4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24
Anatomy of a Shoe Plain Oxford Cap Toe Oxford Whole Cut Oxford Plain Derby Wingtip Derby Semi Brogue Full Brogue Monk Strap Penny Loafer Tassle Loafer
Collar g Tongue Liningg
Counter
Heel 4
Quarter
Upper
Vampp
Toe
Midsole
Outsole
Characteristics Closed lacing system Low-heeled Exposed ankle
Plain
Oxford
An plain oxford is a lace up shoe that has the bottom of the lacing section sewn closed and one that also has the eyelet facings stitched underneath the vamp (front section of the shoe). This style of shoe is also sometimes referred to as a closed front shoe due to the fact the lacing section is is sewn closed.
Formal Rating | 4.5 / 5
6
Oxford Oxford xford Plain Pl i Plain lain ain Oxford Closed Lacing
Low-heeled
Characteristics Closed lacing system Low-heeled Exposed ankle Cap toe detailing
Cap Toe
Oxford
The cap toe oxford, sometimes also referred to as captoe or cap-toe, is probably the most widespread Oxford shoe style in existence. In addition to the vamp and quarters, an extra piece of leather – the so-called toe cap – is added across the toe box. The most popular color is undoubtedly black, and the black cap toe Oxford is the most popular shoe for the majority of classic men’s shoe manufacturers.
Formal Rating | 5 / 5
8
Captoe Capt Oxford Capt Captoe Ct Closed lacing
Cap toe
Characteristics Closed lacing system Low-heeled Exposed ankle Wingtip detailing
Wingtip
Oxford
Wingtip oxfords are considered to be more casual than the Cap Toe. It has a pointed toe cap (shaped like a ‘W’ or a ‘M’ or ‘U’) while still having closed lacing In black, it can be worn to the office but in dark brown it becomes more versatile because you may now combine them with tweed, and other more casual outfits and looks, including jeans.
Formal Rating | 4 / 5
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Wingtip ingt ingtip Oxford Oxford Oxfor Closed lacing
Wingtip detail
Characteristics Open lacing system Exposed ankle Cap toe with brogue
Semi
Brogue Semi brogue shoes have a toe cap without extensions or wings and feature broguing both along the cap’s edge and sides and have a medallion. Today, you will find many variations of the semi brogue, including V cap, cap without medallion, and a second, recessed piece of brogued leather behind the cap.
Formal Rating | 3.5 / 5
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Brogue
Semi Sem rogue g Open pg lacing
Brogue Cap-toe brogue
Characteristics Open lacing system Exposed ankle Wingitp with brogue
Full
Brogue Full brogues extend the toecap with wingtips, and have brogueing both on top of the toecap and along the seams, and often on the body of the “wings” as well. the wings extend along the full length of the shoe and meet at a center seam at the heel. Sometimes they are referred to as ‘English brogues’ in the US and as ‘American brogues’ in the UK.
Formal Rating | 3.5 / 5
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B
Brogue Full Brogue Fu l Full Fl Closed Lacing
Detailing extends to the heel
Brogue Detailing
Characteristics Open lacing system Low-heeled Exposed ankle No detail
Plain
Derby A plain derby is also a lace up shoe but one which has an open lacing section (is not sewn closed at the bottom), the eyelet facings are also sewn on the top of the vamp. The more casual versions come in suede leather. In Austria, a black patent leather derby is occasionally worn with black tie or even white tie ensembles.
Formal Rating | 4 / 5
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Derby Pl Plain Derby Open lacing
No detail
Characteristics Open lacing system Low-heeled Exposed ankle Wingtip detail
Wingtip
Derby
The wingtip derby has the pointed toe cap (shaped like a ‘W’ or a ‘M’ or ‘U’) with extensions that can either extend along both sides of the shoe or stop just short of the heel cap and are thus called wingtips. They feature broguing both on the edges and in the center and have heel caps when the wings don’t extend along both sides of the shoe.
Formal Rating | 4 / 5
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Wingtip
Db by Derby Wingti Derby erbyy Exposed Ankle
Open Lacing
Wingtip Detail
Characteristics Laceless Dual Strap Buckle Closing
Monk
Strap With its bold buckle, the monk strap sits comfortably between an Oxford and a Derby in terms of formality, and as a rakish alternative to a lace-up. Although the style dates back many centuries when monks were looking for an alternative to the sandal, these shoes are favoured by style aficionados looking for something different.
Formal Rating | 3.5 / 5
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Monk Mon Strap Monk onk onk Strap Dual Strap
Buckle detailing
Characteristics Laceless Exposed ankle Leather vamp
Penny
Loafer
The penny loafer features a distinctive semi-pocket on the vamp, a strip of leather across the saddle. It’s cutout is perfectly suited to store a penny to be used in case of an emergency, hence the name penny loafer. In 1936 the Bass Shoe Co adapted the design of a Norwegian fishermen moccasin style shoe and called it Weejun combining the words Norwegian and Injun.
Formal Rating | 2 / 5
22
Penny enny Loafer Penny ey y Simple slip-on
Strip of leather
Loafer Loafe
Characteristics No lacing system Exposed ankle Tassle detail
Tassle
Loafer
Unlike the other dress shoes, the tassel loafers feature dangling leather tassels which decorate the top vamp of the shoe. Originally designed as a wholecut style, the tassel loafer has a rounded toe outlined by a reverse seam. These loafers are often made of cordovan leather and have been known for their classic and timeless style, durability and versatility.
Formal Rating | 2 / 5
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Tassle s ssle
Loafer
Tassle l Loafers Slip-On p
Tassle Detailing