn of the decade, skinheads and rude boys adopted the classic shirts. The 1970s was an era that produced many different subcultures. Suede heads and soul boys also wore the shirt with pride. The brand became a symbol of working-class youth movements and united them all with one piece of clothing. Each subculture dressed the polo shirt differently. The early skinheads were a division from mod culture when they became influenced by Jamaican reggae. They took pride in being a di-
verse and inclusive group. This subculture inspired two-tone ska bands The Specials and The Selecter who addressed racial issues within their songs. Their style featured Harrington jackets and Dr Martens boots paired with Fred Perry polo shirts. At the end of the decade, the skinhead subculture was hijacked by the National Front who took the skinhead look and made it harsher. This sub-set changed the outsider’s perception of what the skinhead subculture stood for. In recent years, Fred Perry has seen more right-wing groups adopt their polo shirts. The brand has insisted that they do not support or is no way affiliated with the Proud Boys in the USA who wear the black and yellow shirt as part of their uniform. They released a statement which said the Fred Perry shirt is an item of British subcultural uniform which many groups wear since they recognise the values it stands for. Fred Perry said: “We are proud of its lineage and what the Laurel Wreath has represented for over 65 years: inclusivity, diversity and independence. The Black/Yellow/ Yellow twin tipped shirt has been an important part of that uniform since its introduction in the late 70s, and has been adopted generation
Left: Skinhead wearing black and white tipped Fred Perry Polo shirt Above: Fred Perry (right) with Pat Hughes at a tennis court Image courtesy: WikiCommons
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after generation by various subcultures, without prejudice. “Despite its lineage, we have seen that the Black/ Yellow/Yellow twin tipped shirt is taking on a new and very different meaning in North America as a result of its association with the Proud Boys. That association is something we must do our best to end. We therefore made the decision to stop selling the Black/Yellow/Yellow twin tipped shirt in the US from September 2019, and we will not sell it there or in Canada again until we’re satisfied that its association with the Proud Boys has ended.” Chairman John Flynn addressed this issue in 2017, he said: “Fred was the son of a working-class socialist MP who became a world tennis champion at a time when tennis was an elitist sport. He started a business with a Jewish businessman from Eastern Europe. It’s a shame we even have to answer questions like this. No,
we don’t support the ideals or the group that you speak of. It is counter to our beliefs and the people we work with.”
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red Perry has been associated with young people willing to express themselves for over 50 years. The shirt has become a signifier of working-class culture and has been worn by diverse musicians of every generation. It has united youth culture through one shared item of clothing which represents more than just a shirt, every subculture and individual has adopted it as their own. The shirt has been worn by people as diverse as The Specials, Don Letts, Amy Winehouse, Mike Skinner, Bradley Wiggins and Andy Murray. There have been collaborations with artists and musicians over the years, all adding their own personal touches to the brand. It is quintessentially British and represents the youth movements from a post war Britain to modern day society where each youth culture has been able to create their own uniforms.
subculture icon designer shop in the centre of Nottingham. I was too young to really take notice, but I did discover Oasis thanks to my old man, but they were probably the trigger for me understanding style. “When I was in secondary school, I started to understand designer clothing and finding what sort of things I liked, plus I watched ‘Green Street’ and was taken by the football hooligan culture, the brands and style.
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The brand is like no other in its style and diversity, always moving with the times and staying true to its roots
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We asked Revival readers about what Fred Perry means to them Rick Collingwood, manager of Fred Perry store in Manchester, said: “My first exposure to Fred Perry was through metal/hardcore shows. It was always the Black/White/ Red M12 which was the shirt which was the one on that scene that I’d see. It was only later that I’d start to associate it with other subcultures. “Of course, it’s always been associated with so many subcultures, mod and everything afterwards but that was where it took my interest. I bought my first which I saved up for (for what seemed like forever) from Fred Perry in Manchester as a 16-year-old. Fast forward 13 years and I’d become the manager at that store! “What always strikes me is how everyone has their story; “passed down from my dad”, “saw Paul Weller wearing it” etc always the same brand but a different story. The kind of romance you can’t buy but comes with the strength of a proper British Brand.” Lee Howes, who runs a Fred Perry community group on Facebook said:
“I was about 9 years old then I got into the Mod scene through my local youth club, seeing the style of some of the older lads in their Fred Perry polos got me hooked. “I pestered my mum to buy one on the condition that I did jobs to pay her back. Got my first one (white with light blue/ dark blue twin tipping) and couldn’t wait to get it on for the youth club Northern Soul night. “Ever since then I’ve be devoted to the brand, the laurel is a badge of honour, worn with pride and has been widely adopted by so many different subcultures. The brand is like no other in its style and diversity, always moving with the times and staying true to its roots. “Always Different, Always the Same as they say!” Whilst Kallum Beazley said: “I first came across Fred Perry from my dad who worked in a
“Dad took me to see Oasis in year 10 so as I got older (15-18) I delved into indie music and every other band would have someone wearing it, so the infatuation started. I started wearing polos and through my search for music and my love for Oasis I then came across the mod scene. “It just feels like the brand is a gateway, it allows you to explore.
Such as going to see rock bands like Enter Shikari, through ska and mod culture with Madness and The Specials to get to Frankie Valli and Northern Soul. There is no other brand like it, so versatile but you can still spot it a mile off.” Caitlan Macleod said: “I got really into the mod and skinhead scenes in 2011/2012 when I was 12/13 and Fred perry was always the brand that really stood out to me. I begged my mum for a polo and got my first one for Christmas 2013 and I still wear it now. “My favourite thing about Fred Perry is how it unites people. Although I’m a skinhead, I’ve got a massive love for other subculture like northern soul, indie, mod etc and Fred Perry is something that links us all. I love how so many people can take the same polo shirt and style it completely different or it can have so much meaning to them! For me, it’s a brand of acceptance and unity.”
Let us know what Fred Perry means to you on own social media pages Fred Perry shirts worn different ways. (This page) Images courtesy: Fred Perrry Instagram
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fashion
The style council P aul Weller, frontman of iconic mod bands The Jam and The Style Council, chart topping solo artist and nicknamed the ‘Mod Father’, has released a new clothing line just in time for spring. The singer-songwriter, best known for hits such as ‘In the City’, ‘You Do Something to Me’ and ‘Town Called Malice’ has teamed up with English fashion label Sunspel. Sunspel has been handcrafting garments for over 160 for both men and women and have built a reputation for their quality craftmanship, timeless design and luxury fabrics. All whilst using silhouettes of the past to create unique, contemporary pieces which have sustainability at the heart. Paul Weller is seen as a fashion icon within the mod scene and has
been an advocate for the brand for years wearing their classic t-shirts. The collaboration came about when he was invited to Sunspel’s factory in Long Eaton, Derbyshire. The Mod Father was hands on with the designs, from sketching them out himself to selecting fabrics and reimagining the brand’s logo. The 12 pieces are a reflection of Weller’s own personal style and wardrobe. The range includes recycled polyester mac coats, straight leg cotton trousers and Sunspel’s classic t-shirts in a selection of three colours. The 62-year-old said: “I was trying to get them to make stuff that I couldn’t get anywhere, that was the idea,” Weller wanted the collection to be “very wearable things” and has always lived by the phrase ‘every
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Recycled Polyester Mac in Bottle Green
Supima Cotton Straight Leg Trouser in Navy
Cotton T-Shirt in Avocado/ Navy Contrast
Merino College Jumper in Navy/Raspberry
day’s a dressing-up day’. He told Sunspel: “It is because I come from that time where the music and the culture and the clothes were all entwined, they all said something about you as a person and defined you as a person as well.”
“The time I come from, when we were kids, if you went out on Thursday to the local disco, everyone dressed up. It was very much part of the old working-class culture, whatever you didn’t have, you made sure you looked good on a Friday or Saturday night when you went out. “I’m sure younger people are doing that now but it’s a much more casual style. Everyone made an effort and precision and detail was of great value and importance.” Taking pride in clothes is important to Paul, so has ensured that his collection with Sunspel reflected the quality and attention to detail he looks for himself. He adjusted the weight of the polo shirt material until it was just to the right standard for him. The Mod Father said: “They’re well-crafted, well-cut clothes and you’ll look good in them, and they’re quality and they’ll last.”
They’re well - crafted, well-cut clothes and you’ll look good in them
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Image courtesy: Sunspel
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Dressing down is not something the singer does. He said: “It is kind of an alien thing to me, with people wearing trackies or jeans and trainers.
The collaboration can be found here: www.sunspel.com Share with us your favourite pieces of the collection on our social media channels @Revival_Magazine and @Revival_Mag
Coming next quarter... Exclusive interview with DJ Katie Owen Brighton Mod Weekender preview Our summer festival reviews Summer subculture fashion and much, much more
Only in the next issue of Revival. On sale 1 August.
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