5 minute read
CHEF’S TABLE
SIMPLE & SEASONAL
PIZZERIA FAULISI SHOWCASES LOCAL PRODUCE AND EXPERIMENTATION
BY KATIE JANSEN PHOTOS BY MASH PHOTOGRAPHY
After meeting in culinary school in Pittsburgh and pursuing impressive culinary careers that brought them up and down the East Coast—and back again—Zach and Amber Faulisi put down roots in Cary. The husband and wife team opened their eponymous pizza shop, Pizzeria Faulisi, at 215 E. Chatham Street in early 2017.
The couple were no strangers to the area. They had lived in both Raleigh and Durham before, when Zach helped open Bull City Burger and Brewery in Durham and Amber served as sous chef for Raleigh’s Vivace. They then traveled as far south as Miami and as far north as New York for various opportunities in the industry.
Amber says both she and Zach value the varied experience they accumulated during those years of working different jobs. But once they had their son Dominic, they knew they wanted to settle down. They returned to the Triangle, where Zach got a job as chef de cuisine at The Durham Hotel. In this role he learned about local purveyors, including bakeries like Boulted Bread, from which Pizzeria Faulisi now sources freshly milled flou, and Vera Luce Farm, where the pizzeria buys much of its produce.
“Our goal was always to own our own restaurant, and this was a great time to research and see where we’d be,” Amber says. “When we started looking at spaces, the space we’re in now was just a gravel lot. While it was sometimes difficult to envision how it woul look from a blank slate, it was also a great opportunity because we got to design the whole thing ourselves.”
ELEMENTS THAT ELEVATE
Pizzeria Faulisi’s space is relatively small, with 42 seats and one wood-burning pizza oven, which can cook a pizza in a minute and imparts most of the pizzeria’s offerings with char, or—as the Faulisis put it—flavo.
Pizzeria Faulisi serves classic pies in both red and white varieties, such as the margherita or a “Bianco e Verde” pie with mozzarella, arugula, Parmesan cheese and lemon. The menu also includes unique flavo combinations; for example, the “Red White Blue” pizza is topped with sour cherries, chilis, mozzarella and blue cheese.
Crowd favorite antipasti offerings include roasted Calabrian carrots, which are fied in the wood stove and served with roasted red onion, parsley and farro. In addition, the menu often showcases seasonal specials. One weekend fresh figs fom the farmer’s market inspired the creation of La Barca, a boatshaped piece of dough filled with figs, ricott prosciutto, thyme and locally-made Vesta hot honey drizzle.
“Our whole philosophy is to focus on things that are simple, fresh and not too complicated,” Amber says. “For most of our antipasti dishes, we add one or two elements to elevate it, but mostly keep it simple.”
FROM POP-UP TO PERMANENCE
Although the Faulisis are no longer moving every year, that hasn’t stopped them from trying new things. Their second restaurant, Big Dom’s Bagel Shop (named after son Dominic, now 6), began with an experiment. Zach started trying to cook bagels and “b’donuts” (a baked doughnut for which the shop is now well known) in the pizza oven over the weekends. They hosted a handful of Sunday morning pop-ups—and sold out every time.
The opportunity to turn the experiment into a full-fledged estaurant came sooner than the Faulisis expected. When the building that formerly housed Little Caesar’s became available, the landlord allowed Zach to try his bagel recipe in that building’s conveyor belt oven. It worked—and they signed a lease.
ADAPTING AND CONNECTING
Now working owners with two restaurants and a son who attended virtual kindergarten throughout 2020 and 2021, the Faulisis accomplish everything with a combination of teamwork and careful juggling. Zach does morning prep at the bagel shop while Amber helps Dominic with school, and Amber makes sure she’s at the pizzeria to oversee operations by noon.
Just as they’ve adapted to a busy schedule and lifestyle, the Faulisis were also quick to respond to the COVID-19 pandemic. When restaurants were mandated to close for indoor dining, they hired a woodworker to create a rolling cart that blocks the door and added a Plexiglass pickup window. Thanks to this solution, Pizzeria Faulisi has been able to stay open for takeout throughout the pandemic.
Another contributor to the pizzeria’s recent success is the Faulisis’ decision to hire a sous chef. Although both Amber and Zach can still be found doing all the tasks running a restaurant requires—from rolling bagels to washing dishes—having help has enabled them to step away from the pizza oven more often so they can speak to their guests. “We have regulars who come back week after week, and now we’ve been able to meet them and learn more about them,” Amber says. “Our goal was always to have a communitydriven restaurant, and I think we’ve been successful in that.”
WOOD-FIRED CAULIFLOWER CAESAR Ingredients
1 head of cauliflowe
Caesar dressing
Panko breadcrumbs, toasted
Arugula or Italian parsley leaves
Directions
Bring a pot of water (heavily seasoned with salt) to a boil. Cut and wash the cauliflowe. Once the water boils, add the cauliflower and cook for 7 minutes Remove the cauliflower with tongs an lay it on a paper towel to dry for a few minutes.
Set your oven broiler on high. Drizzle olive oil, salt and pepper on the head of the cauliflowe. Place under a broiler for 4–5 minutes, or until it gets char-like and is al dente.
Place cauliflower on a plte. Drizzle with Caesar dressing (see the recipe that follows) and toasted panko breadcrumbs. Garnish with a few leaves of arugula or Italian parsley. CAESAR DRESSING (yields 1 quart)
Ingredients
4 egg yolks 6 garlic cloves ¾ quart of grapeseed oil ¼ cup of olive oil ¼ cup of white distilled vinegar 10 anchovies ½ cup of fresh lemon juice
Salt and pepper to taste
Directions
Mix together and chill.
