Tennessee Log Home Construction Guide by Michael Estergren, Sr.

Tennessee Log Homes Construction Guide

Table Of Contents Preface Section 1 Section 2 Section 3 Section 4 Section 5 Section 6 Section 7 Section 8 Section 9 Section 10 Section 11 Section 12

Introduction Foundation Dry in Schedule Sub floor decks Logs Second Floor Roof Windows Misc Exterior Interior Walls and Stairs Electric Plumbing HVAC Misc Interior

PREFACE The Tennessee Log Homes Construction Guide is intended to illustrate and describe the fundamental log home construction methods approved by Tennessee Log Homes (TLH). It is also intended to expose you to optional methods of constructing certain building systems of your log home. It is strongly recommended that the entire Construction Guide be read and understood before beginning actual construction. The Construction Guide cannot replace the benefits of a good builder. It is not intended to teach the novice how to build. Instead, it is written to expose your good builder to TLH approved practices as well as optional methods of constructing certain systems. Tennessee Log Homes strongly urges you to contract only a quality builder to construct your package. Your search for the right builder may prove to be difficult, but the results are well worth your effort. Your Tennessee Log Homes package of materials is a quality package, but a bad builder can make it look terrible. Conversely, a good builder can make it look great. Please do not skimp on the builder and do not rush your efforts to find the right builder. There are three basic ways to get your home built. The first is to hire a licensed General Contractor. This method generally involves the least amount of stress, but it is also the most expensive. The general contractor is hired to control, build and oversee a construction project. This individual typically does very little hands-on work, but, instead, hires-out (or sub-contracts) the various jobs and phases of construction. The general contractor will profit by providing the labor and additional materials (above and beyond the log home package) at cost plus 10% to 20%. If your log home package costs $70,000.00, and the additional labor and materials cost $110,000.00, you can expect a general contractor to add $11,000.00 to $22,000.00 or more to the total cost of the project. The general contractor is thus compensated for the risk of building the structure and for warranty expenses should something go wrong. This is how most homes are built, and this is the approach most lending institutions prefer. It is typically the most expensive route, but it is also the safest and most conservative approach. This is the method recommended by Tennessee Log Homes. A second approach to the construction process is the owner/builder method, where the homeowner acts as the general contractor. The owner will usually do very little physical work, but, instead, acts more as a construction manager or supervisor. The owner/builder seeks and receives bids from sub-contractors and coordinates the project and building calendar. The owner/builder saves the money that would otherwise go to the general contractor. Other benefits include personal control over subcontractors, and the ability to "jump in" and do some of the work personally, thereby saving even more money. The owner/builder will generally pay more for bids than a general contractor would. Bear in mind that the entire construction project management task list can be very complex and require a large amount of work and planning on your part. Miscues can cost you thousands of dollars. Tennessee Log Homes does not recommend this approach if you are not skilled in construction project management.

A third approach is for the Do-It-Yourselfer (DIYer). As a true owner/builder, you personally do any amount of the labor you choose - usually most of it. This, of course, is the least expensive way to go, but the owner/builder must devote a tremendous amount of time to the project. This should only be attempted by experienced carpenters. Most lending institutions do not encourage this approach, nor does Tennessee Log Homes. Labor is usually 30% to 40% of the total cost of the project, and the DIYer should expect to save some of these labor costs. However, the DIYer should not attempt highly-skilled labor and should expect to make mistakes that cost time and money. The DIYer will usually pay more for materials that professional builders and will spend more for tools, equipment rental, insurance, etc. Tennessee Log Homes will not recommend a builder to you. Instead, we may be able to provide contact information to you for builders that have constructed Tennessee Log Home packages in the past. You should then satisfy yourself as to the quality and dependability of the builder. We also encourage you to send or bring your builder to the Tennessee Log Homes Training Center for a training session on our product and construction methods. Free weekend seminars are offered monthly and cover the fundamentals of the TLH package and recommended construction techniques. One weekend is not enough time to teach a layman how to be a builder, but it should be enough to teach a builder about the TLH process. Visit our website for more information (www.tnloghomes.com). If you and your builder cannot make the weekend seminar, we also offer Personal Training Days each week. Again, this is a free service designed to help you get your home built in a quality manner. You may schedule a full day of one-on-one technical assistance at the Tennessee Log Homes Training Center. Our master carpenter will spend the day with your builder and will concentrate on your specific plan, log style, roof system, etc. Your builder can request information and training on areas of most concern to him. Call 1-800-251-9218, extension 29, for Debra Adams to request more info. If a trip to Athens, Tennessee is out of the question, we can send our master carpenter to your building site to assist in the actual construction of your home. There is a daily fee associated with this service plus expenses. For more information, call Debra Adams at the number above. Tennessee Log Homes uses the services of a separate company, Tennessee Log Construction, LLC, to provide a wide variety of construction services as listed below. For more information, contact our offices at 1-800-251-9218. 1.

TLC Pre-Construction Assistance â&#x20AC;&#x201C; TLC representatives will supply estimated turn key pricing in your area for the complete construction of your Tennessee Log Home. These estimates will be helpful in providing you a "ball park" idea of what your Tennessee Log Home will cost to build. It will also be helpful in your preliminary banking and mortgage needs. We can coordinate the training of your local selected contractor concerning the installation of your TLH package or assist you in locating contractors in your area for that construction. TLC representatives will also be available throughout your construction for any needed consultation or advice concerning your building project.

TLC Personal Construction Training â&#x20AC;&#x201C; TLC has set aside every Tuesday and Wednesday in order to provide personalized construction training for you and your builder at the Tennessee Log Homes Training Center. You and your builder may travel to the Training Center to meet with our Master Carpenter for specific one-on-one training and discussion in the areas of most concern to your builder. This service is free to Tennessee Log Homes customers with a 10% or more deposit. To schedule your personal construction training day, please contact Debra Adams at 1-800-251-9218 or dadams@tnloghomes.com.

TLC On-site Technical Assistance for Log Wall Construction- Our representative will travel to your site and will work with your builder to assure that the logs go up correctly. By the end of one day, your builder should understand how to set the rest of the logs. Their questions concerning subsequent phases of construction should be answered as well. The qualified technician has constructed hundreds of quality homes across the country and he can be hired for as many days as needed.

TLC Dry-in Construction Consulting Services - Our Construction Inspector will review every aspect of the dry-in construction of your home with you and your builder. This detailed inspection will give critical attention to log walls, interior framing, window and door installation, and roof construction, focusing on areas where problems can show up later. Visits are scheduled several times during the dry-in phase of construction. Written reports are prepared after each visit.

TLC Dry-in Labor Services - Same services as the dry-in labor consulting service combined with the scheduling and management of the actual work to be performed. TLC will provide a qualified crew and handle all overhead, management and insurance requirements. A one year structural warranty is standard for all work completed along with the standard Tennessee Log Homes limited lifetime warranty as per your purchase agreement.

TLC Construction Management Services - TLC can provide a complete turn-key construction management service in certain areas. This is by far the most popular method chosen by our customers to get their log package 100% constructed. TLC will provide the supervisory labor, overhead and sub-contractor management necessary for all phases of your construction. All payments to suppliers and sub-contractors are made direct from the customer for substantial savings of overhead.

TLC Complete Turnkey Construction Services - This service is also only available in certain areas and combines the construction management service along with the actual hiring and payments to all suppliers and sub-contractors. The one year warranty for complete construction is standard along with the Tennessee Log Homes limited lifetime warranty as per your purchase agreement.

TLC Log Home Maintenance Services â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Although your Tennessee Log Home is designed to last for generations, proper care and maintenance is essential. Our representative can advise and recommend the right products and services for maximum performance and protection of your home. TLC can provide the materials and/or labor for any of the maintenance services.

TLC Structural Repair Services - For any needed repairs not covered by the Tennessee Log Home limited lifetime warranty, or for log homes manufactured by other companies, let TLC take a look at your problem areas and provide recommendations and/or construction services for the needed work. Only qualified professional crews will be used for these services, and TLC will provide all needed management and overhead related to the work performed.

The best scenario is to use a licensed local builder with a good reputation in your community. If you beginning the search for a builder, you may wish to check the following sources: 1. Contact local lumberyards and speak with the Contractor Sales Manager. Ask for names of builders, framers, carpenters, etc. that they are comfortable referring. 2. Ask your friends and neighbors. 3. Check your Yellow Pages. 4. Check with local realtors. 5. Check you local building code bureau office.

What are some things to look for when choosing a builder? Ask yourself the following questions, and, if you are not satisfied with the answers, maybe you should avoid that builder. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.

Do they return your phone calls promptly?Do they stick to their appointments? How was their presentation? Is the builder bidding your job or the one he would like you to do? Does your builder inspire confidence? Can you trust him? Do you actually like him?

The following are questions you may wish to ask the builder you are considering: 1. How long has your company been in business? 2. What is your License Number? 3. What is the licensing agency and their phone number? 4. Are you insured for liability? Through what insurance company and agency? 5. Are you and your workers covered by Workersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Compensation? Policy number? 6. Please provide 3 references for projects of similar scope. 7. Please provide 3 supplier references. 8. How many direct employees do you have? 9. What is your policy on change orders? 10. How long will your phase of construction take? 11. Do you work weekends? 12. Have you been in litigation with a homeowner in the last 5 years? 13. Are you a member of any professional trade organizations? 14. Do you offer any sort of written guarantee? The following are questions you may want to ask references provided by the builder: 1. Are you related to the builder? 2. What did the builder do for you? 3. Were there any delays? If so, why? With good reason? 4. Did workers show up regularly and on time? 5. Was the work area maintained in a neat and clean manner 6. Were actual materials and workmanship as specified? 7. Did he/she clearly detail all aspects of the job in writing? 8. How did the builder respond to changes? 9. Did he/she submit change orders in writing? 10. Were time and cost estimates held firm? 11. How were questions and complaints handled? 12. Were you comfortable asking questions about the job? 13. Was the final price held firm?

14. Would you use the builder again? 15. Did the crew (including the sub-builders' crews) live up to their sales pitch? 16. Was he/she present at job site daily? 17. Did the builder give regular progress reports and keep you informed about the need for timely decisions? 18. On a scale of 1 to 10, how would you rate this builder and the crew overall? When considering any builder, you may find it beneficial to verify licensing and insurance, contact the Better Business Bureau, check with neighbors, family and friends who have had work done that is similar to yours, and make sure the builder has at least five years' experience and is an expert in the type of work they are bidding. Remember that most business comes to a good builder from referrals, so he should be proud to show you his references. Once you’ve agreed on a bid with a builder, you must now get it in writing. The builder should provide a standard contract. Make sure it includes the following information: 1. Contract amount and payment schedule. 2. Detailed description of work to be performed. 3. A detailed list of materials to be provided. 4. Liability and Workmens’ Compensation insurance information. 5. Builder’s warranty, including how to get service. 6. Clean-up provisions. 7. Who will get building permits. 8. Estimated construction timetable. It is strongly recommended that you become very involved with your builder. Monitor the work progress on a daily basis. Keep a log of work performed each day, who was working, and the weather conditions. Keep a good line of communication with the builder by meeting with him daily or weekly. If you see things you do not like, as that they be changed or fixed. Document your discussions in your log. Your log should contain one sheet for each day during construction. A digital picture log is also highly recommended. Also, remember that every job will have problems and surprises. Try to maintain a cool head and reasonable attitude throughout. Keep lines of communication open and positive and focus on solutions rather than problems. If something is wrong, by all means bring it to your builder’s attention as quickly as possible. It’s better to deal with job site surprises calmly. Few mistakes are intentional, and they’re often the result of a mix-up in communication by the workers. Try not to constantly make changes, as this can frustrate a builder and add considerably to the cost of building. If you do need to make a change, by all means discuss it with your builder. However, you should expect to pay additional monies for the extra work. If you have any questions concerning the Construction Guide, please do not hesitate to call the TLH Drafting and Design Department at 1-800-251-9218 for clarification.

Section 1 Introduction

1-800-251-9218 www.tnloghomes.com

INTRODUCTION Congratulations on your purchase of a Tennessee Log HomesÂ&#x2019; package. You have, without a doubt, invested in one of the best log home packages available today, and can look forward to years of comfortable living. A Tennessee Log HomesÂ&#x2019; package includes only the best materials and craftsmanship. We have set a high standard that most other log homes companies can only look up to, and provide only the best products, engineering, design, and manufacturing. You have also invested in one of the best log home companies in the world. With three decades of service and experience, Tennessee Log Homes, is one of the most reputable companies in the industry. We are family-owned and operated, and are sure to be around for decades to come. We will stand behind our products after the sale and will stand with you, our customer, throughout the construction of your home and beyond. It is for this reason, service after the sale, that we have developed this construction manual. The manual is not intended to show you how to operate a Skil-saw, but, rather, to explain briefly the different phases of the log home construction process and lead you to experience greater efficiency in building, thereby saving you time and money. We feel this information may help take some surprises out of the building process while offering a structured building schedule for you to follow. The manual is well illustrated and will be best understood if the illustrations are carefully studied. Most of our customers have retained a licensed contractor and/or a skilled carpentry crew to do much or all of the actual building of their home, but they remain very attentive to each phase of the building process. Other customers do some of the work themselves and actually take the lead in the construction phase. And still others fall somewhere in between. Tennessee Log Homes strongly recommends that you use a local Licensed General Contractor to construct your log home. This manual is intended to help every customer. Spend a few days reviewing the Tennessee Log Homes Construction Manual and share it with your builder. Do not hesitate to call us at 1800-251-9218 and discuss any aspect of the construction process in greater detail. Again, congratulations on your new home.

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LIMITS OF LIABILITY OF THIS MANUAL All log home packages of Tennessee Log Homes, Inc. meet the structural requirements of most local building codes. However, such codes are not binding on local authorities, and the purchaser is responsible for obtaining all applicable permits and conforming to all local zoning regulations and building codes. No warranty is made by Tennessee Log Homes, Inc. that the structures will meet such codes. Tennessee Log Homes accepts no liability whatsoever for the actual construction of your log home package. Tennessee Log Homes is responsible only for the package contents as outlined in your Tennessee Log Homes Purchase Agreement. This manual is intended to recommend and demonstrate several methods of component construction that should be considered during your home construction. All contractors and carpenters have different styles and methods to construct a home. This manual is not intended to replace the ideas of your local builder, but to assist the builder should he or she have any questions about the log home construction process. This manual is very general and is not specific to your particular home plan. Always refer first to your actual blueprints for exact specifications. You should be aware that is is not possible to construct your own home with only the use of this manual and your blueprints. A skilled carpenter or crew is always a must to ensure that your home is built according to your local building code restrictions and even your neighborhood zoning requirements. PRE-DELIVERY CONSIDERATIONS FINAL PAYMENT: Final payment for your log home package must be made at or before delivery, prior to the unloading of your home package. Even in those cases where you receive your package in more than one shipment, be prepared to pay the entire balance due at delivery of the first load, with certified funds only. This is strict company policy with all customers. Please, no exceptions are allowed. Check with Tennessee Log Homes several days prior to delivery for the exact balance due [1-800-251-9218]. Personal checks will not be accepted. ACCESS: Your job site must be accessed by a tractor-trailer nearly 70 feet long and weighing up to 80,000 pounds. You are responsible for preparing access to and from the building site that will accommodate the vehicle. Watch for tight curves, low hanging limbs, steep hills, bridges with low weight limits, unpaved roads and other obstacles that may prevent the tractor-trailer from accessing your home site. Also, keep in mind that the truck will either have to turn around when unloaded or will have to back in to the site. It is strictly up to the truck driver as to how close to the job site he or she can travel without endangering themselves and their equipment. Furthermore, you must have room to maneuver the forklift and room to store the material. You should, therefore, have an alternate unloading site prepared in case you misjudge the accessibility of the job site. (Often a building supply house may unload and shuttle materials to the job site that is inaccessible to tractor-trailers.). STAGGERED DELIVERIES AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST: It is possible for Tennessee Log Homes to send your materials one truck load at a time, in the order that you will need them. You will need to have a forklift on site at each delivery for unloading and final payment for the entire package must be made at delivery of the first load. Contact our offices for delivery scheduling to make your request known, Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

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Be prepared to receive your package on a tractor trailer over 70 feet long and weighing up to 80,000 pounds. Your package will be delivered as close to your job site as conditions will allow. You will receive a Bill of Lading and a Materials List upon delivery.

or contact your sales representative. Tennessee Log Homes may also be able to purchase some of your material from a local building supply. It is more expensive for TLH to purchase material in this manner, but this may be offset by reducing the number of loads of freight required to deliver your package. The advantage is that you can have material delivered from the local supplier as you need it. You will not have to receive it all at once. Furhtermore, the local supplier will likely use smaller trucks making jobsite access easier. Tennessee Log Homes will not open Big-wheeled forklifts with a minimum lift capacity of 6000 pounds are well suited to unload trucks at building sites.

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a charge account at the local supplier. All material will be specified, bought and paid for by TLH in advance of delivery. To discuss this option, contact your sales representative or our offices. UNLOADING: The log home purchaser is responsible for acquiring a forklift or other equipment and unloading the log home package. An all-terrain type forklift generally works best and should be capable of lifting three tons. The heaviest bundle of materials will usually be less than 8,000 pounds and the average bundle will weigh approximately 4,500 pounds. You are allowed three hours to unload the trucks after their arrival. Please have the labor and equipment necessary to unload within the time limit on site before the scheduled delivery time. If you delay the trucks so that they cannot make their appointment to pick up their next scheduled load, you will likely be charged a fee by the trucking company. STORAGE OF MATERIALS: You will need the following items to properly store the materials you will receive with your log home package: 1. 4-mil. Plastic sheathing 2. Stacking lumber (4x4 s, 6x6 s, etc.) 3. Several bales of straw DELIVERY DAY On delivery day, after making final payment to the truck driver, you may begin unloading your log home package. Spread your straw on the ground where you wish to stack bundles of materials, preferably a high point near the subfloor but out of the way of porches, decks, etc. Use 4x4 or 6x6 wood spacers to keep bundles off the ground. The straw helps keep moisture away from wood and minimizes mud from splattering on the material. If your subfloor is already built, some logs should be set on the subfloor being certain that the weight is evenly distributed over the subfloor. Do not stack bundles within two feet of the subfloor perimeter to allow room to lay the first course of logs. CHECKING MATERIALS RECEIVED: Use your copy of the Bill of Lading and the Materials List (from truck driver) to inventory and count material received. Note obvious shortages or damages on the truck driver s copy of the Bill of Lading. After unloading is complete, further count and inspect materials received. You are allowed ten days to report damages, shortages, etc. to Tennessee Log Homes headquarters. If you need assistance or have questions to be answered concerning this inventory, do not hesitate to call us [1-800-251-9218]. Use the Delivery Report form at the end of this section to fax information concerning delivery and inventory to Tennessee Log Homes. Our main fax number is 423-744-8156. COVERING MATERIALS ON JOBSITE: You should keep all materials well covered and protected while being stored on the job site. Use a 4-mil plastic or tarpaulin to cover all materials, particularly kiln-dried products such as tongue & grooves, lumber, sidings, and doors and windows. Secure the plastic covering with weights around the bottom (wood blocks, bricks, etc.) to keep wind from blowing it off. On sunny days, remove the plastic to allow air circulation throughout the bundles, replacing the plastic at night. Many bundles will be wrapped from the factory. Keep the Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

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wrap to cover other bundles as the wrapped bundels are used. FINAL NOTES ABOUT DELIVERY: The truck driver is usually not an employee of Tennessee Log Homes and will not be participating in off-loading procedures. Please direct any questions you may have concerning the delivery or products received to your Tennessee Log Homes representative. Call Tennessee Log HomesÂ&#x2019; headquarters and let us know how your delivery went [1-800251-9218]. Try not to get frustrated. Remember, we are here to help you along the way

These customers are taking time to inventory their log home package. Use your Materials List and your Bill of Lading when taking your inventory. Tennessee Log Homes recommends a thorough accounting of materials immediately after unloading.

DIGITAL INVENTORY Tennessee Log Homes will take pictures of your home package using digital photography. Photos are taken at the factory as the materials are manufactured, gathered and loaded onto trucks. A floppy disk will be sent with your package so you may have a copy of the photographs. Tennessee Log Homes retains a copy of the photographs as well, and these are stored on our inter-office computer network. Such photos are beneficial in that we may help you locate particular items you may be confused about. Fell free to give us a call to discuss any of the photographs provided. It is highly recommended that you document delivery with digital photgraphs as well. It may be necessary for you to provide photographs to explain certain situations or to help solve materials quality and shortage issues. Your digital photographs can be shared with Tennessee Log Homes via email transfer and will greatly shorten the time it takes to investigate certain issues and discrepancies should they occur. Tennessee Log Homes is committed to customer satisfaction, yours in particular. We will honestly and fairly deal with any quality and/or shortage issues in a timely and responsive manner. We ask that you keep this in mind and assist us in serving you. Digital photography is a wonderful tool to help us.

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and will strive to help you with any problems you may encounter. It is very important to properly store your materials until you are ready to use them. The bundles have been stacked on 4x4 spacers under plastic sheeting. Cover the tops of the bundles only, not the ends. This will allow airflow through and around the bundles.

CONSTRUCTION TRAINING COURSE IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED Tennessee Log Homes offers a training course at our Training Center facility in Athens, TN at least 6 times per year. The course is designed for our customers and their builder to better prepare you for delivery, inventory and construction. Failure to attend this free course may result in you and your builder being unprepared to receive your log home package and to properly construct the package. On the other hand, your attendance at the free seminar will provide fundamental training in these and other areas that you will encounter during the log home construction process. You are encouraged to attend. Simply call your sales representative or go to our website to reserve your place at the seminar.

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FREE TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE Tennessee Log Homes provides Technical Assistance with every job, and it is included in the price when you buy a complete log home package. This Technical Assistance is provided during a free weekend seminar held at the Tennessee Log Homes Training Center in Athens, Tennessee. You are encouraged to attend with your builder. Seminars will be presented on a monthly basis. For a complete agenda and seminar schedule and to reserve your place, visit our website at www.tnloghomes.com or call us at 1-800-251-9218. The Technical Assistance Seminar will be a two-day event. The Friday afternoon session will be more general and will address topics such as budgeting, packaging options, financing, insurance, builders, drafting, etc. You may meet all the TLH staff and many vendor representatives. The Saturday session will be centered around the construction of your log home. You will receive hands-on training on constructing the various systems included in your log home package, from the subfloor through the roof. You will also learn more about delivery day, inventory, storing the package and maintaining your new log home. Your Tennessee Log Homes independent dealer will be able to provide free on-site assistance. Please contact the dealer to arrange their assistance. FEE-BASED, ON-SITE TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE It is vital that you get started right when constructing your Tennessee Log Home. This is why we offer additional on-site Technical Assistance. Our representative will assist you in starting the log wall construction, assist with inventorying your log home package and discuss all phases of construction. You may hire the representative for as many days as you like. However, this should be scheduled well in advance. To arrange for on-site technical assistance from one of our experienced log home builders, contact your dealer and/or our offices at least four weeks prior to delivery. Do not, however, schedule on-site assistance on the same day you take delivery of your home. Furthermore, you will be best served by the technical assistance if you have your foundation and subfloor built and are ready to put up log walls when the assistance arrives. To have logs for the first few courses on the subfloor (away from the perimeter) is also efficient. Call or Fax our office ( 1800-251-9218 ext. 29 phone or 423-746-5057 fax) no later than 30 days prior to the day you want our representative to work on your site. You must have your foundation and subfloor complete before our representative can start to work. Our representative will arrive the night before he is to work and will contact you by phone to set up a meeting time to begin working and to clarify directions. If you are in a remote area please let us know of motels in the area. Our representative will arrive at your site on the scheduled day and work for 8 HOURS with two 15-minute breaks and a 30-minute lunch break. If you would like to schedule the representative for additional days or hours it will have to be pre-arranged with the initial scheduling. Rates for on-site assistance vary depending on location. Please call your sales representative for rates in your area, or contact our offices at 1-800-251-9218. You should have your builder and crew ready for work. A good working crew should have 5 men (a minimum of 3). Also, have your electrician on site to insure that your electrical layout meets local codes. Your electrician may have questions that our technician will be able to answer. All tools should be provided by your crew since, many times, our representative will be flying in. A list of tools needed is given on the following page. Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

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The following table lists many tools and other items commonly used by our Technical Assistance representative in the construction of log walls.

QTY

DESCRIPTION

USE

1 set 2 1 2 1 1 2 1 2 1 2 1 1 1 1 or 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 or 2 1 1 or 2 1 1 1 As req d As req d As req d 1 1 5 1b. 5 lb.

Blueprints Carpenter pencils 50 or 100 tape measure 20 , or 25 steel tape measure Chalk box and line Framing square 30 oz. caulk gun 16-24 oz. claw hammer Large ball pene hammers Large sledge hammer small sledge hammers 1 or 1-1/2 wood chisel 1/2 power drill with reverse 3/8 electric drill with reverse Large Electric Impact Wrench 1/2" x 16" Auger Bit 1" Butterfly Bit Plumb Bob Roll Nylon String 1 dia. wood boring bit or larger good hand saw 7-1/4 circular saw Chain saw 10" or 16 power saw 4 level Reciprocating saw Pry bar Wisk broom Floor Broom First aid kit Safety glasses 2x4x12 lumber Scaffolding cat paw or nail puller 6' step ladder 10D galvanized nails 16D galvanized nails

Insure properly placed features Mark dimensions for cutting or placement Building layout and checking Building construction Building layout Mark or check squareness Caulk application General nailing Driving spikes Adjusting walls Driving spikes Tongue removal and outlet boxes Hole drilling & driving lag bolts Electrical box cut out Installing Lag Bolts Drilling additional holes for lag bolts Countersinking Marking Locations for roof construction Marking Locations Electrical hole drilling (12 or longer auger) Incidental needs Cutting door/window bucks, splines Cutting logs, beams Insure square log cuts for rafters Check plumb on windows/doors, log walls Electrical box cut outs Spike removal (if needed) Clean log courses Clean work area Personal safety Personal safety Bracing to keep log walls plumb Top log courses and 2-story log walls Pulling nails Access Toenailing logs Incidentals

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Delivery Report Form

Fax completed form to 423-744-8156

Customer Name:_______________________________________ Date:____________ Trucks: Scheduled meeting time:_____ Unloading location:_____________________ Company:_____________Truck #:______Driver Name:______________Arrival Time:_________Departure:_______ Company:_____________Truck #:______Driver Name:______________Arrival Time:_________Departure:_______ Company:_____________Truck #:______Driver Name:______________Arrival Time:_________Departure:_______ Company:_____________Truck #:______Driver Name:______________Arrival Time:_________Departure:_______ Sales Representative Name:_____________________________ Present at Delivery?_______________________ Final Package Payment given to ____________________________________________________________________ Please note any damages or shortages below: (Also note damages on Driver's Bill of Lading) Fax to our offices for assistance with these matters.

__________________________________________ __________________________________________ __________________________________________ __________________________________________ __________________________________________ __________________________________________ __________________________________________ __________________________________________ __________________________________________ __________________________________________ __________________________________________ __________________________________________ __________________________________________ __________________________________________ __________________________________________ __________________________________________ __________________________________________ Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

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"This is the third log home seminar I have attended in the last three years. This is by far the best." Richard Melton, Richland, IN CLICK HERE to read 100+ more testimonials

APPLY NOW! for one of the following FREE* seminars: (all seminars start at 10:00am on Friday and end by 5:00 pm on Saturday) *A small deposit is required to reserve seating. The deposit will be refunded immediately upon your arrival.

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CLICK HERE TO REGISTER ON ONE OF THESE DATES TESTIMONIALS FROM THOSE WHO HAVE ATTENDED

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CLICK HERE to See a streaming video-movie about the Training Center.

Tennessee Log Homes Training Center

Our new terrace (above) is the perfect spot for hands-on construction training.

Our exhibition hall is spacious and comfortable and features displays, samples, wireless sound system, high-speed internet and computer projection systems.

Our caterer provides wonderful food, drink and service. Our program allows for lots of free time to browse and enter specific discussions with our expert staff.

Since the Training Center is at our manufacturing facility, you get a first class tour.

If hands-on participation suits you, we have plenty.

Open House tours of our model center are included. Maps to over a dozen TN Log Homes within a 20-minute drive are provided for private drive-by tours.

Our Facility is located in a beautiful rural setting. Feel free to take a walk along the spring-fed creek and see what's happening down at the pond.

ATTENTION! FREE Training Seminars at the TLH Training Center are very highly rated! CLICK HERE for summer schedule, more info, testimonials, course outline, registration. TO RECEIVE THE INDUSTRY'S BEST FREE LITERATURE, CLICK HERE

click the partial testimonial below to read more from this satisfied customer ...We looked at several log home companies. No one offered to help us unload the house or get a forklift as they did... Roger & Cynthia Earley, Greencastle, IN

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Section 2 Foundation

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FOUNDATION Check with your local Building Inspector as to required foundation specifications for your area and build your foundation precisely as specified by the Tennessee Log Homes Foundation Plan and/or your local building code bureau. Your footings should be a minimum 10 deep and 20 wide with 2 pieces of 1/2 rebar laid horizontally around the perimeter throughout. Your local building code bureau may supersede this specification. Footings for all piers should be built at this phase of construction. Locate piers exactly as specified in the Tennessee Log Homes Foundation Plan. These footings should be a minimum of 12 deep and 28 x28 wide with 2 pieces of 1/2 rebar. Some of these piers will support much of the weight of the second floor system and the roof system and should, therefore, be located precisely as specified. Proper support of the roof is critical in log home construction (a series of support posts are aligned vertically to bring support from a foundation pier to the subfloor, then up to the second floor, then up to the ridge beam in the roof system). If you will have a basement concrete slab, you must still install footers underneath the slab for your support posts to rest upon. A concrete slab alone will not support the weight carried by the center roof support posts and piers. Furthermore, if you are using floor trusses for your subfloor, those piers, which support the second floor and roof, must be installed and support posts used under the first and second floor systems. A common method of pier building is to build the piers 11 shorter than the exterior foundation walls. This will allow the floor joists to meet on top of the triple 2x10 girder beam. The 11 allows for a 2x8 sill plate beneath the triple 2x10 girder beam. Treated sill plates should always be used when wood meets concrete or block. Check local building codes to determine if this is a viable option for your area. It is best to pour footings at this time for all porch and deck piers. Again, precisely locate these footings and piers according to your Foundation Plan in the blueprints. When laying concrete block foundations, use 12 block below ground and 8 block above ground. Locate screened vents and hose bibs at your discretion. Four-inch solid cap blocks should complete the top course of the foundation. Be certain to construct your foundation so that water in the basement or crawl space is not a problem. Standing water under a log home can create problems in the future. Also, there should be a minimum of 22 clearance from the ground to the bottom of the subfloor joints. Most importantly, keep the foundation square and level. Log homes will not fit on a subfloor that is out of square or unlevel. If you are having your foundation work done for you, do not fail to check the block mason s work throughout the block-laying process to be sure the foundation is square and level. Let him know the importance of having a properly built foundation. Building log homes on concrete slabs is not recommended by Tennessee Log Homes. Slabs allow no room to run the mechanicals of the home and do not elevate the home above ground level. Log homes can certainly be built on slabs, but such construction will not be discussed herein. When laying out your footings for your foundation, keep in mind that the foundation size must be exactly equal to the subfloor size. If you will have brick or stone veneer on the exterior of your foundation, this exterior layer may lie within the subfloor dimensions, if the layer is structural. Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 2

Page: 1

Top Photo: The location of footings and piers, based on the blueprints, has been marked on the ground with spray paint. This is in preparation for a back-hoe or excavator to dig the footings.

Middle Photo: A laser leveling device is used by the back-hoe operator and his helper to insure the footings are dug to the proper depth and are reasonably level.

Bottom Photo: Once the footings are dug, steel reinforcing rods are set in the footings.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 2

Page: 2

The type, size, amount and spacing of foundation steel should be determined by your local building codes. Some codes require that caissons be dug in the bottom of the footing as shown in the top, left photo. Grade stakes are set with their tops level so that the concrete may be levelled properly when poured. Termite treatment should be applied via your local exterminator to the footings before concrete is poured.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 2

Page: 3

Top Photo: A caisson is a 10 to 12-inch diameter hole dug or drilled in the bottom of a footing. The hole goes down into the bedrock. The size and spacing of caissons will be dictated by your local code, if required.

Middle Photo: Concrete is poured into the footings and is levelled to the tops of the grade stakes.

Bottom Photo: Once the concrete is poured, block, sand and mortar mix should be delivered. The block should be spread around to all sides of the foundation if possible. The concrete footings should be allowed to set up for several days before laying block.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 2

Page: 4

Top Photo: There are many types of foundations, such as concrete block, poured concrete walls, slabs, pilings, framed, etc. The most common is concrete block as shown and discussed herein. Generally, wider block is used below th finished ground line, with narrower block above. The inside faces of the two sizes of block are stacked flush so a brick-ledge is created on the outside. This supports the outer foundation wall covering (brick, stone, etc.). Build your foundation according to your local building codes. Middle Photo: Be certain to leave openings for access to crawl space. Locate vent opening according to your local codes.

Bottom Photo: Piers for the center subfloor girder, porch support piers, fireplace support walls, etc. are all a part of your foundation and should be built to the exact dimensions and location as indicated on your blueprints.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 2

Page: 5

Top Photo: Piers for porch floor and roof support should be located precisely according to your foundation blueprints.

Bottom Photo: Anchor bolts should be located according to your local codes. These are used to secure the subfloor sill plate to the foundation.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 2

Page: 6

Top Photo: You may elect to consider the thickness of your foundation veneer (brick, stone, etc.) when constructing your foundation. It may be possible to include this thickness in the foundation dimensions so that the veneerÂ&#x2019;s outer surface is flus with the subfloorÂ&#x2019;s outer surface. In this instance, a two-inch thick cultured stone is to be used to cover the block foundation walls. Therefore, two inches was allowed on each side of the foundation so the stone and subfloor would be flush. It is vital that the foundation and subfloor be the exact size given on the blueprints. Otherwise, your pre-cut log wall system will not fit correctly.

Bottom Photo: The block walls were inset two-inches on each side to allow the two-inch veneer to be flus with the subfloor. The subfloor is the exact size given on the prints. The foundation walls, including the stone veneer, are the exact size given on the prints. Minor discrepancies in the size and squareness of a foundation can often be corrected during the construction of the subfloor. Make certain that the subfloor is precisely sized and is square and level.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 2

Page: 7

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 2

Page: 8

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 2

Page: 9

Top Photo: Many builders prefer to set the subfloor girder beams so that their top is flush with the top of the sill plates which sit on top of the outer foundation walls. The joists will then pass over the top of the girder.

Middle Photo: Whenever girder beams will be set low so that joists may pass over the top, the girder must be supported on each end and throughout its length. In this photo, a beam pocket was left in the concrete block wall to support the beam on the end. Piers should be constructed down the length of the beam to support its middle. Typically, these piers should be less than 8-feet apart, or per your local building codes.

Bottom Photo: In some cases, piers along the length of the girder are undesirable. In this photo, the owner wishes the girder to span from side-wall to side-wall with no posts or piers in the middle. In such case, a larger beam may be required. An LVL beam is shown here. Other common beams used for this purpose are solid wood heavy timbers, glue-lam beams and steel beams. The sizes of girder beams should be known at the time the foundation is built so the mason can leave the appropriate beam pockets. Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 2

Page: 10

Section 3 Dry-in Schedule

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THE DRY-IN SCHEDULE Upon completion of your foundation, you are ready to begin what is generally called the dry-in phase of construction. The following is a list of procedures involved in what Tennessee Log Homes considers a complete dry-in. Some of the materials required to complete this phase of construction may not have been purchased in your Tennessee Log Homes package of materials. 1. Subfloor construction including sill plate, girders, floor joists and sheathing. 2. Deck construction for covered porches and open decks with rails, steps 3. Log wall installation and pre-drilling for wiring in first two courses 4. Second floor girder beam and joist installation with applicable wiring runs 5. Second floor tongue & groove decking installation 6. Shed dormer wall construction 7. House ridge beam, rafter and collar tie construction 8. Gable end wall and gable dormer wall construction 9. Tongue & groove decking installation, vapor barrier and wiring runs (Premier Roof System. For conventional roof sheathing and felt installation on top of rafters) 10. Roof insulation panels, ventilation mechanisms, OSB and felt installation (Premier Roof System. For conventional roofs, installation of roof insulation not a part of dry-in process). Finish roofing installation is generally not a part of the dry-in phase. 11. Porch posts, plates and rafter construction 12. Tongue & groove porch roof decking and felt 13. 7/16 O.S.B. sheathing, Tyvek, and log siding installation for gables and dormers 14. Exterior doors and windows with exterior trim installation 15. Interior stud wall construction and interior stairs 16. Exterior roof fascia installation 17. Subfloor band siding installation The following list of materials is generally not included with a Tennessee Log Home package of materials. These items may need to be purchased locally before or during construction of the dry-in package: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.

Anything to do with the foundation, termite shield, anchor bolts Nails Joist Hangers Deck Floor Posts, Basement Support Posts, Deck Steps (stringers and treads) Misc. Lag screws, bolts, etc. Screened vents, continuous vents Finished roofing, flashing, ridge vents Basement framing and stairs Interior wall coverings, floor coverings

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 3

Page: 1

THE DRY-IN PHASE OF CONSTRUCTION ILLUSTRATED: Again, Tennessee Log Homes feels that it is improper to construct your log home without the use of a Lisenced General Contractor. In addition, we are offering to provide you and your builder with free training in delivery, inventory, and construction techniques. This training will be offered at least 6 times per year at the Tennessee Log Homes Training Center in Athens, Tennessee. We feel it is imperative that you attend this free training seminar. Many problems may be prevented by your attendance. We will show you the proper way to perform many of the tasks required during delivery and beyond, but we cannot accept any liability for these task not being properly performed. Furthermore, we cannot guarantee that we will address every situation you may encounter while delivering and building your log home. The following pages illustrate the dry-in phase of construction using computer generated images. The home shown is a basic story-and-a-half model with a heavy timber second floor and exposed beam roof system. Your specific model and package contents may vary considerably.

These two photos: The home shown in these two photos is nearing completion of the dry-in phase of construction. The Dry-in Framing crew is finished, and the roofer is well into the finish roofing installation.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 3

Page: 1A

Top Photo: The foundation, basement, slab, etc. is constructed by owner or ownerÂ&#x2019;s builder prior to delivery of materials from Tennessee Log Homes.

Middle Photo: The subfloor framing materials, including sill plates, girder beams, rim joists, floor joists are constructed. The rim joists are typically doubled to offer increased support for the heavy log walls and to provide solid wood for the screws in the first course of logs to bite into. Note that the outer member of the doubled rim joists along porches should be treated material. This section of the subfloor rim or band is generally not covered with siding. The treated wood will prevent the band from rotting if it gets wet. Only the outer member of the doubled band is treated, and only along porches and decks. Bottom Photo: Subfloor sheathing is installed over framing. ***NOTE: It is highly recommended that all nails used throughout the remaining dry-in construction be galvanized to prevent staining of materials when nails get wet. The extra expense for nails is less than the cost incurred to clean up the stains during the finish construction phase. Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 3

Page: 2

Top Photo: Deck and Porch floor framing generally includes joists and rim joists. Joist hangers, ledgers, girder beams, lag screws, nails, posts under floor, steps and step stringers, and railing are generally not a part of the Tennessee Log Homes package, but are a part of the dry-in phase of construction.

Middle Photo: Porch and deck floor decking is installed over framing.

Bottom Photo: Log wall system is installed on top of subfloor or slab. All wiring needed in the log wall system must be allowed for by drilling during this phase of construction. Your electrician should be present to validate the work and locations.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

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Top Photo: Second floor system framing is installed. Usually heavy timber construction, but may also be conventional material. Wiring runds are often channelled into the tops of these beams. This is considered part of dry-in construction. Your electrician should supervise.

Middle Photo: Stairs to second floor are installed. Usually heavy timber with no precuting, but can be conventional framing or heavy timber precut system.

Bottom Photo: Studwall framing for the first floor walls is included in most cases. These walls are non-load bearing (floating). They must be constructed under the second floor to allow the floor to be lowered to accomodate settling without binding the walls or being held up by the walls.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 3

Page: 4

Top Photo: Second floor decking is generally included. With heavy timber second floors, the decking is generally 2x6 T&G. With conventional floors, the decking is usually a plywood or OSB flooring product.. In either case, the decking is not intended to be used as finished flooring. Finished flooring installation is generally not considered part of a dry-in construction schedule.

Middle Photo: Framing for second floor studwalls is installed. The second floor studwalls are generally rigid (not floating). However, if the exterior log walls form the second floor level, then the interior studwalls on this level should be floating to allow settlement of the upper floor log walls. Generally, 1-1/2 story models have rigid interior walls on the second floor. Models with full two-story exterior log walls will need floating interior walls on the second floor level.

Bottom Photo: Exterior studwall construction is part of the dry-in phase of construction. Generally, gable ends, shed dormer walls, gable dormer walls, etc. are framed and sided. The package generally includes 2x6 framing, OSB exterior sheathing, Tyvek Homewrap for exterior, and some sort of exterior siding. The insulation installed in the framed wall is generally not considered part of the dry-in phase, nor is the finished wall covering for the inside of the wall (sheetrock, T&G, etc.).

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 3

Page: 5

Top Photo: Exterior doors and windows are generally included in the dry-in phase and are to be installed. Openings in log walls are generally pre-cut to accept windows and doors, but minor trimming of the opening may be necessary on site. Odd-shaped windows are generally not pre-cut at the factory. Openings in studwalls are framed on site. Openings for fixed glass are generally framed, then a local glass company is called in to measure the openings, make the glass and install the glass in the openings. Fixed glass is generally not a part of the Tennessee Log Homes package. Exterior trim is installed. Interior trim is generally not considered part of dry-in construction. A metal drip edge should be installed over every window and door on the exterior to prevent water from seeping behind the window trim. Middle Photo: The roof framing is installed. There can be a wide variety of roof systems, from heavy timber exposed beam framing to conventional pre-built roof trusses. With heavy timber framing, most hardware is included in the package, excepting nails. Wiring runs are often recessed into the tops of beams, and this is considered part of the dry-in construction pahse. Your electrician should supervise this.

Bottom Photo: The heavy timber roof system is a Â&#x201C;built-upÂ&#x201D; system. Generally, 2x6 T&G is installed over the heavy timber framing to form the roof deck. Continuous vent strips are installed in the roof overhang areas to allow air to enter the roof system and travel through the vent channels on top of the insulation layer.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 3

Page: 6

Top Photo: Heavy timber framing for porch roofs is installed. This includes the porch posts and top plate and the rafters. Some hardware to secure posts to floor and to plates may need to be purchased locally. Hardware to attach rafters to house roof deck and to porch plate is generally included.

Middle Photo: The house roof deck MUST be covered with a vapor barrier. 30# Felt is usually supplied for this. Under no circumstances is this vapor barrier to be omitted from construction. If there is no felt on the jobsite, owner should purchase locally. Failure to install the vapor barrier can lead to serious complications. In extremely cold climates, a heavier barrier is recommended, such as Â&#x201C;Ice Dam.Â&#x201D;

Bottom Photo: Rigid insulation panels form the next layer on top of the vapor barrier. The insulation should be cut to fit between porch rafters and should extend all the way down to the log walls. It is gnerally not recommended to insulate overhang areas. Blocking is used to hold insulation off of these areas. These areas are reserved to allow air to enter the roof system and travel through ventilation channels to the top of the roof and to escape through a ridge vent installed with the finished roofing. Air flow is above the insulation layer.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 3

Page: 7

Top Photo: A framed and sided knee wall is constructed under porch roofs to close in the area above the log wall. Continuous vent strips are generally installed in the wall to allow air to enter and vent through a ridge vent above the insulation layer. Vent strips are generally not included in the package. 2x lumber is installed on edge around the entire insulation layer perimeter to act as subfascia and a nailer for the OSB roof sheating to be installed later. The top of the perimeter blocking should be the same height as the top of the insulation venting mechanism. The OSB sheating will lay flush across the top of the vent mechanism and perimeter blocking. Middle Photo: Porch roof decking is installed on top of the heavy timber porch roof framing. The deck is usually 2x6 T&G. The decking must join the house roof insulation layer so as not to block the air flow coming through the vents in the porch knee wall. Therefore, the house roof insulation should be installed first, with the porch roof decking being installed afterwards. The porch roof decking butts up to the top of the insulation layer and does not block the vent channels in the insulation layer.

Bottom Photo: Once insulation is installed, the roof sheathing, usually OSB, is installed. Screws are provided to screw through the sheathing layer, through the insulation layer and about 2/3 of the way into the roof decking. The screws should not come through the roof decking and show inside the home. Porch roofs are generally not insulated.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 3

Page: 8

Top Photo: Once the OSB sheathing is installed, the entire house and porch roofs should be covered with a final layer of roofing felt.

Middle Photo: The perimeter of all roofs is trimmed with fascia, usually 1x12. The roof is now ready for finished roofing, drip-edge, etc. Guttering should also be added. Siding is generally applied over the subfloor band.

Bottom Photos: The following photos show how the home will look on the inside after dry-in construction is complete.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 3

Page: 9

Top Photo: The area between the top of the log walls and the roof (area between rafters) is called the snowblocking. This area should be enclosed using short pieces of 2x framing and exterior siding. The snowblock is built from the outside. The finish crew will generally stuff the area with insulation from the inside and will cover the area with finish boards. Only the exterior portion of the snowblock area is generally constructed during the dry-in phase.

Middle Photo: Interior first floor picture.

Bottom Photo: Interior second floor picture (story-and-a-half).

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 3

Page: 10

Section 4 Subfloor and Decks

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SUBFLOOR CONSTRUCTION Refer to the diagrams included in this section and the Appendixto better understand the information provided. Again, check with your local building code enforcement bureau and use your local building codes and/or the specifications in the Tennessee Log Homes blueprints (whichever is greater) when constructing your subfloor. The first step in building your subfloor is to check the squareness of the foundation. You must remedy any out-of-square or out-of-level problems in the foundation by installing a sill plate and subfloor that is level and square to the nearest 1/4 inch. Use treated shims to level the sill plate if necessary and be certain that it is square. Furthermore, it is vital that the overall dimensions of the sill plate and/or subfloor are exactly as specified in the blueprints. Out-of-square, out-of-level, and wrong-size subfloors will cause serious problems further into the construction process. If your foundation is the wrong size, it may be possible to build the correct size subfloor on top of the foundation. The subfloor can generally overhang a foundation that is an inch or two undersized without a problem. Sill plates are generally constructed with 2x8 treated lumber and are governed by your local building code enforcement bureau. Sill plates should be installed using 1/2 anchor bolts every four feet around the foundation perimeter to fasten the sill plate to the foundation. The foundation contractor usually performs anchor bolt installation. This may be superceded by your local building codes. Always check with your building inspectors office before beginning. Once the sill plate is square, level and properly anchored, construction of the subfloor may begin. A subfloor for a log home is no different than one for a conventional home with the following exceptions: 1. Double headers or joists should be used around the subfloor perimeter. 2. There must be solid blocking under the subfloor deck where support posts will be located. 3. Minimum 2x10 floor joists are recommended. Complete the subfloor as per the blueprints, and remember that the most important aspect of a Tennessee Log Homes log home subfloor is that it be square, level and built to the exact dimensions as specified in the Tennessee Log Homes blueprints to the nearest 1/4 inch. A standard Tennessee Log Homes package includes 2x10 floor joists to be placed 16 on center. Floor trusses and Wood I-Beams are popular alternatives for the subfloor. It is important to remember that even with Wood I-Beams a girder beam is still required. While most trusses can span without center supports, often times there will be support posts upstairs on the main floor that must be supported by a post to the footings. With Wood I-Beams and Floor Trusses, it is still important to place solid blocking below any main floor support post that does not fall directly on a structural member.

TIP: Once the subfloor band and joists are constructed, check all floors for squarness. If the floor is racked it can be shifted in the appropriate direction to help get the floor square. SQUARE THE FLOOR BEFORE PUTTING ON YOUR SUBFLOOR SHEATHING. Once the sheathing is installed, the floor cannot be shifted. Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 4

Page: 1

Top Photo: Most subfloors require a center girder beam to break the span of the subfloor joists. The girder rests upon piers in the foundation. Usually, the girder is formed by laminating three 2x10Â&#x2019;s together. The top of the girder can either be set at the same height as the bottom of the floor joists so that the joists rest on top of the girder, or the top of the girder can be set at the same height as the top of the floor joists so the joists butt into the girder (see diagram below). When joists butt into the girder, joist hangers are generally required.

Middle Photo: The girder is assembled using glue and nails to secure the threeply girder together. The splices in the layers of the girder should alternate and should always break over the piers.

Bottom Photo: Sill plates should be installed on top of all foundation walls and piers using treated lumber. Joists and girders sit on top of the sill plates. Holes are drilled in the sill plate to allow the foundation anchor bolts to pass through. Nuts and washers are used on the anchor bolts to secure the plate to the foundation.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 4

Page: 2

Top Photo: The girder beam shown here is set so its top is flush with the top of the sill plate. The joists will sit on top of the sill plate and will also sit on top of the girder. The ends of the girder must be supported by a pier against the foundation wall, or a beam pocket must be made in the foundation wall for the girder to sit in.

Middle Photo: Once the girder is constructed and set into position, joist locations are marked according to the blueprints.

Bottom Photo: Joist locations are also marked on the sill plate and correspond with the locations marked on the girder.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 4

Page: 3

Top Photo: Joists are cut to the proper length and set into position. The joists shown here are wood I-beam joists and run the entire width of the floor. When standard solid wood joists are used, the joists will typically break over the girder beam.

Middle Photo: Joists are secured to the girder beam and sill paltes using standard 16-penny coated nails.

Bottom Photo: Once the joists are in position, the outer rim or band is installed. The outer face of the band is flush with the outer edge of the sill plates. The subfloor must be kept square and to the exact dimensions of the blueprints for the log walls to fit properly. Standard solid wood subfloors will have a doubled rim or band. The subfloor shown here uses a single rim. Short blocks of the wood i-beams are added between the joists later. It is important in log home construction to have enough support around the rim of the subfloor. Screws in the first course of logs should sink into the rim joists or solid blocking between joists. It is not sufficient to simply drill through the subfloor sheathing.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 4

Page: 4

Top Photo: Pieces of wood I-beam are cut to the proper length to be fit between the joists agains the outer subfloor rim.

Middle Photo: The wood I-beam blocking is installed between the joists. With this type of subfloor, it is important to have a wood I-beam adjacent to the rim around the entire subfloor perimeter. This supports the weight of the log walls and offers something solid for the log screws to be drilled into. Subfloor adhesive is applied to the tops of the joists before installing the subfloor decking.

Bottom Photo: The subfloor decking should be a tongue-and-groove product. The leading edge of the subfloor decking should be ripped to remove the tongue before installing the decking. If the weight of the log wall sits on the groove in the subfloor decking, the weight of the logs will likely break the groove, and the logs will tend to roll outward. The groove in the subfloor decking will not properly support a log wall and must be removed before installation.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 4

Page: 5

Top Photo: The wood I-beam blocking is installed between the joists on top of all girder beams as well. This blocking acts to keep the joists from twisting. It also creates a solid surface directly above the girder. Support posts for the roof system and second floor system are often located directly above the girder beam.

Blocking should also be installed between joists where support posts will sit. Support posts must not sit on top of the subfloor decking between joists without solid support underneath. The posts will break through the decking as weight is applied. See the diagram below. If a settler jack is to be installed at the bottom of an exposed post, many builders prefer to let the post run through the subfloor decking and to locate the settler jack underneath the subfloor. This eliminates some of the trim work to hide the settler jack. This option will be discussed in greater detail later in this manual, and detailed drawings are located in the Appendix.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 4

Page: 6

Photo: If the girder beam is to be set lower than the joists so the joists will rest on top of the girder, the ends of the girder must be properly supported. This may be accomplished by building a beam pocket into the foundation as shown.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 4

Page: 7

Top Photo: A tripled 2x10 girder beam will typically span less than 8-feet between support piers. If longer spans are needed, larger and/or stronger girder beams will be required. The girder beam should be rated by a structural engineer to be certain that it is strong enough. Most suppliers of steel beams, LVL beams and glue-lam beams can provide this service.

Middle Photo: Different types of beams may be used to form the girder as shown. Any splice in a girder should be occur directly over a post or pier. Your subfloor should be built in accordance with your local building codes, and these codes may not be known to Tennessee Log Homes. It is the responsibility of the Purchaser to see that the home is built in accordance to local building codes.

Bottom Photo: With 2x10 joists, metal cross bracing and/or solid wood blocking should be used to help keep the joists from twisting over time.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 4

Page: 8

Top Photo: Some subfloors can be quirte large with multiple girder beams.

Middle Photo: Flashing is required by many local building codes as a termite shield. The flashing goes under the sill plate.

Bottom Photo: These girders are set so the top of the girder is flush with the top of the sill plate. Wood I-beam joists will be used in long lengths and will pass over the girders.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 4

Page: 9

Top Photo: Pre-manufactured web trusses are ideal for subfloors over a basement. The trusses can be specified to span greater distances, and the space in the truss webbing allows room for mechanical to be run (wiring, plumbing, HVAC, etc.).

Middle Photo: A combination of webtrusses and steel girder beams can greatly reduce or eliminate the need for posts in a basement area.

Bottom Photo: A treated sill plate must be installed on top of the foundation walls and anchored to the foundation with bolts set during foundation installation. The trusses sit on top of the treated sill plate. Most trusses have a notch in the end at the top of the truss to allow a 2x4 or 2x10 member to be set into the notch and to tie all the trusses together laterally. A 2x4 is shown here. This also provides strength under the log walls and a solid member for screws in the first course of logs to grab hold of.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 4

Page: 10

Top Photo: Wide spans over garage doors can be accomplished using steel beams, multiple LVL beams , glue-lam beams or the like. Most manufactureres of such beams can specify the beam size for you.

Middle Photo: The perimeter of a web truss subfloor system is covered with OSB sheathing to give lateral stability to the trusses and tie the trusses together.

Bottom Photo: This photo shows a transition between subfloor and a concrete slab garage floor. The garage slab was built up so its top will be flush with the top of the subfloor. The two floors are different thicknesses, but their tops are flush. The log walls are then able to extend across both types of floors.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 4

Page: 11

Top Photo: Shown here is the transition between a subfloor and a garage floor.

Middle Photo: This photo shows a foundation that was slightly undersize. The framing crew must build the subfloor to be the exact size specified on the blueprints. In this case, the floor overhangs the foundation an inch or two. It is vital that the subfloor be the correct size in order for the pr-cut log wall system to work properly.

Bottom Photo: This photo shows a 2x10 subfloor with doubled 2x10 rim joists around the perimeter. There will be a deck along the back side of this home, so the outer 2x10 rim joist is treated along the deck area. Rim joists under decks and porches are generally not covered with siding and are left exposed. Hence, treated lumber should be used for the outer rim joist as shown.

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Section: 4

Page: 12

Top Photo: Stair wells into the basement generally require that they be framed in with stud walls to support the joists.

Middle Photo: With pre-manufactured web trusses, the trusses are made to accomodate the stair well opening. Stud walls or posts with headers are used to support the trusses around the opening.

Bottom Photo: This photo shows that a chase can be built into the web truss to allow HVAC to be installed. Also shown is the end truss along the edge of the floor. It is installed at the edge to support the log wall above it and to give a solid member to screw the log wall to.

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Section: 4

Page: 13

Top Photo: With any log home subfloor, there must be solid structural members along the entire perimeter of the floor. This supports the logs and give solid wood for the first course of logs to be screwed into.

Middle Photo: A stair well in a 2x10 subfloor is shown here. Doubled 2x10 headers around the stairwell support the joists. Additional support will be added using posts or studwalls under the opening when the stairs are constructed.

Bottom Photo: The L-shaped stairwell shown here is supported with studwalls underneath the floor.

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Section: 4

Page: 14

Top Photo: Even with web trusses, spans are limited. A steel beam was used here to break the span of the trusses without having to use posts. In general, however, there must be at least one post in a home that runs from the footing through all floors and up to the ridge beam of the home.

Middle Photo: Web trusses and steel girders offer the most flexibility over basements.

Bottom Photo: There will usually be solid wood posts on the first floor level of the home. The posts should have a settler jack to allow the second floor and roof to be lowered as the logs settle. In this instance, the settler jack was installed below the subfloor, and the post passes through the subfloor sheathing. Remember that anything above the settler jack will move when the jack is adjusted. If the jack is installed on the bottom of a post, then the post will move when the jack is adjusted. Therefore, anything attached to this post must be done so in a manner that will aloow it to move when the jack is adjusted. Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

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PORCH / DECK CONSTRUCTION: It is best to build decks at the same time the subfloor is built. The decks will provide walk-around areas during the log wall construction. Always use treated wood or the equivalent (cedar, redwood, Trex, etc.) when constructing exterior decks, even if they will have roofs covering them. We recommend the use of joist hangers. Deck joists should be set so the top of the porch decking will be 1 to 2 lower than the house subfloor. A lower deck floor prevents blowing rain and water from seeping under your log walls. In higher snow load areas, you may be required to use larger floor joists, closer spacing, or even glu-lam of other engineered wood products as headers. Check local building codes to see what applies in your area. Porch support footers and piers should be built to the specifications of your local building codes and/or the Tennessee Log Homes specifications in your blueprints, and must be precisely located so that the porch deck and roof are properly supported. Wooden deck support posts that come in contact with the ground must be treated and also located directly under the porch roof support posts. Solid blocking must be built under each porch roof support post if the post will not sit directly over a joist or header. The porch deck alone will not support the weight carried by the porch post.

5/4" TREATED RND EDGE DECKING

2x10 SUBFLOOR JOIST 2X8 TREATED SILL PLATE

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2X8 TREATED PORCH/DECK JOISTS JOIST HANGER

Construction Guide

2X8 TREATED HEADER 2X8 TREATED SILL PLATE

Section: 4

Page: 16

Top Photo: There are many ways to build porch and deck floors. One way is to use concrete piers for support. This photo shows concrete block piers that will eventually be covered with cultured stone.

Middle Photo: This photo shows completed concrete block piers with cultured stone. The deck and subfloor bands of this homew were covered with 1x12 Western Cedar with a 1x3 lip along the bottom edge.

Construction Guide

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Page: 17

Top Photo: This porch sits close to the ground. The floor sits atop 6x6 Treated posts that sit on a concrete footing.

Middle Photo: This photo shows 6x6 treated posts supporting the deck floor. The railing has not yet been installed. The foundation wall uner the deck has been covered with D-log Siding. Posts to support porch floors are generally not included in TLH packaging. Stair stringers and treads are generally not included.

Bottom Photo: The railing used here is likely the least expensive type. 2x6 treated top handrail with 2x2 treated balustrades (or pickets). The deck floor shown is supported by 6x6 treated posts.

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Section: 4

Page: 18

Top Photo: The joists are generally doubled at the perimeter. The joists attach to the subfloor band so that the top of the finished porch floor will be a couple inches lower than the top of the subfloor. Joist hangers or material for a ledger board are generally not included in TLH packaging.

Middle Photo: To lay a continous sill plate across the tops of your piers as shown here is not required and may cause you to run short of material. Generally, only short blocks of treated lumber are on top of each pier.

Bottom Photo: This photo shows an 8foot wide porch floor built with 2x8 treated lumber on 16-inch centers and doubled 2x8 rim joists. This framework is ready for the finish decking.

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Section: 4

Page: 19

Top Photo: Top view of poerch floor framing. Notice the doubled header joists (or rim joists). This is where the porch roof support posts will sit.

Middle Photo: Ready for decking.

Bottom Photo: 2x6 Western Red Cedar is being applied to the porch floor framework. Always use galvanized fasteners (screws or nails) when building your deck. The are many good books on deck building available at larger hardware stores.

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Section: 4

Page: 20

Top Photo: Splices in the doubled header joists whould always fall over a pier as shown here.

Middle Photo: Doubled header joists support much of the porch roof load.

Bottom Photo: It is best to set nail gun pressure lower when nailing soft woods. This prevents the nail from being sunk to deeply into the decking.

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Construction Guide

Section: 4

Page: 21

Top Photo: Manmade decking is often used to cover deck and porch floors. Such products do not require much or any maintenance and will never rot.

Middle Photo: Stair stringers and treads and nosing are generally not included in the deck and porch floor package. You may certainly specify that it be shipped if desired.

Bottom Photo: Round railing posts can be secured using steel anchor cups.

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Construction Guide

Section: 4

Page: 22

Top Photo: Flashing should be used to protect the subfloor band where deck floors join. This may not be needed if the deck is to have a roof over it.

Middle Photo: This deck is partially covered, but blowing rain could seep down the subfloor band. The subfloor band was flashed before the deck was built. Flashing is inexpensive.

Bottom Photo: A sloped drip ledge mad from treated lumber will further help keep water away from the walls and subfloor band.

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Construction Guide

Section: 4

Page: 23

Section 5 Log Wall Systems

1-800-251-9218 www.tnloghomes.com

LOG WALL ERECTION The following table lists many tools and other items commonly used in the construction of log walls. QTY

DESCRIPTION

USE

1 set 2 1 2 1 1 2 1 2 1 2 1 1 1 1 or 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 or 2 1 1 or 2 1 1 1 As req d As req d As req d 1 1 5 1b. 5 lb.

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Construction Guide

Section: 5

Page: 1

A five-person crew will be the most efficient. Two workers are usually required and limited to moving logs onto the subfloor while two or more are needed in actual log wall construction. The final man can run the log insulation, caulk and install all lag screws in the log walls. Do not start the log erection until the subfloor is square and the exact dimensions as specified in the blueprints. Inaccuracies in the subfloor will affect log placement causing the precut package to not fit. Check the squareness of your subfloor by measuring the diagonals. All logs used to construct your precut log wall system are identified with letters and numbers. There are two methods used to label your precut log wall system. The letters and numbers correspond to the Cut Sheet/Log Layout Plan in the blueprints. Check your blueprints to find which method applies to your pre-cut log package. The first method involves a three-digit system. The first number indicates the wall the log is placed in. The second letter represents the course, or vertical location, of the log. The last number indicates the horizontal placement of the log in the course. For example, a log labeled 3-F-2 indicates a log in wall number three; course F, second log in the course. This is the most common method of labeling the logs. The second system, though not used as often, is made up of a two-digit system, consisting of a letter and number. The letter indicates the course, or vertical position of the log. The number indicates the horizontal location of the log in the course. So, a log labeled G-7 is located in course G, seventh log in the course. Placing all A, B, and C logs on the subfloor at this Pop chalk lines on the subfloor before point will speed the log erection process. beginning log placement. The lines mark the location of the interior log wall face. View the cut sheet as if you were Erect log walls keeping the inside face looking at the outside of the log walls, as flush with the chalk line. if standing outside the home, looking inward. The Cut Sheet includes a diagram showing the shape of the log walls and the starting point, always labeled 1-A-1 . The 1-A-1 log will be placed at this point on wall #1. Then log 1-A-2, 1-A-3 and so on, moving around the perimeter of the subfloor in a counter-clockwise fashion as per the cut sheet diagram, until all A logs are placed. The B course is s placed on top of the A course in the same fashion. Before actually placing any logs in position, sweep all debris from the subfloor perimeter. Then pop chalk-lines around the perimeter marking the plumb line for the interior side of the log. Use the following table, illustrations and discussion to determine how far in from the edge of the subfloor to chalk these lines. Different log styles require different insets. When the logs are placed on the subfloor with the interior face flush with Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

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Page: 2

the chalk-lines, all log styles will overhang the subfloor slightly. This is normal and is important, as the overhang produces a drip edge and prevents water from seeping under first course of logs. Log Style 6x8 D 8x8 D 8x8DD 8 Round 6x12 8x12 8x12 D

Distance of Chalk-line from Subfloor Edge 4 6 6 6 4 ½ 6 ½ 6 ½

The rectangle created by the four chalk-lines marks the inside dimensions of the log walls. This rectangle must be perfectly square and exactly the right size. If the subfloor is too large in any dimension, the above chalk-line inset distances will not work. In such a case, the inset for one wall must be increased. If you must make this correction, do it on a wall that is under a porch roof if possible. If the subfloor is too small in any dimension, the above chalk-line inset distances will not work. One inset will have to be decreased, and the logs will further overhang the subfloor.

Diagram: Once the subfloor band and joists are constructed, check all floors for squarness. If the floor is racked it can be shifted in the appropriate direction to help get the floor square. SQUARE THE FLOOR BEFORE PUTTING ON YOUR SUBFLOOR SHEATHING. Once the sheathing is installed, the floor cannot be shifted. The log home subfloor must be square. The diagonal measurements should be within 1/4" of each other. Otherwise, adjustments must be made to the subfloor to "square it up".

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Section: 5

Page: 3

Before beginning construction, the first course of full logs may need to have the grooves on the bottom of the logs filled with OSB strips to provide a flat surface on the bottom of the log. To do this, rip pieces of 7/16-inch OSB about 3/4-inch wide and tack into grooves. This creates a flat surface on the bottom of the log. Some log styles may use You will need to fill the grooves on the bottom of the first course of logs to create a flat surface. To do this, rip 7/16 OSB to approximately 3/4 wide strips and tack into the grooves. This creates a flat surface on the bottom of the first course of logs.

a flat bottom log, in which case the strips in the grooves will not be necessary. The purpose of this is to prevent a groove from being too close to the subfloor edge. if the edge of the floor lines up with the empty groove, it could cause the log to tip or roll outward. The filled groove eliminates this potential. After the chalk-lines are properly placed and before installing any logs, you should consider your electrical plan. You may request a proposed Electrical Plan from our drafting department when ordering blueprints. The location of any outlets in the log walls should be marked on the subfloor with a pencil inside the chalk-lines around the subfloor perimeter. Common outlets to be located include electrical receptacle outlets, cable TV and telephone wiring. Only those outlets in log walls need to be marked at this time. Electrical and other outlets in log walls require drilling a one-inch or larger hole through the subfloor and first two or three courses of logs so wiring may be brought to the outlet box from underneath the house. Once chalk-lines are in place and the electrical outlet locations are marked, find the log labeled 1-A-1 . Check its length to the length given on the Cut Sheet (see Cut Sheet examples at the end of this section). If in the instance of a butt-and-pass corner as with the 6x8 and 8x8 D-Log, the 1A-1 log may be a butt log or a pass log. The pass log will overhang the subfloor as shown below. However, a butt log will not overhang the subfloor. In this case, the butt log will butt up to the last wall laid, or will be placed flush with the chalk-line for the last wall in course A. Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

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Use the table below to determine the amount of overhang required for the particular log style being used: *View from outside looking in Log Size Saddle Notch Corners Dovetail Corners Butt & Pass

Overhang Amount Needed From Left Hand Side 8 2 Pass Log Overhangs 8 Butt Log Inset Width of Log minus 1 ½

Always place the log so that interior face is flush with the chalk-line for that wall. Do not screw the lags into the logs until the entire course is laid out and square. You should, however, toenail logs down and together during placement. Always use a 4 -0 level to be sure each log is plumb as you are nailing. NEVER nail a log into place without being sure it is plumb and level. If in the instance of a saddle notch corner, as with the 6x8 D-Log, 8x8 D-Log, 8x12 D-Log, and 8 Round Log, the 1-A-1 Log may be a half log or a full log with a saddle notch cut into it. If the 1-A-1 Log is a full log, check the cut sheet (log layout sheet) to find the number of the last log in Course A (a half log) of the last wall. This half log will be laid first and the 1-A-1 Log will be placed over it. All logs with saddle notch corners will overhang the subfloor by 8 inches. Therefore, place the 1-A-1 Log so that its end is overhanging the subfloor by 8 inches. Always place the logs so that the interior face is flush with the chalk-line for that wall. Do not screw the lags into the logs until the entire course is laid out and square. You should, however, toenail logs down and together during placement. If in the instance of a Dovetail Corner , as with the 6x12 and 8x12 Log patterns, the 1-A-1 Log may be a half log or a full log. If the 1-A-1 Log is a full log, check the cut sheet (log layout sheet) to find the number of the last log in course A (a half log) in the last wall. This half log will be laid first, and the 1-A-1 Log will be laid over it. All logs with dovetail corners, will overhang the subfloor by 2 inches therefore, place the 1-A-1 Log, whether it is a half log or whole log, so that its end overhangs the subfloor 2 inches. Always place the logs so that the interior face is flush with the chalk-line for that wall. Do not screw the lags into the logs until the entire course is laid out and square. You should, however, toenail logs down and together during placement. The above log has two 3/8 wide caulk Once the 1-A-1 Log is in its proper place, find beads. The dovetail spline can be wrapped in insulation, if desired, before Log 1-A-2. Apply two 1/4 to 1/2 beads of caulk installing. The adhesive insulation (provided) to the right hand end of 1-A-2 (viewing stripping should be placed as shown on from outside of house), one bead on each side of the the tongues on the top of each log. spline cut vertically as shown below. Place Log 1A-2 to the right of Log 1-A-1 (viewing from outside Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 5

Page: 5

of house). Make sure the inside face of 1-A-2 is flush with the chalk-line and that the left hand is tightly butted to 1-A-1. Once 1-A-2 is properly placed, toenail 1-A-2 to 1-A-1 in the tongues on top of the log using 8 penny galvanized nails. Also, toenail the right hand end of 1-A-2 to the floor. Continue this process of log placement until you have completed the first course. Remember to keep the interior face of the logs flush with the chalk-line. ALWAYS USE A LEVEL TO MAKE SURE EACH LOG IS PLUMB AND LEVEL BEFORE TOENAILING THE LOG INTO PLACE. Pay close attention to the location of doors and windows. Leave the proper distance for door and window openings as shown on the cut sheet. For example, if, after placing Log 1-A-2, the Cut Sheet shows a door opening measuring 3 6 , you simply skip a space exactly 3 6 before placing Log 1-A3. Once the first course is completely laid out and is square and flush with chalk-lines, you are ready to screw the lags into the logs. Logs are predrilled for 3/8 lags, in which case you simply use one fastener every 30 with a washer provided. The holes are countersunk, so screw the fastener all the way in so it is flush with or below the top surface of the log between the tongues & grooves. If a screw is required where there is no predrilled hole, you should drill a hole before placing the lag screw into the log. You should not use a lag screw in every pre-drilled hole. Lags are to be placed every 30 or so. The additional holes are placed for your convenience in case a lag screw lands directly on top of another or the log is bowed and extra pulling power is required. Carefully inspect each log to see that it is flat on the floor over its entire length. If at any point there is an upward bow in the log, more fasteners should be applied to the bowed area to bring it down flat. After the course is fastened down completely, you should place the dovetail splines in the spline cuts at the butt joints of the logs. The splines should be wrapped in insulation. Also the empty spline cut may be half-filled with liquid foam before inserting spline. Once the splines are in place, the first course should be drilled for electrical outlets. Go to your marks on the subfloor where your outlets Every course of logs should will be. Measure from the interior face of the log be toenailed with galvanized toward the center the proper depth of your outlet 16 penny nails, checking the butt joints and overall boxes. Center your drill bit at this point and drill fit of each course. Make it is plumb, square and through the log and subfloor. A minimum one-inch sure level. The lags should then installed in the course. auger is recommended. Use a pencil to lightly mark be If the first course is not prethe interior face of the log as to the center of your drilled, use the black selfdrilling screws. These hole. This will help you line up your holes when screws are used on the first course to help insure that the screw drives into the subfloor rim joists or a subfloor main joist. Make sure your screws drive into solid wood.

Dovetail splines should be placed in the spline cuts in the end of the logs. Splines should be wrapped with 2 rounds of log gasket insulation before inserting into spline cut. Use both hands to compress the insulation just before inserting spline. The gasket will then expand to fill the spline notch.

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you drill through the second course. After all drilling is complete (VERY IMPORTANT NOT TO MISS ANY), use a broom to thoroughly clean all sawdust and debris off the top of the first course so the second course will sit down properly. Once done, apply the adhesive foam insulation on top of the tongues on the top of the first course of logs. This will complete the installation of the first course. Remember to lap the log wall insulation wherever the roles end. This will prevent air leaks from between the courses of logs. You are now ready to install the second course of logs. Again, lay out the entire course and square up before lagging down. Use caulking as before and toenail logs down and together. Leave space for door and window openings as with the first course. Be certain to keep walls plumb by using string lines and a 4-foot level. Once the entire course is in place and square, screw in the lags. Then install the dovetail splines as before. Next, drill the electrical holes as with the previous course. Refer to the following diagrams as to the exact location of outlet boxes for each log style. Check your local building codes to see that outlets are the minimum height required. Cutting out the boxes will be discussed later. At this point, you should be informed of what to do if a log is missing. This rarely happens, but it could. All precut log packages include two extra logs. If a log is missing or damaged, use the extra logs (labeled extra ) to make a log of the proper length. This will require you to cut the log to length by making two cuts with a circular saw or by using a chain saw. Make sure the cuts are square. Also, use the circular saw and a chisel to make the spline cuts. Another option would be to find another log with matching specifications to use in place of the missing log. For example, if you are missing 2-B2, chances are that 2-C-2, 2-D-2, 2-E-2, or etc... may have the same dimensions and cuts. Go ahead and use the replacement. Chances are that the missing log will be found in another bundle of logs and can be used later. If you need assistance, call us at 1800-251-9218. Repeat the aforementioned log placement process in the order specified. Keep each course plumb and square. It is very important to closely check the log walls to ensure they are plumb, level, straight and square. Check these parameters as each Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

It is very important to mark the location of any outlets to be located in log walls. Lightly mark the interior face of the log in pencil. Be sure to check local codes before beginning any electrical work. You may need to contact a licensed electrician for any electrical work.

Construction Guide

Outlets in the log walls require wiring run from under the subfloor, up through channels drilled in the log walls. The channel should be a minimum of one inch in diameter through the two bottom courses of logs and the subfloor. It is good to use an auger long enough to go through two courses and the subfloor. Be sure to mark the location of outlets lightly on the surface of the log to properly align them. It is good to ream out the channel with the auger to clean out all the shavings so wiring can be pushed through with little resistance.

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It may be necessary to use a razor knife to clean the edges of the notches on the logs before beginning construction.

Use a long, auger type bit with a minimum diameter of one inch to drill through logs and subfloor for electrical wiring. All outlet locations should be marked lightly on the face of the log.

course is installed. Use 2x4 s to brace walls, comealong s or whatever is necessary to keep walls plumb and square. Use your 4 level and string lines to keep log walls straight. Do not allow log walls to bow in or out. You should also check on the diagonal measurements of the home as the courses go up.

2x Bracing

Use a four foot level to check that the walls are plumb. Check each course before beginning a new one. Keep the log walls braced off if necessary. For instance, nail 2x4 s into the log ends at window openings, then attach to a block nailed to the subfloor. This holds this section of the wall in place.

Use 2x bracing to support the log walls during erection. This will prevent the walls from bowing in or out during the stacking of upper courses.

TIP: Use a good level. Do not use a plastic level than can bend in its middle. For $50 to $75, one may buy a high quality 4-foot level. Keeping the log walls plumb as they go upis important. Use 2x bracing at doorways and winow openings in long walls to keep walls plumb. This is critical to make the header course over the doors and windows fit well. ALWAYS USE GALVANIZED NAILS

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Top Photo: Logs should be tonailed with 8 or 10 penny galvanized nails. These nails are used to help adjust the plumb of the log and to hold it into place until the log is lagged down tight. Use two nails on each side of the notch (inside - outside), one nail over each tongue. Hammer the nails in. Then check the plumb of the log. The nails on one side or the other of the notch can be hit again with the hammer to finely adjust the plumb of the wall.

Middle Photo: Toe-nailing the logs as they go up is important. The toneails can be used to finely adjust each course and to hold that course in place until lagged down. There should be two nails on the inside and two nails on the outside of each notch. These should be 8 or 10 penny GALVANIZED nails. There should also be two nails used at the but end of the log (see below).

Bottom Photo: Use two GALVANIZED nails, one on each side of the notch in the end of the log. Angle these through the bottom corner of the log and into the course below. Use a good level and hammer to finely adjust the position of the log using the toenails to secure it into that position until it is lagged down tight.

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Page: 9

Top Photo: Once a course is down and secure, use a wisk broom to clean the top of the logs from all debris. The top of the log should be a clean surface before installing the foam gasket and caulk for the next course. If augering has ben done for electrical, remove all sawdust and wood chips. Install foam gasket as shown. With most saddle notches, the notch will be cut loose enough to wrap the foam gasket around through the notch as shown.

Middle Photo: Apply a generous bead of caulk on top of the two strips of gasket inside the saddle notch. This helps form a good seal under the saddle notch. Finish caulking should be used months later after construction is complete. See more about this in later chapters.

Bottom Photo: Before setting the next log, always check its bottom side for debris. Sometimes rocks can be pressed into the bottom of the log from the forklift handling. This rock could prevent the log from setting down correctly in the log wall.

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Top Photo: Lower the saddle notch end downward first and gently lay log in place.

Middle Photo: At butt joints, use two generous beads of caulk in a vertical fashion, one each side of notch in the log end.

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Bottom Photo: Where two logs butt together, the notches form a bow-tie shaped mortise. The wooden bow-tie shaped spline will be inserted to seal the joint. Each spline should be wrapped with two strips of gasket foam. The foam should be squeezed well before putting it in the notch. The squeezing will compress the foam momentarily so that it will fit in the notch without tearing. The foam will expand inside the spline notch to its original size before compression. The combination of the wrapped spline and the caulking (see above) will seal the joint well. DO NOT LEAVE OUT ANY SPLINES. HALF LOGS MAY REQUIRE A HALF SPLINE. YOU SHOULD CUT A SPLINE IN HALF FOR THIS PURPOSE. IF YOU LEAVE OUT A SPLINE, YOU WILL GET AIR INFILTRATION AND MAY EVEN SEE DAYLIGHT THROUGH THE SPLICE.

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Top Photo: Logs with dovetail corners will generally not require gasket material inside the notch - Caulking Only - These notches are generally too tight for gasket material.

Middle Photo: A Â&#x201C;PersuaderÂ&#x201D; sized hammer may also be used to properly position logs and walls. use the type hammer that will not mark the logs, or put a block againt your target and hit the block to move the log.

Bottom Photo: When the walls get about half-way up, they should be braced with 2x material to help keep them straight and plumb.

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Section: 5

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2x Bracing

Top Photo: Use 2x material to brace log walls at window and door openings. This will help keep the walls plumb until you tie the walls together with the fullheader course above the door and window openings.

Use 2x bracing to support the log walls during erection. This will prevent the walls from bowing in or out during the stacking of upper courses.

Middle Photo: This crew is nearing the header course of logs that tie the walls together above door and window openings. The walls should be plumbed and braced off well with 2x lumber before installing the header course.

Bottom Photo: This shows that the header course and top course of logs have been installed.

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Page: 13

Top Photo: The header course of logs just above the window and door openings tie the walls together.

Middle Photo: Some window and door openings may need to be trimmed out to allow the unit to fit and to have settling space above it.

Bottom Photo: Some homes will have two full stories of logs.

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Top Photo: Some log wall systems are quite complex. It is TLHÂ&#x2019;s desire to manufacture each log according to the specifications in the log wall cut-sheet in your blueprints. However, mistakes can occur. TLH always sends several extra logs in case of some error. Usually, your builder can use these extras to correct any error. If an error occurs, please report it to the Drafting Department at 1-800-251-9218.

Middle Photo: There can be many corners in todayÂ&#x2019;s log homes and multiple stories of logs.

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Top Photo: It is important to follow the fundamental of log stacking throughout the entire log wall installation.

Middle Photo: Log walls can have interior corners. The notches are caulked and sealed as previously described. However, all corners should be laced with finish caulking after the home has settled a bit.

Bottom Photo: Log walls can have an opposing wall passing through it.

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Section: 5

Page: 16

Top Photo: When a log wall is long and has a high percentage of glass in the log wall and above the log wall, it is best to install a wall stiffener. A 3x12 plank can be laid down on top of the log wall and lagged into place using a zigzag screw pattern. The gable end studwall above the log wall can be built on top of the wall siffener plank.

Middle Photo: The protuding plank can be disguised as a shelf for nicnacs when the home is finished.

Scenario No. 3 4x8 Second floor joists are notched in to the top course of logs and rest on top of the 6x12 girder beam. This method usually requires an extra course of logs to yield the same 8Â&#x2019;0Â&#x201D; ceiling height as the other methods.

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Top Photo: Some homes will have enough courses of logs to notch the second floor beams into the log course. If this is the plan, it is easiest to make the notches before actuall setting the log.

Construction Guide

Section: 5

Page: 17

Middle Photo: The top course of logs was inspected and measured to make sure it would fit properly. The notch locations were determined using the second floor joist layout in the blueprints. The logs were notched before being set into position. This topic is discussed at length in the next section on second floor systems.

Top Photo: The log wall system is usually wrapped and spacers are banded to the bottom of the bundle. The wrap should be saved to cover other materials during construction.

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Construction Guide

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Page: 18

Top Photo: Remember, the log walls are designed to fit the subfloor size on your blueprints. They are to slightly overhang the subfloor.

Middle Photo: The subfloor band is generally covered with siding or finish lumber. Areas under porches and decks are generally not sided. These areas should have a treated outer band member. The siding will tuck under the lip of the log wall as it overhangs the subfloor. This creates a drip edge so water will not seep under the first course of logs. The seam formed where the first course sits on the floor should be generously caulked before applying the band siding.

Bottom Photo: The overhang creates a lip for the band siding to tuck under. Notice the solid wood strips were installed in the grooves in the bottom of the first course of logs. The strips were stopped at the edge of the floor so as not to show on the end of the log. Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

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Section: 5

Page: 19

Section 6 Second Floor Systems

1-800-251-9218 www.tnloghomes.com

SECOND FLOOR SYSTEM Read this entire section before beginning any phase of second floor installation. Check your Materials List (copy in blueprints and in warranty packet) to determine the size and length of floor joists and girder beams shipped. Be certain to use the proper length for each application as specified on the Materials List. Study the blueprints, as they should be the determining factor as to proper installation of the second floor system. Determine how your second floor joists will be installed. There are basically four alternatives. 1. Let second-floor joists rest on top of log walls and on top of girder. Most common method. 2. Let second-floor joists rest on top of log walls and notch into girder. Good for raising height of center girder beam. Check your local building codes for compliance. 3. Notch second-floor joists into top course of logs and rest on top of girder. Usually requires extra courses of logs to yield 8-foot ceiling height. 4. Notch second-floor joists into top course of logs and into girder. Usually require extra courses of logs to yield same 8-foot ceiling height. Check your local building codes for compliance. If you plan to use notches, Scenario No. 1 check your blueprints and read 4x8 Second floor joists rest on top of log walls through this entire section carefully and on top of the 6x12 girder beam. This is the scenario explained in this manual. It is to determine where to locate the the most common method of construction. joists in relation to the girder and 4x8 Floor Joists top log course. It is best to notch the girder and top course of logs before installation. Log Wall The remaining instructions on second floor system installation will be based on Scenario No. 1 4x8 Floor Joists where second-floor joists will rest 6x12 Girder Beam on top of the log walls and on top of the girder beam, as this is the most common method employed by our customers. The first step in installing second floor systems is to mark the top course of logs as to the locations of all rafters and secondfloor joists. It is vital that you closely follow your blueprints throughout this procedure and let the blueprints be the determining factor as to rafter and joist location. Scenario No. 2 Notice that the end logs on 4x8 Second floor joists are notched into the 6x12 girder beam and rest on top of the top course extend beyond the the log wall. Although this is a good way log wall corner, more than any to raise the height of the center girder beam, check local codes for compliance other logs. This extension is before beginning to notch the beam. designed to support the end roof Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 6

Page: 1

rafter. The first rafter will sit on Scenario No. 3 4x8 Second floor joists are notched in to the top course of the very end of the extended log of logs and rest on top of the 6x12 girder beam. This method usually requires an extra course of logs to yield the same 8 the top log course. This rafter is 0 ceiling height as the other methods. called the barge rafter and will serve as the roof overhang support. Its outer edge should be flush with the outer end of the extended log. For the second rafter location, check your blueprints for the rafter spacing required for your home. For the sake of discussion we will use 48 on center ( O.C. ) Measure along the top log course the specified rafter spacing distance measuring from the outside edge of the barge rafter location. This spot marks the location of the edge of the second rafter. Second-floor joist locations should now be marked in like fashion. Check your blueprints for spacing (for the sake of discussion, 24 O.C.) The first joist should sit flush with the inside face of the end log wall as shown below. The second joist location should be marked immediately next to the Scenario No. 4 second rafter location previously 4x8 floor joists are notched into the extra top course of logs and into the marked. The third joist will be 6x12 girder beam. Check local codes for compliance before beginning marked 24 inches further down and to notch any beams or logs. should be halfway between rafter #2 and rafter #3. The fourth joist will then be marked 24 inches further down and will be located immediately next to the third rafter, rafter #3. To further clarify, if rafters are on 4-foot centers and joists are on 2-foot centers, then every other joist will sit next to a rafter. The rafters and joists will then be fastened to the log wall and to each other giving great structural stability to the home. To install rafters and joists in any other fashion may compromise the stability of the home and is not recommended. The second floor joists will sit on the log wall on one end, and on a 6 x12 girder beam toward the center of the house. The girder beam will run perpendicular to the floor joists and will be supported on one end by a post. The other end will notch into the end log wall. Before actually installing any framing for the second floor system, you may find it best to clean, sand and stain the beams. The next step in second floor installation is to determine the exact location of the girder beam and adjustable support posts from the blueprints. Once determined and doublechecked, cut a three-inch deep notch into the top course or courses of the end log wall for one end of your girder beam to rest in. Locate a post under the other end and brace girder so it will stand alone. Join the next girder (if applicable) to the end of the first using the Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 6

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After installing the 6x12 girder beam and the 4x8 floor joists, the second floor system will be covered with 2x6 tongue & groove decking. It is at this point, before installing the second floor decking that wiring for overhead first floor lighting, etc. be recessed into the tops of the 4x8 floor joists, as shown here. Check local codes for compliance.

Posts with a screw jack assembly, either on top or underneath support the 6x12 girder beam. A post must be beneath a splice in the girder beam. Exposed posts are made from a solid wood 6x6, while posts which will be hidden in a wall are made from four 2x4 s. Hidden posts will be encased in a floating studwall built under the girder, as shown here.

splicing and fastening methods shown. Keep the center girder beam square with the house. Posts and splices must be precisely located as per the blueprints over foundation piers so the second floor will be supported all the way through the foundation. Furthermore, make sure there is solid wood blocking under the plywood subfloor deck where the support post sits. This blocking also must be supported by solid, rigid posts or piers all the way through to the pier footings as indicated on your foundation plan. Make sure that the final posts installed under the 6x12 2x nailers will be girder beams are adjustable placed next to the floor joists to nail the so the center of the second trim to. The wiring is also shown here, floor may be lowered to as it will run behind compensate for log the trim through a hole drilled through settlement. All Tennessee the 4x8 joists. Log Homes second floor systems include screw jack assemblies, 6x6 s or 8 Round and/or 2x4 s with which you may construct The second floor system pictured here is the one adjustable posts. The described in this manual. It is the most common method of installation. The 4x8 floor joists sit screw jack assembly 2x pieces are installed as on top of the log walls and join on top of the should be placed on the nailers for 6x12 girder beam. The 2x6 tongue & groove trim boards bottom of exposed posts. used to decking is nailed to the top of the floor joists enclose the and acts as the ceiling of the first floor. The cavity above This makes trimming the the girder. first floor joist should sit flush with the log wall. post easier. On a post Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

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constructed in a stud wall, the screw jack assembly should be placed on top of the post. This allows the screw jack to be lowered without the potential to damage sheet rock, dry wall, or other finish material applied to the wall. For detailed information on log settlement, see the section on Interior Partition Walls later in this manual. Once all girder beams are installed, properly supported and braced-off, mark off the locations of the second-floor joists on top of the girder. Make certain that the joist locations on the girder correspond to the locations previously marked on the log walls. You are now ready to begin cutting the floor joists to length and installing. The joists will run from the center of the girder to near the exterior of the log wall. They will not run all the way out to the edge, however, and should be inset approximately 1 . This inset is left so that a piece of 7/16 OSB sheathing and log profile siding may later be used to cover the ends of the joists (snow-blocking). To precisely determine the amount of inset needed, actually fit a piece of siding on top of the log wall. Make sure the exterior face of the siding matches that of the log wall, and then measure the inset. The length of the joist, therefore, is measured from this point of inset back to the center of the girder beam. Using this measurement cut one joist and make sure it fits properly. Get a measurement for each joist before cutting. Chisel away the tongues on top of the log where the joists will sit. Joists and rafters should sit on the log top, not on the tongues. Joists should be fastened to the log wall by drilling a 3/8-inch hole through the joist and using 3/8 x12 lags to fasten the joist to the log. Joists butting together over the girder should be joined together using metal strapping and fastened down by screwing a 3/8 x12 lag screw through the joist into the log wall. After the girder and joists are properly installed, you should again consider your electrical system. Wiring for overhead lights, fans, etc. (under the second floor) and switches need to be run now, before the second floor decking is installed. You should have your electrician present to supervise this installation. Wiring should be run along the top of the second-floor joists by recessing the wiring into the top of the beams. Use a router or a chain saw to cut the recesses. Also, holes should be drilled vertically through the beams to bring wiring down through for overhead lighting underneath. Be certain that all wiring needed is run in this manner before installing

6x12 GIRDER BEAM

4X8 FLOOR JOISTS

Before installing the 2x6 tongue and groove second floor decking, be sure that wiring for overhead first floor lighting, etc. is recessed into the tops on the 4x8 floor joists.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 6

Page: 4

your second floor decking. Check the lengths of 2x6 tongue & groove decking you received with your package. If you receive any 10 or 14 lengths, use these for second floor decking, saving any 8 , 12 and 16 for roofing. 10 and 14 lengths work with joists on 2 centers, but not with rafters on 4 centers. Begin to move decking onto the subfloor and prepare for installation. The 2x6 tongue &groove decking should not be installed within 2 feet of the front and rear log walls until the roof rafters are installed. The roof rafters will pass through the plane of the second floor decking and sit on the top of log walls. If you install decking all the way out, you will not have room to install the rafters on top of the log wall. Rafters are not to sit on top of the second floor system. You may complete the second floor decking installation once the house rafters are installed. In the case of a shed dormer, however, the rafters will sit on top of the shed dormer stud wall. The shed dormer stud wall will sit on top of the decking of the second floor. Therefore, complete the second floor decking installation where the shed dormer will be constructed. Install the tongue & groove decking with 16 penny-coated nails by toe nailing the tongues of each piece to each joist. Be especially careful not to nail into any wiring recessed in the top of your second floor joists. Keep the second floor decking covered with plastic sheeting until the roof system is completed. It is very important to keep kiln-dried tongue & groove products as dry as possible.

WHEREVER POSSIBLE, FLOOR JOISTS AND RAFTERS WILL BE FASTENED TO THE LOG WALL AND TO EACH OTHER

4X8 HOUSE RAFTER 4X8 SECOND FLOOR JOIST

4 3 2 1

7/16" OSB SHEATHING TYVEK HOUSE WRAP

48" 48" 4 2 1

24"

OUTSIDE EDGE OF BARGE RAFTER FLUSH WITH END OF EXTENDED LOG.

FLOOR JOISTS AND RAFTERS INSET APPROX. 3/8 TO ALLOW FOR PORCH KNEE WALL SIDING

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

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Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 6

Page: 6

YP 24" T

JOISTS AND RAFTERS INSET APROX. 1" TO ALLOW SIDING TO FIT OVER END OF SECOND FLOOR JOISTS FOR SNOWBLOCKING

RAFTERS AND JOISTS SHOULD BE FASTENED TOGETHER AT ALL POSSIBLE INTERVALS, GIVING GREATER STRUCTURAL STABILITY TO THE LOG WALLS.

6x12 GIRDER BEAM

4X8 FLOOR JOISTS 24" O.C. (TYP)

4X8 RAFTERS 48" O.C. (TYP)

M A E

B 2 1

JOIST STRAPPING

M A E

ADJUSTABLE SCREW JACK ASSEMBLY

16d NAILS

B 2 1

3/8"X4" LAG SCREW BY OWNER

4-2X4 STUDS

SPLICES IN 6X12 BEAM SHOULD BE PLACED DIRECTLY ON AN ADJUSTABLE POST. THIS IS THE ONLY ACCEPTABLE METHOD TO SPLICE THE BEAM. 6X12 BEAM ADJUSTABLE POST (SCREW JACK) ASSEMBLY

JOIST STRAPPING 6X12 BEAM 3/4"X4" LAGS (BY OWNER)

4-2X4 STUDS Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

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Top Photo: It is always best to clean and sand your beams before installing them. Invariably, beams will have marks from manufacturing and handling that will need to be removed by cleaning and/or sanding. It is easier to do this while the beams are on the ground.

Middle Photo: It is also a good idea to use a router or sander to ease the edges of the joists. This removes the sharp corner edges and creates a nice look. This should be done before the joists are installed.

Bottom Photo: Most joists are secured with a lag screw anchored vertically in each end of the joist. These holes should be pre-drilled before installation. The lags are usually 3/8-inch diameter, so a 1/2-inch diameter hole is sufficient. A 1-inch diameter countersink hole should be made with a butterfly bit in the top of each lag screw hole. This allows the head of the lag to be sunk below the top surface of the joist.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

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Section: 6

Page: 8

Top Photo: A template may be made from plywood that allows a router to cut the outside lines of the notches for the joists.

Middle Photo: Once the perimeter of the notch is cut with the router, a hammer and chisel is used to create the rest of the notch.

Bottom Photo: The edges of the joists may be eased with a router to match the shape of the notch.

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Construction Guide

Section: 6

Page: 9

Top Photo: There will usually be a center 6x12 girder beam running perpindicular to the second floor joists. The joists will generally break on the girder beam. One end of the girder will generally notch into the end log wall. The Â&#x201C;beam pocketÂ&#x201D; notch should be located according to the blueprints. Always verify the blueprint dimensions. Actual field measurements may vary.

Middle Photo: A saw, hammer and chisel are used to create the beam pocket.

Bottom Photo: The beam pocket is cut to the correct depth so as to regulate the height of the beam (its vertical position). Once the beam is set, it is to be lagged into the log wall . Use a long lag screw in a pre-drilled hole with deep countersinking. Make sure the lag goes 3-inches deep into the bottom of the beam pocket. The beam should set into the log wall three-inches.

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Construction Guide

Section: 6

Page: 10

Top Photo: The girder beam is set into place and positioned properly on the subfloor. One end of the beam sits in the beam pocket cut into the log wall, and the other end is supported by an adjustable post. The log wall and beam pocket can settle, so the post on the other end of the beam must be adjustable. There must be solid blocking under the post in the subfloor and down to the foundation. Middle Photo: The post is braced-off using 2x bracing. The bottom of the post is secure. Notching a girder beam may require a larger beam. A notched 6x12 beam should have short spans (less than 8-foot spans). Structural Analysis of a specific home has usually not been done unless a Structural Engineer was obtained by the home owner to give such analysis. However, the materials provided generally meet most local codes. The homeowner/builder is responsible for knowing and following the local code. It is also their responsibility to note such local requirements to TLH during the design phase. Bottom Photo: Screw jacks usually mount on the bottom of exposed solid wood posts. Screw jacks usually mount on the top of posts built from 2x material and are located within a studwall. Rule of Thumb: Anything above the screw jack will move when the floor is lowered. Therefore, so as not to bind studwalls and sheetrock, screw jacks within a studwall generally moun on top. It is easiest with exposed posts to mount the screw jack underneat the post. Do not attach anything to the post, as the post will move downward when the jacks are adjusted. The post is ABOVE THE JACK. Anything above the jack moves when adjusted. Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

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Top Photo: The next step is to run a string line from corner to corner of the side log walls. The second framing should be squared at this point with the log walls.

Middle Photo: The log walls can have a bow or a lean in them, especially if not properly braced during erection of the log walls.

Bottom Photo: The string line is held off the log wall 1-1/2-inches at the corners by using a standard 2x block. The wall is checked down its length to be straight with the string line.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 6

Page: 12

Top Photo: Walls are adjusted where required. There are many ways to do the....use 2x bracing to apply pressure at specific points. Also, you can use a Â&#x201C;comealongÂ&#x201D; hand winch. Anything to give a push or pull to adjust the plumb and straightness of the walls. This wall needs to go in a bit.

Middle Photo: This wall needs to go out.

Bottom Photo: 2x material can be used to secure the position of the log walls and the end of the girder beam post. Once the log walls are plumb and square with the center girder beam, the joists may be installed.

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Above Photo: Once all notches are cut, and the walls are plumbed, the prepared floor joists just drop into place. There may be no trim work needed when second floors are built in this Â&#x201C;notchedinÂ&#x201D; fashion.

Top Photo: The joists fit tightly into the log wall on one end and the girder beam on the other. Lag screws are mounted vertically on each end of the joist to secure the joist into postion. This also locks the opposing log walls together at their top.

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Construction Guide

Section: 6

Page: 14

Top Photo: Once joists are set, one should again think of overhead lighting and other wiring needed. Wiring can be run in channels in the tops of the beams. This must be done before applying the 2x6 T&G decking.

Middle Photo: A chain saw or router can be used to create the channels for wiring.

Bottom Photo: Joints in the 2x6 T&G decking should break over a joist. Although the decking is the highest grade available, it is a decking product. This is not finished flooring. Most log home owners will use this decking as the finished floor, however. Don t expect a decking to perform like finished flooring. Be careful not to nail into wiring.

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Section: 6

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Top Photo: When joists sit on top of the log wall andon top of the girder beam, a cavity is formed. This is called the snow-block area. The area will generally need to be closed up. 2x blocks are generally used for framing up the snowblock area. The area will generally be covered with a finish board or siding.

Middle Photo: The snowblock area can be a good place to run wiring.

Bottom Photo: The snowblock area should be stuffed full of BAT insulation before being closed up.

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Section: 6

Page: 16

Top Photo: When there is a bathroom above the exposed beam second floor, the plumbing may need to be built into a dropped ceiling area so it may be hidden.

Middle Photo: These boxed in areas may cover the whole room as shown above, or smaill cavities may be boxed in.

Bottom Photo: Shown here is the bottom of a bath tub on the left and a toilet on the right. These will be enclosed within a studwall and a boxed in area.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 6

Page: 17

Above Photo: Second floor systems can be pre-cut at the TLH factory. The beam can be notched with dovetailed and wedged notches that are self-tightening. The top course of logs will have the same type notches. All edges of the beams will be champhered or eased. All splices in the girder beam will also have a male and female notch at the splice to lock the two beams together over a post. Bottom Photo: The log walls are tied together by the second floor beam work. The special pre-cut notches lock the walls and beams together laterally. Even the stair cas can be pre-cut as shown.

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Page: 18

Top Photo: Special blocking may be made on site or pre-cut at the factory. Notice all exposed posts have the screw jack at the bottom. All gang-stud type posts that will be in a studwall have their jacks at the top.

Bottom Photo: Round posts may be used uner girder beams. These posts may double as decorative columns. All posts supporting second floor systems should sit on top of solid blocking in the subfloor and down to the foundation.

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Page: 19

Top Photo: Round posts support the second floor, then continue on above the second floor to support the roof system.

Middle Photo: Second floor joists may cantilever several feet beyond the girder if desired.

Top Photo: Check with your local code for the amount of cantilever allowed.

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Construction Guide

Section: 6

Page: 20

Section 7 Roof Systems

1-800-251-9218 www.tnloghomes.com

ROOF SYSTEM INSTALLATION The roof system discussed herein is a Premier Roof System as opposed to a conventional roof system. Premier Roof Systems consist of 3x12 ridge beams, 4x8 rafters and collars, 2x6 tongue & groove decking, 30-pound felt vapor barrier, vented roof insulation panels, 7/16 OSB and 6 screws. Air entryways will be incorporated to allow for roof ventilation. The following sketch illustrates the Premier Roof System:

30# ROOFING FELT VAPOR BARRIER LAYER #2 OVER OSB SHEATHING, UNDER FINISHED ROOFING (BY OWNER)

2x6 TONGUE & GROOVE DECKING 30# ROOFING FELT VAPOR BARRIER LAYER #1 UNDER ISOVENT PANELS 3x12 RIDGE BEAM

4x8 RAFTERS AND COLLAR TIES 48" O.C.

INSULATION PANEL with wood strips 1x FASCIA DORMER STUD WALL 7/16" OSB SHEATHING SCREWED DOWN WITH GALVANIZED SCREWS 30# ROOFING FELT VAPOR BARRIER LAYER #2 OVER OSB SHEATHING, UNDER FINISHED ROOFING (BY OWNER)

2X6 BLOCKING

RIGID INSULATION PANELS WITH WOOD STRIPS (16 o.c. )AND SCREWS TO SECURE TO 2X DECKING LAYER

2x6 TONGUE & GROOVE DECKING

HOUSE ROOF FRAMING To begin installation of the Premier Roof System, first check the blueprints and lay out the roof rafter location by marking the top of the logs with a pencil (see the previous section SECOND FLOOR SYSTEM for detailed instructions). If a shed dormer is to be built, do so before rafter installation and brace off with 2x4 s. The wall should sit on top of the decking of the second floor system and should be inset properly to allow for 7/16 OSB exterior sheathing and exterior siding (the wall should be even with the ends of the second floor joists which were previously inset). The siding must match properly to the exterior log wall profile. After constructing the shed dormer wall, mark the location of rafters that sit on top of this wall. Also, locate dormers and construct the dormer stud walls. Mark the location of dormer ridge beams and rafters. Again, now is the time to clean, sand and stain (if applicable) your ridge beams and rafters, before installation. Check your Materials List (copy in blueprints and in warranty packet) to determine size and length of ridge beams and rafters shipped. Be certain to use Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 7

Page: 1

the proper length for each application as specified on the materials list. From the blueprints, find the location of the ridge beam and get the first piece of ridge in place and braced off. Use the proper lengths as indicated on the Materials List, and make sure the ridge is level and square with the house. Join the second piece of ridge beam to the first at the center of a rafter location. Fasten ridge beam pieces together as shown in your blueprints and brace splice underneath with temporary 2x bracing. Splices in the ridge beam should fall between two rafters. Check the blueprints and Materials List as to precise location of splices. Continue to splice pieces until the entire ridge is in place. Be sure to keep the ridge level and square with the home and properly braced. Valley rafters will then need to be installed (if applicable) and are usually 3x12

4x8 Rafter

3x12 Ridge Beam

Splice in the Ridge Beam

4x8 Rafter

Splices in the ridge beam must fall where two rafters come together. Splices anywhere else are unacceptable.

material as well. Study the blueprints for precise location. Check your Materials List as well to make sure you use the correct lengths of material. Once the ridge beam is in its proper place, mark the location of rafters on the ridge beam. Make sure these locations correspond to locations previously marked on the top of the log walls. Rafter centers must join the ridge beam directly across from one another. Check your blueprints for exact locations. You are now ready to begin installing the rafters. Chisel away the tongues on top of the log where the rafters will sit. Rafters should sit on the log top, not on the tongues. It is best to get rafter measurements and precut the rafters on the subfloor or ground before installing. 2x8 s can be used to make templates before cutting the 4x8 rafters. Then use the 2x8 to mark the 4x8 rafters. Do not cut all rafters until you are sure the cuts are right! Use proper bird s mouth cuts to allow rafters to sit flat on second floor or log wall. Allow for the house roof overhang except where covered porches are to be installed. Under porch roofs, rafters should be cut flush with the ends of the second floor joists to allow exterior siding to be installed and match up to the exterior log wall profile. Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

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Rafters not under porches usually have an overhang.

Rafters under porches usually do not have an overhang.

A rafter with a birdsmouth cut is shown here. The rafter is sitting on top of the log wall. It has been temporarily toenailed into place, until the lag screws can be properly installed.

Always use the proper hardware for the various roof framing connections as specified in your blueprints. Hardware is generally packaged in the pallet box received with your log home package.

CAULKING ON TOP

Splices in ridge beams should always fall between two rafters. It is not necessary to have a post directly under the splice.

DOUBLE TOP PLATE FOR GABLE WALL FRAMING 7/16 O.S.B. SCREWED DOWN WITH ROOFING FELT ON TOP IINSULATION PANELS WITH WOOD STRIPS SCREWED DOWN 2x6 T&G WITH FELT VAPOR BARRIER ON TOP 4x

7/16 OSB SHEATHING TYVEK HOUSE WRAP PROFILE LOG SIDING

8" OLY

CONTINUOUS VENT IN STUD WALL BETWEEN COURSES OF SIDING TO ALLOW AIR FLOW TO VENTED RIDGE CAP (BY OTHERS)

12" LAG BOLT-BY OWNER FASCIA

RAFTERS & JOISTS INSET FOR SIDING 16"

4x8 SIDE PLATE

7'-0"

GABLE STUDS INSET FOR SIDING & OSB SHEATING

5/4" C.C.A. RND EDGE DECKING PROFILE LOG SIDING TO COVER SUBFLOOR

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

2x8 C.C.A PORCH JOISTS 2x10 SUBFLOOR

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Section: 7

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Use 2x lumber for temporary supports to secure the ridge beam in place. Here, shed dormer walls have been erected, along with the placement of several rafters.

Shown at left is the beginning stages of Premier Roof framing. The ridge is in place and supported with miscellaneous framing lumber. The gable dormer wall is in place. The shed dormer wall is in place. The remaining rafters can now be cut and set.

Splices in ridge beams should always fall between two rafters. It is not necessary to have a post directly under the splice.

In this picture, all rafters that were not a part of the shed dormer or gable dormer have been set. The next step will be to construct the shed dormer and gable dormer studwalls. The remaining rafters will sit on these studwalls.

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Page: 4

These pictures show the construction of the typical shed dormer stud wall. The height of the studwall is usually 8-feet from the top of the log wall. However, this height can vary, and it will affect the pitch of the shed dormer. It is advised that the shed dormer roof pitch be no shallower than 3/12. The wall is laid out and assembled on the second floor deck using a doubled top plate, then raised into position. The bottom plate is secured first. The wall is levelled in both directions and braced off. Diagonal temporary bracing is added to stiffen the wall until the exterior sheathing can be added. Notice the headers above the window opening in the wall and the blocking between studs where a perpindicular studwall will eventually join. Rafters can be set on the shed dormer wall once it is built and in place. Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

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Section: 7

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After setting the main house ridge and rafters and the shed dormer wall and rafters, the gable dormer may be constructed. It is best to construct the gable dormer studwalls before framing the gable dormer roof. The studwall height is generally the same as the shed dormer studwall height. Here, the 3x12 ridge beam and the 4x8 house rafters have been set. The shed dormer wall and rafters have been erected, and soon the gable dormer will be framed.

The front wall of the gable dormer is constructed using doubled top plates and proper headers above the windows. The wall is set into place, braced-off and siffened with temporary diagonal framing.

The side walls of the gable dormer will generally sit on top of the two adjacent house rafters. They also sit on top of the 2x6 tongue and groove decking, so it may be necessary to deck a section of the roof with tongue and groove before construction the side walls. However, this is not always the case, as the side wall sometimes extend down to the second floor deck.

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Section: 7

Page: 6

Valley

Jack rafter

Ridge Flashing will be installed under the siding before the finished roofing is installed.

Once all of the gable dormer walls are built and in place, the ridge beam can be set. Temporary bracing can be used to hold the outer end of the ridge in position and at the proper height until rafters can be set to permanently secure the ridge. The valley rafter connects the inner end of the ridge to the adjacent house rafter. Jack rafters connect the gable dormer ridge to the valley. Valley rafters and jack rafters are generally secured using lag screws in countersunk holes and hidden with dowel plugs. However, one should use the connections recommended in the blueprints. Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 7

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Gable dormer side walls sit on top of the 2x6 t&g decking. The first piece of 2x6 decking is ripped to the roof pitch to remove the tongue. This allows the fascia to mount flush over the ends of the rafters and decking.

Several sections of roof may need to be decked decked with 2x6 t&g decking before the gable dormer walls are built. This allows the gable dormer walls to be built on top of the decking. Notice that the decking is set back from the inside of the rafter adjacent to the gable dormer. The gable dormer sidewall will be built flush with the decking. The interior wall covering will be installed later and fit into this set-back area.

Set-back for interior wall covering. Space left for continuous vent strip (to be discussed later in this manual).

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Section: 7

Page: 8

Studwalls are set back to allow a smooth transition from logs walls to framed and sided walls.

All studwalls that sit on top of the log walls should be set back to allow OSB exterior sheathing and log profile siding to be installed and be flush with the logs below. It is important to make a smooth transition from logs to siding on the exterior so it is not noticeable. Measure the shiplap depth and add to the sheathing thickness to calculate the amount of set back.

Because this gable-dormer wall is set back, the OSB exterior sheathing and log profile siding can be installed so the transition from logs to siding appears seamless. In this case, the exterior sheathing is 7/16 and the ship-lap depth in the siding is 3/8 . Therefore, the sum of these numbers gives a setback of 13/16 .

The gable end stud wall is build on top of the log wall. It is set in from the exterior of the log wall to allow 7/16 OSB sheathing, tyvek house wrap, and log profile siding on the exterior of the studwall.

Always caulk the V-joints where the tongue & groove meets the framed wall.

Always remember to caulk the V-joints where the tongue & groove meet the top plate of the gable end framed wall. Caulking the V-joints not only increases the insulation value of the home, it prevents unwelcome intruders such as wasps and ladybugs from entering the home.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 7

Page: 9

This photo shows the gable end framed wall sitting on top of the log wall. This log wall terminates with a half log. The bottom piece of siding was cut in half to continue the contour of the log wall for a smooth transition.

The framed gable end wall has been inset to allow the outer face of the siding to be flush with the outer face of the log wall. The bottom of the siding should be caulked with a clear silicone caulk to prevent water from seeping into the crack between the log wall and the siding. The siding can actually be allowed to lip over the log wall by 1/16-inch to help reduce potential water problems.

This photo shows how the face of the half log can be ripped off with a saw before being installed. The cut should be deep enough to allow a whole piece of siding to be installed over it. This eliminates the seam between the top of the log wall and the bottom of the gable end stud wall, and, thereby, eliminates the potential for water problems.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 7

Page: 10

This photo shows the gable end framed wall sitting on top of the log wall. This log wall terminates with a half log. The builder simply did not install the top half log.

The framed gable end wall has been inset to allow the outer face of the siding to be flush with the outer face of the log wall. Since the log wall ends with a whole log at its top, a whole piece of siding can ship-lap over the top log and continue up the framed wall. The studs here are inset to allow the 7/16-inch OSB and the 3/8-inch siding ship-lap to fit in the inset.

This photo shows how the transition from logs to siding is very smooth due to the framed gable end wall being inset properly. One should also consider the interior wall covering. If it is a siding that matches the interior face of the log, and the desired result is a smooth transition from logs to siding, then the gable end studs may need to be ripped to a certain width. This should be calculated on the jobsite. Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 7

Page: 11

RAFTER COLLAR INSTALLATION After all rafters are in place, rafter collar ties should be installed. Collars are important, as they keep rafters from pushing out on the log walls and from sagging in their middle. There are several methods for attaching collars. The side mount method is placing the collar ties on the side of the rafter, and through bolting with the 1/2 bolts, supplied. Material for this method will be supplied unless the Classic Collar Tie option is specifically purchased. The Classic Collar Tie option attaches the collars directly underneath the rafters by using 2x8 lumber to scab the rafter and collar together with metal banding underneath. Black through bolts are used to go through the collar and scab and are left exposed. To side mount the collar ties, clean, and stain (if applicable) the rafter collars before installing. You may wish to create a decorative finished look by using a drill and 15/16 butterfly bit to counter sink holes in the collars and rafters. The collars will be attached to the rafter by through bolting through these holes. The holes will later be plugged with short pieces of 1 dia. dowel rod, giving the appearance that the collars and rafters are doweled together. If you choose the Classic Collar Tie Option , you need to clean, sand, and stain (if applicable) the rafter collars and scabbing materials before installing. Use a 9/16 bit to drill through the scab and collar. The scabs will be attached to the collars and rafters by bolting through these holes. The bolts will extend through the two scabs and the collar and/or rafter. The heads of the bolts, the washers and the nuts will be on the outside of the scab and will be left exposed. Prepare the scabs by cutting pieces to length and drilling holes in a consistent pattern. Only through bolts are recommended for scab to collar attachment. Mark collar locations on rafters, get measurements, and make necessary cuts to collars. As a rule of thumb, collars over a second floor should be eight feet above the top of the log walls. Otherwise, collar locations can be determined as follows: Measure the distance from the top of the log wall up to the ridge beam. Take 1/3 of the distance you measured and add it to the height of the log wall to determine the height of the collar. If you are using scabs, prepare scabbing material (2x8) to secure collars to rafters and attach two scabs to one face of each collar. Hold the collar in place between the two rafters and attach by nailing the attached scabs to the rafters. Once the collar is in place, you should install the two scabs to the other face of the collar. But first, tie the collar to each rafter using metal banding. Then install scabs by bolting to the collar and the rafter over the metal banding. Rafter collar ties should be installed before the2x6 tongue & groove decking is applied to the roof framing. Do not use rafter collars with the barge rafters or the rafters directly over log walls.

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Page: 12

8'-0"

4x8 Rafters

Side mounted collar ties

Rafter collars are attached using a side mount method, as shown here. The collar tie is placed on the side of the rafter, and is attached using through bolts. A consistent pattern of countersunk holes is made on the collar tie and rafter. Pieces of dowel are used in the countersunk holes to complete the decorative look.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Collar ties are one of the most critical structural elements in most roof systems. They should only be installed with through-bolts, nuts and washers (no nails or lag screws). They should be installed before tongue-and-groove decking is applied to the tops of the rafters.

Here, a 4x8 collar tie is shown on a shed dormer rafter. The collar tie should sit upon the shed dormer wall, which should be built to a height of 8Â&#x2019;-0Â&#x201D;. Here, the collar tie has been attached using the side mounted style. A consistent pattern of countersunk holes in the rafters, through which through bolts should be used, can be plugged with pieces of dowel rod for a decorative effect.

Construction Guide

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Install collar ties before applying 2x6 t&g roof decking. If the collars are not installed first, the weight of the decking will cause the rafters to push out on the log walls and stud walls. The walls may be pushed out of plumb, and many problems may result later in CONTINUIOUS RIDGE VENT BY OWNER

8" OLY FASTENER (ONE EACH RAFTER)

RIDGE BEAM

HOUSE RAFTER 7/16" O.S.B. 2X6 T&G DECKING

ISO-VENT PANEL

30# FELT

FINISHED ROOFING BY OWNER

ONE LAYER OVER DECKING AND ONE LAYER OVER O.S.B.

1/2" x 6" ZINC PLATED BOLTS-DRILL AND THROUGHBOLT. (COUNTERBORE 1 1/4" DIA. 1" DEEP BOTH OUTSIDE ENDS) BOLTS MAY BE CONCEALED WITH 1 1/4" DOWEL PLUGS APPROX 2" LONG.

2X6 T&G DECKING

INSULATE OR CAULK V-JOINTS IN T&G OVER GABLE STUD WALLS

CONTINUOUS CORNICE VENT BY OWNER 2x6 SNOW BLOCKING RIPPED TO THICKNESS OF ISOVENT

4x8 COLLAR TIE

MAX. HEIGHT FROM TOP OF LOG WALL SHOULD BE NO MORE THAN 1/3 DISTANCE OF TOTAL ROOF HEIGHT WHEN COLLAR TIE IS PLACED OVER OPEN AREA

12" LAG BOLT

PRE-DRILL & SECURE TO LOG WALL

FASCIA BOARD

RAFTERS WITH LONG COLLARS

NOTE: DOUBLE SNOW BLOCKING AND INSULATION TO BE INSTALLED BETWEEN RAFTERS BEFORE 2x6 T&G DECKING IS INSTALLED. (BY OWNER)

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R 4x TE

AF R Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

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2x8 scabs are too thin to be countersunk for through bolts and dowel plugs.

Bolts, washers and nuts must be left exposed if using 2x material for scabs.

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WARNING: Using 2x8 scabs with countersinking is not recommended. If one wishes to use a scab for collar attachment along with countersinking and dowel plugs, the scabs must be 4x material. 2x material is severely weakened by countersinking.

2x8 SCAB

ER FT

4x CO

LLAR

3/8" LAG SCREW

TIE

1" dia. DOWEL BY OWNER

6 1/2" 1 1/2" 3 1/2" 1 1/2" 2x8 SCAB

3/8" LAG SCREW BY OWNER

COUNTERSINK 1/2" 1" dia. DOWEL BY OWNER 4x COLLAR TIE

4x RAFTER

Collar ties should only be installed using through-bolts, nuts and washers. Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

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Section: 7

Page: 17

Once again, it is time to consider electrical wiring for any overhead lights or fans that will be installed in the second floor ceiling (roof). You may have reason to recess wiring into the tops of some rafters before installing the roof decking. However, it is easier to run wiring over the top of the 2x6 tongue & groove decking. The wiring will then be covered with the insulation panels (have your electrician supervise any and all wiring runs). After all rafters and collars are installed and any necessary wiring is run, you may complete the installation of your second floor tongue & groove decking. Check local building codes for compliance before beginning any electrical installation.

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Construction Guide

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GABLE-END STUDWALL CONSTRUCTION You should frame your gable walls at this time, before installing roof decking. The gable wall will sit on top of the end log wall. Use 2x6 or2x4 framing to construct a stud wall with the top plate of the stud wall being the same height as the rafters. Be certain to calculate the proper thickness needed for the 2x stud wall framing. Exterior siding, 7/16Â&#x201D; OSB exterior sheathing, and Tyvek House Wrap will be applied to the outside of this wall. The exterior siding must properly match the exterior log wall profile underneath it. Furthermore, consider the interior wall sheathing. For instance, if there is no second floor system at this gable, you may desire interior sheeting (sheet rock, 1x8 T & G, etc.) to fit flush with the interior of the log wall below it. Carefully calculate the 2x thickness needed and construct the gable end stud wall with the proper width.

Always caulk the V-joints where the tongue & groove meets the framed wall.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

The gable end stud wall is built on top of the log wall. It is set in from the exterior of the log wall to allow 7/16Â&#x201D; OSB sheathing, tyvek house wrap, and log profile siding on the exterior of the studwall. Always remember to caulk the V-joints where the tongue & groove meet the top plate of the gable end framed wall. Caulking the V-joints not only increases the insulation value of the home, it prevents unwelcome intruders such as wasps and ladybugs from entering the home.

Construction Guide

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It is wise to apply two beads of caulk to the top of any exterior studwall that butts to the bottom side of the v-joint t&g decking. The caulk will seal-off small openings caused by the v-joints. These openings, if left unsealed, are an easy way for air and/or insects to enter the home. Exterior studwalls will eventually be covered with exterior sheathing, homewrap, and some sort of siding. The interior of the wall will be insulated with BAT insulation and covered with an interior wall covering, like sheetrock or 1x tongue and groove paneling.

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STAGGER DECKING NAIL PATTERN TO AVOID A CONTINUOUS SEAM ALONG RAFTER

WHEREVER POSSIBLE, FLOOR JOISTS AND RAFTERS WILL BE FASTENED TO THE LOG WALL AND TO EACH OTHER

48"

MATCHING LOG SIDING IN GABLE END

48"

7/16" OSB SHEATHING

48"

TYVEK HOUSE WRAP

24" 24"

4X8 HOUSE RAFTER

4X8 SECOND FLOOR JOIST

FLOOR JOISTS AND RAFTERS INSET APPROX. 3/8" TO ALLOW FOR PORCH KNEE WALL SIDING

NOTCH PORCH POST AND ATTACH PLATE TO POST USING LAG BOLTS

4x8 PORCH SIDE PLATE NOTCHED INTO LOG WALL 4X8 PORCH PLATE TO SUPPORT PORCH RAFTERS

6X6 PORCH POSTS

HOUSE ROOF TONGUE & GROOVE DECKING INSTALLATION You are now ready to install the roof sheathing, usually 2x6 tongue & groove. Tongue & groove roof decking should be face nailed into each rafter with two 16-penny coated nails. Do not nail through any wiring in the top of your rafters. Nail each piece of tongue & groove into every rafter it sits upon. Begin on the low end of the rafters. Rip the tongue or groove off the first piece to give a vertical cut when laid perpendicularly across the top of the rafters. Make this edge flush with the ends of the rafters for future fascia installation. Air entryways for ventilated roof systems must be installed at the beginning of the roof decking installation. It is usually installed in the second or third course of decking of the overhang areas as shown on the next two pages. Air entryways for ventilated roof systems under covered porches may be installed in the manner shown on pages 70 and 71. Air entryways are very important to the premier roof system. If the airflow channel is blocked in any way, the insulation value and life span of the roof decrease. Be sure to install air vents in the knee wall under the porch roof. Do not block this channel with the house decking. You must allow an airflow channel from this vent to the vented ridge cap. See Detail. Under porch roofs, tongue & groove decking should run to the inside edge of the house rafters. The tongue OR groove should be ripped off the outer piece of decking so that a flat edge will exist on the outer piece. When installed, this edge should be vertical and flush with the house rafters. After installing the tongue and groove roof decking, you should apply a vapor barrier on top of the roof deck. Use the 30# felt provided or a 4 mil. clear plastic sheeting and attach with 7/8Â&#x201D; plastic top cap nail or staples. At this point, before installing roof insulation panels, you should run electrical wiring Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

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over the top of the tongue & groove decking if needed. Have your electrician present to supervise this installation. Wiring for overhead lights and fans and the like should be installed now. Also, before roof insulation is installed, the porch roof should be framed and decked. Also, it is vital to put a vapor barier on top of the 2x6 t&g decking before installing insulation. This will prevent moisture in the roof system from dripping inside the finished home. 30# felt is usually provided for this purpose. In cold climate areas, it is recommended that one use a product like Â&#x201C;Ice-DamÂ&#x201D; for this vapor barrier. Do not insulate without a vapor barrier first being installed.

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Always start decking at the bottom of the rafters. Rip the first piece at the roof pitch angle to remove the tongue and create a flat surface to nail fascia to later. It is best not to run decking seams straight up along a rafter, but, rather, to alternate seams so they break on different rafters. This adds to the strength of the roof.

STAGGER DECKING NAIL PATTERN TO AVOID A CONTINUOUS SEAM ALONG RAFTER

48" 48" 48"

In all roof overhang areas, a continuous vent strip should be installed to allow air to enter the vented roof system (to be discussed later in this manual). Under porch roofs, where there is no rafter overhang, the air entryway is accomplished by installing the vent strip in the porch knee wall and will be discussed later.

It may be necessary to deck the roof with 2x6 t&g before constucting the gable dormer walls. These walls often sit on top of the 2x6 t&g decking.

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PORCH ROOF FRAMING The porch roof discussed herein is a shed type roof attached to the house roof and consists of the following members: porch roof support posts, 4x8 plate around tops of posts, 4x8 porch rafters and 2x6 tongue & groove decking. The porch roof should be framed after the porch deck is built. The following illustrations show the proper method for framing a Premier porch roof. The first step in porch roof framing is to lay out the porch roof support posts. Either square or round posts should be installed on top of the porch deck and located directly over deck supports. Posts should be properly supported underneath the porch floor decking. Review the previous section on Porch/Deck Construction if necessary. Clean, sand and stain porch posts before installation. Also, make the proper cuts in the top of the posts to accommodate the top porch plate as shown (usually a 4x8). The porch posts may be cut to the desired height, usually about 7-feet above the subfloor level. Porch post centers are generally located 8 to 12 apart on the porch deck. Window and door location may affect your post locations. However, check your blueprints for exact post locations and set the posts in their proper location. Toenail the bottom of each post to the porch deck and brace the posts off with 2x4 s or other bracing material. Make sure posts are vertically plumb. Also, be certain that the posts are placed in a square fashion so the porch roof is square. Even if the porch deck is out of square, the porch roof must be square with the house roof. Once all posts are installed and braced and are square and plumb, you are ready to install the top porch plate. Clean, sand and stain 4x8 s to be used for the porch plate. Use the proper lengths as specified on the Materials List. All splices in the 4x8 top plate must be located over porch posts, and the plate should be attached to the posts with lag bolts. These may be set in countersunk holes and plugged with a dowel. After the plate is properly installed, mark the plate for porch rafter locations. Porch rafters should sit on the house roof directly above the house rafters. See your blueprints for exact rafter locations. Mark the house roof for porch rafter locations. Using the proper porch roof pitch from the blueprints cut a porch rafter to length, allowing a minimum 16inch overhang off the front of the porch. Make sure the rafter is properly cut before cutting other rafters. Also, do not cut all the rafters the exact same way if the porch roof framing is not perfectly square. Porch rafters should be toe nailed in place until all are installed. Once all rafters are properly located, use the lag screws and Oly screws provided to permanently attach rafters to the house roof and to the porch plate. Always use the connections specified in your blueprints The porch roof may now be decked with 2x6 t&g. Follow the instructions previously discussed for decking a roof. It will not be necessary to install continuouse vents in the porch roof if it is uninsulated. Do not run the decking all the way to the ends

of the rafters where they sit on top of the house roof decking, as this will block the air flow of the vented roof system. The roof insulation must be installed before the porch roof decking is applied. It is vital that the airflow not be blocked. Please study the following illustration which shows the order in which to install these materials. Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

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Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

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Porch rafters usually sit on the house roof directly above a house rafter. Follow the rafter layout diagrams in your blueprints. Be certain to follow the instructions in the previous diagram so as not to block the airflow of the vented roof system.

Shown here is a full length premier porch roof. Notice the 4x8 rafters sitting on the 4x8 porch plate. The porch plate is notched into the top of the porch posts, and attached with lag screws.

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Construction Guide

Section: 7

Page: 26

Continuous Vent

Stud Wall

Log siding over stud wall

Log Wall

Shown here is the exterior snow blocking under a covered porch. A studwall is built on top of the log wall, recessed aproximately 3/8Â&#x201D; to allow the siding to fit flush with the log wall. A continuous vent strip provides an air entryway for the venitlated roof system.

These two pictures show the porch knee wall under the porch roof. A vent strip is installed in the wall to allow air to enter the vented roof system. The bottom photo is wrong. The porch roof decking was run too far up and blocks the air flow. Furthermore, the section of house roof under the porch roof is not insulated. The proper method is to run the vapor barrier and house roof insulation all the way down to the ehds of the house roof rafters. The insulation should be cut to fit between the porch rafters. The air can then enter the roof through the vent strip in the porch knee wall and travel upward to the ridge vent via the ventilation channels in the insulation panels.

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Construction Guide

Section: 7

Page: 27

ROOF SYSTEM INSULATION The following diagram illustrates how the roof insulation should be installed to allow for ventilation. Airflow is to take place on the top side of the insulation, not the bottom. The flat side of the insulation panels should be turned down when installed. A layer of 30 pound roofing felt must be in place on top of the tongue and groove decking prior to installing the insulation panels. The felt will serve as a vapor barrier. You must build 2x blocking around the perimeter of your roof, keeping the outer edge flush with rafters to allow for eventual fascia installation. Furthermore, you should put a strip of blocking every three feet or so along your overhang areas to prevent insulation panels from covering up your air entryways. Also, you do not need to insulate overhang areas. Be sure your blocking is the same thickness as the roof insulation panel so the OSB will lay flush across the entire roof area when applied. Once perimeter blocking is in place, lay a run of insulation panels across the roof. Butt panels tightly together as you go across. Cut panels with a circular saw to fit. Cut at proper angles at valleys, rafters, etc. and keep a tight fit between panels. After laying out the insulation layer, install 7/16Â&#x201D; OSB on top. Be sure the OSB sheathing is blocked solidly around all perimeter edges. Use the provided screws to secure OSB to roof deck. Keep edges of the OSB flush with rafters so that fascia will fit properly when installed. Continue installing the panels and OSB in this manner until the entire roof area is covered. Run all layers all the way to the ridge except the OSB sheathing layer. Hold it back from the ridge about two inches on each side of roof. This allows the air venting just under the OSB to escape through the finished roofing ridge vent to be installed by your roofer. BE CERTAIN TO COVER THE ENTIRE RIDGE AREA WITH INSULATION. ONLY THE TOP OSB LAYER NEEDS TO BE HELD BACK A COUPLE OF INCHES TO ALLOW AIR TO ESCAPE INTO THE RIDGE VENT. THEIR SHOULD BE A TIGHT FIT OF THE INSLUATION AT THE RIDGE. USE SPRAY FOAM IF NEEDED.

The Premier Roof System uses rigid insulation panels with ridges on 16inch centers to create ventillation channels to allow air flow through the roof, above the insulation. This aids in moisture evaporation and cooling of the finiahed roofing. It is important to create the proper airflow during installation. Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 7

Page: 28

The rigid insulation panels are secured to the roof deck by screwing through the OSB, through the insulation and into the 2x6 T&G decking. The decking is 1-1/2 inch thick. The screws are designed to sink 1-inch deep into the decking. They should not be allowed to go through the decking so that the screw tips are visible inside the home. The screws are included in most TLH packages and should be used about every 2-feet along the strip. The OSB sheathing should be screwed down using 20 screws per panel. Continuous vent strips are gnerally not provided by TLH. They can be purchased at a local building supply very inexpensively. An air entry way must be created at the low end of the roof, and a ridge vent must be installed by the finish roofer at the top of the roof. Serious problems may occur if VAPOR BARRIER layer is missing or damaged.

30# Felt as top layer (not shown)

7/16Â&#x201D; OSB screwed down to 2x6 decking layer

2 layers rigid insulation panels with molded air channels 30# Felt Vapor Barrier 2x6 and 2x8 subfascia 2x6 T&G 4x8 Rafter

Screws go 1x12 Finish Continuous through OSB, Fascia Vent Strip lets insulation, and air in 1Â&#x201D; deep into decking Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Ridge vent in the finished roofing (not shown) draws air out. Section: 7

Page: 29

It is important to keep the insulation panels as dry as possible while stored on the jobsite. The panels have a paper backing that can shrink after being wet and drying out. This can cause a bow in the panel. If a panel bows, the bow may be relieved by slicing the insulation with a razor knife.

The above display shows the various layers in the premier roof system. The entire perimeter of the insulation layer should have a solid wood nailer that is the same height as the insulation thickness (usually 5-1/2 inches). This includes along the sides of a shed dormer or gable dormer. The OSB sheathing on top of the insulation must ave a solid surface to nail to along its perimeter. If a valley in the insulation panel butted against the shed dormer wall, for instance, there would be no soild surface along the shed domer wall to nail the OSB to. The OSB would defect at this point. Do not insulate the lower overhang area of the roof so as to not block the air entryway. Be certain to install the felt vapor barrier under the insulation panel.

Shed dormer wall

Roof overhang area

Perimeter blocking along shed dormer wall

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

The 2x perimeter blocking for the insulation layer is shown here. The 2x adjacent to the shed dormer wall will act as a nailer for the roof sheathing. It is installed at the same height as the top of the roof insulation layer. In this instance, the roof area to the left of the shed dormer is the roof overhang and will not be insulated. However, the thickness of this section of roof must be built up to equal the thickness of other sections that are insulated. This is accomplished by using the perimeter blocking. Section: 7

Page: 30

The insulation panels consist of two layers that are glued together at our factory. The bottom layer is a 4-inch piece of poyisocianurate insulation (LTTR-30 or R-35). The top layer is 1-1/2-inches of Extruded Polystyrene with molded ridges and valleys (LTTR-3.5 or R-4). The other roofing components will add about LTTR-2 or R-3 to the insulation value of the roof. The gluing operation is strictly to make it easier for your builder to handle these panels. Rather than put these down in two layers, we have made it possible to put them down in one layer. The purpose of the glue is to simply hold the two panels together long enough to get them installed.

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A flat screen vent covers the air entryway in the overhang of this gable dormer roof. Air flow channels are extremely important for the insulation system on a premier roof.

7/16Â&#x201D; OSB Sheathing

Air Entryway

Air entryways are covered with a flat screen vent. It is very important not to block the air entryway with the isovent panels or any other material. This will prevent the proper ventilation of the roof, therefore lowering the R-Value of the roof insulation system.

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Construction Guide

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4 1/2 IsoVent Panel

2x6 T & G Decking

7/16 OSB Roof Sheathing

5-1/2 Iso-vent panels, 2x6 tongue & groove decking, and 7/16 OSB roof sheathing combine to provide a premier roof with an insulation value of R-35+. 30# roof felt is installed under the isovent panels on top of the tongue & groove and on top of the roof sheathing. It is very important to apply both layers of felt to the roof.

A layer of 30# felt should be laid on top of the 2x6 t&g decking before installing the roof insulation panels. The felt acts as a vapor barrier to the inside of the home. The layered roof system will invariably have moisture in it after installation. On cold days, warm air from inside the home can get into the roof system. When the warm air meets the cold air in the roof, the moisture in the air can condense and turn to water. The vapor barrier prevents this moisture from dripping back inside the home. In very cold climates, it is advisable to use a heavier vapor barrier (ice-dam) to better prevent this anomaly. Follow the insulation manufacturer s installation instructions included in your blueprints. Use the the black screws to secure the OSB sheathing and insulation to the roof deck per the pattern shown in the prints (24 screws per piece of OSB). Be sure to align the ridges and valleys in the insulation panels so that a valley air channel is created from the bottom of the roof to the top. Air enters through the vent strips at the bottom of the roof and escapes through a continuous ridge vent installed with your finished roofing. To accomplish airflow along valleys, use a knife to cut the ridge in the panel back about 2-inches where it meets the valley. Otherwise, airflow from the bottom of the roof will be blocked from travelling up the valley. Cut off the top of the ridge so it is the same height as the valley. Cut back about two inches. This should be done along the edge of the panel that butts to the valley. This creates an airflow channel up the valley to escape at the ridge vent installed with the finished roofing. A second layer of 30# felt should be installed over all the roof sheathing before finished roofing is installed.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 7

Page: 33

False rafter tails may be cut to extend the roof line along the bottom edge of the shed dormer if desired. The tails should be cut to match the actual house rafters. They should be lag bolted to the shed dormer wall, and it may be necessary to install miscellaneous 2x blocking between the studs of the shed dormer wall on the inside for the lags to screw into. The roof will need to be built up with miscellaneous 2x framing lumber to match the height of the main house roof. The bottom photos show houses with and without the false rafter tails.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 7

Page: 34

PORCH ROOF DECKING INSTALLATION You are now ready to install the 2x6 tongue & groove decking on the porch roof rafters. Begin at the front edge of the porch. Rip pieces of tongue or groove at the angle of your porch roof pitch for your first horizontal run of decking. Install the flat edge of these ripped pieces toward the front and keep flush with the ends of the porch rafters. This allows fascia boards to be nailed later over the rafters and tongue & groove decking. Butt pieces together over rafter centers and alternate joints. Face nail the decking using the proper nail pattern as with the house roof decking. Apply decking all the way up to the house roof. Cut the last horizontal run of tongue & groove to fit tightly against the top of the OSB sheathing on the house roof. Try not to leave a gap in the decking where the porch roof joins the house roof. If you leave a gap in where the decking meets, you will not have a hard surface where the two roofs join. This means that shingles, to be installed later, may be easily broken when stepped on. Do not block air entryways or airflow of the ventilated roof insulation system. After the 2x6 tongue & groove is installed, cover the decking with a vapor barrier. Use the 30# felt provided or a 4-mil. clear plastic and attach with plastic-top cap nails or staples. Porch roofs are generally not to be insulated. Do not allow the porch roof decking to block the airflow entering from the porch knee wall under the porch roof. Insulation panels on the main house roof should run all the way down to the bottom edge of the house roof between the porch rafters that sit on the house roof. The OSB sheating should be installed on top of the insulation and run down to where the porch rafters sit on the house roof. The porch roof decking should run up to this OSB layer and lap over it. The last piece of porch roof decking on the upper side should be cut at an angle where it sits on top of the OSB for a tight fit. If you wish to have any overhead lights, fans, etc. under the porch roof, run your wiring over the top of the porch roof decking or recess wiring into the tops of the porch rafters before installing decking. Drill through rafters to bring wiring out under the porch roof. Have your electrician approve your wiring. Your porch roof and house roof are now ready for finished roofing. It is best not to install wiring on top of the porch decking, as it may be damaged by finished roofing nails. GABLE/DORMER SHEATHING & SIDING INSTALLATION Install 7/16Â&#x201D; OSB exterior sheathing to the exterior sides of stud walls in the gables and dormers using plastic-top cap nails or shingle nails. Next, install the Tyvek House Wrap provided. Log siding is to be installed on the exterior side of the OSB. Be certain that flashing is properly installed where dormer stud walls join the house roof to prevent leaking. Cut the siding ends according to the roof pitches joining the siding. Be sure to use galvanized nails to prevent rust streaking. Caulking may be used to seal cracks where siding joins the roof overhangs. If you have not already constructed the gable end stud walls, see the previous section Premier Roof Installation for a discussion of wall placement.

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Construction Guide

Section: 7

Page: 35

These photos show several different Premier Roof Systems from the inside. The framing of a premier roof can be quite intricate. Notice the compound angles of valley rafters and jack rafters. In all cases, the ridge beam is supported by a post to the second floor. The post is supported in turn by a post below the second floor going down to the subfloor. There will be solid blocking under the subfloor to support this post and carry it down to a concrete pier with a footing underneath. If the subfloor is over a basement, there will be a post carrying the weight of the roof down to the concrete floor of the basement. There will be a concrete footing under the basement floor at this location. The ridge beam of the roof should always be supported all the way down to the foundation footings through a series of posts and piers. The bottom photo shows hardware typically used in the Premier Roof System framing.

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Construction Guide

Section: 7

Page: 36

This photo shows a Premier roof system using round rafters. The rafters have a flat surface on top for the 2x6 t&g decking to be installed upon. Round rafter collars are also used, and there are several methods commonly used to attach these to the rafters.

This photo shows finished gable dormer roofs using the Premier Roof system. Also shown is a finished Premier Porch Roof system. Y-braces were added to the porch posts to support the porch plate. Trusses were installed in the gable dormer roofs for decorative purposes.

This photo shows a Premier Porch Roof from underneath. Here, the porch roof wraps around a corner, and a hip rafter is used to make the turn in the roof.

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Construction Guide

Section: 7

Page: 37

CONVENTIONAL ROOF SYSTEMS Conventional roof systems are being more widely used with log homes; therefore, this section will offer brief information concerning conventional roof system installation. Refer back to the section on Premier Roof Systems. The basic differences in conventional and Premier Roof Systems should be noted. The Premier Roof System framing consists of 3x12 ridge beams and valley rafters and 4x8 main rafters and collar ties with 2x6 tongue & groove decking on top. Overhead wiring is run on top of the 2x6 decking. The bottom side of the 2x6 decking (V-groove side) functions as the interior ceiling, and all rafters are exposed. A vapor barrier and vented roof insulation panels are installed as the next layers on top of the decking. The final layer on top of the insulation is 7/16-inch OSB. Apply the 30-# felt (supplied) and finished roofing (by owner) are then applied. The exterior roof overhang areas are left exposed and are not enclosed. Conventional roof systems are framed by either stick building with 2x rafters or by using pre-manufactured roof trusses or a combination thereof. Collar ties made from optional 4x8 material may be used with the 2x framing and left exposed to view from within the home, giving a cathedral ceiling look. If a flat ceiling is desired upstairs, simply use the standard 2x collar ties. All other framing is not exposed to view. Once the roof is framed, the exterior sheathing, 7/16-inch OSB, is applied using plywood clips to prevent sagging between rafters. Felt and finished roofing are the last two layers. Soffits may be built with rough sawn plywood (with ventilation) to enclose the roof overhang areas. Other soffit material could be tongue & groove pine or cedar decking; vinyl; exterior wood paneling. The entire perimeter of the roof system should be covered with 1x fascia to hide the framing. Wiring is run from underneath (inside the house), through the trusses or rafters. Insulation is also applied from underneath after the rough-in electrical inspection is performed. It can either be blown in or regular batt insulation may be installed. The covering for the ceiling Here, a conventional roof is being constructed. A standard conventional roof consists of 2x8 rafers, a 2x10 ridge beam, 4x8 collar ties, 30# roofing felt, and 7/16Â&#x201D; OSB sheathing. All ceiling liners and insulation is provided by owner.

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Construction Guide

Section: 7

Page: 38

(sheetrock, 1x tongue &groove, etc.) is attached to the bottom of the rafter collars or trusses. If 4x8 collars were used, they will be left exposed for a cathedral ceiling look. Another difference between conventional roof systems and the Premier Roof System is cost. Conventional systems are considerably less expensive from the standpoint of both materials and labor, and, with conventional roofs, the home is in the dry faster as well. Both roof systems offered by Tennessee Log Homes have their merits.

12 SEE PLAN

INSULATION

NO OVERHANG PORCH SIDE

FINISH CEILING

SCISSOR TRUSS

SEE PLAN FOR LOG STYLE

SEE PLAN

12 INSULATION NO OVERHANG ON PORCH SIDE

FINISH CEILING

SEE PLAN FOR LOG STYLE

PITCHED FLAT CEILING TRUSS

INSULATION

FINISH CEILING

ATTIC TRUSS Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

SEE PLAN

Trusses can also be used for framing the roof of a log home. Insulation can be blown in, and wiring can be run inside trusses as with conventional homes. Tongue & groove or sheetrock can be applied to the interior for the ceiling. Construction Guide

Section: 7

Page: 39

The roof system shown on this page is the standard conventional stickbuilt roof with exposed 4x8 collar ties and 1x8 tongue and groove ceiling liner. This roof contains many exposed beams and posts and is a real wood ceiling. The cost is considerably less than the exposed beam Premier Roof systems in bothe materials and labor. Most builders understand how to build this type of roof and have done it on many occassions. The rafters are 2x8 on 16-inch centers. These may be upgraded to 2x10, 2x12 or wood I-beams. The top sheathing layer is 7/16-inch OSB with 30# felt and finished roofing. The system is vented by allowing air in through vents in the overhangs and porch knee wall. Air escapes through the ridge vent installed with the finished roofing. Air flow occurs above the insulation. The insulation is regular BAT insulation. The interior ceiling is 1x8 White Pine tongue and groove (same specie as the log walls). The roof features exposed 4x8 collar ties on a 48-inch spacing. Many Tennessee Log Homes use all conventional roofs or a combination of conventional and Premier within the same home.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 7

Page: 40

The roof shown here are stick-built using 2x12 rafters. Regular BAT insulation will be installed between rafters. Wiring and lighting is easily concealed. The ceiling can be wood tongue and groove or sheetrock and is attached to the bottom of the rafters. Exposed collar ties may also be added if desired. On the exterior, the roof overhang areas (soffits) are framed out using 2x framing. In this instance, the soffit was built to tie back into the walls horizontally. Vents will be added, and the soffits will be covered and closed up using 1x8 tongue and groove. Fascia has been applied to cover and dress up the face of the soffit and roof overhang areas. Most any builder is familiar with this type of construction.

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Construction Guide

Section: 7

Page: 41

Inside view of an attic truss. The box created in the trusses will be fully insulated using BAT insulation. The bottom will be covered with subfloor sheathing. The sides and top may be covered with tongue and groove or sheet rock or a combination thereof.

Underneath view of the attic truss. A flat ceiling was created under the trusses and may be insulated with BAT insulation and covered with sheetrock or t&g after the wiring is completed.

This is the end view of a conventioal truss roof system. The overhang (or soffit) is created by extending 2x miscellaneous framing (called lookouts) and hanging 2x rafter material (called the rake) to create the outer edge of the roof. The framing is covered underneath by 1x8 tongue and groove. The rake is covered by 1x fascia board to give the soffit area a finished look. Decorative eave suppor brackets may be added to dress up the end of the home even further. This picture shows the typical gable dormer framing using a conventional roof system. The soffit area was framed horizontally back into the side walls of the dormer. This will be covered with 1x t&g and 1x fascia board.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 7

Page: 42

These photos show the various ways of constructing and covering soffits and roof overhang areas of conventional roof systems.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 7

Page: 43

These photos show a conventional roof system constructed with scissor trusses. The outside pitch is a 9/12, and the inside is a 6/12. The roof consists of scissor trusses on 2-foot centers with 7/16Â&#x201D; OSB on top. Hclips are used to tie the runs of OSB together between trusse and prevent any sagging in the sheathing. There are vents in the bottom soffits, and a ridge vent in the finished roofing allows air to escape.

The interior ceiling is covered with sheetrock. Lighting is recessed. Speaker systems and air conditioning duct work is also installed in the roof system. The insulation can be BAT or blown in. If blown insulation is used, blocking must be installed to keep the insulation from sliding down over time.

The gable end was decorated with lumber to give the appearance of a truss.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 7

Page: 44

The roofs shown here are all conventionally framed. These are all high snow-load roofs (125#) and make use of glue-lam beams to support the roof framing. The framing is on top of the glue-lams. The framing is wood Ibeams on 16-inch centers. The ceiling is 1x8 t&g. Posts supporting the beams can be real hand-peeled trees if desired. These posts are structural and decorative at the same time.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 7

Page: 45

The home shown here has conventional roofs throughout. The roofs are framed with 2x12Â&#x2019;s on 16-inch centers with CDX plywood on top. Regular BAT insulation is used between rafters, and the interior ceiling is covered with 1x6 Spruce T&G. Conventional roof framing allows the easy use of canned lighting. The purlins shown ar Douglas Fir Glu-lam beams.

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Construction Guide

Section: 7

Page: 46

This photo shows a Premier roof system and the side mount collar tie attachment method. Four through bolts with nuts and washers are used. The bolts are countersunk, and the holes will be plugged with dowel rod to make it look as though the collar and rafter are pegged together.

Collar ties can sometimes be so long that they must be spliced together. In this case, a king post was used to tie the splice back to the ridge beam..

This photo shows a typical valley rafter in a Premier Roof System. The rafters that join the valley are called jack rafters.

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Construction Guide

Section: 7

Page: 47

This home has oppossing shed dormers (top left). The collar ties are very long and have to be spliced together in this instance (below). Collar ties will tie the two oppossing walls together and prevent the roof from pushing the walls outward. Also shown are finished shed dormer interior walls ready for sheetrock. The exterior of the shed dormer lacks only trim boards to be applied at the corner. The Premier roof is venterd (top right). A door and fixed glass are mounted in the gable end (middle left).

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Construction Guide

Section: 7

Page: 48

This photo shows a Premier roof system Jack Rafter connection with a valley rafter. The rafter is lagged to the valley in a countersunk hole. The holes will be plugged. The smaller lag screws are generally not included with your TLH package and can be purchased at a local building supply. Check your blueprints for connections specific to your home.

This photo shows the Premier Roof System ridge beams coming together over a post.

This photo shows a Premier Roof System.

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Construction Guide

Section: 7

Page: 49

This photo shows a Premier roof system with 3x12 ridge beams and valley rafters and 4x8 rafters and collar ties. The ridge shown is supported by a 6x6 post.

Jack rafters connect to valley rafters with lag screws in most instances. Check your local codes for compliance.

This photo shows a typical Premier Rof System.

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Construction Guide

Section: 7

Page: 50

Round rafters may be used with the premier roof system. It is easiest to use flat 3x12 ridges and valleys with the round rafters. The round rafters are flattened on top to accept the roof decking. Trusses can be pre-cut or made on site.

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Construction Guide

Section: 7

Page: 51

TLH can completely pre-cut your roof system framing. These pictures show a pre-cut roof being put together. A saw was not needed to assemble the pre-cut roof system. The pre-cut system uses traditional and precise mortise and tennon joinery.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 7

Page: 52

These pictures show the pre-cut roof system. All cutting and drilling was done at the factory. The on site crew simply uses a layout diagram to put the roof framing together. Every cut shown was done at the factory. The pre-cutting is extremely precise. The pre-cut system features a larger 6x12 ridge beam. Gable end trusses are also included if desired. All beams have champhered edges.

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Construction Guide

Section: 7

Page: 53

These pictures show a gutterless roof with stepped fascia. This creates a lot of character in the roof lines. The bottom layer of fascia is a 1x12, and the top layer is a 1x6.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 7

Page: 54

These pictures show roof with rafter tails that allow gutters to be installed. The fascia is western cedar and stepped. The points of the rafter tails have beeb nubbed-off.

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Construction Guide

Section: 7

Page: 55

Below Left: Stepped Fascia is 1x12 and 1x6 western cedar.

Below Right: Flashing must be installed along all gable dormer walls, chimneys, shed dormer walls, etc. before finished roofing can be installed. The flashing should lay under the siding or stone put on these walls.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 7

Page: 56

Above: Rafter tails nubbed-off. Fascia is stepped and cut in the same pattern as the rafter. Gutters are accomodated. Below: Stepped fascia adds lines to the roof system and yields good character.

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Construction Guide

Section: 7

Page: 57

Above: Dimensional 30-year shingles at left. At right is a standing seam 24 gauge colored metal. Below: At left is a 29 gauge colored metal roof. At right is a cedar shake roof.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 7

Page: 58

Section 8 Windows and Doors

1-800-251-9218 www.tnloghomes.com

EXTERIOR DOOR AND WINDOW INSTALLATION Safeguards against natural log settlement are built into the window and door installation process. Therefore, all windows and doors will be installed by first building a Â&#x201C;floatingÂ&#x201D; rough opening frame and installing it in the opening in the log wall. The windows and doors will then be attached to the floating frame, not to the log wall itself. All window and door openings in log walls should be at least 1-1/2 inches taller than the window casing height to allow for log settlement. In some instances, you may be required to cut out a half log at the top or bottom of the window or door opening. Check your log layout sheet in the blueprints. Once all openings are the proper size, install the rough opening frames. Use the illustrations below as a guide. Sort the splines and R.O. Frame pieces for each opening in the log walls. The vertical position will be shorter than the opening. Attach the splines to each piece of 2x8 or 2x6 to be used for a rough opening frame using 8-penny galvanized nails. The spline should be wrapped with log wall insulation tape and nailed into the groove in the 2x8 or 2x6 so as to fit into the spline cuts on the log ends at the door or window opening. Drill several holes in the 2x8 or 2x6 pieces and use a reciprocating saw to cut a two-inch long slot above and below the drilled hole as shown. The frames will be attached to the log wall by nailing through these slots. Apply one or two beads of caulk to each piece of the R.O. frame before installing. Make sure the spline on the vertical pieces fits into the spline cut on the log ends. Attach the frames to the log ends using 16-penny nails with washers. Nail through the slots so that the logs can settle without moving the window rough-opening frame. When the windows are installed, they will be nailed to this R.O. Frame, not to the log walls. This allows logs to settle without binding windows. The frame is independent of the log walls.

ROUGH OPENING FRAME 2x8 OR 2x6 (DEPENDING ON LOG STYLE) ROUGH OPENING FRAME

LONG SPLINE, WITH LOG WALL INSULATION BOTH SIDES, NAILED INTO GROOVE IN 2x6 OR 2x8 R.O. FRAME

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

VERTICAL SLOTS CUT INTO 2x8 OR 2x6 THROUGH WHICH FRAME IS NAILED TO LOG ENDS.

Construction Guide

Section: 8

Page: 1

A 2x6 or 2x8 Rough Opening frame should be installed in all window and door opeinings in log walls. Alternating two inch vertical slots have been cut into the rough opening frame. Nail to the log wall using 8d galvanized nails through the slots, allowing the widnow to Â&#x201C;floatÂ&#x201D; in the log wall. A spline should be nailed into a groove cut into the back of the rough opening frame with 8d galvanized nails. Place a strip of log wall insulation on each side of the spline before inserting the spline into the back of the spline and the spline cut in the log wall. Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

R.O. Frame will float independently of the log wall

Spline placed in groove cut into R.O. frame. Use 8d galvanized nails.

Construction Guide

Section: 8

Page: 2

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SLOTTED ROUGH OPENING FRAME

Construction Guide Section: 8 Page: 3

SPLINE ON ROUGH OPENING FRAME FITS INTO GROOVES IN END OF LOGS.

16d NAILS WITH WASHERS-NAIL TIGHT BUT DO NOT SEAT NAILS

There are basically two types of windows and doors used with log homes. The first is the trim mount window shown at left. This window will attach to the rough opening frame through its trim. The rough opening frame will be installed in the log wall opening. With this type window, the rough opening frame will consist of the two vertical pieces only. Once the rough opening frames are installed, the window will fit into the opening, and the trim will cover the outside edges of the log wall opening. The trim is nailed to the two vertical rough opening frames using galvanized finish nails. The second type window is a flange mount window shown below. This window requires a four piece rough opening frame (two vertical members, and two horizontal members - one at the top and one at the bottom). The frame is installed in the log wall opening, and the window sits inside the rough opening frame. The window is attached to the frame by nailing through the flange around the window perimeter.

Apply 1x window trim before installing windows.

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Construction Guide

Section: 8

Page: 4

Build R.O. Frames for doors in like fashion and install. Make sure that the log wall openings are an inch or more taller than the rough opening frame and window that will be installed in the opening. The logs will settle independently of the rough opening frame and window. If the frame and window are too tall in the opening, they will hold up the top log as settling takes place. A Minimum One Inch Settlement should be allowed. cover the rough opening frame. Before actually installing the doors and windows, consider your electrical wiring. Wiring for switches is often run inside of doorjambs and through a bored hole in the end of a log to the light switch. Have your electrician approve any such wiring. Some local codes allow this, and some do not. Before inserting door and window units into their proper openings, you may wish to apply your exterior sealant to the log walls. This will prevent inadvertent staining of the windows and doors. See the Section on Exterior Staining. It may be necessary to make the llog wall opening taller. This can be accomplished by sawing out the opening to be taller. The trim boards should easily hide your cuts. If the log wall opening is too wide, it can be filled with a piece of vertical 2x lumber the same width as the rough opening frame. Simply nail the board to the rough opening frame. Before installing windows, attach exterior window trim to the window. It is best to use the same species of wood for all exterior trim (fascia, window/door trim, etc.). Spruce is readily available species and matches the log walls well. Also, Western Red Cedar works nicely, but is generally more expensive and harder to find in all the widths you may need. You may find it easier to stain the trim before attaching to windows. Clean, sand and stain before installation. Cut the window/door trim to its proper lengths and attach with galvanized 8-penny finishing nails. Use the illustration below as a guide. Install the trimmed-out doors and windows by nailing the trim boards to the R.O. frames using 8D galvanized finishing nails. Never attach a door or window directly to a log wall. Doors may be installed without trim and trimmed out after installation. Remember to allow for screws before you begin installing trim to windows.

CUT THE EXISTING SPLINE CHANNEL DEEPER TO ACCOMMODATE WIRING BEHIND DOORJAMB.

CONSIDER ANY ELECTRICAL WIRING BEFORE INSTALLING WINDOWS AND DOORS. WIRING FOR SWITCHES IF OFTEN RUN THROUGH A CHANNEL DRILLED IN THE END OF A LOG TO THE LIGHT SWITCH. CHECK WITH AN ELECTRICIAN BEFORE BEGINNING ANY WIRING.

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Construction Guide

Section: 8

Page: 5

This log wall opening was sawn out to be taller. The builder used a saw to cut up into the log across the top of the window. From the inside, all space around the unit was filled with blow foam. The space will also have small pieces of BAT insulation stuffed into these cracks before applying the interior trim.

DO NOT FAIL to insulate and seal the window openings and door openings before trimming the interior of the unit. Failure to do so can result in signifgant air infiltration. Seal it correctly now...not later.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 8

Page: 6

Trim Mount Window: Apply the trim to the window unit before installing unit in log wall. Be sure to leave room for the screen to fit. Most TLH Trim Mount Windows have the trim and screen installed as shown at left. Attach trim to unit with 8-penny galvanized finish nails. Insert window in opening. Use shims to plumb the window in the opening. Attach the trim to the rough opening frame using larger galvanized finish nails. Spruce trim is installed at the factory with the standard TLH wood windows.

Apply 1x window trim before installing windows.

Flange Mount Window: Apply the trim to the window unit after the window is installed in the log wall. The trim covers the flange. There are many ways a finish carpenter can trim window units. Shown at left is the most basic type. Western Cedar with a rough face was used here. Use galvanized nails. Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 8

Page: 7

Flange Mount Window: This is the TLH Standard Window and mounting method. More decorative trims and trimming patterns may be used.

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Construction Guide

Section: 8

Page: 8

The Flange Mount Windows and Trim Mount Windows shown have had their trim mounted on the outside face of the log wall. The log face may be contoured as shown at left. Since the trim is mounted on the outside face of the logs, a drip cap should be made and applied above the top piece of trim. This will keep any water from running down the wall and behind the trim board.

At left is a picture of a piece of colored roofing drip edge used as a window drip cap. A saw cut was made with a skill saw horinsontally along where the top of the trim will sit. The metal drip cap is inserted in the saw cut and allowed to lip over the top piece of window trim. The saw cut is filled with quality silicone caulking.

At left is a picture of a piece wood used as a drip cap. A small piece of window trim material was ripped and applied across the top of the window trim. Quality silicone caulking was used to seal the wood against the log wall. These units are well protected by the roof overhang and gutters as well. This helps keep water off the log wall above these windows. This type drip cap works best under a roof overhang.

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Construction Guide

Section: 8

Page: 9

Some window units and configurations will require that curved pieces be cut out of wider boards, the pieced together to trim the window. Drip caps are difficult to install with radius units. The units shown were sealed above the trim with quality silicone caulking to prevent water from going behind the trim. The roof overhang helps reduce the amount of water in this area. The lower door units were protected by a metal drip cap.

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Construction Guide

Section: 8

Page:10

Odd-shaped window openings are generally not pre-cut in log walls. These pictures show an octagon shaped unit being cut in after the log walls were constructed. Also shown is the cut made to accomodate a window unit with a radius top.

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Construction Guide

Section: 8

Page: 11

Longer log walls with a lot of glass can be given lateral strength by installing a wall stiffener across the top course of logs, and below the gable end framed wall. A 3x12 plank was used here. It was laid down on top of the top log course. It was set back from the outside of the log wall to be flush with the framed gable end stud wall. The plank is lagged down to the top course using a zig-zag screw pattern. The 12-inch width of the plank gives greater lateral stability to the entire gable end log wall and stud wall above. The wall stiffener can become a shelf for nic-nacs when the home is finished.

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Section: 8

Page: 12

When trim is applied to windows against flat surfaces, potential water infiltration problems are reduced. The window trim shown here was sealed against the log wall with a quality silicone caulk. The trim shown here is painted green and adds a more decorative trim pattern.

When trim is applied to windows against rounded surfaces, the window opening should be framed as shown at left. A simple 2x2 frame is attached to the OSB covered wall, and the rounded siding butts into the 2x2 frame. This provides a seal where the siding butts into the 2x2 frame. The trim is attached to the 2x2 frame.

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These units have been installed, and all space around the window has been filled with insulation and blow foam. The flange mount window allows trim to be installed later. The unit will be well inspected before the outer trim is installed. More blow foam and or caulking may be used to seal the unit well.

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Section: 8

Page: 14

Fixed glass is quite common in log homes. Openings are generally framed to the owners taste using conventional 2x framing. Gang studs are used as posts. Wooden Â&#x201C;stops are installed to hold glass in place until trimmed on the interior. The exterior gang stud framework is wrapped with a 1x finish material. Fixed glass and trim is generally not included in a TLH package. It is best to have your builder frame the units to your satisfaction and then to have your local glass maker come to the job and measure the openings. In many cases, the glass maker will then make the double-paned sealed glass units, bring them to the jobsite and install in your opening. They will usually apply a few stops on the interior side of the glass panels. The panels should be sealed with caulking before installing the final interior finish trim work.

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Construction Guide

Section: 8

Page: 15

Whenever entire gable end walls are constructed out of framed posts and glass, the entire glass and framework can sit on top of an appropriately sized beam, screw jacks can be mounted under the beam. When the jacks are lowered, the whole framework can move downward. The sides of the glass-andpost wall must attach to the log walls through a slotted frame similar to a window rough opening frame. As the logs settle, they must not be held up by the glass-and-post wall. Remember, anything above the screw jack will move when adjusted. Attach the ends of the glass framework to the log wallso the two walls can float vertically.

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Construction Guide

Section: 8

Page: 16

The jacks under this framework are hidden behind the log siding on the exterior and by trim boards and baseboard on the interior. It is most likely that by the time these windows are set in place and trimmed out, the screw jacks will be set for the last time. In nearly all cases, these jacks will never be adjusted. These units have a 2x sill set uner the glass with a slight outward slope.

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Construction Guide

Section: 8

Page: 17

Gable end walls above the log walls are generally built Â&#x201C;solid.Â&#x201D; This means not settling mechanisms need be installed. The entire roof and gable end framing sit on top of the log walls and move downward as the logs settle.

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Construction Guide

Section: 8

Page: 18

INSET WINDOW MOUNTING This method of installing windows in log walls allows the window unit and window trim to set back inside the window opening. The unit is better protected from wind and water. Water cannot get behind the trim. The openings for the windows are precision cut at the factory, so it is very unlikely that any jobsite trimming will be needed (except with odd shaped units). This works only with 8-inch thick or larger logs. It is generally not needed with 8-inch logs if they have a flat outer surface. This works best with round logs and D-logs, 8x8, 8x12 or larger.

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Construction Guide

Section: 8

Page: 19

These diagrams show how the system works. There is basically a framed bos that sits inside of two vertical slotted rough opening frames. The two outer slotted frames have a spline that recesses into the notch on the log ends as previously discussed.

Inset Window Mounting in a Log Wall The rough opening frame for window mounting in a log wall consists of six pieces (two horizontal and four vertical). All frames are 1-1/2inches thick and 4-9/16-inches wide

3-1/2 inches

1-1/2 inch settling space above window

3-inches

1x4 trim is used to cover all frames and shim space. When completed, the inset unit should be sealed well with colored caulking at all joints.

Use shims to square the window in the opening. Make sure that the top of the window is 3-inches below the top of the opening. This will allow 1x4 trim supplied to cover the top settling space and frame and to also recess into the settling groove above the window about 1/2-inch. If you set the window too low, the 1x4 trim will not work on top of the window, and you will have to supply wider trim.

The box is inserted between the outer frames and attached to these outer frames. The flange window will then fit inside the inner bos and have room for shimming the unit.

The two outer vertical frames are to be slotted and nailed to the log wall through the slots (on the jobsite). The outer frames have a spline attached (on the jobsite) that recesses into the dado s in the log ends to block airflow. The two outer vertical frames are to be 1-1/2 inches shorter than the height of the opening.

3/4 Trim

The two inner vertical frames are not to be slotted and do not have a spline. They nail to the outer frames. The inner vertical frames are 4-1/2 inches shorter than the height of the opening.

Window (std. jamb)

There will be 3-1/2 inches on ach side of the unit that needs to be trimmed. 1x4 trim can be applied to cover the rough opening frame and flange.

The two horizontal frames are to be 3-inches shorter than the width of the opening.

The shim space and frame at the bottom of the opening will be covered with a piece of 1x4 trim set in at an angle to form a drip ledge.

Shim space

3/4

Bottom Nailer

Drip

Ledg

4-9/16

Log below window

The key to this system is that the top piece of trim be allowed to recess into a precut cavity in the bottom of the log across the top of the window.

1/2 shim space window outer frame slotted with spline settling space inner frame nailed to outer frame horizontal frame indicates window flange

1-9/16

Log above window HEADER LOG

Dado for window rough opening spline is 1-9/16 wide and is centered on 3-1/2 from inside face of log

1-1/2 settling space

5-1/2 3-1/2

3/4 Trim

1-1/2 settling space Top nailer

Shim space

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Construction Guide

4-9/16

5-5/16 Window (std. jamb)

Section: 8

Page: 20

Header Log Details 1-9/16 Dado for window rough opening spline is 1-9/16 wide and is centered on 3-1/2 from inside face of log

1-1/2 settling space

5-1/2

Whole log above window

1-1/2 settling space

1-9/16

Log above window HEADER LOG

5-1/2

3-1/2

Top nailer

3/4 Trim

1-1/2 settling space

3/4 Trim

1-1/2 settling space

Top nailer

Shim space

5-5/16 Window (std. jamb)

Sill Log Details

The mounted window and frame are independent of the log wall. 3/4

Drip

The shim space and frame at the bottom of the opening will be covered with a piece of 1x4 trim set in at an angle to form a drip ledge.

Ledg

4-9/16

Log below window

The top piece of trim can recess intot the header log above the window as the log walls settle.

Shim space

Bottom Nailer

The top of the window opening in the log wall will be either at the bottom of a log (top right diagram) or at halfway up the log (top left diagram).

3/4 Trim

Window (std. jamb)

4-9/16

Window (std. jamb)

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Construction Guide

Section: 8

Page: 21

The top piece of trim can be attached last. Attach all trim to the rough opening frame inside the log wall opening. By default, the log end cuts will be straight cuts as shown below. These ends can be smoothed and made perfectly flush with a grinder and/or sander. If desired, an agled cut can be made using a saw, grinder and sander (shown above).

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Construction Guide

Section: 8

Page: 22

Window and Door Mounting in 2x6 Framed Wall (to match look of inset window mounting in log wall)

2x6 Studwall

If inset window mounting is used in the log walls, you will likely want to have the same look after the units are mounted in framed walls, such as gable ends, garages and the like. These three diagrams illustrate how to accomplish this.

View From Outside

Doubled Top Plate

er ad He ox B ve o Abndow Wi

2x6 laying flat 3 pcs 2x standing on end with two layers OSB Laminated on site per local code. 2x6 laying flat

Shim space around window

Window Nailing Flange

7/16 OSB butts to trim Tyvek® Homewrap®

v Ty

1x4 Trim

Window

2x D-log Siding butts to trim

Single Bottom Plate

Windows and Doors in framed walls should be installed so they look as much like the units in the log walls. Therefore, the OSB layer stops short of the window opening. Leave enough room for the window trim to fit (3.5 with 1x4 trim from edge of window unit). This creates the maximum amount of reveal on the siding to better match the window units in the log wall.

Window and Door Mounting in 2x6 Framed Wall (to match inset window mounting in log wall)

Top View

7/16 OSB 1-1/2-inch exterior siding (D-log or round)

1x4 exterior window trim

Window flange

Clad exterior of window

Make angled cut on siding if desired

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Construction Guide

Section: 8

Page: 23

4-9/16

2x4 Stud

Make angled cut on siding if desired

2x4 Stud

Clad exterior of window

Wood casing of window

Interior window trim Interior Wall Covering (sheetrock, t&g, etc.)

1x4 exterior window trim

1-1/2-inch exterior siding (D-log or round)

Top View

Standard 4-9/16 Jamb with 2x4 studwalls

Window and Door Mounting in 2x4 Framed Wall (to match inset window mounting in log wall)

1/2-inch shim space filled with insulation

Window flange 7/16 OSB

6-1/4-inch jamb with 3/4-inch interior t&g.

Wood casing of window

1/2 shim space stuffed with insulation

2x6 Stud

Interior Wall Covering (sheetrock, t&g, etc.)

6-inch Jamb with 1/2-inch interior sheetrock.

Interior window trim

Pictures of Inset Window Mounting. Always seal and insulate all space around a window opening from the inside and outside before applying trim.

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Construction Guide

Section: 8

Page: 24

The unit also features a sloped ledge at its bottom to turn all water away from the unit. The edges of the trimmed unit should be caulked well to seal the unit inside the opening.

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Construction Guide

Section: 8

Page: 25

Section 9 Miscellaneous Exterior

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Miscellaneous Exterior Construction and Maintenance EXTERIOR SNOW BLOCKING Snow blocking is a common name for the component that encloses the area between the top of the log wall and the bottom of the roof system. The rafters sit on top of the log walls and cause a cavity to be formed between rafters as the home is constructed. The area must be sealed horizontally between rafters, and vertically from the top of the log wall to the bottom of the 2x6 tongue & groove decking of the roof or second floor. You must install exterior snow blocking around the top perimeter of your log walls to complete the dry-in phase of construction. Interior snow blocking should not be installed until construction is near completion and is not a part of the dry-in process. The following illustrations show the snow-block cavity that must be enclosed.

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Construction Guide

Section: 9

Page: 1

Determine the material you will use for snow blocking (matching log siding, 1x material, etc.). Then calculate the set back you will need to cause the exterior edge of the snow blocking to be flush with the exterior profile of the top log in the log wall. Use 2x scrap material to attach nailers to the inside faces of the rafters. Cut each piece of snow block material to a length to fit between the rafters and to a height to fit between the top log and the roof decking. Cut the top of the snow block at the angle of the roof pitch so it will fit flush with the roof decking. Once cut, nail the snow blocking to the 2x nailers on the side of the rafters.

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Construction Guide

Section:9

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Snow blocking under covered porches is built by constructing a stud wall (usually 2-feet high) between the top of log wall and the bottom of the porch roof decking, called a knee wall. The knee wall should be set back flush with the house rafters so that when profile log siding is attached to the exterior of the stud wall, it will fit flush with the exterior log wall profile. A continuous vent strip should be mounted between courses of siding to provide an air entryway for the vented roof system. DO NOT BLOCK THE AIR FLOW CHANNEL. Be certain to leave a channel in the house roof decking under the porch roof decking to maintain airflow. Be sure the insulation placed under the porch roof on top of the house roof does not block this channel. See the detail below for further explanation.

Be sure to leave a gap where the porch roof decking meets the house roof decking for the proper ventilation.

To enclose the area between the top of the logs and the bottom of the roof decking install snow blocking. Nail 2x pieces between the rafters for support, and attach the snow blocking. Insulate with regular batt insulation.

2x6 Decking Flat Screen Vent 4x8 Porch Rafter

Log Siding Top course of logs

Exterior snow blocking under a covered porch. Be sure to install a vent to allow proper ventilation for the premier roof system.

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Construction Guide

Section: 9

Page: 3

Continuous Vent

Log siding over stud wall

Stud Wall Log Wall

Shown here is the exterior snow blocking under a covered porch. A studwall is built on top of the log wall, recessed approximately 3/8” to allow the siding to fit flush with the log wall. A continuous vent strip provides an air entryway for the ventilated roof system.

CAULKING ON TOP DOUBLE TOP PLATE FOR GABLE WALL FRAMING 7/16 O.S.B. WITH ROOFING FELT ON TOP ISOVENT INSULATION PANEL 2x6 T&G WITH FELT VAPOR BARRIER ON TOP

4x 8

8" OLY

HO US E

RA FT ER

CONTINUOUS VENT IN STUD WALL BETWEEN COURSES OF SIDING TO ALLOW AIR FLOW TO VENTED RIDGE CAP (BY OTHERS) 12" LAG BOLT-BY OWNER FASCIA

RAFTERS & JOISTS INSET FOR SIDING 16"

4x8 SIDE PLATE

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Construction Guide

Section: 9

Page: 4

EXTERIOR FASCIA INSTALLATION Use the same species of wood for all exterior trim work. Refer back to the section on installing exterior doors and windows for information on this subject. Fascia usually refers to the trim boards used on the roof system. You will need to use a 1x material to cover the roof system OSB, the blocking around the perimeter of the roof insulation, and the 2x6 tongue & groove roof decking. You may find it easier to apply the exterior preservative to the fascia boards before installing.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 9

Page: 5

If guttering is to be installed on the home, then the rafter tails need to be cut with a vertical cut. The fascia is installed along the rafter ends, and a flat, vertical plane exists so that gutters may be installed. If stepped fascia is to be used with guttering, the gutter will likely cover the top piece of fascia on the low end of the roof. Money can be saved by only stepping the fascia where gutters will not be installed (bottom left photo).

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Construction Guide

Section: 9

Page: 6

If guttering will not be used, the rafter tails can be cut in a perpendicular fashion as shown in the photos below. Failure to use guttering can cause increased maintenance or deterioration of wood that is not maintained.

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Section: 9

Page: 7

Conventionally framed roof systems are shown on this page. The soffit areas and overhang areas must be covered from the underneath side. The photos on this page show conventionally framed roofs before the soffit covering has been installed.

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Construction Guide

Section: 9

Page: 8

Conventionally framed roof systems are shown on this page. The soffit areas and overhang areas have been covered from the underneath side with 1x T&G.

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Construction Guide

Section: 9

Page: 9

Premier exposed beam roofs are shown here. The Premier roof does not require that any soffit and overhang areas be built or covered from the underneath side as on the previous two pages.

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Construction Guide

Section: 9

Page: 10

The subfloor band may be covered with matching log siding. It is best to rip the face off of the bottom half log before installing the log wall system. This will allow a whole piece of siding to cover the half log and create a smooth transition from logs to siding along the subfloor band. Extra logs may be cut into small pieces and attached at the corners to create a log look at the subfloor band corner as shown below.

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Construction Guide

Section: 9

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Log Wall Here, two courses of log profile siding cover the subfloor band below the log wall. The bottom piece was ripped down to accommodate the rock facing covering the foundation walls. Notice the block that was used at the corner of the subfloor . Stacked stone was used to cover the concrete block foundation here.

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Log Siding

Construction Guide

Section: 9

Page: 12

The photos at left show how the foundation stone was installed all the way up to the bottom of the logs. The stone covers the foundation and the subfloor band. It is important to create a sloped top ledge on the stonework to prevent water from seeping under the logs. The 2 photos below show the subfloor band covered with a piece of finish 1x12 board. A colored flashing was used to keep the water from running behind the subfloor skirt. Other materials to cover a subfloor skirt are cedar shakes or beveled lap siding (not shown).

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Construction Guide

Section: 9

Page: 13

Deck and porch floors may also be skirted with finish quality boards, sidings or shakes as shown at right:

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Construction Guide

Section: 9

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There may be may different areas of your log home that are covered with some sort of siding. There are several ways to terminate the siding into a corner. Top Left: L-shaped 2x4â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s to form corner to butt siding into. Middle Left: Siding cut on a 45degree angle. Lower Left: Siding butts into a special made corner cap. Below: Siding butts into stone veneer.

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The least expensive and most common method used for corners with sided areas is shown at left. A simple 2x4 was used and cut on a 45-degree angle. Two pieces were placed at the corner to form a 90degree angle.

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Construction Guide

Section: 9

Page: 16

All of the sided areas shown here used an 8-inch round corner cap to form the corner. The corner caps are shown in detail on the next page.

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Construction Guide

Section: 9

Page: 17

Above and left: 6x6 square corner caps shown. These include screws to attach the corner from the inside of the framed wall corner so the screws do not show. Available in larger sizes such as 8x8 and up. Can be hand hewn.

Below and right: 8-inch round corner cap shown. Includes screws for mounting from the inside. Available up to 12-inch round. Can be draw-knife finished.

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Construction Guide

Section: 9

Page: 18

Many different types of sidings available: Upper Left: Board-and-Batten in the gable end and cedar shake on the gable dormer. Middle Left: Stucco Lower Left: 8-inch cedar beveled siding. Below (2): Matching Log Profile

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Construction Guide

Section: 9

Page: 19

These photos show an Eastern White Cedar shake that has been machine cut, then re-squared and re-butted for easy installation. Upper photo: The shakes were installed on an alternating staggered pattern. Left photos (3): Shakes are installed on a straight line pattern for a cleaner look.

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Section: 9

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The photo at right shows a timberframe home using Western Red Cedar shakes installed on an alternating pattern.

Lower Left photo shows hand-split cedar shakes. Lower Right: Western Red Cedar machine split cedar shakes on an alternating pattern.

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Construction Guide

Section: 9

Page: 20

Above: Handcrafted Englemann Spruce railing. Below: Heavy timber square railing has a 4x6 top and bottom rail with 3x3 pickets.

Below: Iron railing featuring hammered metal pickets and decorative crosses. Posts are 8-inch round. Top and bottom rail are 3-inch round. Special cups hold Newell posts in place.

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Top left: Cypress 1x6 top and bottom rails with rhododendron branches. Middle Left: 4x6 top and bottom rail with decorative wooden pickets. Lower Left: Treated 2x4 top and bottom rails with treated 2x2 pickets (least expensive of all railings). Lower right: 8x8 Cedar posts, 2x6 cedar top rail, powder coated iron pipe horizontal railing. Upper right: Round White cedar railing bored to accept doweled pickets. Also comes in white pine.

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Section: 9

Page: 22

The picture directly below shows the end of a log building with a conventional roof system and matching log siding in the gable end. The building looks good, but it is rather plain. The lower left phot shows the same end of the building after an exterior dress-up package was installed. The trusses, eave brackets and garage door shed roof timbers were all fully pre-cut. The pieces were simply assembled and screwed to the existing building. A dress-up kit can be designed for your home and is relatively inexpensive.

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Construction Guide

Section: 9

Page: 23

The upper left picture shows a typical gable end with conventional roof. A dress-up kit was designed and factory pre-cut to transform a rather plain gable end into a very interesting and beautiful part of the structure. The lower left picture shows several other exterior accent pieces available for your home.

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Construction Guide

Section: 9

Page: 24

Exteriors can be dressed up with roof overhang extensions, extended porches, false handcrafted purlins tucked under roof overhangs, handcrafted porch posts and plates, etc.

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Construction Guide

Section: 9

Page: 25

Exteriors can be enhanced with hand hewing, stone work, timberframe brackets, timberframe trusses and exterior accent lighting.

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Section: 9

Page: 26

Section 10 Interior Walls and Stairs

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INTERIOR PARTITION WALLS AND LOG SETTLEMENT Log homes will naturally settle to some extent. Therefore, proper log home construction must incorporate preventive mechanisms to protect various components of the home from damage. For instance, the previous section on exterior door and window installation describes one such mechanism, the “floating” rough opening frame, which protects windows and doors. Another protective device employed in proper log home construction is the “floating” interior stud wall. This protects interior main floor walls from being stressed in any way by the natural log settlement. There are two basic aspects of the floating stud wall that need be discussed. First, those main floor stud walls that attach to log walls must allow the log wall to settle without moving or binding the stud wall. This is accomplished by cutting grooves in the stud which join the log wall and nailing the stud to the wall through these grooves. This adheres the stud to the log wall, but allows the log to move independently of the stud. Another method is to sandwich strips of 1/2-inch plywood between two 2x4’s (or between three 2x6’s for a 6” stud wall - shown) and to bolt through the slots created by the plywood.

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The studwall at left joins the rounded surface of the log wall. The let-in post is attached to the log wall with lag bolts secured through the space in the let in post. This allows the log wall to float, and the lag screws can move with the log wall without binding the studwall. The lags should not be tightened so tightly that they cannot slide when the logs settle. Here, wood blocks were used to act as washers. The blocks will allow the lag to slide easier. Since the wall covering for the studwall will butt into a rounded log wall surface, a groove was cut into the rounded log wall surface to allow the wall covering to recess into the log wall.

The second aspect of the floating stud wall concept allows for the second floor system and/or roof system to settle downward without binding the main floor walls underneath. For example, if the log walls settle one inch, then the second floor system and roof system which sit on top of these log walls will also settle one inch. This movement must not bind the stud wall. This is accomplished by leaving about two-inches of space between the top plate of the stud wall and the final top plate which would be attached to the bottom of the second floor decking, joists, or girders. The location of the stud wall is marked on the subfloor and the stud wall is constructed in a normal fashion, except that it stops two inches short of the bottom of the second floor. Sixty-penny nails or screws are used to attach the stud wall to the bottom of the second floor by nailing through predrilled holes in the top plate and into the bottom of the second floor above it. This prevents the wall from moving laterally. However, if the logs settle downward, the second floor system is not held up by the stud walls, for its weight will simply push the sixty-penny nails or screws downward and will not bind the stud wall. Interior wall coverings, such as sheetrock will go up to the top plate of the stud wall only. The space above will be covered with a trim board that is nailed to the 2x plate on the bottom of the second floor. The trim board will fit flush against Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 10

Page: 2

the sheetrock below but is not nailed to the sheetrock or stud wall. The trim board will then move as the second floor moves and will simply slide by the wall covering without binding it. Screws are used to secure the top plate to the bottom of the second floor where needed. The screws must either have a smooth shank or be secured through predrilled holes so they will move downward with the second floor as the logs settle. The screws give the studwall lateral stability. A 2-inch settling space should be left between the top of the studwall and the bottom of the second floor member. Trim boards will be attached to the to of the studwalls using brad-nails. The second floor will gently nudge the trim boards downward as the logs settle.

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Section: 10

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In the case of a wall under the center second floor girder beam, the floating stud wall may be fastened directly to the bottom of the girder beam. However, a 2x plate attached to the bottom of the girder may be needed as a nailable base for trim boards to be installed later. Or, the studwall may not need screws through its top plate and into the bottom of the girder. If the studwall is attached to a let-in post on one end and an adjustable post on the other, it may have enough lateral stability and may not need the screws. The adjustable posts previously installed under the center girder beam are yet another safeguard against damage from log settlement. This mechanism prevents having an unlevel second floor system by allowing you to lower the center of the second floor system if it gets out of level due to the log settlement. On exposed posts, the screw jack assembly is placed on the bottom of the post. The post is then toe nailed directly to the 6x12 girder beam. On hidden support posts (made from4-2x4â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nailed together to form a post), it is very important to place the screw jack on the top of the post. By putting the screw jack on the top of the post, you will not bind the stud wall in any way should you need to lower the screw jack. See the picture below for further details.

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Section: 10

Page: 4

PICTURE AT LEFT SHOWS INCORRECT JACK PLACEMENT. In the incorrect picture, the jack was placed at the bottom of a post that will be enclosed in the studwall. If the sheetrock man nails his drywall to the post, and then the post is lowered by adjusting the jack, the sheetrock will be damaged.

BOTTOM PICTURE SHOWS CORRECT JACK PLACEMENT. In the correct picture, the post will not move when the jack is adjusted. Therefore, the wall covering that is attached to the post will not be damaged when the jack is adjusted.

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In story-and-a-half log homes, second floor stud-walls should be built rigid all the way to the roof. These walls and the roof sit on top of the log walls. As the log walls settle, the upper walls and roof move as on rigid unit. No settling spaces are required in this instance. In two story homes where the log walls are stacked tow full stories, the second floor studwalls will require flotation and settling spaces as previously discussed. The basic rule of thumb is that all walls above the logs are built rigid.

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Section: 10

Page: 6

The photo at left shows a support post on the first floor level. The post supports the second floor system that sits on top of the log wall system. Adjustment devices, flotation and settling spaces as previously discussed are required in all walls on this level of the home. If the home has two full stories of log walls, then these same mechanisms are required on the second level as well.

The photo at left shows a support post running from the second floor to the ridge. In storyand-a-half log homes, where the upper floor spaces are created by the roof system sitting on top of the first floor log walls, no adjustment mechanism is required for this support post. Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

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Section: 10

Page: 7

It is best to construct 2x6 or larger stud walls where you plan to run large plumbing, air conditioning, etc. upward through the wall.

When plumbing is run from the first floor up through the second floor to an upstairs fixture, the plumbing should have flexibility built into it. If the plumbing is rigid, then lowering the second floor and the fixture sitting on top of the second floor will put downward pressure on the plumbing and may cause problems. The two diagrams below illustrate a means of adding flexibility to plumbing on the first floor. When constructed in this manner, the plumbing will not be put in a bind when the second floor is lowered. hard copper pipe

upper floor

Upper floor

rigid water supply pipe secure pipe to floor framing

secure pipe to floor framing

flexible water supply pipe

an inspection panel is suggested for maintenance purposes

an inspection panel is suggested for maintenance purposes soft copper pipe

hard copper pipe

rigid water supply pipe

secure pipe at other end

secure pipe

Using a combination of flexible water supply pipe and rigid pipe to allow for needed settling in second-story plumbing.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Using a combination of hard and soft copper supply pipe to allow for needed settling in second-story plumbing.

Construction Guide

Section: 10

Page: 8

Some rigid structures in a log home, such as a chimney, may extend from the foundation or first floor, through the second level of the home and out the roof. Such structures must have allowances for settling built into them when constructed, or they must be closed in and trimmed-out in a manner that allows settling to occur without damage. The illustration at right shows the proper way to trim-out a chimney that is rigidly constructed from the first floor through the roof. Since there is no easy way to build a slip joint or other settling mechanism into the chimney itself, the chimney must be trimmed out to allow the roof and/or second floor to slide down the chimney. The chase constructed in the roof and/or second floor must not attach directly to the chimney. Any stone veneer on the chimney must not run all the way to the roof or second floor. It should stop short so the roof or second floor can come down without putting pressure on the stone.

Side flashing steppedup in sections to align with the roof 's pitch, or install flashing in a kerf cut into the masonry at the roof's pitch.

Vertical section through roof and chimney

Larger-than-normal overlap of flashing over counterflashing to allow for settling

A cricket flashing is advised at this location

chimney

DO NOT allow chimney to contact logs or roof system at any time unless allowances are made for settling.

purlin

Notice the stone veneer stops short of the interior ceiling line. This will allow the roof to settle without touching or putting pressure on the stone veneer. The block layer of the chimeny passes through the roof through a hole in the roof. The hole is slightly larger than the chimney dimensions to allow the roof to slide down freely over time as settling occurs. Flashing installed with the finished roofing seals the slip joint from weather.

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Construction Guide

Section: 10

Page: 9

Any structure that is rigid from top to bottom and passes through the roof should be constructed and/or trimmed-out in such a way to allow the roof to slide downward along the structure wothout causing damage. For example, in a single story log home where a plumbing vent pipe runs from the first floor plumbing through the roof, and the pipe is rigid over itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s entire vertical length, the vent must pass through the roof system in a manner that allows the roof to slide down the pipe rather than force downward pressure on the pipe and plumbing below. The diagram at right illustrates this principle.

Roof settles down around vent, and flashing is designed for settling movement flashing

roof system (rafters, decking, ceiling)

settling space

vent pipe

If the vent pipe is attached to the roof in such a way that the roof will not slide over the pipe, then there should be a section of flexible pipe or a compression fitting built into the vent pipe structure. Drill hole in blocking so that coupling is flush with bottom, and blocking can push on top of coupling.

(Shown without roofing, for clarity.)

frame wall

NOTE: All settling is adjusted for with compression fittings. Roof flashing is normal.

secure vent at Ell with blocking or plumbing straps

blocking coupling settling space

Use a series of compression/ expansion fittings to accommodate the settling

Support lowest compression fitting on blocking. Compression/ expansion fittings must be supported at top and bottom in some

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 10

Page: 10

Fireplace openings may sometimes be made in a log wall. Settling should be allowed for in this instance. The opening should have a vertical rough opening frame attached to the log walls through slots (see section on window installation for more detail). The firebox, masonry block, etc. should sit inside the opening and have a minimum two-inches space between its top and the top of the opening in the log wall to allow settling. Fireplace openings may sometimes be made in a log wall. Settling should be allowed for in this instance. The opening should have a vertical rough opening frame attached to the log walls through slots (see section on window installation for more detail). The firebox, masonry block, etc. should sit inside the opening and have a minimum two-inches space between its top and the top of the opening in the log wall to allow settling. After the firebox or insert has been installed, the face of the opening should be covered with plywood sheathing. The plywood should attach to the vertical rough opening frames only, not the log wall itself. The stone veneer attaches to the plywood. This allows the logs to settle around the opening where the fireplace passes through the log wall. The exterior chimney should also be attached to the log wall through slotted framing members. All other structural members of the chimney chase should attach to these slotted members. The stone veneer should adhere to sheathing attached to the structure. No part of the structure should attach to the log wall except via slotted members. This allows settling to occur unimpeded.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 10

Page: 11

Many fireplaces consist of a firebox or gas insert inside a framed chimney chase with a stone veneer covering. The framing that attaches to the log walls and gable end walls should be attached through slotted lumber. Sheathing or masonry board should be attached to the chimney frame, and stone veneer attached to the sheathing.

Some full masonry fireplaces may pass through a log wall from top to bottom. The opening in the log wall should be cased out with a heavy frame. The frame is attached to the log ends through slots. The fireplace is attached to the frame. The stone veneer must stop short of the roof to allow the roof to slide down the concrete block during settling and not be held up by the stone. This space can be covered with trim work as shown above.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 10

Page: 12

These pictures show one way to attach a framed wall to a log wall. For contoured surfaces, a wall slot may be made to recess the framed wall into. The end stud of the framed wall should be slotted. The end stud is attached into the wall slot by nailing through the slots in the stud. The log wall will be able to settle without being held up by the opposing studwall.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 10

Page: 13

A NOTE ABOUT LOG SETTLEMENT Don’t be discouraged by all the discussion on log wall settlement. It is rare that any adjustments to the second floor system are ever made after construction is complete. The logs have usually done most of their settling by the time construction has been completed. However, as the old adage says, “better safe than sorry.” All safeguards against log settlement damage should be employed. Before sheetrock installation and before the home is trimmed out completely, (adjustable screw jacks are still exposed), the second floor system should be carefully checked to see that it is level. At this time all adjustments to lower or raise the center of the second floor should be made. The center of the floor supported by the 6x12 girder should be set 3/8inches low (lower than the log walls) using the adjustable screw jacks. A 3/8-inch drop from log wall to girder beam is not noticeable. This action will allow for even further log settlement without noticeably affecting the levelness of the second floor. If the logs settle even a full 3/4-inch more after this, the center girder will only be 3/8-inch high, which is not a noticeable amount. However, if further settlement does cause the center of the second floor to be noticeably high, simply access the screw jacks and lower it to its proper level.

Handcrafted log homes will generally settle considerably more than milled homes. The typical handcrafted home will settle 3 to 4 inches in 9feet. All settling mechanisms and allowances should be installed to allow 6 inches of settling.

2X6 T&G DECKING NOTCH 6X12 BEAM INTO LOG WALL 3". TOP OF LOG WALL AND TOP OF 6X12 SHOULD BE THE SAME HEIGHT.

SPLICE IN 6X12 BEAM MUST BE OVER THE SCREW JACK ASSEMBLY

1X4 OR 1X6 TOP TRIM NAILER BY OTHERS

6X12 SECOND FLOOR GIRDER BEAM

PRE-DRILL 3/8" HOLE THROUGH TOP PLATE FOR 7" SPIKE USED TO ATTACH TOP OF STUD WALL TO GIRDER FOR LATERAL STABILITY TURN END STUDS EDGEWISE AND FASTEN TO LOG WALL WITH 1/2"x6" LAG SCREWS AND WASHERS. (BY OTHERS) SEE END STUD DETAIL 1/2" X 6" LAG SCREW AND WASHER BY OTHERS 2X10 JOIST 16"O.C.

4X8 SECOND FLOOR JOIST 24" O.C.

SCREW JACK ASSEMBLY FOR POST ADJUSTMENT TO ALLOW FOR PROPER LOG SETTLEMENT INTERIOR STUD WALLS SHOULD NOT BE BUILT UP AGAINST SUPPORT BEAMS OR SECOND FLOOR JOIST. THEY SHOULD "FLOAT" OR ALLOW A MIN. CLEARANCE OF 2" BETWEEN TOP OF STUD WALL AND BEAM OR JOIST.

ALL INTERIOR STUDWALLS ON FIRST FLOOR SHOULD BE FLOATING STUDWALLS.

2" AIR SPACE TO ALLOW GIRDER TO LOWER WITH LOG SETTLEMENT 4-2X4'S FOR INTERIOR POST, POST TO BE SUPPORTED TO GROUND LEVEL

SOLID BLOCKING UNDER ALL POSTS SEE BLOCKING DETAIL

FLOATING STUD WALL

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Construction Guide

Section: 10

Page: 14

1/2"x6" LAG SCREW AND WASHER (BY OTHERS) 7/16" OSB BOARD 2X4 TURNED ON EDGE ALLOW A MIN. OF 2" AIRSPACE BELOW LAG SCREW TO ALLOW SCREW TO SETTLE WITH LOG WALL

LOG WALL

END STUD DETAIL 4X8 SECOND FLOOR JOISTS 24" O.C. NOTCH 6X12 BEAM INTO LOG WALL 3". TOP OF LOG WALL AND TOP OF 6X12 SHOULD BE SAME HEIGHT.

2X6 T&G SECOND FLOOR DECKING 6X12 SECOND FLOOR GIRDER BEAM

1/2"X 6" LAG SCREW AND WASHER (BY OTHERS)

DOUBLE TOP PLATE

TURN END STUD'S EDGEWISE AND FASTEN TO LOG WALL WITH 1/2" X 6" LAG SCREWS AND WASHERS BY OTHERS

2X4 STUD WALL 16" O.C.

SEE PLAN FOR LOG STYLE. SINGLE BOTTOM PLATE

3D VIEW OF GIRDER AND FLOATING STUDWALL ATTACHMENT TO LOG WALL Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 10

Page: 15

INTERIOR STAIRS You should check your local building codes before building your staircase as to minimum requirements for rise and tread depth. The interior stairs are, of course, attached to the second floor system. Therefore, the stairs must also be constructed in such a way as to not hold up the second floor system during log settlement. This is accomplished with an adjustable screw jack assembly on top of or below the post, depending on whether or not the post is exposed, which supports the second floor at the top of the stairs. Build a 6x12 header or a double 4x8 header underneath the second floor where the stairs attach. Support this header not with rigid posts, but with adjustable posts. As the second floor lowers with log settlement, keep an eye on the second floor area near the stairs and lower with the adjustable screw jacks if necessary. All Tennessee Log Homesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; stair packages include screw jack assemblies and 2x4â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s with which you may construct adjustable posts. The screw jacks will be hidden away behind removable trim boards when the home is trimmed out. The top of the stairs should be bolted to the girder or header in such a manner that if settling occurs, the stair bolts may be loosened, the screw jacks lowered, and then the stair bolts re-tightened after the 6x12 beam has been lowered.

2X6 T&G DECKING.

4X8 JOIST 24"O.C.

SAMPLE RISE DIMENSIONS:

1 1/2" NOSING 6X6 ADJUSTABLE POST

3X12 STRINGER

SCREW JACK ASSEMBLY

11'-2- 1/2"

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 10

Page: 16

LOG STYLE VARIES HEIGHT DIM.

3X12 TREAD

8'-9"

13 STEPS= 8 5/64" RISE 14 STEPS= 7 1/2" RISE 15 STEPS= 7" RISE

6X12 BEAM

The above stairs were made on the jobsite from the standard heavy timber stair package shipped with many Tennessee Log Homes. The package consists of 3x12 timbers for stringers and treads. No nosing is included. The stair below was made on site from the heavy timber stair package. However, this plan calls for a closet under the stair. The builder purchased 1x8 nosing and closed in the vertical area between step treads. The treads were sandwiched between the stringers. On the outer stringer (the one exposed to view, a second 3x12 stringer was attached to hide the lag screws installed through the inner stringer to attach the treads. The outer stringer could be a 1x12 purchased at the loacal building supply store. It is used simply as a trim board.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 10

Page: 17

Mortise-and-tennon style staircase.

The stair case pictured above was made on site using the heavy timber stair package shipped with many Tennessee Log Homes. The stair package consists of 3x12 heavy timber stringers and treads. The builder prepared the stringers by using a router to cut notches to hold the treads. The treads were sandwiched between the stringers and were tennoned into the notches in the stringers. The outer exposed stringer had a second notch cut into the first notch to allow the smaller end of the tread to pass through. The treads are shown below left. Once the treads were installed, a hole was drilled in the end, and a dowel rod was used for to lock the stringer and treads together.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 10

Page: 18

The stair case shown here was pre-cut at the Tennessee Log Homes factory. It is a mortise-andtennon style staircase with the treads passing through the stringers and locking into place with a wedge-shaped piece of wood. The pre-cut stair is very precise and requires no additional cutting on site. Only installation is required. Optional railing can be attached to the outer stringer on site with ease. Landings as shown in the lower photo are generally not included in the package and are generally constructed of common building materials purchased at a local building supply. Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 10

Page: 19

There are several types of stair cases made from round material. The illustration above shows three main types. The two photos below show a staircase made on site using half round material. The package included 12-inch half round material for stringers and treads. The builder used a router to cut a half round notch into the stringers to accept the treads. The treads were lagged to the string in countersunk holes. The holes were pegged with dowel rod to hide the lags.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 10

Page: 20

The upper three photos shown here are a half round staircase that was pre-cut at the Tennessee Log Homes factory. The half round treads are cut to create a rectangular tennon on each end. Docorative cuts are made to remove square edges. the stringers are mortised to accept the squared ends, and the treads are sandwiched between the stringers. Landing material of like kind with stair and loft (shown below) may be purchased seperately or pre-built at the Tennessee Log Homes factory.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 10

Page: 21

Top two photos show a staircase with half round treads and square 6x12 stringers. The middle photo shows a saddle style staircase that was pre-built at the Tennessee log Homes factory. The two stringers are full round log with saddle notches cut on top. The half round treads cradle in these notches. Staircases usually rest upon the second floor, which may be lowered in time as the log walls settle. The top of the stair should attach to the second floor in such a way that the stair connection may be disconnected when and if the second floor system is lowered. The bottom of the stair can be attached to the floor so it may slide as the second floor system is lowered. This will slightly change the level of the stair treads.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 10

Page: 22

These stairs were made on site from the standard 3x12 Douglas Fir stair package. The stairs were laid out to fit the stair-well opening. The location of the treads was marked on the inside of the stringers with a pencil. Square mortises were cut with a router and chisel to accept the treads. Tread and stringer square edges may be eased with a sander.

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Construction Guide

Section: 10

Page: 23

Section 11 Electrical - Plumbing - HVAC

1-800-251-9218 www.tnloghomes.com

ELECTRICAL Before beginning any electrical work, contact your local building inspector’s office for local code compliance. Local codes supersede anything mentioned in this manual or in the blueprints. The bulk of the electrician’s work is done after the dry-in phase of construction is complete. However, the electrician should be contracted and consulted early in the construction process to approve and supervise wiring in the second floor system, Premier Roof System, and in the log wall system. This wiring is pulled early in the dry-in process. Refer back to sections on Log Erection, Second Floor Installation and Roof System Framing for detailed information on electrical wiring. Have all wiring practices approved by and supervised by your electrician. Holes for wiring to outlet boxes in log walls should be drilled when your log erection crew is installing the logs (see previous section entitled LOG ERECTION). As the crew drills these holes, they will want to mark the location of those holes on the subfloor. Make sure the drilled holes go all the way through the subfloor. The next step will be to cut out the outlet box holes in the log walls. The following diagrams illustrate common placement of outlet boxes with each available log style, but you should check your local building codes for “height-above-subfloor” requirements.

Use a long, auger type bit with a minimum diameter of one inch to drill through logs and subfloor for electrical wiring. All outlet locations should be marked lightly on the face of the log.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 11

Page: 1

A good way to notch out an outlet box is to mark the outline of the box on the log wall using the actual box as the pattern. Then drill a series of 1-inch to 1-1/2-inch holes within the perimeter of that outline using a butterfly bit or hole-saw bit. The holes can then be cleaned by using a chisel and/or reciprocating saw. Plunge the wiring hole to remove chips and sawdust with a stiff piece of wire. Drilling holes and cutting outlet boxes into log walls should be a part of the dry-in process.

Here, wiring is run from on top of the logs through the door jamb. It is brought through a channel drilled through the logs into the recess for the switch box. Before beginning any electrical installation, check local codes for compliance.

Wiring Channel

X To cut outlet boxes and light switch receptacles, place an actual box against the log wall and trace around it directly above the channel drilled during log erection. Use butterfly drill bits, reciprocating saws and chisels to cut away a cavity for the outlet box. Check local codes for compliance.

Rough-Opening Frame

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 11

Page: 2

Wiring to kitchen and bath outlets above counters and vanities can be recessed into the log wall behind the cabinet. These do not need to be drilled through each course of logs. Mark the finished height of the cabinet and countertop on the log wall, then locate the outlet above the backsplash per your local building codes. Mark the outlet location on the log wall and cut out a hole for the receptacle box. Directly under the outlet box location and below the top of the backsplash, make a series of vertical cuts in the log wall with a circular saw. This creates a recessed channel in which you may run your wiring behind the cabinet. Cut all the way to the subfloor on the bottom and all the way to the backsplash on the top. Do not cut above the top of the backsplash. Use a 1inch auger to drill a hole up to bottom of the outlet box location. Once this hole is drilled to below the top-of-backsplash mark, drill into the log wall at the top of the recessed channel. To connect the recessed channel to the hole from the bottom of the outlet box. The channel and wire should be covered with nail guards to prevent a nail from being driven through the wiring.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

For outlet boxes above kitchen and vanity, a groove can be cut into the face of the log wall using a router bit. Wiring can be recessed into the groove, and the groove and wiring will be hidden behind the cabinetry.

Construction Guide

Section: 11

Page: 3

To install light switch outlets in log walls, locate the switch near an exterior door whenever possible. Wiring for these switches should be run in the area between the doorjamb and the rough opening frame. A horizontal wiring channel can then be drilled over to the switch location through the end of the log at the door opening. The outlet box location should be cut out as previously described. Wiring from this switch box, through the door jamb and down through the subfloor should be done before door and window rough opening frames are installed and should be considered a part of the dry-in phase of construction. There is also a natural channel that is created after the door is installed, between the actual doorframe and the rough opening frame. Usually that area is 1/2”-1” in width, and is also an area in which to run electrical switch wiring. If wiring is run in the doorjamb, you will need to cut the channel deeper to allow wiring to recess behind the spline. Refer back to the section, “Door and Window Installation.”

Here, wiring is run from the top of the logs, behind the snow blocking, through the door jamb area and through a drilled channel in the log to end in the switch. Check local codes for compliance before beginning. The wiring for the outlet box was run from below the subfloor, through the channel drilled during log erection, and out through the hole.

DRILL A HORIZONTAL WIRING CHANNEL FROM AN EXTERIOR DOOR OPENING TO THE LOCATION OF THE LIGHT SWITCH. RUN THE WIRING IN THE AREA BETWEEN DOOR JAMB AND ROUGH OPENING FRAME. BE SURE TO DEEPEN THE CHANNEL IN THE LOG WALL TO ACCOMMODATE THE WIRING PLUS THE DOOR JAMB.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 11

Page: 4

For light fixtures under the second floor system and underneath Premier Roof Systems, you should have the wire pulled during the second floor framing and during roof system framing. Refer to the previous sections, “Second Floor System” and “Roof System Framing.” A good way to mount a light fixture under the second floor system is to recess the outlet box into the 8” face of a short piece of 4x8 (usually left over from the dry-in). This piece of 4x8 can be mounted between the floor joists where the wiring comes in from above.

2x6 Tongue & Groove Decking

The wiring for a premier roof system is run from under the subfloor, through a door jamb to the snow blocking area, along a channel on top of the roof decking, and then through to the desired location of the light fixture. If the light or fan should be attached to the ridge, bring the wiring over to the ridge beam, drill a hole through the ridge beam, run the wire through the hole to a junction box mounted on the bottom of the ridge.

Wiring Run

4x8 Rafter

For light fixtures underneath Premier Roof Systems, the wires should be drilled through the rafter or ridge beam and should hang directly underneath the rafter. For rafters running at an angle, a block of wood may need to be made to mount to the bottom of the rafter. The block should be cut at the angle of the roof pitch to create a bottom flat surface that is level with the house floor. The light will then be mounted on the bottom of the block. Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 11

Page: 5

Wiring under second floors should be channelled into a groove in the tops of the floor joists (see previous section on second floor installation. A half-depth junction box can be used and covered with a piece of lumber to mount a ceiling fan between joists for proper head clearance.

Here an overhead light is mounted between two second floor joists. A â&#x20AC;&#x153;half depthâ&#x20AC;? junction box is recessed into the face of a cross piece which the light is mounted to. Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 11

Page: 6

Wiring in gabled roofs should be installed during roof system installation (see previous section on roof installation). For ceiling fans hanging from ridge beams, the wire can be run through a hole in the ridge beam. The fan can be mounted to the ridge using a decorative wood block to hide junction boxes and wiring. Always get the approval of the local code office concerning electrical wiring runs. Wiring runs shown in this manual may not be acceptable to all building code officials. Preapproval is recommended.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 11

Page: 7

The photos show various wiring runs in a log home in the snow block area. The cavities created between exposed rafters where they sit on top of a log wall is called the snow block area. This is a good place to run wiring. Wiring can be run downward from the snow block area to door openings, then run inside the shimspace of the door opening to a switch location. The snow block area will eventually be insulated with BAT insulation and covered from the inside with finish material. Always check with your local building code office. Some code officials will require the wiring to be in conduit.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 11

Page: 8

These photos show various wiring runs made under a second floor system. Much of the wiring was put into place when the second floor was installed (see previous section on second floor installation). The top photo shows wiring run through the second floor girder beam, through the settling space and into the framed studwall below. The middle photo shows wiring run through two of the second floor joists for lights in the closet and for switches in the framed studwall that control overhead lighting attached to the joist.

It is very important to consider wiring before construction begins. If any of the wires hidden in the second floor beams as shown in the pictures on this page had not been installed during the second floor installation, exposed wiring could be the result. The bottom photo shows one such instance. Notice the exposed conduit along the girder beam in the top right corner of the picture.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 11

Page: 9

Various wiring photos are shown here. At right, the electrical panel was located in the garage. A studwall was built against the log wall of the garage to house the panel. Wiring runs from the panel downward and into the subfloor. Below, wiring recessed into a log wall is run inside of conduit. This will be covered by the baseboard trim. The conduit protects the wire from being nailed through when the trim is installed. The bottom photo shows a good way to mount outlet boxes in contoured log wall surfaces. A wooden box was made from a block of wood, and the outlet box was mounted into the block. The entire block was mounted into the wall.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 11

Page: 10

Exterior floodlights are usually located on the underside of the two-foot roof overhang outside the home. The electrical boxes can be notched into the log or cut into a 7 1/2â&#x20AC;?x7 1/2â&#x20AC;? wood block which would be mounted to the underside of the overhang. The wiring is usually run behind the snowblocking (the areas on top of the log walls but beneath the roof or second floor tongue & groove decking) with the switch runs coming down the doorframes. Wiring for phone lines, cable TV, burglar alarms, etc. , need to be considered before and throughout the construction process and wiring runs coordinated with your electrician. All this wiring is normally run under the subfloor with legs branching upwards at windows/doors, stud walls, and etc. The breaker panel can be mounted in an interior six-inch stud wall. The meter base can be mounted to an exterior log wall with service to the breaker panel entering the crawl space through the subfloor band. There are also several approved areas to mount the breaker box such as garages, utility rooms, and even on the exterior of your home using an approved weatherproof breaker box. To summarize, wiring in a log home should be routed from underneath the subfloor. Wiring (includes cable, phone, etc.) to outlets in log walls runs through holes drilled during log erection. Wiring for switches in log walls is run from underneath, up through doorjambs and over through holes drilled in the end of a log. All outlet box locations in log walls have to be cut and chiseled out. Wiring to overhead lights under an exposed beam second floor system can run from underneath the subfloor, up through stud walls and exterior door jambs (drill through two logs above doorway), through snow-blocking (area directly above log walls and below roof decking which will eventually be insulated and enclosed), through recessed channels in the top of second floor joists (made during second floor installation before second floor decking is installed, then down to light fixture. Wiring to overhead lights under a Premier Roof System can run from under the subfloor, up through exterior door jambs (drill through logs above doorway) or interior stud walls, up through 2x6tongue & groove roof decking and vapor barrier, over the top of the roof decking to the proper location, then down through drilled holes to the light fixture location. The easiest area to run any electrical wiring to the second floor will be through the first floor stud walls.

If your log home is built on a concrete slab where wiring cannot be run under the subfloor, it is recommended that the log walls be set on top of a doubled treated sill plate. The sill plate is anchored to the concrete slab. The sill plate should be narrower than the log wall thickness so that a cavity is created along the baseboard area. Wiring for the log walls can be run in this cavity, then hidden with the finish baseboard. Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 11

Page: 11

PLUMBING Have the plumber scheduled to begin work right after the electrician has finished the “rough-in” wiring. Plumbing should be installed before the heating/air conditioning system. When planning your construction, try to line up second floor bathrooms with first floor bathrooms or closets underneath. This provides a way to conceal the plumbing to and from the upstairs bath. Try to minimize having to box-in plumbing running through the exposed beam second floor system. Use 2x6studs to frame downstairs stud walls through which plumbing will run. All supplies, drains and vents will run in this six-inch wall cavity. Upstairs sink traps will usually be in the vanity cabinet above the second floor level. Commode and tub traps are normally run under the second floor. Make sure that the trap remains above the cavity created by the 4x8 second floor joist (7-1/2-inch vertical distance). The drain would then run in the same cavity to the nearest 6” stud wall. Simply installing 1x6 or 2x6 tongue & groove on the bottom of the 4x8 beams will hide the upstairs plumbing without ruining the look of the downstairs ceiling. Normally, you will be covering an area that is 2’ wide and is the length of the run to the stud wall. It is also a good idea to run supplies and drains at an angle to upstairs baths. This will give you a little “play” in case of log settlement. Most importantly, don’t let your plumber make the decision to cover up your beam work or to make runs in places that simply make his work easier. Try to help in the decision-making process to minimize the amount of “drop ceilings.” If you need some help, please call us at 1-800-251-9218.

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Construction Guide

Section: 11

Page: 12

If you have a bathroom on the upper floor, and the floor system is an exposed beam system, it may be unavoidable that some of the pipes to the upper floor bathroom are left exposed to view. In such cases, the plumbing will need to be hidden by “boxin-in” the plumbing. The area should be framed with 2x4 lumber, then sheathed with sheetrock, tongue-and-groove panelling, or some other sheathing. It is a good idea to create an access door to this plumbing if possible. The bottom photo shows how mechanicals such as plumbing and HVAC were run inside of a closet. The closet ceiling can be dropped to hide the mechanicals. Since the “boxed-in” mechanicals are located in the top of the closet, they will not be so obvious in the finished home. Planning for upper floor plumbing during the design of the home can greatly reduce the occurrence of mechanicals that have to be boxedin.

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Construction Guide

Section: 11

Page: 13

A note about plumbing and log settling: As the log walls settle, the upper floor that sits on top of the log walls will move downward. A plumbing fixture located on the upper floor will also move downward during settling. This downward movement will apply pressure to the plumbing running down from the upstairs fixture. If the plumbing running below the upstairs fixture is rigid, there could be problems. It is recommended that some sort of flexibility be built into all plumbing running upstairs in a log home. The two illustrations at left show the use of flexible water supply pipes or drain pipes. One may also use compression fittings in these downward runs of plumbing from the second floor. Local building supply houses will likely carry these fittings, or your plumber will have access to them. With compression fittings, the rigid sections of pipe should be secured to the second floor and to the studwall through which it runs. This will force compression to take place in the compression fitting. If the pipes are not supported at each end of the rigid sections, this will not force compression to the compression fitting. Your plumber should understand the principle behind the compression fitting and install it properly.

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Construction Guide

Section: 11

Page: 14

HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING After the electrician and plumbing contractors have finished their rough-ins, the heat/air contractor should be scheduled. Most of the ductwork will run under your subfloor with the necessary second floor runs being located behind stud walls upstairs. A good place to run the main trunk lines and returns to the upstairs is in the back of closets or utility rooms. Once the lines are upstairs, individual supply ducts can be run in stud walls and other hidden areas. The best place for this ductwork is behind the upstairs “knee walls.” Knee walls upstairs are those constructed from the floor to the ceiling where the ceiling headroom is reduced to 5-1/2 feet or so due to the roof pitch. You will notice on the second floor plan that dotted lines or walls are drawn and noted as low clearance or App. 5’-0” head clearance where headroom decreases to less than six feet to the downward slope of the roof. It is good to build stud walls here and to run necessary ductwork behind the wall. A good option you may wish to consider is a split heat and air unit. One unit is placed outside, as usual, while a second unit is placed upstairs in a closet or in the low clearance area. This makes heating and cooling a much easier and efficient prospect. Since heat rises, it is often hard to maintain a comfortable temperature upstairs with a single unit. Giving the second floor it’s own unit allows separate controls and therefore keeps a more comfortable temperature for the second floor. For homes with conventional roofs or one-story homes, the ductwork will run like a conventional home, within the truss work or the conventional roof framing cavities. Think about your placement of furniture, rugs, etc. when your contractor is planning his outlet and air return locations. Most importantly, get involved with the heat/air contractor to make sure he understands that you want to hide as much of the ductwork as possible. Try to steer away from the contractor recommending extra walls and chases to be built to hide ductwork. Any extra construction needed will add extra costs. If you need help in deciding where to run the ductwork, do not hesitate to call us at 1-800-251-9218. Normally, a heat/air contractor will estimate the job based on tonnage of the heat pump required to efficiently heat and cool your home. The amount of tons needed depends on the house size. Generally, a ton will serve about 600 square feet. For example, 2400 square feet would take about a 4-ton unit. Leave the estimating to the professionals, because they will figure what will efficiently do the job. Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 11

Page: 15

These top two photos show HVAC lines from the outside unit to interior registers and returns. These are run under the subfloor of the home. The HVAC system should be designed by a local professional. The two bottom photos show air returns on the interior of the home just above the subfloor. It is common that custom size and shape return boxes be built with sheet metal by your HVAC professional.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 11

Page: 16

These photos show HVAC trunk lines that run from under the subfloor upward to the second floor. The trunk lines were run inside of closets so they may be more easily hidden away when the studwalls are covered with sheetrock or tongue-and-groove.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 11

Page: 17

These photos show HVAC returns and registers on the second floor of the home. The top left shows registers inside of a studwall. The top right shows a return in the second floor area. This return was built into the bottom of a linen closet. The bottom photo shows a return unit at the top of the stairs on the second floor. This unit is built into the bottom of a bedroom closet, and the return faces the hall and loft of the second floor. The Tennessee Log Homes Design Department is not qualified to design HVAC systems. What we try to do during the home design phase is to note areas in the home that may be used to build HVAC return units and to hide HVAC trunk lines. Your local HVAC professional should visit the home about the time the interior studwalls begin to be framed so he may beginning planning your system and working with your carpenter to have cavities for return units constructed if necessary. Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 11

Page: 18

These are photos of registers in the second floor area. Each of these if fed by a trunk line running from under the subfloor upward through closets or chases built by your framing crew.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 11

Page: 19

Your HVAC professional may require a separate unit for the second floor. In some cases, the unit may be located inside the home. These photos show one such unit located in a mechanicals closet. Trunk lines were run behind knee walls where head room is very low.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 11

Page: 20

Section 12 Miscellaneous Interior

1-800-251-9218 www.tnloghomes.com

INTERIOR COVERINGS FOR CEILINGS AND WALLS The finished wall subcontractors will be ready to start after all the mechanicals are “roughed-in”, inspected and approved by your appropriate local building code bureaus, and after all batt insulation is installed. Batt insulation should be installed in gable and dormer stud walls, in conventional roof systems (unless blown in) and any interior walls you wish. There are many available coverings for interior ceilings and walls. For wood ceilings and/or walls you may purchase one-inch tongue & groove products in many species of wood. Sheetrock is also a popular option for walls and ceilings. The most important aspect of installing interior wall coverings is to not run the wall covering on main floor walls all the way to the ceiling. All main floor partition walls should be “floating walls” as described in the previous section entitled “Interior Partition Walls” and should have approximately two-inches space above the top plate of the stud wall. The wall covering should stop at the top plate of the stud wall and should not extend upward, covering the space above the top plate. This space was left to allow the second floor to be lowered as the logs settle. Wall coverings installed within two-inches of the main floor ceiling run the risk of being damaged during log settlement. With all second floor walls, however, wall coverings can be run all the way up to the roof. Emphasize to your sheetrock crew the importance of keeping sheetrock mud and paint off of the beams, wood and logs. These objects will be exposed to view when the home is completed and any mud and paint will have to be removed.

Drywall Should Not Cover Settling Space

Second Floor Girder Beam

Settling Space

Studwall Under Second Floor Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 12

Page: 1

Settling Space Under Second Floor System The above photograph shows the studwalls of a 1-1/2 story log home that have been covered with sheetrock. The sheetrock upstairs was run all the way to the ceiling. Walls on the upper floor do not have settling mechanisms, as the entire roof, second floor and second floor studwalls sit on top of the log walls. The sheetrock downstairs was installed so as not to cover the settling space built into the floating studwalls under the second floor. Studwalls under the second floor have settling mechanisms built in, and the settling space should not be covered with the sheetrock. The next page shows how these walls were trimmed out to hide the settling space while allowing settling to occur without damaging the sheetrock. Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section:12

Page: 2

The settling space shown on the previous page was covered with a trim board. The trim board is attached to the upper part of the studwall only, above the settling space. As the logs settle, it may be necessary to lower the center of the second floor using the screw jacks under the girder beam. Since the trim board is attached to the top part of the studwall, and not the bottom part, the trim board will simply slide over the sheetrock on the studwall below the settling space. Lowering the second floor will not bind the sheetrock.

Settling Space Covered With Trim Board Attached To Upper Part Of Wall Only

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 12

Page: 3

The settling space shown in the top photo will be covered with a trim board (see bottom photo).

Settling Space Covered With Trim Board Attached To Lower Part Of Wall Only

In this instance, the trim board is attached to the lower part of the studwall only, below the settling space. As the logs settle, it may be necessary to lower the center of the second floor using the screw jacks under the girder beam. Since the trim board is attached to the lower part of the studwall, and not the upper part, the second floor will simply slide behind the trim board on the studwall below the settling space. Lowering the second floor will not bind the sheetrock or the trim board. The reason that this board was attached to the bottom part of the wall is that it is a wide board and is touching the top of the door frame in the studwall below it.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 12

Page: 4

These photos show studwalls covered with a 1-inch tongue-andgroove (T&G) product. The top photo shows the T&G installed at an angle. The middle photo shows the T&G installed in two different patterns on the same wall. The bottom photo shows the T&G installed vertically.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 12

Page: 5

Sheetrock is a popular selection for studwall coverings in log homes. The top photo shows studwalls under a second floor system that have been covered with sheetrock. The sheetrock stops shot of the settling space at the top of the studwalls, and the settling space is covered with a trim board. The sheetrock under the stair case was installed on the outside of the stair stringer. If the second floor center girder is lowered, the stairs will slide behind the sheetrock. The sheetrock is not attached to the stair stringer. The middle photo shows sheetrock on upstairs studwalls where settling mechanisms are not needed. Therefore, the sheetrock runs all the way to the ceiling. The edges of the sheetrock were covered with 1x2 trim boards. The bottom photo shows sheetrock under a second floor. There is settling space above the sheetrock, and it has been hidden with a 1x2 trim board attached to the second floor beam only. The trim board will side over the sheetrock if the second floor is lowered. The area above the girder beam and between the joists is called the snowblock area. These cavities were covered with a 1x8 trim board. A nailing block was attached to each side of each joist, and the trim board was nailed to the block.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 12

Page: 6

In many log homes, some or all of the roof will be conventionally framed and will need some sort of ceiling liner. One of the most popular materials to use in such instances is 1x6 or 1x8 T&G. These photos show homes with conventional roofs. The interior ceilings were covered with a 1x T&G.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 12

Page: 7

The homes shown on this page also have a conventional roof system with the interior ceiling covering being 1x T&G. These roofs were stick-framed with conventional 2x10 lumber. The roofs were insulated using B.A.T. Insulation. The interior ceilings were covered during the finish stages of construction from underneath the roof. The T&G ceiling was then sealed with a clear finish interior sealant.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 12

Page: 8

Sheetrock may also be used to cover the ceiling area of conventionally framed roofs. The two photos on this page show log homes with scissor truss roofs. Scissor trusses allow an interior cathedral ceiling. The roof was insulated with B.A.T. Insulation, and the sheetrock was installed from underneath the roof.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 12

Page: 9

INTERIOR STAINING / SEALING All wood products to be stained (log walls, tongue &groove walls, beams, etc.) should be prepared using the stain manufacturerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s specifications. Sanding may also be needed before staining. A random orbital sander is the best tool for this task. You should also apply a sealant to your interior wood products after staining (some products are stain and sealant combined). This is usually a clear finish varnish-type product and can be sprayed on with an airless sprayer. Back brushing is usually required to prevent running. Refer to the manufacturerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s installation instructions for exact procedures for applying interior stains and sealants. Be certain that the wood is clean and free from unsightly stains and marks before applying a sealant to the wood.

Remember....any unsightly stains and marks not cleaned before sealing will likely be visible for the life of your home. It is best to spend extra time cleaning and preparing wood before sealing. Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 12

Page: 10

Other areas to be trimmed include all doors and windows.

NOTE: It is vital that all space around exterior doors and windows be stuffed with insulation before being trimmed. In general, there will be a fair amount of shim space and/or settling space around doors and windows, particularly those in log walls. This space must be filled with insulation to prevent air infiltration before the finish trim is installed. Failure to do so will allow tremendous air infiltration and heat loss. (NOTE:) Never use blow foam around doors or windows.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 12

Page: 11

Other areas to be trimmed include all doors and windows.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 12

Page: 12

Other areas to be trimmed include all doors and windows. Be certain to insulate the snow block area before covering with trim. There are many ways to trim out the snowblock area. The top photo shows horizontal T&G. The middle photo shows a single 1x12 board ripped to the exact height of the snowblock area. The bottom left photo shows vertical T&G. The bottom right photo shows sheetrock.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 12

Page: 13

These photos show other areas that may need to be trimmed

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 12

Page: 14

Kitchen cabinets that attach to a log wall should be screwed to the log wall in a special manner. For upper cabinets, the top of the cabinet can be screwed to a single log so that it is hanging on that one log. The bottom of the cabinet will attach to a different log lower in the log wall. This attachment at the bottom of the cabinet should be made through a slot. A screw and flat washer should be used to snug the bottom of the cabinet to the log wall. If a cabinet sits on the floor and attaches to the log wall, the top of the cabinet should be attached through a slot cut in the cabinet. The principle is that the log walls will settle behind the cabinets, and the cabinets should be secured to the log wall in a manner that allows the settling to occur without damaging the cabinetry.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 12

Page:15

Cabinets that attach to log walls should be attached in a manner that allows settling to occur without damaging the cabinet. For base cabinets that sit on the floor, small slots should be cut in the top piece of the cabinet where it wall attach to the log wall. Since the bottom sits on the floor, the lower part of the cabinet can be attached to the bottom log without using slots. The upper attachment needs to be made throug a slot. The screw should be set so that there is an inch or more of slot above the screw. A flat washer should be used. Upper cabinets secured to a log wall should not use slots at the top. This attachment will be made to a single log, and the cabinet will hang from that log and move with that log as settling occurs. Therefore, the bottom of the cabinet needs to be attached through a slot. The screw should be set in the slot so that an inch or more of the slot is above the screw. A flat washer should be used. The screws should not be tightened too tight. Do not attach a countertop to a log wall. It should attach to the cabinet only. The log wall should simply slide behind the counter top backsplash.

Tennessee Log Homes, Inc.

Construction Guide

Section: 12

Page: 16

Appendix

1-800-251-9218 www.tnloghomes.com

APPENDIX A STANDARD CONSTRUCTION DETAILS

FOUNDATION A3. SAMPLE FOUNDATION PLAN A4. TYPICAL CRAWL SPACE A5. TYPICAL BASEMENT A6.SUBFLOOR DIAGONALS A7. PORCH & DECK ATTACHMENT A8. LOG WALL TO SUBFLOOR CONNECTION

LOG WALL CONSTRUCTION A9. LOG LAYOUT DIAGRAM A10. SAMPLE SADDLE NOTCH LOG CUT SHEET A11. SAMPLE DOVETAIL LOG CUT SHEET A12. SAMPLE BUTT & PASS LOG CUT SHEET A13. BUTT & PASS CORNER DETAIL A14. SAMPLE ELECTRICAL PLAN A15. ROUGH OPENING FRAME INSTALLATION A16.ROUGH OPENING FRAME A17. GABLE END FRAMING DETAILS A18. FIXED GLASS IN LOG WALL A19. 3X12 WALL STIFFENER A20. DRIP EDGE ABOVE WINDOW TRIM A21. INSET WINDOW MOUNTING IN LOG WALLS A22. INSET WINDOW MOUNTING IN FRAMED WALLS A23. GABLE END FRAMING A24. TYPICAL GABLE DORMER FRAMING A25. CIRCULAR WINDOW IN FRAMED WALL A26. FLOATING STUD WALLS A27. EXPOSED STAIRS A28. 8X8 D-Log Detail A29. 8” Round Log Detail A30. 6x8 D-Log Detail A31. 6x12 Log on Log Detail A32. 6x12 Pioneer Log Detail A33. 8x12 D-Log Detail A34. 8x12 D-Log Dovetail Detail A35. 8x12 Log on Log Detail

SECOND FLOOR SYSTEM A36. SPLICING THE 6X12 GIRDER BEAM A37. FLOOR JOIST & RAFTER END ATTACHMENT A38. RAFTER & FLOOR JOIST CONNECTION

A39. PREMIER ROOF & SECOND FLOOR SYSTEM A40. RAFTER & JOIST LAYOUT A41. FLOOR JOIST ATTACHMENT TO TOP OF LOG WALL A42. NOTCHED FLOOR JOIST ATTACHMENT A43. FRAMING TO LOG WALL ATTACHMENT

ROOF INSTALLATION A44. PREMIER ROOF SYSTEM A45. RAFTERS WITH LONG COLLARS A46. PREMIER ROOF SECTION A47. SHED DORMER SECTION A48. SIDEMOUNT COLLAR ATTACHMENT A49. CLASSIC COLLAR TIE ATTACHMENT A50. AIR FLOW CHANNEL DETAIL A51. PREMIER ROOF LAYERING DETAIL A52. CONVENTIONAL ROOF COLLAR ATTACHMENT A53. CONVENTIONAL ROOF WITH FLAT CEILING A54. TYPICAL TRUSS ROOF

SAMPLE FOUNDATION PLAN N.T.S.

SUBFLOOR SIZE

30'-8"

10'-0"

2) CRAWL SPACE HEIGHT TO BE A MINIMUM OF 30" FROM BOTTOM OF FLOOR JOISTS TO TOP OF FINISH GRADE OR PER LOCAL CODE.

SOLID BLOCKING TO BE USED ABOVE PIERS THAT ARE LOCATED BETWEEN JOISTS

LOCATION OF UPSTAIRS SUPPORT POSTS (TYP).

3'-4"

3) SCREEN VENTS TO BE LOCATED BY CONTRACTOR ON JOB SITE PER LOCAL CODE.

13'-10"

4) ACCESS DOORS TO BE LOCATED ON SITE BY CONTRACTOR 5) FOUNDATION MATERIALS SUPPLIED BY OWNER UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED.

1'-10"

3/4" T &G SHEA T HING 2X1 0 FLOOR JOIST S 1 6 " O. C .

11'-10"

6'-0"

TRIPLE 2X10 GIRDER BEAM

7) IF FOUNDATION WALLS ARE NOT SQUARE OR LEVEL, CORRECT DURING SUBFLOOR CONSTRUCTION.

9) FOUNDATION WALLS CONSTRUCTED AS PER LOCAL CODE. 10) SOLID BLOCKING TO BE USED UNDER ALL POSTS.

TYPICAL CONT. FOOTING AS PER LOCAL CODE

7'-6"

11) BLOCKING TO BE USED UNDER STUD WALLS RUNNING PARALLEL TO FLOOR JOISTS.

DOUBLE RIM JOIST

PORCH AREA

7'-10"

8) FIREPLACE DIMENSIONS TO BE VERIFIED BY OWNER BEFORE CONSTRUCTION.

SAMPLE FOUNDATION PLAN

5/4" RND EDG DEC KING 2X8 C . C . A . JOIST S 1 6 " O. C .

3/4" T &G SHEA T HING 2X1 0 FLOOR JOIST S 1 6 " O. C .

11'-10"

23'-8"

1) REMOVE ALL SOD AND COVER ENTIRE AREA WITH 6 MIL. POLY. VAPOR BARRIER.

ANCHOR BOLTS 48" O.C.

6) BUILDER TO VERIFY ALL DIMENSIONS ON JOB SITE.

8'-0"

8'-10"

SUBFLOOR SIZ E

8'-10"

CRAWL SPACE NOTES:

7'-6"

12) SUPPORT PIERS DIMENSIONED UNDER GIRDER ARE LOCATED FOR UPPER LEVEL SUPPORTS. ALL OTHER GIRDER SUPPORTS ARE LOCATED PER CODE ON JOB SITE.

IMPORTANT: SUBFLOOR MUST BE SIZE GIVEN IN ORDER FOR LOGS TO FIT. THESE DIMENSIONS DO NOT INCLUDE ANY ALLOWANCES FOR FACING MATERIAL. CONCRETE BLOCK SHOULD BE LAID TO SUBFLOOR SIZE DIMENSIONS.

7'-10"

FOUNDATION PLAN SCALE: 1/4" = 1’−0"

Construction Guide Appendix

Page 3

TYPICAL CRAWL SPACE N.T.S.

1'-0"

2X10 SOLID BLOCKING BETWEEN JOISTS

3/4" T&G SUBFLOOR SHEATHING

PROFILE LOG SIDING FOR BAND COVER, INSTALL AFTER LOGS ARE ERECTIED SIDING TYPE TO MATCH LOG WALLS

2X10 JOIST 16"O.C.

1/2" ANCHOR BOLTS 4’ O.C. ENTIRE PLATE

2'-0"

2X8 C.C.A. TREATED PORCH JOISTS 16"O.C.

2X8 TREATED HEADER

2X8 TREATED TREATED SILL PLATE

2X8 TREATED TREATED SILL PLATE 1/2" ANCHOR BOLTS

2X10 TREATED HEADER

8X16 CONCRETE BLOCK PIER FOR STINGER SUPPORT, 8’ O.C. 28"X28" CONCRETE PIER POURED WITH FOOTER

R−19 BATT INSULATION BETWEEN JOISTS

5/4 C.C.A. TREATED ROUND EDGE DECKING

6 MIL. POLY VAPOR BARRIER GROUND COVER

8" CONCRETE BLOCK OR TREATED POST

CRAWL SPACE IMPORTANT: SUBFLOOR MUST BE GIVEN IN ORDER FOR LOGS TO FIT. THESE DIMENSIONS DO NOT INCLUDE ANY ALLOWANCES FOR FACING MATERIAL, CONCRETE BLOCK SHOULD BE LAID TO SUBFLOOR SIZE DIMENSIONS

Construction Guide Appendix

Page 4

TYPICAL BASEMENT DETAIL N.T.S. SUBFLOOR SIZE DIMENSIONS

SEE CUSTOMER’S BLUEPRINT FOR DIMENISON

5/4" TREATED ROUND EDGE DECKING

3/4" T&G SUBFLOOR SHEATHING 2X10 JOIST 16"O.C. 3−2X10 STRINGER

1/2" ANCHOR BOLTS 4’ O.C. ENTIRE PLATE

2X8 TREATED PORCH JOISTS 26"O.C. 2X8 TREATED HEADER

12" CONCRETE BLOCK − VARIFY WITH OWNER 4" STEEL BASEMENT POST 8’ O.C. (TYP)

EXTERIOR BASEMENT WATERPROOFING RECOMMENDED

WHEN BACKFILLING ENTIRE WALL; POUR CORNER BLOCKS SOLID WITH CONCRETE AND THEN EVERY 8’ O.C.

8" CONCRETE BLOCK OR TREATED POST

16"

12"

4" CRUSHED STONE AND DRAIN LINES

4" CONCRETE SLAB, 6X6 WOVEN WIRE MESH, 6 MIL. POLY VAPOR BARRIER, AND 4" CRUSHED STONE (TYP)

2X10 TREATED HEADER

2X10 SOLID BLOCKING BETWEEN JOISTS

10"

2X8 TREATED TREATED SILL PLATE

MIN.8'-0" HEIGHT

2X10 JOIST 16"O.C.

PROFILE LOG SIDING FOR BAND COVER, INSTALL AFTER LOGS ARE ERECTIED SIDING TYPE TO MATCH LOG WALLS

24"

3−1/2" REINFORCEMENT RODS ENTIRE FOOTER

BASEMENT

NOTE: MATERIALS SHOWN MAY VARY PER LOCAL CODE ALL FOUNDATION MATERIALS ARE SUPPLIED BY OWNER ALL SUBFLOOR MATERIALS ARE TYPICALLY SUPPLIED BY TLH OWNER TO PROVIDE AND LOCATE ALL 8X16 SCREENED VENTS AND HOSE BIBBS

Construction Guide Appendix

Page 5

SUBFLOOR DIAGONALS N.T.S.

Be sure the subfloors, foundations, etc. are square before beginning any log wall construction. Check the "squareness" by taking the diagonal measurements. If the object is square, the diagonal measurements will be equal. Unequal measurements indicate an "out−of−square" object. The log home subfloor must be square. The diagonal measure− ments should be within 1/4" of each other. Otherwise, adjust− ments must be made to the sub− floor to "square it up". ALWAYS USE A STEEL TAPE MEASURE!

Construction Guide Appendix

Page 6

PORCH & DECK ATTACHMENT N.T.S.

5/4" C.C.A. TREATED RND EDGE DECKING

2x10 FLOOR JOIST 2X8 C.C.A. TREATED SILL PLATE

Construction Guide Appendix

2X8 C.C.A. TREATED PORCH/DECK JOISTS JOIST HANGER (BY OWNER)

DOUBLE 2X8 TREATED HEADER

2X8 TREATED SILL PLATE

Page 7

LOG WALL TO SUBFLOOR CONNECTION N.T.S. INSULATION GASKET TO BE USED ON TOP OF TONGUES BETWEEN EACH COURSE OF LOGS

OWNER TO LOCATE AND DRILL FOR ELECTRICALWIRING AS LOGS ARE ERECTED SEE PLAN TO DETERMINE ACTUAL LOG STYLE

12" LAG BOLT S 30" O.C.

ELECTRICAL OUTLET BOX

CAULKING AFTER LOGS ARE ERECTED BY OWNER SEE PLAN

NOTICE THE DOUBLE 2X10 HEADERS FORMING THE SUBFLOOR PERIMETER. BE CERTAIN TO DRILL THE WIRING CHANNEL IN TO THESE HEADERS AND OUT UNDER THE SUBFLOOR SO THE CHANNEL CAN BE LOCATED AND ACCESSED FROM UNDER THE SUBFLOOR WHEN THE WIRING IS RUN LATER. THIS MAY REQUIRE GOING UNDER THE SUBFLOOR AND CHISELING A HOLE THROUGH TO THE CHANNEL AT THE TIME IT IS DRILLED. Construction Guide Appendix

SEE PLAN

USE 7/16" OSB IN GROOVES TO HAVE FLAT SURFACE ON FIRST COURSE LOG OVERHANG VARIES BETWEEN LOG STYLES. SEE PLAN FOR EXACT OVERHANG DIMENSIONS.

Page 8

LOG LAYOUT DIAGRAM 10'-0" 1-J-1

11'-0" 1-J-2

3'-6" 1-G-1

3'-0" 1-H-2

3046 WINDOW

3'-0" 1-G-2

7'-4" 1-G-3

3'-6" 1-E-1

3'-0" 1-E-2

7'-4" 1-E-3

3'-0" 1-D-2

7'-4" 1-D-3

82 1/2"

7'-4" 1-F-3

60"

3'-0" 1-F-2

3'-6" 1-C-1

3'-0" 1-C-2 42"

3'-6" 1-B-1

Wall

7'-4" 1-H-3

3-0 9LITE DOOR

3'-6" 1-F-1 3'-6" 1-D-1

16'-0" 1-L-2

3'-6" 1-A-1

3'-0" 1-B-2 3'-0" 1-A-2

4'-6" 3-G-4 4'-6" 3-F-4 4'-6" 3-E-4 4'-6" 3-D-4

7'-4" 1-C-3

4'-6" 3-C-4 80"

7'-4" 1-B-3

4'-6" 3-B-4

7'-4" 1-A-3

10'-0" 1-C-1 10'-0" 1-B-1

4'-6" 3-H-4

2-3046 WINDOW

60"

3'-6" 1-H-1

N.T.S.

14'-0" 1-M-3

16'-0" 1-I-1

4'-6" 3-A-4

5'-0" 1-C-2

13'-6" 1-C-3

42"

15'-0" 1-B-2

10'-0" 1-A-1

3'-6" 1-B-3

10'-0" 1-A-2

8'-6" 1-A-3

32'-0" Wall

6x8 D 13 courses 8x8 D or DD 13 courses 6x12 or 8x12 Log on Log 9 courses 6x12 Traditional 6 1/2 courses 8" Round 14 courses 8x12 D Log 9 courses

Construction Guide Appendix

Walls Shown From OUTSIDE

1−A−1

1 Wall

Page 9

Wall

An 8’−0" high wall requires the following number of log courses (depending on the style of log):

The diagram to the right shows the overhead view of the wall layout of the home. Each wall in numbered, and the starting is labeled "1−A−1". The log wall #1 (above) corresponds to wall #1 on the diagram to the left. The log layout diagrams are drawn as if you were outside the home looking in. When you look at the diagram of wall #1 above you are looking at the outside face of the wall. Each log is labeled using a labeling system that contains either two or three digits. The three digit method, shown above, is the most common method used to label a log wall system. The first number indicates the wall number. The second letter places the log in a course (vertical positioning). The last number indicates the horizontal position of the log in the course. For example, the log labeled "1−C−3" is placed in wall #1, course C, third log in the row. The second method, although not as common, is a two digit system with the first letter indicating course (vertical position)and the second number placing the log horizontally in the course. On the cut sheet and log layout diagram, the length of each log is given, either in feet and inches or inches only. The nothces are also indicated on the cut sheet.

SAMPLE SADDLE NOTCH CUT SHEET 10'-0" 1-J-1

11'-0" 1-J-2

3'-6" 1-H-1 3'-6" 1-G-1

Wall

7'-4" 1-H-3 7'-4" 1-G-3

3-0 9LITE DOOR

4'-6" 3-F-4 4'-6" 3-E-4 4'-6" 3-D-4

3'-0" 1-C-2 3'-0" 1-B-2

42"

3'-6" 1-A-1

60"

7'-4" 1-F-3 7'-4" 1-E-3 7'-4" 1-D-3

8 2 1 /2 "

3'-0" 1-F-2 3'-0" 1-E-2 3'-0" 1-D-2

60"

3'-6" 1-F-1

7'-4" 1-C-3 7'-4" 1-B-3

3'-0" 1-A-2

4'-6" 3-A-4 13'-6" 1-C-3

42"

10'-0" 1-B-1 10'-0" 1-A-1

15'-0" 1-B-2

3'-6" 1-B-3

10'-0" 1-A-2

8'-6" 1-A-3

32'-0"

SEE NOTES 3 & 4 FOR WINDOW & DOOR SPECIFICATION (TYP)

14'-0" 2-N-2 16'-0" 2-M-1

9'-0" 2-M-2 11'-6" 2-L-2 6'-6" 2-K-2 6'-6" 2-J-2

3046 WINDOW

6'-6" 2-I-2 6'-6" 2-H-2

60"

8'-0" 2-I-1 8'-0" 2-H-1 8'-0" 2-G-1 8'-0" 2-F-1

2032T WINDOW

4'-6" 2-K-3 4'-6" 2-J-3

45"

13'-6" 2-L-1 8'-0" 2-K-1 8'-0" 2-J-1

4'-6" 2-I-3 4'-6" 2-H-3

30"

6'-6" 2-G-2

4'-6" 2-G-3 13'-6" 2-F-2

42"

8'-0" 2-E-1

13'-6" 2-E-2 12'-0" 2-D-2

13'-0" 2-D-1

4'-6" 3-C-4 4'-6" 3-B-4

80"

7'-4" 1-A-3 5'-0" 1-C-2

10'-0" 1-C-1

11'-0" 2-N-1

Wall

4'-6" 3-H-4 4'-6" 3-G-4

2-3046 WINDOW

3'-6" 1-E-1 3'-6" 1-D-1 3'-6" 1-C-1 3'-6" 1-B-1

16'-0" 1-L-2

3'-0" 1-H-2 3'-0" 1-G-2

3046 WINDOW

N.T.S.

14'-0" 1-M-3

16'-0" 1-I-1

7'-0" 2-C-1

11'-0" 2-C-2

7'-0" 2-C-3

15'-0" 2-B-1 11'-0" 2-A-1

10'-0" 2-B-2 14'-0" 2-A-2

25'-0" 16'-0" 3-M-1 16'-0" 3-L-1

10'-0" 3-M-2

2832 WINDOW 45"

9'-0" 3-I-1 9'-0" 3-H-1 38"

9'-0" 3-G-1

Wall

9'-0" 3-F-1 7'-6" 3-E-1

9'-0" 3-M-3 16'-0" 3-L-2

7'-4" 3-K-2 7'-4" 3-J-2

9'-0" 3-K-3 9'-0" 3-J-3

3-0 9LITE DOOR

7'-4" 3-I-2 7'-4" 3-H-2

9'-0" 3-I-3 9'-0" 3-H-3

7'-4" 3-G-2

9'-0" 3-G-3

8 2 1 /2 "

9'-0" 3-K-1 9'-0" 3-J-1

7'-4" 3-F-2 12'-0" 3-E-2

5'-6" 3-D-1

9'-0" 3-F-3 9'-0" 3-E-3

14'-0" 3-D-2 13'-0" 3-C-1

9'-0" 3-D-3 9'-0" 3-C-3

6'-6" 3-C-2

9'-0" 3-B-1 11'-0" 3-A-1

42"

10'-6" 3-B-2 8'-6" 3-A-2

9'-0" 3-B-3 9'-0" 3-A-3

32'-0" Wall

12'-6" 4-N-1 11'-0" 4-M-1

Wall

3'-0" 4-E-2

3'-0" 4-F-3

FIREPLACE DOOR

9'-6" 4-D-1 9'-6" 4-C-1 9'-6" 4-B-1 9'-6" 4-A-1

72"

42"

3'-0" 4-E-3

3'-0" 4-I-3 3'-0" 4-H-3 3'-0" 4-G-3 3'-0" 4-F-4

Walls Shown From OUTSIDE

Wall

60"

60" 42"

3'-0" 4-F-2

25'-0"

Construction Guide Appendix

3'-0" 4-J-3

12'-0" 4-I-2 12'-0" 4-H-2 12'-0" 4-G-2

3'-0" 4-E-1

3'-0" 4-K-3

3046 WINDOW

12'-0" 4-J-2

3'-0" 4-I-1 3'-0" 4-H-1 3'-0" 4-G-1 3'-0" 4-F-1

9'-0" 4-L-2 12'-0" 4-K-2

3046 WINDOW

4 1 1 /4 "

3'-0" 4-J-1

Wall

16'-0" 4-L-1 3'-0" 4-K-1

12'-6" 4-N-2 14'-0" 4-M-2

3'-0" 4-E-4 9'-6" 4-D-2 9'-6" 4-C-2 9'-6" 4-B-2 9'-6" 4-A-2

1-A-1

1 Wall

Page 10

SAMPLE 6X12 CUT SHEET 10'-0" 1-S-1

12'-0" 1-S-2

3'-0" 1-P-2

7'-4" 1-P-3

3'-0" 1-O-2

7'-4" 1-O-3

3'-0" 1-N-2

42"

3'-0" 1-M-1

4'-0" 1-Q-4 4'-0" 1-P-4

7'-4" 1-N-3

3'-0" 1-M-2

2-3046 WINDOW

7'-4" 1-Q-3

82"

60"

3'-0" 1-O-1

Wall

3-0 9LITE DOOR

3'-0" 1-Q-2

3'-0" 1-P-1

3'-0" 1-N-1

15'-0" 1-R-2

60"

3046 WINDOW

3'-0" 1-Q-1

N.T.S.

13'-0" 1-S-3

16'-0" 1-R-1

7'-4" 1-M-3

9'-6" 1-L-1

4'-0" 1-M-4

6'-0" 1-L-2

42"

9'-6" 1-K-1

4'-0" 1-O-4 4'-0" 1-N-4

80"

12'-0" 1-L-3

9'-0" 1-K-2

9'-0" 1-K-3

31'-0" Wall

11'-11" 2-J-1

11'-0" 2-J-2

7'-6" 2-F-1

6'-6" 2-F-2

60"

6'-6" 2-G-2

7'-6" 2-E-1

Wall

4'-0" 2-G-3 4'-0" 2-F-3

30"

6'-6" 2-E-2

10'-0" 2-C-2

6'-0" 2-B-1

12'-0" 2-B-2

1 Wall

11'-0" 2-A-2

SEE NOTES 3 & 4 FOR WINDOW & DOOR SPECIFICATION (TYP)

24'-0" 13'-0" 3-Q-2

11'-0" 3-Q-3

8'-0" 3-Q-4

16'-0" 3-P-1

15'-0" 3-P-2

45"

7'-4" 3-O-2

38"

7'-6" 3-L-1

Wall

8'-6" 3-O-3 8'-6" 3-N-3

7'-4" 3-M-2

8'-6" 3-M-3

11'-6" 3-L-2

5'-6" 3-K-1

3-0 9LITE DOOR

7'-4" 3-N-2 8 1 1 /2 "

2832 WINDOW

8'-6" 3-N-1 8'-6" 3-M-1

1-A-1

6'-0" 2-B-3

13'-0" 2-A-1

8'-6" 3-O-1

Walls Shown From OUTSIDE

13'-0" 2-D-2

14'-0" 2-C-1

3'-0" 3-Q-1

4'-0" 2-E-3

42"

7'-6" 2-D-1

4'-0" 2-H-3

2032T WINDOW

Wall

6'-6" 2-H-2

3046 WINDOW

7'-6" 2-G-1

44"

7'-6" 2-H-1

8'-0" 2-I-2

Wall

16'-0" 2-I-1

8'-6" 3-L-3

13'-6" 3-K-2

8'-6" 3-K-3

12'-6" 3-J-1

6'-6" 3-J-2

9'-6" 3-I-1

8'-6" 3-J-3

42"

9'-6" 3-I-2

8'-6" 3-I-3

31'-0" 9'-0" 4-J-1

13'-11" 4-J-2 15'-6" 4-I-1

12'-0" 4-G-2

2'-6" 4-F-1

12'-0" 4-F-2

60"

2'-6" 4-G-1

2'-6" 4-D-1

3'-0" 4-E-2 42"

2'-6" 4-G-3

3'-0" 4-E-3

FIREPLACE DOOR

3'-0" 4-D-2

9'-0" 4-C-1 9'-0" 4-B-1

2'-6" 4-H-3

3046 WINDOW

4 9 1 /2 "

2'-6" 4-E-1

Wall

8'-6" 4-I-2 12'-0" 4-H-2

3046 WINDOW

60"

2'-6" 4-H-1

72"

9'-0" 4-A-1

3'-0" 4-D-3

2'-6" 4-F-3 2'-6" 4-E-4

42"

2'-6" 4-D-4

9'-0" 4-C-2 9'-0" 4-B-2 9'-0" 4-A-2

24'-0"

Construction Guide Appendix

Page 11

SAMPLE BUTT & PASS LOG CUT SHEET N.T.S.

FOR DOOR & WINDOW SPECIFICATIONS SEE NOTE 3 & 4.

116"" 1-M-1

61"

36"" 36"" 36"" 36"" 36""

42"

1-H-2 1-G-2 1-F-2 1-E-2 1-D-2

120"" 1-C-1 106"" 1-B-1

172"" 1-M-3 176"" 1-L-2 88"" 1-K-3 88"" 1-J-3 88"" 1-I-3

3-0 9LITE DOOR

2-3046 WINDOW

88"" 1-H-3 88"" 1-G-3 88"" 1-F-3 88"" 1-E-3 88"" 1-D-3 78"" 1-C-2 60"" 1-B-2

42"

120"" 1-A-1

54"" 1-K-4 40"" 1-J-4 54"" 1-I-4 61"

3046 WINDOW

28"" 1-H-1 42"" 1-G-1 28"" 1-F-1 42"" 1-E-1 28"" 1-D-1

Wall

132"" 1-M-2 180"" 1-L-1 36"" 1-K-2 36"" 1-J-2 36"" 1-I-2

85"

42"" 1-K-1 28"" 1-J-1 42"" 1-I-1

80"

40"" 1-H-4 54"" 1-G-4 40"" 1-F-4 54"" 1-E-4 40"" 1-D-4

144"" 1-C-3 148"" 1-B-3

108"" 1-A-2

114"" 1-A-3

32'-0"

Wall

3 92"" 2-M-2 138"" 2-L-3

3046 WINDOW

78"" 78"" 78"" 78"" 78""

61"

96"" 2-J-1 82"" 2-I-1 96"" 2-H-1 82"" 2-G-1 96"" 2-F-1 82"" 2-E-1 96"" 2-D-1

42"

Wall

54"" 2-J-3 40"" 2-I-3 54"" 2-H-3 40"" 2-G-3 54"" 2-F-3

30"

148"" 2-E-2 162"" 2-D-2

192"" 2-C-1

40"" 2-K-3

2032 WINDOW

2-J-2 2-I-2 2-H-2 2-G-2 2-F-2

192"" 2-B-2

42"" 2-B-3

132"" 2-A-1

1−A−1

140"" 2-A-2

25'-0"

Wall

1 129"" 3-M-2 132"" 3-L-2 88"" 88"" 88"" 88""

45"

2832 WINDOW 38"

3-K-2 3-J-2 3-I-2 3-H-2

113"" 3-M-3 68"" 3-L-3 108"" 3-K-3 94"" 3-J-3 108"" 3-I-3 94"" 3-H-3

3-0 9LITE DOOR

88"" 3-G-2 88"" 3-F-2 144"" 3-E-2 160"" 3-D-2 102"" 3-C-2 136"" 3-B-2 84"" 3-A-2

Wall

108"" 3-G-3 94"" 3-F-3 108"" 3-E-3 94"" 3-D-3 108"" 3-C-3 94"" 3-B-3 108"" 3-A-3

85"

108"" 3-G-1 94"" 3-F-1 90"" 3-E-1 60"" 3-D-1 132"" 3-C-1 84"" 3-B-1 150"" 3-A-1

80"" 2-C-2

66"" 2-B-1

178"" 3-M-1 156"" 3-L-1 108"" 3-K-1 94"" 3-J-1 108"" 3-I-1 94"" 3-H-1

Walls Shown From OUTSIDE

Wall

78"" 2-K-2

45"

82"" 2-K-1

Wall

180"" 2-M-1 114"" 2-L-2

48"" 2-L-1

42"

32'-0" 168"" 4-M-1

104"" 4-M-2 168"" 4-L-2

132"" 4-L-1 3046 WINDOW

22"" 4-I-1 61"

36"" 4-H-1 22"" 4-G-1

36"" 4-F-1 22"" 4-E-1

42"

Wall

36"" 4-D-1

36"" 4-G-2 36"" 4-F-2 36"" 4-E-2 36"" 4-D-2

100"" 4-C-1 114"" 4-B-1 100"" 4-A-1

4-K-2 4-J-2 4-I-2 4-H-2

3046 WINDOW

36"" 4-G-3

FIREPLACE DOOR

72"

22"" 4-K-3

36"" 4-J-3 22"" 4-I-3

61"

36"" 4-J-1

144"" 144"" 144"" 144""

52 1/ 2"

22"" 4-K-1

36"" 4-F-3 36"" 4-E-3 36"" 4-D-3

42"

36"" 4-H-3 22"" 4-G-4

36"" 4-F-4 22"" 4-E-4

36"" 4-D-4 100"" 4-C-2 114"" 4-B-2 100"" 4-A-2

25'-0"

Construction Guide Appendix

Page 12

BUTT & PASS CORNER DETAIL BUTT LOG

PASS LOG

1−A−1 LOG

WALL #1 CHALK LINE

Place Right Hand End of "butt log" flush with chalk line of last wall.

SUBFLOOR

LAST WALL

SUBFLOOR

LAST WALL

WALL #1 CHALK LINE

N.T.S.

Let Right Hand End of "pass log" hand over subfloor.

EXAMPLE: OVERHEAD VIEW (8x8 D−Log Shown)

Construction Guide Appendix

Page 13

SAMPLE ELECTRICAL PLAN N.T.S. SWITCH GF

LIGHT FIXTURE

VANITY LIGHT FLOURESCENT LIGHT

220

EXHAUST FAN/LIGHT EXHAUST FAN SD

SD SMOKE DETECTOR WATERPROOF OUTLET

H/W

GROUND FAULT OUTLET TELEPHONE

TELEVISION 110V OUTLET 220V OUTLET

220

CEILING FAN/LIGHT

ELECTRICAL PLAN IS A SUGGESTED PLAN AND SHOULD BE MODIFIED TO MEET LOCAL CODES.

Construction Guide Appendix

Page 14

ROUGH OPENING FRAME N.T.S.

NOTE: ALWAYS NAIL SPLINE TO JAMB BEFORE INSTALLATION. SLOTTED ROUGH OPENING FRAME

SPLINE ON ROUGH OPENING FRAME FITS INTO GROOVES IN END OF LOGS.

Construction Guide Appendix

16d NAILS WITH WASHERS竏誰AIL TIGHT BUT DO NOT SEAT NAILS

Page 15

ROUGH OPENING FRAME N.T.S.

2x8 OR 2x6 (DEPENDING ON LOG STYLE) ROUGH OPENING FRAME

LONG SPLINE, WITH LOG WALL INSULATION BOTH SIDES, NAILED INTO GROOVE IN 2x6 OR 2x8 R.O. FRAME

Construction Guide Appendix

VERTICAL SLOTS CUT INTO 2x8 OR 2x6 THROUGH WHICH FRAME IS NAILED TO LOG ENDS.

Page 16

GABLE END FRAMING DETAILS 3X12 RIDGE BEAM SHEATHING BOARD

LOG SIDING

6X6 POST

4−2x6 OR 4−2x4 NAILED TOGETHER TO FORM POST 1X2 FINISHED BOARD

1" TRIM TO BOTTOM OF SHEATHING

LOG PROFILE SIDING TOP LOG AIR SPACE

2X FRAME TO MATCH LOG TYPE

INSULATION SHEATHING BOARD

TYP OVER ALL EXTERIOR DOORS AND WINDOWS

MIN 1 1/2" CLEARANCE 2X6 OR 2X8 (TYP SAME AS LOG THICKNESS ) 1X6 FINISHED BOARD

WINDOW STOP

SCREW JACK ASSEMBLY BY TLH

1X2 WINDOW STOP

BOTTOM LOG

1X6 EXTERIOR TRIM BEVEL TOP APROX 100

FLASH AND CAULK see flashing detail on this sheet

BATTEN INSULATION

6X8 POST W/ JACK ASSEMBLY ON TOP BY TLH

NOTE: ALL MATERIALS USED FOR FIXED GLASS GABLE ENDS ARE PROVIDED BY OWNER UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED.

SECURE LARGE STIFFENER PLATE OVER SPLICES IN TOP LOG COURSE USING BOLTS PROVIDED.

4−2x6 OR 4−2x4 NAILED TOGETHER TO FORM POST.

SCREW JACK ASSEMBLY BY TLH

6X8 POST

SECURE WALL STIFFENER PLATE TO TOP OF LOG BEFORE INSTALLING GABLE FRAMING 1X2 WOOD GLASS STOPS

2X4 or 2x6 FRAMING TYP

SCREW JACK ASSEMB;Y

DOUBLE 2X6 PLATE TYP

DECKING OR SHEATHING

PLACE 3X12 WALL STIFFENER ON TOP OF TOP COURSE OF LOGS. (SEE DETAIL)

1 1/2" MIN ADJUSTMENT

1X6 TRIM BOARD

GABLE FIXED GLASS

DOUBLE TOP PLATE

N.T.S.

SCREW JACK ASSEMBLY ON TOP OF 6X8" POSTS BETWEEN FIRST FLOOR GLASS

FLASHING DETAIL FIXED GLASS

2X4 FRAME FACTORY DOOR JAMB

LOG OR LOG SIDING

1X6TRIM 1X6TRIM BEVEL TOP 0 APROX 10

SLOPE WINDOW SILL APROX 10 OFOR DRAINAGE INTERIOR TRIM

DOOR

1X6 TRIM BEVEL TOP APROX 15

ALUMINUM FLASHING by others

Cut a 1/2" deep slot at 15 degrees in log or siding. Slide flashing into slot, fasten, and caulk.

2 COURSES LOGS

1X6 TRIM BOARD BEVEL TOP APROX 100

Construction Guide Appendix

CAULK

SIDE VIEW

Page 17

FIXED GLASS IN LOG WALL N.T.S.

SEE WALL STIFFENER DETAIL FOR INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS 2x ACROSS TOP OF WINDOWS

SCREW JACK ASSEMBLY

SLOTTED ROUGH OPENING FRAME BY OWNER

ADJUSTABLE POST WITH SCREW JACK ASSEMBLY

SLOTTED ROUGH OPENING FRAME

Construction Guide Appendix

Page 18

3x12 WALL STIFFENER N.T.S. PROFILE LOG SIDING

DOUBLE BOTTOM PLATE LAY 3X12 BEAM FLAT AS WALL STIFFENER

7/16" OSB SHEATHING MIN. 6" LAG−STAGGER PATTERN 24" O.C.

TOP COURSE OF LOGS

NOTE: THE 3X12 WALL STIFFENER IS DESIGNED TO SUPPLY LATERAL STABILITY TO CERTAIN LOG WALLS; PARTICULARLY GABLE END WALLS CONTAINING A LOT OF GLASS. BE CERTAIN TO CHECK THE CUT SHEET & LOG LAYOUT DIAGRAM TO DETERMINE IF ONE IS REQUIRED. Construction Guide Appendix

Page 19

DRIP EDGE ABOVE WINDOW TRIM N.T.S.

MAKE A SAW CUT AT 15 DEGREES, 1/2" ABOVE TOP EDGE OF WINDOW TRIM. TRIM DRIP EDGE AND PLACE IN SAWCUT, ALLOWING IT TO EXTEND PAST EACH END OF TRIM APX. 1/2". APPLY CAULK TO SEAL.

SEE PLAN TO VERIFY LOG PROFILE INTERIOR WINDOW TRIM SETTLING SPACE ABOVE WINDOW FILLED WITH BATT INSULATION

EXTERIOR WINDOW TRIM DRIP EDGE BY OWNER

WINDOW

INTERIOR WINDOW TRIM

NOTE:

SETTLING SPACE ABOVE WINDOW FILLED WITH BATT INSULATION

EXTERIOR WINDOW TRIM Construction Guide Appendix

WINDOW

DRIP EDGE CAN BE PURCHASED AT MOST HOME IMPROVEMENT STORES (LOWE’S, HOME DEPOT, ACE HARDWARE, ETC.

Page 20

INSET WINDOW MOUNTING IN LOG WALLS 3/4" TRIM

1 1/2" 1 1/2"

3/4" TRIM

1/2" SHIM SPACE

1 1/2" NAILER USE WINDOW FLANGE TO ATTACH WINDOW TO NAILER (TYP FOUR SIDES)

1/2" SHIM SPACE

WINDOW FLANGE ATTACH TO NAILER

4 9/16"

DRIP EDGE o APP. 17 ANGLE

DRIP EDGE ON 32 DEGREE ANGLE 1/2" SHIM SPACE

1 1/2" NAILER

BOTTOM OF WINDOW WILL VARY WITH WINDOW SIZES

1 1/2" NAILER 2x8 FILLER RIPPED TO SIZE

TYPICAL CONSTRUCTION FOR WINDOW HEADER IN LOG WALL

CERTAIN WINDOWS MAY REQUIRE THE USE OF FILLER AS SHOWN

TYPICAL CONSTRUCTION FOR WINDOW SILL IN LOG WALL

2" RECESS INTO LOG WALL TO ALLOW INSET FOR TRIM

1 1/2" SETTLING SPACE 1 1/2" TOP NAILER

1X4 TRIM BOARD− COVERS THE WINDOW FLANGE AND ROUGH OPENING FRAMES

1/2" SHIM SPACE

WINDOW UNIT

1/2"

1 1/2" SETTLING SPACE

1 1 / 2" 2 1 / 4 "1 / 2 "

1 1/2" NAILER

3 3 / 43" 3 / 4 "

1 1/2" SETTLING SPACE

1/2" SHIM SPACE

N.T.S.

2" RECESS INTO LOG WALL TO ALLOW INSET FOR TRIM

1x6 TRIM IS TO BE USED ON INSIDE OF LOG WALL

8" LOG WALL PER PLAN

ROUGH OPENING FRAME WITH SPLINE ATTACHED. USE CIRCULAR SAW TO CREATE SLOTS IN OUTER FRAME. NAIL FRAME TO LOG WALLS THROUGH SLOTS. 1 1/2" NAILER ATTACH WINDOW FLANGE AND WIDOW TRIM TO NAILER

1/2" SHIM SPACE

BOTTOM OF WINDOW WILL VARY WITH WINDOW SIZES

Construction Guide Appendix

1 1/2"BOTTOM NAILER

Page 21

INSET WINDOW MOUNTING IN FRAMED WALLS N.T.S.

TOP PLATES

CRIPPLE (JACK) STUDS

KING STUD

5 1/2"

TRIMMER HEADER (SEE DETAIL)

8 1/2"

7/16" OSB FILLERS

ROUGH OPENING

2X6 STUD TO BE USED AS NAILER FOR EXTERIOR WALL COVERING SUBSILL

USE 5 2X6’S

JACK STUDS

HEADER DETAIL FRAMED WINDOW ELEVATION

INTERIOR WALL COVERING

SOLE PLATE

INTERIOR TRIM

USE 3 2X6 STUDS (SEE ELEVATION)

1/2" SHIM SPACE 6" JAMB 6"

INSULATION

WINDOW

2X6 FRAMED WALL OSB SHEATHING EXTERIOR WALL COVERING

1" x 4" TRIM

TYPICAL CONSTRUCTION FOR WINDOW IN FRAMED WALL Construction Guide Appendix

Page 22

GABLE END FRAMING N.T.S.

CAULKING ON TOP DOUBLE TOP PLATE FOR GABLE WALL FRAMING 7/16 O.S.B. WITH ROOFING FELT ON TOP INSULATION PANEL 2x6 T&G WITH FELT VAPOR BARRIER ON TOP 4x

7/16 OSB SHEATHING TYVEK HOUSE WRAP

8" OLY 8

CONTINUOUS VENT IN STUD WALL BETWEEN COURSES OF SIDING TO ALLOW AIR FLOW TO VENTED RIDGE CAP (BY OTHERS)

12" LAG BOLT FASCIA

RAFTERS & JOISTS INSET FOR SIDING

PROFILE LOG SIDING 16"

4x8 SIDE PLATE 7’−0"

GABLE STUDS INSET FOR SIDING & OSB SHEATING

5/4" TREATED RND EDGE DECKING

PROFILE LOG SIDING TO COVER SUBFLOOR

Construction Guide Appendix

2x8 TREATED PORCH JOISTS 2x10 SUBFLOOR

Page 23

TYPICAL GABLE DORMER FRAMING N.T.S. HOUSE RIDGE BEAM

JACK RAFTER

HOUSE RAFTERS

DORMER HEADER JACK RAFTER HOUSE RIDGE BEAM 2X6 T&G ROOF DECKING

RIDGE BEAM

DORMER RIDGE BEAM DORMER HEADER

TONGUE & GROOVE ROOF DECKING GABLE STUD TOP PLATE

GABLE STUD PLATE

DORMER BARGE RAFTER

DORMER GABLE STUDS

GABLE STUDS

DORMER GABLE STUDS

COLLAR BEAMS

DOUBLE 2X6 TOP PLATE VALLEY RAFTER

CRIPPLE (JACK) STUDS

DORMER RAFTERS DOUBLE TOP PLATES

SNOW BLOCKING BY OWNER

VALLEY JACK RAFTER HEADER

WINDOW HEADER FRAMED CORNER

DORMER RAFTERS COLLAR TIES DORMER SOLE PLATE

JACK STUDS

TRIMER KING STUD

SHEATHING & TYVEK WRAP

ROUGH OPENING

LOG SIDING FRAMED CORNER

SUBSILL

TOP OF LOG WALL 2X6 T&G FLOOR DECKING SOLE PLATE JOIST BAND

Construction Guide Appendix

TONGUE & GROOVE ROOF DECKING

RAFTER TOP OF LOG WALL SECOND FLOOR JOIST

JACK STUDS

JOIST BAND SECOND FLOOR DECKING SOLE PLATE

Page 24

CIRCULAR WINDOW IN FRAMED WALL N.T.S.

RIDGE BEAM RIDGE BEAM SUPPORT CRIPPLE (JACK) STUDS

TOP PLATES

DOUBLE 2X6 ANGLE BRACE/ NAILER FOR WINDOW AND SIDING

HEADER

KING STUD

TRIMMER

2X6 STUD TO BE USED AS NAILER FOR EXTERIOR WALL COVERING SUBSILL JACK STUDS

SOLE PLATE Construction Guide Appendix

Page 25

FLOATING STUD WALLS N.T.S.

1/2"x6" LAG SCREW AND WASHER (BY OTHERS) 7/16" OSB BOARD 2X4 TURNED ON EDGE ALLOW A MIN. OF 2" AIRSPACE BELOW LAG SCREW TO ALLOW SCREW TO SETTLE WITH LOG WALL

LOG WALL

END STUD DETAIL

2X6 T&G DECKING NOTCH 6X12 BEAM INTO LOG WALL 3". TOP OF LOG WALL AND TOP OF 6X12 SHOULD BE THE SAME HEIGHT.

SPLICE IN 6X12 BEAM MUST BE OVER THE SCREW JACK ASSEMBLY

1X4 OR 1X6 TOP TRIM NAILER BY OTHERS

6X12 SECOND FLOOR GIRDER BEAM PRE−DRILL 3/8" HOLE THROUGH TOP PLATE FOR 7" SPIKE USED TO ATTACH TOP OF STUD WALL TO GIRDER FOR LATERAL STABILITY TURN END STUDS EDGEWISE AND FASTEN TO LOG WALL WITH 1/2"x6" LAG SCREWS AND WASHERS. (BY OTHERS) SEE END STUD DETAIL 1/2" X 6" LAG SCREW AND WASHER BY OTHERS 2X10 JOIST 16"O.C.

4X8 SECOND FLOOR JOIST 24" O.C.

SCREW JACK ASSEMBLEY FOR POST ADJUSTMENT TO ALLOW FOR PROPER LOG SETTLEMENT INTERIOR STUD WALLS SHOULD NOT BE BUILT UP AGAINST SUPPORT BEAMS OR SECOND FLOOR JOIST. THEY SHOULD "FLOAT" OR ALLOW A MIN. CLEARANCE OF 2" BETWEEN TOP OF STUD WALL AND BEAM OR JOIST.

2" AIR SPACE TO ALLOW GIRDER TO LOWER WITH LOG SETTLEMENT 4−2X4’S FOR INTERIOR POST, POST TO BE SUPPORTED TO GROUND LEVEL

4X8 SECOND FLOOR JOISTS 24" O.C. NOTCH 6X12 BEAM INTO LOG WALL 3". TOP OF LOG WALL AND TOP OF 6X12 SHOULD BE SAME HEIGHT.

1/2"X 6" LAG SCREW AND WASHER (BY OTHERS)

TURN END STUD’S EDGEWISE AND FASTEN TO LOG WALL WITH 1/2" X 6" LAG SCREWS AND WASHERS BY OTHERS

2X6 T&G SECOND FLOOR DECKING 6X12 SECOND FLOOR GIRDER BEAM

DOUBLE TOP PLATE

2X4 STUD WALL 16" O.C.

SEE PLAN FOR LOG STYLE.

ALL INTERIOR STUD WALLS ON FIRST FLOOR SHOULD BE FLOATING STUD WALLS

SOLID BLOCKING UNDER ALL POSTS SEE BLOCKING DETAIL

SINGLE BOTTOM PLATE

3D VIEW OF GIRDER AND FLOATING STUDWALL ATTACHMENT TO LOG WALL

FLOATING STUD WALL Construction Guide Appendix

Page 26

EXPOSED STAIRS N.T.S.

4X8 JOIST 24"O.C. 6X12 BEAM

3X12 TREAD

1 1/2" NOSING 6X6 ADJUSTABLE POST 3X12 STRINGER

SCREW JACK ASSEMBLY

Construction Guide Appendix

HEIGHT VARIES FROM LOG STYLE TO FLOOR JOIST PLACEMENT

2X6 T&G DECKING.

Page 27

INSULATION GASKET TO BE USED ON TOP OF BOTH TONGUES BETWEEN EACH COURSE OF LOGS

OWNER TO LOCATE AND DRILL FOR ELECTRICAL WIRING AS LOGS ARE ERECTED

12" LAG BOLT S APPX 30" O.C.

ELECTRICAL OUTLET BOX

10" OLY SCREWS IN SADDLE NOTCH CORNER OVERHANGS

CHALK LINE 6" FROM SUBFLOOR EDGE BEFORE SETTING FIRST COURSE OF LOGS. THE INSIDE WALL OF YOUR LOG WALL SYSTEM WILL MEET THIS LINE.

CAULKING AFTER LOGS ARE ERECTED BY OWNER 1 1/2"

REMOVE THE EDGE OF THE PLYWOOD SHEETS AT SUBFLOOR EDGE UNDER LOGS

X NO

LOG

PLYWOOD DOUBLE RIM JOIST

FACTORY GROOVE IS STILL ON THE PLYWOOD EDGE

LOG

PLYWOOD

DOUBLE RIM JOIST

FACTORY TONGUE IS STILL ON THE PLYWOOD EDGE

Construction Guide Appendix

YES

DOUBLE RIM JOIST

EDGE OF PLYWOOD IS REMOVED TO SOLID PLYWOOD

USE 7/16" OSB IN GROOVES TO HAVE FLAT SURFACE ON FIRST COURSE

8X8 D LOG N.T.S.

Page 28

INSULATION GASKET TO BE USED BETWEEN EACH COURSE OF LOGS ON TOP OF BOTH TONGUES

OWNER TO LOCATE AND DRILL FOR ELECTRICALWIRING AS LOGS ARE ERECTED-BOTTOM 2 COURSES

12" LAG BOLT S APPX 30" O.C.

CHALK LINE 6" FROM SUBFLOOR EDGE BEFORE SETTING FIRST COURSE OF LOGS. THE INSIDE WALL OF YOUR LOG WALL SYSTEM WILL MEET THIS LINE.

CAULKING BY OWNERS AFTER LOGS ARE ERECTED 1 1/2"

USE 7/16" OSB IN GROOVES TO HAVE FLAT SURFACE ON FIRST COURSE REMOVE THE EDGE OF THE PLYWOOD SHEETS AT SUBFLOOR EDGE UNDER LOGS

log

FACTORY GROOVE IS STILL ON THE PLYWOOD EDGE

plywood

double rim joist

log

plywood plywood

double rim joist

FACTORY TONGUE IS STILL ON THE PLYWOOD EDGE

Construction Guide Appendix

8" ROUND-LOG

double rim joist

YES

N.T.S.

EDGE OF PLYWOOD IS REMOVED TO SOLID PLYWOOD

Page 29

INSULATION GASKET TO BE USED ON TOP OF BOTH TONGUES BETWEEN EACH COURSE OF LOGS

OWNER TO LOCATE AND DRILL FOR ELECTRICALWIRING AS LOGS ARE ERECTED

12" LAG BOLT S APPX 30" O.C. 10" OLY SCREWS IN SADDLE NOTCH CORNER OVERHANGS

CHALK LINE 4" FROM SUBFLOOR EDGE BEFORE SETTING FIRST COURSE OF LOGS. THE INSIDE WALL OF YOUR LOG WALL SYSTEM WILL MEET THIS LINE.

CAULKING AFTER LOGS ARE ERECTED BY OWNER 1 1/2"

REMOVE THE EDGE OF THE PLYWOOD SHEETS AT SUBFLOOR EDGE UNDER LOGS

X NO

LOG

PLYWOOD DOUBLE RIM JOIST

FACTORY GROOVE IS STILL ON THE PLYWOOD EDGE

LOG

PLYWOOD

DOUBLE RIM JOIST

FACTORY TONGUE IS STILL ON THE PLYWOOD EDGE

Construction Guide Appendix

YES

DOUBLE RIM JOIST

USE 7/16" OSB IN GROOVES TO HAVE FLAT SURFACE ON FIRST COURSE

6X8 D LOG N.T.S.

EDGE OF PLYWOOD IS REMOVED TO SOLID PLYWOOD

Page 30

INSULATION GASKET TO BE USED ON TOP OF BOTH TONGUES BETWEEN EACH COURSE OF LOGS

OWNER TO LOCATE AND DRILL FOR ELECTRICAL WIRING AS LOGS ARE ERECTED

14" LAG BOLT S APPX 30" O.C. ELECTRICAL OUTLET BOX 1/8" FOAM BACKING BY OWNER (OPTIONAL) CHALK LINE 4 1/2" FROM SUBFLOOR EDGE BEFORE SETTING FIRST COURSE OF LOGS. THE INSIDE WALL OF YOUR LOG WALL SYSTEM WILL MEET THIS LINE.

CHINKING BY OWNER (OPTIONAL) CAULKING AFTER LOGS ARE ERECTED BY OWNER 1"

REMOVE THE EDGE OF THE PLYWOOD SHEETS AT SUBFLOOR EDGE UNDER LOGS

X NO

LOG

PLYWOOD DOUBLE RIM JOIST

FACTORY GROOVE IS STILL ON THE PLYWOOD EDGE

LOG

PLYWOOD

DOUBLE RIM JOIST

FACTORY TONGUE IS STILL ON THE PLYWOOD EDGE

Construction Guide Appendix

YES

DOUBLE RIM JOIST

EDGE OF PLYWOOD IS REMOVED TO SOLID PLYWOOD

4 1/2"

USE 7/16" OSB IN BOTH GROOVES TO HAVE FLAT SURFACE ON FIRST COURSE

6X12 LOG ON LOG N.T.S.

Page 31

14" LAG BOLT S 30" O.C. OWNER TO LOCATE AND DRILL FOR ELECTRICALWIRING AS LOGS ARE ERECTED

USE 8" OLY SCREWS 24" O.C. TO SECURE WOOD SPACER TO LOG 1/8" FOAM BACKING (OPTIONAL) BY OWNER

ELECTRICAL OUTLET BOX

CHINKING (RQD) CHALK LINE 4 1/2" FROM SUBFLOOR EDGE BEFORE SETTING FIRST COURSE OF LOGS. THE INSIDE WALL OF YOUR LOG WALL SYSTEM WILL MEET THIS LINE.

WOOD SPACER CAULKING AFTER LOGS ARE ERECTED BY OWNER 1"

REMOVE THE EDGE OF THE PLYWOOD SHEETS AT SUBFLOOR EDGE UNDER LOGS

X NO

LOG

PLYWOOD DOUBLE RIM JOIST

FACTORY GROOVE IS STILL ON THE PLYWOOD EDGE

LOG

PLYWOOD

DOUBLE RIM JOIST

FACTORY TONGUE IS STILL ON THE PLYWOOD EDGE

Construction Guide Appendix

YES

DOUBLE RIM JOIST

EDGE OF PLYWOOD IS REMOVED TO SOLID PLYWOOD

4 1/2"

USE 7/16" OSB IN GROOVES TO HAVE FLAT SURFACE ON FIRST COURSE

6X12 PIONEER LOG N.T.S.

Page 32

INSULATION GASKET TO BE USED ON TOP OF BOTH TONGUES BETWEEN EACH COURSE OF LOGS

OWNER TO LOCATE AND DRILL FOR ELECTRICALWIRING AS LOGS ARE ERECTED

14" LAG BOLT S APPX 30" O.C. 14" OLY SCREWS IN SADDLE NOTCH CORNER OVERHANGS

ELECTRICAL OUTLET BOX CHALK LINE 6" FROM SUBFLOOR EDGE BEFORE SETTING FIRST COURSE OF LOGS. THE INSIDE WALL OF YOUR LOG WALL SYSTEM WILL MEET THIS LINE.

CAULKING AFTER LOGS ARE ERECTED BY OWNER

1 1/2"

REMOVE THE EDGE OF THE PLYWOOD SHEETS AT SUBFLOOR EDGE UNDER LOGS

X NO

LOG

PLYWOOD DOUBLE RIM JOIST

FACTORY GROOVE IS STILL ON THE PLYWOOD EDGE

LOG

PLYWOOD

DOUBLE RIM JOIST

FACTORY TONGUE IS STILL ON THE PLYWOOD EDGE

Construction Guide Appendix

YES

DOUBLE RIM JOIST

EDGE OF PLYWOOD IS REMOVED TO SOLID PLYWOOD

USE 7/16" OSB IN GROOVES TO HAVE FLAT SURFACE ON FIRST COURSE

8X12 D LOG N.T.S.

Page 33

INSULATION GASKET TO BE USED ON TOP OF BOTH TONGUES BETWEEN EACH COURSE OF LOGS

OWNER TO LOCATE AND DRILL FOR ELECTRICALWIRING AS LOGS ARE ERECTED

14" LAG BOLT S APPX 30" O.C.

ELECTRICAL OUTLET BOX 1"

CHALK LINE 6" FROM SUBFLOOR EDGE BEFORE SETTING FIRST COURSE OF LOGS. THE INSIDE WALL OF YOUR LOG WALL SYSTEM WILL MEET THIS LINE.

CAULKING AFTER LOGS ARE ERECTED BY OWNER

1 1/2"

REMOVE THE EDGE OF THE PLYWOOD SHEETS AT SUBFLOOR EDGE UNDER LOGS

X NO

LOG

PLYWOOD DOUBLE RIM JOIST

FACTORY GROOVE IS STILL ON THE PLYWOOD EDGE

LOG

PLYWOOD

DOUBLE RIM JOIST

FACTORY TONGUE IS STILL ON THE PLYWOOD EDGE

Construction Guide Appendix

YES

DOUBLE RIM JOIST

EDGE OF PLYWOOD IS REMOVED TO SOLID PLYWOOD

USE 7/16" OSB IN GROOVES TO HAVE FLAT SURFACE ON FIRST COURSE

8X12 D LOG DOVETAIL N.T.S.

Page 34

INSULATION GASKET TO BE USED ON TOP OF BOTH TONGUES BETWEEN EACH COURSE OF LOGS

OWNER TO LOCATE AND DRILL FOR ELECTRICAL WIRING AS LOGS ARE ERECTED

14" LAG BOLT S APPX 30" O.C. ELECTRICAL OUTLET BOX 1/8" FOAM BACKING BY OWNER (OPTIONAL) CHALK LINE 6 1/2" FROM SUBFLOOR EDGE BEFORE SETTING FIRST COURSE OF LOGS. THE INSIDE WALL OF YOUR LOG WALL SYSTEM WILL MEET THIS LINE.

CHINKING BY OWNER (OPTIONAL) CAULKING AFTER LOGS ARE ERECTED BY OWNER 1"

REMOVE THE EDGE OF THE PLYWOOD SHEETS AT SUBFLOOR EDGE UNDER LOGS

X NO

LOG

PLYWOOD DOUBLE RIM JOIST

FACTORY GROOVE IS STILL ON THE PLYWOOD EDGE

LOG

PLYWOOD

DOUBLE RIM JOIST

FACTORY TONGUE IS STILL ON THE PLYWOOD EDGE

Construction Guide Appendix

YES

DOUBLE RIM JOIST

EDGE OF PLYWOOD IS REMOVED TO SOLID PLYWOOD

6 1/2"

USE 7/16" OSB IN GROOVES TO HAVE FLAT SURFACE ON FIRST COURSE

8X12 LOG ON LOG N.T.S.

Page 35

SPLICING THE 6X12 GIRDER BEAM N.T.S. SPLICES IN 6X12 BEAM SHOULD BE PLACED DIRECTLY ON AN ADJUSTABLE POST. THIS IS THE ONLY ACCEPTABLE METHOD TO SPLICE THE BEAM. 6X12 BEAM ADJUSTABLE POST (SCREW JACK) ASSEMBLY

4−2X4 STUDS

JOIST STRAPPING JOIST STRAPPING 6X12 BEAM 6X

4−3/8"X2 1/2" LAGS (BY OWNER)

E 2B

4−3/8"X2 1/2" LAGS (BY OWNER)

E 2B

ADJUSTABLE SCREW JACK ASSEMBLY

16d NAILS

4−2X4 STUDS

NOTE: IF ADJUSTABLE POST IS TO BE PLACED IN STUD WALLBE CERTAIN SCREW JACK IS PLACED ON TOP OF 4−2X4 POSTS BUILT TO 3 1/2" WIDTH. IF ADJUSTABLE POST IS TO BE EXPOSED PLACE SCREW JACK ON BOTTOM OF POST BEHIND REMOVABLE TRIM.

Construction Guide Appendix

Page 36

FLOOR JOIST & RAFTER END ATTACHMENT N.T.S. 4X8 RAFTERS 48" O.C. (TYP) 4X8 FLOOR JOISTS 24" O.C. (TYP)

6x12 GIRDER BEAM JOISTS AND RAFTERS INSET APROX. 1" FROM OUTER EDGE OF FLAT SURFACE ON TOP OF LOG TO ALLOW SIDING TO FIT OVER END OF SECOND FLOOR JOISTS FOR SNOW− BLOCKING

Construction Guide Appendix

RAFTERS AND JOISTS SHOULD BE FASTENED TOGETHER AT ALL POSSIBLE INTERVALS, GIVING GREATER STRUCTURAL STABILITY TO THE LOG WALLS.

Page 37

RAFTER & FLOOR JOIST CONNECTION N.T.S. RAFTERS AND JOISTS SHOULD BE FASTENED TOGETHER AT ALL POSSIBLE INTERVALS, GIVING GREATER STRUCTURAL STABILITY TO THE LOG WALLS. BA R

24" T

RAF

TER

RJ O IS T

JOISTS AND RAFTERS INSET APROX. 3/8" TO ALLOW SIDING TO FIT OVER END OF SECOND FLOOR JOISTS FOR SNOW− BLOCKING TOP COURSE OF LOG

Construction Guide Appendix

Page 38

PREMIER ROOF & SECOND FLOOR SYSTEMS N.T.S. STAGGER DECKING NAIL PATTERN TO AVOID A CONTINUOUS SEAM ALONG RAFTER

WHEREVER POSSIBLE, FLOOR JOISTS AND RAFTERS WILL BE FASTENED TO THE LOG WALL AND TO EACH OTHER

48"

MATCHING LOG SIDING IN GABLE END

48"

7/16" OSB SHEATHING

48"

TYVEK HOUSE WRAP

48"

24" 24"

4X8 HOUSE RAFTER

4X8 SECOND FLOOR JOIST

FLOOR JOISTS AND RAFTERS INSET APPROX. 1" TO ALLOW FOR PORCH KNEE WALL OSB & SIDING

NOTCH PORCH POST AND ATTACH PLATE TO POST USING LAG BOLTS

4x8 PORCH SIDE PLATE NOTCHED INTO LOG WALL 6X6 PORCH POSTS 4X8 PORCH PLATE TO SUPPORT PORCH RAFTERS

Construction Guide Appendix

Page 39

RAFTER & JOIST LAYOUT N.T.S.

WHEREVER POSSIBLE, FLOOR JOISTS AND RAFTERS WILL BE FASTENED TO THE LOG WALL AND TO EACH OTHER

4X8 HOUSE RAFTER 4 3

4X8 SECOND FLOOR JOIST

2 1

7/16" OSB SHEATHING TYVEK HOUSE WRAP

48" 48" 4 2 1

24"

OUTSIDE EDGE OF BARGE RAFTER FLUSH WITH END OF EXTENDED LOG.

FLOOR JOISTS AND RAFTERS INSET APPROX. 1" TO ALLOW FOR PORCH KNEE WALL OSB & SIDING

Construction Guide Appendix

RAFTER AND FLOORJOIST SPACING AND LOCATION DETERMINED PER PLAN.

Page 40

FLOOR JOIST ATTACHMENT TO TOP OF LOG WALL N.T.S.

PROFILE LOG SIDING 2X6 STUD WALL

2X6 T&G DECKING

TYVEK HOUSE WRAP 7/16" OSB STUDWALL SHEATHING 2X8 FLOOR BAND

4x8 FLOOR JOISTS 24" O.C. PRE−DRILL & SECURE FLOOR JOIST TO LOG WALL WITH 12" LAG BOLT

2X6 T&G DECKING FASCIA BOARD

FALSE RAFTER TAIL UNDER SHED DORMER Construction Guide Appendix

Page 41

NOTCHED FLOOR JOIST ATTACHMENT N.T.S. TYVEK HOUSE WRAP PROFILE LOG SIDING 2X6 STUD WALL

7/16" OSB STUDWALL SHEATHING NOTCH FLOOR JOIST INTO LOG WALL 3"

2X6 T&G DECKING 2X6 T&G DECKING 4x8 FLOOR JOISTS 24" O.C. PRE−DRILL & SECURE FLOOR JOIST TO LOG WALL WITH 12" LAG BOLT

Construction Guide Appendix

FASCIA BOARD FALSE RAFTER TAIL UNDER SHED DORMER

Page 42

FRAMING TO LOG WALL ATTACHMENT N.T.S.

ALL ATTACHMENTS OF ROOFS BUILT ON TOP OF STUD WALLS TO ROOFS BUILT ON TOP OF LOG WALLS SHOULD BE THROUGH SLOTS TO ALLOW SETTLING.

2 BEADS CAULK

MORTISE 1 1/2" DEEP

2X6 OR 2X4 STUD NAILED THROUGH SLOTS THE 2x INSERT SHOULD BE TOTAL WIDTH OF THE WALL WILL BUTT AGAINST INSERT

A LL LOG W

SECOND STUD

1 1/2"X2"

STUDS 16" O.C. TYP OSB & TYVEK

SEAL BUTT JOINT WITH CAULK

LOG PROFILE SIDING

Construction Guide Appendix

Page 43

PREMIER ROOF SYSTEM N.T.S.

2x6 TONGUE & GROOVE DECKING 30# ROOFING FELT VAPOR BARRIER LAYER #2 OVER OSB SHEATHING, UNDER FINISHED ROOFING (BY OWNER)

30# ROOFING FELT VAPOR BARRIER LAYER #1 UNDER ISOVENT PANELS 3x12 RIDGE BEAM

4x8 RAFTERS AND COLLAR TIES 48" O.C. VENTED POLYISO INSULATION PANEL 1x FASCIA DORMER STUD WALL 7/16" OSB SHEATHING

30# ROOFING FELT VAPOR BARRIER LAYER #2 OVER OSB SHEATHING, UNDER FINISHED ROOFING (BY OWNER)

Construction Guide Appendix

2X BLOCKING

VENTED POLYISO (2 LAYERS)

2x6 TONGUE & GROOVE DECKING

Page 44

RAFTERS WITH LONG COLLARS N.T.S.

CONTINUIOUS RIDGE VENT BY OWNER 8" OLY FASTENER (ONE EACH RAFTER)

RIDGE BEAM

HOUSE RAFTER

7/16" O.S.B.

2X6 T&G DECKING POLYISO INSULATION PANEL

30# FELT

FINISHED ROOFING BY OWNER

ONE LAYER OVER DECKING AND ONE LAYER OVER O.S.B.

2X6 T&G DECKING INSULATE OR CAULK V−JOINTS IN T&G OVER GABLE STUD WALLS

1/2" x 6" ZINC PLATED BOLTS−DRILL AND THROUGHBOLT. (COUNTERBORE 1 1/4" DIA. 1" DEEP BOTH OUTSIDE ENDS) BOLTS MAY BE CONCEALED WITH 1 1/4" DOWEL PLUGS APPROX 2" LONG.

4−1/2" BOLTS PER COLLAR END (TOTAL 8 BOLTS PER COLLAR) TYPICAL

4x8 COLLAR TIE MAX. HEIGHT FROM TOP OF LOG WALL SHOULD BE NO MORE THAN 1/3 DISTANCE OF TOTAL ROOF HEIGHT WHEN COLLAR TIE IS PLACED OVER OPEN AREA

CONTINUOUS CORNICE VENT BY OWNER

2x6 SNOW BLOCKING RIPPED TO THICKNESS OF ISO−VENT

12" LAG BOLT FASCIA BOARD

PRE−DRILL & SECURE TO LOG WALL

NOTE: DOUBLE SNOW BLOCKING AND INSULATION TO BE INSTALLED BETWEEN RAFTERS BEFORE 2x6 T&G DECKING IS INSTALLED. (BY OWNER)

Construction Guide Appendix

Page 45

PREMIER ROOF SECTION CONTINUIOUS RIDGE VENT BY OWNER 8" OLY FASTENER (ONE EACH RAFTER)

N.T.S.

RIDGE BEAM

HOUSE RAFTER

7/16" O.S.B.

2X6 T&G DECKING

POLYISO INSULATION PANEL

1/2" x 6" ZINC PLATED BOLTS−DRILL AND THROUGHBOLT. (COUNTERBORE 1 1/4" DIA. 1" DEEP BOTH OUTSIDE ENDS) BOLTS MAY BE CONCEALED WITH 1 1/4" DOWEL PLUGS APPROX 2" LONG.

30# FELT ONE LAYER OVER DECKING AND ONE LAYER OVER O.S.B.

2X6 T&G DECKING INSULATE OR CAULK V−JOINTS IN T&G OVER GABLE STUD WALLS

4X8 COLLAR TIE TO BE PLACED 8’−0" FROM TOP OF LOG WALL TO BOTTOM OF COLLAR TIE OVER SECOND FLOOR AREA. M E A S U R E F R OM TOP OF L OG TO BOTTOM OF COL L A R

6x6 POST TO RIDGE BEAM

12 SEE PLAN

8'-0"

4−1/2" BOLTS PER COLLAR END (TOTAL 8 BOLTS PER COLLAR) TYPICAL

FINISHED ROOFING BY OWNER

JOIST STRAP CONTINUOUS CORNICE VENT BY OWNER 2x6 SNOW BLOCKING RIPPED TO THICKNESS OF ISO−VENT FASCIA BOARD NOTE: DOUBLE SNOW BLOCKING AND INSULATION TO BE INSTALLED BETWEEN RAFTERS BEFORE 2x6 T&G DECKING IS INSTALLED. (BY OWNER)

OWNER TO USE JOIST STRAPPING ON TOP OF JOISTS BEFORE INSTALLING 2x6 DECKING

4x8 FLOOR JOISTS 24" O.C. 12" LAG BOLT PRE−DRILL & SECURE TO LOG WALL

BEFORE SETTING SECOND FLOOR JOISTS, MARK LOCATION OF RAFTERS ON TOP LOG PLATE. SET AND LAG BOLT JOISTS TO TOP LOG PLATE. SET RAFTERS NEXT TO JOISTS AND BOLT RAFTERS TO LOG WALL AND TO JOISTS WHERE POSSIBLE. SEE SECOND FLOOR JOIST AND ROOF FRAMING PLANS FOR SPACING. (BOLTS, NUTS AND WASHERS BY OWNER)

Construction Guide Appendix

2X6 T&G DECKING

4x8 FLOOR JOISTS 24" O.C. 12" LAG BOLT PRE−DRILL AND SECURE FLOOR JOISTS TO GIRDER BEAM

4−2x4’S FOR INTERIOR ADJUSTABLE POST

12" LAG BOLT 6x12 GIRDER BEAM

PRE−DRILL & SECURE TO LOG WALL

SCREW JACK ASSEMBLY

Page 46

SHED DORMER SECTION 8" OLY FASTENER (ONE EACH RAFTER)

N.T.S.

CONTINUIOUS RIDGE VENT BY OWNER RIDGE BEAM

HOUSE RAFTER 2X6 T&G DECKING 7/16" O.S.B.

SHED DORMER RAFTER

POLYISO INSULATION PANEL 12

3 MIN. SEE PLAN

30# FELT ONE LAYER OVER DECKING AND ONE LAYER OVER O.S.B.

4−1/2" BOLTS PER COLLAR END (TOTAL 8 BOLTS PER COLLAR) TYPICAL

2X6 T&G DECKING INSULATE OR CAULK V−JOINTS IN T&G OVER GABLE STUD WALLS

DOUBLE TOP PLATE

4x8 COLLAR TIE

2X6 STUD WALL

6x6 SUPPORT POST TO RIDGE STUD WALL AT 5’−0" HEAD CLEARANCE (OR PER LOCAL CODE)

12 SEE PLAN

JOIST STRAP

CONTINUOUS CORNICE VENT BY OWNER 2x6 SNOW BLOCKING RIPPED TO THICKNESS OF ISO−VENT

OWNER TO USE JOIST STRAPPING ON TOP OF JOISTS BEFORE INSTALLING 2x6 DECKING

4x8 FLOOR JOISTS 24" O.C. 12" LAG BOLT

FASCIA BOARD

PROFILE LOG SIDING

1/2" INSULATION BOARD

SEE PLA NS FOR EXA C T DORM ER WA LL HEIGHT

FINISHED ROOFING BY OWNER

1/2" x 6" ZINC PLATED BOLTS− DRILL AND THROUGHBOLT. (COUNTERBORE 1 1/4" DIA. 1" DEEP BOTH OUTSIDE ENDS) BOLTS MAY BE CONCEALED WITH 1 1/4" DOWEL PLUGS APPROX 2" LONG.

PRE−DRILL & SECURE TO LOG WALL

NOTE: DOUBLE SNOW BLOCKING AND INSULATION TO BE INSTALLED BETWEEN RAFTERS BEFORE 2x6 T&G DECKING IS INSTALLED. (BY OWNER)

Construction Guide Appendix

2X6 T&G DECKING

4x8 FLOOR JOISTS 24" O.C. 12" LAG BOLT PRE−DRILL AND SECURE FLOOR JOISTS TO GIRDER BEAM

4−2x4’S FOR INTERIOR ADJUSTABLE POST

12" LAG BOLT 6x12 GIRDER BEAM SCREW JACK ASSEMBLY

PRE−DRILL & SECURE TO LOG WALL

FALSE RAFTER TAIL UNDER SHED DORMER

Page 47

SIDEMOUNT COLLAR ATTACHMENT N.T.S.

COUNTERSINK 1"

A R

COUNTERSINK HOLE FOR DOWEL IS 15/16" dia. X 1" DEEP.

4x COLLAR TIE

1/2"x6" THRU BOLT

FT ER

3 1/2" 3 1/2"

4x COLLAR TIE

1" DOWEL (BY OWNER)

4x RAFTER

CENTER HOLE FOR BOLT IS 5/8" dia.

F RA 4x R TE 4x C O L

LAR

TIE

1" DOWEL (BY OWNER)

Construction Guide Appendix

1/2"x6" THRU BOLT

NOTE: WHEN USING THE SIDEMOUNTING METHOD OF COLLAR ATTACHMENT, USE 1/2"X6" THRU BOLTS, WASHERS, AND NUTS. COUNTERSINK THE BOLT 1". THIS WILL ALLOW ROOM TO INSERT A 1" DIA. DECORATIVE DOWEL IN THE COUNTERSINK FOR A FINISHED LOOK.

Page 48

CLASSIC COLLAR TIE ATTACHMENT N.T.S. PREDRILL AND COUNTER SINK SCABS AS SHOWN USING 1/2" THROUGH BOLTS, WASHERS, AND NUTS (BY OTHERS). PLUG HOLES WITH SHORT PIECES OF 1" DOWEL FOR DECORATIVE EFFECT (BY OTHERS)

4X8 RAFTER

USE SIMPSON PT35 METAL PLATE OR METAL BANDING UNDER SCABS TO TIE COLLAR TO RAFTER (EACH SIDE)

4X8 COLLAR

RA FT ER

4x C O LL

10" LAG BOLT

2X8 SCAB EACH SIDE OF COLLAR

2x8 SCAB

THE RAFTER COLLAR ATTACHMENT IS CRITICAL TO THE STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY OF YOUR ROOF SYSTEM AND LOG WALL SYSTEM. ATTACHMENT USING THROUGH BOLTS AS SHOWN IS RECCOMMENDED. ALTERNATIVE METHODS INCLUDE 1/2"X3" LAG BOLTS. USE OF COMMON 16D NAILS IS NOT RECCOMMENDED.

6 1/2"

1 1/2" 3 1/2" 1 1/2" 2x8 SCAB

NOTE: WHEN CHOOSING THEC LASSIC COLLAR TIE OPTION, USE 1/2"X7 1/2" ZINC THRU BOLTS, WASHERS, AND NUTS.

RA 4x

1/2"x7 1/2" THRU BOLT

2x8 SCAB

1/2"x7 1/2" THRU BOLT

A R TI E

7 1/2" BOLT

1/2"x7 1/2" THRU BOLT

4x COLLAR TIE

4x COLLAR TIE 4x RAFTER

Construction Guide Appendix

Page 49

AIR FLOW CHANNEL DETAIL N.T.S.

2X6 TONGUE & GROOVE DECKING 2 30# ROOFING FELT

POLYISO INSULATION PANEL (2 LAYERS)

CIRCLED NUMBERS INDICATE ORDER OF INSTALLATION TO MAINTAIN PROPER AIR FLOW.

LY O TI

7/16" OSB DECKING

30# ROOFING FELT

NOTE:

AIR FLOW SEE NOTE

2X6 TONGUE & GROOVE DECKING 6 PO R

CH R A FT E R

PORCH KNEE WALL CONT. VENT CUT AND TRIM ROOF INSULATION PANELS AROUND PORCH RAFTERS AS NEEDED TO MAINTAIN AIR FLOW CHANNEL AND TO INSULATE THE ENTIRE HOUSE ROOF FROM RIDGE TO LOG WALL.

Construction Guide Appendix

LOG SIDING

PORCH PLATE

IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO MAINTAIN AN AIR FLOW CHANNEL FROM THE CONTINUOUS VENT IN THE KNEE WALL TO THE RIDGE VENT. PORCH ROOF 2X6 TONGUE & GROOVE DECKING MUST STOP SHORT OF THE HOUSE ROOF 2X6 TONGUE & GROOVE DECKING SO AS NOT TO OBSTRUCT AIR FLOW.

LOG WALL

Page 50

PREMIER ROOF LAYERING DETAIL N.T.S. 2X6 T&G DECKING 4X8 RAFTERS 48" 0.C.

BARGE RAFTER

24"

3X12 RIDGE BEAM

24"

#30 ROOFING FELT LAYER #1

48"

TOP PLATE TO BE SAME HEIGHT AS TOP OF RAFTERS. D W A

PUT CAULK ON TOP PLATE

B LE

S TU

6X6 SUPPORT POST UNDER RIDGE

GABLE END STUD WALL

AIR FLOW VENT IN OVERHANG

Construction Guide Appendix

POLYISO INSULATION PANELS

7/16" OSB SHEATHING

#30 ROOFING FELT LAYER #2

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CONVENTIONAL ROOF COLLAR ATTACHMENT N.T.S. CONVENTIONAL ROOF COLLAR TIE ATTACHMENT WITH 2X RAFTERS AND COLLARS N.T.S.

CONVENTIONAL ROOF WITH 4" COLLARS N.T.S. WITH 4X8 COLLAR TIE AND BOLTS CONCEALED IN CEILING. BORE 1/2" DIA. DO NOT COUNTERBORE

WITH 2X8 COLLAR TIE AND CONCEALED HOUSE RAFTERS. FASTEN COLLAR TIE TO RAFTER WITH 16D NAILS TYP (PER LOCAL CODE).

2x HO

A ER

2X FT ER

TI E

RA 2 X8 C O LL A R

4X 8

C O LL

AR T IE

1/2" X 6" BOLT, 2 WASHERS, & 1 NUT DRILL AND THROUGH BOLT.

Construction Guide Appendix

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CONVENTIONAL ROOF WITH FLAT CEILING N.T.S.

MIN. 1" AIR FLOW OVER INSULATION MIN. 1" AIR FLOW OVER INSULATION SHEATHING (SEE PLANS FOR SIZE & SPECIFICATIONS)

12 SEE PLAN

SOLID BLOCKING & /OR INSULATION BAFFLE (BY OWNER)

2x RAFTERS (SEE PLANS FOR SIZE & SPECIFICATIONS) BATT INSULATION (BY OWNER)

GUTTER (BY OWNER)

ENCLOSE EAVE OVERHANG WITH SOFFIT MATERIAL. FASCIA TO COVER EDGE OF SHEATHING AND RAFTER. DRIP CAP BETWEEN ROOFING & UNDERLAYMENT AT EDG OF ROOF TO GUTTER IS RECOM− MENDED. PROVIDE MIN. 1" CONT. VENTILATION THROUGH FASCIA OR SOFFIT.

INTERIOR TRIM (BY OWNER)

FINISH CEILING (BY OWNER)

LOG WALL (SEE PLANS FOR EXACT LOG STYLE & SPECIFICATIONS)

CONVENTIONAL ROOF WITH FLAT CEILING N.T.S.

SHEATHING (SEE PLANS FOR SIZE & SPECIFICATIONS)

SEE PLAN

SOLID BLOCKING & /OR INSULATION BAFFLE (BY OWNER)

2x RAFTERS (SEE PLANS FOR SIZE & SPECIFICATIONS) BATT INSULATION (BY OWNER)

GUTTER (BY OWNER)

INTERIOR TRIM (BY OWNER)

FINISH CEILING (BY OWNER)

LOG WALL (SEE PLANS FOR EXACT LOG STYLE & SPECIFICATIONS)

CONVENTIONAL ROOF WITH FLAT CEILING N.T.S.

Construction Guide Appendix

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TYPICAL TRUSS ROOF N.T.S. INSULATION

12 SEE PLAN

INSULATION

FINISH CEILING

SEE PLAN

NO OVERHANG PORCH SIDE FINISH CEILING

FINISH CEILING SEE PLAN FOR LOG STYLE

SCISSOR TRUSS

SEE PLAN FOR LOG STYLE

ATTIC TRUSS STUD WALL STUDS 16" O.C.

PROFILE LOG SIDING, CEDAR SHAKES, OR BOARD & BATTEN 7/16" OSB SHEATHING AND VAPOR BARRIER

12 SEE PLAN

INSULATION NO OVERHANG ON PORCH SIDE FINISH CEILING

SEE PLAN FOR LOG STYLE

PITCHED FLAT CEILING TRUSS

ALL TRUSS DOCUMENTATION WILL COME FROM THE TRUSS MANUFACTURER. Construction Guide Appendix

*SIDING MUST MAKE PROPER WATER SHED OVER LOG WALLS

GABLE END DETAIL MAKE SURE LOG WALLS ARE PLUMB AND LEVEL BEFORE SETTING TRUSSES INSTALL ALL PRE−MANUFACTURED TRUSSES AS PER MANUFACTURER’S SPECIFICATIONS.

Trusses can also be used for framing the roof of a log home. One inch tongue & groove or sheetrock can be applied to the interior for the ceiling. insulation can be blown in, and wiring can be run inside trusses as with conventional homes.

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