Susan Fears shares one of her jacket designs with you!
Ribbon Edged Jacket Created by Susan Fears Create decorative jacket trims using BERNINA Embroidery Software and Pattern Outlines. With BERNINA as your creative partner, a simple jacket becomes a work of art!
Supplies • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
BERNINA Sewing & Embroidery System BERNINA Embroidery Software BERNINA Serger with Differential Feed Boxy Jacket Pattern as from My Label 3-D Pattern Software Large Oval Hoop Mega Hoop Light weight TearAway Stabilizer Fabric for pattern plus extra to cut facings rather than hems Grosgrain Ribbon (7/8”) Embroidery Thread Construction Thread Fusible Interfacing Patchwork Foot #37 Basic sewing supplies
The Pattern The pattern is the Boxy Jacket from the My Label Software. The pattern is a very basic jacket pattern and is unlined. The sleeves were altered for ¾ length style and facings were drafted to replace the hems. The facings then cover up the embroidery on the inside and present a seam for the tulle edging. Cut fabric according to pattern and remember to cut facings.
Creating the Embroidered Edge Creating trim in the BERNINA Embroidery Software has the advantage of planning and previewing the embroidery pattern prior to stitching it. This pattern is a series of buttonholes and a decorative flourish. These can be added to any edge without the software, however the software and embroidery combination create perfectly spaced and aligned trim.
Scan in the printed pattern edges such as the neckline, the front hem and sleeve. For edges with straight lines, use the open object tool and draw an arbitrary straight line. Use Object Properties to define the length of the line – this will be easier than trying to scan in a pattern front that is often longer than the scanner. With the Boxy Jacket, the bottom front hem was curved, but all other edges were straight. Use the open Object Tool>Outline Straight Stitch and trace around the cutting lines for all edges. Assemble the drawn lines to form the entire pattern piece, even if it exceeds the hoop size. It will be possible to design entire pattern pieces, then break them apart if needed to fit inside the hoop. The Multi-hooping Option can assist with this.
Designing the Pattern In the BERNINA Embroidery Software, select the Buttonhole menu and select the standard buttonhole. Set the length to the width of the grosgrain ribbon.
Use Settings>Create Pattern and select all elements to create your own pattern. (Tip: you may have save as a non-Art file, in order to make a pattern into a pattern) Select Arrange>Add Buttonhole. Place 2 buttonholes 1� apart. Use the View>Measure Tool to check spacing. Use Pattern Outline and combine buttonhole elements with Monogram Ornament M082a.
Use Pattern Stamp for extra motifs and curved areas. The repeat for the pattern outline is 4� long. It is too long to make a smooth curve. For necklines, use Pattern Stamp to embellish the curved edge. Use the Measure Tool to verify position from stitch line (indicated on the pattern scan) and between elements.
Spray the stabilizer with 505 Temporary Adhesive and lay the pattern piece (jacket is unassembled) along the placement line. Create embroidery using Pattern Shape as guideline.
Embroider the Edges Depending on the fabric choice an additional support may be needed. Fuse an interfacing, such as Armo Weft, to the area where the embroidery will occur. This is an unlined jacket, so only the embroidery areas are fused.
Embroider all edges of jackets and sleeves. The jacket pieces require 3 ‘hoopings�: one for the neckline, one for top center front, one for the bottom center front. Combined use of Large oval hoop and Mega Hoop provided for the most efficient hooping. Hoop the stabilizer. Stitch the cutting line which serves as a placement line
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Pattern edges are re-cut to have ¼’ seam allowances and all edges are faced with about a 2 ½” facing. This covered up all the embroidery back side and fusing. Attach tulle to jacket edge with the Patchwork Foot #37, guiding more to ⅛” marking. Apply facings with the Patchwork Foot #37 using a ¼” seam allowance. Tack facings as needed.
After embroidery, remove the excess stabilizer. Before assembling the jacket, cut open the buttonholes with the buttonhole cutter and block. It will be easier to cut them open now rather than once the jacket is sewn up. Create Decorative Tulle Edging
Sew pattern as indicated. Thread ribbon through buttonholes. Sleeves have the ribbon tied on top of the fabric. The jacket edge ribbon is pinned (safety pin) under the facing (so it can be removed for washing OR to add another ribbon color). Cut 2” strips of black tulle (end to end). I did not piece the strips, just added them into the seam when I needed them. Fold and lightly gather on the serger using a 3 thread setup (DF=1.5 Stitch length = 3).
Finish the Jacket Edges
All Designer jackets have their own labels. Scan your signature into the BERNINA Embroidery Software and use the auto-digitizing tool to set stitches to your signature. Embroider and add to the facing of your jacket. Keep this design stored in your machines memory for easy access for adding a personalized label to all your work!