Victoria's Secret Marketing Report by mihaalx

Sheffield Hallam University [Victoriaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Secret Marketing Report] By [Maria-Mihaela Alexandrescu] BA (Hons.) Fashion Management and Communication

The candidate confirms that the work submitted is their own and that appropriate credit has been given where reference has been made to the work of others. [ MARCH 2019 ] Word count: 3194

CONTENTS

1. Executive Summary........................................1 2. Introduction................................................2 3. Macro-Economic Analysis.....................3 3.1 PESTEL..................................................................5 4. Brand Market Position...........................6 4.1 Swot analysis..................................................8 5. Competitors...................................................11 5.1 Brand positioning map..........................12 5.2 Current Brand Market Position and Competitors moodboard.................13 5.3 Ann summers.................................................15 5.4 Boux avenue...................................................17 5.5 Competitive matrix...................................19 6. Consumer Demographics......................21 6.1 Current Consumer Demographics moodboard........................................................23 7. Product Selection....................................25 7.1 Product lifecycle.....................................26 8. Social Media and Influencer Marketing...........................................................27 8.1 Current Social Media/Influencer Marketing/Marketing Mix moodboard........................................................29 9. Marketing Mix (4 Pâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s)...............................33 10. Conclusion..................................................35 11. Proposed Strategy....................................37 11.1 Proposed Social Media/ Influencer Marketing/Marketing Mix moodboard.........................................................37 11.2 Female empowerment.............................39 11.3 New technologies..................................43 11.4 Brand collaborations.........................45 12. Moodboards.................................................49 12.1 Proposed Brand Market Position and Competitors moodboard.................51 12.2 Proposed Consumer Demographics moodboard.........................................................53 13. Bibliography.................................................55 13.1 Figures............................................................57 14. Appendix..........................................................59 14.1 FocuS group interviews......................59 14.2 Customer interviews.............................61 14.3 Brand objective model.......................63 14.4 Brand identity prism...........................64 14.5 Online survey............................................65

executive summary This brand marketing report aims to evaluate the current market position of Victoria’s Secret on today’s competitive UK fashion scene putting into effect both primary and secondary research. Using Micro-(SWOT) and MacroEconomic (PESTLE) Factor Analysis, as well as a series of brand models, it will reveal the brand’s identity, mission, ongoing situation and overall performance. The report will also illustrate their target customer and will investigate current consumer and market trends that influence the decision-making process of an increasingly fashion-conscious and selective customer. Additionally, the report will include an analysis of the main competitors, specifically social media strategies and advertisement methods compared to Victoria’s Secret. The lack of diversity in lingerie campaigns and advertisements caused a rise in popularity of the bodypositive movement among both brands and consumers. As a result of this demand for more inclusivity the face of the lingerie market is slowly seeing some changes in the communication methods used. After better understanding the main characteristics, values and foundations that form the brand’s culture and personality, an in-depth analysis of their target customer, competitors evaluation and a thorough understanding into the current demands and changes in the fashion industry, a series of recommendations will be made in order to re-establish the once considered the most successful lingerie brand.

introduction Victoria’s Secret is an iconic, world-renowned US women’s lingerie brand, best known for their supermodels featured as “angels” and their annual fashion show known as “the sexiest night on television”. The brand was launched in 1977 by Roy Raymond and in 1982 Leslie Wexner, founder of L Brands, bought the business. Shifting the marketing focus from men to women, while staying true to the original Victorian store design (Shannon, 2018), was the starting point of turning VS into a billion dollar company. Although VS remains one of the go-to shopping destination for sexy lingerie, changing consumer taste and backlash triggered by a lack of diversity, has caused the brand to face struggles. In the quarter that ended Nov. 3, the brand communicated another 2% decline in comparable sales and a 6% tumble at its brick-and-mortar stores (Cheng, 2018).

macro-economic analysis As for January 2019, the UK currently has a stable economy, with an employment rate estimated at 75.8%, 0.5% higher than the year before, and the highest since 1971, while the unemployment rate is estimated at 4.0% (Office for national statistics). Moreover, the inflation rate was around 2.51% in 2018 and is estimated to decrease in 2019 to 2.17% (Statista, 2019). Based on these statistics the average spending per UK inhabitant is currently steady and should not affect VS as a business. Using PESTEL analysis the report will uncover other macro-economic factors that affect or might impact the brand in the future.

Inflation rate Source: Statista 2019

brand market position Alongside VS, the parent company (Limited Brand LTD) also owns PINK and Bath & Body Works. Analysing the marketing strategies and identity revealed that their products are meant to convey and implicitly sell an “aspirational lifestyle” (lb.com). They also state that their products “invite customers into a whole new world of beauty and style” (lb.com). In order to define VS’s identity, understanding its personality, brand essence and values is crucial. The 4 main values of L Brands as stated on the official website are: “The customer rules, Passion leads to success, Inclusion makes us stronger, It matters how we play the game”. “Sexy.Iconic.Powerful” is how L Brands describe VS. This identity has been continuously emphasized through their marketing and campaigns. Everything they do must be consistently associated with sexiness and femininity. They also position themselves as a place where customers can find luxurious, yet affordable products. To support this positioning, they use premium store design, customer services and keep prices consistently high, only using sales during certain periods like the semi-annual sales. “We touch lives with quality products, memorable experiences and exceptional service” (lb.com). Consistent branding is one of the company’s key strategies. Using the same colour-scheme, Victorian influences for their stores, garment patterns, models and style they managed to create strong visual communication.

competitors The UK lingerie market is estimated at ÂŁ 4,594 m in 2019 and reports show it might reach ÂŁ 5,470 in 2023 (Mintel, 2018). Currently, underwear shopping destinations are highly fragmented and non-specialists like clothing retailers and supermarkets dominate almost half of the market, namely 47% (with M&S alone holding around 20%) and 16% respectively, while lingerie specialists like VS represent only 11% of the market (Mintel, 2018). Advertising methods are slowly shifting towards digital instead of conventional, as younger consumers spend more and more time online and brands are trying to further engage with these audiences. Based on Statista and Mintel statistics, visual communication, store layout, products and positioning the closest competitors of VS on the UK lingerie market today are Boux Avenue (BA) and Ann Summers (AS).

online only retailers 10%

lingerie specialists 11%

M&S 20%

department stores 12%

supermarkets 16%

Source: Mintel 2018

other 4%

clothing retailers 27%

Current Brand Market Position and Competitors moodboard

British multinational retailer AS has been specialising in adult toys and lingerie since 1972 and is a well-known go-to destination for buying sexy lingerie. The brand positions itself as the ultimate place to find provocative and modern lingerie, dresses and costumes for her, sex toys and everything in between. They stand for “sexual liberation, experimentation and mindblowing satisfaction” (annsummers.com). Another key-characteristic is being “synonymous with female empowerment” (annsummers.com). In comparison to VS, their actions are correlated with their message, namely they are more inclusive and use diverse models. A Mintel report revealed that 30% of the responders (1,499 internet users aged 16+) strongly agreed and 43% simply agreed with the statement: “campaigns should feature models that represent the average person” (Mintel, 2018). Such opinions are slowly shaping the lingerie market as a result of the demand for a more body-positive centred advertisement. Using a powerful statement and then complying with it creates strong brand identity, allowing them to hold a welldefined position in the mind of consumers.

“CAMPAIGNS SHOULD FEATURE MODELS THAT REPRESENT THE AVERAGE PERSON” STRONGLY DISAGREE 1% DISAGREE 3%

STRONGLY AGREE 30%

NEITHER AGREE OR DISAGREE 23%

Their latest campaigns “Turn up the Heat this Christmas” and “Our passion is you” feature daring and provocative lingerie modelled by both curvy and slim-build girls, aiming to encourage women to embrace themselves, while discovering their sexuality. In comparison to VS who has a 1,719,359 reach, AS only has 3,942 YouTube subscribers. Their videos feature campaigns, makeup tutorials, behind the scenes and guides about lingerie and adult toys. While VS only feature the “Angels” in their campaigns and in most of their YT videos, AS uses models, make-up artists, vloggers or influencers that might appeal to their customers. Having different video-categories and featuring diverse protagonists highlights that they do not have a welldefined strategy.

AGREE 43% Source: Mintel 2018

The brand identity is well coordinated with their high street and digital presence by using similar attitudes and a constant colour scheme, mainly black and red. “2011 Stores were re-designed to the current ‘black concept’ style, which provides an elegant, glossy, sexy destination for our customers” (annsummers.com).

Part of the Theo Paphitis Retail Group, BA is a UK based chain of lingerie stores that first opened its doors in 2011, in Glasgow. They describe themselves as the “ultimate shopping destination, from sexy and sultry lingerie sets to must-have everyday essentials”, including swimwear and nightwear apparel (bouxavenue.com). As the founder stated in an interview with blogger Lucia Grace, the brand caters to a broad range of customers: “We have to have a wide, broad appeal, not age driven, mental state driven. You could be sixteen or sixty it’s about how you feel “(Grace, 2012). Their selling point is that their products aim to make any woman feel stylish, confident and supported at affordable prices. Trying to make everyone feel welcomed at BA, the brand offers bra sizes ranging from 28-40, A-G cup and nightwear in sizes 6-18. Their in-store customer services are similar to those of VS: bra fitting experts (“personalised concierge service with expert bra fittings” bouxavenue.com), gift-wrapping and lingerie displayed in drawers according to size. In terms of online presence, BA has the smallest YouTube reach, namely 1,079 subscribers, probably because of a low posting frequency rate, with videos promoting their campaigns or collaborations. Their latest #BouxEverAfter Christmas campaign uses a ‘life in pink’ theme to bring the feminine Boux universe to life with their new collection. In contrast to their YouTube channel, they are more active on Instagram, posting multiple times a day and using giveaways as a strategy to increase their following and engage audiences. The visuals used encompass the brand’s identity and attitude, as their brand ambassadors are real women instead of supermodels, emphasizing a body-inclusive approach. The store design is also inspired by a Victorian boudoir, but in contrast to VS shops, they added a contemporary stylish twist with a soft minimalist feel and uses mainly white instead of black, brightening and widening up the store space.

consumer demographics

men shopping for partners

Brand extension PINK markets to college girls instead, bringing the same It girl lifestyle adapted to a younger consumer.

young adults (18-29)

Using observation methods, girls as young as 13 have been spotted shopping the brand. Nowadays, it is commonplace for consumers to use technology daily and young girls are always in-touch with trends, sales and events advertised online. They not only desire to achieve that coveted lifestyle they see on Instagram, they also have the means to fulfil their fashion cravings. A recent CondĂŠ Nast and Goldman Sachs report showed that VS â&#x20AC;&#x153;was the most loved brand among Millennial and Gen Z women it surveyed (aged 13-34 years).â&#x20AC;? (Danzinger, 2018)

Mature women (30 plus)

In the UK and other westernised societies, VS has 3 target demographics: mature women (30+), young adults (18-29), and men who shop for their partners. Still, they are selling an attitude instead of products aimed at a particular demographic. This is a psychographic segmentation. Customers resonate with the lifestyle portrayed, regardless of age. Girls and women dream to live like a VS model and buying from VS allows a piece of that aspirational lifestyle into their lives.

Current Consumer Demographics moodboard

product selection “Brand equity provides value for the firm by enhancing the efficiency and effectiveness of marketing programs “(Jin & Cedrola, 2017) VS creates strong brand equity by offering a luxurious shopping experience through store design, services like expert bra-fitting and lifestyle portrayed. These elements allow VS to place their merchandise in the affordable luxury category. Their product line slightly changed over the years. In 2016, the brand stopped selling clothes, some accessories, shoes and swimwear in order to focus on their core businesses: Victoria’s Secret Lingerie, Pink, and Victoria’s Secret Beauty. Additionally, the brand announced only recently (2019, Feb 6) a partnership with high-end Parisian lingerie brand Livy to sell its lingerie online and at two flagship store locations (New York and London). Their products can range from $70 to $350 (Hanbury, 2019). Although this strategy of creating the perfect fantasy has been highly successful, the brand is slowly losing sympathy and loyalty as many women feel like “the VS paradise is actually a world of exclusivity where the idea of female beauty and sexiness is narrow: white, slim and 6ft tall. “(Focus Group participant, 2019)

product Life cycle Methods like their annual fashion show clearly position VS in the minds of consumers and create a unique brand identity their customers resonate with. After the 80s, western culture praised the supermodel look and VS took advantage of it to slowly build their brand image. Hence, successful supermodels have been associated with VS for more than two decades now. Their products thrived because of their models’ lifestyle. One could say that VS products are the same quality as any competitor’s, but their distinctive “supermodel” marketing separates them from other brands. The rise of VS is highly correlated with the average consumer’s attitude towards female beauty. If a few years ago everyone would have said that ultimate beauty translates as Gisele Bündchen, now many people’s answer would be Slick Woods. Because society’s beauty standards are changing and the trend of making diversity conventional in fashion is gaining spotlight, the VS marketing formula is slowly entering the decline phase of a once utterly successful product.

social media and influencer marketing For many years VS used the “supermodel” recipe to mass market products by using people’s natural instinct to compare themselves with others considered superior. A VS model is the epitome of success in today’s society: perfect body, social status, financial means, happy family. Studies show that women and in particular young females are more prone to be impacted by the media, more likely to base their self-worth on appearance and “are more at risk for negative effects (Fallon & Rozin, 1985, cited in Strahan, Lafrance, Wilson, Ethier, Spencer, 2007). Using prominent figures in the cyber-world is a VS staple marketing strategy. Not only do customers associate the brand with their favourite supermodels, but these girls also create a lot of buzz online before, during and after the annual show. In 2018, the lingerie giant dressed the Kardashian-Jenner sisters for Halloween, which helped increase their following and most certainly advertised the upcoming fashion show. Digital tools have become a crucial marketing instrument today and VS are present on all highly used social media platforms. Overall, the engagement does not match their huge following and the content they post is similar across different platforms. Although Millennials and Gen Zedders have different taste in terms of online platforms, Youtube is the safest social network for brands that want to market to both generations, as 80% Millennials and 85% Generation Z consumers use it (Van Elven, 2018). Their latest fashion show (2018) reached million views on Youtube. Visually, their online platforms match the in-store design, colour-scheme and brand identity.

Current Social Media/Influencer Marketing/Marketing Mix moodboard

marketing mix

conclusion To summarize, based on their current situation, Victoriaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Secret need to change their marketing approach and get on the body-diversity wagon. Times are changing and fashion is implicitly following. Hence, their marketing strategies should evolve too as they have been using the same methods since the 1990s. Transparency, authenticity and diversity are some of the attributes that todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s consumers are searching for when choosing a brand. Researching and anticipating the future is what brands should do to always be a step ahead competition.

proposed strategy

Proposed Social Media/Influencer Marketing/Marketing Mix moodboard

female empowerment In 2018 the brand’s CMO, Ed Razek tried to incorporate trending movements like feminism, body positivity and diversity into their annual show, but the results were not what people expected. As US author Jill Filipovic opinionated in 2016, “putting conventionally attractive women onstage — even if those women are more racially diverse than in past years — and using them as physical representations of sex in order to sell bras isn’t exactly a manifestation of the feminist dream” (cited in Manavis, 2018). Recent remarks of the brand’s CMO in an interview with Vogue also stirred online backlash and reinforced the VS idea of female beauty: “Does the brand think about diversity? Yes. Do we offer larger sizes? Yes,” he said. “Shouldn’t you have transsexuals in the show? No. No, I don’t think we should. Well, why not? Because the show is a fantasy”…We attempted to do a television special for plus-sizes [in 2000]. No one had any interest in it, still don’t.”. “In Western society, women feel tremendous pressure to be thin. Girls often start dieting as young as 10 years old and this preoccupation with weight and body shape is evident across the life span (Pliner, Chaiken, & Flett, 1990, cited in Strahan, Lafrance, Wilson, Ethier, Spencer, Zanna, 2007) Therefore, an approach more in-touch with current times and consumer demand would be to create a diverse and welcoming brand. Because lingerie brands have such an intimate relationship with customers, people believe it is imperative to make any woman feel good and confident in her own skin. Placing female empowerment at the core of the business would be more in line with younger generations’ expectations. 39

The brand could add diversity to their campaigns, shows and among their angels, while keeping alive the promised fantasy by using the same stylish and feminine vibe customers love. Highlighting the importance of being healthy, both physically and mentally, the team could hire professional nutritionists and trainers to the models look the “best” version of themselves before shows, instead of only using girls that fit certain measurements. Choosing models based on personality stresses the idea that beauty comes from within and any girl has the potential of being part of the fantasy. To illustrate that the brand places their customer at the heart of the business, a “digital tombola” could be organised to allow one lucky customer experience the world of Victoria at its fullest, on the catwalk. To participate, customers would have to create an online account and make a purchase of at least $50, either online or in-store and redeem a code afterwards. On the same previous note about feminism implementation, a good PR movement would be to add real feminists among their band ambassadors. Influential voices young consumers are looking up to like Sonny Turner(285k), Paloma Elsesser(195k), Hari Nef(357k), Lauren Wasser(107k), Lulu Bonfils(60.2k), Mariah Idrissi(886.3k), Ashley Graham(8M), Adwoa Aboah(744k) would attract a lot of attention and could benefit the brand’s public image. These models represent more than just a pretty face in the eye of consumers, they stand for something and aim to send the right message.

“don’t let your mind bully your body” -June Tomaso Wood

new technologies Furthermore, investing in technology would be one of the strongest recommendations for VS. An online survey, in which 55 women (64% between 16 and 25 and 30% 26-35) took part, revealed that 41% would use a 3-D body scanner to find their perfect bra and 43% would absolutely use it. 3D body scanning for custom sizes would open a new market for VS. Zozo Inc., a Japanese clothes-selling website, already implemented an innovative technology called “the Zozosuit”, a polka-dot bodysuit, aimed at providing customers with bespoke services for finding the perfect fit. Once wearing it, a mobile app software measures the distance between the white dots on the “black canvas” (the suit) and creates a virtual 3D body mould. After only a few months since the launch, the company claims it received orders worth 15.4 billion yen from Zozosuit users and collected so much data they do not need to use it anymore (Nakamura, 2018). VS could create a similar technology, a striped suit and a scanner app that could read how these stripes are displayed. Such measuring services could be available instore or at home and once the measurements are linked to an account, the software will only show the sizes that fit the customer or offer a custom-fit. Easing online shopping and showing consumers VS knows them and their needs strengthens the brand-customer link. In industries like retail, where the bridge between online and offline is often manifested through consumer smartphones, AR can significantly benefit businesses. (Bloom, 2017). Augmented reality is something fashion companies are already investing into. E-commerce giant Amazon.com bought Body Labs, a 3-D body-scanning start-up company, which allows customers to create

true-to-life 3D avatars to virtually try clothes on (Du, Takahashi & Alpeyev, 2018). Virtual Mirrors also have a huge potential for retailers and could boost both in-store and online sales. Eliminating all the fuss and exhaustion about trying on different sizes and colours in store would be a big step forward in improving customer experience. Virtual changing booths which carry no stock would be timesaving for consumers and will eliminate the resourcedemanding task of inventory management, while boosting the e-commerce side of a business. VS could invest in such technologies to expand their international business before opening Brick-and-mortar stores. If the consumer used the 3D body scanner, entering the account details will enable the mirror to fit the items on the body. “The pink booths” should be placed in areas of interest with a high concentration of younger demographics like university campuses. Implementation of an initial trial stage would be necessary to see how consumers react and expect the technology to work. In 2014, Japanese popular fashion, home and lifestyle retailer, Urban Research, launched a trial pop-up store (Japanconsuming, 2018) and popular fast-fashion brand Topshop partnered with AR Door to bring the AR experience to their Moscow store by using Kinect for the virtual fitting rooms (Sheehan, 2018). Generation Z holds the largest number of tech-savvy consumers and is the most likely generation that would completely embrace and accept technology into their lives. “Like Millennials, Pivotals operate in a market guided by technological advancements and a social landscape spanning the physical and digital worlds” (Fromm & Read, 2018).

collaborations

As a Mintel report about consumer perceptions on lingerie brands shows, people see VS as trend-setting and fashionable compared to other lingerie specialists. Past collaborations like the 2017 VS X Balmain have proven to be very successful and brought the brand great revenue. Hence, other collaborations with brands like OFF-White for a relaxed, streetwear inspired sportswear collection and runway outfits would suit the preferences of younger demographics. Street style is becoming increasingly important in todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s youth culture and brands like Supreme or A bathing ape are easily recognisable by Gen Zedders. Making changes while reinforcing the current aesthetic (feminine, sexy, stylish) and colour-scheme is important as we do not intend to alienate the current consumer that enjoys the designs and overall visual identity of the brand. Primary research also revealed that customers associate VS with the colours they use (pink) and perceive it as fashionfocused.

moodboards

Proposed Brand Market Position and Competitors moodboard

Proposed Consumer Demographics moodboard

REFERENCES Bloom, A. (2017, Nov 8, 05:30). Op-Ed | Why Augmented Reality Changes Everything. Retrieved from: https://www. businessoffashion.com/articles/opinion/op-ed-why-augmented-reality-changes-everything Cheng A. (2018, Nov 19). Victoria’s Secret, Facing A Slide In Sales And Profit, Is In Need Of A New Brand Pitch Fast. Retrieved from: https://www.forbes.com/sites/andriacheng/2018/11/19/victorias-secret-facing-a-slide-in-sales-andprofit-is-in-need-of-a-new-brand-pitch-fast/#aef531e4d707 Danzinger, P. M. (2018 Sep 8). Victoria’s Secret May Be Women’s Most Beloved Brand, But That’s Not The Love It Needs. Retrieved from https://www.forbes.com/sites/pamdanziger/2018/09/08/victorias-secret-may-be-womens-most-belovedbrand-but-thats-not-the-love-it-needs/#1d1bc30b32bb Fromm J. & Read A. (2018). Marketing to Gen Z: the rules for reaching this vast, and very different, generation of influencers. Published by AMACOM Ferrell O.C. &. Hartline M. D. (2011). Marketing Strategy (5th edition). Published by Cengage Grace L. (2012, Sept 14). Boux Avenue opening and interview with Theo Paphitis. Retrieved from: http://www.luciagrace. co/2012/09/boux-avenue-opening-interview-with-theo.html Hanbury M. (2019, Feb 13). Victoria’s Secret is now selling high-end lingerie from Paris that costs up to $200 for a bra. Retrieved from: https://www.businessinsider.com/victorias-secret-sells-expensive-lingerie-livy-2019-2?amp%3Butm_ medium=referral&utm_campaign=Feed%3A%2Bbusinessinsider%2B%28Business%2BInsider%29&utm_ medium=feed&utm_source=feedburner&r=US&IR=T Hill P. R. (n.d.). Fashion Industry Waste Statistics. Retrieved from: https://edgexpo.com/fashion-industry-waste-statistics/ Japanconsuming (2014, July 7, 12:00). In Japan, Urban Research Experiments with Virtual Changing Booths. Retrieved from: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/fashion-tech/japan-urban-research-experiments-virtual-changingbooths Jin B. & Cedrola E. (2017, Apr 27) Fashion Branding and Communication: Core Strategies of European Luxury Brands. Published by Springer. Manavis S. (2018, Nov 16). Why Victoria’s Secret is struggling to be “woke”; Vol. 147 Issue 5445, p18-19. Source: New Statesman Nakamura Y. (2018, Nov 1, 12:20 AM GMT). Zozo Ditches Body-Measuring Suit, Saying No Longer Needed. Retrieved from: https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2018-10-31/zozo-ditches-body-measuring-suit-saying-it-s-no-longerneeded Shannon D. (n.d.). The History Of Victoria’s Secret. Retrieved from: http://www.deliberatemagazine.com/historyvictorias-secret/ Accessed on: 07/02/2018 Sheehan, A. (2018, Feb 21). How These Retailers Use Augmented Reality to Enhance the Customer Experience. Retrieved from: https://www.shopify.com/retail/how-these-retailers-are-using-augmented-reality-to-enhance-the-customerexperience Strahan E. J., Lafrance A., Wilson A. E., Ethier N. (Wilfrid Laurier University); Spencer S. J., Zanna M. P. (University of Waterloo) (2007, Aug 14). Victoria’s Dirty Secret: How Sociocultural Norms Influence Adolescent Girls and Women. Van Elven M. (2018, Jun 07). What do Millennials and Generation Z consumers want from retailers?. Retrieved from: https://fashionunited.uk/news/business/what-do-millennials-and-generation-z-consumers-want-from55

retailers/2018060730094 https://www-statista-com.hallam.idm.oclc.org/statistics/270384/inflation-rate-in-the-united-kingdom/ Accessed on 01/02/2019 https://www.ons.gov.uk/employmentandlabourmarket/peopleinwork/employmentandemployeetypes/bulletins/ uklabourmarket/january2019 Accessed on 01/02/2019 https://www.lb.com/our-brands/victorias-secret Accessed on 25/01/2019

FIGURES Unknown date and author (Macro-economic analysis). https://deskgram.net/explore/tags/VictoriaSecretSpray. Accesed on 10.02.2019 Unknown date and author (Consumer demographics). https://www.pictame.com/ media/1466870271544845055_259764079. Accessed on 01.02.2019 Elle.com (2018, Nov 8) .All the Looks From the 2018 Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show (Social media and influencer marketing) .https://www.elle.com/culture/celebrities/g24751220/victorias-secret-fashion-show-2018-looks/?slide=20. Picture number 20. Accessed on 01.02.2019 Elle.com (2018, Nov 8) .All the Looks From the 2018 Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show (Moodboards) .https://www.elle. com/culture/celebrities/g24751220/victorias-secret-fashion-show-2018-looks/?slide=20. Picture number 16. Accessed on 01.02.2019 Unknown date and author. https://www.storetechco.com/news-and-events/news/it-s-all-about-the-experience-part-iigetting-personal. Accesed on 02.02.2019 Sheffield Hallam University (2018, Febr 22) .New campus masterplan places Hallam at the heart of the city .https:// www4.shu.ac.uk/mediacentre/new-campus-masterplan-places-hallam-heart-city. Accessed 02.02.2019 Wallace F. (2018, Nov 9). Winnie Harlow was as popular as Kendall, Candice, Behati and Adriana on the 2018 Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show runway (Contents page) .https://www.vogue.com.au/fashion/news/winnie-harlowwas-as-popular-as-kendall-candice-behati-and-adriana-on-the-2018-victorias-secret-fashion-show-runway/newsstory/0e6bd3a72f3f0790fbb2d16eff082380 Adhav L. (2018, Nov 9). All the Looks From the 2018 Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show. https://www.cosmopolitan.com/ style-beauty/fashion/g24851051/victoria-secret-fashion-show-outfits-2018/?slide=62. Pictures 54, 57, 58, 67. Savage x Fenty instagram account. https://www.instagram.com/p/BsowuvGll4-/. Accesed on 02.02.2019 Ann Summers instagram account. https://www.instagram.com/p/BtgLO53BC1T/. Accessed on 05.02.2019 Boux Avenue instagram account. https://www.instagram.com/p/Bqp_slRAGyv/. Accessed on 02.02.2019 Victoria’s Secret instagram account. https://www.instagram.com/p/BtQ1eDYAr7K/. Accessed on 02.02.2019

APPENDIX focus group interviews

Questions: 1.Have you ever heard about Victoria’s Secret? 2.Do you like the brand? What are your thoughts about their current aesthetic? 3.Do you think VS angels are good role models for younger girls? 4.Why do you think VS has been such a successful brand so far? 5.What do you think about their fashion show? 6.If you could change something about the brand, what would your recommendation be? 7.Where do you usually shop for underwear or lingerie? And why do you choose this place/brand over another? 8.Do you prefer in-store or online shopping for lingerie and why? 9.What bra style do you prefer? Push-up or comfortable/sport bras? Ilinca Barbato, 23 (Participant 1) 1.Yes 2. I am not sure if I like the brand itself or fantasy that was created around it. I am really not up to date with their current aesthetic, but I find the underwear in general very creative and colorful. Of course their provocative cuts and shapes presented on the runway are what we all think about when asked about VS 3. Up to o point yes. On one hand they are good example of ambition and hard work, proving that one can achieve his dreams when the goal is clearly set. On the other hand these models can have a very bad influence on young, fragile girls. Looking up to someone sized 9060-90, known only for her beautiful hair, glowy skin and perfect long legs can damage a young girl identity, creating a false beauty ideal. When looks are so highly promoted, other values fall in the background, leading to a superficial society, obsessed with their image only. The one who doesn’t “fit the standard” are marginalized or do it to themselves alone, can create depression and bad self-esteem 4. Because it promotes an ideal and creates a dream. It

allows the normal person to feel exclusive and special and this it what all of us wish for. 5. The fashion shows are the reason I’ve heard about VS. I only watch these for the entertainment and not really for the designs. 6. Nowadays, a lot of women fell that the Victoria’s Secret “paradise” is actually a world of exclusivity where the idea of female beauty and sexiness is narrow: white, slim and 6ft tall. My recommendation would be to include +size models, change the message they deliver, become more aware about the influence and power they have on young girl, include their basic pieces in the fashion shows 7. Intimissimi maybe or HM. Why? Good price-quality ratio, very convenient, you can find them in every mall 8. In store shopping because I can try on the bras and touch the fabrics. 9. Comfortable ones for every day and push up for special occasions. 10. No, not really. Especially if you are positioning yourself as a high value high class exclusive brand as VS does. It cannot target all market groups since they don t all belong to the wealthy ones.

Ioana Alexanra Oniga, 23 (Participant 2)

Marie Elise Conte, 28 (Participant 3)

1.Yes 2.I have mixed feelings about the brand – on one side their lingerie collections were never disappointing while on the other side I do not particulary agree with the fact that they recruited models like Kendall Jenner only for the sake of advertising. Regarding the aesthetic 3.No I do not because some teenagers are even willing to put their health at risk by starving themselves just because they feel ugly of fat compared to the VS Angels and believe that every woman should look like them - it is a well known fact that VS Models keep a strict diet months before their show because this is actually their job. 4. Because they brought something new to the table – they are unique because while other companies use celebrities for advertising (VS used this practice too especially in the last years) being a model at VS creates modeling careers. 5.The event draws the attention of million people from all over the world when it airs on TV. I think it was so successful because they are very customer focused , due to the marketing strategy and because of the innovation they brought to this field. 6.I would recommend a Fashion Show with women of all sizes in order to encourage anxious young girls to never feel shamed of their body. 7.I usually shop at H&M because they offer high quality lingerie at more than decent prices. 8.I prefer online shopping for lingerie strictly because the lack of patience for in store shopping. It suits me the best but I believe lingerie online shopping is risky especially if you do not know your size. 9. I prefer push up bras most of the days but when it comes to sports or feeling comfortable indoors I believe

1.Yes 2. I do, but recently I have seen in VS shops lingerie that looks basic, and I did not like it. For me, the whole idea of VS lingerie is to be sexy and glamorous. 3. Not necessarily, or at least not because they are VS models. 4. Good marketing, being associated with lux and beauty. 5. Spectacular. Exactly the way a fashion show should be. 6. Keep it classy and valuable. 7. Mostly Debenhams and HM. I like models from other brands, but from the brands I usually shop, I can get a bra that fits perfectly without trying it. 8. Online, for saving time and avoiding crowds. 9. I prefer lingerie that looks good, even if it’s not the

Bianca Niculescu, 22 (Participant 4) 1. Yes 2. I like the quality of their products and the prices are good as well 3. Yes I do think VS angels are a good role model for younger generations 4. because of the variety of their products 5. very cool and glamorous. I love it 6.I wouldn’t change a thing about VS. I like the brand just the way it is. 7. VS, malls or online 8. I do prefer both online or in store.( in store because whenever I have a bite of time off I prefer to relax doing shopping\ online because when my time is limited it is much easier and faster ) 9. push up and comfortable 10. I’m not sure. I think every brand should be entitled to 60

customer interviews

FEMALE

23 y/o

STUDENT/18 years old

STUDENT, UNEMPLOYED, was shopping with her boyfriend

UNEMPLOYED

Colourful

Overwhelmed

-hard to find bigger sizes

Pink

I find the store very voguey and girly. I like it.

I wouldn’t improve anything, I like it.

4. I made a purchase today because they had some offers and I usually shop at VS when they have sales.

-improve the layout because it’s hard to find where everything is -they don’t have every item on the website in store

FEMALE

4. No, I didn’t find anything I like (I usually prefer nice&simple)

16 y/o STUDENT

MOTHER&DAUGHTER

FEMALE

50 y/o EMPLOYED

35 y/o

18 y/o STUDENT (the daughter made a purchase)

EMPLOYED

Underwear

I feel welcome and I find the store very girly.

Pink

2. I like the style and overall layout of the shop, it makes me feel comfortable. 3. I don’t have any suggestions, everything is nice. (She thinks she can find stuff easy around the shop) 4.

She made a purchase today. Always shops at VS.

FEMALE

3. I would improve their layout as sometimes I find it confusing and annoying that they don’t have matching lingerie sets in the same place and I have to search for them around the shop or ask someone. I also think their prices are a bit high. I generally shop at VS when there’s sales. 4.

I bought a sports bra today.

Glamour

Fashionable

2. I like it, a lot easier to buy bras and have a great design, plus I find the bras very comfortable.

2. I like the shop and the design when you enter it has a feeling that makes you welcomed.

3. I would suggest a different layout to the shop, in order to find items more quickly, instead of spending a long time looking for one thing .

3. Get more plus-size models and more transgender people. Make it diverse because equality matters. It’s a problem they have and is currently being shown in the media. It’s discrimination. Only shop there for bra sizes

4. Yes- bought a new body mist and I really like the smell .

4. Didn’t buy anything today. Last time I bought a body spray when they had a sale of £5 each.

FEMALE 19 y/o STUDENT 1.

Stylish

2. I mainly go just for the spray, think the bras are a bit too much for me and don’t like buying in-store so I usually go online . 3. I would advise to actually care about the customers and show the right advertisement . 4.

Just a spray that’s all I buy.

FEMALE 15 y/o STUDENT

online survey

answers to question 12 I don’t have enough time

fashion shows

Boring

I don’t have time

Lack of time

I don t have a reason to watch vs, i prefer to do other things insted of that

Not enough time

No interest

Too busy

I’m not interested

Not really, I mainly watch the artists’ performance in VS. I find that VS has no diversity in it. All the models have the same typical slim, tall body type - It’s not realistic as most women (in real life) on average are 5’ 5 with different body shapes and sizes. To constantly see the same VS models, it makes women hate themselves for not having the “ideal” body type and therefore wanting to change their image to look like “perfect” models.

Boring

I’ve never heard of it

Don’t have the time I don’t have time. Not interested

I don t have time and i m not so interested in watching answers to question 19

What is one word you associate Victoria’s Secret with?

Confidence

Angels

Pink

Skinny

Glamour

Youth

Expensive

Fitness

Angels

Fake

Sexy

Perfection

Sexy

Beauty

Women

Sexy

Pink

Sexy

Angels

Seductive