UMASS/AMHERST
312DbbDllfl27133
^^-'^^--^i^tS.^
Old Roads Alone ^ the I!
of
Cape Ann
PRINTED BY & A. H. MCKENZIE GLOUCESTER, MASS.
F. S.
1923
Copyright. 1923
By Cape Ann
Scientific
All
and Literary Association
rights reserved
To Mrs.
SARAH
C.
ROGERS,
WHOSE INTIMATE KNOWLEDGE OF THE "OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN" HAS MADE POSSIBLE. THE CAPE AND LITERARY ASSOCI-
THESE CHAPTERS
ANN
SCIENTIFIC
ATION. AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBES THIS
MODEST PUBUCATION.
FOREWORD This
little
book
in
going forth on
its
two-fold mission
seeks to guide the stranger into pleasant paths hitherto
unknown them
him
well, the
haunts. is
to
No
;
and
to bring
back
to
him who knows
cheerful recollection of old beloved
liberty of trespassing
here encouraged, and
it is
on another's property
hoped
that an earnest desire
to conserve our native flowers has
been engendered.
among quotations from the may be found from our own
Scattered here and there old familiar poets, lines native writers;
these
we
wish to acknowledge and
also express our thankful appreciation to
A.
Foster,
Mr. Harold Trowbridge
Joseph Auslander
for
Miss Edna
Pulsifer
and Mr.
permission to use their verse.
"So
will
And And
I
build
my
the blue sky
altar in the fields,
my
fretted
dome
shall
be;
the sweet fragrance that the wild-flower fields
Shall be the incense
I
will yield to
Thee/*
I
TO SPLIT-ROCK PASTURE FOR SKUNK CABBAGE Cape Ann,
|E were within three leagues of
and
we
as
saw every
and every island
gay woods and high
we came
to the shore, the
sometimes joined
which
we
or
supposed to be brought
full
The
trees.
more flowers
sheets nine
in
in
ten in
nearer
yards long,
by the
five
us to a fine sweet harbor,
where there was an
of our
strawberries,
God was the sweet
and
men went
gooseberries,
six o'clock
and
merciful in giving us a taste fruit
month
And
island
roses.
back
Thus
and smell
of
as an earnest of his bountiful goodness.**
This quaint entry Higginson makes the
tide.
brought
ashore, bringing single
of
abundance;
A westerly wind between where four
we
along the coast,
sailed hill
of June,
now,
if
1
in his
Journal in
629.
we
wish to seek out our
Spring flower, and see Nature
earliest
in its first unfolding,
we must take our walk in the breezy month of March. The Skunk Cabbage is sometimes found earlier, but it is
safer to wait
till
the middle of March.
start at
the foot of Mt.
known
locality to
for
a stranger
we
Vernon
St.,
people resident
might say,
start
which
We is
in Gloucester,
from the
will
a well-
but
post-office.
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
10
go up Pleasant
walk
St. to Prospect, turn to the right
we
Mt. Vernon, which
to
hill,
following the road
which crosses
moment this
Now we
St.,
till
of
view
Lamb
viewing
turn
we come
We
the woods.
across
we come
till
at right angles;
to enjoy the fine
point.
Perkins
it
this
locality
was a
the
name
the
later;
we
swamp on
Do
up
opportunity
entire
this
and from the the rocks,
not
of
We
the
fact
got
to extricate themselves,
Lamb
Ledge.
to the right across the ballground,
well defined public way. in
fine
among
soon come out on the old Rockport
Cabbage.
going
left,
Once
moraine.
and were unable
the place acquired the
and
stop a
a path leading up into
to
large sheep pasture,
keep
we
of the harbor visible at to
that the lambs often strayed
We
to Perkins St.,
unusual assemblage of rocks, a
of the terminal
in,
left.
go up the
follow this path, which takes us
section
wedged
we
and here
Ledge, and gives us a
in
on the
find
Starting then from the foot of the street,
and
Road which
walk along
left,
we
look fbr leaves,
find
this
the
— they
and is
a
road,
Skunk appear
shall only see pointed spathes, piercing the
brown, cheerless meadow. "Come gentle Spring! And from the bosom
ethereal mildness! come,
yon dropping cloud, While music wakes around veil'd in a shower
Of shadowing
roses,
This plant belongs
of
on our plains descend."
to the
Arum
family, the tiny
flowers being ranged along the spadix, like the Calla
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN Lily to
which
it is
II
the mottled, purple
closely related;
spathe corresponding to the pure white one of the latter.
unfortunate that
is
It
won
has
it
energy and courage;
Spring
earliest
have the unpleasant odor that
flower, should suggests, but
our
this,
name
its
a place in our regard by
knows no
for the plant
rest,
its
the
fallen and withered leaf being transfixed by the rising
bud.
Having now obtained our home, and our walk
Nature
is
Far
see
The view Dogtown and beauty
all
where
and
the
of
own,
hills
for
I
appealing than that of the
and there out
of
While
off
calls his ruffian blasts."
further west to
its
will return
attire,
Winter passes
surly
to the north
we
be uninteresting.
will not
not yet in her Spring
"We
quest,
out towards
stretching
Annisquam
know little
of
no
possesses a
more
sight
here
evergreens rising
grey bouldered pastures
the
sil-
houetting themselves against the bare deciduous trees
about to respond to the regenerating touch of Spring.
The
and
both
beginning to
show
color.
see a
flat
this wall,
Beeches and
We
now
stone in the wall to the
is
school-house.
a cellar
By
—
said to
We
this
till
we
get over
path and the
be that of an old
we come
out to
take a path
by a
following this path,
Alewive Brook, and
are quite
Maples are
go along
left.
and see a path; between
wall, there
the
Tag Alder
graceful tassels of the
evidence,
in
we now
12
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
ridge
which leads
to
higher ground; here
we
find
another path, which brings us out to the same old
Rockport Road, only
farther
down;
and without
going
we may find our way to town by down Trask St., through Judy Millet's parlor,
or by
Maplewood Avenue.
further direction
If
this
walk
Spice-bush buds Plantain,
is
taken in April, Hobble-bush and
may be
found;
Wild Roses and Lady
pasture; in June, Curtis* pasture,
in
May, Robin's
Slippers in Babson's
Mountain Laurel; and
Red
Lilies
and Polygala.
in July, in
II
HEATER ROAD FOR ARBUTUS
AROUND THE
LITTLE
"What joy when Winter lingered long To seek with ever new surprise The dripping banks, whose mouldering leaves among The modest Mayflower lifts its tender eyes."
OUBTLESS above
lines
the feeling that inspired the
has found a responsive chord
in our ow^n hearts,
and accounts
for the
ardor with which, with every recurrent Spring,
we
seek the lovely Arbutus blossoms, to which
the Pilgrims gave the
The
name
of
Mayflower.
long winter has yet scarcely passed from our
remembrance, but the snow has given place to the moisture of thawing sod, and we hunt under the mouldering leaves
With what if
after
few
joy
we
for the
behold the
a long tramp,
clusters,
we
very abundant in
modest but fragrant flower.
feel
we
first
blossom; and even
are able to take
home
repaid for our exertion.
our woods, and
now
just
a
Never
probably not
so abundant as in former years, there are places on the
Chasm road and Magnolia Avenue where it yet may be found. To this latter place we will wend our way this afternoon. We take a West Gloucester bus, and get Rafe*s
— 14
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
off at
Magnolia Avenue, once called the
name from
Road.
It
territory
enclosed by the connection of
received that
West
the Magnolia and
Heater
Little
the fact, that the
road with
this
Parish roads, took a three
cornered shape, similar to an old-fashioned snovy^-plow,
which was
We
called a heater.
pass the station, and
when about
a mile at least from the station
we
of the road,
shall find the
turn in this road,
way
half
— on the
through
hand
left
side
Arbutus.
Please be careful in picking the flower, not to disturb the root, for is
it
will not
be long, unless the plant
more tenderly handled, before
become
binger of Spring, will
woods.
we
this
beautiful har-
entirely extinct in our
Searching beneath the
**
mouldering leaves'*
have culled a modest bouquet, and
an abrupt turn
up
to the
left,
Here we are
to a brook.
now we
likely
to find
Violets, Hobble-bush, Bellwort, Cassandra,
We
Gale.
the path
but
cross the
we
still it
is
are
will
back
to
being quite a crooked one;
the way, leading us up over a
Pond on the left, and bringing camp by Fernwood Lake. Here
sit
down and wait If we have
town.
will take out our
"The to
east,
passing Wallace
hill,
us out to the Gipsy
we
all
Yellow
and Sweet
brook and go toward the
now on
a path
take
following a path that leads
it
"Wild
bus that takes us
our Whittier with
volume and read
Mayflowers** in her
for the
— Mrs.
Dana
Flowers**,
and
his
poem
us,
we
called
cafls our attention
particularly to the
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN lines that
poet
15
brought courage and hope to the Quaker
in the
dark period of the Civil War.
" But warmer suns erelong shall bring
To life the frozen sod, And through dead leaves
of
Afresh the flowers of God."
hope
shall spring
III
TO SALT ISLAND FOR DUTCHMAN'S BREECHES. AN APRIL WALK " Yet not alone
By Ocean's But
all
With
^
t^
my
being grew
influence vague
and
free.
the secret of the Springtime
knew
beauty's patient growth in flower and tree."
HUS sang James Parsons, a lineal descend-
-^
ant of that Jeffrey Parsons,
home in 1685 on now Witham Street. his
what analogy
who made Road,
the Joppa
We do
Ancient Joppa appealed
to the
know
not
to the
early residents of this locality, that they should
given
it
this
name.
We know that the fishing business
was once vigorously prosecuted here, and road was once lined with fishermen*s homes also the latter
may,
road leading
reason alone it is
have
it
to
the sea.
received
over this old road
noon toward Salt Island
in
we
its
that this
—
Perhaps
name; be
it
was
for the
that as
it
shall traverse this after-
our search for Dutchman's
Breeches and Dogtooth Violets. In
taking this walk,
we
must make our time
conform to the requirements of the at
tide, for
it
is
only
dead low water that a dry crossing can be made
the Island; but, having
we
made
to
the necessary calculations,
take the Rockport bus, and proceed to
Witham
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
18
where we
Street,
and walk down the quaint
get off
old road, noting the few old houses
among
nestling
original Jeffrey
the road
to
We
Heights.
It
is
still
be seen on
we
the last house before
turns
that
off
Starknaught
to
follow this road to the shore, and
have been fortunate enough
rectly,
The
gone, but one built
may
place,
its
originally stood.
it
coming
we
is
here
though on the opposite side of the road from
left,
where
left
the trees and overgrown bush.
Parsons house
not long after to take the
still
if
to time ourselves cor-
pass over dry-shod to the island, get our
flowers without waiting long enough to be overtaken
by the
tide,
month
or in
may be
and recross
May, Columbine and
found on the
Returning,
Later
to the mainland.
also
in the
Anemones
island.
we may reach home by various routes; is the shortest, but if we our walk, we can go along the shore
by the way we came, which wish to prolong
nearly to the Pavilion, cross the sand, follow the path or
roadway over Starknaught Heights, and come out
farther
down on Witham
would be
to
walk across
and cross over
to the
Street.
Little
Still
another
Good Harbor
way
Beach,
Bass Rocks road.
Whichever way we
take, our vision
commands
a long stretch of coast-line with the broad Atlantic in full
view.
Dr.
Bartlett,
Those for
of
many
us
who remember
years Rector of St.
the
late
Mary's
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN Church, Rockport, lines
will
be pleased
to see his beautiful
quoted below. "Where
And
the rock- pinioned beach holds back the strong ocean.
the oft-changing scene entrances our eyes,
Where
the waves toss their foam, and are always in motion.
And
deep
The
soul must be
When
calls to
deep with thundrous
dead
that
can
feel
replies,
no emotion
the marvellous sea continues to speak.
Thoughts deeper than words, and not a vain notion Inspires us
towards
loftiest
19
aims to upreach."
;
IV TO FRESH WATER COVE AND RAPE'S CHASM 'Winter
Nature
past; the heart of
is
Warms
Beneath the wrecks of unresisted storms Doubtful
The
On
at
first,
more than seen
suspected
southern slopes are fringed with tender green
sheltered banks, beneath the dropping eaves
Spring's earliest nurslings spread their glowing leaves."
HIS walk
we
that
are
and so
varied, so beautiful, interest,
we
would be pleasurable
may
have taken or
combination of
take, not
one has such a
the open, and
we
feel
what a joy
Mouldered
to dust, a
will start
new
last
well to
to
be head."
from Blynman Bridge known
was sufficiently remember the
The
old
name
enterprising
parson
may seem
not
if
it
who
had been
some years before the Colonial goverrmient. it
until
suggestive, but perhaps
carried into execution the project that
as
call of
year blossoms dead
life lifts its
recently as the **Cut Bridge'*.
elegant
as has this.
most powerfully the
it is
" Beside the stream, where
We
headlands,
beaches, brooks, granite
however,
any
at
the walks
all
meadows, swamps and evergreen woods In Spring
of historic
full
season of the year; for of that
so
anticipating,
is
first
for
Strange
to us, the clergymen of that day
were
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
22
much occupied with things outside of their profession. Of his successor Mr. Emerson, Mr. Babson quaintly remarks "he was not indifferent to the secular of
affairs
he became the sole or chief owner of the
for
life,
town and died possessed
three mills of the
of a con-
siderable estate*'.
Perhaps Mr. Blynman had he stayed here longer, might also have
seems
to
laid
up "treasures on earth", but he
have had a comet-like personality.
appearing from another followers,
of
crosses
it
Suddenly
labor with a
company
he organizes a church, cuts a canal,
with a bridge, and after sweeping across the
below the horizon taking
sky, sinks
many
field of
followers that the church
support a successor
till
many
is
his train so
in
too impoverished to
Well,
years after.
at all
events he did us good service, and standing on the
spot
where
of Ipswich
Bay with
pay our respects But
and energy united the waters
his foresight
we
those of the broad Atlantic,
to his
are not quite ready to take our real
for before starting let us stop a bit longer
walk
and take
in
the delightful views that are spread out before us.
all
much
that
varied and beautiful from a single view point,
and
It is
is
we
memory.
we
not often that the eye can compass so
must not miss any of
To
the
left lies
the beach
town which once used
Summer
morning.
it.
to
Notice
— "The Beach"
of the
be gay with bathers every
how
gently
it
curves to the
;
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN headland, or
in
we
as
fort,
no longer; but
say,
though
is
it
23
a fortification
Revolutionary times earthworks were
thrown up there
and
pounders, with which
boasted
it
it
twelve
eight
of
was supposed
to protect the
where all of the business of the town was done. Further to the east, picturesque Rocky Neck is seen, making little Harbor Cove where Champlain came something more than three hundred inner harbor
We
years ago.
Then
linen.
in
would
and
of
their
Eastern Point
the outer harbor
the entrance of
single roses.
This
finishes
a picture you
travel far to equal.
To
the right a rocky beach terminating in
headland covered with oaks presents a bold coast
and swinging round to the place lines salt
their
soiled
embrace Ten Pound Island, where men found wild strawberries, goose-
its
Hutchinson's berries,
wash
to
the long shore line
stretching out to
folding
can almost see them caulking up
and going ashore
shallop
little
we
to the north
where
it
loses
and becomes a gentle
follow the canal
straight
its
a
line,
and
artificial
meandering over
tidal river
marshes against a background of pine covered
hills to
Ipswich Bay.
"How The
Bend
And
To
how
still
winds along, while tangled grasses
the swaying tide as on
seems to wander
Reflecting on
The
the morning, and
silent in
river
its
at
its
it
passes
own
bosom, rock and
sweet will hill.
lingering masses over sand hills
open sea."
haze
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
24
We
will
two
now and
go on
we
prosaic highway
instead of taking the
Park beneath the
will cross the
This
lines of beautiful elms.
Samuel Whittemore the
Grammar School
Harbor and a prominent
Subsequently
Benjamin K.
erty of Mr.
whose
bought
heirs the city
became the prop-
it
Hough who
about the middle of the
trees
farm,
teacher of a permanent
first
the
at
citizen of his time.
was owned by
tract of land
once a part of the Whittemore
it
set out the
1898
in
elm
century and from
last
for a public
park.
Meandering along headland on the of the Civil
left
War
period can
Moon Beach that Lane throwing over
this pretty road,
where remains still
pass the
be seen; and Half
the artist used to love to paint,
that lovely roseate
it
we
of the earthworks
hue
that
was
so
peculiar to him.
Now we which
we
come
to
the
further
headland from
get the most spacious view of the harbor
and the open sea beyond; and then crossing over Fishermen's Field where the bronze tablet story of those fourteen 1
623-4, thus laying the
structure
men who wintered first
tells
the
here in
foundation stones of that
which afterward became the Commonwealth
of Massachusetts,
we come
Here our road
out on the highway.
leads along the shore, and
we
come
to a place called steep bank, rightly so called
for
side leads
its
down
to the
water almost perpendic-
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN August
In
ularly.
whose
gerardia,
it
covered with the
is
stalks
sometimes
tall
25
yellow
or seven feet
six
high, thrust their loveliness into mid-air for the pleasure of the passer-by.
now Hammond
Passing the Hovey,
come
Sawyer's Hill though the road
to
and the
declivity
At
years ago.
much added altered,
to,
much
steep than
less
the foot of
but the original homestead not
Summer Mr. Samuel for his native city
Place,
by
Here
who
E. Sawyer
we
much wider it was some
Sawyer house
the
lies
it
Mr. Sawyer's death.
since
is
much
lived
in
attested his love
Sawyer Free Library
giving us the
and bestowing on us many other wise benefactions. Just
beyond where the road
where a
stone wharf,
An
old grass
the
first
grown road
dwellers of the
up
see an old
into the marsh.
down
leads
to
hamlet
little
we
turns
tidal inlet runs
it,
and here
built their tiny
houses and put out to sea in their primitive fishing
This perhaps was two or more centuries ago,
craft.
and as
we
straggle along the
road
we
see an
old
chimney or a gambrel roof that harks back also to an early period.
Soon
to
Avenue*', and
the
left
we
turn
we down
cannot say Master Moore's as
we
called.
used to be, for
till
Master Moore
roof house
on the
see
a
"Hesperus
this road, sorry that
lane,
we
and be understood,
recent years
lived in the
right as
sign,
it
little
was always
so
white gambrel
had a generation
of
Moores
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
26
His
before him.
and
built the
He
century.
town
in
1
William Moore,
settled here
taught one of the public schools in the
At
757.
paid us a
father,
house about the middle of the eighteenth
the time however,
he was out
visit
in
when Lindsay
a boat with his son
Joseph, and both were taken on board the man-of-war
had a pleasant habit
as they
was a boy home, but
On
of doing in
1775.
Joseph
and was put ashore near was never more heard from.
of twelve
his father
his
manhood Joseph followed his father's profession of teaching and became a very famous instructor of navigation. From all over the town came the flower of old Gloucester families, arriving
at
between voyages,
them
to
do business on the
He
great waters.
published a text book on navigation; one
which
From now on
we
knows
at least the writer
pathway. see
Just
be
a cottage always
of
after this,
bushes
we
it
copy
of
in existence.
known
dog tooth
shelter
as
violets.
but searching
now, which were once
side of the street
the
May we may
shall find places,
and which give
also
in their season, flowers line our
house, and in April and
meadow back
to
below on the other
houses
enabled
to learn the science that
Dilloway
find in the
There
among more than
nothing
cellars of old settlers*
to
are
the gay
no
the barberry holes
houses
columbine and
yellow celandine.
In late autumn, the pink petals of
Herb Robert and
the straw colored flowers of the
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN witch-hazel, give us sleep of cellars
Winter
down
a
last
in
of
bit
color before the
way
Across the
begins.
27
from these
a boggy spot grow huge stalks of
thoroughwort, and vines of the ground nut sprawling over everything with delicious freedom.
Our road ful of time,
interesting
is
and
we walk on unmind-
sometimes catching a glimpse of the ocean
through the branches of the oaks and pine and always
with the ceaseless noise of
its
After a quarter of a mile or
movement
so,
we
in our ears.
see a red granite
island, so near the shore that in a
low course
may be reached by wading. Woe and no one knows why it
This
it
received
unless like Thacher*s, because of
We
occurring there. sailed
know
that a
this
name,
an awful tragedy
Richard Norman
on a voyage from which he never returned.
Nothing but sea golden rod and a weird sedge grow upon
it,
discouragement of
With
and
living
we
with such
occurring here,
we walk
to a red brook,
we
find a
and many
gray
slight
chance of
the splash of the waters beating against
sides keeping us constantly in
violets blue
little
fancy they must feel the
by human hands.
ever being picked
here
of tides
Norman's
is
and
mind
of
on quite a piece
after
its
shipwrecks till
we come And
that a white one.
wealth of flowers, cowslips,
clintonia,
and yellow, bunchberry, wild geranium, others;
perhaps too, on the
hills
on the
— ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
28
right
we
grows
have found the ever charming arbutus,
in the "
I
woods about
for
it
here:
wandered lonely where the pine
trees
made
Against the bitter East their barricade. And guided by its sweet Perfume, I found within a narrow dell The trailing Spring flower tinted Hke a shell Amid dry leaves and mosses at my feet."
After passing the white brook the rough road turns abruptly to the
the
Chasm
left
and a
sign
lies in this direction.
board
tells
us that
A gently rising foot
path of perhaps a quarter of a mile over low shrubs
and mountain cranberry, leads us sharp precipice, and here
come
we
Rafe*s Crack or
to see,
to the
brow
have what
Chasm
as
we it
of a
have
is
now
called.
This
fissure
greatest width,
but looking feet,
one
the sea.
is
is
and
down
not a score of feet across
at its
into
its
narrowest can be jumped,
depths from a height of sixty
overpowered by the sublime majesty
On
of
a pleasant day, the rumbling and the
gurgling of the
waves
as they find their
way
to the
narrow angle of the upper end, and dash against sides in their retreat,
storm, the sight must control**
its
is
indeed impressive, but
its
in
a
be well nigh unbearable. "Man's
indeed "stops with the
sea'*.
Standing on the higher or eastern edge of the
Chasm we have
a view of the open ocean close at
hand, and of the spires of Gloucester "Touched by
A
in the distance
a light that hath no r>ame glory never sung."
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN It is
time to be thinking of the return home.
have seen enough; take the bus on our
by the
let
way
us walk into
back.
light of the setting
seen and
felt
seems
now
God's
We shall be travelling
sun and
is
We
Magnolia and
all
that
we have
only a beautiful dream,
"But beauty seen
29
never
lost
colors are all fast."
V OVER FOX HILL FOR RHODORA " Rhodora
!
if
This charm
the Sages ask thee
is
Tell them, dear, that
Then Beauty
HESE
is its
eyes were
if
own
excuse
May, and in
And
glory.
its
we
shall
made
for seeing.
being."
it
the
is
about the middle of purplish-pink
brilliant,
immortaHzed by him, must now
flower,
flower
for
much-quoted words from Emerson
remind us that
be
why
wasted on the earth and sky,
it
not only the beauty of the
is
and
see
feel this afternoon,
but the
melancholy beauty that clings to old neglected roads,
once replete with
life,
but
now
mostly traversed by
lovers of Nature. It is
true
we
start
out on a thoroughfare teeming
with modern industries, but ourselves
ourselves
when
the home, with
unwilling
after a while,
its little
the mill, and the church, completed the
soil,
Wass
summer of
Square,
visitor
we
which
will say
is
for
the
entire length to
its
We
will start
benefit
of
the
situated at the junction
Maplewood Ave. and Prospect
of Swift's store-house. its
shall find
garden wrested from an
circle of the early settlers' existence.
from
we
away from the noisy highway picturing to the ways and customs of primitive days,
Street, to the right
We follow this avenue through junction
with Poplar Street.
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
32
Not many land,
our
years ago, this whole district
and Gloucester Ave., which
right,
was
we
was pasture
have passed on
the old road to Rockport, over
for nearly fifty years, the settlers of that locality their
way
to the
I
which
wended
Parish church on the Green.
st
Respectable tradition asserts that the
first
dry-
goods shop of the town was located on the spot opposite the beginning of this old road, where in the writer's it
remembrance
(all
beyond being pasture land)
turned a corner in joining the street or road just
This seems
mentioned. than at for a
first
when one remembers
thought,
number
improbable on
less
reflection, that,
while
of years after our settlement, all the finer
material for wearing apparel and house furnishing
brought over
in ships to the well-to-do, as
whose wants were mostly supplied by home to
add a
shawl or a yard or two of
some
sailor's
a shop of
this
a private
were many not so well placed,
importation, there
These were glad
was
of India cotton
adventure kind
—
products.
kerchief, ribbon,
to their
may have
—
cheap
the outcome
home
spun; and
existed there to catch
the trade of connecting roads.
We
turn the corner into Poplar Street, and from
this point on,
we
shall travel
over some of the oldest
Walking toward the west, we come Street, once prettily called Fox Hill, and
roads in town. to
Cherry
turn in this road; but while standing
we
will take
a look about us.
on
this corner,
In the earliest years of
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN our settlement,
this
33
At
was a much-traveled road.
the
extreme west on the Green, lay the meeting-house of the
on the the
Organized church;
first
right of the
—a
town
and
was
it
Fox
around the corner,
just
Hill road,
grist-mill
first,
was
the
and then a
mill of
first
fulling-mill
Some-
Annisquam.
also the only road to
—
where on the road between here and Washington Parson
lived
Street,
Emerson
Blynman— and
succeeded Mr.
—
the
was
pied by Mr. Albert Procter, which
Post
named, was
is
Thomas Allen
occu-
on the
the birthplace the
Alewives
into the
Fox
Hill road,
apparent, but
growth
for
and
there,
are
we
in
stop
former
came up here
in large quantities
spawn, and look still
G. A. R.
original site of the
Alewife Brook, so called because
at the
are
built
who
now
house.
Having turned
years,
whom
lamented Col. Allen, for
of the
minister
the house
to
evidences of the old mill; they a
few years
now
ago were quite
concealed beneath a thick
of bush.
We
climb the
roadway two old poplar and a winding path
we walk up
noting as
hill,
trees, that
at the
stand as sentinels,
that led to
left
the
Tammy
Younger*s house, which
was
still
memory
The
writer remembers a
of
some
living.
standing in the
well-defined chimney standing stark against the sky;
but now, not even the cellar
Tammy
died, the house,
is
discernible.
and what
little
there
After
was
in
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
34
it,
was
for not
left to
decay by the slow process
of Nature,
even the children dared to invade the precincts.
Tammy's
reputation as a witch having projected
itself
had
into a considerable space of time after she
left
these earthly scenes.
We
take up our walk again, and not far from
Tammy's house on
the
left,
we
see an old cellar; but
evidences of early inhabitants are
and the
The new
road of a few years
delightful grass-grown
ago has given place
to a
disappearing,
fast
more frequented thoroughfare.
direction of the road has not been changed, but
houses have been
built,
and much
the old
of
charm has gone.
We
go on, passing Reynard Street on the
which leads out grist-mill,
Washington
to
which was
in operation
since
1652
—
and the old
within a compara-
till
There has been a
tively short time ago.
spot
Street
first
left,
a saw-mill,
and
mill in
on
this
1678 a
may be interesting to those of the Catholic faith to know that in a house, owned and lived in by John Dooly, now torn down, but grist-mill
was
erected.
It
—
just
around the corner on Reynard Street
celebrated for the
We right,
lies
of
time in our
— mass was
city.
soon come to the Gravel Hill road on the
which we
which view
first
pass,
and walk along
to the east;
the
hills,
and here
dotted
over
skirting
we
with
Dogtown,
have a better boulders
and
:
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN The
patches of Bayberry.
we know
before
"
we
it,
Our
On
on
attention.
its
lives are like the
It is
to the height of
a
and
shadows
Rhodora on our
right so
stems as to attract immediate
member
of the
one or two
the Arbutus that
casting shadows,
hills that lie."
to the
leafless
is
are repeating Bickerstith*s lines
sunny
Soon we come brilliant
sun
35
trails
feet;
Heath
family, rising
quite different from
along the ground.
Having
we may walk straight ahead to Gee Avenue, and follow Gee Avenue to Washington Street or we can cross the pasture, and come out on the Pilgrim Hill road, or Holly Street, as it is now procured our flowers,
;
called,
Street
and proceed
The
Pilgrim
to
Goose Cove, or Dennison
Hill
delightful stretch of country, finish to
an afternoon's walk.
road leads over a very
and makes a
satisfactory
VI TO THE WHALE'S JAW BY GEE AVENUE '
There loved and blessed
my
spirit
broods
O'er barren commons dear to me."
|EPHAPS
no spot on Cape
Ann
dearer
is
to those of us familiar with the old roads
and by-paths than "those wild wastes
of
uplands" lying to the east of Mill River,
and back
We
have
of the traveled all
felt
discover wherein
its it
highway, known as Dogtown.
charm, and
lies.
The
it
is
not
difficult
to
grey boulders, seamed
and worn by time, relieved only by scanty herbage, tell
the story of the Glacial
Period,
when
world was being made ready for habitation old dismantled cellars, with the pathetic of reclaimed land beside them,
joys
and sorrows
of
and the
;
little
speak of the humble
all
sides afford a
come here and make
we
their early
stop to think, there
place, land could is
now
a
be had
barren
were many reasons In the
for little or nothing,
waste,
did
homes?
contributive to the settlement of this locality.
what
How
why
did this tract look to the early settlers and
first
patches
subject for the exercise of imagination.
If
old
an extinct population.
Barrenness and desolateness on fruitful
they
this
was
at
that
and time
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
38
undoubtedly covered
with
a
The
growth.
forest
frequency of the boulder prevented a thick growth,
was enough timber probably
to build such
rude dwellings as they had, and furnish
sufficient fuel,
but there
which they could have
for the cutting;
game
small
abounded, and they were allowed by law to pasture
few domestic animals on the cleared
their
not unlikely too, that these simple-minded
is
It
places.
folk experienced, instinctively, a sense of protectiveness, that
from
given
primitive
to
typified strength
earliest
eyes unto the
Cometh
my
man;
hills",
So
it
call
always,
whence
in giving
speak of the "everlasting
upon the
fall
too,
up mine
lift
says the Psalmist, **from
Jesus, foretelling the
people shall
have "I will
Both Jacob and Moses,
their parting blessing,
and
they
and endurance,
help".
always
times, the hills Iiave
hills",
of Jerusalem, says "the
hills to
cover them".
seems, then, within the bounds of a reason-
able imagination, to say that both for economic and
class of people,
home chosen by a whose occupation was intermittent,
and whose
was
protective reasons, this
living
here previous to
1
74
was
precarious. 1 ,
as
is
and Mr. Babson says
date;
after the
the
People were
shown by a map in his
living
of that
history, that just
Revolutionary War, there were about forty
houses scattered along the sides of the old roads.
After
men
this period, the
population declined,
many
of the
having perished, either in the land or naval forces,
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN engaged
and the younger generation
war;
the
in
39
new
having built homes for themselves nearer the
highway, which had gradually come into existence, the old houses
who
came
to
be inhabited by widows only, the products of
got an insufficient support from
a few domestic animals, eked out by the selling of
and herbs
berries
Harbor, and the willing dole
at the
of the charitable.
number
Doubtless, a disproportionate
were kept pitiably
company, and
to afford
their
known
remember hearing
never had white
flour
the Parish, and had them still
to the present time.
childhood that they
is
down
to a
merchant
in
filled.
living
wretched condition, as writer's possession.
it
but once a year, at Thanksgiving,
they brought their pans
Some were
to
my
in
this
under the sobriquet of
Dogtown, which name has clung
when
dogs
meagre possessions from marauders, and
led to the locality being
I
to
of
protect
there
attested
Mention
is
1832,
in
by a
made
in
letter in
a
the
in this letter of
up and taking them clothes from the "Reading Society'*, followed by reflections on their
two
ladies going
unfortunate moral and physical condition.
Mr. Babson brings poetically
known
and charitably
verse " But
No No But
his
account of
to a close,
this
setdement
by quoting the
well-
from Goldsmith's "Deserted Village". now
the sounds of population
cheerful
murmurs
fail
fluctuate in the gale;
busy steps the grass -grown footway tread, all the blooming flush of life is fled."
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
40
shall
This
is
find
only the
hardly a flower-walk
common
;
we
in the Spring,
such as
hillside flowers,
the Violet, Saxifrage, Bluet, Cassandra, and Sweet-
Rose; but nothing
briar
the Bayberry with
its
Autumn,
In the
distinctive.
sweet fragrance
will
be our chief
reward."^
We ready
this introduction to the locality,
One
to set out.
the Spring or
should go to
Autumn, and
as
it is
Cape, the approaches
of the
we
walk
however, going to view the Whale*s
are,
Jaw, and with
have planned
May, when we
time in
and see
of Nature,
We take the Street, or
Cherry
road
Lemuel
We
old Castle.
it
beauty of
left
we
which has been remodeled on
straight
Morgan Stanwood
Proceeding on our way,
which
we
referred to as the this road, left,
cross
of
passing
and soon on
shall see a large boulder, beside
the cellar of
is
Stanwood
either of these streets
the road to the Rifle-Range on the the
The
unfolding.
its
off either at
which was once
keep
are many.
and continuing on the same
Friend's,
in recent years, but
either in
situated in the heart
today takes place some-
and get
Street,
are
shall witness the resurrection
in all the
bus,
to
Gee Avenue, walk up
crossing to
it
for
Dogtown
we
which
is
Mr. Rich's poem.
we come
to a slough,
on stepping-stones, and beyond
a pair of bars which brings us out to the
this,
Common,
so called because the boundaries to the lots have long *
Later
in
June and July some of the orchids are found
in the
swamps near
Vivian's.
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN become
since
many
an immense rock, called Peter's Pulpit, where
to
Now
seen.
the Whale's
hill,
from
this point, this
keep, turns to the
distance,
we
leave
it,
around which there
We
stones.
we
rented, as so
go through the bars and follow a grassy
from a near-by
still
is
cow-rights.
We road
and the land
indefinable,
41
and
left,
Jaw can be
same road, which we
after following
and cross the pasture a
is
clearly
it
to a
a short
swamp,
good path with stepping-
go around the
swamp and
from there,
take a path directly to the Whale's Jaw. Just before arriving at our destination,
marked with a
see on our right a stone
we
cross,
shall
once
believed to mark the place of concealment of Capt.
Kidd's treasure. but
now
To east,
to
lies
This rock once stood above ground,
a couple of feet below the surface.
return,
and you
walk a short distance
will find a
good path
you come
till
brook,
climb a
to the
right.
goes to the
hill,
to
left
to
down
the
pair of bars, cross the
and follow a path
This leads
left,
a
North-
that leads directly
Rockport; or take a path to the
pasture,
to the
a
that
leads
broader path which
and comes out on Dennison Street
VII
THE WOODS FROM ANNISQUAM TO LANESVILLE— A TREE WALK
IN
"
How
sweet
it
is
The wayward
when Mother Fancy
rocks
brain to saunter through a
wood."
|HIS walk may be taken with pleasure and almost any season of the year;
profit at
but
would
it
be taken
better
when Nature on
Spring,
awakening, and the trees are coming into but scant historical
we
meet with, unless as are
common
interest,
to
much
find
It
we
is
has
shall
except the Pyrola, are only such
most woods; but
lovely trees, both deciduous shall
leaf.
and the flowers
the
in
sides
all
pleasure in
we
shall see
many
and evergreen; and
making them a
we
special
object of interest.
We
will start at
Revere
Street, nearly opposite
Annisquam church, which
the
Porridge
sand
Hill, so called
We
in this locality.
us that this road
of the deposit of
see a couple of old houses,
dating from the early part of the tells
over Sand
takes us
on account
1
8th Century, which
was probably made
of the setting off of the
3rd Parish, as
at the time
farther
connects with the road leading to the Sandy
on
it
Bay
settlement. It
the
was more convenient
town
to attend
this
for
people in that part of
church than the one on the
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
44
Green; so
we may
suppose they embraced the oppor-
We
tunity of doing so at an early date.
road past the Dennison house, which
two
old landmarks, going through
take the road to the
This ago; but
we
find
it
one
of the
pairs of bars,
and
was burnt over a few years
now
Birches, a
covered with young Oaks,
Maple here and
there,
and
Trees have always formed an
interesting
we
might note
subject for study, and, as
some
also
is
leading into the woods.
tract of land
Beeches and Pines.
left
follow this
of the
The Oak,
more
for
we
go along,
example, of which
this afternoon, is
the legend that
them.
distinctive facts concerning
we
many
shall see
a tree of great antiquity; and while it
was
the
first
tree created
we do
can hardly be supported,
find
it
by God,
mentioned
very often in the Bible. It
tree
seems both then, and
much
venerated, for
we
later, to
have been a
read that Joshua set the
Stone of the Covenant under an oak; and Isaiah speaks of taking an oak to
make
a
God
of.
It
was
dedicated to Jupiter by the Romans, and spoken of
by
Virgil as "Jove's
awful sovereignty". size,
and a round
own
slice of
There are
woods
in
In England, this tree attains great table,
claiming to have been
a single
tree that holds the
still
shown
in
Winchester,
King Arthur's, was made from
oak cut from an enormous bole. several varieties of
Cape, the White
Oak
oak found on the
being the most easily dis-
;
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN by the rounded lobes
tinguished
sweetness of
its
acorns.
circulation
renewed
is
where
desirable
and the
dried leaves persist
Of
till
the oaks,
all
for building purposes, especially
wet and dry
has an alternate
it
Red and
exposure.
its
in the Spring.
most durable
this is the
leaves,
its
has a white bark with
It
dark spots, and a few of
of
45
Black Oaks have sharp pointed
lobes, bitter acorns, and, while easily distinguished from
the white, are not so easily distinguished from each other.
Growing with
Modern
Beeches.
the Oaks,
we
see a great
them
forestry plants
young Beeches drip a great deal protect the stems of sions.
height. is
most
Oak,
till
many
together, as
of moisture,
and
they attain timber dimen-
The Beech is a noble tree, and reaches to great The opening of the Beech bud in the Spring interesting
—
then scales of filmy
begin to unfold
;
at
first,
tissue, first,
grey and
"Then each bond broken and All
fluted
Then They
And
We
brown
the tough
sheath,
and then the embryo leaves
and pointed and
silver
burst at
and
last.
daintily curled
world and gyve.
green, just the loveliest green in the fling to
the breezes each fetter
laugh for the pleasure of being alive."
get our word,
book from "buck'*
or Beech,
thin plates of the bark having furnished the earliest
bindings for volumes; and tradition the letters of the
first
book printed
tells us, also,
in
that
English were
fashioned from the bark of this tree.
With
Oaks and Beeches, are many young always come up on newly burnt over
the
Birches, that
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
46
ground, and an occasional Maple.
walk it is
its
in April,
we
we
If
Maple
shall see the
take our
in flower, for
the earliest tree to announce the return of Spring,
blossoms unfolding more than a fortnight before
leaves.
It is
Coleridge
think
I
Lowell
exquisite verse that
who
has given us
its
this
the most beautiful
calls
landscape in words. "Beneath yon birch with silver bark, And boughs so pendulous and fair, The brook falls, scattered by the rock And all is mossy there."
we come
Just before
we
road,
enough into
to the
end
of this
wood
encounter an immense boulder, but low
for us to
walk over, and then
we come
out
an open country, where there are one or two
houses.
If
we
wish,
we
down
can turn
here and find
a road leading back to Revere Street; but those of us not faint-hearted, keep right on the beaten track
which leads
into the old
follow this road
from the it
some
we
if
station in
distance,
wish, and
Rockport; but
we
soon becomes a road,
come if,
will lead us
may
out not far
after following
take a path to the it
We
Rockport road.
left
which
over an exceed-
ingly pretty stretch of country.
Here we where a while
see
more
trees,
and come
cultivation of fruit trees
we do
not
come across any White and
see small ones, both
be distinguished by the number in
a sheath.
A
White Pine
is
to a place
in progress,
full-grown Pines, Pitch,
which
and
we
are to
of leaves or needles is
feathery,
has
five
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
47
leaves in a sheath; the Pitch only three; while the
The
sometimes called Norway, has only two. I
think,
the
is
Then, while
not indigenous to the Cape.
White Pine has
a straight
tall
Red, latter,
trunk with lateral
branches, the Pitch Pine has a more gnarled appear-
grow
ance, and does not to a
very pretty Pitch Pine
on
later
In following this road, sight of houses,
we come
to a ledge in
into
Pigeon
left,
which
to the
Here we
terminates at a quarry railroad track.
Pme, before mentioned,
see the pretty Pitch
hands have spared
it.
We
come
our walk.
in
which would bring us out
Cove; but again we take a road finally
We
such height.
to
ruthless
if
follow the track along,
work our way round amongst some work-sheds, pass an enclosure with sheep pasturing
come
in
it;
and
out near the Lanesville church.
We
the Dennison house a
left
little
more than
two hours ago, and we see the bus waiting the foot of the
We
finally
hill,
so
we
quicken our steps to take
have had a beautiful walk, and
feel better for
" Nature never did betray
The
heart that loved her
Through
all
;
'tis
her privilege
the years of this our
life,
to lead
From joy to joy: for she can so inform The mind that is w^ithin us, so impress With quietness and beauty, and so feed With lofty thoughts, that neither evil tongues, Rash judgments, nor
the sneers of selfish men.
Nor The
no kindness
greetings, w^here
dreary intercourse of daily
is,
nor
all
life.
Shall e'er prevail against us, or disturb
Our
cheerful faith that
Is full
of blessings."
for us at
all
which we behold
it.
it.
VIII
TO THE SOUTHERN WOODS FOR LAUREL "And
what
Then,
if
is
so rare as a
come
ever,
Then Heaven
And
over
jERE so
it
the earth
tries
softly
day
in
her
warm
if
it
let
us
go
find
America, and It is
is
tune
in
Laurel.
for
it
in flower.
found
in
While
the
an evergreen, and
is
always beautiful for
we
be
ear lays."
a day such as the poet describes,
is
Mountain Laurel June that
June?
perfect days;
its
It is
foliage,
abundance on our
is
it
native to
in
North
hillsides.
not the Laurel of the Ancients, symbol of victory,
though there
is
some resemblance
shrub, supposed to
classic
brought to
this
in the leaves.
be Laurus
Nobilis,
(The was
country by the colonists, but did not
thrive in our soil.)
The correct name of our shrub is Kalmia, so named in honor of the Swedish Botanist, Kalm, who was sent to this country in 748 by his government to make investigations in Natural History. It has been transplanted in England, where it is very much thought I
of,
of
and
flowering in one of the celebrated gardens
its
London,
We Pond
is
advertised in the daily papers every year.
take the Rockport bus, and get out at
Cape
road, and follow this road round to the back side
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
50
Walking toward the
of the ice-houses.
a
and follow a path a
little hill
we
and
we
after passing these trees,
We
laurel.
east,
to the
we
left.
go up
Now
where there are some spruce
turn to the right,
trees,
little
get over the wall,
and here
begin to find
we
see a road
that leads to the laurel fields.
Not long ago
there appeared in one of our daily
papers an appeal to the public to spare substituting it
some other green
would become
extinct
picked so carelessly as
if
has been in recent years.
It
out.
if
broken All
off
this,
leaving always
Now,
it
insects for fertilization,
too close to the ground, the plant dies
guardians
remember
by
propagated by seed,
is
which depend on bees or other and
this plant,
for large decorations, as
our
of
and pick
some
off
native
flowers
should
only the top branches,
of the flowers to form
new
plants.
having gathered our flowers,
"We in the warm shade and feel right well. How the sap creeps up and the blossoms swell." sit
and being rejuvenated, following the
highway
in
The still
we
take up our walk again,
same road, which brings us out
to the
Rockport. softened rays of a late afternoon sun are
we
shining on our path, as
homeward,
gilding every fern
of a bright
tomorrow.
and
turn our footsteps
leaf
with the promise
Some of us perhaps were not singing "praises with when we made the oblation of the morning's
gladness"
;
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN homely
task,
but
now we have
51
received a touch of
nature.
The
stronger
and the cob-webs have have been cleared
step
is
quicker,
the
heart-beats
from the brain.
"Who
knows whither
In the unscarred
the clouds have fled?
heaven they leave no wake;
And
the eyes forget the tears they have shed
The
heart forgets
its
sorrow and ache."
are
—
IX
ALONG THE ROAD FROM MEETING-HOUSE GREEN TO WHEELER'S POINT "The happy
When
season comes apace,
generous nature doth
Those who would view her
invite
smiling face,
Where best her charms unveil to Hght, The care worn, pent up city wight. The student weary of his books. The scribes who endless themes indite,
And such as grope through legal crooks To seek her cool refreshing nooks."
HESE
lines are
taken from the
"Summer whose
Hegira'* of the late Judge Davis
benignant presence It
where
we
many
years
families
shall
knows
know
this afternoon,
entirely inhabited
their descendants,
sheltered a large
many of
us remember.
particularly suggestive of the place
walk
was
it
and
is
summer
because, while for
by a few
original
has in recent years
it
colony.
Almost everyone few
the Wheeler's Point road, but perhaps that
originally
it
is
was a
part extending
The
one of our oldest thoroughfares, and continuation of
reason for
were made here very John Coit had
Washington
beyond today being this
Street, the
much later date.
was because
grants of land
early in our settlement.
his residence
Pearce had a grant
of a
In
on the extreme end.
of land here in
1
65
1
1
647
John
and gave a
54
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
house
lot to his
The Stanwoods,
son in ]680.
or more of them, were also here about
At
later.
first
was
it
The was
Pearce's Point, then
called
Gee
Point.
property changed hands
many
Stanwood*s Point, and
I
think
times
purchased by Finson Wheeler
finally
and has been known by
present
its
four
time and
this
name
till
it
1833
in
ever since.
In the early records the entire tract appears under the
name
of
"Neck
which
also
It
was
settled
seems strange
localities
Lots**,
and the point
about the same time.
at
first
thought that these remote
earliest
visitors
our shores; but
to
must be remembered that a greater part
was covered by a were
built later, our first thoroughfares
settlements
could
communication with those
On start at
this
town
I
put
As
is
we
think
were the water-
church, the
so once a site
town
in
1643, the
themselves
into
might appropriately it
is
here that the
well known, in those days the
existed for the Church,
Town,
Cape
of our
at the harbor.
Meeting-house Green, for
town began. the
walk
easily
it
and while roads
thick forest growth,
ways, and the "Cut** having been made river
of land
Point, Planters Neck,
should have been chosen as places of habi-
by the
tation
House
of
now Annisquam
right across,
naturally
and not the Church
was
established
grew around
for
it.
for
the
Four
successive churches were built on this locality, the last
one not being taken
down
till
1840, so
it
is
easily
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
who
seen that by recalling the people this
55
once lived on
road, especially the old retired sea captains, our
walk
be uninteresting.
will not
Taking a look behind before we
what
is
was
now known
for
see
which
as the Ellery house, but
about 1704
built
we
start,
Parson White, and
right
opposite the gambrel roof house built for Joseph Allen
son about 1740.
came
to live in
it
died thirty years
continued of
them
till
One in
806 making
1
s
of the Russia Sea Captains
later.
his
it
home
till
he
His sea voyages were not
the time of his death; he retired as most
and brought up
did,
his family
on the farm,
but old sea chests and an immense hide covered trunk are
still
remembrance
in the attic to call to
his sea-
faring days.
Now we
walk along, and
a large white house which
see
removal from a lower its
just
level,
by
of
we
us
additions
and
have somewhat obscured
age, but the large square
tells
ahead
chimney
in the
middle
the story; another one of the Russia ship masters
lived here.
I
am
not sure
after his marriage in
house
in
1
lived in a
if
he made any voyages
786, at any rate he
I
792 on land
built this
given him by his father
house of the Ellery type
just
(who
above,) and
reared a large family of sons and daughters.
The
writer has often heard
with $21,000, which
it
said that
he
retired
at that time seemed so large a
fortune he did not see
how he
could ever spend
it,
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
56
but an ever increasing family
fancy must soon have
I
some dying
divested him of that idea, for besides infancy, eleven children
Four
hood.
to
ship masters
and were well known
The
in the principal ports of the world.
would not be so
this family
were all
it
not that
over town
Whole them
in
manhood and woman-
of the sons follow^ed in the footsteps of
became
their father,
grew
pictures a type that
it
details of
particularly entered into
was met with
about three-quarters of a century.
for
families followed the
sea, fathers,
and
each boy as he stowed away
their sons;
after
his sea-
chest in the forecastle looking forward to the time
when he
should be master of a ship and walk the
This called
quarterdeck.
ship, but a capacity to deal
known today, and
it
for not only
good seaman-
with situations such as
was found
Going on we pass three modern houses ful
countenance
come
to
if
not of
not
serious attitude,
of cheer-
and then
one which seems to look rebukingly
product of the present generation.
and solemn demeanor shows
is
right here in Gloucester.
it
Its straight
to
at the
uprights
have outlived
its
contemporaries, and to be amongst the moderns but not of them.
chimney,
its
dows which its
dignified
for
which
In spite of the loss of
wide the
front
hand
of
its
big middle
door and small paned win-
improvement has not spared,
frame and high-bred manner are
let
us
be thankful, and
also that
it
left,
rests
comfortably on the ground just as Parson Rogers
— ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN placed
when he came
it
57
minister to the people
to
of this Parish.
The
pastorate of
good man covered the
this
period of the Revolutionary w^ere
many, not
but he
who
children
left
War; and
his anxieties
enjoy the blessings of peace;
living to
lived to identify themselves
One
with the Gloucester of a happier period.
of his
daughters by her marriage to William Babson became
John was a noted
the grandmother of our historian.
school teacher for forty years and five,
and William taught school
under the Poles the in
I
think
Custom House.
in
town
a
little
— and was
clerk for thirty-
schoolhouse
employed
also
His schoolmaster's desk
is
at
still
existence and the writer has seen a water color
portrait of
him
as a
young man,
his hair cut short
and
powdered, wearing a bright blue coat; but his best portrait
is
preserved in the side-splitting stories told
of him, for he had a jovial disposition and did not
regard things
Two
in the serious
of his sons
manner
daughter was the mother of our
Now we and then
to
be seen by
come
its
modern houses
present location as
Yes, the big chimney
at the fine front
It
anniversary orator.
may
perched up appearance and underpinning
of recent date.
they used to
last
to three or four
one moved to
its
of the older brother.
were famous ship-masters and his
door with the
make
originally stood
pretty
is
gone but look
pilasters at the sides,
doorways
on the Pearce farm
in
those days.
just
above and
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
58
one can but wonder
do not
large families
these old houses that sheltered
if
feel forlorn, transplanted to other
surroundings amongst people
who knew them
not, in
days.
earlier
But
we
must not forget our flowers
;
us cross
let
over to the other side and getting through the bars
climb the rocky find
most
slopes.
there,
If
our walk be in
common
of the
as
also
we
at
any time the flowering bushes, the lichens
which
look
barren
down
highway with
The
I
may have been
ants in town,
it
we
have come
which
lies
am
one
not sure he
a military
title.
who
to the
was a
below
still
after his seafaring
many
shipmaster;
Leaving no descend-
end
and
of our elevation,
us.
we
we
At
first
the walk
is
not
soon reach a pretty country
road and come to a large barn which
also for
title
the side and get on to our road
especially attractive, but
a farm where
bore the
along on the ridge of Poles* Rocks,
down
just
of
has passed into other hands.
By walking must clamber
to the
farm bordering on the
old apple orchard, was, in the writer's
its
of Captain, but
very beautiful
and over across
in the valley
Dogtown.
hills of
The
of nature.
this elevation affords is
remembrance, the property
it
shall
wild floweis growing on the
and mosses give us a pleasing sense view
May we
have also found the gay wild columbine
I
and
hill.
is
in the rear of
another old shipmaster settled
days were over
to
till
the
years, to run the mill that
down
soil,
we
and
see in
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
He
retirement on the bridge.
had
59
and
several sons
daughters, one of the latter marrying a Calcutta captain
who made
his
of the captain
on a three
home with them. first
years*
have heard
1
spoken of that
it
said
once he was away
voyage and during
all
that time never
once heard from home.
Now we
pass on the right the
little
Wesleyan
War
cemetery where several victims of the Civil buried; for this
generously of her young men, and further on to
Riverview and Thurston's Point with
colonies.
House
we come
their
summer
Harebells used to grow around a bowlder
at the latter place but they are
We
are
Lots**
now
extinct.
now really on the end of the "Neck of and we wend our way along the pleasant
road bordered by wild rose bushes and cherry
On
the right
lies
perched upon the flats,
farm.
hill
and on the
unprofitable wastes of sand tract of land, the
the sand dunes of Coffins
but unsuccessful
and contrary
was once a
he lived the
one of the principal men
down
the near-by clam
thickly
farm of Peter Coffin.
his slaves
various capacities.
cut
left
hardly believable but in place of these
is
rounded by
trees.
Mill river with the village church
Annisquam River, and It
lie
section of the town gave to the army
His
life
wooded
Here
sur-
of a gentleman,
of the town, serving
it
in
eldest son inherited the farm,
in business
he came back here to
live
to the express admonitions of his father,
the trees, living on the sale of the timber as
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
60
long as in
it
it is
Coming It
living
the trees gone the sand swept
remembers
it
as being other than
now.
house similar burnt
who
With
lasted.
and no one
to the foot of
down
lived in
the
we
hill
miss an old
Wheeler house.
in architecture to the old
about a dozen years ago, but the people it
and who played
their part in
life
honestly and well, are worth remembering, and so too are the old fashioned roses that
by the
And now we way
with
herbs,
grew
in the
yard and
front door.
and
see cottages sprinkled along the
their doorstep just to
gardens of tansy and useful
the right over the wall
planked platform and wonder what
it
we
covers.
see a
This
platform covers a deep stoned up well, which with an
oaken
iron
bound bucket from time immemorial, had
served the people of the neighborhood v^th Nature's
own
refreshing drink.
Point was
For some years
this part of
owned by two men and when
land was sold, the owner of
the
the last lot of
this particular tract, unwill-
ing to deprive anyone of the privilege so long enjoyed,
reserved this well with a few feet of land around so that whosoever would, could drink of freely as in the past.
It
held
its
own
its
it,
waters as
for several years,
buckets and ropes being supplied as needed; then a
modern pump was put down and introduction of city water the well
perhaps at some future time
in
fell
finally
with the
into disuse; but
the interest of the
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN picturesque,
it
may be
beyond
Just
house
In the old
large family of sons
married and settled
The tinctly;
in the
in
writer
it
its
by a stone wall with a standing
still
in cottage
of
she
doorway with
I
to
keen fear
whom
houses near by.
is
dis-
always pictured as standing
the lines of
humor and kindness off
look in her
She was a woman with a good sense
eyes.
of
remembers Mrs. Wheeler very
memory
pair
was reared a
and daughters, most
playing around her mouth, and a far
and
former dignity.
Wheeler property began
the
this
and was separated from of bars.
restored to
61
humor,
of
wit. I
am
picturing Wheeler's Point as
be more than as
it is
today.
The Summer
it
used
resident
has come with ephemeral looking cottages, and the automobile has worn road, but
I
hope the
off
the grass from the country
originality,
honesty and industry
which characterized the native population
still
remains.
They had opinions of their own and expressed them. Some were Methodists and took a long walk up hill and down dale, and then again up hill to the church on the opposite side where
their voices
were heard.
Others were Universalists and walked either to the harbor church or got "set across" to the church at
Annisquam.
The
writer remembers one dainty
lady
who
pass
by on pleasant Sunday mornings.
in
little
black taffeta and Paisley shawl, used to
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
62
we
But here looking
off
are at the very top of the point
toward Squam Bar with the waves
ing in the sun,
and breaking over the bar.
glisten-
Associated
Squam Bar is a story that was told me when I was many years younger than I am now, so many that I think it may be unknown to the present generation, and may be told again as an example of homely wit and quiet humor. It was of an old man who used to with
attend the meeting of the early Methodists and
sometimes got impatient the brethren over the
when he
felt
and needed
at the frequent rhapsodies of life
At
beyond.
that the soarers
to
be called down
such times
were soaring too high to earth,
he raised
quavering voice and sang the following verse:
being able to is
as he sang
sound
who
his v*s they
his
— not
became w*s and
this
it:
people they call Christians how many things they tell the land of Canaan where saints and angels dwell, But wessels built by human skill have never got so far But what they've got aground on Squam River Sandy Bar.
Some
About
Whether he Mill River
I
lived
on
this
do not know, but he must have been
a contemplative turn of mind
between a
or the other side of
vessel getting
who
aground on Squam Bar and
the spiritual obstruction one
would encounter
too particularly into the land beyond. I
of
saw an analogy
can hear him singing the
last line
in prying
In imagination
with
ill
concealed
triumph, and the pause that followed must have been impressive.
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN In point of actual walking little
we
time, but in point of history
have covered but
and reminiscence we
We
have covered two centuries or more. our hands the wild flowers that ing along our pathway,
and
of types of people either
in
63
we have
hold in
found grow-
our memories the annals
wholly disappeared or
fast
disappearing. It
is
time to retrace our footsteps unless some
boatman appears who
quam where we
will
will "set us across" to
make our way by
Annis-
the pretty
curving streets and across the bridge to the main road;
but
if
we
we wish the
right
way we came, we may if walk by going down the road on
go back the same vary the of
the cemetery
Hodgkins Street
Washington
which brings us out on
in sight of the old mill
Street.
and thence
to
X TO RAVENSWOOD PARK TO VIEW THE MAGNOLIA IN FLOWER "Long
Of
they sat and talked together
the marvellous valley hidden in the depths of Gloucester woods,
Full of plants that love the summer, blooms of
Where
And
the Arctic birch
is
warmer
latitudes,
braided by the tropics flowery vines.
the white magnolia blossoms star the twilight of the pines."
N
the
abundance
great
of her treasures,
Nature has nothing more beautiful than the Magnolia Glauca, and perhaps that is
why
she has secreted
removed from the hand
it
in
swamps
of the ruthless.
The
far
ivory
white flower hidden in a cluster of leaves, wonderful for
shape and
makes a
single
color, emitting a
most delicate perfume,
blossom a prized possession; but these
flowers glorious in their isolation, are accessible only to
him who knows the ways
of the
swamp.
They may be seen however, from the corduroy road in Ravenswood Park, and while there are three entrances to the park, the most direct approach to the
swamp
is
by
the old
Salem Road.
Manchester bus and get
and almost
directly opposite
road leading over the
coach road.
at
off
We
hill,
We
take the
Beachmont Avenue;
on the
we
right
see a
which was the old stage
take this road following
Hermit's log house and a newly
it
made road
past the
that joins
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
66
it
on the
and look
left,
This path
slope.
road, from
down
for a path leading
will bring us out
the
on the corduroy
which we can see "the blossoms
that star
the twilight of the pines". Single magnolia trees are also seen in gardens
round about our
and strange
city
habitat of the
swamp,
especially wet.
The
least,
where two
or
to
writer
knows
three
survived
coming up again from the roots
while
say
seems to thrive
it
in
soil
not
one instance
of
a
at
a conflagration,
after
having been
burnt to the ground. interesting to
is
It
reaches
know
most northern
its
on Cape
that
it
growth, and was
of
limit
Ann
discovered by the Rev. Manassah Cutler, a minister of Ipswich
Hamlet,
now
Hamilton, some time
last part of the eighteenth century.
that
having
The
become acquainted with
while living in the South, he recognized passing our
horse
swamp on
it
story goes
fragrance
one day
in
Alighting from his
horseback.
he traced the fragrance
its
in the
to
its
source,
and
acquainted the townspeople with his discovery.
Undoubtedly the story his diary,
he was interested
his profession.
He
in the saddle, going
is
in
appears to
true, for
many
things outside of
have been frequently
from place to place.
to Gloucester to assist
nomical observations,
Parson Jones
now
judging from
going to
in
Now coming making
astro-
Annisquam with
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN this
same Reverend gentleman
also records that
67
He
lo collect fossils.
he "studied Physic", and
one
at
time had twenty-four smallpox patients under his care, so
what
is
more
natural than to think that this versatile
person was interested
And
our beautiful flora.
in
here perhaps the writer
may be pardoned
a digression; for the old time minister of
Cutler
was a
type,
whom
Parson
whose counterpart does not
today, deserves a passing notice.
Settled for
never dismissed from his chosen
field of labor,
by the recommendation
of a council
exist
and
life,
except
from the neigh-
was an occasion of fasting and was by common consent, treated with a
boring churches, which prayer, he
by few
respect equalled but
boys took to
off their hats,
him on the
sitions
and
street,
were received with
in
humility.
were unquestioned
secular officials.
and the
till
girls
the
dropped
homes
The
curtsies
his counsels
In the pulpit his
expo-
well along in the eighteenth
when a newer light broke upon some, was a radical change in their theology, not
century; and
and there
infrequently
did
whole
congregations
follow
their
beloved teacher and guide into "fresh woods and pastures green".
Think not however, cross
were "wafted
ease".
The
Far from
it,
that these old soldiers of the
to the skies
on flowery beds of
for their avocations
old time minister
were many.
was almost always expected
be schoolmaster, physician, and mechanic even,
to in
68
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
addition to his pastoral duties
which
at times
were
most exacting. In separating from the
marriage
mother church, the
was changed from
a sacrament to a
Prayers were not required or customary but the presence of a minister death-bed, even of a child.
summoned
any hour
at
office of civil act.
at funerals,
was claimed at every He was likely to be and
of the night,
great mortality the strain on his vitality
was
in times of
terrific.
Par-
son Chandler records in his diary of fainting from sheer
exhaustion while
attendance on a departing
in
spirit.
Following them through the woods on their lonely midnight journeys when every sense was on the
we do
alert,
not marvel that they developed a
keenness of vision and a sensitiveness of scent
unknown
to the ordinary traveller.
This exquisite flower owes
French
botanist,
underside of
its
When
conical.
by
any length
name
to
Magnol, a
glauca referring to the gray green leaves.
Its
fruit is small,
ripe the seeds
color burst their cells
without,
its
which
green and
are of a scarlet
and remain some days suspended
their slender filaments.
To
preserve for
of time their faculty for germinating, they
must be placed as soon as gathered, before the pulp
becomes withered, in ened and kept
From road that
rotten
wood or sand, slightly moist-
in a cool place
till
the corduroy road,
will take us out to
planted in the ground.
we may
take a gravel
Western Avenue.
XI
ALONG THE SHORE AND ACROSS THE MARSH FOR CARDINAL FLOWER "The sunlit moon, The sweet warm Hght of afternoon, The spurting torch of the Cardinal flower, The wan white rose, The Winter gale and April shower, O,
that
To
fashion these with joyous
I
had the power
hand
In music worlds might understand."
^^^HIS
very beautiful flower
wet
is
found
A
on our Cape.
localities
places,
it
in
many
habitat of
grows on swampy
land,
along creeks, but oftenest, perhaps, beside
Mr. Parsons
brooks. of
it
as "flanking the
he had undoubtedly the
first
of the
mill
remembrance, It is
it
in his anniversary
little
mind the Alewife brook where
in
town stood;
grew
poem, speaks
brook beside the Mill", and
for
in
the writer's
plentifully there.
a native of North America, belongs to the
Lobelia family, and unquestionably derives
from the likeness
it
bears to the gorgeous
of the cardinals of the
may
Roman
not be able to find
picking,
it
is
fast
it
name dress
Catholic Church.
We
this afternoon, as
becoming
its
official
by
extinct in places
once flourished, but our walk along the shore
careless
where will
it
have
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
70
a varied interest for
here and there an
us, recalling
historic incident.
As
the Cardinal
is
walk
will plan to take our
when
Road.
may be
clear
seen.
Long Beach bus and
take the Rockport or Street, or
August we
and on a
then,
the objects of interest
all
Witham
in flower early in
as
we
like
to call
day
We
get off at
the Joppa
it,
After walking a very short distance on
this
directly across on our right, we may where once stood a comfortably sized cottage house, the home of our historian, the Honorable
road,
by looking
see the spot
John
Babson, to
J.
whom
our city owes an everlasting
debt of gratitude; not only
for
the time he gave to
painstaking historical research, but also for his unselfish
labor in our public schools.
Actively engaged in business part of his
his leisure
life,
enriching his
own mind and
the benefit of his townsmen. seeing his erect figure as he
fewer
alert step;
still
affairs for
was
entirely
the greater
devoted to
using his acquirements for
A few of us remember walked
town with an
into
perhaps remember the glance of
those kindly eyes as he entered a school-room, giving
confidence and encouragement to both teacher and
His History
scholar.
among
the
first
torical merit,
We road
till
of Gloucester
is
justly rated as
of local histories, not only for
but for
its
walk the whole length
we come
its
his-
beauty of diction. of this
to the beach,
charming old
and then take the
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
Good Harbor
shore road leaving Salt Island and Little
Beach behind, with Milk
As
distance beyond.
it
and Thacher's
has always been
in the
some question
there has been
raised as to the correct that
Island
71
name of this beach I will say named as above: Little, being
corrupt English used by the Indians to signify "not
very good'*, and should never be omitted, as
it
has
acquired permanence from long usage.
Looking out upon the water
interest that in private
I
know
we
see our
Milk Island has no
islands very plainly. of
;
its
two
historical
ownership has always been
hands and has never been
utilized for
any-
thing but grazing purposes; sheep having been kept
there years ago
however, with
— possibly
its
eyes, lighted in
twin
other
Thacher's
cattle.
sometimes called Ann's
lights
1771 and kept
in operation contin-
uously since, except during the period of the lutionary
War,
more than a passing familiar to us
of historical interest
is full
all,
notice.
The
but to those
details of the tragedy as given their quaint
its
is
shore.
its
by the old
is
is
annalists in
island takes
accentuated by every
Here
name
have read the
and unstudied language, the
on a pathos which beats upon
origin of
who
Revo-
and deserves
the story
:
—
wave
that
John Avery and Anthony Thacher were cousins
and both English Non-Conformists. minister
Avery was a
and Thacher had acted as curate
in
his
— ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
72
brother's parish, but in coming to this country he
was
listed a "tayler" in the ship's passengers.
Before leaving England they seem to have
Thacher himself expresses
a solemn compact, or as **a
made it,
perpetual league of friendship, never to forsake each
other to the death, but to be partakers of each others'
misery
or
as
w^elfare,
also
of
habitation
the
in
same place".
They
New
arrived in
and Mr. Avery was
England June 4th 1635
invited to
go to Marblehead,
where there was yet no church but a
"Many
remiss in their behaviour" and called
Mr. Avery who was
by Mather "a precious holy man" could not
bring himself to go there, but went to
Thacher according
the faithful
made accompanied
we do him; at
and
settlement.
there" however were "something loose and
not know, all
to the
Newbury; and
"league" he had
After a short stay there
him.
— perhaps
his
conscience troubled
events he decided to go to Marblehead
his friend
proves his constancy by breaking up
such arrangements as he had been able to
home and
—
make
for a
follows him.
We can
see the
company
little
in imagination as
they set out, going on the
little
order to catch the
favorable morning breeze.
Avery with
his
first
wife,
six
pinnace at nightfall
children
in
and servants
they cost practically nothing but their keep in those days;
—Thacher
with his four children, servants and
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN second wife,
whom
he had married
They
leaving England.
wait
for
73
weeks before
six
one more,
Thomas
Thacher, a nephew of Anthony; but an unconquerable depression and presentiment as to the unfavorable
outcome and
voyage has taken possession
of the
at the last
the journey
moment he
by
falters
A
land.
and decides takes
stranger
him
of
make
to
place,
his
which with the four seamen make a company
We
twenty-three souls.
meagre possessions and
their
night, not without
in
whom
them out
they
They
nightfall of another day,
supplied with
ill
them
sails
their
or sooner;
pinnace
little
and the second night
finds
Cape Ann. And here we quote from the letter of Mr. Thacher to his brother Peter,
"the Mariners" he says, "would not put to
anchor
cast
pleased the like
God
off
quaint
to
the
for
to the
are expecting to reach
but they encounter contrary winds, is
down
of
morning a breeze takes
In the
trust.
new home by
their
settling
commending themselves
of the harbor.
of
can see them disposing
till
Lord
was never known
away.
let
Then
it
mighty a storm as the
New England; it was so came home whereupon the
in
out more cable which at last slipped
our sailors
knew
were driven before the
wind.*'
pathetic picture of the
little
forting
but
morning, but before daylight
to send so
furious that our anchor
mariners
sails,
not
what
Here
follows a most
group as they
and cheering each other
to do, but
in the
sat
Lord
"comagainst
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
74
which stared them
ghastly death sat
the
in
triumphing upon each one's forehead/*
was "no screech" he
and
face
There
suddenly they were
says, but
driven by the violence of the waves upon "a rock
between two high rocks and yet of them,
and
Mr. Avery and
succeeded
his oldest son,
all
one rock".
Four
Mr. Thacher
his daughter,
in getting into
a hole on
the top of one of the high rocks and thought that not
only they were safe but that the others in the pinnace
might come to them.
Another merciless wave however, swept them water and
into the
with such force
it
same time
at the
went
to pieces.
these distressed servants of the rock
struck the boat
It
was then while
God were
hanging on to
and Mr. Thacher held Mr. Avery by the
hand, both resolving to die together, that Mr. Avery lifted
up
his eyes to heaven,
what the pleasure
of
God
and said "we know not
is, I
fear
we
have been too
unmindful of his former deliverances, Lord challenge a promise of to deliver us from to
heaven through the I
all sufficient
finished speaking than a
Swan Song"
cannot
satisfaction of Jesus
challenge Thee".
and indeed wafted him form the basis
I
thou hast promised
condemnation and to bring us safe
Christ, this therefore
had he
my life, but
to
we
sooner
wave swept him
heaven, but his
of Whittier*s
with which
No last
off
words
poem "Parson Avery*s are
all familiar.
Thacher got a foothold and reached the shore;
— ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN in
75
a few moments his wife extricated herself from the
breaking timbers and joined him, the only two souls
were saved out
that
embarked.
Most
cribed in the
pitiful
are the father's feelings des-
before referred
letter
to,
"he looked
as
The remembrance
for his children
and saw them
not'*.
of their faces
"poor
lambs" seemed
bored into
his soul,
had
the twenty-three that
of
silent
to
and we cannot but wonder
if
have they
ever ceased to haunt him.
But these were heroic including a scarlet cloak
was
a long time
for
which
— and
days; if
some
now
not
tradition says
clothing
in existence,
was wrapped
around every baby of Thacher descent at christening provisions,
and best
materials for striking a
a
snapsack
all
fire
were washed ashore.
Thachers made themselves comfortable taken
two days
off
containing
of
till
they were
and on leaving the island
later,
which was afterward granted him, he gave
name
of
Thacher's
Woe.
to
but subsequently removed to rest of
and dying
and have come
life,
and they pro-
life;
Yarmouth where he many important
filling
age of eighty.
cliildren
sprang a long
various walks of
his
at the
Three more
whom
the
Marblehead where he preached a few years,
remained the offices
it
Public and private gener-
osity relieved their destitute condition
ceeded
The
line
but
were born
to
him from
of descendants eminent in
we have
to the creek
finished our story
where we must
turn
up
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
76
and
There
cross the marsh.
is
but one house on the
we pass and take a path into the woods; we walk along we will inquire into the future Thomas whose forebodings led him to take the
marsh which
and as of
journey by land, instead of casting his
The
others.
speculative are sure to ask
so depressed,
why had
with the
lot
"why was he
he such forebodings**?
Like many other questions these must
lie
unan-
we know more about these things than we do now. Of one thing we are sure he made a great swered
till
;
deal of his
life,
he was a most
for
brilliant scholar,
being proficient in Arabic and Syrian, and so well
To of
Hebrew as
make a
lexicon of the language.
his linguistic acquirements
he added a knowledge
versed in
to
Mechanics and Physics, the
publishing the
first
last
year of his
life
medical treatise that appeared in
America.
Much more
that
is
interesting might
be added
regarding the descendants of this man, but this would
not be local history, and
came
forget, that
we come
left,
and taking
to a ditch.
cover "the Cardinals fortunate,
we
We should
not far from a not very well defined path
leading to the
we
must not
out in search of the Cardinal flower.
now be till
we
I
am
will take
than taking
it
this path,
we walk on
Here perhaps we may
fiery plume'*;
and
if
we
dis-
are so
sure as lovers of our native wild flowers
more
satisfaction in seeing
away with
us.
it
growing,
;
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN Turtle-head also grows here which interesting
more
for
its
is
77
a flower
curious formation, than for
its
beauty.
Turning back it till
we come
to the
farm road again,
to Pleasant Street,
not far from the highway
we
follow
Rockport, which
where we take the bus
is
for
home.
Our walk afield or
we
this
afternoon has not taken us
consumed more than a few hours
have gone
into the past.
for
our history nearly three centuries
Truly,
"The great eventful Present hides the Past, but through the din Of its loud Hfe hints and echoes from the life behind steal in And the lore of home and fireside, and the legendary rhyme.
Make
the task of duty lighter which the
True man owes
far
time, but
his time."
;
XII
DOWN THE OLD WEST GLOUCESTER CAUSEWAY FOR FALSE FOXGLOVE "The world
is
too
much with
Getting and spending,
we
Little
We
we
us; late
and soon,
lay waste our powers:
see in Nature that
is
ours
have given our hearts away a sordid boon."
3T
is
late
summer; the flowers
in our
soon be gone — few now are
will
the composites:
woods
left,
but
the Geradias however
are not yet out of flower, so let us go in
search of the False Foxglove, a very lovely
There
of that family.
which
is
are
two kinds
—
a low shrub, with an entire
fern-leafed,
which has a much higher
more indented
the
leaf; stalk,
member downy, and the with a
Both have a pale yellow
leaf.
—
the
on the Cape, but
for
shaped flower, of a sweet elusive fragrance latter
being a It is
little
found
larger.
in several places
we
a pleasant walk,
will take the
bus to Concord Street,
walk down Concord see
on the
right,
elevation at our
We follow tance of the
bell-
to
West
Gloucester
we which we
Leaving the bus here,
Causeway
Street,
a large yellow house, on a slight
left,
this
serving as a landmark.
road
Causeway
till
within a very short dis-
leading to Russ* Island,
when
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
80
by looking
on the
carefully
leading through the
tall
we
right,
a path
shall see
reed-like grass to the upland.
We
follow this path, and under the oak trees,
shall
soon see the delicate, fern-like
foliage,
we
and the
we
yellow flowers of the False Foxglove, for which are looking.
This
oak
of the
a parasitic plant, which feeds on the roots
is
tree, so
we
must
resist
we
any temptation
might have of taking away a root for transplanting,
and content ourselves with the blossoms.
Coming
back,
Street, pondering as
we we
settlers of this section
go,
come over
on the hardship the early
must have experienced
years, in attending church to
Concord
retrace our steps to
on the Green;
many
they had
Russ* Island, and then
this road, cross
take the ferry from Biskie
for
for
Head
TrynaFs Cove on
to
the opposite shore.
As
in those
days attendance
at
church worship
was compulsory, this road must have felt of many an unwilling foot, but we cannot the recording If
family,
we
Angel thought
wish to
find
downy
the
to a ledge
on our
grassy lane, turning
down
down
cross this
and
we walk on
here, walking
at right,
and soon see a causeway
of
also a similar
of record.
species of this
Opposite
left.
believe that
worthy
on regaining Concord Street
Atlantic Avenue, and turn
come
this sin
the imprint
ledge
which we
broken
one
this
till
granite.
farther on,
to
we is
a
follow
We which
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN brings us out to a shall If
find
both
little
varieties,
wooded
island.
81
Here we
but not in great abundance.
not too late in the season, another species of the
same
family, the low, purple Geradia, will also
flower,
may
be
and along the water's edge on the marsh, Sea Lavender, or Rosemary.
find
"O
gracious mother
Wakes
How Mock
us to
life
whose benignant
and
lulls
us
breast
all to rest
thy sweet features, kind to every clime
with their smile the wrinkled front of time."
in
we
;;
;
XIII
ON THE OLD WEST PARISH ROAD PAST THE SITE OF THE 2d PARISH CHURCH AND THE OLD BURYING GROUND " Along
this
The summer
old
West Parish way
grasses
Here some
Among
grow
On It
thicket, brake,
and
Where,
Some
settler made his home, and With crimson flush aglow.
fen.
level green, or hill.
The
and winds, and turns again. country roadways will.
turns
As
Here
its
garden rose-bush that he old-time bloom will show.
yet
set
temple held its pace, bush and tree o'ergrown,
years, their
Now You
shows grey old foundation-stone in the Province day.
Some mossy
Beside it, gleaming bright today The wild pink roses blow
By brambled
old garden bush o'ergrown
the green,
scarce with labored search can trace
Each
old foundation-stone.
walk with loitering feet today Across the verdant sod. I
And
tread the blossom-bordered
Those old-time worthies
ERHAPS
there
way
trod."
nothing that furnishes
is
a more sympathetic theme to a poet than
an old road.
walk
was doubtless a Summer's West Parish poet took over
It
that our
the old meeting-house road, and in our imagination
can see him, rich
him from boyhood, wander-
that
had been
ing
over this fast disappearing roadway.
loiters
by a
we
in the historic lore of the locality,
familiar to
wild-rose, that beckons to
Now, he
him from a
brambled thicket; now, he pauses before the vestiges of
an old orchard, beside the foundation-stones of what
was once an
old
settler's
home
;
and now he drops a
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
84
an old garden rose bush, bravely
sigh, perhaps, beside
blooming on, long
have been crossed Finally,
after the
hands that
set
there
it
peace.
in the everlasting
he comes to the foundation-stones of the
old church, even in that day scarcely traceable
and
;
as he stands there, he feels the presence of those old
worthies, treading "the blossom bordered
We will for the path
bracing
We
is
we
not an easy one, and
air of early Fall to
may
way".
take this walk in mid or late September,
need the
encourage our footsteps.
not even be successful in tracing the old
foundation-stones, but
we may
at least familiarize our-
selves with the history of the old church.
As
in
we
our previous walks,
have recourse to
the friendly bus, and having taken the one
we
West
Gloucester,
follow
Concord
Lower
Parish Road,
on our
left.
We
which
often
till
we come
Thompson
road
at
direction, for a
first,
be called the
Street,
Street
which
is
a
but soon becomes only
beset with briars and brambles,
impede our
unmistakable path,
to
Thompson
for
We
Street.
to
turn in
much
Concord
which used
Street,
fairly well-defined
a path, very
get off at
bound
and
progress.
there
is
good stone wall on
It is,
however, an
no uncertainty
of
either side separates
the original road from the adjoining pastures.
The our
by
left;
way and while we trodden
obstructions, our
on
lies
quite closely to the wall
are
somewhat inconvenienced
wsJk
is
not without beauty.
The
— ALONG THE OLD ROADS Oh CAPE ANN on our
hills
Berries,
which
Sweet Fern
graceful
we may
abundance, and
Fox
wonderful variety
right are radiant with a
Golden-Rod; the
of
85
seen in
is
even refresh ourselves with along our path are quite
in places
plentiful. If
we
also find Ladies* Tresses, Polygala,
Emerging from the
Geradia.
we
take our walk in mid-September,
and the low purple
thicket,
we come
on an open place, and a low spreading rock rest after our strenuous
out
invites
Looking around
walk.
shall
a
we
us,
see the Bearberry growing nearby, the dark red berry
peeping
out
from
reminding one a
under the brownish-green
vine,
wild Cranberry.
The
little
of the
blossom of the Bearberry unlike the Arbutus,
unpleasant
we we
see
and the plant receives
name from
supposed to devour
where
of a delicate pink, not
is
the relish with
Standing on
its fruit.
the path leads
away
rather
its
which bears are this rock,
to the right,
and
soon come to a ledge and a large boulder.
Here we
find
a pathway leading up to a
hill
or
plateau and just to the southeast stood the old church.
But few of the "old foundation-stones" are
left
now
most of them have been gradually carried away by impious hands to serve genial to them. fit
anew
in structures far less
Why not have
left
companions to the remnants
that
how
still
them
of a
con-
in their repose
few old
poplars,
stand to attest the love of beauty that some-
crept into the souls of these old pioneers.
Looking
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
86
down from the plateau, the scene is one beauty and one cannot but
and imagine these old keepers in their hearts, as
"Who
they
made
not,
the
site
go even
was
farther,
of the faith, chanting
the ascent.
ascend into the
shall
that
feel
May we
chosen with intention.
of incomparable
hill of
the
Lord?
And who shall stand in his holy place? He that hath clean hands and a pure heart
Who
hath not
Nor sworn
At
lifted
up
his soul to
Vanity,
deceitfully."
best, perhaps,
we
have only approximately
fixed the boundaries of the old church, but refresh our
minds with a
bit of history.
fourth of the population of the section,
In
town were
1
we may 688, one
living in this
and as the roads were poor, and the distance
around the head of Annisquam River was quite considerable, a ferry
was
Head
Cove, where the
for
to Trynall
694 from Biskie fare was one penny
established in
1
a person, and two for a horse.
But even ient in
this
mode
was very inconven1712 the town was
of travel
Winter weather, and
in
petitioned to set off this locality as a separate precinct.
The
request
was not
granted, but the petitioners
allowed to hire a teacher
who
for the three
were
Winter months,
should also preach to them, thus combining the
offices of
teacher and preacher.
continued
till
1716,
become a separate church.
when
This arrangement
they were granted leave to
precinct,
and maintain a Parish
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN This was the second town, and
87
religious organization of the
Mr. Thompson, who had served them
acceptably the preceding four years, was chosen their
He
settled pastor.
had a house near the church, was
married, and had five children, but being of stitution,
cemetery.
died
in
1
724, and was buried
con-
frail
in
the old
We shall visit his grave later on in our walk.
The pastorate of the next minister was an unhappy one, but his successor. Parson Fuller, the last settled minister of the church,
He
came
there,
was a benediction
a young man, in
1
769,
to the Parish. just
preceding
the trying years of the Revolution; but the struggle
ended, he entered upon ministry.
a serene and untroubled
For something more than
years,
fifty
ministered to this people, only closing his labors
he
felt
the infirmities of age approaching.
he
when
After
his
removal from town, he often returned to the scene of his life-long ministry, visiting
among
his
ioners,
and Mr. Babson quaintly remarks
"The
longer his
departure
was
stay
by
members being
his
this pastorate, the pulpit
was
We
of
other
denominations, largely
read in the church records of
disciplined for holding views incom-
patible with those of the church,
that
the
regretted.*'
ministers
Universalists.
in his history:
more
was extended,
After the closing of filled
former parish-
they were growing
into
and
it is
easy to see
a more liberal
Finally, those of the Universalist faith
went
faith.
off
and
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
88
organized a society of their own; the original church
ceased to
exist,
and the ancient
was
edifice
left to
the
vandalism of boys, and the decaying elements of time.
No
response
was
given to an appeal to repair
although the oaken timbers were torn
down
We Bray
to
in
this
now
which
Street,
we
it
was
take up our walk again, strolling along
we
cross,
and come again
into
is
now
a grassy road, quite
we
have
just left.
which
from the section
road,
stalwart,
and
846.
1
Street,
Thompson different
still
it,
Following
soon come to the old cemetery,
now
This was the second
overgrown with briar and bush.
cemetery, set apart by the town about the beginning of the
Few
18th century.
of
the stones are
standing; that, however, of the Rev. is
in
the
a
fair state of preservation.
now
Samuel Thompson
We
shall find
it
in
be
south-west corner, and the inscription can
easily deciphered. Here
lies
Ye body
buried of
ye Revd.
Mr. Samuel Thompson Past our of ye 2nd.
Church
of Christ in Glosester aged 33 Years deed. December
Ye
8
1724.
1724-1824— 1923— Nearly years have passed since this young it
life
two
hundred
went
out,
and
possesses a pathetic interest for us, since nothing
known
of his descendants,
he
a wife and
left
is
though as before mentioned
five children, the little
Samuel being
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
A
a posthumous child.
contemporary speaks
89
sweet temper; inoffensive
in his
and peaceable
in his
adds that "his
ministerial gifts
cess answerable,
died in the
him
of
been "of pleasant aspect and mein;
as having
of a
whole behavior; pious
The
conversation".
were
writer then
superior, his suc-
and
as he preached, so he lived
and
faith**.
What
Can anyone doubt
a tribute!
even though
short, left
an impress on
that his
life,
his fellow-beings,
which, broadening through the years,
may be
felt
even
"For the things seen are temporal,
at this present day.
but the things unseen are eternal." It is
We
getting late,
may keep on
and the shadows are lengthening.
this
road and come out on Concord
which brings us
Street again,
Essex Avenue; but
to
we
sake of the beautiful view
for the
steps to
Bray
walk
Street,
Turtle
to
take a cross path by the side of the Street.
Going along
this path,
we
will retrace our
Pond pond
Hill,
to
and
Sumner
gaze with rapture at
the beautiful stretch of country that Nature has spread
out for us on our
left;
and turning from the scenes
of
desolation of the early afternoon, to this beautiful living
Mathew Arnold come
picture, the lines of "Still
do thy
quiet ministers
move
to our
mind;
on.
Their glorious tasks in silence perfecting; Still working, blaming our vain turmoil; Laborers that shall not fail when Man is gone."
From Sumner walk, and
we
Street to
wait again
for
Essex Avenue
is
a short
our friend, the bus.
XIV TO THE WHALE'S JAW OVER LAMB LEDGE "I like the Fall,
like the
I
way
smells of smoke,
it
and dry leaves burning."
HERE
is
a haze in the
the October
air,
sun shimmers drowsily in the heavens,
and the
We
of
spell
Dogtown
must take another
upon
is
walk
us.
the
to
Whale's Jaw, but not wholly over the same roads.
Today we walk
for
will
go up over
Lamb Ledge
Skunk Cabbage) and come out
(as in the
as before
on
the old Rockport road.
We
walk then toward the
and going
stile,
in
by
ture
by a good path.
hill,
get over
We
some
now
till
we come
this stile, cross Split
We follow the path bars,
track a short distance bars.
east
till
Rock
to
a
pas-
around the
and walk up the
we come
to
railroad
a second pair of
follow a path over a gravel bank, get
over two walls, cross a brook, and take a path across pasture to Vivian
s
Road.
We
cross this road,
and
swamp on our left; but there is a good path around it, which we take, and soon we come out on Gee Avenue near Peter's Pulpit. From this point we can see the Whale's Jaw, and we now proceed as come
in
to a
our previous walk.
;
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
92
Arrived
changed
our objective point,
at
shadow
under the
is
of this
huge
cleft
we
rock to
sit
down
rest.
How
what greeted us
the aspect of nature from
on our previous walk; but where is there a insensible to its charms, as to be unmoved
There
spectacle set out before us.
beginningness
it is
and tender
delicate
was
true as there
is
no sense of
hardened and colored by the scorching suns
and the season
work
plishment the
life
of
fills
done and a
is
the
How
air.
lesson, Nature, let
lesson,
which
lesson of
like the life of
two
in
me
duties kept at
is
blown
the loud world proclaim their enmity.
unsevered from tranquility
Far
noisier
is
one
Of Of
Too
a plant
learn of thee;
every wind
labor that in lasting
The
at its best.
Though toil,
summer
sense of accom-
restful
an individual when lived "One One One
become
of
Autumn, but what repose!
later cold of
s
the
at
in the Spring, the
has gradually
foliage
soul so
fruit
—
outgrows
schemes, accomplished
in
repose;
great for haste, too high for rivalry."
we
go back to Peter's Pulpit, walk
down Gee Avenue
a short, distance, and then take a
Returning,
path to the
We then
left
that brings us to the Vivian
Road.
follow this road to Cherry Street, which
we
Fox Hill, and coming out on Poplar Here we may go to the right to Washington Street, or to the left to Maplewood Avenue. It is late afternoon when we reach our own door.
take, going over Street.
The
lengthening shadows soon give place to darkness,
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN and as the night
closes in
upon
us,
lamp, our mind reverts to the scene
and we left
93
light the \
behind only a j
few hours
We
before.
have gathered no flowers, |
but each of us has culled a bunch of the fragrant
Bayberry; and, as
we
hold
it
in our
hand,
we wonder j
if
the bushes
left
behind hug the rocks more closely
in ]
the darkness, and
if
they miss the touch of the hands j
that
once gathered
The
their
picture, too, of the great cleft rock, silhouetted
against the sky, looms
wonder
if
grey-green berries for candles.
it
up before
us,
and again
we
ever gets tired of standing there, forever ,
a
silent
witness of Nature's powerful forces.
;
; ;
;
;
XV TO WOLF HILL "I want to stride the
For
hills!
The The
Me
Oh,
my
hills;
am
I
IN
NOVEMBER
feet cry out
death of
sick to
streets
nausea of pavements, and people always about savagery of mortar and
under, hedges
ET
me
us go to the
hills
hills- that look
quam
— the
let
us go
s
Summer,'*
"The Summer and the Winter Midway a truce are holding soft,
Their
The
low
the Annis-
if
November, such
in
describes in his "St. Martin
A
beautiful
down upon
River; and
a day
beats
steel, that
in."
we
can on
as Whittier
when
here
consenting atmosphere
tents of
silent
peace unfolding.
woods, the lonely
hills,
Rise solemn in their gladness
The
quiet, that the valley
Is scarcely
fills
joy or sadness."
This walk may be taken from town foot, starting
and walking
on
from any point on Washington Street,
Marsh Street, which is about from the Community House. This
directly to
a mile distant street
entirely
was, in the writer's remembrance, only a lane
that terminated with a pair of bars directly across from
the cemetery entrance pasture.
—
all
beyond was a
large
cow-
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
96
There were then which
is still
three old houses on
standing, in
ognizable,
and the other has been
doubt, this
town,
for
its
and enlarged as
standing, but so altered
was one
of the
on a map
of
it,
one of
original shape, another
first
torn
to
is
be unrec-
down. Without
inhabited localities in
740, the dwelling houses of
I
three of our earliest settlers are indicated, perhaps the three just spoken
Sometime just
beyond the
of.
in the
bars,
sixties
was opened
a quarry
and the road was extended
the purpose of working
was found to be impracticable
of a beautiful pink color,
and
for building purposes,
was
but the granite, which
it;
for
it
The
was abandoned.
opening, however, then made, seemed to suggest posfor building,
sibilities
and houses began
These houses gave such
there.
that time on, lot after lot has entire hill
As for our
is
City Hall that
till
from
now
the
but the
sent
was
cut from
it
was destroyed by fire, and out of town I think some
—
only specimens
that
Gloucester are two monuments in tery,
built
dotted over with summer homes.
some may have been was;
be
satisfaction, that,
been taken,
to the granite quarry, stone
first
to
one bearing the name
I
know
of
in
Oak Grove Ceme-
of Nathaniel
Babson and
the other David Allen.
Well,
we walk down
expect to see flowers at
we cannot we will stop
the road, and as
this
time of year,
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN and look
at
much more
some Barberry bushes on the
left,
beautiful in fruit than in flower.
97
that are
They
will
doubtless be glad to have us pick a few sprays for our table decoration, for they must miss the eager that used to
invariably
their
strip
was served
when our mothers used
two
of barberries, this
was
Many
at dinner.
ber
As
hands
branches for a sauce, that of us
remem-
to lay in their bushel or
and put them up
in molasses-sugar.
before the days of glass
jars,
the
sauce was turned into large stone crocks, which stood
row on
a
in
and refreshing drink
was considered a safe sick possessed of some
it
for the
All
medicinal qualities.
we no
Beside being used on
the closet floor.
the table, diluted with water,
this,
however,
is
now
longer go for barberries, or stem
changed;
them
of a
November evening. It may be only a fancy, but somehow the bushes do not look so thrifty and enterprising as they
a I
fat
used
to,
nor do the berries present such
and opulent an appearance
as in former days.
suppose the picking was good for them.
Having picked our
little
bouquet,
the sumacs and blue bramble-berries,
two
roads, one branching off to the
the other going over the the latter road, but, to
if
hill;
we
the tide
walk along the shore road,
we proceed past till we come to
left
by the
is till
in, it will
we
repay us
see prohibitory
signs, for besides
having a pretty view of the
much was done
to
beautify
shore,
must eventually take
this
river,
road by a lover
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
98
now
of Nature, not
and take the
We
living.
road.
hill
Before going over the see at
hill,
on the extreme
base,
its
Alder bushes,
can then come back,
we
must not
berry, rather than a flower walk,
to
a clump of black
right,
with berries; and as
scarlet
fail
we
this
is
a
and
stop here
gather enough for the decoration of our Thanksgiving
The
table.
those of us those
who
bushes are
who
tall
opposite directions,
again to two roads, going in
which we
neither of
This
to the next turn to the right.
unattractive road, but
we
have
to take
road that leads around the base of the
we come
this road,
accessible; but
are not so fortunate.
And now we come proceed
and not too
are long of limb must be generous to
it,
hill.
but
take,
a stony,
is
for
it is
the
Following
again to the beautiful shore of the
Annisquam River, with
the island over across, and
soon reach Trynall's Cove, which was the mainland
end
of the ferry.
ferry plied
and during
As one
this
little
that time the right of running
all
held by successive
First
For about a hundred years
between Biskie Head and the
was
members
of the
Hodgkins
we
are about to take
one;
it
was
family.
the connecting line between the
and Second Parishes, the road from
travelled
this
cove;
it
—
the
— must have been a much-
but with the passing
of
the
ferry,
occasioned probably by the lessened importance of this part of the
town,
it
gradually
fell
into disuse, until
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN finally
who
by people
frequented, except
was seldom
it
pastured cattle in the adjacent pastures.
from the
Partly, perhaps,
murder, that was committed
from
inherent loneliness,
its
it
the
in
came
were quickened
steps
An
there at nightfall.
and
it,
it
for evil-doers.
who
lived
lived to
had
air of
it,
partly
vicinity,
be an avoided
to
how
especially
if
mystery seemed
the
caught
to
hang
always seemed a possible hiding-place
The
on
story too, of the old
the
the age
forgotten
in passing
ghastly
a
of
recital
road, and the writer remembers as a child,
over
99
corner,
so
told.
He
said that
God
was always
108 years and
of
him,
man Hewet
finally
he
himself
starved
to death.
But none
of
houses
in proximity,
of
and
life
its
these
depress us today;
stories
now
even though
wholesome
with the returning Spring.
activities,
We take
to
closed, speak
be renewed
a parting look at
the wonderful reflections in the calm and peaceful
up the road, drinking
water, and then turn
beauty of the gorgeous coloring.
up on
Soon
the
in
hills
the
loom
either side, taking on, in the light of the setting
sun, a look of dignity,
if
not of majesty; the approach-
ing twilight sharpens their outlines against the sky, finally, all details
are
lost,
of earth
and rock, looking forward
another
morn, stand
landscape.
out
till,
and only impressive masses
in
the
to the
slowly
birth
of
dissolving
100
than
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
Good old Dr. Watts has we can say it ourselves. *'
Before the
Or
From
To
We twinkling
hills in
Elarth received
everlasting
said
it
for us better
order stood, its
name.
Thou
art
God
endless years the same."
have come out by the hospital with lights, to
Washington
the bus here, or walk, as
we
Street.
please.
its
We can take
"
XVI TO THE WOODS FOR CHRISTMAS GREENS "O
gracious beauty, ever
O sights and When
old!
low sunshine warns the
the
Of snow-blown
HE
new and
sounds of Nature, doubly dear
fields
and waves
closing year
of Arctic cold
I
sun hangs low in the heavens and
warns us
of the
approach
of the great
Feast of the Christian year.
We
must
go to the woods for our Christmas greens; for while
we may buy own
are only half our selves,
we
must go
our wreaths in the market, they
—
have them a part
to
of our-
and bring home with each
for them,
green branch and creeping fern the fragrance and
atmosphere of the woods.
The
early Christians did not celebrate the feast
of Christ's birth
till
and possibly not historic
evidence
Domitian. set for
it,
Even
well along into the
until
we
many have of
then there
2nd
century,
years after; for the it,
was
was no
first
in the reign of
month
particular
but sometime in the 5th century, the western
church ordered that then and forever
be celebrated on the 25th
of
after,
December.
it
This day
was not selected by chance, but with intention being the date of the Winter
been celebrated by the Romans.
solstice,
it
should
;
for
it
had long
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
102
Indeed, the entire heathen world, especially the
more northern viewing life
and
in the return of Sol, the
Rome
powers
activities of the
Many of
Gods.
day
nations, held this
in great veneration,
beginning of renewed of Nature,
and
of the
these old usages and beliefs of heathen
and Germany had passed over
into Christianity,
and in order to combat them, the church instituted rituals, which, while keeping the date, engrafted a Christian festival
upon
that they
Washington
Irving, in his
bridge Hall, shows persisted
—the
were used
how many
waits; but beginning
Christmas at Bracecustoms had
of these
bowl, and the
wassail
the
yule-log,
to celebrating.
an early date, the church
at
displaced them by dramatic representations of events in
the
finally
of
life
Christ,
manger-songs and
was
a universal religious festival
Thus we
see, that
carols,
till
established.
we do not celebrate the day Christ, we do much more, we
while
of the natural birth of
celebrate the birth of the spiritual transformation, that
came
to the
heathen world; what
and what His
Now,
life
with
stood
this
background,
Christmas greens; and our resources go.
—
For those
it
physical
of us
we
will
and accessory
who have it
the Essex woods, where
we
—
to bring,
go
for our
depend very much upon
will
does not well serve us)
creeping things
He came
for.
we
automobiles (the bus
would be
half fern, half
— where
find
all
moss
—
fine
to
go to
those graceful that are called
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN in the
by the general name
incorrectly, really,
We
Botany, Lycopodiums.
only one variety
We
is
of ground-pine;
and go
Road
in
The
winter
air
has invigorated
our contact with Nature has cheered us, and, with
our arms
with our treasures,
filled
**0, the poetry of Earth
And
is
regain our car.
never dead.**
here the writer cannot refrain
just
days when the
recalling the
we
fine
old
New
own wood lot and cut The trees had
wood.
hand and sawed choppers, but
it
lay crisp
The "doctored
old
by the wood
upon
to
be hauled home; and
this
work must be done when the
the ground.
wooden
out;
supply
into eight foot lengths
had yet
hewn
was brought
his winter*s
felled before-
usually
shod
up** in the leisure of
with rough
it
owned
been
part of the Winter*s
snow
from
from
England
farmer, bright of eye and ruddy of countenance, his
are
winter and
eagerly push aside the dry leaves in search of the
fragrant trailing greens.
of
woods,
Here we
surrounded by the beauty of the woods
us,
but
Pond
as far as
directly into the
keeping to the right for perhaps a mile.
we
them, though
rightly so called.
motor on the Essex
Street, turn in here,
know
103
sled
that
had been
early Winter and
fitted
posts at each of the four corners
and
to
it
was hitched
the old farm
now
in the sober-
horse, fiery perhaps in his youth, but
ness of old age committed to the daily routine of farm
work.
With
the shining axe twisted into the doubled
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
104
rope that passed between the two hind posts, the hired
man
in front
ready to
drive,
and the farmer standing up
behind steadying himself by the two posts a picture that lingers everything
was
still
even
formed
When
were taken up,
started off with a zest that
all
stirred
once more the Morgan blood of old Ned.
And
the
last hill
and hemlock
The
of the
old horse
evening feed.
Later
light of the sitting-room fire the
adven-
his
day are recounted
tures of the
and the landing
at the door!
soon unhitched and given
by the cheerful
anything ever
the return of a victorious warrior
in
than the taking of the fragrant pine
Was
home coming!
more triumphal
is
this
the memory.
in
in readiness, the reins
the bells jingled, and
—
to the expectant family;
the balkings and jumpings being received with becoming attention.
The
clothing
the
be
fill
enwinations from the pitch stained
room with a piney fragrance never
forgotten, the healthy drowsiness with
rewards her narrator,
Now, will
servants
faithful
and the scene for us
lot of
who
Woods
for
other nice things, that
We
early in the year. off to
Parsons house.
the
We
we
we
Christmas ferns shall find there.
Witham Street as we did walk down Witham Street,
for
left just
keeping to the right
overcomes the
can take a good long walk,
Again we take the bus and turn
last
which Nature
dissolves.
go to the Southern
and a
at
to
before
we get to
the Jeffrey
follow this path, cross the brook,
till
we come
to a ledge
on the
left.
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
We climb up over the which soon leads
Here we
to
ledge, following a winding path,
lower ground.
Christmas
find the beautiful
perhaps everything
105
we
fern,
and
want; but as lovers of Nature,
us only so gather as not to injure a plant or tree,
let
make
or
we
it
less beautiful for
another year.
Returning,
follow this path, which brings us to the golf-links;
and by going around the
links
by the
wall,
we come
we
arrive at
out at Pleasant Street, following which
where we again take the
the Rockport highway,
We
have had a most delightful walk, and fortu-
nate indeed are
we who
have taken
arrange a shorter one, that nearly
This
is
around Bond's
or not, to
bus.
Bond
Hill,
Avenue, and walk
till
and
We
Street.
we
it;
all
but of us
we may
let
us
now
can take.
take the bus
turn in here from
Essex
get to the last house
on our
Here we find a road that leads up into the woods. It is known as the Pitman road, and the house is still standing where the old man Pitman lived. We right.
cannot perhaps find the choice things here, but sprays of
Pine and Hemlock are fragrant and woodsy; they
are from the great out-of-doors, and ourselves
come
and
for the "shut-ins",
the bit of
green
—
who
we
gather for
thankfully wel-
not the commercial
green,
but that brought by a loving friend.
The trees,
flowers are gone, the leaves falling from the
have made a carpet for our
feet
and a covering
106
ALONG THE OLD ROADS OF CAPE ANN
for the
but
young
how
The
plant-life.
evergreens only remain,
beautiful they are!
•'Close to ray heart
The
With calm For
I
fold
sweet day yields
leaf
;
each lovely thing
and not disconsolate
patience of the woods,
and blossom, when
God
FINIS.
I
wait
gives us Spring,"