小眼睛看美食西餐篇2017 10 17 by Jiaming Wu

图书在版编目（CIP）数据小眼睛看美食. 西餐篇 / 邬稼铭著. — 深圳 : 海天出版社, 2017.9 ISBN 978-7-5507-2107-4 Ⅰ. ①小… Ⅱ. ①邬… Ⅲ. ①西式菜肴－烹饪 Ⅳ. ①TS972.11 中国版本图书馆CIP数据核字(2017)第179767号

小眼睛看美食·西餐篇 XIAOYANJING KANMEISHI XICANPIAN

出品人

聂雄前

责任编辑

南

责任校对

丁放鸣

责任技编

梁立新

装帧设计

知行格致

出版发行

海天出版社

地

址

深圳市彩田南路海天综合大厦 (518033)

网

址

www.htph.com.cn

芳

童

芳

订购电话

0755-83460397（批发） 83460239（邮购）

设计制作

深圳市知行格致文化传播有限公司 Tel：0755-83464427

印

刷

开

本

787mm×1092mm

印

张

17.25

字

数

220千

版

次

2017年9月第1版

印

次

2017年9月第1次

定

价

98.00元

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李小明，曾在中国上海希尔顿酒店西餐部、德国法兰克福顶级的黑星餐厅、加拿大多伦多的希尔顿酒店、加拿大乔治 · 布朗烹饪学院任总厨和导师，有 30 多年的工作经验，已获得 2017 年加拿大安大略省餐饮界杰出人物和加拿大厨师中的最高级别奖项。 These are the words of Chef Oliver Li. He has more than 30 years’ experience in the Restaurant Industry. He was the former Executive Chef at the Western Cuisine Department of Shanghai Hilton Hotel, Toronto Hilton Hotel and is the current instructor at the Chef’s House at George Brown College. He has won numerous awards for his accomplishments. Chef Oliver Li is regarded as one of the most

recognized chefs in Toronto’s culinary scene.

我的西餐之旅

教每道菜的食材和制作方法，尽可能地学习和理解让人“惊艳”的摆盘和烹饪技巧；我很荣幸地参观了米其林三星餐厅的厨房，里面分工明确，整洁有序；最开心的是见到了法国著名的米其林三星餐厅大厨乔斯林 · 赫兰德（Jocelyn Herland），送给他《小眼睛看美食 · 中餐篇》，请他在菜单上为我签名。在纽约的喧嚣、巴黎的寒风中，我乘坐地铁从一家餐厅到另一家餐厅，甚至为了一碗日本拉面，在周六凌晨一点默默等待，找到我要品尝的味道，寻觅美食和品尝美食的过程是快乐而难忘的！好的料理是对食材的尊重和正确的处理方式，用传统与创新的烹饪方法，传递出单纯的、自然的信息，给食客留下很多痕迹。在我的西餐之旅中，我深深地感受到：法国烹饪技术与现代感的完美结合，精雕细琢出许多新颖的艺术品；多种味道刺激我的味蕾，准确的口感和温度，唇齿间的极美享受；美食和烹饪，更像一种语言，谱写出美丽的篇章；舒缓的音乐、巴洛克建筑风格、水晶和银器的触觉创造出

在深圳，每逢节假日和周末，我常吃西餐，但感觉它离我有些遥远。出国留学

一个和谐的氛围。笔记本记录了我享受美食的快乐，相机和手机拍下的两万多张照

后，在学校每天吃西餐，很多食材和味道并不熟悉，慢慢习惯后，西餐时常给我带

片记录了我与美食的瞬间。在美国和法国的餐厅，为了不影响客人用餐，不方便使

来惊喜。我渐渐地发现，和中餐一样，西餐也蕴含着无穷的奥秘。带着心中无限的

用照相机和闪光灯，室内灯光很暗，用手机拍的图片效果不太理想。但我觉得这并

好奇，2015 年暑假完成第一本中餐美食书后，开启了我的西餐美食之旅。

不重要，真实的感受和经历已经超越了一切。

我翻阅了大量的书籍，在网上查找资料，了解西餐的历史、特点、礼仪等，它们

在一年半的时间里，我采访和体验了近百家餐厅，品尝了精美的菜肴；拜访了

像电影的画面出现在我的眼前，让我慢慢走进了西餐美好的世界，与我的距离不再遥

米其林大厨，向其请教西餐的制作过程；与大厨共同烹制美食，尝试制作家庭西餐。

不可及。在多伦多的日子，我锁定要采访的餐厅后，给餐厅负责人发了很多封邮件，

我从不认识西餐的食材，到慢慢了解西餐的特点、饮食文化和烹饪技巧，最后自己

结果没有任何回应，这让我有些沮丧。一个偶然的机会，我得知一位华人经营着一家

也会做西餐了，对西餐烹饪有了无限的热情和丰富的想象，这其中的过程非常有趣，

有 60 多年历史的著名牛扒店，我立刻电话预约，然后登门拜访，向他讲述我想了解西

有太多的故事和美好的回忆，让我终生难忘。

餐、采访餐厅和大厨、出书的计划。也许是一个胖胖的少年正在做疯狂的事情，也许是我的真诚打动了他，我们从素不相识变成朋友，开始了我的西餐之旅的第一站。置身在国外，地域不同，语言不同，我想采访餐厅和大厨，并进入餐厅的厨房

《小眼睛看美食 · 西餐篇》以时间为顺序，以游记的形式，分为加拿大多伦多、美国纽约、法国巴黎、中国深圳、家庭西餐五个篇章。其中有西餐的特点、历史、礼仪和餐厅、主厨、菜式的详细介绍，我对西餐的感受和点评，我自己制作的家庭

向大厨学做菜，这是一件非常难的事情。餐厅的主厨，特别是米其林餐厅的大厨，

西餐。美食是我的爱好和追求的生活方式，我并不是烹饪技艺高超或是有天赋的大

他们如明星一样，游走在世界各地的餐厅，不是权威的媒体是不可能预约见面的。

厨，而是一名喜欢寻找美食、品尝美食、烹制美食的少年。

我在网上查找加拿大多伦多、美国纽约、法国巴黎、中国深圳著名的餐厅，提前两

寻找美食、品尝美食、烹制美食是快乐的，我一直在追逐我的梦想。感谢刘奇

个月以邮件方式预约，讲清楚我要采访的内容。经过努力，我终于完成了走进餐厅

量哥哥、万博姐姐陪我走过纽约和巴黎的美食之路，感谢绍菲姐姐、马丁老师、蔡

的厨房、学习西餐制作和与大厨共同烹制美食的愿望。

佳颖姐姐在英文翻译中给予我的帮助，感谢丁艳姐姐和徐彦波叔叔在摄影方面对我

在美国和法国，我以采访和体验的方式完成了美食之旅。带着期望和对新事物的好奇心，我走进了拥有世界优秀烹饪技术的米其林餐厅、百年牛扒店、著名的甜品店和咖啡店、特色餐厅、农贸集市等，寻找美食、品尝美食。我向侍者和主厨请

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

的指导，感谢给我采访机会的餐厅，感谢爸爸妈妈让我完成了我的美食梦！一路走来，要感谢的人很多很多。我将带着我的美食梦继续前行 ……

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

MY GOURMET JOURNEY 我的西餐之旅

fellow food lovers like myself.

My Gourmet Journey Before studying abroad, I had previously dined at restaurants serving Western cuisine in Shenzhen for Christmas or birthdays. Yet I always felt there was a gap between the food and my understanding of Western cuisine. It was only after I studied in Canada and had meals at school that I got accustomed to the flavors of Western cuisine. I found that like Chinese cuisine, Western cuisine also has its own elements of captivation and this realization made me curious about Western cuisine. So, with my thirst for knowledge, I continued my gourmet journey this time into Western cuisine after my first publication on Chinese cuisine written in the summer of 2015. As I started my journey, I gathered an enormous amount of information from books and the internet to learn about the history, culture, characteristics and the traditions of Western cuisine. The findings were like the scenes of an old movie, the opening of a magical door to Western cuisine. I aimed to discover the delicacies of some of the top restaurants in Toronto. And so I contacted them by email in order to begin my journey, but their silence frustrated me at first and seemed to derail the journey that I had just started. But, I was not discouraged, through my research, I knew of a popular local steak restaurant with over 60 years’ history that was run by a Chinese chef. I made an appointment with him and told him how much I was interested in Western cuisine and to my surprise he graciously allowed me to interview and learn at his restaurant. Perhaps it was my love of food, or the Chef’s curiosity about a teenager asking for an interview or the mutual recognition of another food lover, but we eventually became friends and his restaurant became the first stop on my gourmet Western journey. For this book, I decided on in-depth interviews with notable chefs, recipes and my own reflections as I introduce Western cuisine to

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

It was a big challenge to contact restaurants, to get into their kitchens and learn different recipes from the chefs because of the change in ingredients, language barriers, and the busyness of chefs. Michelin chefs are always busy – they have a full schedule and travel around the world to look for ingredients and inspiration. It was incredibly hard to make an appointment with them, unless you were from a notable newspaper or social media platform. So here is what I did: I researched many popular restaurants in Toronto, New York, Paris and Shenzhen on the internet and made appointments with them by email two months prior to the interview. I explained to them what I wanted to do with my book and requested their approval for the interview and recipes. After all my efforts, my wish of walking into the kitchen of popular restaurants, learning and making world-class cuisine with the top chefs in their fields came true and this is my journey. Although my journey started out in Toronto, it would lead me to the United States and eventually France. My curiosity led me into Michelin restaurants with state-of-the-art cooking skills, steak restaurants with a long history, patisseries, cafés and markets. I looked for unique and delicious food, and tasted them. I interviewed servers and chefs about the ingredients and cooking methods and even learned the art of plating. In my journey, I was lucky enough to be invited to visit the kitchen of a Michelin Three-Star Restaurant, where everything was very organized. The most surprising and happy experience during the journey was that I got to meet the well-known Michelin Three-Star Restaurant chef, Jocelyn Herland. I gave him my first book My Gourmet

Journey: Chinese Cuisine as a present and asked him for a signed menu. The bustling pace of New York and Paris could not stop my steps – I took the subway and travelled from one stop to the next. Once I even lined up for ramen at one in the morning to find the flavors that I wanted to explore. It was an unforgettable to find and taste these gourmet meals from the chefs who are at

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

the top of their field. A good cuisine with sophisticated skills pays respect to the ingredients – it is a way to inject new inspiration into traditional cuisine and to convey a simple and pure message to food lovers. During my journey, I was moved by the perfect combination of French cooking skills and the modern design, which was like a delicate art piece. The complex flavors, smooth taste and accurate temperature control to bring a superb enjoyment to my mouth. Gourmet cuisine is like a

西餐那些事儿 ·西餐文化

language, a beautiful article, a piece of gentle music, the Baroque architecture, the crystal and the silver metal, all of which leave a harmonious impression on the audience. My food notebook and my 20,000 photos are the record of these sharable moments to document my journey. Some of the photos may be a bit dim because we were not allowed to use the flash in some restaurants in New York and Paris. During this one and a half year journey, I visited nearly a hundred restaurants. I tasted their dishes, met with Michelin chefs, and learned how to make Western food from them. At first, I knew very little about the ingredients . I then learned about the characteristics, culture and cooking skills of Western cuisine. Step by step, I started to make Western dishes by myself. The process was filled with touching stories and beautiful memories and I feel a surge of passion and creativity for food now more than ever before. I know this experience would be my treasure.

My Gourmet Journey: Western Cuisine is written in chronological order and divided in five parts according to different locations such as Toronto, New York, Paris, Shenzhen and at my home. It contains contents on the characteristics, culture and traditions of Western cuisine; introduces restaurants, chefs and their dishes; my comments on dishes and the dishes that I

“西”是西方的意思，“餐”即饮食、菜肴。西餐在大多数情况下指欧洲美食，即以法、英、德、意、俄等国为主要代表的餐饮，当然还包括东欧各国、地中海沿岸各国和拉丁美洲一些国家（如墨西哥）的菜肴。西餐一般使用橄榄油、黄油、番茄酱、沙拉酱等为调味料，以不同的主食搭配一些新鲜蔬菜，如番茄、西蓝花等。

made at home. I love food: it is my hobby and way of living. Even though I am not a talented chef

西餐以刀、叉为餐具，以面包为主食，以长形桌为餐桌。特点是主料突出，形、色

myself, I am always in search of new tastes, new cooking methods the newest ideas and amazing

美观，口味鲜美，营养丰富，供应方便等。西餐包括餐汤、前菜、主菜、餐后甜品

dishes to sample. I wish to thank the people who helped me along the way and whose help made this journey and book possible: Qiliang Liu and Wanbo, who accompanied me to New York and Paris; Shaofei,

及饮品。西方人并没有明确的“西餐”概念，这个概念是中国人和其他东方人的。西餐烹饪起源于古埃及，金字塔铭文中记载了当时尼罗河流域丰富的物产，包

Martin and Karan Cai for the English translation and Dina Ding and Yanbo Xu for valuable photography

括蔬菜、水果、鱼类和禽类等，以及闻名遐迩的面包制作业和糖果业。古埃及人创

lessons. Special thanks to the restaurants in Toronto and Shenzhen, which gave me the opportunity

造的一些食品被人们一直食用到现在，并在世界各地菜单中继续发挥着重要的作用。

to interview their restaurant. Last but not least, I want to send the biggest thanks to my dear parents, who have helped me make my foodie dreams come true. This book would also not have been possible without the countless help of many others, and I would like to thank them for spending their time and expertise in helping me along this journey. A heart felt thank you to all of you. I will continue to endeavor to pursue my gourmet dreams...

西餐烹饪兴起于古希腊、古罗马时期。在欧洲，古希腊率先踏进人类文明的大门，古希腊烹饪艺术的产生和发展为以后西餐烹饪、餐饮服务的兴起和发展打下了基础。由于受到古埃及和古希腊文化的熏陶，古罗马人的烹饪方法上从欧洲最早的烹饪书中学到很多知识，烹饪技术和厨师的社会地位也得到很大的提高，意大利是古罗马的发祥地。古罗马时期的宴会和饮食极其奢侈、繁荣，成为烹饪发展鼎盛时期，可以说古老的意大利饮食是传统西餐的鼻祖。中世纪以后西欧烹饪文化发展。公元 6 世纪初，日耳曼人建立了当时西欧最强大的国家 —— 法兰克王国。公元 843 年，法兰克王国被国王路易的三个儿子瓜分成

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

THE CULTURE OF WESTERN CUISINE

对世界各地的影响也越来越深。自哥伦布发现美洲大陆后，西班牙、法国、荷兰、英国等国殖民者相继入侵，随着英国人的迁入，英国饮食文化在北美扎了根，现代西餐中的美国菜式是在英国烹饪的基础上发展起来的。随着国际政治、经济、文化交流的日益发展，欧美饮食文化流传的范围更广了，更重要的是生产的机械化、自动化，烹调设备和工具不断发展变化，烹调工艺不断进步。合理膳食、平衡营养与饮食卫生是现代烹饪的重要组成部分，现代科学技术和营养科学知识的广泛运用是现代西餐烹饪发展的一个重要标志。

The Culture of Western Cuisine Western cuisine encompasses the dishes and cooking skills originating from Western countries like France, Britain, Germany, Italy and Russia, as well as some countries in Eastern Europe, Latin America (like Mexico) and those alongside the Mediterranean Sea. Western cuisine relies on all kinds of flavoring, for example, olive oil, butter, tomato sauce, mayonnaise and much more. The main dishes are usually served with vegetables like sliced tomato, broccoli or others. Compared with Chinese cuisine, there are many differences between the two cuisine cultures. The

三个国家，即现在的法国、意大利、德国。公元 8 世纪，查理大帝曾命令通往朝圣

utilization of forks and knives are required to eat Western cuisine. Bread is consumed instead of

地沿途的修道院和教会要设置接待朝圣者的设施，有食堂、寝室、面包房、酒店、

rice. The dining table is generally rectangle instead of circle. Western cuisine prefers to put salad

啤酒冷藏室等，现代欧洲饭店起源于修道院之说，大概出于此。后来，罗马人的许多生活习惯、习俗礼节和烹调技艺很快传给了英国人。14 世纪的手抄食谱显示了法国烹饪对英国烹饪在术语和加工方法上的巨大影响。中世纪英国食谱的另一个重点

to accompany the main dish to for aesthetics and to supplement and balance the dish. A formal dinner includes drinks, soup, appetizer, main course, and dessert. For Westerners, it seems there is no truly clear concept of “Western cuisine” so this analysis is based on public knowledge and my personal findings.

是懂得了怎样用香料和调料。16 世纪英国的烹饪开始走下坡路，法国的烹饪艺术赶

The origin of Western cuisine dates back to the Ancient

上了英国。法王亨利二世娶了酷爱烹调艺术的意大利豪门闺秀凯瑟琳 · 美第奇，她随

Egypt. Pyramids hieroglyphs spoke of the bounty from the rich

身带去了许多著名的厨师，把意大利烹饪技艺也带到了法国，法国一流的烹饪已在

Nile River, which included vegetables, fruits, fish, and poultry. At that time, Egyptians had already developed sophisticated

整个世界闻名。法国的烹饪艺术包括完美的计划菜单、优越的自然条件、新鲜高级

skills to make bread and sugar. Their skills and recipes were

的原料、厨师的天才和艺术修养、完美的礼仪、精细而又营养均衡的美味佳肴，以

passed down and continue to play an important role in the

及具有较高欣赏能力和素养的美食者。近代欧美烹饪的发展，英国占有重要的一席。自从英国开始同印度与中国开始

restaurants today. Western cuisine also rose from the ancient Greek and Romans. Europe, it was the Greeks who were the first human

贸易活动，饮茶就成为英国人的一大饮食习惯。土豆首先在欧洲被普遍种植和食用，

civilization who appeared to develop cooking skills to lay the

面粉、咖啡、鲜肉广泛应用。许多大师不仅从法国、英国，还从意大利、西班牙、

foundation of Western cuisine today. Under the influence of

德国、俄罗斯吸收最新烹调方法来改善本国的烹饪。西餐烹饪的外延范围不断扩大，

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

the ancient Egyptian and ancient Greek cuisine, the Romans

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

learned from the early European culinary books and improved their cooking skills, and the status of Roman chefs was elevated during their time period. Western cuisine was said to have reached its luxurious prime during the Roman Empire. Romans may be considered the “Father of Western Cuisine”. The culture of Western Europe developed after the medieval period. In the beginning of the 6th century, Germanic built the strongest country – Frankish Kingdom in Western Europe at that time. In 843AD, the kingdom was divided into three countries by King Louis III’s three sons – they were France, Italy and Germany. In the 8th century, Charlemagne once demanded the

西餐那些事儿 ·西餐菜式的特点

monastery and church to supply for the pilgrims on their way to the holy place, they built canteen, bedroom, baking room, hotel and beer cellar – it is said that modern European hotels date back to those monasteries. Later, ancient Roman habits, customs and cooking skills were passed to the British. Some handwritten recipes of the 14th century show that British cuisine also learned a lot from French cuisine, for example, methods to use spices and sauces in cooking. The 16th century witnessed a decline in British cuisine as it was surpassed by French cuisine. It was all because Henry II, the King of France married Catherine de’ Medici, a member of the ruling family of Florence, who adored the art of cuisine and brought with her many famous chefs and Italian cooking skills. French cuisine soon became popular in the world. The art of French cuisine contained a detailed menu, tribute to the natural environment, luxurious ingredients, talented chefs and aesthetics. A very traditional, delicate and balanced diet was the core of French cuisine.

西方各国的餐饮文化有各自的特点，菜式也都不尽相同。西餐可分为法式、意式、英式、美式、俄式等不同风格。

The development of Western cuisine in Britain is also important. The British drank tea

法国菜是国际上公认的传统的、典型的、正宗的西餐代表，至今仍名列世界西

every day since they began to trade with India and China. Potatoes were first grown and eaten

菜之首。法国人的早餐通常是法式面包和热饮料，他们对午餐、晚餐比较重视，特

in Europe. Powder, coffee and various fresh cuts of meat were also widely used. Many aspiring chefs attempt to learn French and British cuisine, but also combine Italian, Spanish, German and Russian cuisine to create new dishes and build their repertoire. The influence of Western

别是晚餐，通常要吃好几道菜，用餐时间长，菜肴很考究。法国菜分为开胃菜、前菜、主菜、奶酪、甜点五大项，而主菜又分为海鲜类和肉类两组选择。高级的法国

cuisine gained a wider scope in the world. When Columbus discovered the Americas, Spanish,

餐厅都会提供特别的季节菜单，如“冬季套餐”“春季套餐”。法国人把酒当作饮料。

French, Dutch and British, colonists brought their food culture influences and expanded it into the

法式菜肴的特点是：选料广泛、用料新鲜、加工精细、烹调考究、装饰美观、品种

Americas. This was the beginning of distinctive American and Latin American cuisine. As politics, economies and culture developed and changed rapidly, so did Western cuisine. More importantly, as the procedure of production became more automated, cooking equipment

繁多。由于法国人偏爱生嫩食品，杀菌消毒助消化的调料用得较多，如生洋葱、蒜头、芥末酱、白醋、各种酒类等。法国菜常用食材有牛肉、羊肉、鹅肝、海鲜、鱼

also evolved. Healthy diet, balanced nutrition and qualified hygiene are the most important

子酱、田螺、蔬菜、松露。配料常使用大量的酒、牛油、鲜奶油及各种香料。法国

elements of contemporary culinary industry. Modern scientific techniques and the application of

料理三宝：松露、鹅肝酱、鱼子酱。法式名菜有：鹅肝酱、洋葱汤、蒜头烤羊腿、

nutritional knowledge are the essential signs of contemporary Western cuisine.

各式牛扒、法式红酒鸡、拿破仑千层酥、奶油焗蜗牛等。意大利人的早餐很简单，往往是一杯咖啡、一块夹火腿的面包。午餐是一天的主餐，以面食为主，晚餐通常八九点开始。面食多、花色丰富是意大利菜的突出特点，各种意大利面条、馄饨享誉世界。烹调方法以焖、烩、焗为主。调味品以盐、胡椒粉、番茄酱、橄榄油、红花粉为主，菜肴呈现原汁原味的特点。意大利盛产奶酪和香肠，意大利人忽视蔬菜，这与法国人不同。意式名菜有：米兰猪柳、意大利

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

调味饭、焗鱼、肉酱意粉、那不勒斯烤龙虾、佛罗伦萨烤牛扒、比萨、提拉米苏等。

西餐的上菜顺序

咖啡在意大利也非常流行，蒸汽咖啡和卡布奇诺是意大利人饭后与休息时的常用饮品。英国人的传统习惯是早晨起床后喝一杯浓红茶。早餐为典型的“英式早餐”或称作“皇式早餐”，主要有果汁、麦片粥或玉米片、各类鸡蛋带培根或火腿、面包、

七道式顺序：前菜

汤

沙拉

海鲜

肉类

甜品

咖啡或茶

甜品

咖啡或茶

咖啡或红茶等。午餐比较简单，往往是一个汤、一道菜、咸面包或吐司、咖啡等，有时吃些三明治等快餐。英国人在下午四五点钟有喝下午茶的习惯，同时要吃些蛋糕、三明治、饼干之类的点心。英国人对晚餐比较重视，有烧烤禽类、牛排等；也有海鲜、汤、冷盘、甜点。英国人讲究用餐的质量、讲究花色搭配，菜肴清淡少油、鲜嫩焦香，烹调中很少用酒、调味料，常用调味料一般放在餐桌上供客人选用。英

五道式顺序：汤

沙拉

主菜（包含肉类、海鲜类、饭面类）

式名菜有：爱尔兰烩羊肉、各式牛扒、西冷牛排、焗鱼蘑菇少司、烤羊鞍、布丁等。美国菜是在英国菜的基础上发展起来的。美国人的早餐结合英式早餐，再加上各种果汁、瓦夫饼、热饼、油炸水果、唐纳滋等。午餐以快餐、便餐为主，汉堡包由德国移民带入美国后成为典型的美国快餐食品。晚餐比较丰盛。美国人喜欢甜食，尤其爱吃冰淇淋；对沙拉感兴趣，沙拉原料大多采用水果、蔬菜；对西红柿尤为钟爱，经常夹在汉堡、热狗、三明治中，在吃面包、牛排、炸土豆条时，常伴以大量番茄沙司。美国菜咸中带甜，其特点是：水果广泛应用；“铁扒”类菜肴较普遍；各种沙拉制作讲究。美国人对辣味不感兴趣。常见美式名菜有：华尔道夫沙拉、苹果烤鸭、美式什锦铁扒、菠萝丁香焗火腿、华盛顿奶油汤等。传统俄国菜与英、美、法等国家的菜肴差别较大。俄国人一般对早餐和午餐较为重视，晚餐比较简单。早餐通常少不了一杯酸奶、烤面包或黑面包、各种蛋类配

The Characteristics of Western Cuisine Western cuisine has its own characteristics and different Western countries have their own distinctive dishes. They can be divided into the following categories: French, British, Italian, Russian, American and Mediterranean cuisine. French cuisine is one of the most classical and representative of Western cuisine. It also ranks as one of the top Western cuisines in the world. French breakfast is composed of a baguette and hot drinks. The French people take their lunch and dinner very seriously. During dinner, several dishes are served subsequently – they are bread, appetizer, main dish, cheese

火腿或香肠等，喜爱奶渣或奶渣饼，糖油煎饼和糖油吐司也爱吃，最后喝一杯咖啡

and dessert. The choices for main course is seafood, meat or vegetables. High-end French

或红茶。午餐一般要有冷小吃、各种红菜汤、主菜、甜点、茶或咖啡等。而晚餐比

restaurants tend to offer seasonal menus like “Winter Menu” or “Spring Menu”. The French love

较简单，一般不喝汤，仅有一个冷盘或一道主菜，甚至吃些土豆配酸包菜或酸黄瓜等，外加一点发面点心或其他干点心、一杯红茶即可。绝大多数俄国人爱喝烈性酒，

to have wine and spirits with their meals. France is also one of the largest wine producing regions in the world. The characteristics of French cuisine are their various ingredients in their fresh and local food. The French eat raw vegetables, especially salad with vinaigrette made of onion, garlic,

如伏特加、白兰地等。俄国菜偏咸、辣、甜，口味重，油腻，烹饪时大都用酸奶油、

mustard or white vinegar. This can kill unhealthy microbes and help stomach digestion. Common

奶渣、酸黄瓜、白醋、辣椒、黄油、小茴香、香叶、黑椒籽等作调味料。常用烹调

ingredients used in French cuisine include steak, veal, seafood, poultry, lamb, caviar, vegetable,

方法是烩、焖、炸、烤、煎、炒等。俄式传统名菜有：黄油鸡卷、罗宋汤、莫斯科红汤、俄式冷盘、高加索羊肉串、莫斯科蔬菜沙拉等。

truffle, escargot and goose liver. The accompanying sauces are usually made with wine, butter, fresh cream and other spices. The top three popular dishes in France are truffle, goose liver paste and caviar. Other French dishes include goose liver sauce, onion soup, roasted gigot, steaks, French fowl with red wine, millefeuille, escargot with cream and many more. An Italian breakfast is very simple, a cup of coffee and bread with ham starts of a fresh day.

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

breakfast, Americans like to have all kinds of juices, waffle, pancake, dried fruit and donuts. Lunch

THE CHARACTERISTICS OF WESTERN CUISINE

is usually composed of fast food. Hamburger was first brought to America by German immigrants, and it soon became one of the most popular food in America. Dinner is quite satisfactory. Compared with British, Americans prefer desserts, especially ice-cream. They also like salad very much, which is usually made of different fruits and vegetables. Americans also like tomatoes. They usually used sliced tomato in hamburger, hot dog, sandwich, bread, steak and French fries as ketchup. The characteristic of American cuisine is slightly salty with a little sweet. Fruit is widely used in dishes. Meat is usually served on a hot iron plate with a variety of salads. They do not show too much interest in spicy food. Popular dishes include waldorf salad, roasted wild duck with apple, American mixed steak, broiled ham with pineapple and clove and Washington cream soup. Traditional Russian cuisine is quite different from British, American and French cuisine. Russians believe breakfast and lunch more important than dinner. For breakfast, they usually have yogurt, toast, eggs with ham or sausage. For dessert, they like curd cake, pancakes with syrup and French toast. For beverages, they like a cup of coffee or black tea. Lunch includes cold dishes, soup, desserts and drinks. Dinner is very simple with only one cold dish or main course. Sometimes, they will have potatoes with pickled cabbage or pickled cucumber, bread,

Lunch is the main meal, in which they will have different kinds of pasta dishes. Dinner usually starts at eight or nine in the evening. Italian cuisine is famous for the art of pasta like spaghetti and ravioli. The cooking techniques mainly used in the Italian kitchen include braise, bake and roast. Their flavor profile includes salt, pepper, tomato sauce, olive oil and carthamus powder. Italians like to preserve the original flavor of food. They prefer cheese and sausage to vegetable. Popular Italian dishes are like Milan style fried pork fillet, Italian rice, grilled fish, rigatoni, Naples broiled

refreshments and a cup of black tea. Most Russians prefer spirits like vodka and brandy. The characteristic flavor of Russian cuisine is salty, spicy, oily and a bit sweet. They like to use sour cream, milk, pickled cucumbers, white vinegar, chili, butter, fennel, black pepper seed and other spices as well. Cooking techniques are simmer, braise, fry, roast, grill and pan-sear. Traditional Russian dishes are butter chicken roll, borsch, Moscow red soup, Russian style cold dishes, Caucasian lamb kebab and Moscow vegetable salad.

lobster, Florence steak, pizza, and tiramisu. Coffee is very prevalent in Italy, steamed coffee and cappuccino are their most popular drinks after meals. A British morning begins with a cup of intense black tea. They might also have “British breakfast” or “Royal breakfast”, which has juice, oatmeal, cereal, eggs with bacon, sausages, bread, and coffee for example. Lunch is served with soup, a main dish, salted bread or toast and coffee. They will sometimes have fast food like sandwiches. The British also enjoy a practice called “High Tea”, where tea is served alongside refreshments like cakes, sandwiches and biscuits at four or five in the afternoon. Dinner is a highly regarded meal for the British. Roasted fowl, steak, seafood, soup, cold dishes and dessert are served on the table. British people pay

The Order of Serving Western Cuisine Seven courses： appetizer

soup

salad

seafood

meat

dessert

particular attention to the quality of their meals – the balance of nutrition, they use less oil to

coffee or tea

preserve the foods original flavor, and seek a crispy outside and tender inside for meats. They seldom add wine or sauce in dishes when cooking; instead, they offer different flavoring on the

Five courses：

table to let people choose according to their own preference. Famous British dishes include Irish braised lamb, steaks, beef sirloin, grilled fish with mushroom sauce, roasted lamb chop and pudding.

soup

salad

main dish （meat, seafood or rice）

dessert

coffee or tea

The development of American cuisine is based on British cuisine. Similar to the British

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

西餐那些事儿 ·西餐礼仪

进餐时，左手持叉，右手拿刀；切东西时左手拿叉按住食物，右手拿刀将其切成小块，用叉子将食物送入口中。一般说来，欧洲人使用刀、叉时不换手，一直用左手持叉将食物送入口内；美国人则是切好后，把刀放下，右手持叉将食物送入口中。使用刀时，刀刃不可向外。进餐中放下刀、叉时应分别放在餐盘两边，摆成 “八”字形。刀刃朝向自身，表示还要继续吃。每吃完一道菜，将刀、叉并拢放在盘中。如果是谈话，可以拿着刀、叉，不需要放下。不用刀时，可用右手持叉，但若需要做手势时，就应放下刀、叉，千万不可手执刀、叉在空中挥舞摇晃；也不要一手拿刀或叉，而另一只手拿餐巾擦嘴；也不可一手拿酒杯，另一只手拿叉取菜。吃西餐时，要保持安静，谈话时声音尽量小声，一举一动都不要影响其他客人。餐具不要发出声音，喝汤时也尽量不发出声音，吃东西要闭嘴咀嚼。喝汤时，汤勺从里向外舀，汤盘中的汤快喝完时，用左手将汤盘的外侧稍稍翘起，用汤勺舀净即

走进餐厅，侍者先引领客人入座，然后送上菜单。至于如何点菜，菜单上通常

可。吃完汤菜时，将汤匙留在汤盘（碗）中，汤匙把儿指向自己。吃鱼、肉等带刺

有推荐的套餐或招牌菜，有的甚至是以店名命名的，可以根据自己的喜好选择。通

或骨的菜肴时，可用餐巾捂嘴轻轻吐在叉上放入盘内。如果盘内只剩少量菜肴时，

常午餐和晚餐的菜式会有所不同，午餐简单一些。餐厅会根据季节的变化随时更换

应以小块面包或叉子相助食用。吃意大利面时要用叉子先将面条卷起，然后送入口

菜单。

中。面包抹黄油和果酱时先将面包掰成小块再抹，不要拿着整块面包送入口中。吃

餐厅通常会播放和餐厅风格相配的音乐，如蓝调、乡村音乐、怀旧的歌曲等，音乐声音很小，让人身心放松，尽享美食与音乐。

面包可蘸调味汁吃到连调味汁都不剩，这是对厨师的尊敬。凡是吃带骨头的主菜时，应先将骨去掉，不要用手拿着吃。吃鱼时要吃完上面的之后，用刀、叉将鱼骨去掉，

西餐礼仪起源于法国梅罗文加王朝，到了罗马帝国的查里曼大帝时，礼仪更为

再吃下面的。吃肉时，切一块吃一块，或一次将肉都切成块，肉不能切得过大。喝

复杂而专制。在 17 世纪以前，传统习惯是戴着帽子进餐，餐桌礼仪显得烦琐与严

咖啡时若添加奶或糖，需用专用小勺搅拌均匀，将小勺放在咖啡的垫碟上。喝时右

苛。时至今日，这些餐桌礼仪在欧洲国家保留了下来。男士需穿西装、衬衣、打领

手拿杯把儿，左手端垫碟，直接用嘴喝。吃水果时，应先用水果刀将水果切小块，

带或系领结、穿皮鞋；女士着正装或礼服。当你就坐时，最得体的入座方式是从左

再用刀去掉皮、核，用叉子叉着吃。

侧入座，椅子被拉开后，身体在几乎碰到桌子的地方站直，腿弯碰到后面的椅子时，就可以坐下来了。用餐时，身体坐端正，双腿平放，腹部和桌子保持约一个拳头的

餐厅的环境雅致、气氛和谐，餐具、餐桌干净整洁。柔和的灯光，淡淡的音乐，优雅的礼仪，美味的食物，让你融入了浪漫、安静的氛围。

距离，以便于使用餐具为佳。餐巾的正确使用方法：通常在点餐后才将餐巾打开，先对折，然后开口朝外置

The Manner of Western Cuisine

于膝上。餐巾除了防止调味汁滴落，弄脏衣服以外，还可以用来擦嘴、手，也可以在吐出鱼骨或水果核时拿来遮住嘴巴。擦嘴时，先用餐巾的末端顺着嘴唇轻轻擦拭，弄脏的部分往内侧卷起。用餐完毕或吃完甜点后，先将腿上的餐巾拿起，随意叠好，放在餐桌的左侧，然后起身离座。若有主宾或长辈在座，一定要等他们拿起餐巾折叠时才能整理自己的餐巾。若中途暂时离开，可用盘子压住餐巾的一角，让餐巾从餐桌上垂下一角，而且脏的一面朝内侧比较雅观。

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

After the waiter guides you to your table, the first thing that is placed in front of you is the menu. The menu is the first manifestation of a restaurant. Usually, there will be some recommended set dishes or specialties on the menu, some dishes are named after the restaurant’s name. You can choose according to your own preference. Compared with dinner, lunch is usually simpler. The menu might also be changed seasonally. Some restaurants will play music according to the atmosphere of the restaurant like blues,

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

THE MANNER OF WESTERN CUISINE

their mouth. While the Americans are used to cutting the meat into pieces, and then putting the knife down and using their right hand to hold the fork to eat. When using the knife, we should avoid facing the blade outside. If you want to put down your fork and knife, you should place them on each side of your plate and make them lean a little bit toward your plate. If the blade faces you, it means you just have a pause and will continue eating. When you finish each dish, put the fork and knife together on your plate. While talking, you can hold your fork and knife and do not need to put them down. If you do not want to use the knife, you can put it down and use your right hand to hold the fork. However, if you need to make a gesture, put it down. Never wave your fork and knife or hold them while you are wiping your mouth or holding a glass of wine. While having Western cuisine, you need to keep quiet; if you want to talk, you should lower your voice, and try not to disturb other people in the restaurant. When eating, do not make loud noises with your fork and knife. Try to close your mouth when eating, do not smack your lips when drinking soup or chewing food. When drinking soup, use a spoon to scoop soup from the inside

folk songs or nostalgic songs. Their volume will not be too high, so you can enjoy your meal with the music in the background. The manner of Western cuisine originates from the Merovingian Dynasty. It became much more complicated and dictatorial after it was passed down to the Frankish Kingdom. Before the 17th century, people would wear a hat to have dinner and the manner was very strict and intricate. Today some mannerisms have been forgotten while some are still being used in some European countries during meals. For example, gentlemen must wear formal suits with shirts, ties or bows inside, and formal shoes; ladies must wear a dress or evening gown. Before you sit down, you must pull out the chair, move to your seat from the left side, bend down and when you can almost touch the chair, you may be seated. During meals, you should sit up straight with your kneels on the same level; the distance between your stomach and the table should be about one fist, which is ideal to use a folk and a knife. After you place your order, you should open your napkin, fold it and put it over your knees. The napkin is used to protect your clothes from juice or sauce; as well as using it to wipe your mouth, hands and figures, you can also use it to cover your mouth when you want to spit out fish bone or fruit seed. When wiping your mouth, you should use one side of the napkin and gently tap it around your mouth, and then roll up the dirty part. When you finish your meal, you can pick up

to the outside. When the soup is almost finished, you can tilt the plate with your left hand and use your spoon to finish the rest. After finishing the soup, leave the spoon on the plate with the handle facing towards yourself. When you are eating fish or steak with bones, do not spit it out directly, try to use a napkin to cover your mouth, or you can spit them on the fork first, and then put them beside the plate. If there is only a little food left on the plate, use a piece of bread and your fork to take it out gently. When eating spaghetti, roll it with your fork and then eat it. Do not bite the bread directly, tear it into pieces and add some butter or jam. When the chef knows you have finished every dish, he will feel respected and satisfied. If your dish has bones, try to take out the bone first, do not eat it with your hand. When eating fish, you should pick out the bone with your knife and fork after you finish one side. When eating meat, cut one slice after you finish one, do not cut it too large or cut it all at once. When drinking coffee, use a spoon to add and stir milk or sugar; when you are finished, put the spoon on the coffee plate, hold the cup with your right hand and the plate with your left hand and sip gently. When eating fruit, do not bite the whole fruit, pick out and discard its skin and kernel, cut it into slices and use a fork to eat. The environment of having Western cuisine is elegant and harmonious. The table and tableware are tidy and clean. The light is soft, the music is delightful, the manner is elegant and the food is delicious. You are surrounded by a romantic and gentle atmosphere.

the napkin, put it on the left side of the table and leave. If there are elder people or guests sitting beside you, you should wait until they take away the napkin first. You should try not to leave the table in the middle of a meal, if you have to, you can put one corner of your napkin under the plate and keep the dirty part inside. When you are dining, you should hold the fork in your left hand and the knife in your right hand. When eating meat, use the fork to stabilize and the knife to cut the meat, and then use the fork again to pick up the sliced meat. Usually, Europeans will not change the fork and knife from one hand to the other, they will keep using their left hand to hold the fork and place the food into

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

目

录

C O N T E N T S

加拿大多伦多篇

Toronto

多伦多，我来了！ Toronto, Here I Come! 传奇历史，卡门牛扒房 / 4 The Legend of Carmen’s Steak House

加拿大乔治 · 布朗学院厨师餐厅 / 36 George Brown College The Chefs’House

老卡门故事的延续 / 5

亲切的厨师长李先生 / 37

The Continuance of Old Carmen’s Story

大厨哥哥 / 7 Brother Chef

Friendly Chef Li

意式土豆馅饺子配番茄汁 / 40

Potato Stuffed Ravioli with Homemade Tomato Sauce

法式鞑靼牛肉 / 11

香煎罗非鱼配扁豆、蔬菜混合酱汁 / 43

海盐、茉莉花、香煎扇贝 / 12

红烧排骨配韩式炒饭 / 45

味噌鳕鱼 / 14

香草酸奶意式奶冻配蓝莓酱和杏仁饼 / 47

French Style Beef Tartare

Seared Sea Scallop with Jasmine Cream Miso Sea Bass with Risotto

纽约客牛排 / 17 New York Style Steak

熔岩蛋糕 / 19

Chocolate Lava Cake

完美的意大利厨房和酒吧 / 20 Scaddabush Italian Kitchen & Bar

牛油果、奶酪、面包塔塔 / 24 Avocado Tartare with Cheese Bread

马苏里拉奶酪 / 26

Fresh Mozzarella Cheese

龙虾意大利面 / 29 Lobster Spaghetti

屠夫比萨 / 30 Butcher Pizza

多伦多圣劳伦斯市场 / 32

Pan-seared Tilapia, Green Lentils and Root Vegetable Ragout Braised Spareribs and Korean Style Fried Rice Vanilla Yogurt Panna Cotta with Blueberry Compote and Almond Cookies

安薇塔英国茶屋 / 48

Annvita English Tea Room

东方佳人茶 / 51 Pink Beauty Tea

红宝石茶 / 51 Pomegranate Tea

味噌牛肉 / 52 Miso Beef Taco

牛油果迷你塔丁 / 52 Avocado on Mini Baguette

黄瓜三明治 / 53 Mini Cucumber Sandwich 香酥鸡 / 53 Crispy Chicken on Toast

Top of the World – St Lawrence Market

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

美国纽约篇

New York

繁华的纽约，美食的盛宴 Prosperous New York, Fabulous Feast

甜点套餐 / 96

黄油和餐前面包 / 65 Bread and Butter

鸡蛋鱼子酱 / 65

Egg Caviar

蛋黄吐司和鱼子酱配莳萝 / 66 Toasted Egg Yolk, Caviar and Herbs

蘑菇、野菜沙拉配香草松子酱 / 67 Market Mushroom Salad with Wild Greens and Herbal Pine Nut Dressing

香煎扇贝配焦糖花椰菜和酸豆葡萄干酱 / 67

Diver Scallops, Caramelized Cauliﬂower, Caper-raisin Emulsion

金枪鱼丝配牛油果 / 68

Yellowﬁn Tuna Ribbons, Avocado and Spicy Radish, Ginger Marinade

真鲷鱼生鱼片配法式面包 / 68

Madai Sashimi, Warm Trufﬂe Toast and Chive

烤黑海鲈鱼配坚果、甜酸汁 / 69

Black Sea Bass Crusted with Nuts and Seeds, Sweet and Sour Juice /

米其林三星餐厅 —— 本质 / 70

Michelin Three-Star Restaurant – Per Se

三文鱼塔塔蛋卷 / 72 Salmon Cornet

面包 / 72 Breads

Oysters & Pearls

夏威夷之心桃子沙拉 / 73

Hawaiian Hearts of Peach Palm and Panna Cotta

水煮哈德森鸭肝 / 74

Hudson Valley Moulard Duck Foie Gras

炭烤太平洋鲜鲍配天使意大利面 / 74 Hawaiian Hearts of Peach Palm and Panna Cotta

低温慢煮羊柳配小茴香根橄榄酱 / 75 Elysian Fields Farm’s Lamb Rib-eye with Persillade 萨蒙农场的猪脸肉 / 75 Samoens Farm Pork Jowl

地中海式香煎海鲈鱼 / 76

Sautéed Fillet of Mediterranean Lubina

黑椒羊奶塔 / 76

Tomme of Aydius Goat

柑橘果香奶酪冻 / 77

Citrusy Goat Cheese Panna Cotta

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

纽约第一汉堡奶昔小站 / 97

一风堂叉烧角包 / 101

日式拉面博多一风堂 / 99

博多拉面 / 101

Ippudo Ramen

一风堂沙拉 / 100

Hirata Buns

Hakata Ramen

高桥深夜拉面 / 102

Shoyu Dressing

Takashi Ramen

松露巧克力配香草冰淇淋 / 77

Black Trufﬂe Chocolate with Vanilla Ice Cream

热情果果酱配巧克力蛋糕 / 78

法国巴黎篇

巧克力 / 78

浪漫的巴黎，舌尖上的诱惑 Romantic Paris, Enticement on Tongue

Passion Fruit Puree Dark Chocolate Cake Chocolate

米其林一星 —— 彼得 · 卢格牛排馆 / 80

Paris

Michelin One-Star Restaurant – Peter Luger Steak House

纽约圣安赛姆牛排馆 / 83

法国蓝带厨艺学院 / 110 Le Cordon Bleu International

腌制生蚝 / 131 Marinated Oysters

纽约联合广场的绿色集市 / 85

甜品中的“爱马仕”—— 皮尔 · 艾尔梅 / 112

盐烤有机蔬菜 / 131

纽约不可不逛的美食汇 —— 切尔西市场 / 88

米其林一星餐厅 ——114 法布尔 / 115 Michelin One-Star Restaurant – 114 Faubourg

青芦笋配炭灰、奶酪 / 132

New York Top Ten Steak House – St．Anselm Union Square Greenmarket

Must-go Place in New York – Chelsea Market

Hermé in Dessert – Pierre Hermé

Vegetables Cooked in the Salt Crust

Asparagus with Charcoal Cheese

墨西哥玉米卷 / 90 Los Tacos No.1

法式面包配黄油 / 117

布列塔尼龙虾配洋蓟 / 132

龙虾卷 / 90

阿拉斯加帝王蟹、柠檬籽沙拉 / 117

黑松露鸡胸 / 133

香料 / 91

奶油酱芦笋、熏鱼 / 118

餐后奶酪 / 133

Lobster Roll

Spices

意大利冰淇淋 / 91

生蚝与珍珠 / 73

Shishito

The Best Hamburger in New York – Shake Shack

米其林三星餐厅 —— 让－乔治 / 62

Michelin Three-Star Restaurant – Jean-Georges

狮子唐辛子 / 100

Choice of Desserts

Gelato

美食广场 / 91 Food Plaza

Baguette with Butter

King Crab Egg, Ginger and Lemon Mayonnaise

Green Asparagus and Smoke Cream with Haddock, Fresh Herb and Lemon

烤梭鲈鱼配茴香、洋葱、红酒酱汁 / 118

Roasted Pike Perch, Onion and Fennel Compote with Cumin, Red Wine Reduction

法式鹅肝配珍珠鸡、小扁豆 / 119

Brittany Lobster with Artichoke

Black Trufﬂe Poultry with Celery Root Selection of Cheese

巧克力甜品 / 134

Chocolate Soufﬂé with Ice Cream

水果雪葩 / 134 Fruit Sorbets

Japanese ChikaLicious Dessert Bar

Farm Roasted Guinea Fowl with Goose Liver, Stew of Lentils du Puy

造型巧克力店 —— 乔治 · 拉尼科尔 / 136

茉莉花雪葩和蜜糖奶油 / 94

法式千层酥配香草冰淇淋 / 119

法国葡萄酒 / 138

日本奇卡美味甜品店 / 92

Jasmine Sorbet with Muscovado Cream

伯爵茶奶冻配柠檬雪葩及霜冻开心果 / 94 Earl Gray Panna Cotta with Meyer Lemon Sorbet and Frosted Pistachio

鞑靼奶油柿子 / 95

Persimmon Tartare on Fresh Cream and Kataiﬁ with Almond Ice Cream

奶酪蛋糕 / 95 Cheese Cake

Vanilla Bourbon Millefeuille, Salted Butter Caramel

法国巴士底露天集市 / 120

The Bastille Market – Marché de la Bastille

巴黎的咖啡文化 —— 双叟咖啡和花神咖啡 / 124 The Culture of Coffee in Paris – Les Deux Magots and Café de Flore

米其林三星 —— 莫里斯餐厅 / 128 King’s Hotel Michelin Three-Star Restaurant – Le Meurice

Chocolate Store – Maison Georges Larnicol French Wines

法国百年金蜗牛餐厅 / 141 Snail Restaurant – L’Escargot Montorgueil 现开 3 号布列塔尼生蚝 / 143 Fresh Bretagne No.3 Oysters 法式蜗牛 / 143 Snails with Parsley

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

法式橙味鸭 / 144

Ducks of Challans with Orange Sauce

橙香火焰可丽饼 / 145 Crêpe Suzette

海胆蛋羹 / 153

Scrambled Eggs and Sea Urchin, Gratinated with Champagne

法式鹅肝 / 153

巴黎著名的拉杜丽甜品店 / 146 Brunch at Ladurée

百年老店和平咖啡馆 / 150 Café de la Paix

法棍 / 152 French Baguette

Le Foie Gras of Café de la Paix

香煎小牛肉 / 154 Roast Marinated Veal

低温炖猪里脊肉 / 154 Sous-vide Pork from Oteiza 炖羊肉配松露、玉米饼 / 155

Aldudes Lamb with Trufﬂed Polenta and Comté

法式洋葱汤 / 152

Pan-seared Sea Bass with Gazpacho

香煎扇贝 / 201

Roasted Scallops with Spices

香煎三文鱼配热情果、芒果汁 / 203 Seared Salmon Fillet, Mango Passion Fruit Coulis with Dark Juice

罗西尼牛里脊肉配洋葱馅饼、浓缩果汁 / 205

Shenzhen Blue Italian Seafood & Grill Restaurant of the Venice Raytour Hotel

热情的意大利主厨安东尼诺 · 斯科多 / 161 Friendly Italian Chef Antonino Scordo

鲜虾、蘑菇塔塔配双色鱼子酱 / 165 Seafood Mushroom Tartare with Caviar

帕尔玛火腿配水牛奶酪 / 167

Prosciutto di Parma with Buffalo Mozzarella

意大利牛肝菌饺子配牛肝菌番茄汁 / 169 Porcini Ravioli with Tomato Sauce

杏仁冻糕 / 171 Almond Panna Cotta

西西里奶油卷 / 172 Sicily Cream Roll

深圳华侨城洲际酒店的法国餐厅 / 174

Intercontinental Hotel Shenzhen – Pipette Restaurant

西餐主厨许玮 / 175 Chinese Chef Wei Xu

美味沙拉 / 177

Gourmet Salad

蘑菇奶油汤 / 178 Mushroom Veloute

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

香煎澳洲 M5 级和牛牛柳配辣根泥、酸萝卜、酸蘑菇汁 / 180

M5 Wagyu Beef Tenderloin with Horseradish, Pickled Radish, Sour Mushroom Sauce

金万利力娇甜酒舒芙蕾配香草汁、橙味雪葩 / 182

意式蘑菇汤 / 213

Italian Style Mushroom Soup

焗肉酱意大利面 / 215

巧克力布朗尼 / 206

香煎海鲈鱼 / 216

Chocolate Brownie

Pan-seared Sea Bass

提拉米苏 / 219

Tiramisu

Western Cuisine at Home

春季田园沙拉配蓝纹奶酪汁 / 224

脆皮烤鸡 / 235

菠菜、蘑菇沙拉配有机山羊奶酪 / 225 Spinach Mushroom Salad with Feta Cheese

美式烧烤猪排骨 / 236 American Style Barbecued Pork Ribs

恺撒沙拉 / 226 Caesar Salad

香煎牛柳 / 237 Seared Beef Sirloin

Garden Salad with Blue Cheese Dressing

深圳威尼斯睿途酒店的意大利餐厅 / 160

Chef Hua Huang

Baked Spaghetti

家庭西餐篇

美丽的深圳，我的家 Lovely Shenzhen, My Hometown

Great China Sheraton Hotel, Mezzo Italian Restaurant

Beef Tenderloin Rossine Style, Onion Tartlet, Juice Reduction

Egg White Icing Lemon Tartlet

Shenzhen

深圳大中华喜来登酒店的意大利餐厅 / 210

主厨黄华 / 211

蛋白霜柠檬挞 / 209

French Onion Soup

中国深圳篇

西班牙凉菜汤配香煎鳕鱼 / 199

华尔道夫沙拉 / 227

Crispy Roasted Chicken

辣椒牛肉比萨 / 238

Waldorf Salad

Chili Beef Pizza

深圳益田威斯汀酒店扒房 / 184 Grange Grill Westin Hotel Shenzhen

奶油洋菇浓汤 / 228 Creamy Mushroom Soup

南瓜面（两人份） / 239

行政总厨保罗 · 多德 / 185

西蓝花汤 / 229

番茄培根面 / 240

法式奶油蘑菇汤 / 186

杏仁炒刀豆 / 230

牛排三明治 / 241

日式霜烧三文鱼 / 189

香煎三文鱼配红酒黄油汁烤橙味防风根 / 231

魔鬼蛋 / 242

Grand Marnier Soufﬂé with Vanilla Sauce, Orange Sherbet

Executive Chef Paul Dodd Mushroom Soup Salmon Tataki

香煎澳洲安格斯牛柳 / 190

Australian Angus Tenderloin

烟熏冰淇淋 / 193 Smoked Ice Cream

意法星厨六重奏 / 194 Top Chefs’Sextet 蟹肉塔塔配鱼子酱、小蛋酥、芥末酱 / 197

Crab Tartare and Caviar, Mini Meringues, Light Wasabi Sauce

Broccoli Soup

Green Beans Fried Almond

Pan-seared Salmon with Orange Parsnip, Red Wine and Butter Sauce

香煎扇贝配烤茄子、荷兰汁 / 232 Pan-fried Scallop with Barbecued Eggplant and Hollandaise Sauce

白葡萄酒煮贻贝 / 233

Pumpkin Rigatoni For Two

Tomato Bacon Spaghetti Steak Sandwich Deviled Eggs

迷你水果塔 / 243 Fruit Tartlets

寻找食物的灵魂 / 244

In Pursuit of the Soul of Food

White Wine Steamed Mussels

香煎羊排配时令蔬菜 / 234

Seared Lamb Rack with Seasonal Vegetables

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

Toronto 加

拿

大

多

伦

多

篇

多伦多，我来了！ Toronto, Here I Come!

加拿大多伦多篇

多伦多的秋天很美。山野、湖边、城市、花园，秋风染红了枫叶覆盖着大地，红、黄、橘红、金、绿五颜六色融合在一起，层层叠叠，错落有致，组成了一幅绚烂多彩的油画。渐浓的秋意充满着多伦多城市的各个角落。枫叶随风飘落，像一叶小舟，带着我的美食梦飘向了远方 …… 加拿大地大物博，物产丰富，从山珍到海味，从湖鲜到海鲜，应有尽有，如著名的温哥华蟹、大西洋龙虾、各类新鲜农产品（肉类、谷物、奶制品等）。来自各国的移民带来了家乡的调料和烹饪手艺，为多伦多创造了多样化的菜肴，让人垂涎欲滴，一饱口福。我带着自己的美食梦，行走在多伦多的街市，找寻那些不熟悉的味道，开始了我的西餐美食之旅。在多伦多，我采访了有 60 多年历史的著名卡门牛扒房（Carmen’s Steak House）；完美的意大利厨房和酒吧（Scaddabush Italian Kitchen ＆ Bar）；北美著名的乔治 · 布朗学院厨师餐厅（George Brown College The Chefs' House）；具有梦幻色彩的安薇塔英国茶屋（Annvita Tea Room）；著名的多伦多圣劳伦斯市场（St Lawrence Market）。带上你的好胃口，跟我来吧！

Autumn in Toronto is beautiful – the landscape, the lake, the cities, gardens and the red ground covered by maple leaves – red, yellow, orange, gold, green, and different colors combine harmoniously together. The maple leaves lay above one another in a picturesque order and create a splendid oil painting. You can see autumn in every corner of Toronto. Maple leaves that fall are like little boats and take my gourmet dream far away… Canada is an affluent and productive land with all kinds of delicate and fresh foods, for example, the famous Vancouver crab, Atlantic lobster and other fresh farm products (fowl, cereal and dairy). Immigrants from all over the world bring their homemade spices and cooking skills here. Toronto is a cosmopolitan city with a diverse gourmet food scene, your mouth cannot stop watering and you will be very satisfied with the variety of food. Carrying my gourmet dream, I walked down the streets of Toronto, in search of these unique flavors. This was the beginning of my Western gourmet journey. I paid a visit to the famous Carmen’s Steak House with over 60 years’ of history, Scaddabush Italian Kitchen & Bar, George Brown College The Chefs’ House, the fancy Annvita Tea Room and the famous St Lawrence Market. Bring your appetite and come with me!

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

小

眼

睛

看

美

食

│西餐篇│

加拿大多伦多篇

2015 年 10 月 24 日 / October 24, 2015

The Legend of Carmen’s Steak House

government. Through the historic door, you walk into a narrow corridor with gentle lights and

传奇历史，卡门牛扒房

photos of stars and celebrities on both sides of the wall – these are the legends of Carmen’s Steak House. Through the door on the left and you can see the quiet and luxuriant dining space and at the end of the corridor is the classic main dining hall. Climbing the stairs to the second flour, you can see a spacious party room and a few private rooms. The old Swarovski crystal chandelier, the colorful church window glass with celebrities’ names on it, the tall fireplace, ancient wooden chairs, antiques, frescos and decorations reflect mysterious color under the soft light – everything has witnessed the past and the legend of old Carmen’s Steak House.

老卡门故事的延续出于好奇，我静静等待着餐厅店主的出现。不一会儿，一位叔叔向我走来，他中等身材，戴着眼镜，用流利的中文热情地和我打招呼。原来，这位就是卡门牛扒房的店主黄家祥（Jason），福建人，已移民到加拿大八年时间了。

传奇历史，卡门牛扒房

据他介绍，卡门牛扒房最早的店主老卡门（Athanasios Karamanos）在多伦多是一个充满传奇色彩的人物。1950 年，老卡门从希腊非法移民来到加拿大，为饭店打工，耗时 10 年才获得合法身份。他最大的成就就是在 1959 年开了这家名为“卡门俱乐部”

如约走进了多伦多卡门牛扒房（Carmen’s Steak House），它是我在多伦多采访的第一家餐厅。卡门牛扒房所在的这栋楼已有 60 多年的历史了，被多伦多政府列为文物保护。推开那扇充满故事的大门，只见柔和的灯光下，狭长的走廊两边挂满了名人的照片，记录了经营者 60 多年的传奇历史。穿过左侧的一扇门，就到了典雅的前餐厅，走廊的尽头是古典的主餐厅，顺着楼梯走到二楼，可见宽阔的可供聚会的餐吧，还有几间贵宾餐房。年代久远的施华洛世奇大吊灯，曾在教堂见过的色彩斑斓的有名人签名的玻璃窗，高大的壁炉，古式木椅，随处可见的古董、壁画、饰品，在温暖的灯光下折射出神秘的色彩，见证着卡门牛扒房古老的历史和传奇的故事。

的牛扒店，一家 20 世纪多伦多政商云集、名流络绎的顶级扒房。由于坐落在闹市里的住宅区 , 市政府不发放公共酒牌，一直以私人会所的形式经营。老卡门收藏了很多图书和文物，还有艺术品，如锡盘、绘画作品等。黄家祥叔叔大学期间为了赚生活费，曾在 1999 年时在老卡门做过一段时间的帮厨（洗盘子）。他非常努力地工作，并受到老卡门对高端餐饮管理的熏陶。辞职的时候，老卡门依依不舍地挽留说：“这里的大门永远为你开着，任何时候都欢迎你回来。”他记在了心里。后来，老卡门年龄越来越大，却没有子女可以继承这家餐厅，在 2009 年 11 月店庆 50 周年的时候关闭了餐厅，在当时成为一大新闻，很多人为之惋惜。

The Legend of Carmen’s Steak House Carmen’s Steak House is the first restaurant that I visited in Toronto. The building has a history of over 60 years and is listed among protected cultural heritages by the Toronto

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

2011 年的一天，黄家祥叔叔带着自己的朋友去他曾经打工的地方吃饭，没想到这家餐厅正在出售，他大费周折，买下了这家餐厅，并耗费两年时间精心设计与改造，克服了很多困难，餐厅终于在 2014 年 11 月重新开业了。

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

小

眼

睛

看

美

食

│西餐篇│

加拿大多伦多篇

他在讲这段故事的时候，眼睛里闪耀着光芒。他觉得自己有一种使命感，也许是老卡门的召唤，冥冥之中把这家餐厅交给了自己。他在这之前没有开过餐厅，因此在餐厅名字的注册和餐厅的经营、运作等很多方面都遇到了困难。如今，餐厅已被很多老卡门的顾客和新的用餐者所熟知，餐厅的经营已经有了起色。他创造了一个中国人经营着一家古董西餐厅的奇迹，并正在续写着老卡门的历史和故事。

The Continuance of Old Carmen’s Story Out of curiosity, I waited quietly for the arrival of the owner. A middle-aged man came to me, he was of medium height and wearing a pair of glasses. He greeted me with fluent Chinese. This is the owner of Carmen’s House, Jiaxiang Huang (Jason), who came from Fujian Province of China and has been in Canada for eight years. And this is where his story begins. The first owner of Carmen’s, Athanasios Karamanos (the old Carmen), was a legendary person in Toronto. He emigrated from Greece to Canada in 1950, and washed dishes for restaurants ever since. He took ten years to get an official Canadian civilian certificate. His

大厨哥哥

greatest achievement was to found the Carmen’s Steak House in 1959, which was the preferred steak house in the last century for politicians, businessmen and celebrities gathering together. Because it was located near the residential area, the government did not issue them the public alcohol license. Therefore, Carmen’s was always run as a private club. Old Carmen collected a lot of books, cultural antiques and artistic masterpieces like tin plates and paintings. Jason started at Carmen’s washing dishes in order to earn a living when he was a university student in 1999. He worked very hard and learned a lot from old Carmen’s management of highend catering service. When Jason resigned, old Carmen was very unwilling to let him go and said, “That the door of Carmen’s would always be open to him and he was welcomed back at any

这样一家古老的牛扒房，一定会有优秀的主厨及精美的菜肴。事实的确是这样，很快，一位年轻、身材略显单薄且颜值很高的华人主厨站在我的面前，互相自我介绍后，我们来了个大大的拥抱。刘奇量（Forrest Liu），24 岁，上海人。他从小喜欢做手工，喜欢在厨房里跟着父母学做菜，16 岁入读上海烹饪学校。上学期间，他先到潮州菜馆打工，了解广东

time.” Jason was touched by his words and would always remember them. As old Carmen grew

菜的特点，用新鲜的食材烹制中国美食，这对他后来烹制西餐有很大的影响。后来，

older, he did not have any offspring to take over this restaurant, so he closed Carmen’s during its

他去了米其林三星大厨让－乔治（Jean-Georges）在上海开的法国餐厅，接受了一年

50th anniversary in November 2009. This was a sensational news to the local people and they

米其林三星标准的魔鬼式训练。他从实习生做起，

all felt sorry for its closure. In 2011, Jason had planned to take his friends to Carmen’s, where he once worked, only to find out that the restaurant had closed and was currently on sale. He spared

仅用半年时间就被聘为厨师，并晋升为领班，他是

no effort to buy this antique restaurant and spent two years in redesigning and constructing it.

这家餐厅开业六年以来，第一位在这么短的时间内

Overcoming obstacles and difficulties, the restaurant reopened its doors in November 2014.

得到让－乔治认可的中国人。在这家餐厅工作的两

As Jason told his story to me, his eyes shone with memory. There seemed to be a sense of destiny when he returned and eventually bought Carmen’s Although Jason did not have experience with the running a restaurant and would face many challenges he would persist and

年时间，他深深地体会到了世界级名厨对烹饪品质的极致追求。

never give up. Finally, the restaurant was recognized by some of Carmen’s early acquaintance

他通过应聘来到上海香格里拉 36 层翡翠餐

and its business started to get better and better. Jason made a legend of how a Chinese inherited

厅，这是一家殿堂级别的传统法式餐厅，每晚只

and managed an old Western restaurant, and the story of the Carmen’s would continue to be told.

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cuisine. Standing in front of me was a handsome young man and Chef at Carmen’s, and after we introduced ourselves, we gave each other a big hug. Qiliang Liu (Forrest) is 24 years old and comes from Shanghai, China. He learned cooking from his parents when he was a little boy. He went to cooking school when he was 16 years old, and also took a part time job in a Cantonese restaurant at that time. It was at this restaurant that he got to know the characteristics of Cantonese cuisine, he also learned how to use fresh ingredients to cook, which set up the foundation for his later career as a Western cuisine chef. After that, he went to Jean Georges’ Michelin Three-Star Restaurant in Shanghai, which was called the West Point in Shanghai Western cuisine restaurant. He was trained here madly for one year. At first, he was just an intern; but because he really did a good job, it took him only half year to become a real chef with a salary to match, and eventually became the team leader. The restaurant has been opened for 6 years and he is the first Chinese chef to be appreciated by

接待 40 名客人。每天处理着新鲜的会蠕动的蜗牛和鱼类，当它们呈现在客人面前的时候，客人们的满足感和赞许声深深触动着他。在此一年的历练使他深知精美菜肴的呈现，对食物的新鲜度有很大的要求。成为一名米其林大厨、拥有一家米

Jean Georges in such a short time. He worked here for two years, and he deeply understands the meaning of pursuing high-quality and strict requirements of Western cuisine as a world-class chef. The Jade on 36 Restaurant-Bar in East Shanghai Pudong Shangri-La is a very traditional and gorgeous restaurant, which is famous for its French cuisine. It only serves 40 guests

其林餐厅的梦想深深地“刻”在他的脑海中，外面的世界很精彩，他要出去看看。

every evening, and Forrest was hired as a Poisonnier or Fish station chef. Every day, Forrest

后来，他考取了加拿大著名的乔治布朗学院（George Brown College），开始了在

carefully dealt with fresh escargots and fish, when dishes were served in front of the guests, their

多伦多的生活。有位导师曾问他：“你是日本人，还是韩国人？”他说：“我是中国人。”导师很认真地说：“看你做的菜，就知道中国发生了很大的变化。”这句话，让他对烹饪创新的想法更加强烈。学习的第三年，他每天早上六点起床去学校，在学校的餐厅实习结束后，又到加拿大排名前十的独木舟（Canoe）餐厅工作，每天只睡三四个小时，甚至有过三十六个小时没有睡觉的经历。再苦再累，他都告诉自己： “坚持，坚持！” 毕业后，他来到北美著名的华人厨师李国伟（Susur Lee）的餐厅工作。工作之余他在面朝安大略湖的公寓开启了自己的“私人厨房”，不断地研究新菜式，邀请朋友们来品尝，在网络上很火。这时，黄家祥找到了他，开始了他与卡门牛扒房的缘分，也是他梦想开始的地方。怀着对食物的虔诚，我走进卡门牛扒房的厨房，见证了刘大厨如变魔术般呈现出一道道精致、美味的西餐。

satisfaction and praise were the motive and reward for him. After one year’s experience of working here, he knew how to display every dish to its perfection and punctiliously keep their freshness. He wishes to become a Michelin star chef and own a Michelin star restaurant one day. These dreams are deeply carved in his mind, and he decided to study abroad and broaden his horizon. He was admitted to the renowned George Brown College later and started his new life in Toronto. Once a tutor asked him if he was Japanese or Korean, he answered without doubt that he was a Chinese and then the tutor looked at him seriously, and said that he could tell from Forrest’s dishes that China must have developed a lot and changed rapidly these days. With these words, Forrest became even more eager to learn new ideas and skills of cooking. In the third year of his college, he got up at 6 o’clock every morning and went to school. After finishing his internship in college’s student restaurant, he went to work at Canoe, one of Canada’s Top Ten Restaurant. He slept three to four hours every day; and once, he even did not sleep for 36 hours. No matter how hard it was, he told himself to persist and keep going. After graduation, he went to work for Susur Lee, a popular Chinese chef’s restaurant. He lived in an apartment in the downtown Toronto. After work, he would always create new dishes at home. He kept studying and creating new dishes and would invite his friends to try his new

Brother Chef

dishes. Meanwhile, he put his creations on the World Journal interview and got a lot of feedback. This was how Jason found him and how they started the business at Carmen’s Steak House. I walked into the kitchen of Carmen’s Steak House with the respect for cuisine, and I

In such a legendary old steak house like Carmen’s, there must be an excellent chef for fine

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

watched how Forrest Liu made stunning and sumptuous dishes magically.

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法式鞑靼牛肉

French Style Beef Tartare

材料：新鲜牛里脊肉 100 克、洋葱、意大利西芹、辣椒油、橄榄油、芥末、盐、香料（1 个鹌鹑蛋蛋黄、洋葱碎、切碎的罐装酱菜、白兰地调和）、面包片做法：从冰箱取出冷藏的新鲜牛里脊肉，不需水洗，将其剁碎，用调料拌制，放在烘烤过的面包片上。 Ingredient：fresh beef sirloin 100g, onions, parsley, chili oil, olive oil, mustard, salt, spices (egg yolk of a quail egg, onion pieces, canned pickled vegetables, brandy), sliced bread Method: Take the fresh sirloin out, do not wash it, cut it into pieces and mix it with the sauce, and then put it on toast.

小胖点评在巴黎餐厅里常看到用新鲜的生牛肉、生鲑鱼或生干贝做成的法式鞑靼。传统的鞑靼牛肉，是精选牛身上最嫩、最昂贵的部位里脊肉制成生肉碎，加上各种调料及法式酱菜，最后压成一个肉饼而成。生牛肉刚从冰箱取出时呈鲜红色，若在室温下放置太久颜色就会变成灰色，所以须将牛肉迅速剁碎并拌好。用小勺轻轻舀起鲜红色的生牛肉，放在面包片上，咔嚓一声，香脆的面包与略带狂野气息的生牛肉在嘴中“炸”开，顿觉牛肉鲜美、嫩滑，与多种香味一起让人回味无穷！这道菜加入了中国元素，用辣椒和豆豉低温熬制的辣椒油。就是这少许辣椒油，让第一次吃生牛肉的我，瞬间爱上了它。 My Comment: Tartare is a common dish in many French restaurants – sirloin, salmon and scallop can all be made into tartare. Traditional steak tartare is made of the most fresh and expensive part of choice cattle, which is cut into pieces, added different spices and French pickled vegetables and finally pressed into a meat cake. When raw beef is taken freshly from the fridge, it is scarlet; it cannot be left too long in the open air, or else it will become gray. Therefore, raw beef should be shredded and mixed with sauce as soon as possible. Scoop some scarlet beef pieces onto a slice of toast; when you eat, you can hear a clear “crack” sound – crispy bread and wild raw beef crash inside your mouth, you can taste the freshness, smoothness and elasticity of the beef with different flavors, it is impressive and unforgettable! This beef tartare contained Chinese spices like chili oil, which is made from chili and salted black beans. It is the chili oil that made me fall in love with beef tartare on the first try.

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海盐、茉莉花、香煎扇贝 Seared Sea Scallop with Jasmine Cream

材料：新鲜扇贝、青豆、小红萝卜、藜麦、鸡汤、柠檬啫喱、七味粉、海盐、黄

小胖点评

油、芥花油、茉莉花奶茶泡、西洋菜苗做法：1. 将扇贝壳刷洗干净，撬开扇贝壳，用专用刀将扇贝肉片出，去掉黑色沙包，冲洗干净后用厨房纸吸干水分。 2. 平底锅放入芥花油，以 400 ℉［摄氏温度转华氏温度公式：t （℉）＝ 32 ＋ t （℃）×1.8］左右的油温将扇贝每面煎至金黄（约 30 秒），不放调料。 3. 煎扇贝的同时，将青豆、黄油、藜麦、鸡汤放入锅中煮成稠状，煮好后盛入盘中，再放扇贝，上面放柠檬啫喱、茉莉花奶茶泡，撒七味粉，最后用西洋菜苗和小红萝卜片点缀。 Ingredient：fresh scallop, beans, mini radish, quinoa, chicken soup, lemon jelly, shichimi, sea salt, butter, canola oil, jasmine cream, watercress sprout Method: 1. Wash scallop, then lift its shell, use a special knife to take out the flesh, get the black sand off, wash it again and put it on the kitchen tissue to let it dry. 2. Pour some canola oil into the pan, fry each side of the scallop meat at 400°F for 30 seconds until it becomes browned, do not put any sauce. 3. Put the beans, butter, quinoa and chicken soup into another pan and broil them until the sauce is thickened. Pour it in a plate, put the fried scallop meat, and then pour lemon jelly and jasmine cream on top. Sprinkle with

扇贝新鲜，不需加调料，突出了扇贝本身的鲜味。以精准的时间和经验将扇贝煎成表面微黄，里面却鲜嫩无比。若煎得太久，扇贝的口感就如同橡胶。在水煮的茉莉花茶中加入奶油、海盐收汁后冷却，然后将茉莉花茶灌入真空罐，注入氮气，茉莉花茶在真空下化成极小的分子，挤在扇贝上看起来像棉花一样，实现酱汁与茉莉花香的完美融合。让我印象深刻的是最后放上的一点柠檬啫喱，酸味提升了鲜味。扇贝外表焦脆，里面鲜嫩，可看到如蚕丝般的纹路，还有淡淡的海盐、茉莉花香，搭配清新的青豆、略带嚼劲的藜麦、酸酸的柠檬啫哩，我仿佛吃到了春天的味道！分子料理是烹饪学里的一个概念，它使食物发生物理或化学变化，从而把食材的原有味道、形态完全打破，我觉得是一种很神奇的烹饪方法。 My Comment: The scallop was very fresh, it was fried without any sauce at first to let its own flavor stand out. To make each side of the scallop crispy and golden, you need sophisticated time management; if you fry it for too long, its flesh will taste rubbery. Pour cream and sea salt into jasmine tea, cook until it gets thickened. Let it cool and put it into a vacuum bottle, then add nitrogen. The jasmine tea will become foam in the vacuum bottle. Squeeze the cream on to the scallop meat. It is a perfect combination of sauce and the fragrance of jasmine. What made the biggest impression for me was the lemon jelly, which can bring freshness and arouse people’s appetite. The scallop meat was crispy outside and tender inside, you could see the silky texture and taste the sea salt, jasmine, fresh beans, chewy quinoa and sour lemon jelly – it was like a bite of spring! This dish used molecular gastronomy, which is a special technique in gastronomic science. Molecular gastronomy uses physical and chemical reactions to create new forms and taste for food, it might be considered magic!

shichimi and decorate it with watercress sprout and sliced mini radish.

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Miso Sea Bass with Risotto

材料：意大利大米、小红萝卜、鳕鱼、味噌、菠菜泥、柴鱼片、西洋菜叶子、奶酪、盐、浓鸡汤、日本清酒、糖、黄油做法：1. 将意大利大米洗净，放入酒、浓鸡汤煮成半熟，冷却，再加入糖、黄油、奶酪一起煮，煮到像粥一样，再放入菠菜泥，做成意大利烩饭。

2. Mix miso paste, sugar and sake together, then wipe it on the sea bass. Put it in the fridge for three days, remember to turn it over the next day to make sure each side is marinated. When it is ready, take it out and wrap it with a piece of tinfoil, then put it in the oven and broil it at 600°F for two minutes. 3. Put the braised Italian rice into a plate, then put the miso sea bass beside it. You can also add some skipjack flake, watercress leaves and little radish on it.

2. 用味噌、糖、清酒搅拌的汁涂抹在鳕鱼上，放在保鲜盒中，密封后放入冰箱腌 3 天入味。隔天把鱼片上下翻转，使鳕鱼均匀地浸泡在味噌中。腌好后，把鳕鱼放入冰箱速冻。做这道菜时将味噌鳕鱼用锡纸包好，放入烤箱 600 ℉烤 2 分钟左右。 3. 将意大利烩饭放入盘中，再放上味噌鳕鱼，用柴鱼片、西洋菜叶子和小红

小胖点评这道菜的灵感来自中国广东地区的潮州粥，是一道花心思烹煮的菜。用走地鸡熬煮 8 小时以上的浓鸡汤与略带嚼劲的意大利米一起煮，香气扑鼻；为保持菠菜碧绿的颜色，菠菜泥不能放得太早；来自阿拉斯加的深海鳕鱼腌制后高温烤制，瞬间“锁”住鳕鱼的水分，鱼肉鲜嫩美味。

萝卜点缀。 My Comment:

Ingredient：arborio rice, little radish, sea bass, miso paste, spinach puree, bonito flakes, watercress leaves, cheese, salt, thick chicken soup, sake, sugar, butter Method: 1. Wash Arborio rice, pour wine and thick chicken soup into it and boil until it is half done. Let it cool.

The inspiration for this dish comes from Cantonese congee, which needs time and patience. Use choice fowl and cook it for over eight hours, and then put Italian rice into the chicken soup, it smells so nice; to maintain the color of the spinach, you cannot put it too early into the pot; roast the marinated Alaska sea bass, it will preserve its juice immediately and make its meat tender and tasty.

Put sugar, butter, cheese in the rice, boil it until it becomes porridge, then add spinach puree and make risotto.

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纽约客牛排

New York Style Steak

材料：加拿大顶级新鲜牛肉、色拉油、黑胡椒、海盐、百里香、西洋菜苗、牛尾汤做法：1. 高温铁板上放色拉油，将牛肉放在 600 ℉的铁板上两面煎制变色（每面煎 1 分钟左右），煎的过程中，淋少许油在铁板和肉上，撒盐和黑胡椒。 2. 再将牛肉放入烤箱 500 ℉烤 5 分钟左右，将温度计插入牛肉中探测牛肉的温度，当温度达到 125 ℉时，牛肉达到三成熟。取出牛肉，静置 3 ～ 5 分钟，浇上用牛尾汤熬制的浓汁，用小西洋菜苗点缀。 Ingredient：canadian Prime steak, salad oil, black pepper, sea salt, thyme, watercress sprout, ox tail jus Method: 1. Pour salad oil into a hot iron plate, put the steak in the plate and grill each side at 600°F for about one minute until it is lightly browned. Drizzle with some oil on the meat and plate while grilling. Sprinkle some sea salt and black pepper on it. 2. Put the steak into an oven and cook at 500°F for 5 minutes. Put a thermometer in the steak to test its temperature. When it reaches 125°F, it is rare. Take it out of the oven and put it on a plate, after 3-5 minutes, pour ox tail soup on it and decorate it with watercress sprout.

小胖点评在我的美食体验中，很少尝到这么好吃的牛排。首选全加拿大仅 2% 的优质牛身上前腰脊肉肥美多汁的上乘牛排，这部分有漂亮的雪花纹路，肥瘦比例均匀，色泽鲜亮诱人。牛肉撒海盐和黑胡椒后在高温铁板上每面煎制至变色，迅速“锁”住牛肉的水分。入烤箱高温烤制后，取出静置，是因为在煎和烤的过程中，水分已经流失，静置后，水分可以慢慢地从中间回到肉的四周。这道菜的牛排外表呈褐色，肉香扑鼻，切开后，肉汁流出，透出牛肉嫩嫩的粉红色。吃起来，外焦里嫩，还有淡淡的咸味和甜味，口感柔软。向刘大厨请教后才知道，这是 2% 的加拿大优质牛吃的是玉米的缘故。 My Comment: This is one of the best steaks that I have ever tasted. The best choice of steak is the juicy sirloin, which is among top 2% steaks in Canada – it has beautiful texture like snowflake or marble, its meat is between lean and fatty, it is red and white and has a luscious gloss. Fry each side of the steak in an iron plate and spread sea salt and black pepper at each side. With high temperature, its water can be better preserved. After taking it out of the oven, let it sit for a while. When it is broiled, its juice will be lost; when placing it in the air, its juice will return to the middle. The steak looks brown on the outside and is fragrant; when cutting it, the meat juice comes out and the meat looks pink on the inside. A little salt and pepper can make the taste multiple and be richer. After asking Forrest, I got to know that the sweetness of these top 2% steaks comes from the beef itself because Canadian cattle eat corn.

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熔岩蛋糕

Chocolate Lava Cake

材料：70％黑巧克力块 90 克、淡奶油 40 毫升、黄油 40 克、鸡蛋 50 克、糖粉 50 克、高筋面粉 20 克、色拉油做法：1. 将淡奶油 40 毫升加热至沸腾后离火，趁热加入黑巧克力块 50 克，搅拌溶化成巧克力内馅，放入冰箱冷藏直到凝固，取出备用。 2. 将黑巧克力块 40 克和黄油隔水加热直到溶化，搅拌均匀。 3. 将鸡蛋和糖粉打发成浓稠状的鸡蛋液（拿起打蛋器，蛋液呈粗线状缓慢流下），然后加入巧克力和黄油搅拌均匀，再加入高筋面粉搅拌成面糊。在模具内涂抹一层色拉油以便脱模，然后把面糊取一部分倒入 4 个模具中，用勺子挖一块巧克力内馅放到模具中间，把剩余的面糊分别倒入 4 个模具中至七分满，放入烤箱中层 350 ℉烤 15 分钟左右出炉。 Ingredient：70% dark chocolate 90g, light cream 40ml, butter 40g, egg 50g, sugar 50g, bread flour 20g, salad oil Method: 1. Boil the light cream, when it is still hot, put 50g dark chocolate inside. Whisk until it becomes creamy, then put it in the fridge until it is frozen. 2. Steam 40g dark chocolate and butter until they melt, mix them together properly. 3. Whisk an egg and sugar into creamy liquid (when you hold the eggbeater in the air, you can see it stream smoothly). Then stir chocolate and butter, and mix them with bread flour. Wipe some salad oil in the cake mold, then pour dough in four different molds, scoop chocolate stuffing and put it inside each mold, cover them with the rest dough until it is 70% full. Put molds in the middle of the oven and bake at 350°F for fifteen minutes.

小胖点评蛋糕中的“熔岩”特别考验功夫，难度在于精准地把握烘烤的时间和温度。切开蛋糕，巧克力浓浆会像火山熔岩一样缓缓溢出，甜味和苦味逐渐融合，找到一个平衡点。蛋糕冰凉可口，甜度适中，能盖住之前所吃的菜的各种味道，让你的口腔中弥漫着巧克力的香甜味道，幸福、开心的感觉油然而生。 My Comment: The “lava” is the most difficult part of making the cake because you need to manage the baking time and temperature precisely. When you cut the cake in half, the chocolate stuffing spills out slowly like lava, and its bitterness is balanced with sweetness. The lava cake tastes cool and delicate with a medium sweetness, which can cover all taste of the dishes that you just had and fill your mouth with the fragrance of chocolate. Then, happiness and fulfillment appear from the bottom of your heart.

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2015 年 11 月 7 日 / November 7, 2015

Scaddabush Italian Kitchen&Bar

可以看到厨师做菜的过程。每日的主厨和菜名，醒目地写在墙上的小黑板上。电视里完美的意大利厨房和酒吧

播放着意大利足球，客人们可以围坐在吧台边看电视边品尝美酒。餐厅既有现代风格又有怀旧元素，灯光幽暗，音乐略带动感，一面墙上悬挂着老式自行车和老照片，另一面陈列着整面墙的红酒。年轻的侍者在餐厅中穿梭，露出洁白的牙齿微笑着与客人打招呼，让我感受到意大利人的热情。食材、切菜板、烤箱、餐具已准备就绪，我和意大利厨师奥布莱恩共同完成的意大利美食等着你品尝！

Scaddabush Italian Kitchen & Bar Scaddabush means “everything of us” in Italian and it expresses how passionate and generous Italians are. They like to go to restaurant with their friends and family, and enjoy the fine food and a healthy and high-quality life together. Scaddabush is a very cool restaurant in Toronto, I would like to visit this restaurant more frequently. After I got the business card for this restaurant, I sent them several emails and explained my request. I told them how much I wanted to learn about Italian cuisine, to write about them down in my book and let more Chinese people learn about Italian food. After several e-mails and phone calls, they finally agreed to my request and let me visit. It was not an easy task!

完美的意大利厨房和酒吧 Scaddabush 是意大利俚语，意思是各种各样的。意大利人热情、慷慨，他们喜欢餐厅挤满了朋友和家人，一起享受美食，享受健康与高品质的生活。完美的意大利厨房和酒吧在多伦多是一家著名的餐厅和酒吧。拿到这家餐厅的卡片后，发给餐厅的邮件辗转了几次才取得联系，我向经理说明我的来意，作为学生的我，想了解意大利菜，并写进我的书里，让更多的中国朋友了解意大利菜。经理最终给了我这次采访机会。真是来之不易啊！ 2015 年 11 月 7 日下午两点，餐厅经理热情地接待了我，还介绍了当日的主厨奥布莱恩（Chef O’Brien）给我认识。再次说明我的来意，并确认今天学习和拍摄的内容后，我便换上厨师服走进了餐厅的开放式厨房。这家餐厅开业至今，我是走进厨房的第一个非餐厅工作人员，这个机会太难得了！餐厅有 1000 多平方米，分用餐区和酒吧区。餐厅浪漫而雅致，桌椅摆放整齐，按高低、大小、用餐人数的需求设置了不同区域。最吸引眼球的是开放式的厨房，客人

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At 2pm on November 7th, 2015, I walked into this restaurant. The manager gave me a warm

The restaurant is about 1000 square meters and divided into the dining area and bar. The

welcome and introduced the “Chef of the Day”, Chef O’Brien to me. I told them the purpose of my

atmosphere in the restaurant is romantic and elegant with chairs and tables placing properly

visit face to face and what I wanted to do today. I got dressed in a formal chef outfit. I was the first

according to their height, size and number of guests. The most attractive area is the open kitchen,

non-staff person to go into the kitchen since it opened. I felt so honored!

you can see the chefs and how they cook when sitting in your own seats. The little blackboard hanging on the wall will show you “chef of the day” and specials clearly. People sit at the bar, drinking wine and watching a football game on TV. The decoration of the restaurant is a mixture of modern design and old-fashioned style – the light is dim and the music is a bit energetic, there are old bikes, photos and a shelf of wines hanging on the wall. Young waiters all keep smile on their faces and give me the most warm-hearted welcome. The ingredients, chopping board, oven and tableware are ready, I sincerely invite you to have a taste of the dishes made by Italian Chef O’Brien and me!

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牛油果、奶酪、面包塔塔 Avocado Tartare with Cheese Bread

加拿大多伦多篇

Method: 1. Cut the baguette into 2cm thick oblong slices, wipe onion and butter evenly on it and bake it in oven for two minutes. 2. Slip off the avocado skin and discard its core, take the pulp out and put it into a container. Add diced tomato, chevret, thyme, basil and salt in it, mix them up and the avocado cream is done.

材料：意大利香草长棍面包、蒜末、黄油、小番茄丁、牛油果、山羊奶酪、百里香、罗勒碎、帕玛森奶酪、盐做法：1. 将长棍面包切成 2 厘米厚的斜片，均匀地涂抹蒜末和黄油后放入烤箱烤 2 分钟。

3. Spread the avocado cream on the bread and sprinkle some minced Parmesan cheese on it.

小胖点评意大利香草面包，涂上蒜末和黄油后再次烘烤得香脆，在奶酪的融合下，牛油果酱清爽、润

2. 将牛油果去壳、去核，把果肉放入容器中，加入番茄丁、山羊奶酪、百里

滑，有淡淡的咸味。牛油果又称“鳄梨”，富含多种微量元素，是一种高能低糖的水果，口感有点

香、罗勒碎、盐搅拌均匀，制成牛油果酱。

像法国鹅肝，又散发着似蛋黄和青草的香气。

3. 在烤好的面包上抹牛油果酱，再撒上帕玛森奶酪碎。

My Comment: With the Italian vanilla bread at the bottom and onion and butter on top, you can hear the clear cracking sound of the bread

Ingredient：Italian vanilla bread, garlic, butter, diced tomato, avocado, chevret, thyme, basil, Parmesan cheese, salt

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

when taking a bite. Avocado is a very healthy fruit, which contains high protein, low sugar and a lot of micronutrients. It tastes creamy like goose liver and smells like egg yolk and vanilla, which makes this dish fresher and smoother.

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小胖点评马苏里拉奶酪产于意大利南部，以水牛奶为主要材料，现在市场上大多改用牛奶制作。这家餐厅每天现做的马苏里拉奶酪，搭配从尼亚加拉瀑布农场专供的帕尔玛火腿，成就了这道经典的意大利菜。用刀切一小块洁白的马苏里拉奶酪，略带温度，慢慢地咀嚼，富有弹性，奶香味足，口中回甘。帕尔玛火腿片如纸一样薄，红白相间，一片叠着一片，奶味、咸味、甜味和脆脆的感觉融合在一起，有很强的层次感。这道菜每一份都会写上制作者的名字，这是一种自豪，更是对美食品质的追求！ My Comment: Mozzarella cheese is made in the south of Italy. Different from the other cheeses sold in the market, Mozzarella cheese is made from buffalo milk instead of cow milk. The Mozzarella cheese here is freshly made every day, and the Parma ham is ordered from the Niagara Falls Farm – it is a popular dish in Scaddabush restaurant. Cut a slice of the ivory Mozzarella cheese and put it in your mouth, chew it slowly and you can feel the temperature, elastic and fragrance of milk, which can last for a long time. Sliced Parma ham is as thin as a piece of paper, it is red and white and translucent, piling one above the other brings you a layered taste – milky, salty, sweet and crispy – it is so harmonious! The restaurant will press the chef’s name on their Mozzarella cheese to show respect and pride in the pursuit of high-quality food.

马苏里拉奶酪

Fresh Mozzarella Cheese

材料：马苏里拉奶酪、面包、海盐、黑胡椒、帕尔玛火腿、无花果果酱、初榨橄榄油做法：1. 将马苏里拉奶酪放入 200 ℉的热水中浸泡 2 分钟后取出，用手拉伸成球状。 2. 取一块长木板，摆上马苏里拉奶酪，撒盐、黑胡椒，淋少许橄榄油。再放上帕尔玛火腿、无花果果酱、海盐、面包。 Ingredient：Mozzarella cheese, bread, sea salt, black pepper, Parma ham, fig jam, virgin olive oil Method: 1. Put Mozzarella cheese on 200°F hot water for two minutes, take it out and roll it into a ball. 2. Put Mozzarella cheese on a rectangle wooden board, sprinkle sea salt, black pepper and a little bit olive oil on it. Then place Parma ham, fig jam, sea salt and bread on it.

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龙虾意大利面

Lobster Spaghetti

材料：手工制作的意大利面、新鲜龙虾、辣番茄酱汁、鲜奶油、烤小番茄、烤红椒、帕玛森奶酪、芝麻菜、新鲜罗勒叶、红葱头丝、橄榄油、黄油、红酒、柠檬汁做法：1. 新鲜龙虾焯水后取出龙虾肉，把手工意大利面煮熟。 2. 把锅烧热后放入橄榄油，将红葱头丝和龙虾肉炒至变色，再加烤小番茄、烤红椒翻炒。放适量的黄油和鲜奶油，放入少许用红酒、柠檬汁、龙虾壳熬制的番茄酱汁搅拌均匀，做成龙虾意大利面酱汁，出锅前拌入芝麻菜、新鲜罗勒叶。 3. 将意大利面装入盘中，浇上龙虾意大利面酱汁，洒帕玛森奶酪，用新鲜罗勒叶点缀。 Ingredient：handmade spaghetti, fresh lobster, spicy tomato sauce, fresh cream, baked tomato, broiled red pepper, parmesan cheese, sesame leaves, basil, shredded shallot, olive oil, butter, red wine, lemon juice Method: 1. Discard the lobster shell, cook lobster meat then take it out, and then cook the handmade spaghetti. 2. Preheat a pan, pour some olive oil, put shredded shallot and lobster meat in and fry them. Add baked tomato, red pepper, butter and cream in, too. Drizzle with a little bit red wine, lemon juice and tomato sauce cooked with lobster shell, and mix them up. Before taking it out, whisk sesame leaves and basil with it and the lobster sauce is done. 3. Put cooked spaghetti in a plate, pour the lobster sauce on top, sprinkle some Parmesan cheese and decorate it with fresh basil.

小胖点评将意大利面煮至有嚼劲为最佳。酱汁是这道菜的“灵魂”，红葱头丝、龙虾肉、烤小番茄和烤红椒增加了这道菜的香气，黄油和鲜奶油增加了黏稠度和奶香味，用红酒、柠檬汁、龙虾壳熬制的番茄酱汁增加了酸味和甜味。浓郁的酱汁包裹着意面，颜色鲜艳，酸甜可口，鲜而浓稠。 My Comment: Cook the spaghetti until al dente. The essence of this dish is the lobster sauce – it is mixed with shredded red onion, lobster meat, baked tomato and red pepper to increase its flavor; butter and cream are used to make it creamy and milky. Red wine, lemon juice, tomato sauce are also put inside to make it taste sweet and sour. You can taste the elasticity of the spaghetti and the thickness of the sauce at the same time. It looks colorful and tastes sweet and sour, fresh and creamy.

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Butcher Pizza

材料：黑豚辣味香肠、培根、意大利红腊肠、熟牛肉馅、马苏里拉奶酪、烤蒜、红

小胖点评

葱头、意大利圣马力诺番茄酱、橄榄油、盐、高筋面粉、酵母做法：1. 将酵母与温水混合，放少许盐、橄榄油，加入高筋面粉揉成面团，静置 2 小时等待发酵。然后将面团切成小块，擀制面饼，做成比萨坯。 2. 在比萨坯上均匀地摆放黑豚辣味香肠、培根、意大利红腊肠、熟牛肉馅、

餐厅的特色是用窑烤火炉烤制比萨。将做好的比萨放入烤盘，用大铲子送入烤炉中用明火烤，为了防止受热不均，厨师要不断地用铲子将饼底换方向烤。比萨出炉，放在木板上呈给客人，用滚轮式切刀将比萨切成小块品尝。比萨散发着诱人的炭火烤过的香气，火腿色泽鲜艳，肉香味十足，面饼香脆，咸香可口。

马苏里拉奶酪、烤蒜、红葱头、意大利圣马力诺番茄酱。放入烤炉 325 ℉烤 7 分钟。

My Comment: The characteristic of this restaurant is the use of a stove to roast pizza. The chef will put the pizza on a plate, and use a big shovel to push it into the stove. In order to bake it evenly, the chef keeps changing the position of the pizza plate. The plate

Ingredient：spicy black pork sausage, bacon, Italian style red sausage, beef stuffing, Mozzarella cheese, broiled onion, shallot, San Marino tomato sauce, olive oil, salt, pizza paste, yeast

is extremely hot when it is taken out from the stove, so the chef will put it on a wooden board and then serve it on the table. Use a pizza knife to cut it into slices. It smells so nice with tempting sausage, a crispy pizza crust, with salted and sweet meat.

Method: 1. Stir yeast with warm water, put a little salt and olive oil inside, mix them with bread flour. Leave it there for two hours until it is fermented. Cut it into small pieces and roll them into round pastes. 2. Spread spicy black pork sausage, bacon, Italian red sausage, beef stuffing, Mozzarella cheese, broiled onion, shallot and San Marino tomato sauce on it evenly. Put it in the oven for seven minutes at 325°F.

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2015 年 11 月 14 日 / November 14, 2015

Top of the World – St Lawrence Market

逛圣劳伦斯市场的最佳时间是星期六，这一天，农夫们早上五点就来到市场，布多伦多圣劳伦斯市场

置好摊位后还不到七点，之后集市就热闹起来了。除了室内摊位，市场上还有不少露天摊位，冬天也是如此。这里不仅有市民和游人光顾，而且也是多伦多餐厅的主厨们选择食材的地方。这里可以买到新鲜、品质好的食材，还可以品尝到很多特色食品，面包、寿司、汉堡、烧烤等，总有一款适合你。参观集市时，我买了一些树莓和蓝莓，大小比一般超市里卖的更大，非常新鲜，不添加化肥，绿色种植。还买了一块新鲜、品质好的牛扒作为晚餐。这里是多伦多值得参观和购买食材的好地方。

Top of the World – St Lawrence Market St Lawrence Market has a history of more than 200 years and is located in the center of Toronto’s Old Town. There are three ancient buildings representing the typical architecture in Toronto. In the “2012 Top Ten Food Markets” of National Geographic , St Lawrence ranked first in the world against other markets like Greenmarket of New York Union Square and Castries Market of St Lucia. St Lawrence is divided into two parts – the south and the north. In the south part, there are over 100 stores selling fresh fruit, vegetable, meat, fish, cereal, baked food, dairy and some nonfood stuff. The underground and first floor mainly sell fresh handmade food like bread and meat,

多伦多圣劳伦斯市场

the second floor is filled with art stores, which displays the artistic part of Toronto. The north part of the market is famous for its Saturday free market, this tradition has lasted since 1803, and it is the main area for South Ontario farmers to sell seasonal food. On Sundays, there are more than 80

多伦多圣劳伦斯市场（St Lawrence Market）是多伦多乃至全球著名的集市，有

curio dealers coming to the north market and selling their antique. Whenever the market opens, it becomes busy and lively.

200 多年的历史，位于多伦多老城区中心，市场内三座古老的建筑是多伦多的地标

The best time to go around St Lawrence is on Saturday. Farmers will come here and set up

式建筑。在美国《国家地理》杂志 2012 年度的集市评选中，圣劳伦斯市场击败了世

their stalls at 5am. The market becomes busy at 7am. Besides stores inside the market, there

界各地的竞争者（如纽约联合广场的绿色市集、加勒比的卡斯特里市场等），排名全球第一。多伦多圣劳伦斯市场分为两部分。南端的市场有 100 多个商铺，贩卖新鲜的水果、蔬菜、肉、鱼、谷物、烘焙食品、乳制品等。第一层和地下一层是以经营新鲜手工制造食品为主的特产市场，如面包房、肉店等。南边市场的二楼是画廊，展示了多伦多市的文化艺术。北边市场以周六农贸市场闻名，只在星期六开放，这个传统从 1803 年

are also many in the open air, even in winter. Local people and tourists will come here, as well as chefs from Toronto restaurants. You not only get fresh and high-quality food here, but can also taste many foods like bread, sushi, hamburger and barbecue. There must be something you like. I bought raspberry and blueberry here, they were much bigger and fresher than what was sold at the supermarket. It was very natural and had no additives. I bought a piece of good quality sirloin beef for dinner. St Lawrence Market is the most recommended place to visit and buy fresh produce and food.

开始延续至今，是安大略省南部的农民贩卖季节性产品的主要市场。周日有 80 多家的古董商在北边市场及周边广场展示他们的商品。每当集市开放，这里便热闹非凡。

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2016 年 2 月 12 日 / February 12, 2016

George Brown College The Chefs’ House

加拿大乔治·布朗学院厨师餐厅

George Brown College The Chefs’ House George Brown College The Chefs’ House was founded in 1967, and it is the most famous chef college in Canada. There are many prominent chefs who have graduated from here. The Chefs’ House is the cooking internship restaurant of George Brown College where students learn real working skills in the hospitality industry. It is a creative outlet where you can taste many new dishes. The Executive Chef here is Xiaoming Li (Oliver). He is also the instructor of many students. Students learn basic course and theory for the first semester, in addition students will come to practice here. Interns can experience working in a kitchen and follow the menu set by their instructors; catering students will learn the manners and how to serve guests here. The motto at The Chefs’ House is – “learning is our main ingredient”, which means to provide more actual working opportunities for students. The menu of The Chefs’ House is divided into Lunch and Dinner, and the appetizers, main course and desserts are totally different for these two menus. The menu also changes seasonally. This can help students to learn different cooking skills and dishes.

亲切的厨师长李先生一个冬天的午后，在忙完午餐后，厨

加拿大乔治·布朗学院厨师餐厅

师长李先生接受了我的采访。他和蔼、慈祥，当我握着他的手时，有些激动，又感到很温暖。他微笑着看着我，为我戴上厨

乔治· 布朗学院（George Brown College）成立于 1967 年，是加拿大最有名的厨师学院，很多明星厨师都毕业于这里。厨师之家（The Chefs' House）是乔治 · 布朗烹饪学院

师帽，好像我的家人。作为晚辈，我非常荣幸地聆听了他的故事。

的实习餐厅，是一家充满活力和品尝创意菜的餐厅。厨师长李小明（Oliver Li）是这家

李先生年轻时学的是工程专业，毕业

餐厅学生们的导师。烹饪学院的学生进行第一学期的理论课程学习后，第二学期便会

后做了工程师。改革开放初期，希尔顿酒

来这里实习。在这里，学生可以体验厨房的工作，根据导师设计的菜单进行实际操作；

店进驻上海，他作为第一批工作人员参加

学习餐饮业管理的学生，要为来此进餐的客人提供标准的服务。这就是该餐厅提倡的

了培训，培训内容包括英语、西餐礼仪、

经营理念——“学习就是我们的主要食材”。在厨师之家实习可以为学生们将来的工

西餐烹饪、餐饮管理等。1988 年希尔顿酒

作积累经验。厨师之家的菜单分为午餐和晚餐，而且会根据季节的变化变换菜单，让

店开业，他从最初的普通工作人员做到了

学生们有更多的机会接触不同的食材和尝试各种烹调方法。

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西餐部的副总厨。他在这里工作了六年，他管理着有多种肤色、多种语言的团队，他以自己的人格魅力和管理方式，完成了一名中国人、一名工程师在著名五星级酒店西餐部晋升为大厨的华丽转身。当时希尔顿酒店西餐部的主厨是一位德国人，与李先生的合作非常愉快。这位主厨在回德国经营自己的餐厅前邀请李先生去德国发展，就这样，李先生开始了一段新的旅程。他前往德国法兰克福著名的黑星餐厅工作，三年半后，他和家人移民加拿大，在多伦多的希尔顿酒店又工作了八年。2005 年，他来到厨师之家成为厨师长和导师，教导在这里实习的学生们，李先生目前已获得加拿大厨师中的最高级别。他告诉学生们，做菜时要注重食材与季节的变化，采用现代烹饪方法，融合国际化的饮食特点，讲究营养搭配和优质的服务；实际操作中要准确、熟练，放多少盐、胡椒粉，牛扒煎几成熟，时间安排等，要做到精益求精。李先生做厨师这一行已经 30 多年了，丰富的工作经验就是他的财富。作为一名华人大厨，在世界著名的乔治 · 布朗烹饪学院教导来自世界各地的学生学习西餐烹饪，非常了不起，我由衷地敬佩他！

Friendly Chef Li On a busy winter afternoon, Chef Li finally had time to accept my request for an interview. He was so nice and kind. When we shook my hands, I was excited to finally meet him. He smiled at me like an old friend and helped me put on a chef hat. As a student, writer and amateur cook, it was a great honor to listen and include his story in my book. When Oliver was young, he learned engineering in Shanghai and he became an engineer after graduation. At the start of China’s Reform and opening-up, Hilton Hotel invested in Shanghai, Oliver was the first group of employees to be trained in English, manners, cooking and management there. When the Hilton Hotel finally opened in 1988, he became the deputy chef-in-

chief of the Western cuisine department. Oliver worked there for six years, the staff in his team were from different cultures and spoke different dialects. Because of his personality and capacity of management, he was promoted to become the Executive Chef later. There was also another German chef in his department at that time, he worked very well with Oliver. When he resigned and went back to run his own restaurant in Germany, he asked Oliver to go with him. This was a new opportunity for Oliver. During the time that he applied for a German visa, he worked in a French restaurant in Shanghai. When he got his visa for Germany, he worked at the Zum Schwarzen Stern in Frankfurt for three and a half years. After his stay in Germany, he went to Canada with his family and worked at the Toronto Hilton Hotel for eight years. In 2005, he became the Executive Chef and instructor in The Chefs’ House and taught interns there. Oliver has already gotten the top award among Canadian chefs. He always tells his students to pay attention to the seasonal change of ingredients, use modern cooking skills, learn different kinds of food, keep a balance of nutrition and give the best service possible. During cooking classes, he asks his students to have a good command of managing the procedure of making food, the quantity of putting salt and pepper and the time needed to grill steak. He tells his students how to manage time well and to always seek for greater perfection. Oliver has been a chef for over 30 years, his experience is his wealth. Teaching Western cuisine at George Brown College as a Chinese chef, I think he is great and brilliant. I admire him so much and feel so proud of him!

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意式土豆馅饺子配番茄汁 Potato Stuffed Ravioli with Homemade Tomato Sauce

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teaspoons of mint, pecorino cheese 200g, salt, black pepper; ketchup, celery, carrot, diced onion, canned tomato, basil, salt, black pepper, butter Method: 1. Mix bread flour, wheat bran with salt and water. Whisk it with peeled potato, cheese, egg yolk, mint, salt and black pepper and make stuffing. Cut the dough, make it into ravioli skin and wrap potato stuffing in it. 2. Fry celery, carrot, diced onion, and put ketchup, canned tomato, salt, black pepper and basil inside to make

材料：250 克面粉、250 克麸皮、水、盐；3 个煮熟的土豆、1 个蛋黄、3 茶匙薄荷、 200 克佩科里诺奶酪、盐、黑胡椒；番茄酱、芹菜、胡萝卜、洋葱丁、番茄罐头、罗勒、盐、黑胡椒、黄油做法：1. 将面粉、麸皮加盐、水和成面团。将煮好的去皮土豆搅碎，加入佩科里诺奶酪、蛋黄、薄荷、盐、黑胡椒搅拌做成饺子馅。用机器把面团切成饺子皮，将土豆馅包进饺子皮中，做成饺子。

sauce. 3. Boil water, put the ravioli in and take it out after one minute. Put two pieces of butter in the pan, then put ravioli and some water inside. When it is ready, take it out and spread homemade tomato sauce on it.

小胖点评意大利饺子与中国饺子的形状类似，虽看似简单，实际上有点难度，我尝试了几次后，终于包

2. 在锅中用黄油把芹菜、胡萝卜、洋葱丁炒香，加入番茄酱、罐装番茄搅

出了符合标准的意式土豆馅饺子。饺子用黄油加少许水煎，瞬间热气蒸腾，有点像中国的水煎饺。

拌，放盐、黑胡椒、罗勒调味，制成酱汁。

土豆馅饺子吃起来口感软糯、有淡淡的奶香味，搭配番茄酱汁，突出酸甜的口感。中国的水饺大都

3. 在锅中放入适量水，烧开后放入饺子煮 1 分钟左右，然后捞出饺子控水。

是肉和蔬菜馅，味道咸香，而意大利饺子馅常用土豆加奶酪，软绵、爽滑。

在平底锅中放入 2 块黄油，加热熔化后放入饺子，加少许水将饺子煎好，最后装入盘中，搭配番茄酱汁。

My Comment: Ravioli looks very similar to Chinese dumplings. Making ravioli seems simple, in fact, it is very hard. After a few tries, I finally made standard Italian ravioli. Fry the ravioli with butter and a little water, the steam soon evaporates like frying Chinese dumplings. The potato stuffing tastes soft and milky, it tastes a bit sour and appetizing with tomato sauce. Chinese dumpling is

Ingredient：bread flour 250g, wheat bran 250g, water, salt; three cooked potatoes, one egg yolk, three

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

usually stuffed with salted pork and vegetables while ravioli is stuffed with potato and cheese to make it soft and sweet.

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香煎罗非鱼配扁豆、蔬菜混合酱汁 Pan-seared Tilapia, Green Lentils and Root Vegetable Ragout

材料：罗非鱼 3 片、黄油、罐装小扁豆、柠檬汁、土豆丁、胡萝卜泥做法：1. 在平底锅中放入黄油，将罗非鱼煎至变色，放入烤箱 350 ℉烤 5 分钟。 2. 胡萝卜煮熟打成泥，加入少许柠檬汁。煮熟的土豆去皮，冷却后切丁。 3. 摆盘，先放胡萝卜泥，再放土豆丁和小扁豆，最后放 3 片罗非鱼。 Ingredient：three pieces of tilapia, butter, canned beans, lemonade, diced potato, smashed carrot Method: 1. Put butter in a pan, fry tilapia until it turns browned, and put it in the oven for five minutes at 350°F. 2. Cook the carrot and smash it, add some lemonade. Remove the potato skin, cool and cut it into dices. 3. Put the smashed carrot at the bottom of the plate, then diced potato and beans, and put the three pieces of tilapia on top.

小胖点评鱼肉煎至变色后再放入烤箱烤制，颜色呈金黄色，表皮有些脆，鱼肉鲜嫩、雪白。小扁豆原产于亚洲西南部和地中海东部地区，搭配胡萝卜泥和土豆丁，是很健康的饮食。胡萝卜泥中酸酸的柠檬汁是这道菜的“灵魂”，提升了鱼的鲜味和口感。食材新鲜，烹饪方法简单，崇尚健康的饮食理念，这是我从西餐烹饪中所学到的。 My Comment: Fry the tilapia until its color turns, and put it in the oven for five minutes at 350°F. until its flesh is white and the skin is crispy and brown. Beans come from the southwest of Asia and the east of Mediterranean, it is very healthy to mix them with smashed carrot and diced potato. Pour lemonade inside, which can make it a bit sourer, fresher and smoother. Fresh ingredients, simple cooking style and a healthy diet is some of what I am learning from Western cuisine.

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红烧排骨配韩式炒饭 Braised Spareribs and Korean Style Fried Rice

材料：排骨、菜心、菜籽油、米饭、洋葱丝、韩国泡菜碎、培根碎、八角、茴香、葱、姜、酱油、糖、料酒、盐做法：1. 将排骨洗净焯水煮至八成熟，菜心焯水后沥干。 2. 在热锅中放入油，葱、姜爆锅，放排骨翻炒，加入酱油、料酒、八角、茴香、糖、少许水煮 20 分钟左右。取出排骨，剩余的汤收汁并过滤。 3. 另起锅放入油，将韩国泡菜碎、洋葱丝炒软，放培根碎翻炒，再放入米饭炒匀，加少许盐调味。 4. 将炒好的米饭用圆圈模子压成饼，放在盘子中间，上面摆几根菜心，再放排骨，最后淋上排骨汁。 Ingredient：spareribs, choy sum, colza oil, rice, shredded onion, shredded kimchi, shredded bacon, aniseed, thyme, chive, ginger, soy, sugar, cooking wine, salt Method: 1. Wash spareribs and cook it until it is almost done, wash choy sum and dry it. 2. Pour in colza oil, fry chive, ginger and spareribs, then put in soy, cooking wine, aniseed, thyme, sugar and some water and cook for about 20 minutes. Then take spareribs out and filter the sauce. 3. Fry shredded kimchi and onion, then put bacon in and fry them with rice, add some salt. 4. Press the fried rice into a bowl shape and put it in the middle of the plate, put a little choy sum and spareribs on top, then pour sauce.

小胖点评这道菜是李先生根据中国红烧排骨的制作方法设计的一道中西结合的新菜，深受外国朋友的喜爱。用泡菜、培根炒的米饭，有淡淡的酸辣味和培根的咸香；红烧排骨肉质紧实、有嚼劲；排骨酱汁的酱香味十足，增加了米饭的香气和口感，这样的搭配让人很惊喜。 My Comment: This dish is inspired by the Chinese style braised spareribs, Oliver adds Korean kimchi fried rice in it and it becomes popular with many foreign friends. The rice tastes a bit spicy and salty with kimchi and bacon. The braised spareribs are chewy, the sauce makes it savory and adds flavor to the rice. This is a dish with many pleasant surprises.

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香草酸奶意式奶冻配蓝莓酱和杏仁饼 Vanilla Yogurt Panna Cotta with Blueberry Compote and Almond Cookies

材料：脂肪含量 35% 的澄清奶油 370 毫升、糖 110 克、明胶片 6 张、酸奶 500 克、香草豆荚 1 个、蓝莓酱、杏仁饼做法：1. 把明胶片泡 5 分钟。将糖、奶油、香草籽放在一起加热，然后放入明胶片和酸奶，过滤后再次加热。 2. 将以上加热好的东西倒入磨具冷冻 24 小时，然后取出奶冻，搭配蓝莓酱和杏仁饼。 Ingredient：35% cream 370g, sugar 110g, six pieces of gelatin, yogurt 500g, one vanilla pod, blueberry jam, almond cookies Method: 1. Marinate the gelatin for five minutes, cook sugar, cream and vanilla, put gelatin and yogurt inside. Filter it and cook it one more time. 2. Pour it in the mold and freeze it for 24 hours. Take the panna cotta out and put blueberry and almond cookies on top.

小胖点评意大利的甜品和冰淇淋全球闻名，每一道甜品的背后都有唯美的故事。意式奶冻就是把煮熟的奶油再冷冻的意思。厨房里飘着香草和奶油的香气，当奶冻从模具中脱落时，显得柔软而晶莹，搭配蓝莓酱和杏仁饼，在视觉上很诱人，吃起来酸甜可口，心中充满着愉悦。 My Comment: Italian desserts and ice cream are popular around the world. It is said that there is a beautiful story behind every dessert. Panna cotta is made from frozen “cooked cream”. The kitchen is filled with the fragrance of vanilla and cream, when panna cotta is taken out of the mold, it is round, soft and crystal. The thick blueberry jam and almond cookies make it tempting and bring sweetness and pleasure to people who are having it.

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2016 年 6 月 10 日 / June 10, 2016

Annvita English Tea Room

安薇塔英国茶屋

（Ann Chiang）广泛推广英国下午茶文化，从东方到西方，从英国又回到中国，在中国北京、上海、苏州、重庆、青岛、深圳、南京和加拿大多伦多等十几个城市相继开店。茶屋以英国“皇家蓝”为主色调，让人不禁联想到蓝宝石和贵族，凸显了纯正的英式风格，就像童话世界的糖屋，有着令人雀跃的色彩。当你品尝不同口感、芬芳飘香的花茶时，那一抹淡淡的颜色，或是漂起的一片花瓣，清香与回甘，让人陶醉其中。英国高级骨瓷的质感和做工，令你爱不释手。唯有这骨瓷的茶具与飘逸的茶融为一体，再搭配英式手工饼干，闲散、浪漫、时尚与慢生活形成了美丽的画面。多伦多安薇塔英国茶屋的店主是位年轻的哥哥，他叫金泽语（Kim），22 岁大学毕业后开始创业。2014 年情人节，他在上海发现了安薇塔茶屋，随后把连锁店从中国开到了多伦多。

Annvita English Tea Room I went to London when I was in my fifth grade, and my only impression of British food was sandwich and potato. My gourmet journey included a visit

安薇塔英国茶屋

to my idol Gordon Ramsay’s Michelin restaurant in Britain and tasting his dishes. Because my summer vacation was quite limited, I did not get a chance

在我的计划中有对英国餐厅的采访，很想去英国品尝我的偶像戈登· 拉姆齐

to eat at his restaurant. So I visited

（Gordon Ramsay）做的菜。小学五年级时，我去英国伦敦，唯一的印象就是吃三明治和

Annvita English Tea Room at the end of

土豆。由于时间关系，无法去英国了，心中有些遗憾。在英国的餐饮文化中，下午茶很有特色，因此，我找到了安薇塔英国茶屋（Annvita English Tea Room），在学期学习结束后回中国前的一个夏日采访了它。中国茶如国画般沉稳内敛，英国茶如油画般色彩斑斓。英国茶虽不如中国茶历史悠久，但它的口感让你展开想象。下午茶如同一门综合的艺术，包括茶匙与茶杯的比例，茶杯与茶盘的风格，桌花与茶巾的搭配，茶汤在茶杯中的幻影，点心的温度与口感，音乐的节奏等。一杯下午茶，充分体现了女主人的品位与修养。安薇塔英国茶屋的店名源自英国女文学家弗吉尼亚 · 伍尔芙《一间自己的房间》： “女人要写作，你需要有钱和一间自己的房间。” 安薇塔英国茶体系是英国茶领域及下午茶文化潮流的领导者，创办人之一安女士

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my summer vacation, where I got to try a uniquely British cuisine and tradition – the afternoon tea. Chinese tea is as profound as traditional Chinese painting while English tea is as colorful as an oil painting. Even though English tea might not have as long a history as Chinese tea, the taste is beyond your imagination and inspires unlimited possibilities. Afternoon tea is a synthetic art – the position of teaspoon and teacup, the style of tea set, the setup

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东方佳人茶

Pink Beauty Tea

乌龙茶本是半发酵茶，在经过晒、炒、焙的加工后，色泽乌黑，香醇而回甘。东方佳人茶以乌龙茶为基础，添加了玫瑰花瓣、玫瑰花蕾、椰子脆片、橙皮、菠萝粒、蔓越莓、石榴籽，味道清淡，不失果香，淡淡的香味像空气中弥漫着的雾，推开迷雾，让人回味。女士们很喜欢这款茶，是这里的热销饮品。东方佳人玫瑰茶是将玫瑰果露加入东方佳人茶中一起冲泡，香味四溢的东方佳人奶茶是将香醇的牛奶浸着茶叶一起煮沸。 Oolong is half yeasted tea, after drying, frying and baking, its color becomes black and it smells aromatic and sweet. This kind of tea is based on oolong, it adds rose petals, rose buds, coconut chips, dried orange skin, diced pineapple, raspberry and pomegranate seed in it. The flavor of this tea is light with the aroma of fruit, it is like a fog surrounding you and bringing you contentedness. Pink Beauty rose tea adds rose dew in the original Pink Beauty tea, and the aromatic Pink Beauty milk tea is boiled with milk.

of tablecloth and napkin, the shadow of tea in the cup, the temperature and taste of desserts and the music tempo – all reflect the hostess’ taste, status and education. The name “Annvita Tea Room” comes from a famous masterpiece, A Room of One’s Own by English writer, Virginia Woolf. In her work, she said “a woman must have money and a room of her own if she is to write fiction”. The Annvita English Tea Company is the leader and expert in the business of English afternoon tea. One of its founders, Ann Chiang, aims to enlarge the popularity of English afternoon

红宝石茶

Pomegranate Tea

这款茶汤红润似红宝石般，故得名。它以红茶为基础，加入了石榴花、蔓越莓、枸杞、玫瑰果皮、木槿花、矢车菊花瓣，还加入了被称为“神果”的瓜拉纳。它是巴西的“国饮”，富

tea from west to east and from Britain to China. She opened several chain stores in Beijing,

含多种微量元素，营养价值高。红宝石茶口感丰

Shanghai, Suzhou, Chongqing, Qingtao, Shenzhen, Nanjing and Toronto.

富，花果香浓郁，夏季时可以品尝到红宝石茶冷

The main color of the tea room is royal blue like a shining sapphire in the sky. It is noble

饮，里面添加了蜂蜜和糖，更加香甜迷人。

and highlights the traditional British style. It is lively and colorful like a candy house in a fairytale story. When you drink the floral tea of different tastes and fragrance, the light color, the floating

Because the color of this tea is ruby, so it can also be

petal, its smell and aftertaste mesmerize you. You will love the quality and handcraft of the

called “ruby tea”. This tea uses black tea with pomegranate

English porcelain here, which suits their tea very much. You can also drink tea while eating their handmade biscuits and enjoy this leisured, romantic and chic lifestyle.

flower, raspberry, medlar, rose fruit skin, hibiscus and cornflower petal. A magic drink called “Guanara” is also added inside, it is Brazil’s national drink and rich in trace

The owner of this Annvita Tea Room is Zeyu Jin (Kim). He started his own business when

element and nutrition. The taste of this tea is multiple, and it

he graduated from the university at 22 years of age. He happened to run into Annvita Tea Room

contains an abundant fragrance of fruit and flower. During the

on the 2014 Valentine’s Day in Shanghai and was very interested in it. Later, he boldly cooperated with them and opened a chain store in Toronto.

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

summer, this drink is highly recommended, honey and sugar are added to make it even sweeter and more charming.

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味噌牛肉

Miso Beef Taco

味噌牛肉的灵感来源于厨艺界的大师戈

Mini Cucumber Sandwich

在白面包吐司表面涂抹一层黄油、奶

登 · 拉姆齐，他将牛肉最嫩滑的部分切成小条

油、奶酪，然后均匀地放上两层用盐、糖、

放在红味噌酱和绍兴花雕酒中腌 2 ～ 4 天。

黑胡椒、苹果醋腌制的小黄瓜，再盖一层

腌好后的牛肉条用大火煎至外焦里嫩，放在

白面包吐司，去边，切成任意形状，做成

薯片上，上面淋蛋黄酱和芥末。将大白菜叶

黄瓜三明治。奶油和面包的搭配永远是那

子切丝，用日本白醋、芝麻油拌好，撒在牛

么和谐！黄瓜微脆，酸酸的味道很突出，

肉上。薯片的香脆混合了芥末、蛋黄酱和酸

刺激你的味蕾。

酸的大白菜，再加上牛肉的酱香，酸味和芥末的辣味激发牛肉的新鲜及融合的口感。 The inspiration for this dish comes from Gordon Ramsay. He cuts the most tender part of beef into slices, then pickles them in red miso and Shaoxing rice wine for 2-4 days. Fry the pickled beef until it is welldone outside and tender inside. Put it on chips and spread mayonnaise and mustard on top. Cut cabbage into shreds, mix them with Japanese white vinegar and sesame oil and put them on top of the beef. This dish combines crispy chips, mustard, mayonnaise, sour cabbage with smooth soy beef – the sourness and spiciness highlight the freshness and smoothness of the beef.

牛油果迷你塔丁

黄瓜三明治

Avocado on Mini Baguette

这是法国夏日特别流行的一道小食。将牛油果的果肉碾碎，加入青葱末、盐、1 勺酸奶油拌匀。将法国长棍面包切片，刷上橄榄油，撒少许孜然粉，涂上拌好的牛油果泥，再放两颗蓝莓。牛油果泥似蛋黄的口感，搭配面包，柔软与韧劲、果香与面包香气、青葱与孜然的味道都非常奇妙，若再来一杯爽口的冷饮，真是惬意极了！

Spread butter, cream, cheese on the white sandwich and place two layers of pickled cucumber, which is marinated with salt, sugar, black pepper and apple vinegar. Then put another piece of sandwich on top, cut the brinks and the mini cucumber sandwich is done. It is a perfect combination of cream and sandwich. The pickled cucumbers are crispy and sour – it is the soul of this dish and can arouse your appetite.

香酥鸡

Crispy Chicken on Toast

将鸡胸肉切片，加入黄姜粉、蒜粉、咖喱粉、盐、鸡蛋腌制，然后裹上面包糠炸至金黄。用切割机将白面包吐司切成与鸡胸肉大小的形状，撒少许盐，放上酥鸡酱、鸡胸肉片、番茄丁、香菜。腌制的鸡胸肉很入味，

Avocado on mini baguette is a popular dish

经油炸后外酥里嫩。白面包吐司吸收了油脂，

in French summer. Pick out the avocado flesh,

酥鸡酱味道咸香，番茄丁增加了清爽的口感。

smash it with a fork, then stir it with chive, salt and one spoon of sour cream. Cut the baguette into oblong slices, drizzle with olive oil and a little cumin powder. Put the avocado cream on mini baguette and place two blueberries on top. The feeling of smashed avocado is like egg yolk, when eating it with baguette, you can feel its tenderness and toughness, the fragrance of fruit and bread, and the taste of chive and cumin at the same time. It is a magical chemical reaction, it will taste even better if

Cut the chicken breast into slices, whisk it with turmeric, onion, curry, salt and egg. Cover it with breadcrumbs and fry it until it is lightly browned. Cut the toast into the same size as the chicken breast, spread a little salt and put chicken sauce, chicken breast, diced tomato and parsley on top. The marinated chicken breast is crunchy outside and tender inside. The toast absorbs the oil and becomes salted with the chicken sauce. The diced tomato adds fresh flavor in it.

you eat it with a cool drink.

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My Comment: The above four refreshments were made by me under the chef’s instruction. It uses some Chinese

小胖点评

spices with fresh ingredients, simple skills and attractive appearance. They taste yummy with fruit tea. I not only like the design of this tea room, but also the refreshments

以上四款茶点是我在大厨的指导下制作的，其中融入了东方的元素。食材新鲜，操作简单，外观精美，非常适合搭配果茶。我很喜欢安薇塔英国茶屋，室内设计、茶点、英国骨瓷等都给我带来了清新的感觉。我坐在窗边，慢慢品尝不同果香味的茶，唇齿间留有余香；欣赏手中的英国骨瓷茶具，做工精细，外形美观；品尝自己做的茶点，不同食材的搭配创造出奇妙的口感；享受着阳光和生活，度过了很充实的一个下午。

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

and English porcelain here, which all gives me a familiar feeling. I sat by the window and tasted different kinds of fruit tea, its smells lasted so long in the mouth. I drank while looking at the gorgeous teacup and plate in my hand, both were so polished and delicate. And I tasted the dishes that I made just now, the different combinations brought multiple tastes to me. What a wonderful afternoon!

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New York 美

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繁华的纽约，美食的盛宴 Prosperous New York, Fabulous Feast

美国东濒大西洋，西临太平洋，北靠加拿大，南接墨西哥及墨西哥湾。美国是一个高度发达的国家，也是一个多民族的移民国家，融合了世界各地的种族、文化，这使美国的食物也别具特色。美国是当今世界上烹饪方法最具活力的国家之一，也是世界上烹饪教育普及程度最高的国家之一，培育了很多出类拔萃的餐饮人才。美国人将新概念注入烹饪料理，把饮食文化与日常生活结合起来，创造了许多融合性的美食，把烹饪艺术推向了一个新境界。我盼望去美国寻找美食、品尝美食已经很久了。提前两个月预约到纽约著名的餐厅后，2016 年 3 月春假，我和多伦多卡门牛扒房的主厨刘奇量哥哥、蔡嘉颖姐姐踏上了前往美国纽约的美食之路。在美国，我们参观和体验了世界著名的米其林三星让－乔治（Jean - Georges）和本质餐厅（Per Se）、米其林一星百年牛排馆彼得 · 卢格（Peter Luger Steak House）、纽约排名前十的圣安赛姆牛排馆（St.Anselm）、纽约联合广场的绿色集市（Union Square Greenmarket）、切尔西市场（Chelsea Market）、日本奇卡美味甜品店（ChikaLicious）、纽约第一汉堡奶昔小站（Shake Shack）、博多一风堂拉面（Ippudo）、高桥深夜拉面（Takashi），各种味道在我的记忆中回味无穷。寒风中，我们频繁地乘地铁按行程从一家餐厅到另一家餐厅。如此紧凑的时间，让我很兴奋。我的胃和味蕾得到了满足。这一路的故事、欢声笑语，令我终生难忘。

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

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繁华的纽约，美食的盛宴

The eastern part of the United States is close to the Atlantic, the western side is near the

me in New York. They taught me a lot about Western cuisine along the way, and we visited the

Pacific, the northern is next to Canada and the southern is beside Mexico and the Gulf of Mexico.

well-known Michelin Three-Star Restaurants – Jean-Georges and Per Se, Michelin One-Star

The United States is a developed nation populated by immigrants that came to this country.

Peter Luger Steak House with over a hundred years’ history, New York top ten steak house St

Different nations, cultures and foods blend here to create a new style of American cuisine.

Anselm, New York No.1 hamburger Shake Shack, Japanese ChikaLicious Dessert Bar, Chelsea

American cuisine is one of the liveliest cuisines in the world. It also has the top and most widely

Market, Union Square Greenmarket, Ippudo Ramen and Takashi Ramen. All of them left a deep

spread cuisine and cooking education. It cultivates a lot of talented chefs, who inject new ideas

impression in my memory.

into food and try to combine the culture of cuisine with daily life. Cuisine has no boundary and the art of cuisine is being pushed to the next stage. I dreamed I would go to the United States and seek gourmet food for such a long time and it has finally come true. At the start of my New York gourmet journey, I booked the most popular

We walked from one restaurant to another in the freezing wind, time was limited, yet I was so excited and enjoyed every part of it. We went wild, my stomach and appetite had never been so inspired before. We talked and laughed all the way, this memory would be engraved in my heart forever…

New York restaurants two months in advance. On the spring vacation in March 2016, Qiliang Liu and Jiaying Cai, who are the chefs at Carmen’s Steak House, started a gourmet journey with

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2016 年 3 月 10 日 / March 10, 2016

Michelin Three-Star Restaurant – Jean-Georges

历改变了他对烹饪的看法，法式菜肴在他的手中发生了很大变化。他将传统的菜肴与米其林三星餐厅 —— 让 - 乔治

香料结合起来，创造出强烈的异域风味，这一举动在餐饮界“刮”起了一阵革新的风潮。一个 29 岁的主厨，开业仅 3 个月时间就使这间餐厅荣获《纽约时报》四星好评，入选由詹姆斯 · 比尔德基金会颁发的最佳新餐厅和最杰出厨师大奖，随后又获得米其林三星、全球排名前 50 的餐厅等荣誉，这一切都证明了他的实力与魅力。他在纽约、洛杉矶、伦敦、巴黎和上海等城市共拥有 20 多家高级餐厅，在他的心目中，“烹饪是他一生的爱好”。 2016 年 3 月 10 日下午两点，我穿着西装，系着领带，无比兴奋地走进了这家世界著名的米其林三星餐厅。餐厅高大的落地窗，可以观赏中央公园和远处喧闹的街景。挑高的天花板，雅致的吊灯，银灰色的皮椅，低调中透露着奢华。当一道道摆盘精美、颜色鲜艳、很多我叫不出名字的香料、从未感知过的美味呈现在我的眼前时，我非常激动。走进餐厅的厨房，厨具干净、整洁，工作人员忙中有序，我与厨师来了个近距离的合影。我渐渐融入了餐厅美好的氛围中，聆听着舒缓的音乐，尽情地享受着每道菜的味道，感觉像春天的阳光洒了进来，是海的味道，是大自然的清新，是我对生活、对美食的热爱。

米其林三星餐厅 —— 让－乔治

Michelin Three-Star Restaurant – Jean-Georges Michelin restaurants are honored and recommended by the prestigious French Michelin

米其林是历史悠久的专门评点餐饮行业的法国权威鉴定机构。20 世纪初，米其林

Company. In 1900, the founder of Michelin Company published a restaurant and hotel guide and a tour guide, the former one is red and the later one is green. Soon, the Red Guide was widely

轮胎公司推出了饭店指南和旅游指南，前者为红皮书，后者为绿皮书。不过后来红皮

spread and won praise in the restaurant business; later, it became the authority in restaurant

书更红，逐渐成了一本著名的餐馆评价书，被美食家奉为至宝。米其林每年雇佣一群

recommendation and highly valued among gastronomists. The Michelin Company will send

隐藏身份的调查员去各个餐厅吃饭并考察餐厅的各个方面，然后给餐厅评定星级，最高为三星，最低为一星。

undercover gastronomists to have meals in restaurants and rate them based on a star system. For those standout restaurants, Michelin will give restaurants a numbers of stars – the highest being three stars, followed by two and then one.

米其林三星餐厅让－乔治（Jean-Georges）位于纽约中央公园前面的特朗普国际酒店

Jean-Georges Restaurant is located on the first floor of Trump International Hotel in front

一楼。餐厅以传统的顶级法式料理和一“位”难求的热门程度而闻名，明星和商人是这

of Central Park. It is famous for its high-class French cuisine and difficulty in booking. Celebrities

里的常客。品味精致菜肴，感受法式浪漫奢华，这里成为纽约考量身份的名利场。作为世界上最负盛名的厨师之一，让－乔治被称为“法国现代烹饪界的奇葩”。

and businessmen come here frequently. They taste fine cuisine, experience French romance and elegance, which are like a vanity fair in New York. Jean-Georges Vongerichten is one of the best-known chefs in the world, he was awarded

他出生于法国一个热爱美食的家庭。经过法国南部烹饪大师路易斯 · 奥奇尔（Louis

Michelin Three-Star Chef and named “The Contemporary French Cuisine Legend” because of

Outhier）的训练之后，1980 年到泰国曼谷当主厨，在此，他接触了柠檬草、姜、辣椒

his everlasting creation. Jean-Georges was born in a food loving family in France, where learned

等香料。后来，他又去了新加坡、中国香港和日本。正是这段在亚洲工作和旅行的经

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

Western cuisine from Louis Outhier, a famous chef in South France. In 1980, he went to work as

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黄油和餐前面包

Bread and Butter

餐前 5 分钟，侍者送来了黄油和面包。黄油软、滑、细腻，有丝绸般的感觉。裸麦粗粮面包散发着浓郁的香气，有嚼劲，外表酥脆，里面柔软。特别是酸面包，似中国馒头的老面团发酵出来的，带着浓浓的酵母酸味，面包有很多小洞，粗糙而富有弹性。 Bread and butter are usually served five minutes before meal. The butter is soft and smooth like silk and the rye and grain bread disperses strong aroma, it is chewy outside and soft inside. The sour bread is like Chinese bun made from the yeasted paste, the taste of sourness comes from the leaven. During yeasting, there will be many holes inside the bread, which makes it coarse yet al dente.

chef in Bangkok. It was in Thailand that he learned about Asian ingredients like cedronella, ginger and chili. Later, he went to work in Singapore, Hong Kong and Japan. During his work and journey in Asia, his idea of cuisine changed, and this influenced his style of French cuisine. He combined traditional Western cuisine with different spices and created exotic flavor. His creation was like

鸡蛋鱼子酱

Egg Caviar

这是一道很有名的菜。鸡蛋壳敲个洞，洞口朝上放入开水中，去掉蛋壳里的一层薄膜。

a tornado in the Western cuisine industry. He opened his own restaurant in New York when he

将蛋液倒出，用黄油小火慢煮，加入盐、胡椒

was only 29 years old, and after three months, his restaurant was awarded Four Star by the New

粉调味，不停地搅拌让蛋液保持松软，最后将

York Times. He was also nominated as the owner of “The Best New Restaurant” and “The Most

蛋液倒回蛋壳中。把奶油充分打匀，加入伏特

Talented Chef” by James Beard Foundation. Other awards would soon follow, like the Michelin

加酒、柠檬汁、少许辣椒粉、盐搅拌均匀后抹

Three-Star Restaurant, “Top 50 Restaurants in the World” and many others. This demonstrated

在蛋壳口，再放上顶级鱼子酱。选一个鸭子脚

his capability and individuality. Jean-George owns more than 20 high-class restaurants in New

形的容器，将鸡蛋放在上面。

York, Los Angeles, London, Paris and Shanghai. Cuisine is a lifelong career in his eyes. At 2pm on March 10, 2016, I put on my suit and tie and walked into this world-class restaurant and started our gourmet journey exuberantly. Jean-Georges restaurant has large French windows that allow you to view Central Park and parts of the city through it. The ceiling is high with a beautiful chandelier hanging there, chairs are made of leather in silver color, everything has a low profile yet you can still feel its sumptuousness. When colorful and fine dishes were served in front of me with so many ingredients that I could

鱼子酱被称作黑色黄金，取自成年的母鲟鱼，价格昂贵。在美食家的心目中，又以春季的鱼子酱为最佳！黑色鱼子酱晶莹剔透，舀一勺送入口中，用牙齿将鱼卵轻轻咬破，淡淡的大海的味道瞬间弥漫在嘴里。用勺子将鱼子酱、奶油、蛋液搅拌在一起，咸味和鲜味在奶油的衬托下完

not recognize and had never tasted, I was very excited. When I walked into the kitchen, I could

美地呈现。温度与质感，柔软与松散，光滑、甘

see clean and tidy kitchen utensils laying there, while the staff were busy putting things in order. It

美、浓郁、奶香，相互碰撞，舌尖上的体验。

was great honor for me to take photographs with these chefs. I enjoyed being surrounded by the

听说迈克尔 · 杰克逊很喜欢这道菜，他与

gentle atmosphere, leisure music and tasting every dish slowly. I felt like tasting the sunshine in

让－乔治的私交甚多，鸡蛋鱼子酱是他们建立

spring, the sea, the nature – everything made me love life and food even more.

友谊的一道菜。

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Egg caviar is the famous dish at Jean-Georges, knock a little hole on top of the eggshell, put it in hot water, then remove the membrane inside the egg. Pour the egg liquid out, fry it with butter over low heat, add salt and pepper and whisk until it softens. Finally, put the egg liquid back in the shell. Whip cream with vodka,

蘑菇、野菜沙拉配香草松子酱 Market Mushroom Salad with Wild Greens and Herbal Pine Nut Dressing

lemonade, a little chili powder and salt. Wipe cream on top of the eggshell, layer top caviar on it, and put the whole egg on a duck-foot-shaped container, which will make the egg stand. Caviar is called “Black Gold”, only adult sturgeon’s eggs are qualified to become caviar, so its price is really high. To many gastronomists, the best caviar is those laid in spring. It is translucent and when you put it in your mouth, you can first break it with your teeth, and then you will feel it exploding in your mouth. Whisk caviar with cream and egg liquid, which can give you a multiple taste – salted and mushy – everything matches so much, its temperature, quality, softness, smoothness, thickness and scent of milk all jump into each other, it

这道菜用了松茸、蟹味菇、花菇 3 种蘑菇来搭配新鲜蔬菜，是一道非常简单的沙拉。它的亮点是松子酱与蘑菇的结合，清爽而香气四溢，吃到了食材新鲜的味道。

is like a ballet on your tongue. Someone told me that this dish was Michael Jackson’s favorite, he was a good friend of Jean-Georges, and this dish might be the bridge of their friendship.

This dish uses truffle, nameko and shiitake with fresh vegetables. It is a simple salad, and the combination of herbal pine nut dressing and mushroom highlights the whole dish. It is fresh and aromatic, you can taste the original flavor of the ingredients.

蛋黄吐司和鱼子酱配莳萝 Toasted Egg Yolk, Caviar and Herbs

香煎扇贝配焦糖花椰菜和酸豆葡萄干酱恒温 134 ℉慢煮鸡蛋 45 分钟，然后去掉蛋白，留下蛋黄。将法式吐司面包片切

Diver Scallops, Caramelized Cauliflower, Caper-raisin Emulsion

成小长方形，用黄油煎至金黄、香脆，把鸡蛋黄放入两片面包中间。面包上再放上满满的一勺鱼子酱与莳萝叶。一口咬下去，煎后的面包非常酥脆，滑嫩的蛋黄如流动的岩浆，蛋黄的香醇与鱼子酱的咸味在舌尖上“舞动”。 Cook the egg at 134°F for 45 minutes,

用黄油将扇贝煎至变色，搭配焦糖花椰菜及酸豆葡萄干做成的酸豆葡萄酱汁。煎后的扇贝，表面薄

remove the egg white and keep the yolk.

脆，里面象牙白的肉质鲜嫩无比，

Cut the French toast into little rectangle, fry

略带咸味，富有弹性。焦糖花椰菜

it with butter until it becomes browned and crunchy. Put the yolk in the middle of the

的爽脆与扇贝的鲜嫩形成对比，最

toast, then place a spoonful of caviar and

妙的是酸甜汁的搭配，酸酸的口感，

some herbs on top. The fried toast is very

它让这道菜的香味、鲜味凸显出来，

crispy and the yolk is soft, when you bite them, the yolk spills out like an explosion

味道很棒！

of lava, and the smell of salted caviar and creamy yolk are dancing on your tongue.

Fry the fatty diver scallops with butter until it becomes browned. Mix it with caramelized cauliflower and caper-raisin emulsion. The seared scallops are crispy on the surface, its meat is ivory and soft inside, which tastes salted and elastic. The crispy cauliflower and the tender scallop are a perfect match, and the most surprising part is the sweet and sour sauce, which emphasizes the fragrance and freshness of this dish, it tastes wonderful!

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

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│西餐篇│

美国纽约篇

金枪鱼丝配牛油果 Yellowfin Tuna Ribbons, Avocado and Spicy Radish, Ginger Marinade

把新鲜的黄鳍金枪鱼切条，配上牛油果、水萝卜片、日本酱油、生姜汁和用多种香料制作的辣椒油。精致的摆盘是亮点，金枪鱼似红色的丝带在盘旋，又像红色的蜗牛，这一抹红色外有两片绿叶，起到画龙点睛的作用。新鲜的金枪鱼蘸少许酱汁，似日本的刺身，入口软绵、鲜嫩、甜美，细细品味，仿佛有一缕春天的阳光照了进来。 Cut the yellowfin tuna into slices and eat it with avocado, sliced radish, Japanese soy, ginger marinade and a little bit chili oil. These are all placed in an orderly fashion, the trace of the red chili oil is like a red ribbon, or an escargot wandering and winding in the plate. Two leaves set off the red color, which highlight the whole dish. Dip the yellowfin tuna with a little soy, it is like sashimi, so soft and sweet in mouth. The taste is so fresh and sweet that it will feel like a glimmer of sunshine in spring.

真鲷鱼生鱼片配法式面包 Madai Sashimi, Warm Truffle Toast and Chive

这道菜的食材包括真鲷鱼生鱼片、松

烤黑海鲈鱼配坚果、甜酸汁 Black Sea Bass Crusted with Nuts and Seeds, Sweet and Sour Juice

露蒜蓉黄油面包、橄榄油、新鲜松露、青葱芽。经过烘烤的面包吸收了松露和大蒜特有的浓郁的香气，真鲷鱼生鱼片浸着咖喱味的酱汁，外表似宝石晶莹剔透，味道很鲜美。新鲜的食材，在松露和酱汁的融合中发挥得淋漓尽致。 Mix the madai sashimi with warm truffle toast, olive oil, fresh truffle and chive. The baked toast has already absorbed the aroma of truffle and garlic. Dip the madai in curry sauce, it is shining like a gem. The freshness of

将黑海鲈鱼刷上坚果、香料、芝麻粉后香煎，配上番茄和用黄糖加工的酸甜汁。这道菜的亮点是将多种香料和坚果烤香后打成粉末，刷在鱼皮上再煎，这样能让坚果和香料的香气与黑海鲈鱼更好地融合，鱼皮表面香脆，鱼肉鲜嫩。坚果和香料的香气与酸甜汁一起，赋予这道菜新的生命。 Wipe nut, spices and sesame powder on the black sea bass and fry it with tomato and sweet and sour juice. The main role of this dish is the powder made from different spices and fried nuts, wipe the powder on the fish skin; when frying, the smell of fish and spices mix perfectly. The fish skin is crispy and its meat is tender. The fragrance of nut powder, spices and sweet and sour juice inject new life into it.

the ingredients is upgraded by the truffle and the sauce.

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

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│西餐篇│

美国纽约篇

2016 年 3 月 10 日 / March 10, 2016

Michelin Three -Star Restaurant – Per Se

的主餐区，棕灰色相间的座椅，是法式古典与现代奢华的融合。餐厅需提前一个月预米其林三星餐厅 —— 本质

约，昂贵的价格与尊贵的服务，让你充分享受米其林三星的盛宴。

Michelin Three-Star Restaurant – Per Se Per Se means “by or in itself”, and is located on the fourth floor of Time Warner Center near New York Central Park. Its flagship store on the American east coast is owned by Thomas Keller, who is a pioneer in advocating high-class fine dining service for nearly 20 years. Thomas Keller never received any professional cooking training. It was his mother who passed on her cooking skills to him. Per Se opened in 2004, it combines modern American cuisine with French cuisine, its meticulous service and refined gourmet food are the staple throughout the United States. It won Michelin Three Star in the initial issue of 2005 Michelin Guide , was ranked sixth in“2012 World’s 50 Best Restaurants”, and was one of the best restaurants in 2012 Elite Traveler Magazine . It was awarded the best New York restaurant by The New York Times , and Thomas Keller himself also won the Life Achievement Award. It is no wonder that he is the pioneer and master in highclass cuisine in North America. There is a saying, if you do not have meals in Per Se, never say you have been to New York. Walking through the corridor decorated by flower and wood, you can see the symbolic blue gate, it is quiet and solemn. The glass door next to it is the actual entrance, it is magical and seems to tell

米其林三星餐厅 —— 本质

you there is a tasty feast behind it. As you enter, the spacious lobby is decorated with an elegant bar and a transparent wine cellar; soft lighting reflects the grand tables. The main dining area is filled with mahogany furniture giving it an elegant atmosphere that combines classical French and modern luxury. We needed to book the restaurant at least a month in advance, the costly price and the valued service

Per Se 的意思是“本质”。餐厅位于纽约中央公园附近的时代华纳中心的四楼，是

will allow you to fully enjoy the Michelin Three-Star feast.

推动美国近 20 年来高级餐饮发展的头号人物托马斯 · 凯勒（Thomas Keller）在美国东岸的旗舰店。托马斯 · 凯勒从未受过专业的厨艺训练，母亲传给了他好的技艺。餐厅于 2004 年开业，是新式美餐与法国菜的融合，以细致的服务和新奇的美食享誉美国。餐厅被 2005 年的首版纽约《米其林指南》评为三星，在 2012 年的“世界前 50 名最佳餐厅”中排名第 6，2012 年被《精英旅行者》杂志评为世界最棒餐厅之一，曾被《纽约时报》评选为纽约最佳餐厅。托马斯· 凯勒也获得了终身成就奖，成为北美高级餐饮界的领军人物。有一种说法： “来了纽约没去本质米其林三星餐厅吃饭，不要说你来过纽约。” 穿过门前花木、园艺装饰的门廊，看到餐厅那扇蓝色标志的大门，安静而凝重。旁边的玻璃门才是真正的入口，带着如此的神秘感，味觉的盛宴就此拉开了序幕。宽敞的大厅陈设着优雅的酒吧和透明的酒窖，柔和的灯光映照着华丽的餐桌，高低设计

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

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三文鱼塔塔蛋卷

美国纽约篇

Salmon Cornet

这道菜的创意来自冰淇淋蛋卷。将黄油、面粉、糖、

生蚝与珍珠

Oysters & Pearls

将西米放入牛奶中浸泡 1 小时后冲洗干净，

鸡蛋混合后放入烤箱烤制定型做成蛋卷。将新鲜三文鱼

再将西米放入 35% 的淡奶油和牛奶中，以中火

用快刀切成非常细小的丁，加干葱末、盐、胡椒粉混合

慢煮 12 分钟左右，然后让西米在锅中慢慢冷却

制成三文鱼塔塔。将红洋葱切末，用水冲洗除辣味，放

并吸收奶味。剥开生蚝，留下生蚝汁和生蚝肉。

入打发的奶油中混合成红洋葱奶油，放入蛋卷内，再把

将鸡蛋黄和生蚝汁在热水中快速打发，水温不

三文鱼塔塔挖成球状放在蛋卷上方，做成三文鱼塔塔蛋

宜过高，待成型后慢慢混入西米，用白醋和小

卷。它的造型十分可爱，外面裹了一张纸，方便客人拿

香葱调味并放在容器中。再放入生蚝，上面放

起它。烘烤过的蛋卷外皮香脆，三文鱼搭配淡奶油的味

1 勺俄罗斯鱼子酱。

道，新鲜、甜腻、柔嫩。

这道菜装入三层大小不同的白色瓷盘中，上面用闪亮的圆盖扣住，打开圆盖后，映入眼帘的是黑亮的颗粒饱满的鱼子酱，轻轻一咬，鱼子酱瞬间在口中“炸”开，

The idea of this dish comes from an ice cream cone. The cornet is made from butter, flour, sugar and egg and bake in oven. Cut fresh salmon into mini dices, add dried chive, salt and pepper in it. Cut red onion and wash it to get rid of its spicy taste. Add whipped cream and make red onion cream, and then put it inside the

味道极其鲜美。下面是生蚝和白色透明的西米露，鲜甜、细腻、浓香，呈现出清澈、圆润的口感。这是餐厅最著名的一道菜。

cornet. Scoop the salmon and put it on top and the salmon cornet is done. The cornet looks lovely. A piece of tissue is wrapped around the cornet to let guest pick it up easily. The cornet tastes crispy after roasting and the salmon with cream tastes fresh, sweet and tender.

Soak sago in milk for an hour and drain it, then pour in 35% light cream and milk and cook over low heat for about twelve minutes, leave it in the pot until it fully absorbs the milk. Lift the oyster shell, separate oyster juice from its flesh. Whip egg yolk and oyster juice above hot water but not boiling. Then slowly pour sago in it, add white vinegar and chive in the container. Put oyster in it and scoop some Russian caviar on top. The dish is plated on three layers of different sizes of white porcelain plates and covered with a shining

面包

Breads

round casing. When you open the casing, you can see the black and plump caviar piling there like a mountain. When you put it in your mouth, it explodes suddenly. Below is the oyster and white sago, which is sweet, delicate, aromatic and gives you a mellow taste. This is the most popular dish in the restaurant.

面包篮中有 4 种以酵母为特色的自制小面包及 2 种手工制作的黄油，圆形包、叶子形法包、椒盐面包、荞麦杂粮包和无盐有机黄油、含盐黄油。花瓣形器皿中装着 6 种盐，它们分别是法国顶级天然海盐“盐之花”，白色，圆润、柔和；法

夏威夷之心桃子沙拉 Hawaiian Hearts of Peach Palm and Panna Cotta

国灰盐，粗且易溶解；英国白色海盐，咸度强，不苦；美国夏威夷红玛瑙海盐，有矿物的味道；

这道菜的摆盘如一件精美的艺术品，让我眼前一

美国夏威夷黑色火山盐，咸中微辣；美国蒙大拿

亮。加州大黄、腌芹菜梗、希腊酸奶、夏威夷桃子，

州粉红岩盐，细且易溶解。

刀工精细，造型漂亮，如夏威夷海边穿着彩裙的少女，享受着阳光和沙滩，非常漂亮的一道菜。

There are four different homemade bread and two kinds of butter served inside the little basket – they are circle bread, French leaf-shaped bread, pepper bread, buckwheat and grain bread, salt-free organic butter and salted butter. A petal-shaped plate contains six different salt, which are white and tender French top natural sea salt “Flower Salt”, coarse and dissolvable French gray salt, British white sea salt, Hawaiian carnelian sea salt, spicy Hawaiian black volcano salt, and fine and easily soluble Montana pink cave salt.

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

The design of this dish makes me stunning. California rhubarb, pickled celery stem, Greece yogurt and Hawaiian peach – fine ingredients, sophisticated cutting skill and brilliant decoration make this dish vivid and artistic, it is like a young lady wearing colorful dress and walking near the Hawaiian sea, enjoying the sunshine and the beach.

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水煮哈德森鸭肝

美国纽约篇

Hudson Valley Moulard Duck Foie Gras

低温慢煮羊柳配小茴香根橄榄酱 Elysian Fields Farm’s Lamb Rib-eye with Persillade

因鹅的繁殖能力较差，养肥率比较低，逐渐用鸭肝代替鹅肝。低温慢煮法式鸭肝，鸭肝光滑、细腻，无颗粒感。点睛之笔，搭配的小红菜头、细碎的酱菜、法式小芥末，摆盘漂亮、清新，更加衬托鸭肝的口感和色泽。

将加州橘郡农场的羊柳低温烹煮 2 小时后，搭配波尔多红酒酱汁，羊肉外皮上色，内

真空低温烹饪：将食物真空包装，或用保鲜膜密实包装，然后放入料理机以

部软嫩、粉红，羊肉看似半生，却没有膻味，

149 ℉左右的低温烹饪食物，不同食物所用的温度和时间有所不同。真空低温烹饪

准确的火候使其有均匀的熟度，软烂、醇香、

需要恒温式低温料理机和真空密封机两台机器。

鲜嫩多汁。配上有机花菜、葵花籽泥、苏丹那

Because the fecundity and fat rate are low in goose, goose has gradually been taken over by duck liver now in restaurants. Cook the duck liver over low heat with vacuum

葡萄干、小茴香根橄榄酱，还有一种与藜麦相似的麦类，很健康的食材。烹饪的每个细节都处理得恰到好处。

drying cooking skill, the liver will be kept smooth, tender and with less grains. Put beetroot, pickled vegetables and French mustard in, which will make it prettier and fresher and highlight the taste and color of duck liver. Vacuum drying cooking skill means preserve food in a vacuum plastic bag, then put it in the cooking machine and cook it at 149°F. Different food needs different temperature and

Cook the Elysian Fields Farm’s lamb rib-eye for two hours in low temperature. Pour Bordeaux red wine sauce and color its skin, its inner part is pink and tender. The lamb rib-eye is medium done yet it has no strong lamb smell, and the perfect management of temperature makes it taste perfectly well. Mix it with organic cauliflower, sunflower seeds, Sultana raisins, fennel and olive sauce. A kind of healthy wheat similar to quinoa is put at the side. Every detail is perfect.

time, it needs two machines to make it, one is a homothermal cooking machine and the other is vacuum sealing machine.

萨蒙农场的猪脸肉炭烤太平洋鲜鲍配天使意大利面 Hawaiian Hearts of Peach Palm and Panna Cotta

Samoens Farm Pork Jowl

猪脸肉肉质较硬，很难料理，而这道菜的处理方式有些不同。首先猪脸肉用盐、胡椒粉、各种香料腌制 2 天，再冲洗、沥干，用炭火将猪脸肉烤至金黄，然后真空低温烹煮 36 小时以上。搭配土豆碎、小红萝卜片、蔬菜沙拉、法式红酒醋汁。红色

用炭火高温烤制新鲜鲍鱼，保持鲍鱼鲜嫩的原味。久煮熬制虾的浓汤是这道菜的“灵魂”，虾的甜味和鲜味慢慢渗透在汤中。新鲜的手工意大利面加入了蔬菜汁后呈绿色，意大利面韧性十足，和鲍鱼一起蘸着虾的汤汁吃，味道极其鲜美，让人感觉像一位少年，生机勃勃，充满活力。

的肉上配几片小红萝卜片和绿色的叶子，猪脸肉酥软、浓香，能吃到猪肉丝的质感，味道棒极了！ Pork jowl is tough and hard to deal with. However, Per Se uses a very different skill to make this dish. First, marinate pork jowl with salt, pepper and different spices

The sea scallop is shipped from Hawaii by air, broil it over high

for two days; then wash it with cold water and make

temperature on charcoal fire, the temperature must be managed very

it dry, broil it on the charcoal until its color becomes

well to preserve the original freshness of the sea scallop. The soul of

browned and cook it in vacuum machine for more than

this dish is the thick shrimp soup, it takes really a long time to let the

36 hours. Put diced potato, sliced radish, vegetable

freshness and sweetness of the shrimp permeating in the soup. Mix

salad and French red wine vinegar at the side. Red

handmade spaghetti with green vegetable juice, it becomes green and

meat suits nicely with sliced radish and green leaves.

chewy. Dip the spaghetti and sea scallop in the shrimp soup, it tastes

The pork jowl is crispy and savory, you can feel the

fresh and delicious like a young adult, lively and energetic.

texture of pork and the smell of charcoal, all of which makes it delicious.

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美国纽约篇

地中海式香煎海鲈鱼

柑橘果香奶酪冻

Sautéed Fillet of Mediterranean Lubina

Citrusy Goat Cheese Panna Cotta

这道菜的鱼是用鱼线钓的，鱼咬钩的同时，不断地摆动身体，使鱼肉更加鲜美。

白色的山羊奶酪配橘子、柚子、草莓

香煎海鲈鱼的外皮焦香而肉质鲜嫩，搭配黄油煮的青豆和东京白萝卜，这道菜的

明胶冻、薄荷叶、糖花，淡淡的奶酪不会盖

“精髓”在于用牛骨髓、波尔多红酒、小洋葱、浓缩牛骨高汤熬煮的浓稠酱汁，味道

住水果的味道，而是烘托出水果的酸味、甜

醇厚，非常有层次感。做这道菜时，准确地掌握煎鱼的火候是关键，若锅的温度太

味，口感淡雅、清新。因菜单上没有介绍

高，鱼的形状就会被破坏。

这道菜的信息，我给它起了“柑橘果香奶酪冻”的名字。

The Mediterranean Lubina is fished by thread instead of net, because when fish is hooked, the

White goat cheese with citrusy, shaddock, strawberry gelatin, mint and icing, the light smell of cheese will

struggling will make its flesh fresher and tasty. The

not cover the smell of fruit; instead, it stresses the sourness and sweetness of fruit and let it taste fresh and

fillet tastes crispy and savory and the soul of this dish

natural. As its name does not mention in the menu, I give it a name as the above.

is the thick soup. Put butter fried beans and Tokyo radish at the side of sautéed fillet, cook beef bone marrow, Bordeaux red wine, little onion and butter together to make highly condensed beef bone soup. It is creamy and profuse. The management of heat

松露巧克力配香草冰淇淋

when frying the fillet is the key to make this dish. If

Black Truffle Chocolate with Vanilla Ice Cream

the temperature is too high, the shape of the fillet will be broken.

外面微焦的酥皮是已经被烤得半熔化之后凝固而成的棉花糖，底层是烘烤的小麦碎屑和一颗松露巧克力，苦中有甜，口感丝滑。薄荷香草冰淇淋清凉、爽口。

黑椒羊奶塔

Tomme of Aydius Goat

The parched crust is the solidification of the broiled candy floss. The bottom is roasted wheat crumbs and a truffle chocolate, it tastes bittersweet and silky with a chocolate fragrance. The mint vanilla ice cream is cool and fresh.

在花形黄油塔皮中间挖一个洞，放入洋梨果酱和 2 片洋梨，边上是打发的固体状奶油和黑椒山羊奶酪，这道菜的“主角”是黑椒山羊奶酪，味道温和、柔软、醇香。奶酪是用山羊奶制成的，这些乳用羊只在夏日被挤奶，制作成熟期仅几个星期的新鲜干酪。 Dig a hole in the middle of the flowershaped butter tart paste, put European pear jam and two slices of pear in the middle, and put whipped cream and cheese at the side. The main role of this dish is tomme of Aydius goat, it is gentle, tender and sweet in the mouth. It is made from Aydius goat’s milk, they are milked only in summer because it is fresher and need less time.

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

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│西餐篇│

美国纽约篇

热情果果酱配巧克力蛋糕 Passion Fruit Puree Dark Chocolate Cake

黑巧克力蛋糕配奶油、黑巧克力片、热情果果酱，热情果的酸味、甜味与黑巧克力的味道融合在一起，细腻、香醇、口中回甘。每一勺都仿佛是一段故事，甜蜜又让人回味无穷。 Dark chocolate cake with cream, dark chocolate flakes and passion fruit puree, the sweet and sour flavor mixes with dark chocolate, it is exquisite and rich, and the sweetness comes after the bitterness. Every taste is like a story full of sweet memory, sweet and everlasting..

巧克力

Chocolate

几道菜之后，侍者端来一个漂亮的盒子，里面装有形状各异、不同口味的自制巧克力 —— 黑巧克力、牛奶巧克力、白巧克力等。两个小时的用餐，我们很难再吃

小胖点评夜幕降临。按照预约的时间，我们在晚上八点准时走进了这家奢华的米其林三星餐厅。餐厅的

下这么多巧克力了。侍者将巧克力装在两个咖啡色的盒子里，让我们带回去品尝。

理念是：“一顿美味佳肴，就像一段旅程，带你回味那些已经被遗忘的美好，并将带你去到任何你

我很喜欢咖啡色盒子的包装。至此，这场美食盛宴完美地结束了。

从未去过的远方！”

After dinner, the waiter held a lovely box, which contained different shapes and kinds of homemade chocolate – dark chocolate, milk chocolate, and white chocolate After eating for two hours, it was hard for us to finish so many chocolates. The waiter helped us put them in to two brown boxes so we could take it back home. I liked it very much and it was the perfect ending to the meal.

食物新鲜而精致，制作精湛而完美，口味清爽而丰富，慢慢品尝和享受美味的菜肴。服务员整齐的衣着，微笑的服务，随时为你更换冷却的面包和污浊的餐巾；看到桌上的面包屑立刻吸走；清晰地介绍每道菜的菜名，将每个细节体现到极致，让我看到了米其林三星餐厅的高品质服务。我在让 – 乔治餐厅品尝了午餐，在本质餐厅享用了晚餐，我在一天内见识了两家世界著名的米其林三星餐厅。前者让我体会到新式法餐的时尚感，后者让我看到了追求极致、精湛的烹饪技艺。我深深地体会到，一道精美的菜肴其“精髓”就是找出最佳的食材、高超的烹饪技艺、巧妙地搭配、注重细节、平和的心态、对烹饪极大的热情，将这些全部融入其中，给予菜肴新的生命，创造出精美的作品。 My Comment: Dusk fell, as we walked into this sumptuous Michelin Three-Star Restaurant at 8pm that I had booked. The idea of Per Se is that “a great meal is a kind of journey that returns you to the sources of pleasure you may have forgotten and takes you to places you have not been before”. The dishes were fresh and delicate, the cooking procedure was sophisticated and the taste was savory. Dishes were served one after another with different ingredients and colors, we ate slowly and enjoyed the meal very much. Waiters wore efficient, always had a smile and were ready to change cold bread and dirty napkins anytime; if there were breadcrumbs on the table, they would clean it immediately; they remembered the menu pretty well and could explain it to you clearly – every detail of the service showed the high quality service of a three-star restaurant. I had lunch at Jean-Georges and dinner at Per Se today, two world-class Michelin Three-Star restaurants. Jean-Georges let me experience modern French cuisine while Per Se made me see their sophisticated cooking skills and their requirement of perfection. Through this experience, I perceived that the essence of fine cuisine is to find the best ingredients, to have sophisticated skills, be meticulous with detail, possess a friendly attitude and a passion for cooking – combined they inject new life in the dishes and show the respect for food and cuisine, thus creating the art of cuisine.

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美国纽约篇

2016 年 3 月 11 日 / March 11, 2016

Michelin One-Star Restaurant – Peter Luger Steak House

餐厅选用的是美国农业部认证的顶级牛排，米其林一星 —— 彼得·卢格牛排馆

肉色、肥肉和瘦肉的比例、骨头等都是必须考虑的因素。其实，牛排不是用新鲜牛排烤制的，而是加了秘制调料放在地下室或通风处风干后再烘烤。晚餐只供应 T 骨牛排，一块三成熟的 T 骨牛排端上来后，侍者将它切成小块。牛排表面颜色微黑，闻起来有些焦香，里面的肉为桃红色，吃起来，外皮焦脆，鲜嫩多汁，咸、香。我特别喜欢烤得焦香的牛肉的味道，有着质朴的感觉。配菜是奶油菠菜泥和略带酸味的自制牛排酱，牛排酱是用流传了 100 多年的传统方法制作的，我第一次用牛排配菠菜泥来吃。若是第一次来这里，一定要尝尝纽约客牛排或带骨肋眼牛排、奶油菠菜和厚厚的烟熏培根。餐后附送的金币巧克力给了我小小的惊喜，有点像美国电影《淘金者》里的片段，在期待中开始，

米其林一星 —— 彼得·卢格牛排馆彼得· 卢格牛排馆（Peter Luger Steak House）1887 年成立，有 129 年的历史，连续

在惊喜中结束。一家餐厅的历史、文化也许很简单，但很多细节却深深地烙印在人们的记忆深处。

Michelin One-Star Restaurant – Peter Luger Steak House

28 年被评为纽约最好吃的牛排馆，走廊的墙上展示着不同年份获得的米其林一星的奖牌。餐厅里所有的侍者都是和蔼可亲的爷爷，满脸花白胡子的造型很有年代感，也成了这里的一道风景。入座后，老爷爷先端来了水、奶油、

Peter Luger Steak House was founded in 1887 and has a history of 129 years. It has been constantly awarded the best steak house in New York for the past 28 years. It is a Michelin OneStar Restaurant and their awards are hanging on the corridor wall. All the waiters here are seniors, they look nice and kind with an old-fashioned white beard, which forms a unique scene. The waiter first serves water, cream and a basket of bread. The color of the menu is light

一篮子面包。菜单印制在一张浅咖啡色的纸上，单色，很旧，如同烤制的牛排一样，朴实、简单。来这里的客人通常都会点一份长长的、硕大的烟熏培根，切得很厚，外皮颜色熏得发黑，切开后里面呈暗红色，肥瘦均匀，有韧性和油脂感。

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

brown, it is succinct and a bit worn like broiled steak, simple and unvarnished yet full of surprise. Guests usually order the long and thick smoked bacon here, the color of its skin is dark yet the inside is tender and keeps a good balance of fat and lean, it tastes al dente with a hint of bacon oil. The steak at Peter Luger is chosen from the top quality steak recognized by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), which considers elements like its color, fat and lean and bone. The steak is not broiled directly; instead, it is marinated with a homemade sauce and

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美国纽约篇

2016 年 3 月 11 日 / March 11, 2016

New York Top Ten Steak House – St．Anselm

纽约圣安赛姆牛排馆

纽约圣安赛姆牛排馆圣安赛姆牛排馆（St．Anselm），据说是纽约排名前十的牛排店。在寒冷的夜晚， dried in the cellar or an airy room. Only the porterhouse cut is served during dinner, it is done

我们一推开门，一股热浪和烤肉的香味就扑面而来，温暖而让人兴奋。黄色的灯光幽

to a perfect medium rare and served in a tomahawk style. The steak is brown and crispy on the

暗，感觉有点像酒吧，几束灯光和烤牛排燃烧的火光照亮着狭长的餐厅。我们临窗而

outside and pink inside, has a meaty fragrance, and is succulent. I like the smell of broiled beef,

坐，喝着苏打水，慢慢欣赏这间小巧、生意极好的牛排店。

which keeps the purity of American country and farm. The steak was served with a creamy spinach puree and a homemade steak sauce, which was made in a traditional method that is more than a hundred years old. This was my first time to eat steak with spinach puree.

餐厅的食材来自本地农场，靠近吧台的一块黑板上写出了食材的出处。开放式的厨房在餐厅的尽头，女厨师正在熏烤牛排，从小的煎锅到大的烤盘、烤架，都摆满了诱人的牛排，时而发出刺啦刺啦的烤肉声音，烤肉的香气在空气中弥漫。

If this is the first time you have come to Peter Luger, you must try the New York steak, rib-

要想吃到整块 54 盎司（3 ～ 4 人的分量，1 盎司 =28.3495231 克）的战斧牛排（带

eye steak with bone, creamy spinach or thick bacon. The chocolate coin they gave me after meal

骨肉眼牛排），必须耐心地等待 45 分钟。当它被端上桌的时候，我的眼睛就离不开它

was a surprise. It was like a scene in The Gold Diggers movie, which started with expectation and ended with satisfaction. The history and culture of a restaurant is infiltrated in every detail and

了。牛排表面呈深棕色，泛着油光，香气扑鼻。用刀把牛排切成小块厚片，肥瘦均匀，

style, which might look simple and not sumptuous but will remain in your memory and be recalled

侧面看呈漂亮的粉红色，是完美的三成熟！牛排肉质鲜美，脂肪含量比较多，吃起来

from time to time.

很过瘾。大块的肉吃完后，骨头上连着的肉可不能浪费，带筋的部分含有牛肉的脂肪，

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美国纽约篇

2016 年 3 月 11 日 / March 11, 2016

一口咬下去，肥肉在嘴里化开，感觉美妙极了，言语无法形容的好吃！当我们带着满足感走出牛排店的时候，在寒冷的夜风中，门外早已排起了长队。

Union Square Greenmarket

纽约联合广场的绿色集市

我不由自主地竖起了大拇指，用眼神与排队的食客交流 ——这是我吃过的最好吃的牛排！

New York Top Ten Steak House – St Anselm St Anselm is said to be among New York’s Top Ten Steak House. When you open their door on a cold evening, the hot wave and smell of broiled meat welcomes you with warmth and excitement. The yellow light is dim like being in a bar, a few beams of light and the burning flame of broiling steak illuminate the narrow dining room. We sat near the window, drank soda and watched this exquisite and popular steak house. The steak is from the best beef of local farm, their origin is written on the blackboard near the bar. The kitchen is at the end of the dining room, and the chef is grilling the steak. Steaks are

纽约联合广场的绿色集市

everywhere, from small pans to big grilling plates and shelves – they are so tempting, sizzling and letting out a fragrance of broiled meat in the air. If you want to eat the 54-ounce axe steak (rib-eye with bone) for three to four people, you

美国纽约联合广场绿色集市（Union Square Greenmarket）在 20 世纪 70 年代时只是

have to wait patiently for 45 minutes. When it was finally served, I could not take my eyes off of

个破烂不堪、犯罪猖獗的地方，直到这里出现了一个小型农贸市场，它渐渐影响着周

it. The surface was brown, glistened with its own oil with a delicious meaty fragrance. When the

围的一切，如今这里已是世界上最好的市场之一。卖家大都是纽约附近的农民、渔民、

steak is cut into thick slices, it has a good balance of fat and lean, while the inside is beautifully pink. The quality is quite nice and its fat is profuse, I enjoyed it so much! After eating the meat, the part with bone is worth chewing and should not go to waste. The tendon is also rich and melts in the mouth, it is fantastic and words cannot describe! When we finished and walked outside, people were lining up in the chilling evening. I could not help giving them a thumb-up and using eye contact

面包师，许多名厨经常在这里举办厨艺展示，当地的学校也会组织学生来认识时令蔬菜，了解健康饮食。每周一、周三、周五、周六的清晨，纽约周边地区的农夫们都会驾着卡车来赶集，风雨无阻。市集上所有的农产品都是农民自己栽种或制作，不加任何添加剂，不施任何农药，虽价格比普通的蔬菜瓜果要高，但食物新鲜、产地明确、健康、有机。市集上的商品有新鲜蔬菜瓜果、自制面包、牛肉、奶制品、海鲜、果酱、香料、红酒、干花、鲜花、

to express my appreciation of the steak. This is the

蜂蜜等，琳琅满目，五颜六色。不仅普通市民喜欢来这个市集，许多餐厅的主厨也来

best steak that I have ever eaten!

这里寻找食材和灵感。我在这里看到了很多不熟悉的西餐食材，边走边在网上查找它们的名字和相关介绍，还品尝了许多小吃。

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美国纽约篇

Union Square Greenmarket In 1970s, the Union Square Greenmarket was just a shabby and roistering place until a small size farmers’ market appeared. It gradually influenced its surrounding and everything started to improve. Nowadays, Union Square Greenmarket has become one of the best markets in the world. Most sellers here are nearby farmers, fishermen and bakers, many well-known chefs hold cuisine display here frequently, local school will organize activities here and teach their students to learn about seasonal vegetables and a healthy diet. Farmers come here every Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday morning, in rain or shine.

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

All the agricultural products here are planted or produced by the farmers themselves. Therefore, there are no additives or agricultural chemicals. Although the price is a little bit higher than ordinary vegetables and fruits: the products are fresher, have a clear origin, and are healthier and organic. The market has fresh vegetables and fruits, homemade bread, raw beef, dairy, seafood, jam, spices, wine, dried and fresh flower, and honey. The market attracts locals and chefs to shop here and look for new ingredients and inspiration. I saw many Western cuisine ingredients that I was not familiar with, so I gained new insight while walking around the market.

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美国纽约篇

2016 年 3 月 11 日 / March 11, 2016

Must-go Place in New York –Chelsea Market

纽约不可不逛的美食汇 —— 切尔西市场

纽约不可不逛的美食汇 —— 切尔西市场切尔西市场（Chelsea Market）位于曼哈顿切尔西区，是一个集美食广场、精品小店为一体的室内集市，集市上海鲜、肉类、蔬果、熟食、甜点、香料等应有尽有。这里是由旧工厂改建的，著名的奥利奥饼干就诞生于此。风格粗放，水管裸露在外，墙壁上残留着各种痕迹，但并不让人觉得简陋，反而有很强的时尚感。切尔西市场建于 1890 年，自建立以后，吸引着大量的游客和美食爱好者，也有餐厅的厨师来此选购食材。

Must-go Place in New York – Chelsea Market Chelsea Market is located in the west of Manhattan Chelsea district, it is an indoor market of food stores and boutiques; seafood, meat, vegetable, fruit, snack, desserts and spices are all sold here. Chelsea Market is built upon an old factory that used to produce the popular Oreo cookies. The wild design, bald water tubes and spotted wall are not ragged but rather stylish. It opened in 1890, and continuously attracts a lot of tourists, food lovers and chefs to come here.

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墨西哥玉米卷

美国纽约篇

香料

Los Tacos No.1

价廉而简单的墨西哥卷在美国占有

Spices

切尔西市场有很多种香料，香料的色彩、品质、

重要地位，这里的墨西哥卷远近闻名。一

味道都是极好的。还有不同种类的胡椒粉、盐，各种

般是先将品质好的牛肉腌制后挂在吊炉上

调料放在一起造成强烈的视觉冲击和嗅觉刺激，颜色、

烤，再用玉米饼包裹着烤肉，放入白洋

种类、数量繁多，一眼望去十分壮观。

葱、香菜提味，然后铺上一层软绵的牛油果果酱，加上墨西哥辣酱和番茄。一大口咬下去，满嘴酱汁，烤肉酥香、浓郁，清新的牛油果果酱和微辣的墨西哥辣酱融合在一起，增加了层次感，非常好吃！

Various spices are sold here, the color, quality and taste of these spices are high-quality. There are different kinds of peppers, salts, and a huge variety of spices, that when placed together results in a huge visual and olfactory stimulation. It is colorful, various and abundant, which looks splendid like a giant painting palette.

Taco is a cheap and convenient dish, which plays an important role in American cuisine. A dish called carne asada on tostada here is quite popular. Chefs marinate, hang the best quality beef on a shelf and grill it, then wrap the meat with onion, parsley, avocado cream, Mexican chili sauce and diced tomato together in a

意大利冰淇淋

Gelato

piece of tostada. Taking a big bite, the multiple tastes of sauces, crispy beef, fresh avocado cream and spicy chili sauce fills your whole mouth. It is quite delicious and surprising!

Gelato 是意大利语，意思是冰淇淋。意大利的手工冰淇淋世界闻名。以牛奶、奶油、糖为基础，搭配新鲜水

龙虾卷

果的冰淇淋低脂、低糖、低热量，口感柔软、细腻。 Lobster Roll Gelato means ice cream in Italian, Italy is famous for its handmade ice cream. It is based on milk, cream, sugar and different kinds of fresh

一走进海鲜市场，各种各样鲜活的海鲜就映入眼帘。吃到现做的龙虾卷是一件

fruit. Gelato is low fat, low sugar and low calories but it tastes soft, smooth

非常开心的事情，松软的面包里放着生菜和满满的龙虾肉，口感鲜嫩。除了龙虾卷，

and exquisite.

也有现做的寿司、生鱼片，放少许酱油、芥末就能尝到海鲜原始的味道。 When walking into the seafood market, a variety of fresh seafood places come

美食广场

Food Plaza

into view. I was quite lucky to be able to eat a freshly-made lobster roll. Vegetables and lavish lobster placed on top of the soft bread, where you can taste the sweetness, tenderness and texture of the lobster. Besides lobster roll, they have fresh sushi

切尔西市场深处有一个美食广场。购买食材的同时，可以点一些奶酪、火腿，配上红酒，在晴朗的午后小酌几杯，或是

and sashimi, add a little soy and mustard,

品尝手工制作的意大利面和饺子，在繁忙

and you can taste the original flavor of fresh

中放慢脚步，感受来自意大利的味道。

seafood. Walking straight forward and you can see a food plaza. You can order cheese, ham, red wine and other food here. Take a drink in a bright afternoon, or taste handmade spaghetti and ravioli. Slow down your pace and enjoy the Italian flavor here!

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美国纽约篇

2016 年 3 月 11 日 / March 11, 2016

Japanese ChikaLicious Dessert Bar

日本奇卡美味甜品店

Japanese ChikaLicious Dessert Bar There is a Japanese creative dessert store called “ChikaLicious Dessert Bar” in New York, which is said to be the legend among New York dessert stores for these past ten years. Many Michelin chefs come here because of its popularity. The dessert bar is very small and delicate, it can only hold about ten guests at one time, people can sit around the dessert table like eating at a sushi bar and watch how every dessert is made. It opens from 15:00 to 22:45 every Thursdays to Sundays. Its price is fixed at US$16 per person. There is always a long queue outside, and people will even wait in cold weather to try its dessert. Chika Tillman is the adorable Tokyo grandmother and owner, who mainly makes French desserts, but has also integrated Japanese and American desserts as well. She always keeps a smile on her face and shows it in every dish. It is her unrelenting attitude and the search for perfection that attract dessert lovers to come here from around the world. You can enjoy a

日本奇卡美味甜品店

complete French dessert cuisine from the appetizer, the main course to the dessert. Chika has opened chain stores in Tokyo, Seoul, Dubai, Bangkok, New York and Shanghai, the combination of romantic French dessert and fine Japanese refreshment create flavors surpassing your

Chikalicious 顾名思义 Chika+Delicious，也就是奇卡美味的意思。纽约的日本奇卡美味

expectation.

甜品店堪称十年来纽约甜品界的神话，米其林餐厅的大厨们也慕名而来。店很小，只能容纳十几位客人，是一个甜品吧，像吃寿司一样围坐在餐台旁，食客可以看到甜品的制作过程。每周四到周日的 15:00 － 22:45 营业，16 美元一位，店前常常大排长龙，有些人甚至在寒风中等得瑟瑟发抖也要吃到这家店的甜品。店主奇卡· 蒂尔曼（Chika Tillman）是一位来自日本东京的可爱的老奶奶，所学的厨艺以法国甜品为主，也融合了日、美的厨艺。她的脸上常挂着灿烂的笑容，她将微笑融入了每道甜品中，执着的态度和追求完美的细节，吸引了全世界的甜品爱好者前来品尝。甜品店的特色是提供前菜、主菜、甜点的套餐。奇卡 · 蒂尔曼已在东京、首尔、迪拜、曼谷、纽约、上海等地留下了足迹，她把法式甜品的浪漫与日式甜品的精致结合在一起，创造出了超越一般甜品的极致美味！

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│西餐篇│

美国纽约篇

茉莉花雪葩和蜜糖奶油

鞑靼奶油柿子

Jasmine Sorbet with Muscovado Cream

Persimmon Tartare on Fresh Cream and Kataifi with Almond Ice Cream

底层是蜂窝形的一种脆脆

开胃小点通常是雪葩配不同酱汁的奶油。淡淡的茉莉花口感的雪葩，冰凉爽口，入口即化。配上蜜糖奶油，

的薄饼，边上挤上了法式酸奶

甜而不腻。白色盘子中乳白色的雪葩和奶油如同精美的

油，搭配杏仁口味的冰淇淋。

艺术品，造型精致、漂亮。

脆脆的饼配着颜色鲜艳、微硬的甜柿子和淡淡的冰淇淋，让

The appetizer is usually sorbet with different cream. Jasmine sorbet has

人回味无穷。看奇卡摆盘绝对

a floral taste, the fresh and sweet fragrance lasts between your teeth and

是美妙的视觉享受，动作轻柔

melts quickly in your mouth. It will not be too rich with the muscovado cream.

熟练、精准、富有节奏。

The ivory sorbet and cream are held in a white plate like a delicate art.

A crispy hive-shaped crust lays at the bottom with French sour cream and almond ice cream at the side. Eat the crispy crust with fresh and sweet persimmon and almond ice cream, it is very impressive. It is

伯爵茶奶冻配柠檬雪葩及霜冻开心果 Earl Gray Panna Cotta with Meyer Lemon Sorbet and Frosted Pistachio

红茶味道的意式奶冻配酸味柠檬雪葩和脆脆的开心果，略带弹性的奶冻在花纹的盘子中透着光，造型精致，外形非常诱人，口感酸甜、冰凉、爽口。甜品中的每个元素都把握得极其准确。 The bouncy earl gray panna cotta goes well with lemon sorbet and crunchy pistachio, shimmering in the

an enjoyment to watch how Chika designs every dish. She places everything accurately, sophisticatedly and rhythmically.

奶酪蛋糕

Cheese Cake

奶酪蛋糕是该店的“招牌菜”。将白奶酪做成雪球状洁白的、软软

floral texture plate. The design is delicate and the appearance looks very tempting, it tastes sweet, cool and

的冰淇淋奶酪蛋糕，为了保持最佳

refreshing. Every ingredient in this dessert is accurate.

口感，白色盘子下面铺上了碎冰。蛋糕上面是从法国进口的鲜奶油，味道淡淡的，柔软丝滑、甜美。 High-quality white cheese is chosen for this dessert, which is made into snowballshaped white and soft ice cream cake. In order to maintain the best taste, ice flakes are put at the bottom, and the fresh French cream is poured on top. The taste is light and dreamy, it is very cool, soft, sweet and smooth like silk.

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2016 年 3 月 11 日 / March 11, 2016

The Best Hamburger in New York – Shake Shack

甜点套餐

纽约第一汉堡奶昔小站

Choice of Desserts

巧克力布朗尼烤得刚刚好，既有蛋糕绵软的“内心”，也有巧克力曲奇松脆的外表；现做的椰丝棉花糖入口即化；英式黄油烤蛋糕给我的印象最深，酥脆，有黑芝麻的香气。各种小巧而精致的甜点，在口中溶化的那一刻，有一种怦然心动的感觉，

纽约第一汉堡奶昔小站

很温暖。配上一杯菊花茶，在淡淡的花香中回味着甜蜜的味道，带着丝丝感动给日本奇卡美味甜品店之行画上了完美的句号。

奶昔小站（Shake Shack）最初是在麦迪逊公园广场上的一个热狗摊，生意火爆，菜 The chocolate brownie is baked just right, with its

soft center and crispy exterior, along with its coconut candy floss, the brownie melts into your mouth. The most

时间。如今这家店已经风靡纽约，也代表着一种新的饮食风格与时尚。选用质量最好

its crispiness and heavenly fragrance of black sesame.

的安格斯牛肉、放养型鸡，不添加激素或抗生素，配上非转基因土豆和面包，加上美

mouth, it is like listening to music and leaves you all warm

国奶酪、生菜、番茄，淋上秘制酱汁，这就是纽约最好吃的汉堡。一大口咬下去，满

inside. Eat the desserts with a cup of chrysanthemum

嘴都是牛肉、牛肉汁、蔬菜、奶酪及其香气，再喝上一口饮料，吃点迷你薯条，我极

tea, with its scent of flowers and sweetness it is really touching and is a perfect ending to this meal.

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

在肉饼上，奶酪遇热会慢慢溶化，味道香浓，既能给人带来美食的享受又节省客人的

impressive dish for me is the British style butter cake, with With a variety of exquisite dessert that melts in your

单很简单，有汉堡、热狗、饮料、薯条。美国人喜欢的奶酪汉堡，就是将一片奶酪放

其满足地享受着汉堡带给我的快乐。

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美国纽约篇

2016 年 3 月 11 日 / March 11, 2016

Ippudo Ramen

日式拉面博多一风堂

日式拉面博多一风堂 The Best Hamburger in New York – Shake Shack 如果论拉面店的名气，博多一风堂（Ippudo）绝对是纽约拉面界的老大。一风堂源 Shake Shack was at first a hot dog stand in Madison Square Garden, it is quite popular but its menu is very simple – hamburger, hot dog, milkshakes, drinks and chips. One thing that Americans love is the cheeseburgers; that is a piece of cheese added to a hot meat patty. When the cheese melts, the burger becomes quite creamy and gives off a heavenly fragrant

自日本九州的福冈市博多区，至今已在全球开设了 70 多家分店。一风堂由享誉国际的拉面大王河原成美（Shigemi Kawahara）一手创立，曾多次在日本拉面比赛中获得冠军。日本人特别喜爱拉面，已成为一种特殊的文化现象。

that customers enjoy. Today the store has become a staple in New York and represents a new

纽约的博多一风堂拉面店，在原有日本拉面的基础上加入了美国的饮食元素，从

eating style and trend. Use 100% Angus beef, wild-bred chicken raised without any hormones or

沙拉、前菜，到主菜、甜品，一个西式套餐就形成了。东、西方的食材及饮食文化相

antibiotic, non-transgenic potato, bread along with American cheese, vegetable, tomato and the secret Shack sauce to create the amazing Shack hamburger! With a big bite, and you can taste the beef juice, the sauce, the vegetable and the cheese at the same time. Having a drink and eating some mini chips, I enjoyed my hamburger with great satisfaction.

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

融合，给我们带来了新的美食体验，这也是我在介绍西餐的书中写日本拉面的原因。虽然一整天的西餐体验让我惊喜颇多，可在纽约的博多一风堂拉面店，我最终找到了梦寐以求的舌尖上的美味。

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一风堂叉烧角包

Hirata Buns

Ippudo Ramen 叉烧角包看着就很有食欲，绝对是我的最爱之一。 Considering its fame, Ippudo is no doubt the best ramen restaurant in New York. It first

样子有点像中国的肉夹馍，也像美国的汉堡。外面是

opened in Hakata, Fukuoka of Kyushu, and has more than 70 stores all over the world now. Its

用面粉做的馍，里面夹着两大块厚厚的肥瘦相间的秘

founder is the legendary world-class “Ramen King” – Shigemi Kawahara, who won the first prize

制的肉，加入了蛋黄酱、一风堂酱汁和蔬菜。口感微

in many Japanese ramen competitions. Japanese’s adoration for ramen has become a special

辣，肉肥而不腻、软烂、香浓，一口咬下去，肉汁就

cultural phenomenon.

流了出来，感觉非常满足。

Ippudo injects American cuisine elements into the original ramen, it has salad, appetizer, main course and dessert – a Western cuisine set menu is done. The combination of eastern and western ingredients and cuisine culture bring new experiences to us, and this is why I have included ramen in this book.

It looks appetizing and this is definitely one of my favorite, it is like a Chinese bun with meat or a hamburger. The outside is a bun made from flour and the inside is two large pieces of braised pork belly with layers of fat and lean meat, add mayonnaise, Ippudo sauce and vegetables to it. It tastes a bit spicy, the meat

After a full day of Western food experience surprises, I found another surprise in New York –

is rich but not fat and it smells really nice. With one bite, the juices come out and you will feel very satisfied.

a hand-made noodle shop that made the most delicious and mouth satisfying noodles.

一风堂沙拉

博多拉面

Hakata Ramen

Shoyu Dressing

博多拉面是日本三大拉面之一。长时间新鲜蔬菜配芥末、芝麻酱、日本酱油，

以慢火熬制而成的乳白色猪骨浓汤是一碗好

味道清爽，略带点野性。加入芥末的沙拉

拉面的基础，也是拉面的“灵魂”。汤底是

不多见，吃过之后，绝对会有惊喜。

按照店家的秘方做出来的，口味分酱油味、原味、盐味、味噌味，用鸡肉、柴鱼、猪骨、

Fresh vegetable with wasabi, sesame sauce and Japanese soy, it tastes fresh and wild. We seldom eat salad with wasabi, but it is worth a try and you will definitely be surprised.

牛骨等连续数小时熬制而成，呈乳白色，口感爽滑，味道鲜美，不油腻。面条以面粉、水、盐、鸡蛋为原料，用机器压制而成。热气腾腾的拉面煮好后，放入汤底中，加上叉烧、海苔、青葱、紫菜、麻笋、半熟蛋、木耳丝、腌过的生姜等，一碗博多拉面就做好了。拉面浓香扑鼻，弹、滑、劲道，肉

狮子唐辛子

软嫩多汁，肥而不腻，汤鲜而浓稠，还可以随意搭配生蒜泥、芝麻、辣椒粉、白醋， Shishito

使汤汁更加鲜美。吃日本拉面讲究“大口吃面，大口喝汤”，这是对好拉面的尊敬。

这道小菜很特别，长长的、扁扁的日本辣椒

Hakata ramen is one of Japanese top three ramen. The soul of this ramen is the ivory pork bone soup, which

用油炸后，外表光亮，十分诱人。拿起一整条辣

sets the foundation and needs to take a lot of time and patience to make. The soup is made from its original recipe,

椒放入口中，微甜、辣、酥脆、很香。

and includes soy, salt, miso flavors. Cook chicken, dry fish, pork bone, beef bone for hours until the soup looks ivory and tastes rich, smooth and not greasy or fat. The ramen is made from flour, water, salt and egg, which is then kneaded into dough and then pressed using a machine. Cook it and place it in the homemade soup, then

This side is very special, the Japanese chili is long and

add barbecued pork, seaweed, chive, dried purple seaweed, bamboo sprout, half-boiled egg, shredded fungi and

thin, after frying it with oil, it becomes shiny and the color is

marinated ginger. The fragrance of the ramen rushes into your nose, it is chewy and smooth, the meat is tender and

very tempting. Putting the whole chili in your mouth, and you

juicy and the soup is savory. You can also add smashed garlic, sesame, chili or white vinegar and make the soup

will find that it is sweet, spicy, crispy, and smells very nice!

taste even better. There is a Chinese saying, “eat noodles with a big bite, drink soup with a whole mouthful”, this is how to show your respect for ramen.

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2016 年 3 月 11 日 / March 11, 2016

Takashi Ramen

排队一小时以上的思想准备。高桥深夜拉面

餐厅的菜单上只有两个选择：高桥私房拉面和外婆香辣面。绝对不能错过香辣拉面，辣椒酱是用高桥奶奶的独门配方制作而成的，拉面劲道十足，若再加点虾酱，味道极其鲜美；拉面里的两大块厚厚的五花牛肉，用文火炖煮到软烂，肉香四溢，入口即化；再搭配炸过的牛小肠、炸蒜、芝麻、香葱、紫菜、半熟蛋，食材非常丰富；汤底咸味刚刚好，香醇、浓稠，加入香葱、芝麻后提升了汤汁的口感。这碗面绝对是拉面中的“极品”！这一碗拉面，让我有“相见恨晚”的感觉。如果你来纽约，一定要在周五或周六的凌晨零点吃上一碗暖暖的牛肉拉面！

Takashi Ramen There is a saying that goes like this: “there is something in the air that makes New York never sleep”, and one of the things must be Takashi midnight ramen.

高桥深夜拉面

Takashi serves Midnight ramen, sake and drinks from 12am to 2am every Friday and Saturday. You will feel regret if you miss out. Chef Takashi is a Korean Japanese; therefore, he adds many Korean flavors to his dishes, for example, kimchi and salad. The beef used by Takashi

在纽约的空气中，有种味道让人无法入眠，那就是高桥深夜拉面（Takashi）。

is from a farm in Kansas and Japan. Beef sashimi uses the most tender parts of Angus beef, cut it

高桥深夜拉面每周五和周六的凌晨零点到两点供应拉面、清酒、饮料，一周只有

into slices and eaten with sauce – this is one of the specialties here. Takashi ramen soup is made

一次，不容错过。主厨高桥先生是一位出生于日本的韩国移民，其菜品也融进了韩国

from beef bone, ginger, garlic and over 20 kinds of spices and is cooked for 24 hours. The ramen

元素，如泡菜、沙拉等。牛肉来自美国纽约、日本及顶级的安格斯牛肉，牛肉刺身选安格斯牛肉最嫩的部分，切成薄片后

for over an hour. There are two options on the menu: Takashi’s Original and Grandma’s Spicy Ramen. People

菜之一。这里的拉面汤底选用牛骨加

who like spicy food can choose ramen with Takashi’s secret homemade chili sauce. The ramen tastes al dente, add a little shrimp paste, and it tastes even better. The soup stock of beef simmer over low heat until the meat is soft and fragrant and melts in your mouth. Combine with different

24 小时而成，拉面是纯手工制作的，

ingredients like fried beef small intestine, fried garlic, sesame, chive, seaweed and half-boiled

顺滑、有弹性。要吃上这一碗深夜拉

egg, creates a thick, rich and aromatic soup that is seasoned perfectly. This is the ultimate ramen

面可不容易，至少要提前两周预约，

among all ramen. I regret not knowing about it and trying this amazing ramen earlier.

如果想碰碰运气也可以，不过要做好

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

to book at least two weeks in advance. If you want to try your luck, you will probably need to wait

拌上调料即可享用，这是餐厅的特色

入大量的姜、蒜以及 20 多种香料熬煮

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is handmade, very smooth and chewy. It is not easy to dine at Takashi Ramen because you need

If you come to New York, you should come here to have a bowl of hot beef ramen at 12am on Friday or Saturday.

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法国巴黎篇

浪漫的巴黎，舌尖上的诱惑 Romantic Paris, Enticement on Tongue

巴黎是法国首都、法国最大的城市，法国的政治、经济、文化、商业中心。建都已有 1400 多年的历史，保留着许多闻名世界的历史遗迹，又有许多宏伟壮丽的现代建筑，埃菲尔铁塔、巴黎圣母院、协和广场、罗浮宫、凡尔赛宫等让人流连忘返。巴黎是世界著名的时尚与浪漫之都，也是美食之都，巴黎的许多餐厅世界闻名。牛角包、咖啡、热巧克力、马卡龙、海鲜、蜗牛、鹅肝、鸭胸肉、牛排、羊排是法国人餐桌上常见的美食，搭配法国红酒，烘托出法式菜肴的完美感。那浪漫而精致的巴黎生活，就从味蕾开始吧！ 2016 年 3 月春假的 5 天时间里，我背着相机穿梭在巴黎的大街小巷，在来巴黎学习甜点的万博姐姐的陪同下，开始了法国的西餐之旅。提前两个月预约餐厅，按照制定的详细计划，我参观和体验了世界级的烹饪殿堂法国蓝带厨艺学院（Le Cordon Bleu International）、甜品中的“爱马仕”皮尔 · 艾尔梅（Pierre Hermé）、米其林一星餐厅 114 法布尔（Faubourg）、法国巴士底露天集市（Marché de la Bastille）、巴黎的咖啡文化双叟咖啡（Les Deux Magots）和花神咖啡（Café de Flore）、米其林三星莫里斯餐厅（Le Meurice）、造型巧克力店乔治 · 拉尼科尔（Maison Georges Larnicol）、老佛爷百

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货公司的葡萄酒专区、法国百年金蜗牛餐厅（L’Escargot Montorgueil）、巴黎著名的拉

tables, eat them with red wine and you can enjoy a perfect French cuisine experience. This part of

杜丽甜品店（Ladurée）、百年老店和平咖啡馆（Café de la Paix）等。

my Western cuisine journey begins here in the city of romance and lights, Paris.

这是我第二次来巴黎，这次的西餐之旅让我感受了法国料理新鲜的食材和世界

During March 2016, I started a five-day trip to Paris with Wanbo, who came here to learn desserts. I carried my camera and wandered the streets of Paris. I also visited the restaurants

领先的烹饪技术与现代感的完美结合。尊重食材，赋予它们生命，不只是菜的味道

that I had previously booked two months ago. Before the visit, I made a list of the restaurants

鲜美，更是创造新颖的艺术品。视觉、嗅觉、味觉，精雕细琢出极致美食的艺术殿

that I wanted to go to and try. This included the world’s largest hospitality institution, Le Cordon

堂，让我感受到法国餐饮文化的境界和情怀，法国人的热情和浪漫。我用蹩脚的法语和不够熟练的英语完成了这 5 天的行程，小本子上密密麻麻地记录了每道菜的询

Bleu, the “Hermé in desserts” Pierre Hermé; the King’s Hotel Michelin Three-Star Restaurant, Le Meurice; Michelin One-Star Restaurant, 114 Faubourg; L’Escargot Montorgueil with one hundred year’s history in France; the open air market, Marché de la Bastille; the two representative cafés,

问和感受，每张照片记录了我的足迹。无数次的惊喜，让我记住了这座城市，我被

Les Deux Magots and Café de Flore; chocolate store, Maison Georges Larnicol; the brunch of

这里的历史、建筑、美食、美景深深地吸引，并陶醉其中。

the famous high-end patisserie, Ladurée; tradition café, Café de la Paix and the wine cellar in the Galeries Laffayette and so much more. This is my second time in Paris, the combination of fresh ingredients and sophisticated

Paris is the capital and the largest city in France, it is also the political, economic, cultural and business center in France. The city has a history of over 1,400 years and preserves a lot of historic landmarks of interest. There are splendid architectural sights like the Eiffel Tower, NotreDame Cathedral, La Concorde Square, Louvre Museum and Versailles Palace. Paris is also the most popular place for fashion, romance and food. There are many well-known restaurants in Paris. They have croissant, black coffee, hot chocolate, macaron, seafood, escargot, goose

cooking skills in French cuisine made me understand that they regard cooking as creating art. It is an academy of vision, olfaction and gustation that allowed me to feel the passion and romance of French cuisine and their food culture. During the trip I used my awkward French and English to complete this five-day journey. I wrote down the interviews and feelings of every dish. Every picture that I took was a record of my adventures, which made me remember this city and this journey forever. I was deeply moved by the history, architecture, scenery and food of Paris.

liver, duck breast meat, steak and lamb rib. These are the most ordinary food served on French’s

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2016 年 3 月 16 日 / March 16, 2016

Le Cordon Bleu International

刀、油及调料。走廊的墙上悬挂着介绍学院发展史的图片和课程的介绍。这里是全世法国蓝带厨艺学院

界喜欢厨艺的人梦想起飞的地方。

Le Cordon Bleu International Le Cordon Bleu International was founded in 1895. It has 50 colleges over 27 cities in the world like Paris, London, Madrid, Tokyo, Seoul and Sydney. It is the most prominent college to teach classic French cuisine, desserts and baking skills, students from around the world come and study here. There are over a hundred excellent chefs and Michelin chefs with the blue belt teaching their knowledge and experience to students. They concentrate on studying cooking skills and creating new dishes, and they bring up a lot of new professional chefs. Le Cordon Bleu International has changed from a cooking training college to a world-class learning palace. Receiving a blue belt certificate means you get the pass to the culinary industry and are able to open the door of becoming top chef. In the history of Le Cordon Bleu International, it has received many communicative invitations and hosted numerous international feasts, which allow sophisticated French chefs’ cooking skills to flourish in the world. I was taken on a detailed tour led by the staff and visited the classrooms. Students listen to lectures and practice in the kitchen, there are about 30 seats in front of the operating table. On the table, there are many boards, cooking utensils, oil and other sauce. Information about the development of the college is hanging on the corridor wall, they have classes about Western

法国蓝带厨艺学院

cuisine, dessert, international hotel management and much more. This is the cradle of many cuisine lovers in the world.

法国蓝带厨艺学院（Le Cordon Bleu International）成立于 1895 年，旗下的 50 多所学校遍布 27 个国家的知名城市，如巴黎、伦敦、马德里、东京、首尔、悉尼等。法国蓝带厨艺学院是世界上重要的教授经典法国料理、甜点和烘焙的厨艺学院，学员来自世界各地。这里有近百名来自优秀的厨房和米其林星级餐厅的蓝带厨师大师给学生传授他们的知识和经验，在厨艺上潜心研究，不断创新，培养出许多专业的厨师。该学院已从最初的一所厨艺培训学校成为世界级的烹饪殿堂，拥有一张蓝带的证书意味着取得了一张厨艺界的通行证，开启了成为厨艺大师的大门。史册里记载了蓝带应邀参与的交流活动和主办的国际盛宴，这让法国精湛的厨艺和文化在世界舞台上绽放。我在工作人员的带领下，参观了学生们学习的地方：听课和演示的厨房里，操作台前摆放着可供 30 人听课的座椅；实际操作的厨房里，操作台上整齐地摆放着菜板、

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2016 年 3 月 16 日 / March 16, 2016

Hermé in Dessert – Pierre Hermé

在日本东京；2001 年转战巴黎。他逐渐成了甜品界的领军人物，对世界各地的甜点甜品中的“爱马仕”—— 皮尔·艾尔梅

有着重大影响。店里的甜品随季节的变化更新口味，从口感到外形，从质地到色彩，努力做到最好。他做的马卡龙非常有名，每年的 3 月 20 日是店里的马卡龙节，店里只卖马卡龙，每个进店的顾客可以免费领取 3 个马卡龙，每年这一天，店门口早已排起了长龙。马卡龙被誉为“少女的酥胸”，用杏仁、鸡蛋、糖等原料加工而成，在两块饼干之间夹着果酱或奶油等内馅，48 小时后才能上架出售。马卡龙通过时间的化学作用使味道和外形达到完美的呈现。不同颜色的马卡龙代表不同的口味：桃红色的是覆盆子味，草绿色的是开心果味，深咖色的是巧克力味。外表薄脆，内心柔软，非常甜腻，在口中慢慢溶化，甜蜜而幸福。

Hermé in Dessert – Pierre Hermé French prefer desserts – they study it, add romantic elements and inject soul and life into it. Colorful desserts are like tranquil Seine and splendid Provence, they are like the changing of four seasons, the masterpiece of architects and the sweet and splendid life. They arouse our appetite and make us feel the wonderfulness and romance of life. Pierre Hermé is the most popular dessert store in Paris, which is called Hermé of dessert.

甜品中的“爱马仕”—— 皮尔·艾尔梅

Its founder Pierre Hermé himself is regarded as many dessert makers’ idol. I chose to come here on my first day in Paris. When I opened the door, I was amazed by the colorful desserts lined in orderly fashion and smelling quite sweet. I quickly took a photo of this scene. Pierre Hermé was born into a family, which has continued to make dessert for four

法国人对甜点有着特殊的偏爱，他们潜心研究，并加入了浪漫的元素。五颜六色

generation. He learned dessert from Gaston Lenôtre at fourteen years old and became a

的法式甜点像静静的塞纳河和美丽的普罗旺斯一样绽放着光彩，如春夏秋冬的季节变

dessert maker at 24. During these eleven years, he created many popular desserts and became

换着颜色，如建筑师的作品充满着梦幻，它在召唤我们的味蕾，去感受生活的美好和浪漫。皮尔· 艾尔梅（Pierre Hermé）甜品店是巴黎非常著名的甜品店，被誉为“甜品中的爱马仕”，店主皮尔· 艾尔梅被甜点厨师当作偶像崇拜。我到巴黎的第一天就来到这里，推开店门，我被琳琅满目、五颜六色、排列整齐、香气扑鼻的各种甜点惊到了，赶紧拍下了这个美丽的瞬间。皮尔 · 艾尔梅出生在一个四代甜品世家。14 岁时师从甜点大师贾斯通 · 雷诺特， 24 岁成为甜点主厨。11 年间，他以独特的风格，创作出很多深受欢迎的甜点。1997 年在拉杜丽甜品店大放异彩；1998 年创立了以自己名字命名的甜品店，第一家店开

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2016 年 3 月 16 日 / March 16, 2016

famous for his distinctive style. His dessert made in Ladurée in 1997 won a lot of fame and praise. He founded Pierre Hermé Paris dessert store in 1998. His first store was in Tokyo, and then

Michelin One-Star Restaurant – 114 Faubourg

米其林一星餐厅 ——114 法布尔

he opened another in Paris in 2001. His dessert is admired by dessert lovers from Paris, Tokyo and New York. He is the pioneer in dessert making, his creative skill not only makes it art, but also influences dessert making all over the world. His style is simple and natural, and changes seasonally. He pursues perfection in taste, appearance, texture to color. His macaron is quite popular, every 20th of March is Pierre Hermé’s “Macaron Day”, and they only sell macarons at the store on that day. Each customer that arrives that day can get three macarons for free, and as such you can see a long queue outside the store starting from the morning. Macarons are made from almond, egg, sugar and other ingredients. Fruit jam or cream are stuffed in the middle of two biscuits, it can only be served after leaving there for 48 hours. During this time, the chemical effect in macaron will make it look nicer and taste better. Every color represents one flavor – the pink raspberry, the green pistachio, the dark brown chocolate… They are crunchy outside and tender inside, they are sweet and bouncy and melt directly in your mouth, then you can feel the sweetness and happiness from the bottom of your heart.

米其林一星餐厅 ——114 法布尔为了深入了解法国的饮食文化，我提前预约了著名的米其林一星餐厅 114 法布尔（114 Faubourg）。餐厅 2009 年成立，名字就是餐厅的地址，2013 年获得第一颗米其林星。餐厅在巴黎布里斯托尔（Le Bristol Paris）五星级酒店的地下一层，这座以路易十五及路易十六时期的风格打造的豪华酒店，是欧洲唯一一家总共获得四颗米其林星的酒店，其中三颗授予美食家 Epicure 餐厅，另外一颗则被 114 法布尔餐厅收入囊中。华灯初上，我在舒缓的音乐中走进了这家餐厅。餐厅很大，餐桌排列整齐，桌上点燃的蜡烛和柔和的灯光烘托出安静而浪漫的气氛，深红色的背景装饰墙成为这里的主要风景。夜幕降临，女士们、先生们陆续就座，虽室外天气寒冷，但他们的衣着仍很讲究。在这里，若你的穿着太随意，餐厅可以拒绝你进入餐厅用餐。如果从未体验过巴黎的米其林餐厅，真的很难想象此时此刻的场景。今天我品尝的菜，摆盘不是很华丽，简单中突出食物本身的味道。我最大的收获是在品尝美食的同时，体验了巴黎的用餐氛围，学到了用餐礼仪。

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法式面包配黄油 Baguette with Butter

篮子里放着不同口味的法式手工面包，口感稍硬、香脆，有嚼劲。搭配的黄油味道极佳，呈淡黄色，上面印有餐厅的名字，口感香浓、丝滑。 There are different kinds of French handmade bread in the basket, they are tough, crispy and chewy. It is very nice to eat with butter, which is light yellow, cut into biscuit shape and printed with the restaurant’s name on it. It is very creamy and silky.

阿拉斯加帝王蟹、柠檬籽沙拉 King Crab Egg, Ginger and Lemon Mayonnaise

Michelin One-Star Restaurant – 114 Faubourg In order to further learn about the delicacy and elegance of French cuisine, I booked a table in the popular Michelin One-Star Restaurant 114 Faubourg in advance. It was founded in 2009, and its name is its address and it received its first Michelin star in 2013. The restaurant is located in the underground floor of a five-star hotel, Le Bristol Paris. This luxurious hotel was constructed using the style from King Louis XV and Louis XVI’s time period. It is the only hotel that holds four Michelin stars in total – three going to Epicure restaurant and the other one to 114 Faubourg. When the evening lights were lit, I put on a suit and tie and walked into 114 Faubourg with

以鸡蛋沙拉为底，将阿拉斯加帝王蟹钳肉塞入特制的红鸡蛋蛋壳内。雪白的蟹肉口感鲜甜多汁，肉质有弹性，有咸咸的海水的味道。蟹肉上面的粉红色柠檬籽非常罕见，它来自澳洲，是一粒一粒的，酷似名贵的鱼子。由于它香气独特，味道很酸，能充分激发人的味蕾，深受主厨们的喜爱。上面还点缀着青苹果片、一片紫苏叶和少许香菜末。酸柠檬籽和蛋黄酱融合在一起，突出了蟹肉的清爽和鲜甜。

its soothing background music. The dining hall is very large, tables are in order, the candles and gentle light set a tranquil and romantic atmosphere and the crimson background is very stunning.

The base is egg salad, put the meat of king crab claw

When night falls, ladies and gentlemen come in and sit down one by one. Though the weather

inside the red eggshell. The white crab meat is so sweet, juicy

is chilly, the customers dress quite formally, because if you dress too casually, the restaurant will refuse to let you in. If you have not experienced a Michelin restaurant in Paris, it might be a bit hard to imagine the scene. The dishes that day were not too fancy, so you could taste the original flavor of the ingredients. The most important thing I learned was experiencing the atmosphere while dining and learning formal dinner manners.

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and elastic with fragrance of the salted sea water. The pink lemon seed is quite rare in Australia, the grain of its flesh is like precious caviar. Its aroma is special and sour, chefs like it very much. Sliced green apple, perilla leaves and parsley are decorated on top. The combination of lemon seed and mayonnaise highlights the freshness and sweetness of crab meat.

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奶油酱芦笋、熏鱼

法式鹅肝配珍珠鸡、小扁豆

Green Asparagus and Smoke Cream with Haddock, Fresh Herb and Lemon

Farm Roasted Guinea Fowl with Goose Liver, Stew of Lentils du Puy

新鲜的青芦笋是西餐中常见的食材。水煮开后，放入芦笋煮 2 分钟，再把芦笋

将来自法国南部的珍珠鸡均匀涂抹海盐和

放入冷水中浸泡，以保持它的绿色。在黑线鳕鱼肉里加入特殊的香料，然后用法国

胡椒粉，真空低温烹煮 2 小时，然后放入烤箱

传统方法将黑线鳕鱼烟熏成漂亮的浅橙色。在奶油酱汁中加入脂肪含量 35% 的鲜奶

400 ℉烤 5 分钟。在高温的作用下，鸡肉迅速上

油、香葱末、小茴香、盐、澳洲柳橙籽。用脆脆的芦笋蘸着酱汁，再加点黑线鳕鱼，

色，外皮焦脆，肉质细腻鲜美。水煮的小扁豆

芦笋清新、脆爽，柳橙籽淡淡的橙子味道使鱼肉去腥且味道鲜美。

铺底，口感清爽、无颗粒感。酱汁用了马德拉酒和烤鸡流出来的肉汁，味道香浓。搭配肥美

Fresh asparagus is a common ingredient in Western cuisine. Boil the asparagus for two minutes and put it in cold water to maintain its green color. Marinate the haddock with special spices and smoke it with leaves until it becomes light orange. Mix 35% fresh cream, shredded chive, fennel, salt and Australian orange seed together. Dip the smoked haddock in thick sauce and eat it with crispy

的鹅肝、面包一起食用，口感丰富，有层次感。 The guinea fowl comes from South France. Wipe sea salt and pepper on its skin, vacuum cook it for two hours, and then roast it in oven for five minutes at 400°F. In high temperature, the color of chicken meat turns quickly, its skin becomes crispy and the meat is delicious. Place boiled lentil at the bottom, it is fresh and smooth. The sauce is made from Madrid wine and the juice of the fowl, which is very original. Eat it with goose liver and bread, its flavor is so rich and multiple.

asparagus, it is so fresh, and the orange seed will surprise you, which can remove the fishy smell and make it fresher and sweeter.

法式千层酥配香草冰淇淋 Vanilla Bourbon Millefeuille, Salted Butter Caramel

烤梭鲈鱼配茴香、洋葱、红酒酱汁 Roasted Pike Perch, Onion and Fennel Compote with Cumin, Red Wine Reduction

千层酥是法国传统甜点的经典之作，也称“拿破仑蛋糕”。将面粉、水、溶化的黄油揉成面团，将 300 克黄油软化，塑成 2 厘米厚的方形。面团包裹黄油擀开、折

单面煎梭鲈鱼，最大限度地锁住鱼肉的水分，再放入烤箱 350 ℉烤 7 分钟；将洋葱和小茴香切成细丝，加入盐和胡椒粉调味，作为配菜；在勃艮第红酒中加入红酒醋以小火收汁做成红酒酱汁。鱼皮金黄、

叠并转向，重复多次做成酥皮，放入冰箱冷藏半小时后用烤箱 350 ℉烤制。酥皮蓬松，层次分明，用刀轻轻地一切，会听到清脆的声音，口感甜腻、酥脆。搭配用马达加斯加香草籽混合鲜奶油做成的冰淇淋，用金黄色的黄油焦糖脆片做装饰，漂亮极了。法式甜点的甜度很高，千万不要错过这完美的千层酥！ Millefeuille is a traditional French dessert, it is also called

焦香，鱼肉细白、嫩滑，红酒酱汁酸甜的

“Napoleon Cake”. Knead flour, water and melted butter into

味道提升了这道菜的口感。

dough. Cut 300g butter into 2cm thick cubes. Knead the paste

Fry the pike perch one side, which can reserve its juice. Roast it in oven for seven minutes at 350°F. Cut onion and fennel into shreds, add salt and pepper in it. The sauce is made from Burgundy red wine and red vinegar. The skin becomes browned and crispy, the flesh is white and tender. The sourness of this dish can make you refreshed.

with butter, fold and turn it over several times. Freeze it in fridge for half an hour and roast it at 350°F. A nice millefeuille needs to have fluffy skin and clear layers, cutting it open with a knife and you can hear a crunchy sound. Take the vanilla seeds from Madagascar vanilla pod, mix them with fresh cream and make them into ice cream. Decorate it with golden salted butter caramel, and it looks so brilliant. French desserts are nice and sweet, do not miss this excellent millefeuille!

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2016 年 3 月 17 日 / March 17, 2016

The Bastille Market – Marché de la Bastille

用；软皮奶酪，香味浓郁，口感醇厚，常切小块搭配面包、红酒或加入菜里；绿霉菌法国巴士底露天集市

的繁殖使奶酪形成了漂亮的蓝色花纹，即蓝奶酪，口感辛香、浓烈。我们漫步在集市上，感受着巴黎的慢生活。虽阳光灿烂，却有一丝寒意。突然，耳边响起了欢快的音乐，人们一边售卖，一边随着音乐律动，这样的画面很美好。

The Bastille Market – Marché de la Bastille Bastille Market is located in Lenoir Road, across the street from the famous Bastille Square. There is a grand monument build here to memorialize the French Revolution. This is the biggest and busiest market in Paris, where many stalls open from 7am to 1pm every Thursday and Sunday. We got here at 9am, there were already a lot of people, and the market was quite lively. Bastille Market has many different kinds of home-planted, homemade, fresh and organic ingredients from all over France: vegetables, fruits, flowers, seafood, cheese, fresh meat, ham, spices, pickled, bread, wine and snacks. You are like walking into a kingdom of ingredients. A huge variety of vegetables neatly lay on display and their colors look even more vibrant under the sun. There are various species of seafood, a long queue was lining in front of it. French greet you kindly with “Bonjour! (means “Hello!”)”. An oyster stand attracted my attention and so I went to it and tried an oyster. I sucked the meat and juice right out of the shell and into my mouth. It

法国巴士底露天集市

was salty, very smooth, and had the flavor of sea water and a texture almost like egg custard. Raw urchin tastes like steamed egg. As I continued through the market, I was attracted by the fragrance of cake and bought crêpe and bread wrapped in paper and ate it as I continued to

法国巴士底露天集市（Marché de la Bastille）位于勒努瓦大道，正对面是法国著名的

explore. There were so many spices in the market that I could not name them all. The spices were as colorful as paintings. French cheese is quite famous, and here is an assortment of cheeses on

巴士底广场，广场上有为纪念法国大革命而建立的纪念碑。这里是巴黎最大、最热闹

display in the window. There are soft cheese, hard cheese, blue cheese and many more different

的集市，由一个个摊位构成，每逢周四和周日早上七点到下午一点开放。我们在上午

types. The hard cheese tastes light and smooth; when eating it, you can cut off and discard the

九点来到这里，已是人头攒动，热闹非凡。这里售卖自种、自制、自酿，新鲜、环保的各种食材：蔬菜、水果、鲜花、海鲜、

hard skin. The soft cheese smells very nice and creamy; cut it into small pieces and eat it with bread, wine or vegetable dishes. A blue cheese dotted with green mold creates a beautiful looking cheese that is bold and spicy when tasted. Green fungi proliferate and give beautiful blue texture

奶酪、鲜肉、火腿、香料、酱菜、面包、酒等。走进这个集市，就仿佛走进了食材的

to the cheese. This is what blue cheese looks

王国。各种各样的蔬菜整齐地摆放着，在阳光的照射下，颜色更加鲜亮。海鲜种类繁

like, and it tastes a bit spicy and strong.

多，摊位前很快排起了长队，热情的法国人与我们打招呼： “Bonjour( 你好 ) ！”敲开生蚝壳，我把生蚝和汁水一起吸入口中，咸咸的、很腥、顺滑；生海胆有点像鸡蛋羹的

We wandered around the market and experienced the slow-paced lifestyle in Paris. Though the sun was shining, but it was still

味道。接着，我被蛋糕的香气吸引住了，买了可丽饼和面包用纸包着边走边吃。集市

very cool. Music played in the background and

上有很多我叫不出名字的香料，五颜六色，好像绘画的颜料。橱窗里摆放着各种奶酪，

people were doing business while swaying

有软皮奶酪、硬皮奶酪、蓝奶酪等。硬皮奶酪，口味清淡、顺滑，通常会去掉硬皮食

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to the rhythm of the music. It was a pleasant scene to watch.

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2016 年 3 月 17 日 / March 17, 2016

The Culture of Coffee in Paris – Les Deux Magots and Café de Flore

巴黎的咖啡文化 —— 双叟咖啡和花神咖啡

巨作《巴黎圣母院》，年轻的周恩来在巴黎留学时也经常在这家咖啡馆打发时光，它还是徐志摩散文中多次出现的咖啡馆。花神咖啡馆有茶、咖啡、热巧克力、酒、果汁、面包、煎蛋、沙拉、汤和甜点等。咖啡馆里红色的座椅很醒目，所有侍者为男士。我先后品尝了双叟咖啡馆和花神咖啡馆的热巧克力、咖啡、千层酥。这两家咖啡馆相邻，历史悠久，如朋友也如竞争对手，在环境、经营品种、文化等方面延续着传统并不断创新。咖啡对法国人的重要性如茶对中国人的重要性一样，咖啡的香醇令人如痴如醉。奥地利作家斯蒂芬· 茨威格说： “我不在咖啡馆，就在去咖啡馆的路上。”法国大文豪巴尔扎克曾写道： “咖啡馆的柜台就是民众的议会厅。”在巴黎喝咖啡，服务生送来的咖啡杯很小，这不是巴黎人小气，而是因为法国人从早到晚会喝很多杯咖啡。法国人喝咖啡讲究环境和情调，注重放松心情、享受生活。咖啡的制作如红酒一样要考虑原材料的产地、质量以及制作工艺，这些都会影响咖啡的口味。先是农场以人工采下咖啡果实，然后将其加工和晾晒后变为咖啡豆，再进行烘焙，咖啡豆从绿色变为褐色，平衡了味道，产生了咖啡的风味，最后研磨冲泡变为饮品，这就是咖啡的制作过程。不同的咖啡给人的感觉不同，咖啡的香气，入口后的感觉和在口腔中的余韵都让我感觉妙不可言。我喜欢巴黎，在这里不仅可以享受世界一流的美食，还可以深切地感受巴黎的文

巴黎的咖啡文化 —— 双叟咖啡和花神咖啡

化氛围，就连滴滴香浓、苦中有甜的咖啡都传递着巴黎特有的气息。我漫步在城市的街头，端着一杯热咖啡，裹紧大衣，边走边看这个城市的美好，继续前行……

在巴黎的街头，随处可见大大小小的咖啡馆，有的在室外搭建了遮阳棚，椅子放在人行道边上，法国人喜欢一边欣赏风景一边喝咖啡，这是巴黎街头常见的画面。在法国巴黎左岸有两家极负盛名的咖啡馆，曾是文人与艺术家们经常光顾的地方，他们都能在咖啡馆找到一点点灵感。双叟咖啡馆（Les Deux Magots）1875 年开始营业，是巴黎最古老的咖啡馆之一，店名来自咖啡馆内柱子上的两尊木制中国清朝官吏雕像。毕加索、海明威等学者、作家、画家都曾是这里的常客，部分咖啡、甜品、面包品种从开业延续至今。这家咖啡馆还出现在多部电影中。1933 年双叟咖啡馆设立文学奖，鼓励法国文学家创作。与普通的咖啡馆不同，这里还卖酒水，杯子、糖包、巧克力上都印着双叟咖啡馆的标志，给我留下了非常深刻的印象。花神咖啡馆（Café de Flore）创建于 1860 年，店名源自于罗马神话中的春之母花朵和花园的女神。花神咖啡馆见证了历史上很多重要的时刻，如雨果在这里写完了文学

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The Culture of Coffee in Paris – Les Deux Magots and Café de Flore Walking alongside the streets of Paris, you can see many distinctive cafés with their canopies, chairs and tables outside. French people prefer sitting on patios, viewing the scenery while sipping a cup of coffee – it is the most ordinary scene in the street. There are two wellknown cafés on the left side of the Seine River where literary giants and artists used to visit, because they could find inspiration here. Les Deux Magots was founded in 1875, and it is one of the oldest cafés in Paris. Its name comes from the wooden statues of two Chinese officers from Qing Dynasty in the café pillars. It has welcomed many scholars, writers and artists like Picasso and Hemingway. Many kinds of the coffee, desserts and bread are served from its open day up until now. It has also appeared in many movie scenes. In 1933, the café set up a literature prize to encourage French intellectuals to create and write. Les Deux Magots is different from other cafés, it serves alcohol and has its own logo on the surface of its cups, candies and chocolate, which is very impressive. Café de Flore was founded in 1860, its name originates from the Mother of Spring, who is also the Goddess in charge of flowers and gardens in Roman mythology. The café is the witness of many historic moments. Victor Hugo created his most famous masterpiece, Notre-Dame de

Paris here. Young Enlai Zhou, one of China’s most important former leaders, used to spend time here. Zhimo Xu, a famous Chinese poet wrote it in his works. It serves tea, coffee, hot chocolate, liquor and juice as well as baked bread, croissant, fried eggs, salad, soup and desserts. The red

atmosphere, food choice and culture. Coffee to the French is what tea to the Chinese. The smell

chairs inside the café look very smart and tiny, and all the waiters are male here.

is so haunting and mesmerizing that there is a saying by Austrian writer Stefan Zweig, “I am either

I tasted the hot chocolate, coffee and millefeuilles in Leux Deux Magots and Café de Flore.

in the café or on the way to the café”. French eminent writer Balzac once wrote, “The counter

These two cafés stand next to each other and both of which have shared a long history. They are

in the café is the meeting room of the public”. Coffee, in Paris, is usually served in a small cup,

like competitors, inheriting their traditional style while continually creating new creations in their

it is not because they are stingy. Who knows how many cups of coffee the French drinks every day! Drinking coffee is a relaxing moment for the French that care more about the atmosphere, fragrance and leisure. The procedure of making coffee is like making wine. You need to consider the place of production, the quality and the skills required to make it, which will all affect the taste. Farmers handpick coffee beans manually, then dry and roast them until the beans turn brown. The heat makes the aroma of beans stronger and more unique. Later, coffee beans are ground and made into ground coffee or ground espresso. This is the procedure of making coffee. Different coffee gives different feelings to people. Its fragrance, taste and the aroma in your mouth is fantastic. I love Paris. You not only taste world-class cuisine, but also experience its literature and art. It is like sipping a cup of creamy and smooth coffee, feeling the balance of bitterness and sweetness and perceiving the messages that it brings. As I was wandering in this vibrant city, the chilling wind was blowing, I buttoned up my coat, held a cup of hot coffee in my hand, and kept walking to the wonderful moments in Paris…

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2016 年 3 月 17 日 / March 17, 2016

King’s Hotel Michelin Three -Star Restaurant – Le Meurice

从做菜到设计菜单，挑选厨师，管理厨房，运营餐厅，一步一步构筑了最完美的米其米其林三星 —— 莫里斯餐厅

林三星餐厅。他擅长用当季最新鲜的蔬菜做成蔬菜料理，将平凡的蔬菜变得与众不同。我很早就预约了这家餐厅，并发邮件希望能见到这位世界著名的明星大厨。米其林餐厅的大厨像明星一样是很难见到的，采访他们更是一件难上加难的事情。但是，奇迹发生了！我们按预约时间进入餐厅，刚坐下来点菜，大厨乔斯林· 赫兰德就在厨房门口热情地与我打招呼，我顿时目瞪口呆。然后，我们握手，自我介绍。我激动极了，像看到喜欢的篮球明星一般。他穿着洁白的熨烫得平整的厨师服，那是厨房领导者的象征，深邃的大眼睛里充满着友善。在美国之行中，我因没有与主厨见面而感到遗憾，这一次我终于见到米其林三星餐厅的大厨了！他带我参观了厨房，厨房旁边还有间贵宾房，在这里可以一边吃饭一边欣赏每道菜的制作过程。厨房干净整洁，物品摆放整齐。每道菜由厨房不同区域的厨师共同完成，从制作到摆盘、出菜，井然有序，一道道精美的“艺术品”被大厨“雕琢”而成。

King’s Hotel Michelin Three-Star Restaurant – Le Meurice The Michelin Three-Star Restaurant Le Meurice is located in Le Meurice Five-Star Hotel. It is one of six top hotels in Paris and has a history of over two hundred years; European aristocracy,

米其林三星 —— 莫里斯餐厅

celebrities and French movie stars used to frequent here, It is so royal that it is also called the “King’s Hotel”. The high ceiling, the crystal chandelier and the classic fresco make you feel like walking into the Louvre Museum, and its dining area is in the classic French royal style. Alain Ducasse is the top chef in France, he was born in a farm in the southwest of France.

米其林三星莫里斯餐厅（Le Meurice）位于巴黎同名五星级酒店中。这里是巴黎 6 家顶级酒店之一，有 200 多年的历史，欧洲贵族、社交名流和影星都是这里的常客，

He owns three Michelin restaurants and is known as the “Nine Stars Chef”. Le Meurice’s chef now is Jocelyn Herland, who followed Alain Ducasse since 1997. He gradually took charge of Alain’s Michelin Three-Star Restaurants during 19 years. Both Alain Ducasse and Jocelyn Herland come

因受到王室贵族的青睐，有“国王酒店”之称。酒店里高高的天花板、璀璨的水晶吊

from traditional French families, their inspiration comes from the dishes made by their grandma

灯、古典的壁画，让人仿佛走进了罗浮宫，典型的法式宫廷风格。

who buried a seed in their dreams when they were little. Jocelyn has been influenced by Alain,

艾伦· 杜卡斯（Alain Ducasse）是法国第一主厨，拥有三家米其林餐厅，被誉为“九星名厨”。米其林三星莫里斯餐

from cooking dishes, to designing menu, choosing chefs, to managing restaurants, and to running the kitchen, he has built

厅现在的主厨是乔斯林 · 赫兰德（Jocelyn Herland），1997 年

the most perfect Michelin Three-Star

开始他跟随艾伦 · 杜卡斯，19 年时间逐渐掌管艾伦旗下的米

Restaurant step by step. Jocelyn is good

其林三星餐厅。艾伦 · 杜卡斯和乔斯林 · 赫兰德都来自最传统的法国家庭，最初启发他们的是小时候外婆每天做的料理，后来逐渐走上了厨师这条路。乔斯林在艾伦的影响下，

at using fresh and seasonal vegetables to make dishes as he can change ordinary vegetables into something different and full of magical color.

乔斯林 ·赫兰德（Jocelyn Herland）

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I booked the restaurant quite early. I sent them email to express my admiration of Jocelyn and expressing my hope of meeting this famous chef. Michelin chefs

腌制生蚝

Marinated Oysters

把法国南岸最新鲜的 3 号生蚝取出生蚝肉，

are very hard to meet like movie stars,

加入盐、石榴醋腌一下，以生蚝壳为底，把腌好的

let alone interview them. But a miracle

蚝肉放在金黄色脆片上。石榴醋既杀菌又可以去除

happened, when we walked into the

腥味。脆片的甜味和蚝肉的鲜咸及少许酸的味道充

restaurant and sat down to make orders,

分融合，微酸的口感突出生蚝的鲜美，唇齿间生蚝

Chef Jocelyn greeted us warmly from the

肥美多汁、顺滑柔软的感觉真是美妙极了 !

kitchen and I was shocked at that moment. Later, we shook hands and introduced one other, I was so excited that it was like meeting my favorite basketball star. He wore white and a tidily-

Use the freshest No.3 oyster from the south bank of France, pick out the oyster meat, marinate it with salt and

ironed chef suit, which represents the leader in the kitchen. His big deep eyes looked so friendly

pomegranate vinegar for a while, and then put the meat on a piece of fried chip. The pomegranate vinegar can kill

and kind. It was with regret that I could not meet with any other chefs during my trip to the United

germs and remove the brackish smell. The sweetness of the chip and the saltiness of the oyster crash and haunt

States. But this time, I finally met a Michelin chef! Chef Jocelyn showed me around the kitchen, and the VIP room next to it, where you could watch how dishes are made while eating. The

in your mouth, the sourness highlights the freshness of oyster, it is fat, juicy and smooth between your lip and teeth, which is fantastic.

kitchen is quite tidy, everything is in order and every dish is made in different areas. From cooking, decorating to serving, every step needs to be dealt with meticulously and orderly. Cuisine is like artwork here, which is exquisitely prepared and presented by the chefs that work here.

盐烤有机蔬菜

Vegetables Cooked in the Salt Crust

特制蒸笼里摆上一圈大块的喜马拉雅粉盐，中间放置由法国盐之花制成的盐壳盛着 380 ℉烤 30 分钟后的蔬菜。烤蔬菜的种类很多，有土豆、甜菜根、红菜头、珍珠洋葱、迷你红萝卜、西葫芦等。盐之花是法国顶级的海盐，取自盐田上最薄的那一层结晶，十分珍贵，容易融入食物中。蔬菜在盐壳中慢慢地吸收盐的味道，调味的同时让蔬菜保持爽脆。这种技艺很巧妙，菜看似是蒸熟的，实际上是烤熟的。将烤制的蔬菜放在蒸笼中间，用小火来维持它的温度，也能保持蔬菜的水分。虽说蔬菜用了盐调味，但味道还是有些淡。黑橄榄碎与黄油混合成酱汁，给蔬菜增加了特别的味道。这道颇有新意的蔬菜作为这一餐的头盘着实让我惊叹！ A big bulk of Himalayan pink salt is put around the special steam box, put vegetables in the salt crust made of French “Flower Salt” and roast it for half an hour at 380°F. There is a variety of grilled vegetables: sweet organic potatoes from North France farms; sweet, smooth yellow beetroot; soft, sour beetroot and pearl onion, which are the best salad ingredients. Mini carrot and marrow are full of water. Flower Salt is the top sea salt in France, it is very specious and taken from the surface of salt fields. It has a unique flavor and is easily absorbed by food. Vegetables are lay inside the salt crust and gradually take in the salted fragrance. This method can maintain the crispiness of vegetables while seasoning them, it is quite brilliant. It looks like being steamed; in fact, it is broiled. Put the broiled vegetables in the middle, use low heat to keep its temperature and water. Even though salt is put in it, it tastes still a bit light; therefore, olive is cut into pieces and mixed with butter to give a sour flavor to the dish. This creative appetizer was quite astonishing for me.

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青芦笋配炭灰、奶酪

黑松露鸡胸

Black Truffle Poultry with Celery Root

Asparagus with Charcoal Cheese

取球形芹菜根部最嫩的部分，外皮裹上黑橄榄碎，把咸味的奶酪碾成碎末，与树枝烧成

烤熟。主食材选用几内亚鸡的大块鸡胸，上面放厚厚的

的炭灰混合，香气浓郁且口感奇妙。青芦

一层冬季产的黑松露，放入烤箱 150 ℉烤 4 小时。用

笋放入烤箱 380 ℉烤 15 分钟。摆盘时，

黑松露、芜菁（别称大头菜、圆菜头）搅打成泥，加入

让奶酪与蔬菜充分融合，淋上薄荷奶油酱

烤鸡的汤汁做成酱汁。鸡肉外皮酥脆，肉质软烂，蘸少

汁和杏仁酱汁，用黄瓜花装饰。嫩、脆的

许酱汁，香味更加浓郁，口中还留有黑松露的余香。

青芦笋蘸上酱汁的味道，在奶酪与炭灰的

黑松露也称块菌，是一种生长于地下的野生食用真菌，外表凹凸不平，色泽在深棕

衬托下，口感清爽、鲜甜，让我感觉像是

色与黑色之间，有灰色或浅黑色与白色的纹理，味浓，香气扑鼻，被称为餐桌上的“黑

置身于春天的花园里，一切是那么美好。

色钻石”。在欧洲通常用于顶级料理，其身价与鱼子酱、鹅肝等高级美食并列，号称 “世界三大美食”。

French cheese is ground into mince, mix it with burned leaves to give it a charcoal flavor, its scent is very strong and the taste is magical. Put asparagus with cheese in the oven for fifteen minutes at 380°F, this

Use the most tender part of ball-shaped celery root, put black olive shreds on its surface and roast it. The

mixes makes their scent completely together. Make the sauce with mint cream and almond cream, pour it on

main part is Guinea chicken breast, put a thick layer of winter black truffle on it and roast it for four hours at

and decorate the dish with a cucumber flower. The tenderness and crispiness of asparagus is highlighted by

150°F. Whisk black truffle, turnip and roasted chicken juice to make the sauce. Dip the chicken breast in the

charcoal cheese and the sauce, it tastes fresh and sweet like being in a garden in spring, everything was so

sauce, its skin is crispy and aromatic and the smell of black truffle lasts in your mouth.

wonderful.

Black truffle is also called bulked fungi, which grows wildly underground. Its surface is bumpy and its color is between dark brown and black. It looks like a little hump and has gray or black and white texture, its smell is very strong and tempting. It is called the “black diamond” on the table, which is usually used as top ingredients in Europe; other luxurious ingredients are like caviar and goose liver sauce – these three together are called the “three kings of gourmet ingredients”.

布列塔尼龙虾配洋蓟 Brittany Lobster with Artichoke

布列塔尼蓝龙虾肉紧实、咸鲜。将取出的新鲜、完整的龙虾肉放在鱼高汤中迅

餐后奶酪

Selection of Cheese

速汆一下，“锁”住龙虾肉的鲜味，保持鲜嫩的口感。取洋蓟最嫩的芯的颈部，放在蔬菜高汤里煮熟，口感脆脆的。酱汁是用龙虾头、龙虾壳、法香叶、日本柴鱼高汤

吃完主菜，侍者推来一个很大的推车，上面摆满了 8 种新鲜的奶酪，味道从淡到浓，口感从软到硬。在法国，只有通过凝结后沥干而制成的奶制品才可以被称为

做成的。

“奶酪”。作为原材料的奶可以是牛奶、山羊奶或者绵羊奶。法国的奶酪超过一千种， The meat of Brittany Blue Lobster is plump, tough and fresh. Take out the complete lobster meat and blanch it in bonito soup, it can remain its freshness quickly. Take the most tender part of artichoke and boil it in vegetable soup, it tastes very crispy. The sauce is made from lobster head, lobster shell, herb and bonito soup.

口味各具特色。奶酪除了可以搭配松软的面包，还可以搭配蔬菜，略带酸味的新鲜沙拉配上一点硬的咸奶酪，或是软的山羊奶酪味道都非常好。 After the main course, the waiter came with a huge trolley, there were eight kinds of freshest cheese of the day. Their flavor ranges from light to strong. In France, only cheese made by coagulating and draining can be called cheese. The original ingredients can be cow milk, goat milk or sheep milk. There are over one thousand kinds of French cheese with different flavors. Besides eating cheese with soft bread, it can also be eaten with vegetables, and goes well with a slightly tart salad paired with a salty hard cheese or a soft goat cheese.

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巧克力甜品

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Chocolate Soufflé with Ice Cream

舒芙蕾被公认为最难做的甜品之一，它的口感只有那短短的 30 秒。蓬松的外表轻轻戳破就可以吃到浓浓的巧克力酱，有种瞬间幻灭的感觉，入口即化，苦苦的、软绵绵的。在舒芙蕾的旁边放一个意大利浓缩咖啡冰淇淋，味道微苦，香浓、顺滑。冷热搭配，摆盘很有艺术感，每一口都会让你爱到疯狂。 Soufflé is regarded as one of the most difficult desserts to make, because its taste only lasts for 30 seconds. Break it gently and the thick chocolate cream comes out, it is evanescent and melts immediately in your mouth, it is also bitter and foamy. Eat it with Italian espresso ice cream, and it tastes a bit bitter yet very rich and smooth. It combines coldness and hotness perfectly and the design looks very artistic, people will really go crazy for it.

小胖点评

水果雪葩

Fruit Sorbets

吃完巧克力甜品后，另一个惊喜出现了。侍者推的车上摆放着非常漂亮的水果

法国是欧洲最重饮食的国家，法餐按开胃菜、前菜、主菜、奶酪、甜点的程序一道一道地呈现。点餐时首选餐厅推出的固定套餐，每道菜上菜的时间掌控得非常好，每道菜的餐具为客人搭配好，盘子由专门的机器加热，避免食物变冷，吃晚餐通常需要 2 小时。若桌上的餐巾掉了、脏了或

雪葩：法国西洋梨、红西柚、菠萝、小巧的芒果球、小柑橘。雪葩是将新鲜水果冷

桌上有面包屑，侍者会立刻帮客人换新的餐巾或将面包屑用小机器清理干净，服务非常贴心。法国

藏至结冰后磨成的冰沙。我选了甜度高的西洋梨配芒果，每一口都能感受到水果的

菜的口感、摆盘、食物的搭配和制作流程，领先的烹饪技术和现代感的完美结合，呈现出华丽、美

香甜和冰凉。

味、细腻的菜肴，这些对我而言都是惊喜，说法国菜是艺术品绝不夸张。在米其林三星莫里斯餐

After eating the chocolate-themed desserts another surprise comes. The waiter pushed a trolley of fruit sorbets: European pear, grapefruit, pineapple, small mango and small citrus. Sorbet is made of frozen fresh fruit, which is ground

厅，我充分享受着美食和高品质的服务。餐厅内满是壁画、浮雕、银制餐具，灯光柔和，音乐舒缓，客人们动作优雅，时而低语，时而品尝美食，虽窗外寒风凛冽，但室内温暖如春，弥漫着浪漫的气息，我仿佛置身在电影的画面中。 My Comment: France might be the country that takes its cuisine the most seriously. In French cuisine, the appetizer, main course, cheese and dessert are served one after the other. The set menu is usually the first choice in a restaurant, and every dish is managed very well by the chefs. The tableware to eat every dish is set, and plates are heated by a specific machine to avoid it getting

into ice. I choose the sweetest European

cold. Dinner usually requires two hours, if your napkin drops, gets dirty or has any breadcrumbs on it, the waiter will change it

pear sorbet and mango sorbet. You can

for you immediately or use a little machine to clean the crumbs, the service is first class. The taste, design, nutrient balance,

taste the sweetness and the coolness of the pear, it is so smooth and the taste can last.

cooking process, match of different ingredients, the combination of advanced skills and modern feeling demonstrate the luxury and delicateness of French cuisine, which were all a surprises to me. It is not an exaggeration to say that French cuisine is art. I fully enjoyed the gourmet cuisine and three-star service at Le Meurice. The restaurant is surrounded by the divine frescos, sculptures, silver tableware; the light is soft and the music is gentle, guests eat elegantly – they talk at a low voice sometimes while enjoying delicious food. Even though it is freezing outside, it is warm like spring inside the restaurant. Gentle light, soft music and a romantic atmosphere makes me feel like being in a movie.

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2016 年 3 月 18 日 / March 18, 2016

Chocolate Store – Maison Georges Larnicol

造型巧克力店 —— 乔治·拉尼科尔

Chocolate Store – Maison Georges Larnicol There are many chocolate stores in Paris, but few of them will make models with chocolate. Maison Georges Larnicol opened in 2010, and its chef is the master of dessert, Georges Larnicol, who is called the “French Craftsman”. He became a dessert maker in his thirties. He studied architecture and art before, which contributed a lot to his chocolate decoration. He followed his father’s footsteps and became a dessert maker and later surpassed his father and won the “The Best Craftsmen of France (MOF)” award. The store is mainly decorated with wooden materials, and the yellow dim light gives people a cozy feeling. The chocolate is all handmade, it is tidy and colorful with marvelous design, and it is all very tempting. The chocolate piano looks very vivid; chocolate candies of different flavors are put in a red chocolate high-heeled shoe. The big colorful rooster is very perky and the chocolate red wine bottle is creative. Macaron is sold according by its weight here, which is quite rare in Paris. The store is full of handmade delicate chocolate and colorful biscuits, which make people want to bring them home.

造型巧克力店 —— 乔治·拉尼科尔巴黎有很多巧克力店，但用巧克力做成不同造型的倒是不多见。乔治·拉尼科尔甜品店（Maison Georges Larnicol）2010 年底开始营业，主厨是有“法国名匠”之称的甜点大师乔治· 拉尼科尔。他 30 岁才成为甜点师，曾学过建筑与美术，这对他设计巧克力造型有很大的帮助。他追随父亲的脚步成为一位甜点师，并超过了父亲，还获得了法国工艺大师的殊荣。店内以木制材料装饰，配上昏黄的灯光，给人以温暖的感觉。巧克力全部是手工制作，摆放着五颜六色、各种造型的巧克力，有惟妙惟肖的钢琴造型，有不同口味的巧克力糖果的红色高跟鞋造型，还有昂首挺胸的彩色大公鸡造型和新颖的红酒瓶造型。该店的马卡龙专柜，按重量卖，这在巴黎甜品店中极为罕见。看着那些手工制作的精美的巧克力，我很想把它们带回家。

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2016 年 3 月 18 日 / March 18, 2016

French Wines

地区餐酒、日常餐酒。法国葡萄酒

法国是一个葡萄酒的国度，法国东北部的香槟独一无二，阿尔萨斯出产干白和甜白；西部的卢瓦尔河谷盛产各种类型的葡萄酒；波尔多、勃艮第的葡萄酒更为高贵；南部的普罗旺斯盛产最浪漫的桃红葡萄酒。红葡萄酒配红肉（指牛肉、羊肉）和白葡萄酒配白肉（指禽肉类）历来是餐酒搭配的基本准则，但现在已经不是唯一准则了，如今的烹调食材丰富多样，烹饪方法繁多，所以有更多的选择和搭配。酒与食物的搭配取决于菜肴的情况。肉香浓郁的菜肴与口感丰富的红酒十分和谐，如波尔多葡萄酒。当然，肉类也可以搭配清淡型酒体的红葡萄酒，如含果味的勃艮第葡萄酒，或搭配带有橡木味的莎当妮白葡萄酒。烹调方法也影响酒与食物的搭配。口味比较强烈的食物（如鸭肉或者醋拌沙拉）就需要与酸度相似的红葡萄酒搭配。低酸度酒的味道会被这类食物的味道所掩盖，尝不到酒的味道。酸度偏高的葡萄酒可以搭配口感顺滑的奶油类美食。酒体丰满、高单宁、口味丰富的红葡萄酒适合搭配厚重的红肉大餐，如烤牛排，红肉肉汁的口感及丰富的味道会提升红葡萄酒的风味和质地。白葡萄酒配白肉，如烤三文鱼就适合搭配雷司令这样酒体轻、口感清爽的白葡萄酒。白葡萄酒若搭配有奶油口感的甜点，也会非常匹配。

法国葡萄酒要了解法国美食，一定要知道法国葡萄酒的知识。来法国之前，我结识了深圳的品酒师刘桓铭叔叔，他是英国葡萄酒及烈酒教育基金会的高级品酒师、深圳品醇客俱乐部的创会主席。在一个意大利餐厅，我听他介绍了葡萄酒的历史、种类、口感等方

French Wines If you want to know about French cuisine, you must know something about French wine. Before I came to France, I met with a wine taster Huanming Liu in Shenzhen. He is the honored wine taster of Wine & Sprite Education Trust and the chairman of Decanter Club Shenzhen. In an Italian restaurant, I heard him introduce red wine and I gradually learned about its history,

面的知识，我虽不能品尝葡萄酒，但是我很想知道葡萄酒的颜色、产地、年份、口感、

vineyards, species and taste. Although I am too young to drink wine, I wanted to know how to

品质以及葡萄酒与美食搭配的奥秘。于是，我来到巴黎老佛爷百货公司一楼的法国红

distinguish the different colors of red wine, their origin, year, taste, quality and how to drink it

酒专区，请工作人员为我介绍法国各产区品质不同的葡萄酒。全世界大约有一万种可以酿酒的葡萄，国际上普遍使用的葡萄品种大约 50 种。因

with food. Bringing these questions with me, I came to the French wine area on the first floor of Lafayette Paris, and I asked the assistant for more information. There are more than ten thousand kinds of grapes in the world, which can be made into

为葡萄是制作葡萄酒的主要原料，所以酒的香味、色泽和口感极大程度地取决于酿酒

wine. Fifty of them are the most commonly used. Because grapes are the main source to make

所选用的葡萄品种。酿制红葡萄酒的葡萄品种包括：黑皮诺、加本力苏维翁、设拉子、

wine, its species largely determines the smell, color and taste of wine. Classic grapes to make

梅洛、仙粉黛和佳美葡萄等。酿制白葡萄酒常用的葡萄品种包括：莎当妮、白苏维翁、雷司令、赛美蓉、灰皮诺等。法国葡萄酒产区：波尔多、勃艮第、卢瓦尔河谷、香槟区、北隆河谷、阿尔萨斯。法国将葡萄酒分为 4 级 : 法定产区葡萄酒、优良地区葡萄酒、

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red wine are like Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Merlot, Zinfandel and Gamay grapes. White wines are usually made from Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Semillon and Pinot Gris. Origins are like Bordeaux, Burgundy, Loire Valley, Champagne, Northern Rhône, Southern Rhône and Alsace. French wine is divided into four levels: official wine origin (“appellation d’origine

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2016 年 3 月 18 日 / March 18, 2016

contrôlée”), high-quality wine origin (“vin délimité de qualité supérieure”), wine of region (“vin de pays”) and wine of table (“vin de table”). Because Paris is the capital city of France, it is able to collect different good wines from

Snail Restaurant – L’Escargot Montorgueil

法国百年金蜗牛餐厅

around France. Champagne from the northeast is unique; white wine and sweet white wine from North Alsace are distinctive; red wines from the west of Loire Valley have many variations. Bordeaux and Burgundy are noble; the pink wine from South Provence is romantic. Red wine goes with red meat like beef and lamb, white wine goes with white meat like fowl – this is the basic standard for meals with wine. But it is not the only way, because nowadays dishes are varied and cooking skills differ, more choices and combinations have appeared. The match of wine and food is considered by what you eat. Strong smelling meat goes better with red wine like Bordeaux. Of course, you can eat meat with light red wine like fruity Burgundy or oaky Chardonnay. Cooking methods also influence the balance between wine and food. Strong flavored meat like duck meat goes better with red wine, because if the acidity of wine is low, it will be overwhelmed by the strong smell of meat and you cannot taste its flavor. Red wine with high acidity is also suitable for creamy food. For red wine with high tannins and a special taste, red meat with a strong flavor matches perfectly with it like roasted steak. The juicy taste and rich flavor of this meat can improve the scent and quality of red wine. White wine can be had with white meat like grilled salmon, crispy salmon crust, and can taste fantastic with a light and fresh Riesling. White wine is also suitable with a creamy dessert.

法国百年金蜗牛餐厅法国金蜗牛餐厅（L’Escargot Montorgueil）是巴黎最棒的法式经典蜗牛料理店，1832 年开业，很多人慕名而来。餐厅所在的建筑古老，内部以红色和棕色为主色调，凸显了华贵、典雅的欧式建筑装饰风格，环境安静而舒适，如蜗牛形状的旋转式楼梯令人难忘，玻璃杯上也有蜗牛的图案。法国勃艮第不仅盛产葡萄酒，也盛产蜗牛。蜗牛营养丰富，含钙、镁等多种微量元素。现在，野生的蜗牛越来越少了，吃蜗牛逐渐成了一件奢侈的事情。该店的招牌菜就是金蜗牛，蜗牛壳是 24K 金的，蜗牛的外壳和肉都是金灿灿的。在点点烛光和舒缓的音乐中，品尝一道经典的蜗牛，浪漫的巴黎夜晚和盛宴开始了！

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现开 3 号布列塔尼生蚝

Fresh Bretagne No.3 Oysters

生蚝是法国秋冬时节不能错过的绝佳美味。法国布列塔尼生蚝按 0 至 6 号编号， 0 号尺寸最大，6 号尺寸最小，2 号和 3 号这两个等级是最好的，口感最佳。生蚝的营养价值特别高，做法繁多，但生吃是对法国生蚝最大的敬意。新鲜的生蚝搭配几滴柠檬汁或是一点酸酸的醋汁，将诱人、鲜美的蚝肉放入口中，慢慢滑落，海水和蚝肉的味道霎时充满整个口腔，刺激你的舌尖，浓郁顺滑。著名美食书《厨房机密》的作者安东尼 • 伯尔顿曾说：“撬开蚌壳，嘴唇抵住蚝壳边缘，轻轻吮吸，舌尖触及蚝肉，柔软多汁，嗖地一下，丰富肥美的蚝肉进入口腔，绵密得宛若一个法国式深吻，有种令人窒息的冲动。” Oyster is one of France’s favorite dishes, it is a gourmet food in autumn and winter. French oyster is divided from No.0 to No.6, No.0 is the biggest and No.6 is the smallest. Oyster has high nutrition, and you have many different ways of making it – eating freshly is no doubt the highest respect for it. Squeeze some lemon juice or sour vinegar on it, and put the tempting and fresh oyster meat inside your mouth, it slowly slides down and your tongue is aroused by the taste of sea water. The strong smell fills in your whole mouth. The author of the popular book Kitchen Confidential: Adventures in the Culinary Underbelly, Anthony Bourdain once said, “Open the oyster shell, use your lip to touch the edge of it and slowly suck its flesh in, it is very juicy and the rich flesh slides down your mouth smoothly like a French kiss, which is quite intoxicating.”

法式蜗牛 Snail Restaurant – L’Escargot Montorgueil

Snails with Parsley

我们品尝的是传统的小欧芹口味的蜗牛。将欧芹的叶子、大蒜打碎，再打入固体黄油，然后把它们涂抹在蜗牛壳口，使味道慢慢渗入蜗牛肉中，并“锁”住蜗牛的汁水。再把蜗牛放入烤箱 325 ℉焗烤 15 分钟。吃蜗牛当然少不了钳子、双齿叉和白面包

L’Escargot Montorgueil is the best snail restaurant in Paris. It opened in 1832, and a lot of

条，将蜗牛的汁水倒出，与面包条一起食用，你能感受到鲜美的汁水和欧芹淡淡的味

people come here for its fame. The ancient building is quiet and comfortable, its color of design

道。用双齿叉将蜗牛肉取出，蜗牛肉味道极其鲜美，一口咬下去，满满的都是幸福感。

and decorations are based on red and brown, which highlights the sumptuousness and elegance of European architectural style; the swirling stair looks like a snail shell, and is very impressive. There are also snail patterns on glasses. Burgundy is not only the origin of wine, but also for snails. Snail is rich in nutrition and trace elements like calcium and magnesium. Because the amount of wild snails has become scarce, it has gradually become a luxury dish. The “Golden Escargot” model here is made from 24k gold, its

We choose the traditional way of making snail with parsley. Smash parsley and garlic with butter and wipe it on the opening of the shell, it will slowly infiltrate inside and reserve its juice. Roast it in an oven for fifteen minutes at 325°F. You need to have a plier, a two-prong fork sliced and white bread. Pour the juice of a freshly-roasted snail onto the bread and eat them together, you can feel the freshness of the juice and the scent of parsley.

shell and meat are all gold, very shining and stunning. Enjoy the traditional snail dish with the dim

Take the flesh out with a two-prong fork, it smells very nice, and eat it with

candle light and gentle music, here starts a romantic night and party in Paris!

one bite; the feeling of pleasure is beyond words.

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Ducks of Challans with Orange Sauce

法国卢瓦尔河地区的小镇沙朗，盛产鸭子。法国顶级料理橙味鸭，选用鸭腿和鸭胸、鸭翅进行料理，可供 2 人食用。将鸭子涂抹海盐、胡椒粉、橙子片腌制 2 小时。将橙子塞入鸭子胸膛，鸭身刷黄油和鸭油，表面放橙子皮，放入烤箱 300 ℉烤 2 小时。烤过的鸭子分两道菜呈给客人。第一道菜是鸭翅、鸭胸配橙子肉、白萝卜片，酱汁是烤鸭流出来的肉汁混合新鲜的橙汁、橙汁酒。烤鸭和橙子的香气浓烈，鸭肉外皮金黄油亮、酥脆，肉嫩多汁，味道醇厚，肥而不腻。第二道菜是鸭腿，把烤过的鸭腿用平底锅煎至外皮金黄即可。鸭腿香味浓郁，蘸着酱汁吃，外焦里嫩，有橙子的甜味，还可以搭配酸味的沙拉一起吃，味道好极了。这道菜是邻座一位越南的老爷爷向我们推荐的，他告诉我，鸭腿用手拿着吃感觉更好。这位老爷爷是这家店的老顾客了，连续 25 年每周都要来一次，还有自己的专座，每次必点这道橙味鸭。看着老爷爷用满是皱纹的手拿着鸭腿尽情享用的画面，我情不自禁地在心里为这家百年老店点赞。百年历史背后有多少动听的故事啊！人

橙香火焰可丽饼

Crêpe Suzette

们记住一家餐厅，也许是因为它一直保持原来的建筑风格，或是一道传承已久的美食，或是在此的一次浪漫的经历 ……

传说 1895 年的一个黄昏，英国威尔斯王子，也就是之后的爱德华七世与女伴来到巴黎一家咖啡店，点了这道橙酒可丽饼。然而年轻的服务员看见尊贵的客人太紧张了， Challans is a small town near Loire Valley, which is famous for its ducks. The top duck cuisine in France uses Challans duck

不小心让可丽饼上的橙酒着了火。此时，王子已经在餐桌上等待品尝这道甜点，于是，服务员尝了一下烧过的可丽饼，竟然有从未尝过的味道，情急之中，服务员将这道甜

with orange sauce. It uses duck legs, breast

点呈给了王子，果然威尔斯王子非常喜欢，并以同行的女士命名，一个传奇甜品就这

and wings to make this dish, which can be

样诞生了。

shared by two. Marinate the duck with sea salt, pepper and sliced orange, stuff a whole

这道经典的法式甜品，把橙汁、橙子酒、糖混合，然后浇在松软的可丽饼上，

orange inside its body, wipe butter and duck

放上一点橙子肉点缀，上桌前需点火。酒精因燃烧而挥发，并把果香、酒香、蛋香、

oil on its skin and cover it with orange skin.

奶香自然地融合在一起，飘散出柳橙柔和的香甜味。口感滋润多汁，是一种很具代

Roast it for two hours in the oven at 300°F. Two dishes are served to the guests.

表性，需趁热端上桌的热点心。

The first dish is duck wings and breast with orange and sliced radish, the juice comes from the roasted duck and fresh orange juice and orange wine. The fragrance of roasted duck and orange is rich, its skin is browned,

One dusk in 1895, Edward VII, the King of Great Britain went to a café with his female partner in Paris.

oily and crispy, it is tender, juicy and has a strong smell and will not be too rich. The second dish is duck leg,

He ordered the orange wine crêpe. When the crêpe was served, the young waiter was too nervous to meet

which is fried until it becomes browned outside. Dip the duck leg in the sauce, it has a fragrance of orange. You

his noble guest that he spilt the orange wine over the crepe near the fire and accidentally burnt the crepe. At

can also eat it with sour salad, it is very delicious.

the time, Edward VII was already waiting at the table, patiently looking forward to tasting this dessert. And so

A Vietnamese elderly gentleman introduced this dish to us. He told me that it would taste better if you held

the waiter tasted this crêpe in desperation and found an amazing flavor. He served this dessert to Edward VII.

the duck leg in your hand and ate it. This elderly gentleman was an acquainted customer of this restaurant,

Surprisingly, Edward VII loved it very much and gave it the name of his female companion. And this is the story

and had been coming here every week for 25 years. He even had his own seat and would order the ducks of

of Crêpe Suzette.

Challans with orange sauce every time. Watching him hold the duck leg with his wrinkled hand and enjoyed it

Mix orange juice, orange wine and sugar, and then pour them on the soft crêpe. Decorate it with some

very much, I could not help praising this store. It has a history of over a hundred years, with who knows how

orange slices. When serving it on the table, light the wine. After the alcohol burns out, the taste of fruit, wine

many stories it hides – it can be from the ancient building and decorations, or a long lasting dish, or a romantic

and egg will mix together naturally, and then the gentle fragrance of orange will spread in the air. It is a classic

relationship, and this makes the people remember…

dessert and tastes juicy, which needs to be served when it is still hot.

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2016 年 3 月 19 日 / March 19, 2016

Brunch at Ladurée

的一家面包店，1871 年的一场火灾后改巴黎著名的拉杜丽甜品店

成了糕点铺。19 世纪末，著名海报设计师朱尔斯 · 谢雷特（Jules Cheret）负责新店铺的装饰，他从教堂和歌剧院的天花板得到了灵感，有了小天使的装饰设计，拉杜丽的风格由此诞生。1996 年到 1998 年，这里的主厨是糕点界的大明星皮尔 · 艾尔梅（Pierre Hermé），他的想法大胆、新颖，在马卡龙最初的巧克力、咖啡、覆盆子和香草等主要口味的基础上，增加了很多奇妙的混合口味，成为法式生活艺术的标志和马卡龙的鼻祖。来巴黎前，我提前预约了周六的早午餐，即早餐加午餐，早午餐通常只有周六或周日早上十点到下午三点才有。每位 49 欧元，种类很多。三层甜品架上摆满了面包、酸奶、马卡龙、多种口味的果酱，顶层是巧克力蛋糕、马卡龙，甜度偏高，适

巴黎著名的拉杜丽甜品店

合最后食用；中间有新鲜的迷你可颂、巧克力可颂、甜酥式面包、早餐包，搭配多种果酱、蜂蜜或者黄油；下面摆满了迷你三明治和自制酸奶。黄油是用马达加斯加香草巴黎著名的拉杜丽甜品店（Ladurée）创

籽与黄油混合而成，搭配不同口味的面包无疑是一种享受！果酱种类很多，用小瓶子

建于 1862 年，它在世界各地的甜品爱好者心

装着，有黑加仑、香橙、草莓、杏子味，甜度适中，还能嚼到碎碎的果粒。奶酪拼盘

中的地位无可动摇。在巴黎有多家分店，香

中的切达干酪质地相对坚实，口感柔和；孔泰奶酪是一种古老的法国奶酪，特别硬，

榭丽舍大道上的分店主色调是粉绿描金，这

吃起来很香；洛克福奶酪是羊奶蓝莓干酪的一种，味道咸香。

种颜色遍布于大门、天花板、墙角线，据说

鸡蛋、蘑菇沙拉中间是个煮了 4 分钟的溏心蛋，外面裹着细细的面包屑炸成金黄

这种绿色是玛丽皇后最爱的颜色。店内银质

色。西班牙辣味小香肠切成小丁，煎出香味后加入小蘑菇一起翻炒，有点咸味。搭配

的茶壶、顶级的英国红茶、手工画作、厚重

的酱汁是欧芹和黄油混合制成的。用叉子轻轻戳破金黄色的蛋，诱人的、温热的蛋黄

的窗帘、古老的饰品等很多细节都能让人想

就慢慢地流出来了，把蘑菇、火腿蘸着蛋液一起食用，在味觉、视觉上都是一种极其

起百年前奢华的宫廷生活。我觉得，来巴黎，

美好的享受。

不去拉杜丽，就白来了。 1862 年，拉杜丽还只是巴黎皇家路上

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把法式面包放在搅拌均匀的蛋液、牛奶、糖中泡一小会儿，用平底锅把面包煎至两面金黄做成法式烤吐司，搭配水果、枫树糖浆、奶油食用。面包外皮酥脆，里面松

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软，奶香浓郁，微甜。拉杜丽甜品店的茶也很有名。水果红茶选用中国和锡兰上好的红茶，加入香料、柠檬干、

is a mixture of abundant Madagascar vanilla seed and butter, it has a special flavor and can go perfectly with soft or crispy bread. There are various jams in mini bottles, it has blackcurrant, orange, strawberry and almond flavor; it is not too sweet and you can chew the pulp in it. The cheese plate is filled with hard cheddar cheese, which tastes gentle and is not too salty; old

干玫瑰，茶里的一丝酸味与早午餐很相配。我

French Comté cheese, which is very hard and smells very nice; and the salted Roquefort cheese,

们从中午开始体验巴黎的早午餐，阳光暖暖的，

which tastes nicely, can also be had.

各种甜蜜的味道在口中弥漫，精美的甜点让我无以言表。早午餐套餐中每人的分量和品种很

In the middle of the egg and mushroom salad lays a poached egg, which is boiled for four minutes and covered with breadcrumbs. Cut the spicy Spanish pastrami into dices, fry them with little wild mushrooms, it is a bit salty, add parsley and butter sauce in it. Poke the golden egg with

多，吃不完可以打包，包装袋子是浅粉色和绿

a fork, and the hot and tempting liquid comes out, dip the mushroom and pastrami in it, this is a

色，清新而淡雅。拉杜丽甜品店还推出了同名

pleasure to be had.

的化妆品、丝巾、钥匙扣等。

Brunch at Ladurée

Soak French toast in egg, milk and sugar, fry it until both sides become browned. Eat it with fruit, maple syrup and cream. It is soft and its skin is crispy, it is a bit sweet and has a strong fragrance of milk. Tea at Ladurée is popular as well. Their choice, fruit black tea is from high-quality black tea in China and Ceylon. Add spices, vanilla, dried lemon and dried rose in it, a little sourness

The popular top class dessert store Ladurée was founded in 1862 by Les Marquis de Ladurée, which is among the top list of many dessert lovers over the world. It has many chain stores in Paris, the one in Champs-Elysées Road is decorated by light green with a golden lining, this color is widely used in its front door, ceiling and the wall corner line. This green is said to be Queen Marie’s favorite color. The silver tea pot, high-quality British black tea, paintings, heavy curtains and ancient decoration – every detail will bring you back to the elegant and luxurious royal life over a hundred years ago. If you come to Paris, you must go to Ladurée; otherwise, the

goes well with brunch. Here we experienced the culture of French brunch at noon. A thread of sunlight shone through, and it was very warm. Drinking a cup of black tea or coffee, we tasted and appreciated every dish. Different kinds of sweet flavor haunted our mouths. I cannot use words to adequately describe the exquisiteness, delicateness, prettiness and perfection of every dessert. The quantity and variety in the sets are quite large for one person, and if you cannot finish, you can take them home. The take-away bag gave me a surprise, it was light pink and green, very fresh and polished. They also sell cosmetics, silk scarves and keychains with Ladurée’s name.

trip to Paris will not be complete. Ladurée ran a bread store on Royal Road in 1862, it was later changed into a patisserie because of a fire in 1871. At the end of the nineteenth century, the famous post designer Jules Cheret was in charge of the design of this new store. He got inspiration from the ceiling of a church and an opera house, and decided to decorate it with little angel images. This became the style of Ladurée. Between 1996 and 1998, a super star in the dessert field, Pierre Hermé, was the chef here. His design was bold and creative. He added new flavors into the original chocolate, coffee, raspberry and vanilla macaron, which later was recognized as the symbol of French life and art, and he himself was regarded as the father of macaron. I booked brunch on Saturday in advance. Brunch is served only on Saturdays or Sundays from 10am to 3pm. Each person is charged 49 euros and the type of brunch is varied. Bread, yogurt, macaron and different jams are served on a three-layer plate. On the top are chocolate cakes and macaron, which are very sweet and can be eaten last; in the middle are freshlybaked croissant, chocolate croissant, sweet and crispy bread, breakfast bread with jam, honey and butter; at the bottom are mini sandwiches and homemade yogurt. French traditional butter

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2016 年 3 月 19 日 / March 19, 2016

Café de la Paix

百年老店和平咖啡馆

Café de la Paix Café de la Paix is located on the opposite side of the grandiose square of the Paris Opera House. It opened in 1862 and has a history of over 150 years. It is also recognized as a historic heritage of France. A lot of artists, writers, journalists, actors, businessmen and tourists came here for its fame, among whom were Jules Massenet, Emile Zola and Guy de Maupassant. When the French army recaptured Paris in World War II, French President and General DeGaulle drank the first cup of “swilling Paris” coffee here. Since then, every French president has come here more than once. Café de la Paix is divided in two parts: the dining hall and café bar. When walking into the dining room, it is like walking into the Paris Opera House or the Louvre Museum, the baroque design is royal and elegant. You need to book the restaurant in advance. There are seats in the open air, where you can sit near the street, drink coffee and read the newspaper, and enjoying your lunch or dinner here; you can also leisurely watch people and car bustling along the street and experience the unique atmosphere in Paris. Because we wanted to visit the opera house, we postponed the dining appointment twice. When we finally arrived, we were glad to meet its manager and talked with him. He told us that because more and more Chinese came here to visit, they decided to add Chinese dim sum to their menu and as such increase the diversity. We made a deal that if we came here next time, we

百年老店和平咖啡馆

would taste them all.

和平咖啡馆（Café de la Paix）位于巴黎歌剧院对面，1862 年开业，至今有 150 多年历史，被列为法国历史古迹。无数艺术家、作家、记者、演员、商人及游客都曾来过这里，其中包括儒勒 · 马斯内、埃米尔 · 左拉和居伊· 德· 莫泊桑。第二次世界大战后法军收复巴黎，总统戴高乐将军“痛饮巴黎”的第一杯咖啡就是在这里。后来，历届法国总统都不止一次来过这里。和平咖啡馆分为餐厅和咖啡馆两部分。走入餐厅，如同走入了巴黎歌剧院或是罗浮宫，巴洛克式设计风格，宫廷般的优雅而高贵，餐厅需提前预约。还有露天咖啡座，可以临街而坐，喝着咖啡，看看报纸，享受午餐或晚餐，悠闲地欣赏过往的人潮与车水马龙，感受巴黎的气息。我们因想去歌剧院参观，连续两次更改用餐时间后如约来到和平咖啡馆。我很荣幸地见到了餐厅经理，并与他攀谈。他告诉我，因为来旅游的中国客人很多，餐厅将推出中国早茶。我们约定，下次来法国巴黎的时候一定要品尝这里的早茶。

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海胆蛋羹

French Baguette

Scrambled Eggs and Sea Urchin, Gratinated with Champagne

法棍（Baguette）的原意是长条形的宝

将海胆和鸡蛋液混合，加入盐、白

石。法棍以面粉、水、盐和酵母为基本原

胡椒、百里香调味，再炒至软烂、金

料，通常不加糖、乳粉、油，成品大约每

黄。将香槟酒和虾汁混合打成泡沫。柔

条长 76 厘米，重 250 克，还规定斜切必

软、顺滑的鸡蛋搭配海胆的腥味，再融

须有 7 道裂口才标准，表皮松脆有韧性，

合香槟泡沫的味道在嘴里慢慢散开，很

里面柔软，越嚼越香，充满麦香味。法棍

轻盈，味道很美妙！

是法国人的主食，可以搭配沙拉、奶酪、 Mix the sea urchin with egg and season with salt, white pepper and thyme. Fry until they become soft

黄油食用，现烤出来的法棍非常好吃！

and golden. Mix champagne with shrimp juice until foamy. The soft scrambled eggs, mixed with sea urchin and

Baguette originally means long and precious gem. It is made from flour, water, salt and yeast. Normally,

infused with champagne foam spreads slowly in your mouth, it is very light and marvelous.

we do not need to add sugar, milk power or oil in it. Each baguette is about 76cm and 250g, which must be cut obliquely seven times. It is chewy and crispy outside and soft inside; the more you chew, the nicer it smells, it is full of the fragrance of wheat. Baguette to French is what rice to Chinese, they eat it with salad, cheese or butter. The freshly-baked baguette tastes very nice!

法式鹅肝

Le Foie Gras of Café de la Paix

法国鹅肝是一种从被过分喂养的鹅身上取出来的肝。鹅经过挑选，以“填鸭式”

法式洋葱汤

喂麦、玉米、脂肪和盐为主的混合饲料。春天出生的鹅，秋天时每天被喂一公斤以

French Onion Soup

上的混合饲料，并持续四周，直到鹅的肝被撑大为止。鹅肝营养价值高，被欧洲人

这家店的洋葱汤从 1862 年开始一直保持着原始的味道。法式洋葱汤是一道非常经典的汤，做法是：用牛棒骨、各种香料熬 4 个小时制成牛肉高汤，再加入用黄油炒软的洋葱丝，以小火炖煮 20 分钟，直到洋葱软烂呈深棕色，撒上马苏里拉奶酪，再放入烤箱 350 ℉烤 12 分钟。奶酪在高温的作用下慢慢地和浓郁的洋葱汤融

列为“世界三大美食”之一。法式冻鹅肝是和平咖啡馆的招牌菜，搭配金黄的炸土豆片和黑橄榄碎、胡椒粉，上面晶莹剔透的那一层是鹅油冷却后形成的。鹅肝口感醇厚、细腻、柔滑，入口即化，味道非常好。 French goose liver is taken from an overfed

合。这是我第一次喝洋葱汤，味道浓重，虽说在口感上有些不习惯，但与面包搭配

goose, which needs to be chosen specifically. They are

在一起，感觉还不错。

stuffed with wheat, corn, fat and salt. When the springborn geese grows up in the autumn, they are fed with The onion soup in this store remains and has kept its original recipe since 1862. French onion soup is a very classic dish in France. First, cook the beef bone, thyme and other spices for four hours to make a traditional French beef soup. Fry onion shreds with butter, and then add them in and boil for 20 minutes until onions soften and are browned. Spread Mozzarella cheese and roast it for twelve minutes in the oven at 350°F. The delicious cheese melts into the thick onion soup gradually under high temperature. This is my first time tasting onion soup. Even though I did not get used to the flavor

at least one kilo of forage every single day. It lasts for four weeks until their liver gets bloated. Because goose liver has rich nutrition, it is regarded as one of the “World’s Three Precious Food” along with caviar and truffle. Frozen foie gras is the specialty of Café de la Paix, it is added with golden fries, shredded black olive and high-quality pepper. The crystal jelly on top is frozen from geese’s oil. Goose liver tastes creamy and smooth and melts immediately in your mouth. Fat goose liver is the ultimate dish on the table.

immediately, it was a nice choice to eat with bread.

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香煎小牛肉

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Roast Marinated Veal

小牛肉是指生长 22 周，体重在 150 千克之内的牛犊。主要用乳制品饲料喂养，其肉色呈粉红色，比一般的牛肉颜色淡，脂肪含量低，有特殊的香味，肉嫩、有弹性，纹理分明。用盐之花、黑胡椒给小牛肉调味，真空包装后以 136 ℉的水低温炖煮 8 小时，再放入烤箱烤，使小牛肉表皮迅速上色，肉质变紧。取烤肉的汁加入肉桂、红辣椒、香菜籽调味，制成浓郁的酱汁。配菜是煎土豆和胡萝卜。小牛肉嫩滑、纤维细腻，不需刀切，用叉子可以轻松地将肉一丝丝地分开，带少许脂肪的小牛肉味道更好。 Veal is the meat from a cattle, which usually grows for 22 weeks and weights within 150 kilograms. It is fed with dairy products, its flesh is pink, lighter than other beef. It has less fat and a special smell. Veal is tender and elastic, and its texture is very clear. Marinate it with flower salt and black pepper, seal it in vacuum bag and boil it for eight hours at 136°F water. Roast it in an oven after boiling, its color will quickly change and the meat will become tighter. Mix the roasted veal juice with cinnamon, red chili and parsley seed and make a thick sauce. Garnish with fried potato and carrot side. The veal tastes tender, delicate and very fresh. You do not need to cut it with knife as it easily falls apart with a fork. The veal with a little bit of fat is really quite delicious.

低温炖猪里脊肉

Sous-vide Pork from Oteiza

将猪里脊肉以 136 ℉的水低温慢煮 45 分钟，再搭配很多蔬菜。摆盘很有趣，像个秘密花园，里面有迷你圆白菜、洋葱、板栗、海苔等。猪肉的口感有点像中国家

炖羊肉配松露、玉米饼

常炖煮的排骨肉，滑嫩、软烂、香浓，汁水丰富。海苔略带咸味，板栗软糯、香甜。

Aldudes Lamb with Truffled Polenta and Comté

整道菜给人一种很神秘的感觉。 Take the best part of a pork fillet, cook it in a low temperature for 45 minutes at 136°F,

把羊肉块放在炖煮牛排的肉汁里浸泡 3 小时，捞出后撒盐、胡椒粉，外表沾上一层花生碎，用黄油中火煎至外皮金黄，里面为粉红色。羊肉十分软烂，没有膻味。

and garnish with vegetables. The design

搭配一个塞满了肉馅的玉米馅饼，上面放法式干酪，玉米和肉馅的味道很香，略有

makes it like a secret garden, which includes

一丝甜味。

mini cabbage, onion, chestnut and sea weed. The pork fillet tastes like Chinese homemade spareribs, it is juicy, tender and smells very nice. It is a little bit salty with sea weed, and the chestnut tastes soft and sweet. This dish has a mysterious feeling.

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Marinate the lamb chunk in steak juice for three hours, add salt and pepper, cover it with a layer of peanut crumbs and fry it over medium heat until it turns brown outside and pink inside. The lamb tastes very soft and does not have a gamy odor. Stuff the tortilla with the lamb, add French cheese and comté, you can smell the fragrance and taste the sweetness of the corn and lamb tortilla.

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美丽的深圳，我的家 Lovely Shenzhen, My Hometown

中国深圳位于珠江口东岸，毗邻香港，是一座充满活力的海滨城市，四季温润，景色宜人。深圳是中国改革开放的窗口，中国第一个经济特区，国际化大都市，是一个独具文化魅力的创新城市。深圳也是一座移民城市。来自中国各地的人们，带来了自己家乡的味道；来自世界各地的朋友，带来了他们的美食烹饪。 2016 年暑假，经过多次努力，我终于联系到深圳最著名的五星级酒店，采访他们的意大利餐厅和法国餐厅。我先后采访了深圳威尼斯睿途酒店的意大利餐厅 Blue、深圳华侨城洲际酒店的法国餐厅 Pipette、深圳益田威斯汀酒店的扒房 Grange Grill、深圳大中华喜来登酒店的意大利餐厅 Mezzo，还参加了由深圳威尼斯睿途酒店的意大利餐厅邀请的六位星级厨师见面活动。来自法国、意大利、澳洲、加拿大的星级名厨和中国的西餐主厨们给我带来了美妙的西餐体验。

Shenzhen is located on the east coast of the Pearl River, very close to Hong Kong. It is a lovely costal city with a warm climate throughout all four seasons, it is very sunny and has a splendid view. Shenzhen is the window of China’s policy of Reform and Opening-up, it is the first special economic zone in China and an international metropolitan city with pioneering fashion and a unique culture. Shenzhen is a city of immigrants. People from all over the world immigrate and bring their own food culture here, foreign friends bring their cooking skills here as well. During my summer vacation of 2016, I spared no efforts in contacting the most popular fivestar hotels in Shenzhen and interviewing their chefs about Italian and French cuisine. I interviewed the chefs at the Blue Italian Seafood and Grill restaurant of the Venice Raytour Hotel, the Pipette Restaurant of the Intercontinental Hotel, the Italian Mezzo Restaurant of the Sheraton Hotel, and the Grange Grill Westin Hotel; I also attended a meeting with six superstar chefs invited by the Italian restaurant of the Venice Raytour Hotel. These chefs came from France, Italy, Australia, Canada and China, and brought to me the experience and enjoyment of Western cuisine and its culture.

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2016 年 7 月 1 日 / July 1, 2016

Shenzhen Blue Italian Seafood & Grill Restaurant of the Venice Raytour Hotel

深圳威尼斯睿途酒店的意大利餐厅

Town Company (OCT) with the theme of Venetian culture. Its company Blue Italian Restaurant is designed with a blue Mediterranean style, it has a private room and a wine cellar full of the most coveted wines from around the world. The lobby is spacious and bright. Through the window, you can see the giant ivory sail and the outdoor swimming pool. The blue water shines and ripples, I felt like I was sitting in a gondola and floating on the Venice River. The intoxicating fragrance of wine, the blue sea and sky entices the imagination, you can come with family or friends and enjoy the wonderful Italian cuisine here.

热情的意大利主厨安东尼诺·斯科多 2016 年 1 月 18 日，意大利厨师安东尼诺 · 斯科多（Antonino Scordo）正式成为威尼斯睿途酒店意大利餐厅的主厨，大家亲切地称他尼诺。他来自意大利西西里岛，有 20 多年的烹饪经验，曾荣获“最佳主菜单厨师”的称号。在中国比萨大师赛中获

深圳威尼斯睿途酒店的意大利餐厅深圳威尼斯睿途酒店是华侨城国际酒店管理公司首家以威尼斯文化为主题的五星级商务酒店。旗下意大利餐厅 Blue 为迷人的地中海风格，主色调是蔚蓝色，有一个包间和一个储存着全球各种名酒的酒窖。大厅宽敞明亮，透过玻璃窗可以看见楼下乳白色的巨大船帆笼罩下的空中户外泳池，蔚蓝色的池水波光粼粼，我仿佛乘着贡多拉小舟荡漾在威尼斯河上。浆果酒香，碧海蓝天，和家人、朋友在这里享受意大利美食，度过浪漫的时光。

Shenzhen Blue Italian Seafood & Grill Restaurant of the Venice Raytour Hotel The Venice Raytour Hotel is the first five-star business hotel run by an Overseas Chinese

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of Pizza”. He is good at making and creating seafood, beef and various sauces. His dishes are injected with passion, creation and the marrow of traditional Italian cuisine, which has been praised by many people. It is hard to book an appointment with the chefs, so this was a precious opportunity for me to interview Nino. He is very young, tall and handsome. His eyes are passionate when talking to people. He knows some Chinese, so it is easier for us to communicate. He loves Shenzhen and has many Chinese friends here. He brings traditional Italian food to Shenzhen and blends it with Chinese cuisine elements. I told him that I went to Italy once, it was beautiful there and I knew how to sing the song “O Sole Mio (Oh, My Sun)”. I like Italian food and football.

得冠军，被称为“冠军比萨大师”。他擅长烹饪海鲜、牛肉、各种酱汁，融入意大利传统美食的精髓，并不断创新，制作出很多令人赞叹的意大利菜。在国外，我很难与餐厅的主厨见面，所以与尼诺的见面难能可贵。他很年轻，身材高大健硕，非常帅，灵动的眼睛像会说话似的。我们互相自我介绍，然后像许久没有见面的老朋友一样聊了起来。我发现他会说一些中文；喜欢深圳，有很多中国朋友；他做的意大利菜也融入了中国的元素。我说我去过意大利，意大利很美；我会唱意大利歌曲《我的太阳》；喜欢吃意大利菜，喜欢意大利足球。

Friendly Italian Chef Antonino Scordo Antonino Scordo started his post in the Venice Raytour Hotel on January 18th, 2016 and became the chef of the Blue Italian Restaurant. Everyone calls him Nino for short. Nino comes from Sicily and has more than 20 years of cooking experience. He once won the award of “The Best Menu Chef” and took first place in a pizza competition in China, he is called the “Master

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鲜虾、蘑菇塔塔配双色鱼子酱 Seafood Mushroom Tartare with Caviar

材料：九节虾虾仁 4 只、鱼子酱、去籽红辣椒 1 个、杏鲍菇碎、香草塔塔底 4 个、特质虾酱 30 克 ( 用虾头、虾壳、虾膏熬制 )、马苏里拉奶酪 30 克、芝麻菜、第戎芥末酱、淡奶油、蒜蓉、盐、黑胡椒、橄榄油做法：1. 炒香杏鲍菇碎，加入盐、黑胡椒、橄榄油、淡奶油，以大火煮 15 ～ 20 分钟，装盘，上面放一层马苏里拉奶酪，再放入烤箱 150℃烤 1 分钟，做成蘑菇酱。 2. 热锅，放入用油泡的蒜蓉和 1 个去籽的红辣椒，然后放九节虾虾仁煎至红色，再加入虾酱。 3. 取玻璃盘，分别在 4 个小蝶中放入芝麻菜和第戎芥末酱，再放上香草塔塔底、蘑菇酱，摆上虾仁，其中两个塔塔上面放黑色和红色的鱼子酱，另外两个塔塔放第戎芥末酱。 Ingredient：four piece of shrimp, caviar,one red chili without seed, shredded king trumpet mushroom, four vanilla tarts, shrimp sauce 30g (made from shrimp head, shell and cream), Mozzarella cheese 30g, rocket salad, Dijon yellow mustard, light cream, garlic, salt, black pepper, olive oil Method: 1. Fry king trumpet mushroom, add salt, black pepper, olive oil and light cream in and cook them for 15-20 minutes over high heat. Put it on a plate, put a layer of Mozzarella cheese on top and roast it in oven for one minute at 150°C. 2. Preheat the pan, put the marinated garlic and one chili on it, fry the shrimp meat until it becomes red, and then pour shrimp sauce in. 3. Take out a glass plate, put rocket salad and Dijon yellow mustard in four different plates, put four vanilla tarts, mushroom sauce and shrimp in it. Then decorate two of them with black and red caviar and the other two with Dijon yellow mustard.

小胖点评蘑菇酱和虾酱不仅起调味作用，还丰富了这道菜的口感。奶酪在高温下与蘑菇酱融合，散发出诱人的香气。鱼子酱的细腻和咸味，突出虾的鲜甜，第戎芥末酱口感顺滑、微酸。整道菜用透明的玻璃器皿搭配色彩丰富的食材，摆盘很漂亮，有新鲜、刺激和兴奋的感觉。 My Comment: The mushroom sauce and shrimp sauce season the dish and make it richer. When the cheese melts with mushroom sauce under high temperature, it smells very nice. The delicateness and saltiness of the caviar improve the freshness and sweetness of the shrimp. Tartare with yellow mustard tastes very smooth and a bit sour. The design looks pretty with colorful ingredients held in the transparent glass plate, which looks fresh, thrilling and exciting.

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帕尔玛火腿配水牛奶酪 Prosciutto di Parma with Buffalo Mozzarella

材料：帕尔玛火腿 3 片、球状水牛奶酪 1 个、杏鲍菇、小番茄、芝麻菜、面包两片、第戎芥末酱、大蒜、银鱼柳、盐、黑胡椒、橄榄油、淡奶油、黑橄榄、紫苏酱做法：1. 将新鲜黑橄榄放入烤箱中烘烤去除水分，加入大蒜、银鱼柳、盐、黑胡椒打成橄榄酱。将杏鲍菇碎炒香，加入盐、黑胡椒、橄榄油、淡奶油大火煮 15 ～ 20 分钟，做成蘑菇酱。将番茄切成丁，加入橄榄油、黑胡椒、紫苏酱拌匀，做成番茄丁酱。 2. 球状水牛奶酪切成两半，红色小番茄切成两半。 3. 把帕尔玛火腿片用手指卷成筒状，并使其立在盘中。旁边放 2 块水牛奶酪、2 片面包，面包上可以放橄榄酱、蘑菇酱或番茄丁酱，用第戎芥末酱和芝麻菜点缀。 Ingredient：three pieces of prosciutto di parma, one buffalo Mozzarella, king trumpet mushroom, one mini tomato, rocket salad, two pieces of bread, Dijon mustard, garlic, whitebait fillet, salt, black pepper, olive oil, light cream, black olive, perilla sauce Method: 1. Roast black olive in oven and make it dry, then add garlic, whitebait fillet, salt and pepper and smash them to make sauce. Fry king trumpet mushroom, add salt, black pepper, olive oil and light cream in, cook it for 15-20 minutes over high heat and make mushroom sauce. Cut the tomato into dices, add olive oil, black pepper and perilla sauce inside and mix them up. 2. Cut the ball-shaped buffalo cheese and the tomato in half. 3. Roll prosciutto di Parma with fingers and make them stand on plate. Put two pieces of Buffalo Mozzarella and bread at the side, wipe olive sauce, mushroom sauce or tomato sauce on them and decorate them with Dijon mustard and rocket salad.

小胖点评橄榄酱、蘑菇酱、番茄丁酱需提前准备，蘑菇酱香气浓郁，番茄丁酱酸甜中有紫苏的味道，橄榄酱咸中有蒜香味。薄如蝉翼的帕尔玛火腿片咸咸的，很轻盈；水牛奶酪温润而有奶香，回甘持久。这是一道传统的意大利菜。 My Comment: We needed to prepare the olive sauce, mushroom sauce and tomato sauce in advance. The scent of mushroom sauce is very rich; the sweet and sour tomato sauce has a fragrance of perilla; and you can taste the odor of salted garlic in the olive sauce. The prosciutto di Parma is as thin and translucent as the cicada’s wings. The Buffalo Mozzarella is smooth and milky, swirling in your mouth. This is a traditional Italian cuisine.

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意大利牛肝菌饺子配牛肝菌番茄汁 Porcini Ravioli with Tomato Sauce

材料：面粉、橄榄油、意大利烟熏火腿、蒜蓉、小番茄、意大利牛肝菌、白葡萄酒、淡奶油、瑞可塔奶酪、番茄汁、盐做法：1. 自制饺子皮，将炒香的牛肝菌和瑞可塔奶酪打碎搅拌制成饺子馅，然后做成饺子并煮熟。 2. 热锅，放入橄榄油烧热，炒香切碎的意大利烟熏火腿、蒜蓉，再放入切开的小番茄、牛肝菌炒香后喷点白葡萄酒，加入番茄汁和淡奶油以小火收汁，放盐调味，做成酱汁。把煮好的饺子放入酱汁中拌匀。 Ingredient：flour, olive oil, prosciutto, garlic, mini tomato, Italian porcini, white wine, light cream, ricotta cheese, tomato sauce, salt Method: 1. The skin of the ravioli is handmade, the stuffing is made from the mixture of fried porcini and ricotta cheese. Boil water and put ravioli in. 2. Put the pan on fire, put olive oil, prosciutto pieces, garlic, tomato and porcini in. Fry them for a while and pour white wine, tomato sauce and light cream inside, switch to low heat and add salt in it. Mix ravioli with the prepared sauce.

小胖点评意大利饺子通常用机器加工而成，将和好的面用机器压成一长条，放好馅，面的边缘涂抹水，上面再放一条相同大小的面片并压好，然后用刀切开。而手工包意大利饺子时不需捏很多皱褶。意大利水饺多用奶酪、洋葱、蛋黄，或菠菜、牛肉，或奶酪、土豆泥，或蘑菇、奶酪等为馅儿。意大利水饺还要搭配各种酱汁，如蘑菇汁、奶油汁、番茄汁等。 My Comment: Italian ravioli is usually made with a machine. Press the dough into a long line with machine, put stuffing inside. Dip water on the brink of the skin, cover it with another roll of skin, and then cut it with a knife. Handmade ravioli does not need to have ruffles. Ravioli stuffing is usually made from cheese, onion and egg yolk, spinach and beef, cheese and smashed potato, or mushroom and cheese. It can go with various sauces like mushroom sauce, cream and tomato sauce.

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杏仁冻糕 Almond Panna Cotta

材料：杏仁 300 克、糖、蜂蜜 250 克、淡奶油 500 克、鸡蛋 4 个、甜筒、可可粉、糖粉、水果粒、少许水做法：1. 将杏仁、200 克糖、蜂蜜、少许水放入平底锅熬至糖熔化并拉出丝，然后倒入平盘中，冷却后剁碎，做成焦糖杏仁。 2. 在淡奶油中加入 10 克糖打发。在 4 个鸡蛋液中加入 10 克糖打发，然后加入剁碎的焦糖杏仁拌匀，接着放入打发的奶油，用打蛋器打匀，最后装入模具冷却。 3. 摆盘，放杏仁冻糕和甜筒，淋上巧克力酱，撒可可粉和糖粉，用水果粒装饰。 Ingredient：almond 300g, sugar, honey 250g, light cream 500g, four eggs, cornet, cocoa, sugar powder, fruit dice, little water Method: 1. Put almond, 200g sugar, honey and little water in the pan and fry them until they become mushy, move them to a plate, cut them into shreds and make caramel almond. 2. Whip light cream with 10g sugar. Whip four eggs with 10g sugar, whisk it with caramel almond shreds, pour whipped cream in and whisk with an eggbeater. Then put them in the mold and let them cool. 3. Take the almond panna cotta out and put them in the middle of the plate and top with cornet, chocolate jam, cocoa, sugar powder and fruit dice.

小胖点评甜点是西餐料理的最后一步，其口感和甜美的感觉给食客留下深刻的印象。杏仁冻糕甜而细腻，有弹性，奶味和杏仁味很凸出，搭配的水果粒让甜品的口感更加美妙。 My Comment: Dessert is the last course and its taste and delicacy will leave a deep impression on the guests. Almond panna cotta is delicate, sweet and bouncy, the fragrance of milk and almond is quite strong with the sourness and sweetness from the fruit, what a rich and wonderful taste!

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Ingredient：custard powder 20g, milk, cream, semola powder 20g, cinnamon, cocoa, sugar, butter, sugar, almond powder 77.5g, sugar powder 127.5g, egg white 75g, food pigment Method: 1. Cream sauce: put custard powder in blending machine, add milk and a little cream. 2. Cream crust: mix semola powder, cinnamon and cocoa, boil butter and sugar above water in a plate until it melts. Whisk them together and knead the dough, roll them into thin skin. Put them in the mold, then roll and fry them in oil. 3. Macaron: ① Mix almond powder and sugar powder, put them in food grinder and grind for two minutes, then drain it in a colander; ② Use eggbeater to whip egg white until it is foamed, add sugar and whip again, then add a little food pigment and make it colorful. Whip egg white, lift the eggbeater and you can see an erect triangle. Put almond powder and sugar powder inside. Use a scraper to whisk it from the bottom to the top, lift the scraper and you can see the egg white cream descend slowly and lightly like a ribbon; ③ Put it in the piping bag, squeeze a 3cm-diameter circle paste from a small hole on the silica gel plate. Let it dry and wait until a hard crust forms, and then put it on the lower layer of the oven and roast for fourteen minutes at 165°C. Then take it out and let it cool; ④ Put vanilla, fruit, raspberry, lemon and passion fruit stuffing in different piping bags. Squeeze stuffing on the flat side of one macaron and then cover it with another piece of macaron. When the smell of almond powder and the stuffing mix perfectly, it is ready to eat. 4. Pour cream on the plate, break the cream crust and spread the crumbs on the cream, then use chocolate, fruit dice, macaron and mint as decoration, sprinkle sugar powder at last.

西西里奶油卷 Sicily Cream Roll

材料：吉士粉 20 克、牛奶、奶油、三文尼那粉 20 克、玉桂粉、可可粉、黄油、糖、

小胖点评上述材料是餐厅的用量。西西里奶油卷是一道难度较高的甜品，摆盘漂亮极了，像一座巧克力城堡，粉红色的马卡龙是城堡的主人，最后撒上的糖粉增加了童话色彩。马卡龙颜色鲜艳，甜腻，外酥里嫩；奶油脆皮口感香脆；水果粒增强了甜蜜感。

杏仁粉 77.5 克、糖粉 127.5 克、蛋清 75 克、食用色素做法：1. 将吉士粉倒入搅拌机中，慢慢加入牛奶，再放少许奶油，做成奶油酱。

My Comment: The amount of ingredients in the recipe is usually served for restaurants. This is a very complicated and difficult dessert,

2. 将三文尼那粉、玉桂粉、可可粉混合，加入隔水溶化的黄油、白糖拌匀，

the decoration looks very pretty like a chocolate castle. The pink macaron looks like the master of the castle and the sprinkled

揉成面团，擀成薄皮，用模具刻好，卷起来放入油里炸，做成奶油脆皮。

sugar powder makes you feel like you are in a fairytale world. The macaron is colorful and sweet, it is crispy outside and tender

3. 马卡龙做法：

inside; the cream crust smells very nice, and the fruit dice adds softness and sweetness.

①将杏仁粉和糖粉混合，放入料理机里研磨 2 分钟后过筛。 ②将蛋清用打蛋器打至粗泡状态，放入糖搅打，加入可食用色素染色，提起打蛋器，蛋清能拉出一个直立的尖角，放入杏仁粉和糖粉。用橡皮刮刀从底部往上翻拌均匀，提起刮刀，蛋清糊呈带状往下飘落。 ③将蛋清糊装进裱花袋，用小号圆孔裱花嘴在硅胶板上挤出直径为 3 厘米的圆形面糊，风干，形成了一层硬壳时再放入烤箱中下层 165℃烤 14 分钟，取出冷却，做成马卡龙的外壳。 ④马卡龙馅有巧克力、树莓、香草、柠檬、百香果等多种口味，将馅料装入裱花袋，用小号裱花嘴将馅料挤在马卡龙壳的平面上，再盖上另一个马卡龙壳。静置，杏仁粉的香气和馅料的味道完全融合，便可食用。 4. 摆盘，先淋奶油酱，再将奶油脆皮压破插在奶油酱上，用巧克力、水果粒、马卡龙、薄荷叶装饰，最后撒上糖粉。

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2016 年 7 月 3 日 / July 3, 2016

Intercontinental Hotel Shenzhen – Pipette Restaurant

From the guards’ uniform, the bullring scenery to

深圳华侨城洲际酒店的法国餐厅

the decorative background of the Mayor Plaza in Madrid, the impression was very vivid. A Spanish boat built in real proportions stands in the way of the road to the lobby, giving a strong visual impact on the guests. Pipette Restaurant is regarded as one of the best 50 restaurants in China, “pipette” means a red wine measuring container in French. They have spacious and transparent windows, black and white dining hall, and exquisite tableware. There are two VIP rooms and a very large wine cellar. You can enjoy the French cuisine and the noble, fashionable, romantic and meticulous service here. What interested me is the $3.5 million RMB handcrafted crimson Molteni cooking stove in their kitchen, which is among one of the four top European kitchens equipment in the world.

西餐主厨许玮深圳华侨城洲际酒店的法国餐厅在五星级酒店中有很多西餐主厨是中国人，他们不断地学习并探索更高超的西餐烹饪技艺。许玮，南昌人，32 岁，西餐高级厨师，有 17 年的工作经历，曾在国深圳华侨城洲际酒店是国内首家以白金五星级标准建造的西班牙风情主题酒店，

内多家著名的五星级酒店西餐厅工作。2011 年始任深圳华侨城洲际酒店法国餐厅的

从门童制服、斗牛场到马德里著名的市长广场都惟妙惟肖，一艘与实物同样大小的西

厨师长，他与很多外国主厨一起研究西餐的食材、配料，注重每个细节，详细地记

班牙仿真帆船摆放于通往酒店大堂的车道上，给人以强烈的视觉冲击。

录西餐的食谱，将中国的元素融入西餐中，为我们带来了美食的享受。

酒店的法国餐厅 Pipette 被列入中国最佳 50 餐厅，“pipette”在法语中的意思是一种用来计量葡萄酒的容器。宽大透明的玻璃窗、黑白组合的餐厅设计、精致的餐

Chinese Chef Wei Xu

具，餐厅有两间贵宾房，也有深度窖藏酒廊。在这里，可以尽享法国菜肴，体验尊贵、时尚、浪漫和细致的服务。让我印象深刻的是，餐厅厨房里价值 350 多万元人民币的莫尔蒂尼（Molteni）烹饪炉是纯手工锻造的，深红色，当年全球只有 4 台，是欧洲厨房里的顶级设备。

There are many Chinese chefs making and exploring Western cuisine in this five-star hotel. Wei Xu is a 32-year-old high-class chef of Western cuisine. He comes from Nanchang and has 17 years of experience. He previously worked in other restaurants of five-star hotels. He became the Executive Chef of the Pipette Restaurant in

Intercontinental Hotel Shenzhen – Pipette Restaurant Intercontinental Hotel Shenzhen is the first Spanish style Platinum Five-star Hotel in China.

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2011. He studied Western cuisine ingredients and spices with many foreign chefs, he focused on detail and took note of different recipes. He tries to blend Chinese elements in his cooking and bring to us the enjoyment of food. MY GOURMET JOURNEY

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中国深圳篇

美味沙拉

Gourmet Salad

材料：红苦苣叶 30 克、绿苦苣叶 30 克、黄九芽叶 30 克、烟熏鸭胸肉 3 片、黑松露 120 克、黑提 1 个、圣女果 1 个、鹅肝 1500 克、老虎虾、橄榄油、意大利黑醋 200 克、盐、黑胡椒、白胡椒 4 克、白兰地 70 克做法：1. 将黑松露、橄榄油 240 克、意大利黑醋放入搅拌机内打匀，做成黑松露酱。 2. 鹅肝解冻后，用刀剔除筋膜和血管。将鹅肝用盐 10 克、白胡椒、白兰地腌制 1 小时，放入鹅肝批的模具里，封好锡纸入烤炉 92℃烤 1 小时。取出，用小木板压住模具并倒掉多余的鹅肝油，放冰箱冷藏一个晚上，做成鹅肝批。 3. 将红苦苣、绿苦苣、黄九芽摘成小叶，洗净、沥干。加入橄榄油、黑松露酱、盐、黑胡椒拌匀，放在盘子中间。 4. 将老虎虾撒上盐和黑胡椒，用橄榄油煎至两面变色。把烟熏鸭胸肉切成片，黑提、圣女果切成两半，鹅肝批切成小正方形块。在沙拉周边依次放上黑提、圣女果、煎好的老虎虾、鹅肝批、烟熏鸭胸肉片摆盘。 Ingredient： red, green and yellow endive leaves 30g respectively, three slices of smoked duck breast, black truffle 120g, one black grape, one cherry tomato, goose liver 1500g, tiger prawn, olive oil, Italian black vinegar 200g, salt, black pepper, white pepper 4g, brandy 70g Method: 1. Smash black truffle, 240g olive oil and Italian black vinegar in the stirring machine and make black truffle sauce. 2. Defrost goose liver, pick out and discard its muscle and vessel. Then marinate it with 10g salt, white pepper and brandy for one hour. Put them in the goose liver terrine mold, wrap them with tinfoil paper and roast it in oven for one hour at 92°C. When it is ready, take it out and press the mold with a board; pour out the goose liver oil slowly, freeze the left goose liver in the fridge overnight and the goose liver terrine is done. 3. Pick out the red, green and yellow endive leaves, wash them and let them dry. Add olive oil, black truffle, salt and black pepper inside and mix them up. 4. Spread salt and black pepper on the tiger prawn, fry it with olive oil until its two sides turn browned. Cut the smoked duck breast into slices, cut black grape and cherry tomato in half, cut goose liver terrine into dice. Put black grape, cherry tomato, fried tiger prawn, goose liver terrine and smoked duck breast around the salad.

小胖点评这道菜的主料和配料都很突出。烟熏鸭胸肉片外面包裹一层肥肉，香嫩、软烂，口感有点像火腿；加了黑松露酱的蔬菜在淡淡的清爽中有丝丝咸味和香气；鹅肝的口感细腻、柔滑；老虎虾脆爽、鲜甜，这几种食物一起成就了这道美味的沙拉。 My Comment: Both the main ingredient and the sides play a wonderful role in this dish. The thick smoked duck breast slice has a layer of fat, which is tender and tastes like ham. The duck breast has a fragrance of fat while the vegetables with black truffle sauce are light and refreshing to the taste with a hint of saltiness. The delicacy and tenderness of goose liver last very long in your mouth; when it mixes with the crispiness and sweetness of the prawn, it creates a taste that makes you want to try it over and over again.

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Method: 1. Cut dried mushroom, king trumpet mushroom, button mushroom and white onion into slices. Put butter and olive oil in the pan, fry white onion, thyme and assorted mushrooms inside. Pour chicken soup, cream, salt and white pepper in it, cook until the fragrance of mushroom comes out and it gets soft. Put the mushroom soup in stirring machine, whisk until it has no grains and get mushy. 2. Put it on the plate, drizzle with a little parsley, white pepper powder and olive oil on top.

小胖点评蘑菇汤在西餐中比较常见。蘑菇和奶油的味道互不掩盖，浓稠、顺滑、香气四溢。在搅拌蘑菇汤时，若汤汁太稠，可以加入少许鸡汤调至适合的浓稠度，不能用奶油或牛奶来调整，否则蘑菇的香味就会被奶油的味道所掩盖。 My Comment: Mushroom soup is an ordinary dish in Western cuisine. The odor of mushroom and chicken mix together harmoniously and do not overpower each other. When whisking the mushrooms, if the soup gets too thick, you can add some chicken soup instead of cream or milk; otherwise, the smell of mushroom will be covered up by them.

蘑菇奶油汤

Mushroom Veloute

材料：冬菇 100 克、杏鲍菇 100 克、纽扣菇 100 克、白洋葱 30 克、黄油 25 克、橄榄油 25 克、百里香 5 克、鸡汤 1 升、奶油 200 克、盐、白胡椒粉、欧芹做法：1. 将冬菇、杏鲍菇、纽扣菇、白洋葱全部切片，平底锅加热放黄油和橄榄油，炒香切好的菇片、白洋葱片、百里香，加入鸡汤和奶油煮，盐和白胡椒调味，煮至蘑菇软烂。将蘑菇汤放入搅拌机搅拌。 2. 将汤装盘，撒上少许欧芹碎和白胡椒粉，将橄榄油“画”在汤上。 Ingredient： dried mushroom 100g, king trumpet mushroom 100g, button mushroom 100g, white onion 30g, butter 25g, olive oil 25g, thyme 5g, chicken soup 1L, cream 200g, salt, white pepper, parsley

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Ingredient：M5 wagyu beef tenderloin 180g, button mushroom 150g, radish 500g, summer radish 500g, seedling of beans 5g, Italian white vinegar 500g, Italian black vinegar 1000g, brown sugar 1000g, red wine 1000g, tomato sauce 300g, condensed black vinegar 80g, sugar 200g, smashed horseradish 50g, salt, black pepper, olive oil Method: 1. Cook Italian black vinegar, brown sugar and red wine until they become thickened to make condensed black vinegar. Put button mushroom, tomato sauce and condensed black vinegar in the stirring machine to make sour mushroom sauce. 2. Skin the radishes, cut them into 5mm thick slices; cut summer radish into four parts. Boil white vinegar and sugar, switch off the heat and pour them in iced water to cool. Divide radish and summer radish in two different vacuum bags, pour 300g vinegar sauce in each bag and pump the air out. Marinate radish for 20 minutes and summer radish for three hours, and the pickled radish and summer radish is done. 3. Wipe salt and black pepper on two sides of wagyu beef tenderloin, fry it with olive oil until its two sides turn browned. Roast it in oven for 2-3 minutes at 350°C. Then set it aside for 3-5 minutes. Use a spoon to draw a comma with smashed horseradish, put pickled radish, summer radish and seedling of beans inside, put the roasted wagyu beef in the middle and pour mushroom sauce on it.

小胖点评澳洲按照牛肉肉色深浅和脂肪分布比率划分 M1 至 M12 级，等级越高，脂肪和肉的比率越高，且分布越匀称。M5 级澳洲和牛雪花纹路清晰，质感很好。我喜欢吃三成熟的牛肉，切开牛肉，可以清晰地看到牛肉的粉红色和血汁渗出，闻起来肉香扑鼻，尝到充盈的牛肉汁和牛肉鲜嫩的口感。给我惊喜的是，在厨房的出菜口有一个特制的温度很高的灯，可以让这道菜保持在 70℃左右，让客人吃到口感最佳的牛肉。

香煎澳洲 M5 级和牛牛柳配辣根泥、酸萝卜、酸蘑菇汁 M5 Wagyu Beef Tenderloin with Horseradish, Pickled Radish, Sour Mushroom Sauce

材料：澳洲 M5 级和牛牛柳 180 克、纽扣菇 150 克、白萝卜 500 克、水萝卜 500 克、豆苗 5 克、意大利白酒醋 500 克、意大利黑醋 1000 克、黄糖 1000 克、红

My Comment: According to the color of meat and the distribution of fat, wagyu beef ranges from M1 to M12, the higher the quality is, the better its fat and lean balance. M5 wagyu beef is of high quality and has a clear texture. I prefer beef to be rare, cutting the beef gently and you can see its meat juice come out, which smells quite nice. You can enjoy the lush juice and tender taste. What is the most surprising for me is that through the kitchen window, you can see a special light with high temperature, which is used to maintain the heat of every dish at 70°C, thus ensuring the best taste for guests.

酒 1000 克、番茄酱 300 克、浓缩黑醋 80 克、糖 200 克、辣根泥 50 克、盐、黑胡椒、橄榄油做法：1. 将意大利黑醋、黄糖、红酒煮至黏稠，离火冷却，做成浓缩黑醋。将纽扣菇、番茄酱、浓缩黑醋放入搅拌机内打匀，做成酸蘑菇汁。 2. 将白萝卜去皮切成 5 毫米的薄片，水萝卜切 4 份待用。白酒醋和糖煮开后离火，冷却，做成酸甜水。将白萝卜和水萝卜分别装在两个真空袋里，倒入 300 克煮好的酸甜水，抽真空。白萝卜泡 20 分钟后取出沥干，水萝卜泡 3 小时后取出沥干，做成酸白萝卜和酸水萝卜。 3. 和牛牛柳两面撒盐、黑胡椒，用橄榄油煎至两面呈咖啡色，放入烤箱 350℃烤 2 ～ 3 分钟，再静置 3 ～ 5 分钟。在盘子的一边用勺子将辣根泥画一个逗号，放酸白萝卜、酸水萝卜、豆苗装饰，将牛柳放在盘子中间，浇上蘑菇汁。

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金万利力娇甜酒舒芙蕾配香草汁、橙味雪葩 Grand Marnier Soufflé with Vanilla Sauce, Orange Sherbet

中国深圳篇

then drain it in a colander and make vanilla sauce. Put egg white and 10g sugar in the stirring machine, and whip them with Grand Marnier. 2. Wipe butter on the mold, spread a layer of sugar. Put the prepared egg white in and make it flat, roast it for

材料：牛奶 200 克、香草半根、吉士粉 15 克、蛋清 50 克、糖 20 克、金万利力娇

six minutes at 200°C. Sprinkle sugar powder on the soufflé, then add vanilla sauce and orange sherbet.

甜酒 20 克、黄油 10 克、橙味雪葩 100 克、糖粉做法：1. 在奶锅中放入牛奶和半根香草条煮开，再倒入吉士粉搅拌均匀，煮 2 分钟

小胖点评

后离火过滤，做成香草汁。取蛋清加入 10 克糖放在搅拌机里打发，放金万利力娇甜酒拌匀。 2. 在模具内先刷上一层黄油，再放一层糖，放入搅拌好的蛋清，抹平表面，放入烤箱 200℃烤 6 分钟。在烤好的舒芙蕾上撒上糖粉，搭配香草汁和橙味雪葩。

舒芙蕾（Soufflé），Soufflé 是 souffler 的过去分词，意思是“使充气”或指“蓬松地胀起来”。每每提到舒芙蕾，我都会非常兴奋，它是能让我“疯狂”的一道甜点。看似简单，实际上时间和火候要精准把握到秒。舒芙蕾出炉后，绝对不可以慢慢品尝，那诱人的形状 30 秒后就会塌陷。口感蓬松、细滑、甜腻，让我感觉无限美好。 My Comment:

Ingredient：milk 200g, half vanilla, custard powder 15g, egg white 50g, sugar 20g, Grand Marnier 20g, butter 10g, orange sherbet 100g, sugar powder Method: 1. Cook milk and half vanilla in the pot, pour custard powder in and stir them, cook it for two minutes,

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“Soufflé” comes from the past tense of French verb “souffler”, which means “inflate” or “be fluffy”. Every time when someone mentions soufflé, I will go into rapture because this is a dessert that can drive me crazy. It looks simple but the time and temperature needs to be calculated accurately. When a soufflé is ready, you cannot eat it slowly because its tempting shape will only stay for 30 seconds, after that it will shrink immediately. It is fluffy, delicate, and sweet and makes me feel wonderful.

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2016 年 7 月 8 日 / July 8, 2016

Grange Grill Westin Hotel Shenzhen

深圳益田威斯汀酒店扒房

行政总厨保罗·多德 2015 年 11 月 2 日，来自澳洲的保罗 · 多德（Paul Dodd）成为深圳益田威斯汀酒店的行政总厨。他有 21 年的烹饪经验，曾经在法国、英国、日本和韩国许多世界知名的酒店工作。2013 年，他正式加入喜达屋集团。目前，他在深圳益田威斯汀酒店负责 5 家不同风格的餐厅厨务部的日常管理和运营工作，他出色的烹饪技巧及专业的餐饮管理经验为深圳的美食爱好者提供了独一无二的美食体验。采访时，他热情地为我们讲解每一道菜。他礼貌、谦和的待人方式，严谨的工作态度，都让我肃然起敬。据了解，保罗 · 多德以前在英国戈登 · 拉姆齐的餐厅工作过。保罗 · 多德和戈登 · 拉姆齐都是我尊敬的大厨和偶像。

Executive Chef Paul Dodd

深圳益田威斯汀酒店扒房

Paul Dodd comes from Australia and became the Executive Chef of the Westin Hotel on November 2nd, 2015. Paul has more than 21 years of cooking experience. He has previously worked in many different popular hotel restaurants in France, Britain, Japan, and Korea along with

深圳益田威斯汀酒店是益田集团和世界酒店与休闲服务的领袖企业美国喜达屋

many others. Paul officially came to the Starwood Group in 2013. Now, Paul is in charge of five

集团合作的白金五星级酒店，威斯汀扒房位于酒店顶层。在餐厅，华侨城全景乃至

different restaurant kitchen departments and their daily operations. His impeccable leadership and

远处美丽迷人的海湾尽收眼底；尽情品尝优质的进口牛排和新鲜的海鲜料理，开放

cooking skills bring a unique experience to Shenzhen food lovers. During the interview, Paul was very friendly and explained how to make every dish

式的厨房为您烹制经典法式、意式美食；户外露天酒吧视野开阔，在此开派对绝对

passionately. His politeness, humbleness, and his strict attitude towards work makes him

是无比惬意。

admirable. Paul once worked in Gordon Ramsay’s restaurant in London. Both Paul and Gordon are highly respectable chefs and they are my idols.

Grange Grill Westin Hotel Shenzhen The Westin Hotel is a Platinum Five-star Hotel managed by the Yitian Group. It is a collaboration with American Starwood Group, which ranks highly among the leading international hotel and resorts in the world. Westin Hotel has sumptuous and chic guest rooms and suites. The Grange Grill Restaurant is on the top floor, where you can watch the splendid view of OCT and the charming bay far away. Relish the high-quality imported steak and fresh seafood, delicate French and Italian cuisine will be served to you. The bar in the open air has a wide view. It is pleasant to hold a party here.

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小胖点评用黄油炒的蘑菇嫩滑、温润，充满奶香味，加入鸡汤烧制后，增加了汤的鲜度。洋葱、蒜、黑松露酱使这道菜在口感上多了些层次。泡牛肝菌的水，给汤增加了独特的香气。 My Comment: Fried mushrooms with butter, which will make them tender and smooth and full of milky fragrance. Chicken soup makes them thick and smell nice. This dish has a light odor of onion, garlic and black truffle, gives the dish a more layered in taste. The water soaked by porcini adds a special fragrance to the soup.

法式奶油蘑菇汤 Mushroom Soup

材料：口蘑 50 克、香菇 50 克、杏鲍菇 50 克、牛肝菌 20 克、洋葱 10 克、奶油 20 克、黑松露酱 5 克、黄油 10 克、蒜 5 克、鸡汤 150 克、盐做法：1. 先用黄油炒洋葱碎、蒜碎，加入蘑菇炒至变色，再加入超过蘑菇量的鸡汤和泡牛肝菌的水，煮开后小火慢煮 20 分钟。 2. 将汤放入搅拌机搅拌均匀，加入盐调味。装盘，汤上面放打发的奶油和黑松露酱。 Ingredient：white mushroom 50g, dried mushroom 50g, king trumpet mushroom 50g, porcini 20g, onion 10g, cream 20g, black truffle sauce 5g, butter 10g, garlic 5g, chicken soup 150g, salt Method: 1. Fry onion and garlic shreds with butter, throw all mushrooms inside and fry them until their color turns. Pour chicken soup to cover mushrooms, add water soaked by porcini, boil them and then turn to low heat and cook for about 20 minutes. 2. Use stirring machine to smash the soup, season it with sea salt. When putting it on the plate, add foamed cream and black truffle sauce.

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日式霜烧三文鱼

Salmon Tataki

材料：挪威三文鱼 100 克、三文鱼鱼子 10 克、日本柚子酱油 10 克、法葱 1 克、芝麻 1 克、黑芝麻酱 10 克、XO 酱 30 克、黄原胶、干贝、干葱、海米、大黄鱼、辣椒、火腿、洋葱、蒜蓉、盐、糖、日本辣椒粉做法：1. 在柚子酱油中加水烧开，加入黄原胶用搅拌器搅拌均匀，做成日本柚子酱油。 2. 将干贝、干葱、海米、大黄鱼、辣椒、火腿上屉蒸熟后过油炸干，搅碎。在锅中放油炒香洋葱、蒜蓉、炸过的材料，小火熬香，待起泡后加入盐、糖小火熬 30 分钟，做成 XO 酱。 3. 用刀将三文鱼去皮片成长方形厚片，放在烤盘上，用高温火枪烧至鱼变色，再将三文鱼均匀地切成 4 份。摆盘，先放 4 块三文鱼，鱼上放 XO 酱、三文鱼鱼子、法葱碎、芝麻、日本辣椒粉，淋黑芝麻酱，搭配日本柚子酱油。 Ingredient： Norwegian salmon 100g, salmon roe 10g, Japanese shaddock soy 10g, chervil 1g, sesame 1g, black sesame sauce 10g, XO sauce 30g, Xanthan gum, dried scallop, dried shallot, dried shrimp, yellow croaker, chili, ham, onion, garlic, salt, sugar, Japanese chili powder Method: 1. Boil shaddock soy, put Xanthan gum inside, whisk it evenly and make Japanese shaddock soy. 2. Steam dried scallop, dried shallot, dried shrimps, yellow croaker, chili and ham, fry them in oil and smash them. Then fry onion and garlic, put those steamed stuff in, use low heat to make their fragrance diffuse. Add salt and sugar and cook them for 30 minutes over low heat and make XO sauce. 3. Skin the salmon and cut it into thick pieces. Use a barbecue gun to grill it until its color turns. Then cut it into four pieces. Use a rectangular plate, put four pieces of salmon on it, then put XO sauce, salmon roe, chervil, sesame and Japanese chili powder in it. Draw a circle by black sesame sauce and pour some Japanese shaddock soy.

小胖点评我自己尝试做了这道菜。在火枪的喷射下，三文鱼瞬间“锁”住水分，表皮呈深棕色，油脂渗透到肉里，鱼肉仍保持粉红色。摆盘时如水墨画般漂亮，淋上的黑芝麻酱，衬托出三文鱼的鲜艳颜色，搭配日本柚子酱油、XO 酱、日本辣椒粉、三文鱼鱼子，丰富了这道菜的口感。鱼肉细嫩、软绵，如吃肥肉的感觉，入口即化。这是一道让我惊喜的菜。 My Comment: I tried to make this dish by myself. The juice of salmon can be maintained immediately after grilling using the barbecue gun, it looks dark brown on the surface, its fat is rich, and yet the inside is still fresh and pink. When decorating the plate, sprinkle some black sesame sauce on it, and the salmon will look fresh and lively, much like a Chinese ink painting. Japanese soy sauce, XO sauce, Japanese chili powder and salmon roe can highlight the tenderness and smoothness of the salmon. It taste a bit like fatty meat and will melt immediately inside your mouth. This dish is very impressive.

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Ingredient：angus tenderloin 200g, carrot, finger carrot 20g, asparagus 30g, Italian balsamic onion 10g, butter, salt, potato, thyme 5g, garlic 5g, black pepper, olive oil, balsamic vinegar, sugar Method: 1. Skin the carrot, cut it into slices, boil and dry it, then smash it with a stirring machine; sift, then put butter

香煎澳洲安格斯牛柳

Australian Angus Tenderloin

and salt in it, and make smashed carrot. 2. Skin potato, boil it then carve it into cylinder by mold, fry it with butter, and add thyme, salt, garlic and black pepper, and make buttered potato.

材料：澳洲安格斯牛柳 200 克、胡萝卜、手指胡萝卜 30 克、芦笋 30 克、小洋葱 10 克、黄油、盐、土豆、百里香 5 克、蒜头 5 克、黑胡椒、橄榄油、意大利香脂醋、糖做法：1. 将去皮切片的胡萝卜煮熟，放入搅拌机打成泥，过滤后加黄油、盐调味，做成胡萝卜泥。 2. 将去皮土豆用水煮熟，用模具刻成圆柱形，然后用黄油将土豆煎至两面变色，加入百里香、盐、蒜、黑胡椒调味，做成黄油浸土豆。 3. 将芦笋和手指胡萝卜去皮，用开水烫一下，芦笋约烫 30 秒，手指胡萝卜约烫 2 分钟，取出放入冰块中冷却，沥干水，然后用橄榄油炒熟，加入盐、黑胡椒调味，做成芦笋手指胡萝卜。 4. 将香脂醋和糖放在一起煮开（香脂醋和糖的比例是 2 ∶ 1），加入小洋葱后收干汁水，做成香脂醋小洋葱。 5. 将牛柳用黄油煎至两面变色，撒盐和黑胡椒，再放入烤箱 200℃每面烤 3

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3. Skin the asparagus and carrot, boil asparagus for 30 seconds and finger carrot for about two minutes. Take them out then put them in ice. Fry them with olive oil, salt and black pepper. 4. Boil Italian balsamic vinegar and sugar of 2 ∶ 1 proportion, add small onions until its sauce becomes thickened, and the Italian balsamic onion is done. 5. Fry Australian angus tenderloin until its two sides turn dark brown, spread some salt and black pepper to control its bleeding. Roast it in over for three minutes at 200°C, and then take it out and set it aside. Take out a black rock plate, wipe some smashed carrot on, put tenderloin in the middle, then put potato, asparagus and finger carrot at the side.

小胖点评澳洲安格斯牛里脊，肉质嫩滑而且脂肪含量低，如大理石纹，是牛肉的最佳部位之一。牛柳先煎变色，再入烤箱烤制，上色均匀，香味浓郁。牛柳静置，可以让牛肉的汁水慢慢回到肉的中间。切开肉，里面呈粉红色，牛肉鲜嫩、多汁。 My Comment: Angus tenderloin is taken from the mignon of Australian angus beef, it is tender and has low fat. It has a marble-liked

分钟，取出静置。摆盘时，取一个黑色石盘，先涂胡萝卜泥，再放牛柳，旁

texture, and is the one of the best parts of beef. Fry the tenderloin until it turns brown, then roast it in the oven until it gets darker

边放香脂醋小洋葱、黄油浸土豆，芦笋手指胡萝卜。

the pink meat inside, it is tender and juicy.

MY GOURMET JOURNEY

and more fragrant. Set the freshly-made tenderloin aside for a while, until its juices return to the middle. Cut it and you can see

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中国深圳篇

烟熏冰淇淋

Smoked Ice Cream

材料：香草冰淇淋、巧克力布朗尼、蜂蜜、苏格兰威士忌、提子干、巧克力片、薄荷味儿烟熏片、低筋面粉 150 克、泡打粉 1/2 勺、鸡蛋 3 个、可可粉 20 克、黑巧克力 150 克、鲜奶油 30 克、细砂糖 100 克、无盐黄油 150 克、核桃碎 60 克、盐做法：1. 巧克力布朗尼做法：将筛过的低筋面粉和泡打粉放在碗中，加入盐、糖、打散后的全蛋，用打蛋器搅拌。把黄油和巧克力放在碗中混合并隔水溶化，分 3 次加入面糊中搅拌均匀，再将温鲜奶油、烘烤后的核桃碎加入面糊搅拌均匀。将面糊放入模具中刮平，放入烤箱 180℃烤 20 分钟，取出冷却，切成 1 厘米的小块。 2. 将巧克力布朗尼块倒入玻璃杯中，加入用威士忌浸泡 1 小时的提子干，再加入冰淇淋、威士忌和蜂蜜（威士忌和蜂蜜的比例是 2 ∶ 1）。用喷烟枪点燃烟熏片，将烟注入杯中，再盖上与杯口大小一致的圆形巧克力片。 Ingredient： vanilla ice cream, chocolate brownie, honey, Scottish whisky, raisin, chocolate chips, mint smoked sheet, self-raising flour 150g, half-spoon baking powder, three eggs, cocoa 20g, dark chocolate 150g, fresh cream 30g, fine sugar 100g, salt-free butter 150g, walnut nut 60g, salt Method: 1. Put self-raising flour and baking powder in a bowl, add salt, sugar and smashed egg inside. Use eggbeater to whisk them from the middle and make the paste lustrous. Mix butter and chocolate in the bowl, then melt them above boiling water and add them in paste separately three times. Add the warm fresh cream and baked shredded walnut nut inside and stir them. Pour the paste in mold, make it flat, roast it in pre-heated oven for 20 minutes at 180°C. Then take it out of the mold and let it cool. Remove the baking paper and cut the chocolate brownie into 1cm cubes. 2. Put the chocolate brownie in a glass, marinate the raisin with whisky for one hour, put it in the glass and add ice cream, mix 2 ∶ 1 whisky and honey, whisk them and add them in. Add smoked sheet inside and burn it, then cover them with chocolate chips.

小胖点评巧克力布朗尼是加入了大量的黑巧克力烘焙而成，味道介于曲奇饼和蛋糕之间，层次丰富，口感厚重。烟熏冰淇淋采用了分子料理的做法，我尝试着做了这道甜品。在杯中注入烟后，甜品有了一种神秘感，很想马上品尝它的味道。口感饱满而丰富的布朗尼配上冰凉的香草冰淇淋，给人带来了清新凉爽的好心情。 My Comment: Chocolate brownie is baked with a large amount of dark chocolate. The taste of brownie is between a cookie and a cake, it is layered, heavy and thick. The smoked ice cream is made using molecular gastronomy, I tried to make the dessert by myself. After injecting the smoke into the cup, the dessert had a sense of mystery and you would want to taste it immediately. The brownie is very rich, and the chocolate with sweet and cool vanilla ice cream makes you feel refreshed and delighted on a hot summer day.

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2016 年 7 月 9 日 / July 9, 2016

Top Chefs’ Sextet

意法星厨六重奏

格雷戈里 · 德尔博斯特（Gregory Delbost），他在法国著名的米其林餐厅工作，从 2001 年开始，已在北京、上海、深圳开办了 15 家餐厅。路易斯 · 詹姆斯 · 史蒂文森（Louis James Stevenson），出生于法国西南部，曾与法国著名的米其林星级厨师一起工作，已来中国 7 年。拉斐尔 · 凯米诺（Raphael Kimino），曾与著名的米其林三星主厨、世界最佳厨师马克 · 维拉（Marc Veyrat）和著名厨师乔尔 · 卢布松（Joel Robuchon）一起工作。2008 年，他的餐厅得到米其林二星。

Top Chefs’ Sextet On the evening of July 9th 2016, I was honored to attend the “Top Chefs’ Sextet” held by Shenzhen Blue Italian Seafood & Grill Restaurant of the Venice Raytour Hotel to meet with six star chefs. It was held by one of the biggest and most prestigious international cuisine associations – Ordre International des Disciples d’Auguste Escoffier. Six dishes were made by the six outstanding Escoffier chefs respectively. Ordre International des Disciples d’Auguste Escoffier was founded in the beginning of 20th century to commemorate Auguste Escoffier. The association is committed to promoting the

意法星厨六重奏

development of culinary technology, advocating and exchanging culinary theory, and continues seeking for the top culinary arts. These six chefs are:

2016 年 7 月 9 日晚，深圳威尼斯睿途酒店意大利餐厅举办“意法星厨六重奏”晚宴，我有幸参与了这次活动。由世界规模最大、最享誉盛名的国际美食协会之一埃科

Antonino Scordo, who comes from Sicily, Italy and has a 20-year working experience. He won the first prize in a pizza competition in China and is regarded as the “Master of Pizza”. Clement Charlier, who is a popular dessert and chocolate chef in France, has been in

菲国际厨师协会主办，六道菜的晚宴由六位最优秀的埃科菲主厨烹饪。埃科菲国际厨

Shenzhen for four years and contributes himself to propagating the art of French dessert and

师协会于 20 世纪初为纪念法国国宝级厨艺宗师奥古斯特· 埃科菲而创立，该协会致力

chocolate.

于推动烹饪技术的发展和餐饮理念的交流，不断地追求顶级厨艺。

David Jean Marteau, is the author of Creative Cooking for the Global Kitchen: Traditional

Recipes With an International Flavor. He was ranked among one of the “Five Chefs” and one of “30 Best Chefs” , and was introduced into the Hall of Cuisine Fame .

六位主厨分别是：安东尼诺 · 斯科多（Antonino Scordo），来自意大利的西西里岛，有 20 多年的工作经历。在中国比萨大师赛中获得冠军。克莱门特 · 查理（Clement Charlie），法国著名甜品主厨，已来深圳 4 年，致力于推广法国甜品和巧克力制造艺术。

Gregory Delbost, who works in French famous Michelin restaurants, has opened fifteen restaurants in Beijing, Shanghai and Shenzhen since 2001. Louis James Stevenson, who was born at the southwest of France, he used to work with French famous Michelin star chefs, and has been in China for seven years. Raphael Kimino, worked with a Michelin Three-Star and world-class chef Marc Veyrat and Joel Robuchon. His restaurant won Michelin Two-Star in 2008.

大卫·让·马托（David Jean Marteau），是《全球厨房创意烹饪》的作者。曾在加拿大厨艺大赛中被评为“五大厨师” “全国 30 位最好厨师”，入选著名的美食名人堂。

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蟹肉塔塔配鱼子酱、小蛋酥、芥末酱 Crab Tartare and Caviar, Mini Meringues, Light Wasabi Sauce

厨师：大卫·让·马托（David Jean Marteau）材料：蟹肉 100 克、红色鱼子酱 10 克、蛋黄酱 50 克、芥末酱 10 克、蛋清 50 克、西芹碎、洋葱丁、糖 50 克、柠檬汁、番茄丁、黄瓜丁、辣椒粒、糖粉、可食用色素、盐、胡椒粉、食用花做法：1. 将蛋清和糖一起加入柠檬汁、糖粉打发至黏稠状。用可食用色素染色，装进裱花袋，剪去裱花袋尖端，在烤垫上挤出一个个纽扣形，再放入烤箱 150℃烤 10 ～ 15 分钟，做成白色、紫色、粉红色的迷你小蛋酥。 2. 在蛋黄酱中加入芥末酱和辣椒粒混合均匀，做成芥末酱。新鲜蟹肉加入蛋黄酱、盐、胡椒粉、西芹碎、洋葱丁、黄瓜丁、番茄丁拌匀，做成蟹肉塔塔。 3. 摆盘，用芥末酱“画”盘底，将蟹肉塔塔放入一个圆形的模具，上面点缀红色鱼子酱，用迷你小蛋酥和可食用花装饰。 Made by Chef David Jean Marteau Ingredient： crab meat 100g, red caviar 10g, mayonnaise 50g, wasabi 10g, white sugar 50g, egg white 50g, celery shreds, onion dice, sugar 50g, lemon sauce, tomato dice, cucumber dice, chili grain, sugar powder, food pigment, salt, pepper, edible flower Method: 1. Add lemon sauce and sugar powder in egg white and white sugar, whip them until they become mushy. Use different food pigment to dye it and put it in the piping bag, cut the tip and squeeze button-shaped pieces. Roast them in oven for 10-15 minutes at 150°C. Then the white, purple and pink meringues come out. 2. Mix mayonnaise, mustard and chili grain together and make wasabi sauce. Add mayonnaise, salt, pepper and celery shreds in fresh crab meat, then add diced onion, diced cucumber and diced tomato in it and the crab tartare is done. 3. Paint with wasabi on the plate, put the crab meat in a round mold, add red caviar on top and put meringues and edible flower at the side.

小胖点评这是一道十分清新的菜，五颜六色的小蛋酥好像海边奔跑的小女孩，活泼、可爱。小蛋酥酸甜可口，似有花和水果的香气。蟹肉塔塔是这道菜的灵魂，你吃到了蟹肉的鲜甜、蔬菜的爽口、微咸和酸味，味道互不掩盖，淡淡地融合在一起。 My Comment: This is a fresh dish, the colorful meringues are like lively little girls running wildly near the sea. Mini meringues taste sweet and sour, very dainty, and it has an odor of flower and fruit. The crab meat is the soul of this dish, it is fresh and tasty, and it has the scent of vegetables. The saltiness and sourness will not overpower each other; instead, they blend harmoniously.

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西班牙凉菜汤配香煎鳕鱼 Pan-seared Sea Bass with Gazpacho

厨师：安东尼诺·斯科多（Antonino Scordo）材料：银鳕鱼、节瓜丁、红椒丁、黄椒丁、土豆丁、芦笋丁、西芹丁、胡萝卜丁、土豆泥、洋葱丁、番茄酱、黑色鱼子酱、香叶、百里香、盐、胡椒粉、白葡萄酒、橄榄油。做法：1. 将锅烧热后放入橄榄油，翻炒洋葱丁、西芹丁、胡萝卜丁，再放入香叶、百里香、节瓜丁、土豆丁、芦笋丁、红椒丁、黄椒丁炒匀。放入盐、胡椒粉调味，喷入白葡萄酒，煮开后加入土豆泥和番茄酱，做成凉菜汤。 2. 在平底锅中放入橄榄油，将银鳕鱼两面煎至金黄。 3. 摆盘，凉菜汤上面放银鳕鱼，再放少许黑色鱼子酱。 Made by Chef Antonino Scordo Ingredient： sea bass, chieh qua dice, red chili dice, yellow chili dice, potato dice, asparagus dice, celery dice, carrot dice, smashed potato, onion dice, tomato sauce, black caviar, myrcia, thyme, salt, pepper, white wine, olive oil Method: 1. Put olive oil in the pan, fry the onion, celery and carrot dice, put myrcia, thyme, chieh qua dice, potato dice, asparagus dice and red and yellow chili dice. Season them with salt, pepper and white wine, put smashed potato and tomato sauce inside and the gazpacho is done. 2. Pour olive oil in the pan, and fry the sea bass until both sides have turned brown. 3. Pour soup on the plate, add the sea bass on it, and then add a little black caviar as decoration on top.

小胖点评西班牙凉菜汤用了大量的蔬菜烹煮，营养、健康，味道酸酸的，很开胃，适合在炎热的夏天喝。红色汤汁搭配白色鳕鱼和似珍珠的黑色鱼子酱，色彩鲜艳，很有层次感。这道菜不仅好看，口感也很好。鳕鱼肉质香嫩、细腻，少许酸酸的口感提升了鳕鱼的鲜味。 My Comment: Spanish gazpacho is made from a large amount of vegetables, it is nutritious, healthy, a bit sour and quite appetizing, and as such is very suitable to eat in the summer. The soup is red with seared with white sea bass and black caviar, which looks bright and tastes very fresh. The sea bass is tender and delicate, and the sour gazpacho only improves its flavor.

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香煎扇贝 Roasted Scallops with Spices

厨师：格雷戈里·德尔博斯特（Gregory Delbost）材料：3 个带子、芦笋、橄榄油、盐、黑胡椒粉、百里香、芒果酱做法：1. 将新鲜带子贝壳刷洗干净，撬开外壳，用专用刀将带子肉片出，去掉黑色沙包，冲洗干净后用厨房纸吸干水分。 2. 在平底锅中放入橄榄油，加入盐、黑胡椒粉、百里香将带子两面煎至金黄。锅中留些底油将芦笋煎熟。 3. 摆盘，先放 1 勺芒果酱，再摆放 3 个带子和 2 根芦笋。 Made by Chef Gregory Delbost Ingredient： three scallops, asparagus, olive oil, salt, black pepper, thyme, passion fruit, mango sauce Method: 1. Clean the scallop shell, lift it then use specific knife to rip it down, pick out and discard the black sand bags, clean and dry it with kitchen tissue. 2. Put olive oil in the pan, add salt, pepper and thyme, and fry the scallops until it turns brown. Leave some oil in the pan to fry the asparagus. 3. Put a spoon of mango sauce then lay three scallops and two asparagus on the plate.

小胖点评煎带子时切忌时间过长，否则肉质变韧。煎后的带子外焦里嫩，搭配芒果酱，酸味激发出带子鲜嫩的口感。看似简单的菜反而很难做好，需精准地掌握煎带子的时间和火候。 My Comment: Do not fry the scallop for too long, otherwise, the meat will become rubbery. Fry it until its surface becomes brown, it is crispy on the skin and tender and elastic inside. Eat it with mango sauce, and the sourness of the sauce enhances the taste of the scallops. The simpler the dish, the harder it is to make, the essence of this dish is managing the time and the heat.

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香煎三文鱼配热情果、芒果汁 Seared Salmon Fillet, Mango Passion Fruit Coulis with Dark Juice

厨

师：路易斯·詹姆斯·史蒂文森（Louis James Stevenson）

材

料：三文鱼鱼柳 150 克、芒果汁、热情果、墨鱼汁、菠菜、鱼子、盐、黑胡椒、食用花

做法：1. 三文鱼加盐、黑胡椒腌 20 分钟，菠菜洗净打成汁。将腌好的三文鱼放入烤盘，淋上菠菜汁，放入烤箱 150℃烤 5 分钟。 2. 摆盘，用小木刷蘸墨鱼汁“画”盘底，滴热情果果汁、芒果汁，放三文鱼和鱼子，用可食用花、芒果汁点缀。 Made by Chef Louis James Stevenson Ingredient： salmon fillet 150g, mango juice, passion fruit, squid ink, spinach, fish roe, salt, black pepper, edible flower Method: 1. Add salt and black pepper to the salmon fillet and season it for 20 minutes, wash the spinach and whisk it into a juice. Put the salmon on the roasting plate, pour spinach juice on it and put it in oven for five minutes at 150°C. 2. Use a wooden brush and dip squid ink to paint the plate, drop some passion fruit juice, mango juice randomly, put the salmon fillet in the middle of the plate, add some fish roe on top and decorate it with edible flower and one spoon of mango juice.

小胖点评这道菜的摆盘充分展现了主厨丰富的想象力。主厨告诉我，烤三文鱼时要像对待婴儿一样小心，鱼在高温下很容易变干，肉质会变柴。烤出的三文鱼，外皮金黄，肉质柔软，鱼的脂肪和烤制后的香味非常诱人，入口即化。墨鱼汁搭配几滴彩色水果汁，看上去如秋天的果实，是一道既好看又好吃的菜。 My Comment: The decoration of the dish fully represents the chef’s imagination. The chef told me that when roasting the salmon, it is like treating a baby, you need to be careful, because fish easily gets dry under high temperature and its meat will become dry. The fat of the fish and the fragrance after grilling are very tantalized, it melts immediately in your mouth. The black squid ink with several drops of colorful fruit juice is like fruit in autumn, it looks nice and it tastes good.

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罗西尼牛里脊肉配洋葱馅饼、浓缩果汁 Beef Tenderloin Rossine Style, Onion Tartlet, Juice Reduction

厨师：拉斐尔·凯米诺（Raphael Kimino）材料：牛里脊肉 150 克、白洋葱丝、蘑菇、覆盆子、橄榄油、迷迭香、百里香、大蒜、香叶、盐、黑胡椒、白葡萄酒、橡木醋做法：1. 将牛里脊肉用橄榄油、迷迭香、百里香、大蒜、香叶浸泡 30 分钟，再将肉真空包装，放入 59.5℃的水中低温慢煮 45 分钟。 2. 锅中放入橄榄油，炒白洋葱丝、蘑菇，再放入百里香、盐、黑胡椒、白葡萄酒炒匀，做成圆的白洋葱馅饼。 3. 摆盘，放牛里脊肉和白羊葱馅饼，搭配覆盆子汁和橡木醋浓缩汁。 Made by Chef Raphael Kinimo Ingredient：rossine beef tenderloin 150g, white onion, mushroom, raspberry, olive oil, rosemary, thyme, garlic, myrcia, salt, black pepper, white wine, oak vinegar Method: 1. Marinate Rossine beef tenderloin with olive oil, rosemary, thyme, garlic and myrcia for half an hour. Cook it over low heat, use vacuum plastic bag to seal it, then cook it in water for 45 minutes at 59.5°C. 2. Pour olive oil in the pan, add shredded onion and mushroom, fry them with thyme, salt, black pepper and white wine, and then make them into onion tartlet. 3. Put the beef tenderloin and onion tartlet on the plate, squeeze raspberry and mix its juice with oak vinegar.

小胖点评这道菜采用低温慢煮的方式保留食物的原味、原色、营养成分，减少或者不用食盐，减少水分流失。低温慢煮是众多的米其林大厨热爱的一种烹饪技术。洋葱馅饼是这道菜的亮点，洋葱的甜味衬托出牛里脊肉的软烂、浓香和肉丝的质感，酸味的酱汁让这道菜多了些层次，甜、香、软、酸、甘，多种味道慢慢渗透。 My Comment: Cook Rossine beef tenderloin under low temperature, because low temperature can maintain the taste and color of the food; try not to use salt, so it can better preserve its nutrients and prevent water loss. This is one of the cooking skills used by many Michelin chefs. The onion tartlet is the highlight of this dish. The sweetness of the onion gives prominence to the tenderness, juice and texture of beef tenderloin. The sour sauce makes it light and adds layers of flavors such as sweetness, fragrance softness and sourness that slowly seep through as you eat it.

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巧克力布朗尼

中国深圳篇

Chocolate Brownie

厨师：克莱门特·查理（Clement Charlie）材料：黑巧克力 70 克、黄油 125 克、鸡蛋 2 个、糖 150 克、低筋粉 60 克、核桃 100 克做法：1. 把黑巧克力和黄油放入盆中隔热水溶化，将鸡蛋和糖一起打发。把核桃放入烤箱烤脆，切碎，放入低筋粉拌匀。 2. 把溶化的黑巧克力、黄油放入打发的鸡蛋、糖里慢慢拌匀，再加入核桃碎

Made by Chef Clement Charlier Ingredient：dark chocolate 70g, butter 125g, two eggs, white sugar 150g, self-raising flour 60g, walnut nut 100g Method: 1. Put dark chocolate and butter in a bowl, melt them above hot water. Whip egg white and white sugar. Roast walnut nut in the oven, cut it into pieces, put self-raising flour in it and whisk. 2. Mix melted dark chocolate, butter, whipped egg and sugar slowly, put shredded walnut nut and self-raising flour in. Put them in a plate and roast it for 20-25 minutes at 180°C.

和低筋粉拌匀，最后放入烤箱以 180℃烤 20 ～ 25 分钟。

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中国深圳篇

蛋白霜柠檬挞 Egg White Icing Lemon Tartlet

厨师：克莱门特·查理（Clement Charlie）材料：牛奶 820 克、柠檬 8 个、粟粉 120 克、蛋黄 12 个、糖、柠檬皮 4 个、挞壳、蛋清 100 克、百香果做法：1. 在牛奶 800 克中加入 8 个柠檬的汁一起煮沸。将粟粉和牛奶 20 克一起拌匀。 2. 将 12 个蛋黄加糖 150 克打至起泡，放粟粉和牛奶，再倒入牛奶柠檬汁和切碎的柠檬皮一起拌匀，然后放入冰箱冷冻。 3. 将冷冻的酱用打蛋器稍微打一下，装入挤带后将酱挤进挞壳。将蛋清 100 克和糖 150 克打发，装入裱花袋后挤在挞壳上，再用火枪喷烧上色，最后放百香果摆盘。 Made by Chef Clement Charlier Ingredient：milk 820g, eight lemons, millet flour 120g, twelve egg yolks, sugar, four lemon skins, tartlet paste, egg white 100g, passion fruit Method: 1. Boil 800g milk with eight lemons, add millet powder and 20g milk and stir them. 2. Whip twelve egg yolks and 150g sugar, add millet powder, milk, lemon juice and shredded lemon skin inside, then freeze it in the fridge. 3. Whisk the frozen sauce, put it in a piping bag then squeeze it into the paste. Whip 100g egg white and 150g sugar, put them in the piping bag too and squeeze them in the paste. Color it with a barbecue gun and put passion fruit on the side.

小胖点评这道甜品是餐厅的用量。甜品是法餐中不可缺少的一道菜肴，当主菜较丰富或油腻时应选择清淡的甜品，主菜清淡时则选择味道较丰富的甜品，这是甜品配菜的原则。甜品“Dessert”来源于法语“desservir”，意为撤去餐具的意思。在中世纪欧洲，制糖工艺很落后，吃甜品成为社会身份的象征；宴会时的压轴菜、最昂贵的菜是甜品，这种上菜顺序延续至今。法餐中常以布丁、煎饼、冰淇淋、奶酪、巧克力、水果或果汁、咖啡、茶来结尾，咖啡一般要加糖和淡奶油，茶一般要加香桃片和糖。在谈论法国米其林三星厨师克里斯汀 · 史奎尔的一篇文章中说： “将建筑的艺术融入甜点，制作最深刻的味觉记忆，并不是仅存于舌尖，而是视觉、听觉等全方位的感知。” My Comment: The amount of ingredients needed makes this a restaurant dessert. Dessert is a necessity in French cuisine. When the main course is too rich or oily, we should choose a light dessert; when the dishes are too light, we can choose a sweet dessert – this is the principle of dessert. The English word “dessert” comes from French word “desservir”, which means “clean the table”. During the medieval era in Europe, the sugar industry was very basic, so having a dessert became a symbol of upper-class social status. When inviting guests, the most expensive dish would be a dessert served after meals, and this custom has passed down to today. In French cuisine, a meal usually ends with pudding, pancake, ice cream, cheese, chocolate, fruit, or drinks like fruit juice, coffee (usually with sugar or light milk) or tea (usually with dried peach slices or sugar). A Michelin Three-Star chef once said, inject the art of architecture into dessert and create the deepest memory of taste; dessert should not only be on the tongue, but give a full range of visual and auditory perception.

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中国深圳篇

2016 年 8 月 28 日 / August 28, 2016

Great China Sheraton Hotel, Mezzo Italian Restaurant

深圳大中华喜来登酒店的意大利餐厅

主厨黄华主厨黄华于 2006 年开始学习厨艺，先后在多家国际品牌酒店工作。2013 年开始担任深圳大中华喜来登酒店意大利餐厅的厨师长，他带领团队不断创新，推出了一系列符合中国人饮食习惯的意式料理。黄华热情、开朗，喜欢挑战自己，每月举办一次不同主题的厨艺课堂，吸引了众多喜爱美食和烹饪的客人走入餐厅厨房品尝西餐、学做西餐。他深谙食材的特性，在烹饪过程中注重保留和发挥食材本身的味道，他在西餐的营养、色彩、口感上多有创新。

Chef Hua Huang

深圳大中华喜来登酒店的意大利餐厅

Chef Hua Huang (Albert) started to learn cooking in 2006. He worked in many international hotels before coming here. He became the chef-in-chief at Mezzo Restaurant in 2013, and he leads his team in creating new dishes and catering to the needs of Chinese customers. Albert is passionate, outgoing and likes challenges, he teaches cooking lessons with

深圳大中华喜来登五星级酒店曾荣获“亚洲区豪华城市酒店”大奖，酒店的意大利餐厅 Mezzo，雅致、温馨、浪漫，开放式的厨房和葡萄酒窖是餐厅的主要标志。这里可以喝下午茶，休闲、度假、商务洽谈，还可以品尝经典和创新的意大利料理，

different themes once every month, and attracts many cuisine and food lovers to taste and learn Western cuisine. He has a good command of distinguishing the characteristics and quality of ingredients and focuses on the original flavor of foods during cooking. He likes to challenge himself and inject new life into ingredients from its nutrition, to its color and taste.

享受生活的美好。

Great China Sheraton Hotel, Mezzo Italian Restaurant The Great China Sheraton Five-Star Hotel was awarded the “Asian Luxury City Hotel” by World Luxury Hotel Awards. The Mezzo Italian Restaurant is elegant, cozy and romantic. The open kitchen and wine cellar has become the main symbols of the restaurant. You can have afternoon tea or talk about business here, it is a place of leisure and also good for vacation. You can also taste their traditional or creative Italian dishes and enjoy time here.

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意式蘑菇汤

Italian Style Mushroom Soup

材料：白蘑菇、香菇、白玉菇、杏鲍菇、白洋葱、百里香、白葡萄酒、意大利干牛肝菌、盐、黑胡椒、鲜奶油、松仁、橄榄油做法：1. 将白蘑菇、香菇、白玉菇、杏鲍菇切成片。热锅冷油，炒香洋葱碎，再加入蘑菇、百里香翻炒出香味，蘑菇呈深棕色后加入白葡萄酒，收干酒味后加入水和用开水泡好的意大利牛肝菌，以大火煮至蘑菇断生，再放盐、黑胡椒调味。 2. 将蘑菇汤用搅拌机高速搅拌成泥，重新倒入锅中煮沸，关火后倒入鲜奶油搅拌均匀。 3. 把蘑菇汤放入盘中，上面放烤熟的松仁和打发的奶泡，撒少许黑胡椒。 Ingredient：white mushroom, dried mushroom, nameko mushroom, king trumpet mushroom, white onion, thyme, white wine, Italian dried porcini, salt, black pepper, fresh cream, pine nut, olive oil Method: 1. Cut the mushrooms into slices, fry onion shreds in the pan, add mushrooms and thyme in it, fry until mushrooms turn dark brown. Add white wine in it and let the alcohol evaporate, it can remove the smell of mud. When the odor of wine is almost gone, add water and Italian porcini inside, cook them over high heat until they become fully done, season it with a little bit salt and black pepper. 2. Use a stirring machine to smash the mushrooms, pour it in the pot, cook it again while whisking. Switch off the heat, pour fresh cream in, mix mushroom soup with fresh cream until they blend in. 3. Put it on the plate, add roasted pine nut and whipped cream and a little bit black pepper on top.

小胖点评炒蘑菇时放入白葡萄酒，可以去除蘑菇的土腥味；蘑菇汤加热关火后加入鲜奶油融合，低温不破坏奶的蛋白质，非常注重细节。我很喜欢这道蘑菇汤，不仅是因为自己亲手做的，更是因为这浓郁的蘑菇汤的味道。汤汁慢慢滑入口中，松仁咀嚼出特有的香气，淡淡的黑胡椒融入其中，满口浓香，味道醇厚。 My Comment: Stir fry the mushrooms in white wine to remove the muddy smell of the mushrooms. Cook the mushroom soup, add fresh cream after turning off the heat because low temperature can protect the protein in the milk. I like this mushroom soup very much, not only because I made it, but also because of the rich taste of mushroom. When eating the soup, you can taste the creamy mushroom, the special fragrance of the pine nuts, and adding black pepper highlights the whole soup.

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中国深圳篇

焗肉酱意大利面

Baked Spaghetti

材料：意大利两头尖面 100 克、洋葱碎、牛里脊碎、猪肉碎、迷迭香、香叶、红酒、番茄、黑胡椒、黄油、巴马臣奶酪、马苏里拉奶酪、意大利欧芹、盐、橄榄油做法：1. 先将水烧开，加入少许盐，煮熟意大利两头尖面，约 11 分钟，捞出后冷却，拌入橄榄油。 2. 在热锅中放入橄榄油，先炒洋葱碎，再放牛里脊肉碎和猪肉碎炒香，加入迷迭香、香叶翻炒干后加入少许红酒，红酒挥发后放去皮番茄打成的酱汁和少量水，大火收汁，取出香料，做成肉酱。 3. 将煮好的意大利面放入锅中，与肉酱充分融合，撒盐、黑胡椒调味，关火，上面放黄油和巴马臣奶酪，轻轻晃动平底锅并搅拌，放入烤盘，撒马苏里拉奶酪，放入烤箱 180℃焗 3 ～ 5 分钟，最后撒上欧芹碎。 Ingredient：spaghetti 100g, onion mince, beef tenderloin mince, pork mince, rosemary, myrcia, red wine, tomato, black pepper, butter, Parmesan cheese, Mozzarella cheese, parsley, salt, olive oil Method: 1. Boil hot water, add a little bit salt, cook spaghetti for about eleven minutes. Take it out and set it aside, mix it with a little olive oil. 2. Add olive oil in the pan, fry onion, add beef tenderloin mince, pork mince, rosemary and myrcia, let the fragrance of spices fully infiltrate in the mince. Add red wine and cook them over high heat. Then add smashed tomato sauce and a little water to make the sauce thickened. Take out the spices and make meat sauce. 3. Put spaghetti in and let it fully soak in the sauce, add salt and black pepper. Turn off the heat, add butter and cheese inside, stir them slowly and let them melt in the remaining heat of the pan. Spread Mozzarella cheese on it and put it in the oven for 3-5 minutes at 180°C, sprinkle some parsley on top.

小胖点评我很喜欢自己做的这道加了奶酪焗的意大利面。意大利面可以拉出黏稠的丝，很像比萨。意大利人煮面时通常煮 7 分钟左右，面吃起来有嚼劲。肉酱酸甜可口，融合奶酪的香气，浓稠、香醇，每根意大利面都裹足了肉酱，非常好吃。 My Comment: I made this dish all by myself and I liked this Italian baked spaghetti. The spaghetti is covered with sticky cheese like a freshly-made pizza. Italians usually cook spaghetti for about seven minutes until al dente. The meat sauce is sweet and sour and smells very nice. Every noodle of the spaghetti is immersed with the sauce, it is quite yummy.

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中国深圳篇

Ingredient：fresh sea bass, tomato, shallot, fresh fennel, basil, lemon, salt, white pepper, cream, butter, dill, olive oil. Method: 1. Cut tomato and shallot into dices, add basil, lemon juice, salt and white pepper inside, whisk and make tomato salsa. 2. Put cream and butter in the pan, stir them clockwise until they are fully mixed together, then add dill mince inside, and the dill butter sauce is done. 3. Marinate the sea bass with salt, white pepper, olive oil and lemon juice, fry it until it is medium well. Then fry fennel, and put the seared sea bass on the plate.

小胖点评这道菜的鱼肉很新鲜，经煎制后外焦里嫩。莳萝黄油汁增强了这道菜的香味和口感，番茄沙司淡淡的酸甜味让鱼的味道更加鲜美。 My Comment: Choose high-quality sea bass and sear it to let the fresh smell come out. Dill butter sauce adds fragrance and a smooth taste to it and the sourness and sweetness of tomato salsa makes it taste even fresher.

香煎海鲈鱼

Pan-seared Sea Bass

材料：新鲜海鲈鱼、番茄、红洋葱、新鲜茴香头、罗勒叶、柠檬、盐、白胡椒、奶油、黄油、莳萝、橄榄油做法：1. 将大番茄丁、红洋葱丁、罗勒叶丝、柠檬汁、盐、白胡椒放在一起搅拌均匀，做成番茄沙司。 2. 在冷锅中放入奶油、黄油，按同一方向搅拌均匀，然后加入莳萝碎，做成莳萝黄油汁。 3. 用盐、白胡椒、橄榄油、柠檬汁腌制海鲈鱼肉，然后用油煎至八成熟。另起锅炒熟茴香头，摆盘。

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中国深圳篇

提拉米苏

Tiramisu

材料：鸡蛋、糖、法国铁塔牌奶油、马沙拉酒、浓缩咖啡、手指饼、意大利玛斯卡波尼奶酪、可可粉做法：1. 先将蛋清和蛋黄分开，糖分成 3 份。将蛋清和 1 份糖打发，然后放入冰箱备用。将蛋黄和 1 份糖打起，加入奶酪、奶油，直到打起，做成奶酪酱。将打起的蛋清和蛋黄混合，再加入 1 份糖、马沙拉酒打发，做成蛋糊。 2. 在模型底部先放蛋糊，再放一层用咖啡泡过的手指饼，加一层奶酪酱，用保鲜膜封起来放入冰箱冷藏 2 ～ 3 小时。摆盘时撒上可可粉。 Ingredient：egg, sugar, French Elle & Vivre fresh cream, Marsala wine, espresso, lady-fingers, Italian Mascarpone cheese, cocoa Method: 1. Separate egg yolk with egg white, and divide white sugar into three parts. Whip egg white with white sugar and freeze it in the fridge. Whip egg yolk with white sugar while adding cheese and cream in it. Mix egg white and egg yolk with the rest white sugar and Marsala wine, whisk until they become mushy. 2. Put them in the mold, lay sauce at the bottom, then put lady-fingers soaked with coffee on it and a layer of Mascarpone cheese on top, seal them with preservative film and freeze them in the fridge for 2-3 hours. Before serving, top with cocoa.

小胖点评提拉米苏在意大利是家喻户晓的传统甜品。传说在第二次世界大战时期，一个意大利士兵即将前往战场，可是家里已经没有食物了，他的妻子为了给他准备干粮，把家里所有能吃的饼干、面包全部放进了一个糕点里，那个糕点就叫提拉米苏。每当这个士兵在战场上吃到提拉米苏时，就会想起家和心爱的人。提拉米苏在意大利语中是“带我走”的意思，现在提拉米苏意味着爱和幸福。 My Comment: This is a household dessert in Italy. It is said that during World War II, an Italian soldier was leaving for the battlefield, but there was no food at home. His wife used all the biscuits and bread at home to make a cake for him. This cake is called tiramisu. Whenever the soldier took out the tiramisu, it would remind him of his family and his beloved. Tiramisu in Italian means “take me away”, you not only take away the cake, but also the love and happiness that comes from the dessert.

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在国外学习、生活的这段时间，我在学校里天天吃西餐。西餐的日常饮食如中餐一样，不会像在餐厅里看到的食物的摆盘、酱汁、烹饪过程那样复杂，追求简单、便捷、营养、健康。西餐和中餐在食材、酱汁、香料、烹饪方法上虽有些不同，但家庭烹饪追求的理念是相同的。在家中，第一次使用烤箱制作“美式烧烤排骨”时，我先将整块排骨提前腌好，预热烤箱并设置温度和时间。烤时，因为担心把排骨烤焦了，所以经常打开烤箱观察并刷蜂蜜。后来，排骨的颜色逐渐由鲜红的肉色变为焦黄色，排骨上布满油脂，烤肉香气逐渐弥漫。尝了几次后，觉得火候还不够，于是继续烤。本来原计划烤 30 分钟，由于多次打开烤箱，最后用了 40 多分钟才完成了这道菜。拿出热气腾腾的整排排骨，温度极高，用刀费了好些功夫才切下一块来品尝，排骨肉嫩多汁，咸淡适中，只需轻轻一咬，肉即可脱骨，美味极了。 “白葡萄酒煮贻贝”这道菜，我试了两次后掌握了煮贻贝的时间和火候，那就是当贻贝口刚张开的时候立刻倒入淡奶油或牛奶煮开就可以出锅了；煮的时间过久，贻贝肉的口感会稍硬，我喜欢吃鲜嫩的贻贝。 “南瓜面”这道菜一次就成功了，让我很惊喜。把南瓜块用橄榄油拌好，加入培

家庭西餐篇

When I study abroad, I would often eat Western cuisine at school. Daily Western cuisine is more like what we have at home, and is not as complicated and carefully decorated like a dish from a Michelin restaurant. It is simple, convenient, nutritional and healthy. Even though Western cuisine is different from Chinese cuisine in ingredients, sauce, spices and cooking skills, the idea of cooking at home is pretty much the same. I tried to make “American Style Barbecued Pork Ribs” using an oven. I marinated the whole spareribs in advance, then prepared the oven and set the time and temperature. I kept opening the oven and adding honey to the ribs in case it overcooked. The color of the spareribs turned caramel as it baked and there was the fragrance of fat and roasted meat from the oven. I roasted the ribs for about 40 minutes. I took out the freshly-made spareribs and cut a slice, it tasted tender and juicy, and not too salty. With only one bite, the meat would fall off the bone and you could taste the roasted aroma of the spareribs, it was quite delicious. For the “White Wine Steamed Mussels”, I tried to make it twice to find the correct time and temperature. When the mussels open, you should immediately pour light cream or milk in it, the

根碎、百里香、盐、胡椒粉调味后放入烤箱烤。培根烤后的咸味、油脂的香味与南

clam meat will taste tough if being cooked for too long. I like it when the mussels are fresh and

瓜、咸奶酪融合出意想不到的味道，让这道简单的面食醇厚浓香。

tender.

“香煎三文鱼配红酒黄油汁烤橙味防风根”这道菜是在刘奇量厨师的指导下做出来的。烤橙味防风根是这道菜的关键，将防风根切成小块，放入橄榄油、胡椒粉、盐，再放入烤箱烤。然后把橙汁、青柠汁、糖放入平底锅中收浓稠汁，最后放入烤好的防风根拌匀。防风根酸的味道非常突出，搭配香煎三文鱼，给这道菜赋予了新的生命。我从开始认识西餐的食材，向大厨请教做菜的方法，到自己尝试制作西餐，这

The cooking of “Pumpkin Rigatoni” gave me quite the surprise when I succeeded in cooking it. Stir pumpkin chunks with olive oil, add bacon mince, thyme, sea salt and pepper in and roast it in the oven. The saltiness of the roasted bacon, the fragrance of oil and pumpkin and the salt tastes amazing and adds a uniqueness to this simple dish. The “Pan-seared Salmon with Orange Parsnip, Red Wine and Butter Sauce” was made under the instruction of Forrest Liu. Orange parsnip is the key to making this dish. Cut parsnip into small pieces, add olive oil, pepper and salt to it and roast in an oven, then add orange juice, lime juice and sugar to it and make until the sauce is thickened, put parsnip in and whisk them evenly.

个过程非常有趣。我并不是熟练掌握西餐烹饪技艺的大厨，只是慢慢了解西餐、学

The sourness of parsnip stands out very obviously, eat it with seared salmon, and it will inject new

习西餐烹饪、热爱美食的一个小胖子。我尝试制作的家庭西餐，像上文描述的那样

life to this dish.

经过多次实验，不断地改进口感和摆盘，我体验着这其中的快乐。我选择了 20 道菜推荐给大家。

From getting to know the Western cuisine ingredients, learning cooking skills from chefs to gradually making them by myself, the process was a learning process. I am not a sophisticated chef, just a food lover who wanted to learn about the culture of Western cuisine and how to make it step by step. I tried to make them at home, using different ingredients and cooking skills, and I tried to improve on their taste and decoration as well. Cooking brings me a sense of happiness and here I will show you the 20 dishes made all by myself in the following pages.

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菠菜、蘑菇沙拉配有机山羊奶酪 Spinach Mushroom Salad with Feta Cheese

材料：娃娃菠菜 50 克、山羊奶酪 25 克、白蘑菇 30 克、小红萝卜 1 个、油醋汁、小红葱末、红酒醋 50 毫升、初榨意大利橄榄油 50 毫升、羽衣甘蓝 20 克、黑胡椒、盐做法：1. 将菠菜、羽衣甘蓝、小红萝卜洗净、沥干。用小红葱末、红酒醋、橄榄油一起搅拌，放盐、黑胡椒调味。 2. 当锅七成热时倒入少许油，放蘑菇炒至全熟，关火，静置冷却。将菠菜、羽衣甘蓝、蘑菇放入大碗内，加一点油醋汁（油和醋比例 3 ∶ 1），均匀地撒上山羊奶酪和小红萝卜。 Ingredient：spinach 50g, feta cheese 25g, white mushroom 30g, one little radish, Italian vinaigrette dressing, shredded shallot, red wine vinegar 50ml, virgin Italian olive oil 50ml, collard 20g, black pepper, salt Method: 1. Wash the spinach, collard and little radish and dry them. Stir the shredded shallot and red wine vinegar in a bowl with olive oil, add salt and black pepper. 2. Pour oil in when the pan has been heated for a while, fry the mushroom and cook them until they become fully done, turn off the heat and set them aside. Put spinach, collard and mushroom in a big bowl, add Italian vinaigrette dressing (mix oil and vinegar of 3∶1 proportion) and top with feta cheese and little radish.

春季田园沙拉配蓝纹奶酪汁 Garden Salad with Blue Cheese Dressing

材料：球生菜、小红萝卜、有机黄瓜、小番茄、牛油果、紫番茄、红洋葱、蓝纹奶酪 200 克、白醋 25 毫升、35% 的淡奶油 100 毫升、橄榄油 50 毫升做法：1. 球生菜用手撕成小片，小红萝卜切成四半，有机黄瓜用专用刀刮成薄片，小番茄切成两半，牛油果肉切成小块泡在柠檬水中，紫番茄切片。红洋葱切薄丝，用水冲洗去除洋葱的辣味，用厨房纸吸干水分。 2. 将蓝纹奶酪、白醋、淡奶油、橄榄油、蔬菜拌匀。 Ingredient：cabbage, little radish, organic cucumber, mini tomato, avocado, purple tomato, red onion, blue cheese 200g, white vinegar 25ml, 35% light cream 100ml, olive oil 50ml Method: 1. Wash the vegetables, rip the cabbage into small pieces, cut a little radish into four parts, slice cucumber and purple tomato, cut a mini tomato in half, cut an avocado into dices and soak them in lemon juice, cut a red onion into shreds. Wash the onion until its spiciness goes away then dry them with a kitchen tissue. 2. Whisk blue cheese, white vinegar, light cream, olive oil and vegetables together.

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华尔道夫沙拉

Waldorf Salad

材料：卷心莴苣 1 片、苹果 300 克、西芹 150 克、美乃滋 80 克、盐、柠檬、胡椒盐、碎核桃仁 30 克、葡萄干做法：1. 将卷心莴苣洗净撕成片状，碎核桃仁烤酥。将苹果洗净，去皮、去芯后切大丁，放入加少许盐、柠檬汁的饮用水中浸泡，沥干。将西芹洗净去皮切丁，汆烫时水中加少许盐，捞起后放在冰水中冷却，沥干。 2. 将西芹、苹果、核桃仁、美乃滋、胡椒盐放在一起拌匀。将拌好的蔬菜、水果放在卷心莴苣的叶片上，用核桃仁、葡萄干装饰。 Ingredient：cabbage, apple 300g, celery 150g, mayonnaise 80g, salt, lemon, pepper salt, shredded walnut nut 30g, raisin Method: 1. Wash the cabbage and tear in into pieces, roast the shredded walnut nut. Wash an apple, remove the skin and its core, cut it into dices. Put salt and lemon juice in water and soak the diced apple, then dry it and set it aside. Wash the celery, remove its skin and cut it into dices. Quickly cook it in boiling water, add little salt in case the nutrition loses. Then put it in water to cool, then dry it. 2. Whisk celery, apple, shredded walnut nut, mayonnaise and pepper salt together. Put the salad in a piece of cabbage leaf and decorate it with walnut nut and raisin.

恺撒沙拉

Caesar Salad

材料：长叶生菜 360 克、白吐司 1 片、培根 30 克、鸡蛋 2 个、柠檬汁 20 毫升、第戎芥末酱 5 克、鳀鱼肉 4 片、橄榄油 30 毫升、塔巴斯克辣酱、辣酱油、帕玛森奶酪粉 20 克、胡椒盐、大蒜 10 克做法：1. 长叶生菜洗净撕成大片，沥干水备用。将吐司切小丁，放入烤箱烤至金黄色。将培根切成小条，煎成脆皮状。 2. 在蛋黄中加入柠檬汁、第戎芥末酱、磨碎的鳀鱼肉搅拌至膨发，再慢慢倒入橄榄油搅拌至膨发，然后加入塔巴斯科辣酱、辣酱油、帕玛森奶酪粉、胡椒盐、大蒜末，充分混合后做成恺撒沙拉酱汁。 3. 将长叶生菜、恺撒沙拉酱汁拌匀。摆盘，先放长叶生菜，再撒上培根、吐司丁、帕玛森奶酪粉，最后淋上酱汁。 Ingredient：lettuce 360g, one piece of toast, bacon 30g, two eggs, lemon juice 20ml, Dijon mustard 5g, four slice of anchovy meat, olive oil 30ml, Tabassi sauce, chili oil, Parmesan cheese powder 20g, pepper salt, garlic 10g Method: 1. Wash the lettuce and tear it into pieces and then dry it. Cut toast into dices, roast it in oven until it becomes browned. Cut bacon into slices, and fry them until their brink rolls up. 2. Take egg yolk, add lemon juice, Dijon mustard, minced anchovy and olive oil and stir them. Then add Tabassi sauce, chili oil and Parmesan cheese powder, mix them together and the Caesar sauce is done. 3. Stir lettuce and Caesar sauce together. Put lettuce on the plate, spread bacon, toast dice, Parmesan cheese powder and sauce on top.

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奶油洋菇浓汤

家庭西餐篇

西蓝花汤

Creamy Mushroom Soup

材料：洋菇 300 克、洋葱 50 克、西芹 25 克、荷兰芹、百里香、月桂叶 2 片、鸡

材料：西蓝花 1 棵、菠菜 200 克、洋葱半个、土豆 1 个、大蒜 2 瓣、培根 1 片、鸡

骨高汤 800 毫升、奶油 30 克、蒜白 25 克、胡椒盐、鲜奶油 60 毫升

汤 400 毫升、淡奶油 50 毫升、蓝奶酪 50 克、海盐、黑胡椒、核桃仁 100 克、

做法：1. 将蒜白切片，洋葱、西芹切丝，洋菇去根切成 3 毫米的片备用。 2. 热锅熔化奶油，炒香蒜白片、洋葱丝、西芹丝、百里香、月桂叶，加入 220

Broccoli Soup

橄榄油做法：1. 用橄榄油炒洋葱、蒜、培根约 3 分钟，放入土豆块用中火炒 5 分钟，倒入

克洋菇片将其炒软，再加入鸡骨高汤熬煮至所有材料软化。取出月桂叶，放入

鸡汤煮 5 分钟至土豆变软，再放西蓝花煮 5 分钟至熟。

搅拌机中搅拌，加胡椒盐调味，再放入锅中加入鲜奶油煮至味道融合。

2. 平底锅内放入菠菜和水，炒熟。把炒熟的菠菜和汁倒入搅拌机搅拌成深绿

3. 热锅，放入 80 克洋菇炒至水分蒸发，加一点奶油炒出香味，使洋菇呈金

色的汁，然后倒入放有洋葱、蒜、培根、土豆块、西蓝花的汤里。

黄色，作为汤的配料。

3. 用搅拌机把汤再次搅碎，加入奶油、蓝奶酪，待奶酪溶化后加盐、黑胡

4. 装盘，汤上放几片洋菇片，撒荷兰芹碎作装饰。

椒调味。把汤装碗，上面撒核桃碎。

Ingredient：white mushroom 300g, onion

Ingredient：one broccoli, spinach 200g,

50g, celery 25g, parsley, thyme, two pieces

half onion, one potato, two cloves of garlic,

of myrcia, chicken bone soup 800ml, cream

one slice of bacon, chicken soup 400ml,

30g, leek white 25g, pepper salt, fresh

light cream 50ml, blue cheese 50g, sea salt,

cream 60ml

black pepper, walnut nut 100g, olive oil

Method: 1. Cut the white mushroom roots

Method: 1. Fry an onion, garlic and bacon for

into 0.3cm thick slices, cut the leek, onion and

about three minutes with olive oil, put diced

celery into slices.

potato in and fry it for five minutes in medium

2. Melt cream in hot pan, fry sliced leek, onion

heat, pour chicken soup inside and cook until

and celery, put thyme and myrcia inside. Add

potato gets soft. Then put broccoli in and cook

220g sliced white mushroom in and fry it until

for five minutes.

it gets soft, add chicken bone soup and boil it.

2. Put spinach and water in the pan and fry for

Take myrcia from the soup, then smash the

three minutes. Whisk into a dark green juice,

mushroom soup in a stirring machine, add

then pour it in the soup.

pepper salt and fresh cream inside, boil until

3. Whisk again, add cream and blue cheese

they fully mix together.

in, when the cheese melts, add salt. Pour the

3. Preheat a pan, add 80g white mushrooms

soup in a bowl, and sprinkle shredded walnut

inside, fry it until its water evaporates, add

nut on top.

some cream and fry it until it turns browned. 4. Put some pieces of sliced mushroom on top of the soup, shred parsley and spread it on the soup.

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香煎三文鱼配红酒黄油汁烤橙味防风根 Pan-seared Salmon with Orange Parsnip, Red Wine and Butter Sauce

烤橙味防风根材料：防风根 350 克、橙汁 300 克、青柠汁 50 克、糖 75 克、橄榄油、盐、胡椒粉做法：1. 将防风根洗净后切小块，撒橄榄油、胡椒粉、盐，放入烤箱 350 ℉或 180℃烤 15 分钟至金黄。 2. 把橙汁、青柠汁、糖放入锅内小火收浓稠汁，避免糖煮焦，放入防风根搅拌均匀。香煎三文鱼配红酒黄油汁材料：挪威三文鱼 1 块 350 克、小红葱末 50 克、红酒 200 克、红酒醋 50 克、黄油 150 克、青番茄 1 个、紫番茄 1 个、盐、胡椒粉做法：1. 将小红葱、红酒、红酒醋一起收汁，收干到 1/3 后关火，将黄油用打蛋器打入汁内（温度控制在 60 ～ 70℃）。撒盐、胡椒粉调味，做成红酒黄油汁。 2. 平底锅七成热，用橄榄油将三文鱼鱼皮面朝下撒胡椒、盐煎至金黄，约 2 分钟，翻另一面再煎 2 分钟。 3. 摆盘，先放防风根，再放三文鱼、番茄片，最后淋红酒黄油汁。 Orange Parsnip Ingredient：parsnip 350g, orange juice 300g, lime juice 50g, sugar 75g, olive oil, salt, pepper Method: 1. Cut parsnip into dices, add olive oil, pepper and salt in it, and then roast it in an oven for fifteen minutes at 350°F or 180°C until it becomes browned.

杏仁炒刀豆

Green Beans Fried Almond

材料：刀豆 200 克、杏仁片 70 克、黄油 15 克、鸡汤 50 毫升、帕玛森奶酪粉、盐、胡椒粉做法：1. 将刀豆分拣整形、洗净，煮沸开水中加入少许盐，放刀豆煮至八成熟，捞

2. Pour orange juice, lime juice and sugar in the pot, cook them over low heat until the sauce becomes thickened. Prevent the sugar from getting burned, then put parsnip in and stir them. Red Wine and Butter Sauce Ingredient：Norwegian salmon 350g, shredded shallot 50g, red wine 200g, red wine vinegar 50g, butter 150g, one green tomato, one purple tomato,

出泡入冰水中冷却。

salt, pepper

2. 另起锅倒入鸡汤，放入黄油、刀豆收汁。将杏仁片倒入锅中翻炒，盐、胡

Method: 1. Cook shallot, red wine and red wine vinegar

椒粉调味。摆盘，撒帕玛森奶酪粉。

until they become thickened, use an eggbeater to whisk the butter, then slowly pour it in the sauce (control the temperature around 60-70°C). Sprinkle salt and pepper

Ingredient：green beans 200g, almond 70g, butter 15g, chicken soup 50ml, Parmesan cheese powder, salt, pepper Method: 1. Clear and clean green beans, boil the water then put a little salt and the green beans inside, cook beans until they are nearly done, then put them in iced water to cool, which will make them crispy. 2. Pour chicken soup, butter and green beans in the pot and cook until the soup becomes thickened, then add almond, salt and pepper inside and sprinkle Parmesan cheese powder on top.

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on it and make red wine and butter sauce. 2. Preheat a pan, put the skin side on the pan, spread pepper and salt on it and fry it with olive oil for about two minutes until it becomes browned, then turn it over and fry the other side for another two minutes. 3. Put orange parsnip on the plate, then the seared salmon and sliced tomato on top and pour red wine.

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白葡萄酒煮贻贝

White Wine Steamed Mussels

材料：新鲜贻贝、黄油 50 克、洋葱 1 个、大蒜 3 瓣、白葡萄酒 1 杯、淡奶油 75 毫升、意大利香菜做法：1. 用刷子将贻贝刷洗干净。用黄油把洋葱和蒜炒 4 分钟，再倒入白葡萄酒煮 5 分钟，闻不到酒味时倒入贻贝。 2. 加盖子煮至贻贝开口时倒入淡奶油，撒上意大利香菜。 Ingredient： fresh mussels, butter 50g, one onion, three cloves of garlic, one glass of white wine, light cream 75ml, Italian cilantro Method: 1. Clean the mussel shell with a brush, fry the onion and garlic for four minutes with butter, pour white wine in and cook for five minutes, then put mussels in. 2. Cover it and cook for seven minutes until the mussels open, pour light cream in and sprinkle some cilantro on top.

香煎扇贝配烤茄子、荷兰汁 Pan-fried Scallop with Barbecued Eggplant and Hollandaise Sauce

材料：扇贝 5 粒、茄子 1 个、青番茄 1 个、蛋黄 2 个、黄油 50 克、盐、黑胡椒、橄榄油、柠檬汁做法：1. 先烧一锅热水，水冒气后保持小火即可。在不锈钢碗内放入 2 个蛋黄和 2 汤匙热水，放在热水上用水蒸气加热并用打蛋器慢慢打发，待蛋黄打发成型后加入黄油，混合均匀后加盐、黑胡椒调味，做成荷兰汁。 2. 将茄子切成两半，抹上橄榄油、盐、黑胡椒，再用炭火以小火慢烤，或用烤箱烤，直至松软。 3. 平底锅九成热时放橄榄油，将扇贝煎至两面金黄，放一小块黄油和柠檬汁增加一些香味。 4. 摆盘，将荷兰汁“画”在盘子内，放上扇贝、烤茄子、青番茄块。 Ingredient： five scallops, one eggplant, one green tomato, two egg yolks, butter 50g, salt, black pepper, olive oil, lemon juice Method: 1. Boil water until steam comes out, then switch to low heat. Put an egg yolk and two spoons of hot water in a bowl, heat it on the steam and slowly whisk it with an eggbeater over low heat. When the egg yolk is almost done, add butter, salt and black pepper inside and make Hollandaise sauce. 2. Cut an eggplant in half, wipe olive oil, salt and black pepper on it, roast it on charcoal or in the oven until it becomes soft. 3. Preheat a pan, pour oil it and fry scallops until both sides become browned, put a small piece of butter and some lemon juice in to add flavor. 4. Drizzle with hollandaise on the plate, put scallops, barbecued eggplants and diced green tomato on it.

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脆皮烤鸡

Crispy Roasted Chicken

材料：2.5 磅嫩鸡 1 只、大蒜 1 颗、百里香 1 把、迷迭香 1 把、黄油 50 克、盐、黑胡椒做法：1. 将烤箱预热至 400 ℉或 200℃，将整只鸡内外均匀地涂抹盐、黑胡椒，把大蒜、百里香、迷迭香放入鸡的肚子里。 2. 将整只鸡放在烤盘上，鸡胸面朝上，放一块黄油在鸡的表面，入烤箱烤 25 分钟。 Ingredient：one 2.5-pound chicken, one garlic, a handful of rosemary and thyme, butter 50g, salt, black pepper Method: 1. Preheat the oven at 400°F or 200°C. Wipe salt evenly inside and outside the chicken, put garlic, thyme and rosemary inside. 2. Put the whole chicken on the plate with the breast faces upward, put a piece of butter on its surface and roast it for 25 minutes.

香煎羊排配时令蔬菜 Seared Lamb Rack with Seasonal Vegetables

材料：澳洲羊排 1 块、青菜 1 棵、小土豆 3 个、彩虹萝卜每种颜色各 1 个、羽衣甘蓝 4 片、孢子甘蓝 4 粒、黄油、盐、黑胡椒做法：1. 将蔬菜洗净，煮沸开水后放少许盐，将蔬菜焯水至七成熟，捞起放在冰水中，沥干。在冷水中放入小土豆，小火慢煮至八成熟。 2. 平底锅九成热淋少许油，冒烟时将羊排肥肉多的一面放入锅内煎至两面金黄上色（每面约煎 1 分钟），再将羊排放入烤箱 450 ℉或 230℃烤 6 分钟。 3. 用黄油将所有蔬菜炒匀，加盐、黑胡椒调味，羊排放在蔬菜上即可。 Ingredient： one piece of Australian lamb rack, one Chinese cabbage, three small potatoes, different color carrots, four pieces of collard, four spore vegetables, butter, salt, black pepper Method: 1. Wash the vegetables, boil water and put a little salt in it. Put the vegetables in it and cook until they are almost done. Take them out and put them in iced water. Put potatoes in the pot and cook them until they are medium well. 2. Preheat a pan, pour a little oil in it. When smoke appears, put the fat side of the lamb rack at the bottom, fry it until it turns browned, then roast it in oven for six minutes at 450°F or 230°C. 3. Fry vegetables with butter, add salt and black pepper in. When it is done, put the lamb rack on top.

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香煎牛柳

Seared Beef Sirloin

材料：牛里脊肉、盐、黑胡椒、蒜味美乃滋、橄榄油做法：1. 将牛里脊肉用橄榄油大火两面煎至上色，放盐、黑胡椒调味。 2. 预热烤箱 450 ℉或 230℃，靠垫烤 5 分钟，静置 5 分钟，摆盘。 Ingredient：beef sirloin, salt, black pepper, garlic mayonnaise, olive oil Method: 1. Sirloin is the most tender part of the beef, fry it until both sides turn browned, add salt and black pepper. 2. Preheat the oven at 450°F or 230°C, roast the sirloin for five minutes and set it aside for another five minutes, then decorate the plate.

美式烧烤猪排骨

American Style Barbecued Pork Ribs

材料：猪排骨 300 克、大蒜碎 20 克、洋葱碎 50 克、番茄辣酱 30 克、辣椒籽 8 克、黄芥末 8 克、蜂蜜 8 毫升、酱油、盐、黑胡椒碎做法：1. 把猪排骨洗净，剁成 8 厘米的长段放在容器中。将番茄辣酱、辣椒籽、黄芥末、酱油、盐、黑胡椒碎、大蒜碎、洋葱碎搅拌均匀，涂抹在猪排骨上，腌制 2 小时。 2. 烤箱预热 350 ℉或 180℃，将腌制好的猪排骨烤制 30 分钟，每隔 10 分钟刷一次蜂蜜，烤成金黄色。 Ingredient：pork ribs 300g, shredded garlic 20g, shredded onion 50g, tomato chili sauce 30g, chili seed 8g, yellow mustard 8g, honey 8ml, soy, salt, shredded black pepper Method: 1. Clean pork ribs and cut them into 8cm long matchsticks, put them in a container. Marinate the pork ribs with tomato chili sauce, chili seed, yellow mustard, soy, salt, shredded black pepper, shredded garlic and shredded onion for two hours. 2. Preheat the oven at 350°F or 180°C, roast the ribs for 30 minutes, rub honey on it every ten minutes until it turns browned.

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家庭西餐篇

Chili Beef Pizza

材料：高筋面粉 200 克、黄油 5 克、酵母 2 克、牛里脊肉 200 克、橄榄油 8 毫升、辣椒粉 20 克、番茄辣酱 20 克、比萨酱 30 克、洋葱 30 克、阿里根奴 1 克、马苏里拉奶酪 100 克、萨拉米、盐做法：1. 比萨坯：酵母用 110 毫升的温水溶化；面粉中加盐、黄油、酵母水，和成表面光滑的面团，再盖上保鲜膜发至原体积的 2 倍大。将醒发好的面团擀成 8 寸大的面皮，平铺在涂抹有一层黄油的比萨烤盘中，用牙签扎若干小孔，再醒发 10 ～ 20 分钟。 2. 将牛里脊肉切丝。热锅放入橄榄油，八成油温时放牛里脊肉丝炒 2 分钟，放辣椒粉、番茄辣酱调味。洋葱去皮、洗净切丝，马苏里拉奶酪擦成丝备用。 3. 将比萨酱均匀地抹在比萨坯的表面，再放牛里脊肉丝、洋葱丝，撒少许盐和一半的阿里根奴，均匀地放上马苏里拉奶酪丝，最后撒上剩下的阿里根奴和萨拉米。 4. 将比萨坯放入烤箱 350 ℉或 180℃烤 12 分钟。 Ingredient：bread flour 200g, butter 5g, yeast 2g, sirloin 200g, olive oil 8ml, chili powder 20g, tomato chili sauce 20g, pizza sauce 30g, onion 30g, oregano 1g, Mozzarella cheese 100g, salami, salt

南瓜面（两人份）

Pumpkin Rigatoni For Two

Method: 1. Pizza paste: melt yeast with 110ml warm water, pour flour in the container, add salt and little butter in, knead into a smooth dough, cover it with preservative film until it inflates to twice its original size. Then roll it into an eight-inch paste, spread it on the plate wiped with butter, poke several holes on it and leave it there for 10-20 minutes. 2. Clean sirloin and cut into shreds. Put olive oil in the pan, fry shredded beef for two minutes with hot oil, add chili powder and tomato chili sauce in. Skin the onion and cut it into shreds, cut Mozzarella cheese into shreds. 3. Wipe pizza sauce on the paste, spread sirloin shred, onion shred, salt and half oregano on top evenly. Spread cheese shred on it, then spread the rest oregano and salami on top. 4. Preheat the oven at 350°F or 180°C, and put the pizza paste in it for twelve minutes.

材料：通心粉 250 克、南瓜 125 克、培根 1 片、红葱头 2 个、菠菜 100 克、大蒜 2 瓣、百里香、盐、黑胡椒、奶油奶酪 20 克、核桃仁 1 匙、南瓜子 1 大匙、芝麻菜 15 克、罗勒 15 克、橄榄油 20 毫升做法：1. 将南瓜切块，拌入橄榄油，加入培根碎、百里香、盐、黑胡椒，放入烤盘，烤箱 350 ℉或 180℃上下烤 15 ～ 20 分钟。 2. 南瓜快烤好时，开始煮通心粉，水里加少许盐，通心粉煮至有弹性较好。 3. 平底锅中倒入油，中火炒软红葱头、蒜，再放菠菜炒软。放入通心粉，加入南瓜和 20 克奶油奶酪，放一点煮通心粉的水让奶酪溶化。最后放核桃、南瓜子、芝麻菜、罗勒、奶油奶酪，搅拌均匀即可。 Ingredient：rigatoni 250g, pumpkin 125g, one slice of bacon, two shallots, spinach 100g, two cloves of garlic, thyme, salt, black pepper, cream cheese 20g, one spoon of walnut nut, one spoon of pumpkin seed, rocket salad 15g, basil 15g, olive oil 20ml Method: 1. Cut a pumpkin into chunks, stir it with olive oil, add shredded bacon, thyme, sea salt and pepper in it. Roast it for 15-20 minutes at 350°F or 180°C until it turns soft. 2. When it is almost done, cook rigatoni. Put a little salt in water and cook until al dente. 3. Pour oil in a pan, fry shallot, garlic for four minutes, then put spinach in and fry it for about one minute. Put rigatoni, roasted pumpkin and 20g cream cheese in the pan, melt cheese with a little hot water. Put walnut nut, pumpkin seed, the rest cheese, rocket salad and basil in it and stir together.

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牛排三明治

Steak Sandwich

材料：小法棍 1 根、牛里脊 250 克、迷迭香 20 克、百里香 20 克、橄榄油、海盐、黑胡椒、黄油 40 克、芥末酱、芝麻菜 50 克做法：1. 搓一搓迷迭香和百里香，滴少许橄榄油泡 15 分钟。用橄榄油、海盐、黑胡椒将牛里脊腌制 10 分钟。 2. 热锅，给牛里脊肉刷上含迷迭香和百里香的橄榄油，每面煎 1 分钟左右。煎好的肉上放 1 小块黄油，静置 2 分钟后切厚片。 3. 将小法棍用刀从中间切开，法棍内涂抹芥末酱，放入芝麻菜、牛肉厚片，最后倒入煎牛肉的汁。 Ingredient：one baguette, sirloin 250g, rosemary 20g, thyme 20g, olive oil, sea salt, black pepper, butter 40g, mustard, rocket salad 50g Method: 1. Soak rosemary and thyme in olive oil for fifteen minutes. Marinate the steak with olive oil, sea salt and black pepper for ten minutes. 2. Preheat a pan, rub olive oil on the steak with rosemary and thyme, fry each side for one minute. Set it aside for two minutes, put a small piece of butter on it, and then cut it into thick slices. 3. Spread mustard on a baguette, place the rocket salad and steak in it and pour the steak juice on top.

番茄培根面

Tomato Bacon Spaghetti

材料：意大利面 150 克、洋葱 1 个、培根 3 条、帕尔玛奶酪 50 克、橄榄油、番茄罐头、辣椒粉、盐、黑胡椒做法：1. 洋葱切碎、培根切丁、奶酪擦碎。 2. 平底锅加热放橄榄油，将培根、洋葱碎炒至金黄色。加入番茄罐头、辣椒粉大火煮 2 分钟后转中火煮 8 ～ 10 分钟，搅拌，放盐、黑胡椒调味，做成番茄酱汁。 3. 煮意大利面时，水中加少许盐，煮至有弹性为最佳。沥干水放入盘中，淋上橄榄油，放番茄酱汁，撒奶酪碎和黑胡椒。 Ingredient：spaghetti 150g, one onion, three slices of bacon, Parmesan cheese 50g, olive oil, canned tomato, chili powder, salt, black pepper Method: 1. Shred onion, bacon and cheese. 2. Pour olive oil in a pan, fry shredded bacon and onion until browned. Add canned tomato and chili powder in, cook them for two minutes over high heat then for 8-10 minutes over medium heat. Stir it from time to time and season it with salt and black pepper. 3. When cooking spaghetti, add a little salt in the water, cook until al dente, dry it and put it on the plate, pour olive oil and tomato sauce on it, then spread minced cheese and black pepper.

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Deviled Eggs

材料：鸡蛋、盐 2 克、白醋 3 毫升、黑胡椒 1 克、大藏芥末 1 克、蛋黄酱 20 克、草莓、薄荷叶做法：1. 汤锅置中火上，倒入水烧开，放入鸡蛋，盖上锅盖小火煮 3 分钟后熄火，再盖着锅盖焖 3 分钟，然后将鸡蛋捞出放入冷水中冷却。草莓切碎。 2. 将鸡蛋去皮。用刀把鸡蛋纵向切成两半，把蛋黄挖出并放入碗中碾碎，加入盐、白醋、黑胡椒、大藏芥末、蛋黄酱搅拌均匀，再将拌好的蛋黄放在蛋白的凹陷处，放草莓碎、薄荷叶点缀。 Ingredient：egg, salt 2g, white vinegar 3ml, black pepper 1g, Dijon mustard 1g, mayonnaise 20g, strawberry, mint Method: 1. Boil water over medium heat, put the whole egg in. Cover the cap and cook for three minutes over low heat. Turn off the heat, leave it there for three minutes, take the egg out and let it cool. Shred strawberry. 2. Skin the egg, cut it in half and pick out the egg yolk. Whisk it in a bowl with salt, white vinegar, black pepper, Dijon mustard and mayonnaise. Then put the egg mixture back in the egg white, decorate it with shredded strawberry and mint.

迷你水果塔

Fruit Tartlets

材料：淡奶油 150 毫升、酸奶 2 大勺、糖粉 70 克、蜂蜜 1 勺、蓝莓、树莓、草莓、牛奶 250 毫升、蛋黄 3 个、糖 60 克、无盐黄油 100 克、香草香精 5 毫升、面粉 200 克、盐 5 克、玉米淀粉 25 克做法：1. 将糖粉、无盐黄油、盐、牛奶、香草香精放入搅拌机低速混合均匀，慢慢加入蛋黄、面粉搅拌均匀成面团，用保鲜膜包起来放在冰箱冷藏 1 小时左右。 2. 取出面团，用擀面杖擀成 4 毫米厚的小面片，放入花形塔模中，底部用叉子叉几个小孔，做成塔皮。将塔皮放入烤箱 350 ℉或 180℃烤 12 ～ 15 分钟，直至变成金黄色，取出冷却。 3. 打发奶油，加入糖、玉米淀粉、酸奶、香精搅拌均匀。把水果切成小块，在塔皮中放入调好的奶油，再放草莓、树莓、蓝莓，淋上蜂蜜，撒上一点糖粉。 Ingredient：light cream 150ml, two spoons of yogurt, sugar powder 70g, one spoon of honey, blueberry, raspberry, strawberry, milk 250ml, three egg yolks, sugar 60g, salt-free butter 100g, vanilla 5ml, flour 200g, salt 5g, cornstarch 25g Method: 1. Put sugar powder, salt-free butter, salt, milk, vanilla in the stirring machine, add three egg yolks and 200g flour in slowly. When the dough is ready, cover it with preservative film and freeze it for about one hour. 2. Take out the dough, roll it into 4mm thick paste, put them in the floral shape mold, poke some holes at its bottom. Roast them for 12-15 minutes in the oven at 350°F or 180°C until the tartlets become browned. Take them out and put them on the shelf to cool. 3. Whip cream with sugar, cornstarch, yogurt and vanilla. Cut the fruit into dice, pour cream in the tartlet or use a piping bag to squeeze it out, decorate it with strawberry, raspberry and blueberry. Sprinkle honey and sugar powder on top.

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书稿即将完成，我有种如释重负的感觉。脑海中浮现出很多在这一年半的时间里所发生的事情，同时，我也很期待下一段旅程。

寻找食物的灵魂

日本是我很想去的地方，不仅想看富士山和樱花，更爱寿司和拉面，品尝小野二郎寿司的愿望我已经期待了很久。小野二郎现已 92 岁，是全世界年纪最大的米其林三星主厨，“寿司第一人”的美称享誉全球。二郎寿司店只能容纳十几人，用餐需要提前一至两个月预约，这家店只卖寿司。寿司在小野二郎的手中轻轻地捏，放鱼片，刷油，动作优美而有节奏。很多人都惊叹制作方法这么简单，味道竟会如此有深度。米其林调查员说：“不管吃过几次，二郎寿司总是令人赞叹，唯有三星足以匹配该餐厅，我在那里从来不曾失望过，简直就是奇迹。”选择优质的食材，注重每个细节，把寿司做到最好，70 多年来热爱自己的工作，全身心投入并穷尽一生磨练技能，这就是小野二郎成功的秘诀，也是让很多人尊重他的原因。品尝我喜欢的寿司和拉面，寻找食物的灵魂，我迫不及待地开始计划日本的旅程。此刻，耳边响起许巍的歌《旅行》： “阵阵晚风吹动着松涛，吹响这风铃声如天

在一年半的时间里，我带着美食梦，走访了许多地方。每一个故事，每一张照片，每一种味道都让我回味无穷。

籁，站在这城市的寂静处，让一切喧嚣走远 ……” 带着我的美食梦继续前行 ……

我曾看过电影《拉面女孩》，讲述的是生活在东京的美国女孩，与男朋友分手后，她对未来非常迷惘。为找到人生的方向，她决定成为一名拉面师，然而教她手

In Pursuit of the Soul of Food

艺的店主却出奇地苛刻。她多次尝试后都没有做出满意的拉面，她找到店主的母亲，老奶奶说：“做拉面时要在安静的地方，充满纯洁的爱，用心地煮出好的肉汤，找到食物的灵魂，才能做出最好的拉面。”后来，女孩终于煮出了令人感动的拉面。这部电影让我印象深刻，安静的地方、用纯洁的爱、用心地做、食物的灵魂，我深深地记住了这几个关键词。我尝试做菜的过程，最初是模仿，后来逐渐加入了自己体会到的新鲜元素，虽然刀工不好，做的菜也显得不专业，但在多次试验后，我找到了自认为最好的味道。我曾在多伦多圣劳伦斯市场买了一块不是很厚的优质牛柳，肉的纹路很漂亮。用海

My Western cuisine gourmet journey lasted for a year and a half – every story that I experienced, every photo that I took, every flavor that I tasted – all the unforgettable moments continue to resonate in my memory. I remember watching a movie named The Ramen Girl . It told the story of American girl who lives in Tokyo after she broke up with her boyfriend. She felt lost, uncertain of her future so she decided to seek a new goal by becoming a ramen chef. However, the restaurant owner who she worked for was very strict and mean. She failed many times until one day she talked with the owner’s mother, the old granny told her that she should go to a quiet place and try to make the ramen soup wholeheartedly. “Find the soul of food, and then you can make the best ramen,” the

盐和黑胡椒稍微腌一下，然后用油两面煎制，用迷迭香蘸着油刷在牛柳上，每面撒

old granny tells her. In the end, the girl successfully made a heart-felt ramen by herself. Cooking

上黑胡椒、海盐煎至变色。煎好后，在牛柳上放一块黄油，静置 3 分钟后摆盘。牛

with a heart full of peace, love and purity and searching for the soul of food, I was deeply touched

柳表面呈深棕色，肉切开后呈粉红色，吃起来外焦里嫩，汁水丰富，咸味恰到好处，表面放的黄油提升了牛扒的口感，这是我做的好吃得让自己几乎流泪的牛扒。找到

by the movie and I will remember these words forever. During the process of learning Western cuisine, I tried to follow the chef’s recipe at first, and then I tried to add some new elements from what I saw and tasted in my dishes. Even though my

最佳的食材，用简单的烹饪方法，内心充满爱地为自己做一道菜，让我感受到了食

cutting and cooking skills are raw and unprofessional, I tried my best to find the best flavors after

物美妙的滋味，心情愉悦而美好。

many trials. Once I bought a piece of thick and fresh beef tenderloin at the St Lawrence Market, its

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fat and texture looked quite pretty. I marinated it with sea salt and black pepper, and then I dipped rosemary in the oil and on the beef tenderloin; I sprinkled black pepper and sea salt on both sides and fried until it turned browned. Then I put butter on it and set it aside for three minutes, and lastly decorated the plate. The tenderloin looked dark brown outside, and you could see the pink

Reference

参考文献：

Lu L M. [M]. Knowledge of Western Cooking.

flesh after cutting it. It was rare and very juicy, the salt flavor was perfect and the butter on top

陆理民 . 西餐工艺与实训 [M]. 北京：

made it taste even better. This is quite a touching flavor, which deserves to be tasted with your

中国旅游出版社，2013.

Le Cordon Bleu. [M]. Wine Essentials.

法国蓝带厨艺学院 . 法国蓝带葡萄酒

Translated by Yao G L & Mou L. Beijing:

heart. Find the best ingredients, use a simple cooking method and make your steak with a sincere attitude. I feel pleasant and really enjoyed the fantastic taste of food. This is almost the end of the book, I feel quite relieved after a one and a half years’ effort. Many scenes are recalled and kept haunting my mind. I cannot wait to start the next journey. Japan is the place that I always want to go to, not only to see Mount Fuji and the blooming

宝典 [M]. 姚汩櫺，牟雷，译 . 北京：

Beijing: China Tourism Press. 2013.

China Light Industry Press. 2012. Other information like names of the dish,

中国轻工业出版社，2012.

menus and chefs’ names is from the

部分资料参考自各餐厅的官方网站 .

restaurants’ official website.

cherry trees; most importantly, I want to taste sushi and ramen, especially the sushi made by Jiro Ono, who is 92 years old now and regarded as the “God of Sushi” in Japan. He is also the oldest Michelin Three-Star chef in the world. His store can only hold several people at a time, and you have to book it at least one to two months in advance, and it only serves sushi. Jiro Ono gently pinches the rice, puts sliced fish on it and rubs it with the oil – the process is elegant and rhythmic. People always wonder why such simple ingredients can have such a profound meaning. A Michelin researcher once said, “That no matter how many times you come here, Jiro Ono’s sushi will always amaze you. Only a Michelin Three-Star award winning chef can serve it right because you will never be disappointed here, it really is a miracle.” Choose high-quality ingredients, focus on every detail, and make the best sushi – Jiro Ono loves his job, he devotes wholeheartedly into it and spares no efforts to practice his skill for more than 70 years. This is the secret of his success and why people respect him. I am looking forward to tasting my favorite sushi and ramen and seeking “the soul of food” in my next gourmet journey to Japan. At the moment, an inspiring song called “Journey” sung by the Chinese folk song singer Wei Xu, is echoing in my ears, “the evening wind breezes through the leaves of the pine tree, the ring of the windbell sounds like songs from Heaven; standing at a tranquil corner in the city, let the riot be driven away…” I will keep moving on with my gourmet dream…

摄影：邬稼铭、丁艳、徐彦波英文翻译：邬稼铭、绍菲 Photography: Michael Wu, Dina Ding, Yanbo Xu Translation: Michael Wu, Shaofei

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小眼睛看美食西餐篇2017 10 17