New to karting? read our 'getting started' guide by Michael Beckrest

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Getting Started

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GETTING STARTED

Are you new to the sport of karting? Welcome! If you have found this article then you have already taken the <rst step. Once you <nish reading this article you will be TM armed and ready with the proper know-how to guide you through this process. We have written this to help beginners by providing a basic understanding of the sport as (http://www.kartingsupply.com/brands/TM.html) well as some information on choosing a kart for the <rst time, locating a nearby track, a breakdown of the costs involved, knowing the different sanctions and organizations of kart racing, the equipment and supplies one will need, etc. In the Karting Supply blog (http://kartingsupply.com/blog) you will <nd other articles Aftermarket about general kart maintenance, tuning the chassis or engine for different track con<gurations, basic and advanced driving such as safe passing and overtaking, smooth (http://www.kartingsupply.com/brands/Aftermarket.html) cornering techniques, driving in "wet" and poor-weather conditions, navigating a wreck on track and more. ItalKart (http://www.kartingsupply.com/brands/ItalKart.html) Freeline (http://www.kartingsupply.com/brands/Freeline.html) KG (http://www.kartingsupply.com/brands/KG.html) Birel Art (http://www.kartingsupply.com/brands/BirelArt.html) MIR (http://www.kartingsupply.com/brands/MIR.html) Iame (http://www.kartingsupply.com/brands/Iame.html) DWT (http://www.kartingsupply.com/brands/DWT.html) Italian Motors Introduction: (http://www.kartingsupply.com/brands/ItalianMotors.html) Karting is largely viewed as the best way to develop the skills of a professional racing driver. It is where today's racing legends still train in the off-season. Pictured below is F1 champion Lewis Hamilton, one of the many drivers in the pinnacle of motorsport who started out in karting and yet still appears in a kart every once in a while for View all brands enjoyment. (http://www.kartingsupply.com/brands/)

Lewis Hamilton - European Karting Championship in 2000 in Valence, France

For those who want to be a professional driver or build any kind of career in motorsports, starting out in karts is the best way to get you there. You'll learn the fundamentals of racing and develop the critical driving skills and mechanical knowledge to succeed. In karting, the age at which you start does not matter. You will <nd drivers aged 50-65+ racing on the track. There is a kart out there that will suit you and a group of people you can race with. To <nd the kart and driver-category that is best for you we'll cover the options available and the differences in cost below in the sections to follow. To de<ne a racing kart: Kart racing or karting is the term used for the sport of racing a go-kart which is simply a form of open-wheel motorsport; the vehicles used are open and feature four small wheels, which are called karts, go-karts, or commonly known as shifter karts depending on the design or motor application. They are generally less than 1-inch from the ground and achieve on average speeds of 80mph on a track. Professional races are mostly taken place outdoors at scaled down race tracks, or circuits, with right and left turns. A racing kart compared to a conventional "yard" go-kart: racing karts achieve very high levels of speed compared to conventional go-karts, starting at 50mph with some of the fastest known as Superkarts reaching speeds of more than 160-175 mph. The amusement park go-carts commonly found are designed for general public use and reach speeds no more than 10 mph. The frame of a racing kart chassis is usually constructed of steel tubing -

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There are different variations and tubing diameters of a kart frames. Most "cadets" or baby and kid-size karts use a 28mm or 29mm frame; adult chassis (full-size karts) with non-gearbox engines use mostly 30mm or a special mix of 30mm with 31mm cross-rails or vise-versa which suits different grip-levels on a track; full-size shifter karts have been traditionally 32mm tubing diameter but recent versions from OTK Italy (Tony Kart) have been successful on 30mm frames in the shifter category. It de<nitely varies between the manufacturer or race team and there are over 100 different types of chassis designs available on the market.

Racing karts do not feature suspension, so a frame has to be eexible enough to work in-place of suspension and stiff enough not to bend or give-way during a turn. In North America, a kart chassis is de<ned as open, offset, straight, or caged. All CIK-FIA (international karting federation) approved chassis are open and straight. Difference between the types: open karts have no roll cage while caged karts do have a roll cage which surrounds the driver for protection in the event of a eip or wreck. Caged karts are mostly used on dirt tracks and are commonly known as “Oval karts” or “Dirt Karts”. In a straight chassis, the driver sits in the center of the kart. Straight chassis are designed for sprint racing, which include engine applications such as Rotax, TaG (touch and go), gearbox / shifter engines and other types. In an offset chassis, the drivers sit on the left side – to be used for speedway racing (oval tracks) having only left turns. The stiffness of a chassis enables different handling characteristics for different circumstances. Typically, for dry conditions a stiffer chassis is preferable, while in wet or other poor traction conditions, a more eexible chassis may work better.

Racing chassis have many different tuning features that allow the kart to be better adjusted for different track set-ups and changing weather conditions. More competitive chassis have removable stiffening bars at the front, rear, and side that can be applied to make the chassis handle differently. Braking is made from a single disc brake, directly mounted on the rear axle. Some karts will feature optional front disc brakes (required for shifter karts) that need more stopping power. Karts with front brakes have dual master cylinders (one for the front and one for the rear), allowing for front-to-rear bias adjustment. The weight of a race kart is typically between 165-175 pounds (or 75 to 79 kg), complete without itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s driver. In races, drivers are required to meet a minimum weight requirement of their particular class. This is to keep a fair level of competition between each driver. A kart weighing less than the other can signi<cantly increase the overall performance and create an unfair advantage on the track. If you are dialed-in by the track's tech just at the minimum weight, remember fuel consumption and the weight you will loose so you are not disquali<ed for being under-weight next time you come in after a race. Indoor Karting:

For birthday parties and corporate team-building activities, indoor karting has become hugely popular in recent years. Some indoor tracks use gas-powered karts while most of the newer facilities are now using electric karts. Gas-powered karts used to be the industry standard in indoor kart racing, but with environmental causes and new demands from customers, many kart manufacturers today have realized a new type of kart: electric-powered karts.

They are better for the environment and pose a greener-alternative than gas karts, which give indoor tracks a solution to reduce their environmental impact and also lower their operating expenses. Many kart manufactures in Europe are leading the force with indoor-kart manufacturing. The indoor tracks and operators in the rental market most notably are K1 Speed and Pole Position Raceway in the United States. Outdoor Karting:

Kart racing <rst began on outdoor tracks and is where the â&#x20AC;&#x153;realâ&#x20AC;? racing remains today. Outdoor karting is a very different world than indoor karting. Compared to indoor tracks, karts that commonly race outdoors have many other factors to consider. These factors include many things from track temperatures affecting tire grip, humidity or elevation changes which requires carb adjustments to the engine, etc. Even the slightest drop or increase of temperature will have a huge effect on the chassis and motor. A kart set-up perfectly for the morning practice session will be completely different by noon or mid-day. Consider this on race-day. Getting Started

Before buying a kart, make sure you know what type of racing class youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re going to compete in. Take a look at the most popular classes at your local track or the class you are most interested in and then go to the next scheduled race and <nd people to talk to. Getting a kart with a familiar motor package or brand of chassis that local racers know is important as you can sometimes get help on tuning and setup as well as <nd parts for that particular make if needed from the local team or dealer. You will generally <nd that racers and people at the track will go out of their way to help a beginner get started. First, know what you're getting into. Invest in a 1-2 day karting school or rent a high-performance kart to <rst get some experience. We recommend organized courses that give you real seat-time in a quality racing kart with knowledgeable instructors who are well experienced.

Secondly, go to your local track and spectate the next race event. This is the time to look for the popular classes - those having the most amount of drivers - which generally are the best classes where a new racer should begin. At the track, go to the ticket-agent or manager and ask for a print-out of the rules and spec sheets explaining different driver classes, local track con<gurations, the race dates and a track schedule, including any forms or licensing you might need, de<nitions of on-track procedures as well as some info on the various eags and warning-signs.

We recommend assessing your budget for karting: the kart, equipment and supplies you will need. Analyze and compare costs of buying new vs buying used and list the pro's and con's of each to determine what works best for you. Once you have educated yourself on the different types of karts and racing classes have an idea on what you are looking for, search for a good entry-level kart such as a non-gearbox kart or Briggs & Stratton 4-stroke.

It's usually a requirement for kart drivers to wear a snell-approved helmet and safety gear that is CIK approved for karting or automotive racing.

When just starting out in karting, the investment of a good quality helmet should be your <rst priority. For a SA2015 certi<ed and well-made helmet expect to budget $350 to $700. There are many helmets available on the market. This includes a range of manufacturers and helmets for a variety of head-shapes (oval, round, etc) and prices can widely vary between safety-ratings and the manufacturer/model. Most "everyday" helmets usually don't adhere to karting standards. The most popular helmets in

karting are the Arai and Bell, each with models that are speci<cally designed for kart racers. With the proven quality, <t, and extended line of add-on's and tinted visors available, these helmets are great choices for new racers.

For gloves, expect around $75 for a good pair that will last. Consider the hours of seat-time spent on the track and the time gripping a steering wheel. A pair of comfortable <tting gloves with decent eexibility and made of quality materials is critical to the driver’s overall performance.

There are many different brands of karting suits available, each offering many different styles and options. From basic multi-layered suits to full-padded suits that have built-in body protection panels. It’s important to note that some suits will not qualify for use on the track, and are required to meet CIK regulations. Kart suits do not need to be <reproof or FIA (automotive) certi<ed. It’s very important that the suit will <t the driver comfortably and will not restrict movement. Most drivers prefer a suit with breathability on the hotter days of the season, as body heat can drastically drain a driver’s energy and performance. A race suit can last multiple seasons of racing, if maintained and cleaned after each use, as well as being stored properly in a suit bag after each weekend or during the off-season.

Karting shoes are constructed of thin narrow soles to ensure enough sensitivity of the pedal, and grip of the heel for solid movement when the heel is positioned on the eoor tray. There are two types of styles available – a low-cut style and a high ankle style (boot). A padded ankle cover is a regular requirement for most karting tracks and with most racing series. Driver’s prefer shoes with a Velcro strap which cover the laces to avoid getting caught and tied-up on something.

Rib-protector’s are not enforced as a requirement, however they are highly recommended for drives to avoid serious injury on the ribs from potential wrecks that or in strain put on the ribs from high lateral g-force achieved in corners for the faster karts like shifters. Cracking ribs are very common injuries among karting. An easy clip over the track-curb that transfers to the side of the seat is enough to break a rib. Be very careful of the foam rib protector’s are offered to the market, these do very little in offering any level of protection. The recommended protector’s have a strong “shells” constructed of carbon <ber. Although carbon <ber rib-protectors are usually expensive, they will save your ribs. Karting vest’s and rib-protectors come in different sizes so be sure you match up to the measurements offered on the sizing chart and that the vest itself offers enough adjustability. It is the driver’s preference to wear a vest on the outside of the suit or inside, but most recommend wearing on the inside to be covered.

It is vital to take the recommended safety precautions of wearing a neck brace. A kart can collide with another kart by the wheels touching, resulting in a eip, top-side-over. If the driver is unprotected by not wearing a neck brace, the potential injuries are very serious and have proven to be fatal. A brace that has saved lives is the Leatt Kart brace. There are other neck devices similar to the Leatt available on the market, but the Leatt is vouched for by many in Karting and is highly recommended. Make sure your kart is properly set-up and you are <tted with the correct seat-size. Most karts do not include owner-manuals or "getting started" guides other than what you would <nd on the web. It's important to know you are comfortably <tted and the kart is set-up properly.

Once you are ready for the track with the right safety-equipment / racewear, tools and supplies then <rst attend a "Test & Tune" day and take some time get acquainted with the track and various racing procedures. Seek out coaching and tuning advice; practice, practice, practice!After you feel comfortable and ready then it is time to enter a race and test yourself!

On race-day, there is usually a run-down similar to this: 1) Entry form and check-in: every track or racing club will be unique and each will have different procedures and requirements so allow plenty of time to get these things out of the way before signing up on the morning of the race. This is where the driver will pay for their track fee's and enroll with their kart info, race numbers, etc. You will then have to pass inspection by the track-oqcial who will look over your kart and ensure that bolts are properly safety-wired (steering wheel bolts, hubs, etc) and that your chassis and engine meet the necessary rules and regulations for the class or category you are going to race in. The oqcial will also check over your safety-equipment (helmet, race suit, gloves and shoes) for proper ratings and to make sure it is CIK approved. Followed by the equipment review will be race tires, chassis specs, etc as well as the homologation numbers for your engine and chassis for reference. 2) Weigh-station: to make sure you + your kart (including all of the gear you will have on) are not under the weight minimum for your class, you will want to head over to the weigh-in station where the other racers in your class will most likely be after check-in. This process is to ensure that every driver meets the weight criteria of each class to prevent drivers having a clear advantages over the <eld. A kart and driver combination weighing less than another on the track will accelerate faster out of the apex in the turn. 3) Do a check-over: <rst, make sure that every bolt, tie-down and fastener on the kart is tight and as it should be to ensure that everything will be good to go. Secondly, we advise to run through the day's schedule and track plan again or if you haven't already so that you will know you starting grid positions for each heat of the race and when exactly your class is scheduled to go out for initial practice sessions. It is a good to know the order of things for the day so that you are well-prepared. 4) Driver's brie<ng: you will be called over to the track-oqcial who will brief everyone on the day's procedures for the race and important information you might need to know. This is brief information only to notify the drivers and crews of any recent changes to the day or to answer questions that may have developed since time of enrollment. 5) Practice / qualifying session: This is where you want to carefully warm-up the kart and <nish off with any <nal adjustments that may be needed. It is usually not the best time to make any signi<cant changes to your kart unless you have the time as these sessions are very short and you should already have the kart set-up from the previous day's test & tune or open-practice. Try to set a good lap but don't worry about setting the fastest time here because if you push the kart too hard in qualifying you may struggle with the next heats that follow. You want to use this time carefully so that you and the kart are fully prepared for the upcoming heats. 6) Race-time: depending on the class, the race will begin after a rolling start or standing start procedure before the eag drops. Drivers will ether be watching for a green or red light indicator if a eag is not being used. A eag is usually raised for rolling starts and dropped for standing starts. When the race ends drivers will see a checkered eag. 7) Post-race: after entering from a race and back into the pits, drivers will be directed towards the pit exit/entrance where there is usually a weigh-in station where each kart is weighed and checked over by the track's tech oqcial. Racing classes:

Which one is right for you? Here is a complete break down of the different racing classes along with the rules and speci<cations of each. The classes below may not be exact to your local track or where you plan to race at, so verify with the track or series prior to choosing your class. Each class is separated by the driver’s age, combined weight, size of kart, engine displacement as well as any other rules or requirements that may apply. The racing classes or driver categories in karting are based on the driver’s age, weight, engine and type of kart and are supported by various regulations and rules set forth by the sanctioning-bodies or series-oqcial’s of karting. These factors form a drivers racing class and the regulations or sporting rules imposed help to keep competition fair on track and the sport of karting organized. Here in North America, those new to karting may <nd the number of classes available a bit daunting when trying to <gure out the best one to start out in. We recommend taking a personal-assessment to this decision starting with what the driver’s budget allows for and then to choose the class that <ts them best in this area. Every class is differently suited for a driver and we will go into detail of the most popular classes currently made up by the WKA in the list here below followed by the costs of karting in further reading. The U.S. Manufacturers Cup: A series that is made up of 5 races and is national championship based on sprint-style racetracks and karts with 2-stroke engines.

Kid Kart

Ages 6 to 7

Restricted 50cc Comer

Cadet Sportsman 1 & 2

Ages 8 to 12

Restricted 80cc Comer K-180

Komet Sportsman

Ages 8 to 12

Restricted HPV Komet piston-port

Yamaha Sportsman Lite

Ages 8 to 12

Yamaha 2-stroke

Komet Lite and Heavy

Ages 15 to 35

HPV Komet Piston Port

Yamaha Supercars Lite and Heavy

Ages 15 to 35

Yamaha 2-stroke

TAG - “Touch and Go”

Ages 15 to 35

BM Jaguar, Cheetah SQ 125, Comer K365, Easykart, Motori Seven, Parilla Leopard, Rotax FR 125, Sonik TX, Sonik VX, Vortex Rok, Vortex Rok TT, PRD Fire Ball, X30 kart

Yamaha Masters

Ages of 35 and up

Yamaha 2-stroke

Gold Cup Series A race series based on karts with 4-stroke engines

Kid Kart

Ages 5 to 7

Restricted 50cc Comer

Sportsman 1 Lite and Heavy

Ages 10 to 12