CHEF'S TABLE

Irregardless Cafe A RALEIGH ICON PUSHES THROUGH THE PANDEMIC

BY ELLIOT ACOSTA PHOTOS BY MASH PHOTOGRAPHY

Head Chef Juan Carlos adds mango salsa to the grilled Mahi Mahi.

Irregardless—it’s a word that triggers spellcheck errors and makes English teachers cringe. In downtown Raleigh, however, “irregardless” represents a long-standing Raleigh institution. After providing the community with memories and meals for the last four decades, Irregardless Cafe has become a true Raleigh icon. For 46 years, this wellestablished eatery has built a reputation on its plant-forward menu, live music and spirit, all of which sets it apart from the rest of the Triangle dining scene.

When Durham native Arthur Gordon opened Irregardless Cafe in 1975, he bucked current trends by offering a strictly vegetarian menu. His focus on fresh, seasonal produce remains at the heart of the cafe’s menu, even decades later. Irregardless Cafe’s ability to shine a spotlight on fresh produce is exemplified b its trademark dish, the spanakopita—an adaptation of the classic Greek dish that combines spinach, feta and sauteed onions wrapped in phyllo dough. Served since the restaurant first opened its doors, th spanakopita remains the cafe’s most popular entree. Other dishes, like the vegan calamari, which is made from king oyster mushrooms, delight diners across the dietary spectrum.

Irregardless Cafe introduced animal proteins in the 1970s when it added seafood to the menu. The restaurant continued to add different meats as the years continued, but always ensured that produce remained the focus of each dish. The grilled mahi mahi with crispy polenta served on top of local kale and topped with mango salsa serves as a crowd-pleasing example.

NEW ERA

After operating Irregardless Cafe for almost five decades, Godon passed the reins of the iconic eatery over to Raleigh native and Trophy Brewing co-owner David Meeker. Meeker brought on Lee Robinson to co-own and guide the restaurant toward serving the next generation. A seasoned professional in the Raleigh restaurant scene, Robinson is known for running notable restaurants such as The Pit and Players Retreat. He cherishes his memories of dining at Irregardless Cafe.

‘[Irregardless] is an icon,” Robinson says. “I’ve been coming here since I was in college, and I live in the neighborhood. When the opportunity arose, I didn’t hesitate [to purchase Irregardless Cafe]. Truly rewarding to be a part of such a great place.”

Although Robinson has had to make difficultdecisions due to the pandemic, he is committed to maintaining the same spirit Irregardless Cafe has possessed for the last 40-plus years. “I bought the place two months before COVID hit, so I’ve changed a lot due to necessity,” he says. “Seeing a 90% drop in sales overnight meant having to make a lot of tough decisions about our menu offerings. The menu is now about half the size it once was. But we tripled our outdoor dining space, and slapped a fresh coat of paint on the place.”

SOUNDTRACK FOR SUCCESS

Sunday brunch at Irregardless Cafe has captured the hearts of diners for decades. The restaurant’s classic brunch fare, including Belgian waffles and mimosas with a backdrop of live jazz—has proven to be a winning combination for the cafe. The reason for the brunch’s success is simple, Robinson says. “It’s the combination of offering great food for all diets, live music and being the first place in town to ofer brunch,” he says. “It’s a tradition.”

Since its inception, live music has provided a soundtrack to Irregardless Cafe’s dining experience. The restaurant opened its stage to more than 200 musical acts, spanning across genres ranging from jazz and Latin, to soul and bluegrass. Such notable international acts as Tony Williamson and Lucinda Williams have graced the cafe’s stage.

Just as the pandemic affected how the restaurant served diners, it also caused a change to—but not elimination of—its live music performances. “We had to do away with the stage to help with distancing, but we’re still doing live music most nights, and plan to start having performances every night once distancing is no longer a thing.”

CHANGING LANDSCAPE

After 46 years, Irregardless Cafe has slowly become surrounded by Raleigh’s rapid rush for redevelopment. Older buildings have been torn down and replaced by new construction. Despite the changing landscape, Lee feels confident abou Irregardless Cafe’s future. “I can guarantee [Irregardless] won’t be redeveloped any time in the foreseeable future,” he says. “I came here to keep the place going for the next 10 years, and I see no need to change that plan now.”

As Raleigh’s population continues to grow and diversify, so do Irregardless Cafe’s diners. How does the restaurant satisfy its evolving clientele and maintain its iconic status during the next decade? Robinson believes the path is simple: “By sticking to the basics,” he says. “Keep the food great, be willing to change with the times and always listen to the guest.”

Irregardless Cafe is open for dinner weeknights, and for brunch and dinner during weekends. Learn more at irregardless.com.

GRILLED MAHI MAHI

WITH A CRISPY POLENTA CAKE

(Served on top of local kale and topped with mango salsa) Outer Banks mahi mahi should be grilled to 137 degrees.

Polenta Cake

(Serves 6)

Ingredients

2 tablespoons of butter 1 teaspoon of chopped garlic 1 teaspoon of minced shallots 4 cups of water 1 cup of polenta

Directions

In a large saucepan, add the butter, garlic and shallots. Stir until the shallots are cooked through. Add water and bring the mixture to a boil. Add the polenta and stir for 7 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste. Put the polenta on a baking sheet, cover it and place it in the refrigerator. Leave it for two hours, until firm Cut a piece of polenta (in the size of your choosing) and place it on a pan or grill sprayed with nonstick cooking spray. Cook both sides until golden brown.

Kale

Ingredients

1 cup of kale 1 tablespoon of lemon juice 1 teaspoon of olive oil

Directions

Sauté the kale at medium heat with 1 tablespoon of lemon juice and 1 teaspoon of olive oil.

Mango Salsa

(Serves 6)

Ingredients

2 cups of fresh mango, diced 1 lime ½ cup of cilantro 3 tablespoons of chopped red onion, finely dice ¼ cup of chopped red pepper 1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and chopped 1 tablespoon of olive oil Salt and pepper to taste

Directions

Mix all ingredients together in a bowl. Refrigerate the mixture for at least 1 hour before serving.