What is the Impact of Social Media on Consumer Culture & How Does It Contribute to Over-Consumption?
MICHELE ISHOLA S00902077 FSD503 THEORETICAL STUDIES IN FASHION ASSESSMENT 2
WHAT IS THE IMPACT OF SOCIAL MEDIA ON CONSUMER CULTURE & HOW DOES IT CONTRIBUTE TO OVERCONSUMPTION?
It wouldn’t be absurd to suggest that the rise of social media has thoroughly dominated the fashion industry, to the point where, the idea that the industry has been completely reinvented by it, isn’t a terribly crazy thing to say. Once a trade that was solely built on textiles and fibres, the industry has gone through an outright transformation; one that may be permanent, as society becomes increasingly habituated in this technological world. Conventionally, the fashion industry is a consumerist business. The industry is formulated and driven almost completely upon the concepts of appearance, aesthetics, and outward perception. The problem that can derive from this is the notion of ‘over-consumption’; a term that has come into real fruition in recent years. It is easier than ever before to purchase new items and clothes through a range of mediums; particularly through social media, that the amount of excess fashion we as a society are consuming has become a thoughtless cultural norm.
As of this Autumn, there are 3.03 billion active social media users across the world, with 91% of retail brands now using 2 of more social media channels (Brand Watch, 2017). The use of social media globally has grown exponentially especially in the last few years; Facebook and Instagram having the highest number of active users (Leverage New Age Media, 2017) with “three quarters of Facebook users and half of Instagram users” using the site daily (Greenwood et al., 2016). Going from a fleeting superficial craze, to a full-blown international obsession, social media has become an entire age; an omnipresent entity woven into our everyday – often referred to as the era of the selfie. Somehow, these addictive platforms have gone from being a space which people used to connect with old friends to causing an entire generation of society to feel completely reliant on them, with people using them to curate an idealistic view of their lives, under the impression that everything they post and share is constantly being looked at, judged and questioned; whilst simultaneously being ‘liked’ and amassed into “micro-communities of like-minded
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MICHELE ISHOLA – S00902077 – FSD503 – ASSESSMENT 2
WHAT IS THE IMPACT OF SOCIAL MEDIA ON CONSUMER CULTURE & HOW DOES IT CONTRIBUTE TO OVERCONSUMPTION?
friends and strangers who share a particular aesthetic affinity or niche sensibility” (Dhillon, 2015). Yet, at the same time, users dedicate a lot of time to social media, feeling compelled to post about every corner of their lives, updating the virtual world multiple times a week, or even multiple times a day. It seems hard to recall what people would do with all their time without social media; as “everywhere you go, someone around you is on their phone engaging with some sort of social platform” (Tan, 2017). The use of social media is wide and varied, in the role of the consumer, people increasingly expose themselves to digital and social media “as they search for information about products, purchase and consume them, and communicate with others about their experiences” (Stephen, 2016). Commonly known as word of mouth, this is “one of the most influential sources of marketplace information”, and with the added influx of the gross expansion of social media, word of mouth when online (often referred to as eWOM), can go viral (Mohr, 2013). In accordance with Jeff Goins, the author of The Art of Work, “there are two types of social media users: ‘sprinklers’ and ‘vacuums’.” Hence, the sprinklers of social media are the ones who share content relentlessly, and enjoy doing so. The vacuums of social media assimilate and absorb their content, and alike to “the food chain, one can’t exist without the other” (Tan, 2017). This system is what keeps social media alive; fuelling social influences but also enforcing somewhat pressure on young women to stylise their social media platform output. In the context of fashion consumption, Forrester Research and Exane BNP Paribas both collected data on the engagement that consumer brands receive across a range of social media sites and studying these user interactions, both came to the conclusion that there was one social media site that triumphed incredibly over the others. Exane BNP Paribas stated that, delivering 93 percent more consumer engagement than posts on Facebook or Twitter, was of course, Instagram (Sherman, 2015). Instagram is the social media platform where “big brands,
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WHAT IS THE IMPACT OF SOCIAL MEDIA ON CONSUMER CULTURE & HOW DOES IT CONTRIBUTE TO OVERCONSUMPTION?
emerging designers, tastemakers and fashion-conscious consumers participate in a dedicated discourse of stylised commerce” (Dhillon, 2015), between them posting their style and aesthetic details of their life; offering to others i.e. the vacuums of Instagram, an instantaneous view of emerging trends. A visual-based platform, Instagram “emerged as fashion’s social media platform of choice” with Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler stating Instagram to be the “perfect platform for innovative storytelling”. This is a thought shared by many across the industry, with Humberto Leon of Opening Ceremony and Kenzo saying “What's remarkable about Instagram is that it's a progressive platform able to capture these real moments, pushing the limits, allowing unique experiences to be shared across a broader channel, even outside of fashion.” (Sherman, 2015) The company’s head of fashion partnerships expressed, “Instagram has become the water cooler of the fashion community” (Sherman, 2015). Social media platforms have always been the “ultimate branding tool” (Entrepreneur, 2014) and a crucial marketing device for companies, but recently, these platforms have employed commerce too. In the past, “there was no easy way to really capture and immediately seal the deal, but we have been seeing that gap get smaller and smaller” (Uzialko, 2017). The market for shopping applications has expanded greatly in the past couple of years, with technological advances allowing the term ‘inspo-shopping’ to become a thing, enabling apps such as ‘LIKEtoKNOW.it’ and ‘Screenshop’ to exist, created solely to make your purchasing needs quicker and more efficient. Described as a “game changer” by Forbes in 2016, LIKEtoKNOW.it is a service that works particularly well for brands that use influencers on Instagram to promote their items. The app allows the affiliated influencers’ posts to be “shoppable” (Forbes, 2016) so that once you have signed up with them; any influencers (that work with LIKEtoKNOW.it) who’s posts you like and/or screenshot, the items they are wearing in that specific post, become directly available to buy in the app, with links to the
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MICHELE ISHOLA – S00902077 – FSD503 – ASSESSMENT 2
WHAT IS THE IMPACT OF SOCIAL MEDIA ON CONSUMER CULTURE & HOW DOES IT CONTRIBUTE TO OVERCONSUMPTION?
exact pieces also sent to your email for ease of shopping on a laptop or desktop. Free to download, this cuts out the middle man of Google, which most Instagram users would have to use to search for an item, if of course the influencer has tagged the brand of the clothing in her post. Another application that has been developed recently is called Screenshop, with advisor to the app being none other than the resident Instagram queen, Kim Kardashian. Describing the platform as “ground-breaking” and “so exciting for everyone” (Barsamian, 2017) Kardashian West has given a lot of publicity to the app that was developed by New York-based company Craze. Similar to LIKEtoKNOW.it, Screenshop works though screenshots, however it doesn’t just link you to the exact pieces. As the application isn’t affiliated to influencers, there is no restriction on what images you can put into the app to find information on. It provides you with not only the pieces, but similar ones, all in a range of prices and sizes to fit your individual needs, with 10 million products in its database (Miranda, 2017). It is the technological advancements like this that are changing and easing the way we as consumers shop and in turn, altering the fashion industry.
With global clothing sales having doubled in the years since 2000 (Suliman, 2017), the fashion industry is now worth over an approximate $2.4 trillion, and according to the McKinsey Global Fashion Index, has been sporting a 5.5% annual increase every year over the past decade (Amed et al, 2016). Fashion has always been a substantial element to the way some consumers characterise themselves; therefore, the industry as a whole is an extremely influential machine. Adding well over 800,000 jobs to the UK economy, the British fashion industry is worth over £26 billion, making it the largest creative industry in the United Kingdom (British Council, 2016). An aspect that both fashion and social media have in common, is the fact that ultimately, they are both forms of self-expression. Social media is literally an online expression of ourselves, whereas fashion is a direct visual representation of
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MICHELE ISHOLA – S00902077 – FSD503 – ASSESSMENT 2
WHAT IS THE IMPACT OF SOCIAL MEDIA ON CONSUMER CULTURE & HOW DOES IT CONTRIBUTE TO OVERCONSUMPTION?
ourselves, even if we don’t realise that it is. For some reason, in the past, when compared to other forms of self-expression such as writing or dancing; fashion was seen as superficial and sometimes even mindlessly frivolous (Li, 2015), but in modern society this is no longer the case. The rise of social media use since 2009 in the fashion industry has managed to facilitate the needs of the regular consumer when it comes to being able to access high fashion brands, with 39% of women claiming they are more likely to engage with brands via social media than through any other medium (Dhillon, 2015). Simultaneously, it has also managed to completely capsize the status quo of the entire industry, with phrases such as ‘going viral’ and ‘having good reach’ and talking about ‘engagement’ now being added to the common fashion marketer’s vernacular language. Now, consumers see Instagram as the hotbed for new fashion rather than on the runway, and social media influencers alongside fashion bloggers battle against editors in who has the most influence. With all of this right at their fingertips, consumers are now much more aware of the latest trends and how other people are dressing. This has opened up a whole new mentality today of ‘wear it once culture (Fateh, 2017), in which people don’t want to be seen wearing the same clothes repeatedly on social media. A data study following a survey taken of UK women states that the average piece of clothing in their wardrobe is worn seven times, with 33% of women consider a piece of clothing ‘old’ and ‘outdated’ after three wears. The report continued that 1 in 7 women said that social media sites such as Facebook, Twitter and Instagram were big influences over this ‘wear it once culture’ stating that taking photos, or being ‘tagged’, in the same outfit on two different occasions was essentially a fashion faux pas, and that it caused them to feel embarrassed and/or uncomfortable. (Morgan, 2015). Camille from the fashion blog Camille Over the Rainbow said in her interview with The Independent, that she noticed the initial shift in this approach when people first started posting pictures on Facebook. “From the moment that people started uploading pictures of themselves
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WHAT IS THE IMPACT OF SOCIAL MEDIA ON CONSUMER CULTURE & HOW DOES IT CONTRIBUTE TO OVERCONSUMPTION?
or having people tag pictures of them, they started to pay more attention. There is a trend of people thinking ‘I don’t want to wear this, because I’ve already been seen in that” (Dhillon, 2015). This effect can be seen with a lot of young women today, as the social media that is engaged with is primarily based upon “newness and nowness” and so there is the pressure of young people having to mix and match their wardrobes to cope in the Instagram era of ‘overexposure’. An intriguing result of this behaviour however, is that the sales of mixable garments such as skirts, tops and accessories, has all increased substantially and is having an intense effect on the industry.
Originally, the keeping up with trends was seen as somewhat of a luxury, if you were able to afford to continue buying new clothing then you would, but the average consumer was spending more money on good quality clothing and buying them less often. This was possible because before this social media era, your wardrobe was not as exposed as it is today; people weren’t as aware of what everyone was wearing at all times. In the past, millennial consumers were able to carry the same bag or wear the same jacket for multiple days in a row and only the people they saw would know they were wearing it, whereas today, everything is recorded and shared on social media platforms such as Instagram and especially for the younger millennials and ‘Generation Z’, Snapchat. With the use of these platforms, consumers are able to see both friends and strangers’ posts regarding clothing, leaving the opportunity for them to be impressed upon, with consumer studies showing that 81% of people said that they are influenced by what their friends post on Instagram and 85% of people said that they are influenced by what celebrities post and what brands and companies they endorse (Tan, 2017). The ‘wear it once culture’ encourages this mentality amongst young people to not ‘outfit repeat’, which for most, is not financially possible especially when regarding good quality clothing. The combination of this mentality and the fact that society is now hyper-
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MICHELE ISHOLA – S00902077 – FSD503 – ASSESSMENT 2
WHAT IS THE IMPACT OF SOCIAL MEDIA ON CONSUMER CULTURE & HOW DOES IT CONTRIBUTE TO OVERCONSUMPTION?
aware of trends through social media, opened up the door for an industry evolution into ‘fast fashion’. The fast fashion industry is based around on-trend clothing that are aesthetically similar or have some sort of resemblance to high designer trends, at a miniscule fraction of the price. Brands who are a part of this industry keep their prices low by outsourcing a lot of their production, jumping through global guideline and policy loopholes, streamlining their supply chain and taking advantage of the short time frame in which their whole process takes place, for issues to not be raised (Singh, 2017). Retailers adopting this approach are doing so because consumers now look to social media to find inspiration for their next look instantaneously (Tan, 2017). Well-known companies that are implementing this technique of fast fashion are H&M, Zara and Forever 21. To put the timeframe into context, the clothing brand Zara can go from drawing up initial new designs based on a trend, to having finished garments in their 2213 stores that are spread over 93 different countries in just two weeks. The efficiency with which these brands are mass-producing clothing and getting it out on to the shop floor, is exceptionally beneficial for them economically. (Singh, 2017). The main reason fast fashion culture has been able to thrive the way it has in our society is that young consumers presently have an altered perception of their possessions. In their eyes, everything they own is disposable and easily re-attained, so the concept of buying an item of clothing, using it a couple of times, throwing it away and getting a new one isn’t terribly barbaric. Coupled with the fact that these budget-conscious fast fashion brands no longer have as much as a stigma as they used to, means that sales in fast fashion clothing are raising higher and higher. This detachment of stigma mainly comes from the association with celebrities that a lot of these brands have come to use as an effective marketing strategy. Fast fashion company Boohoo reported that their sales profits doubled after endorsing celebrities to advertise and promote their clothing on Instagram to a target market
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MICHELE ISHOLA – S00902077 – FSD503 – ASSESSMENT 2
WHAT IS THE IMPACT OF SOCIAL MEDIA ON CONSUMER CULTURE & HOW DOES IT CONTRIBUTE TO OVERCONSUMPTION?
of 16-24-year-olds, highlighting the fact that social media has substantial direct impact on a company’s revenue (Tan, 2017). The variance of celebrities that have done collaborations with fast fashion brands is large, most recently figures such as Beyoncé and Pharrell Williams have done collaborations with H&M and Uniqlo respectively. This makes it had for a consumer to view these brands in a negative way, when famous figures willingly align themselves with the company, leaving the general opinion amongst consumers that “fast fashion companies are cool now” (Singh, 2017). Regularly seeing companies aligned with celebrities on social media, psychologically gets consumers associating the two entities, and they do not think of whether it is beneficial for them to actually buy into these brands, as celebrities’ “trendsetting power is huge among shoppers” (Visaur Life, 2011). All of this mindless purchasing is what leads to over-consumption.
The fast fashion industry making clothing so ludicrously affordable is causing an excess of consumption of unsustainable garments, causing what is now a global phenomenon. Clothing of this nature is so readily available and affordable, and the pathways in which to attain them are of such ease to consumers that the problem of over-consuming has only been exacerbated by the influence of social media. A survey from the beginning of 2017 states that over half of all consumers in Europe and Asia are buying more clothes that what they need (Fashionating World, 2017) and according to ‘Plenitude: The New Economics of True Wealth’, Americans today buy twice as many items of clothing as they did 20 years ago (Chung, 2016). Purchasing clothing that aren’t needed without a second thought purely for superficial purposes has become second nature to a large portion of society, making over-consumption a “cultural norm” (Lo, 2017) that many do not realise they are even participating in, with “an estimated 400 billion square metres of textiles…[being]…produced annually” (Chung, 2016).
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MICHELE ISHOLA – S00902077 – FSD503 – ASSESSMENT 2
WHAT IS THE IMPACT OF SOCIAL MEDIA ON CONSUMER CULTURE & HOW DOES IT CONTRIBUTE TO OVERCONSUMPTION?
When regarding the psychology behind over-consumption, it is noted by industry professionals in the Greenpeace Survey of 2017, that “Consumers are no longer shopping because they need something”, which has been noticed across the world in developed countries that the want for excess is greater than ever before. The survey continues, “On the contrary: younger people in particular shop despite already having too much, longing for fulfilment and encouraged by social media and the ease of online shopping” (Wahnbaeck and Roloff, 2017). The development of e-commerce and social media in recent years has augmented the sales of fast fashion, with the US’s growth rate of 2016-2017 estimated at 17.2%, whilst 72% of Chinese participants in the survey said they were “triggered to purchase while browsing social media” (Fibre2Fashion, 2017) and the survey report stating that “Facebook and Instagram followers spend more money (on average 128,20 Euros per month) and time on clothes shopping” (Wahnbaeck and Roloff, 2017). A lot of research has gone into the reasons for why consumers over-purchase, with the main sources being “emotional and social”; that people use shopping as a “way to kill time, relieve stress and avoid boredom” and as a way to “increase our self-worth, confidence and recognition” (Lo, 2017), as the Greenpeace survey aligns the afterfeeling of compulsive shopping as being alike to a “hangover” stating that, in contrast to what is widely reported, “shopping and owning more clothes does not make people happy” (Wahnbaeck and Roloff, 2017). Over-consumption also has dire environmental consequences and incredibly distressing ethical ramifications. The carbon footprint of the clothing industry, especially in recent years, is extensive. Described as the “second largest polluter in the world, after the oil industry” by the representatives of Eileen Fischer, the fashion industry causes a lot of environmental issues due to the amount of pollutants and the considerable number of natural resources that are used all the way through the supply chain, from production to delivery. The afterlife of clothing also greatly affects the planet, with “80 billion pieces of clothing…produced worldwide, and 10
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WHAT IS THE IMPACT OF SOCIAL MEDIA ON CONSUMER CULTURE & HOW DOES IT CONTRIBUTE TO OVERCONSUMPTION?
after its short lifespan, 3 out of 4 garments will end up in landfills or to be incinerated” (Chung, 2016). Ethically, the ramifications can be catastrophic when it comes to the quality of life of the people who make the clothing that majority of society wears; this “phenomenon is maintained by the workforce in countries, such as Bangladesh, Vietnam or India. Among the exploited workers are also children, according to a report made by International Labour Organization (ILO).” (EVO News, 2014). The children that are used by these companies are often made to work as their small hands are useful for details in clothing, such as beading, but also to do menial tasks, like getting cotton. “Forced and child labour is alarmingly common in the cotton industry. Sometimes rural poverty means children must work long hours to support their families.” Often in these cases, the entire family are working in industries where they are all exploited, just in order to feed themselves and each other. “Children as young as five years old can be recruited and sometimes forced to work in cotton fields…for little or no pay. In many cases, this is at the expense of their education.” The World Vision Foundation speak about these issues and it is agonising for consumers to come to terms with the place in which their clothing was produced just for themselves to be wearing it. “[The children] may endure terrible conditions including exposure to hazardous pesticides, physical and sexual abuse and long hours. Children can be left exhausted and in poor health after weeks of gruelling labour” (EVO News, 2014).
The impact social media has had on modern day consumer culture is evident, and its encouragement of the fast fashion industry fuels the issue of over-consumption. “Social media has become the direct path into online shopping baskets” (Tan, 2017), and it is undeniable the intense influence people have over others on social media platforms. 11
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WHAT IS THE IMPACT OF SOCIAL MEDIA ON CONSUMER CULTURE & HOW DOES IT CONTRIBUTE TO OVERCONSUMPTION?
The introduction of fast fashion “opened doors for people who want to replicate looks of others, but who don’t have the means to purchase high-end items” (Tan, 2017). However, this was always a want and not a need. The over-consuming nature of the western world has huge environmental and ethical ramifications, especially on the very people in the workforce who are making it all happen. Formulated on the notions surrounding aesthetics and outward perception, the fashion industry is a colossal, trillion-dollar business based on consumerism. Technological advancements have aided the growth of social media and ecommerce, which has recently bound together to create s-commerce. Fuelling the clothing industry, social media is a driving force that has changed the way we consume products and the fundamental way in which we regard possessions, the impact of which has led to escalating mindless over-consumption all across the world.
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BIBLIOGRAPHY Annie Jin, S. (2012). The potential of social media for luxury brand management. Marketing Intelligence & Planning, 30(7), pp.687-699. Bassi, B. (2012). How Social Media and Mobile Devices Affect Consumer Behavior. [online] Commonplaces.com. Available at: http://www.commonplaces.com/blog/how-socialmedia-and-mobile-devices-affect-consumer-behavior/ [Accessed 12 Dec. 2017]. Bassi, B. (2012). How Social Media and Mobile Devices Affect Consumer Behavior. [online] Commonplaces.com. Available at: http://www.commonplaces.com/blog/how-socialmedia-and-mobile-devices-affect-consumer-behavior/ [Accessed 11 Dec. 2017].
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WHAT IS THE IMPACT OF SOCIAL MEDIA ON CONSUMER CULTURE & HOW DOES IT CONTRIBUTE TO OVERCONSUMPTION?
Chen, Y., Chen, H. and Xu, L. (2016). Social Media and eBusiness: Cultural Impacts on the Influence Process in Consumer Communities. IOP Conference Series: Materials Science and Engineering, 142, p.012134. Godey, B., Manthiou, A., Pederzoli, D., Rokka, J., Aiello, G., Donvito, R. and Singh, R. (2016). Social media marketing efforts of luxury brands: Influence on brand equity and consumer behavior. Journal of Business Research, 69(12), pp.5833-5841. Hudson, S., Huang, L., Roth, M. and Madden, T. (2016). The influence of social media interactions on consumer–brand relationships: A three-country study of brand perceptions and marketing behaviors. International Journal of Research in Marketing, 33(1), pp.27-41. Maschio, T. (2016). Culture, desire and consumer culture in America in the new age of social media. Qualitative Market Research: An International Journal, 19(4), pp.416-425.
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