Good Mood Travel Magazine. Autumn 2015 by Milda Mizarienė

Ma azine TRAVEL TIPS & RECOMMENDATIONS ̶ LITHUANIA bY LOCALS

Sugihara House Museum: A Miracle in Kaunas HONEY: READY IN AUTUMN, SAVOURED IN WINTER

OUTLOOK: LITHUANIAN HEALTH RESORTS Užupis: where visitors have the right to be jealous

Autu mn 2015

Your Local Advisors in Lithuania: Milda Mizarienė

Agnė Šileikytė

Raimonda Vyšnia

Ieva Lučinskytė

Ieva Šimkienė

Peter Walsh

Gabija Lunevičiūtė

Evaldas Činga

Journalist, guide

Journalist

Tim Ochser

Miglė Šaltytė

Gailė Pranckutė

Urtė Sirvydienė

Editor

Journalist

English language editor

Photographer

Journalist

Translator

Photographer

Advertising project manager

Journalist, photographer

Designer

Feel free to contact us if you have any questions:

www.goodmoodtravel.lt +370 687 25966 * milda@goodmoodtravel.lt Cover photo by Vaidas Pupelis Publisher: UAB Atostogos LT ISSN 2351-745X

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* reklama@goodmoodtravel.lt

Editor’s Word

Dear future guests, Today we want to speak in images. Our cameras buzz to capture the numberless colours and shades of colours, the scent of autumn in the kitchen, the cosy moments spent together on chilly evenings. I have never agreed that autumn is gloomy and I’m not sad to see the summer go. Autumn is perhaps my favourite season, a time for opportunities, a time to return to work bursting with energy, plans and ideas. It's probably more pleasant to travel in autumn as well: the summer heat dies down and leaves you more alert, energetic and curious. We’re very lucky to have the four seasons and enjoy all they can offer our eyes, our plates, our souls and our imagination. Autumn is a time to store vitamins and good emotions for the winter, and trust me, Lithuania is the perfect place for that. Breathtaking natural seasons are one of the reasons visitors love Lithuania: as one of my American guests put it, Lithuania is first and foremost a place for nature lovers. Now, in our third issue, we shall invite you to take a look at colourful Lithuanian autumn moments captured by our photographer Agnė, and introduce you to Lithuania’s renowned health and mineral water resorts, Druskininkai, Birštonas, and Anykščiai, to see what they can offer in terms of wellness. For those in need of vitamins and energy for the winter, we shall recommend Lithuanian honey and tell you about our strong local beekeeping traditions. For those looking for some autumn fruit, original gifts or just an insight into the capital’s day to day life, we’ll include a detailed guide to Vilnius’s lively and vibrant markets. We shall also invite you to Vilnius for a stroll in the revived

district of Užupis, often referred to as the Lithuanian Montmartre, where you can meet one of its artists; to see the museum dedicated to the Japanese Consul Chiune Sugihara, who saved thousands of Jews in wartime Kaunas; and to try your hand at pottery with Lithuanian clay in Merkinė. Wishing you warm and cosy autumn evenings,

Milda

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Inside the Magazine

OUTLOOK: Lithuanian Health Resorts

TASTE OF LITHUANIA: Honey

EXPLORING LITHUANIA: A Miracle in Kaunas

TRAVEL FOCUS. U탑upis: where visitors have the right to be jealous

18 4

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EXPLORING LITHUANIA: The Talking Statues in Vilnius

OUR RECOMMENDATIONS: Fine dining restaurants

GIFTS&SOUVENIRS: Our Recommendations

TRY THIS! A Day with Clay

GET IN A GOOD MOOD: Gourmet Week 2015

MEET THE LOCALS! Artist Edita Suchockytė

EVENT CALENDAR. Autumn

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OUTLOOK

Lithuanian health resorts – oases of wellness and beauty

By Ieva Lučinskytė & Ieva Šimkienė

Birštonas, Anykščiai and Druskininkai are the three main health resorts in Lithuania and they are all wonderfully green, beautiful and peaceful places. In competing with each other for the many people seeking their services, each of them has raised their standards to new highs. They all offer the very best health, wellness and beauty procedures, a wide range of entertainment options and are located in breathtakingly beautiful surroundings. Just a few years ago, Birštonas was widely thought of as a relaxation lounge for the elderly. That all changed when the retreat underwent a major facelift and made better use of its natural resources and geographical location. The town is now flourishing like never before. Ieva Šimkienė tells you about Birštonas and what to do there.

Photos courtesy of Druskininkai Tourism and Business Information Centre

The two other well-known Lithuanian health resorts, Anykščiai and Druskininkai, underwent a similar transformation. Anykščiai recently opened a new Tree Crown Path, which attracted more than 5,000 visitors in the first few days alone. And Druskininkai is internationally renowned for its beauty and outstanding wellness services. People now flock there all year round thanks to its recently opened indoor ski slope and numerous other attractions. Ieva Lučinskytė will be your guide to these two delightful resorts.

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Druskininkai If you want a healthy vacation where you can relax, refresh and reboot, then Druskininkai is the place for you. A little more than an hour’s drive from the capital, this small, exceptionally beautiful town is packed with incredible hotels, SPA complexes, indoor leisure parks, great restaurants and outdoor entertainment. Druskininkai is famous for its healing salty waters, muds and outstanding natural beauty. On the many long walks you can take there, you can enjoy the sound of nature – the trees sighing, the birds chirping and the wind whistling. It is hard to believe that Druskininkai was just an ordinary village in the 18th century. When the health benefits of its mineral waters were first discovered, everything quickly changed. Once Tsar Nicholas I of Russia approved Druskininkai as an official health resort, the village quickly became a popular retreat which attracted people from Lithuania and abroad. This charming and distinctive little town is now one of Lithuania’s most beloved attractions. Druskininkai is a true SPA resort located right by the meandering Nemunas River. Everyone in Lithuania knows about the magical mud that “works wonders”. The town is rich in curative, peaty mud deposits and the air is totally clean as there is no industry in the vicinity. The town’s inhabitants have adopted a healthy and ecological way of living. The many visitors who go there either want to live like the locals for a few days and stroll around at an unbelievably relaxed pace. Or perhaps they just want to enjoy a romantic weekend and take advantage of the outstanding natural beauty and many excellent restaurants. But, above all, the town is about health and wellness. It is packed with numerous sanatoriums

and wellness centres that offer literally hundreds of procedures of different lengths and intensity. These have been carefully designed by the town’s many resident doctors and health professionals. And virtually every room in town offers breathtakingly scenic views.

Many SPA centres have thermal water pools that are used for water procedures that soften skin, heal wounds and generally nurture the body. There is no such thing as a bad view in Druskininkai. Many SPA centres have thermal water pools that are used for water procedures that soften skin, heal wounds and generally nurture the body. But the list of available procedures is far too long to list. Needless to say, there is something for everyone. Druskininkai was the hometown of the famous Lithuanian composer and artist, Mikalojus Konstantinas Čiurlionis. A signi-

ficant part of his music and paintings were conceived there. His family home has been converted into a museum, where several of his paintings are on permanent exhibition. Don’t miss the chance to admire his stunning works of symbolism, romanticism and Art Nouveau. Did you know that Čiurlionis’s paintings look as if they were painted from a bird’seye perspective? No, well see for yourself. If you find yourself, hiking or biking in Gydyklų Park, you should venture to the blue river of the Nemunas from where you can reach a valley of salty waters. Many believe that a sip of the water will make you younger. I think it is definitely worth a try but don’t forget to let me know if it really works! Karolio Dineikos Health Park was opened to visitors in May 2015 and is yet another impressive addition to the town’s infrastructure. The park features natural hydrotherapy baths with cascading water, a sandy volleyball court, a badminton court, climbing apparatus for kids and lots of open air sports training equipment. »»»

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The colourful music fountain in the very centre of Druskininkai never fails to impress visitors. The Las Vegas-style jets of water appear to be dancing to the accompanying music. You can choose from a vast range of songs for a small fee and enjoy the spectacular performance. The fountain was only opened a few years ago but it is already one of the townâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most beloved attractions. As if you needed any more reasons to visit Druskininkai, the town also has an indoor snow arena that is open all year. It is the only indoor winter arena in the Baltic states and boasts the biggest indoor ski slope in the world. The snow is 100% natural which only adds to the magic. The arena has become a massive attraction in itself and has helped the town become an all-year round resort. GrĹŤtas Park, which is very close to Druskininkai, is another must-see place. The open air museum is full of Soviet statues, monuments and paraphernalia. It is a fascinating collection that should appeal to anyone with an interest

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in history. The restaurant is also Soviet-themed and everything from the cutlery to the glasses are amusingly Soviet. Oh, and there is also a rather lovely little zoo there. All in all, Grutas Park makes for an amazing experience. The spectacular landscapes, authentic surrounding villages, lush nature, abundant health

and wellness procedures and topquality services make Druskininkai one of the most exciting resorts in the country. Everyone who goes there loves it and wants to go back for more. That, dear friends, is Druskininkai.

The drive there is a delight in itself: the road winds along forests followed by gentle green hills, picturesque lakes, small towns and even a mound, making it a great start to a day out in one of Lithuania’s most beautiful and peaceful mineral water resorts. This fun procedure improves blood circulation, metabolism and helps restore balance to your immune system. Afterwards, a few dips in cold mineral water for your hands and feet and you’re good to go. By the way, if you haven’t yet tried natural mineral water, there’s a small pump-room nearby (a word of warning – it tastes awful). As you leave the Kneipp garden, walk towards the yellow house and behind it you’ll find the steps leading up to the viewing platform on Vytautas hill. There you’ll be greeted by a spectacular panorama of Lithuania’s longest river, the

Nemunas, the surrounding forest and the town – a view best enjoyed in verdant summer or fiery autumn. Go down the steps on the other side to find a sculpture of Vytautas the Great on the riverbank. If you’re feeling fit enough for a 3–5 kilometre walk (and another 3–5 kilometre walk back), I recommend taking the path along the riverbank. It is a great way to relax and take in the marvellous views. When you reach the skatepark, turn left and you’ll find yourself in the city’s central park, a wonderful place with tall pine trees and playgrounds with different spaceships every 30 meters (the fitness courts for adults, in comparison, seem like a bore). Continue along the path until your child grows tired of shouting, “There’s another one, look!”, or until you reach the mineral water graduation tower by the Eglė Medical SPA. Made from brushwood, the tower is quite an intriguing architectural object. Here’s how it works: mineral water comes straight from the well and flows down the tower, evaporating naturally from the impact of »»»

Photos courtesy of blogger uilgoji.lt

Birštonas For those who could do with a refreshing stroll in the forest and free wellness procedures, why not give the lovely little spa town of Birštonas a try? There is no need for a long and tiring journey – Birštonas is only an hour away from Vilnius. The drive there is a delight in itself: the road winds along forests followed by gentle green hills, picturesque lakes, small towns and even a mound, making it a great start to a day out in one of Lithuania’s most beautiful and peaceful mineral water resorts. To really get the best out of your trip, here’s a list of some of my personal favourite things to see and do. Once you’re there, park your car by the church. Follow the sound of laughing and shrieking children, and soon you’ll notice barefoot walkers enjoying the reflexology paths in the Kneipp garden. The reflexology paths are sort of like an outdoor massage studio: they are designed to stimulate the acupressure points of the sole as you walk on different surfaces (the surfaces vary from pinecones to twigs to stones of different sizes).

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Photo courtesy of Birštonas Tourism Information Centre

sun and wind. This way, it creates an effect similar to breathing sea air – so who says you can’t enjoy a SPA for free? A good walk and all those wellness treatments call for a sweet reward. Right in front of the graduation tower, on the roof of Medical SPA Eglės sanatorija, is a place that is not very well known

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but loved by all who manage to find it – Saulės terasa (the Sun Terrace). Ask for directions at the front desk, and they’ll tell you how to reach the wing you need. Then, take the lift to the 7th floor, ring the doorbell and the friendly staff will show you in. There you are: a wonderful view of the treetops and river, soft comfy sun loungers

to lay on (and perhaps get a little tan), healthy cocktails, divine desserts with berry toppings and lazy hours sharing a cup of coffee and conversation. Cycling enthusiasts can enjoy take the same route, albeit a little more quickly. If you’re looking to rent a bike, bike rental is available on the riverbank or in Basanavičius square (in front of the sushi café). If the riverbank path seems a little short for you, you can always try the 7-kilometre-long Žvėrinčius path that goes through the forest. Birštonas is also famous for its natural mineral waters. The best known of these is called Vytautas, which is drunk by many Lithuanians. Birštonas has very good news for health vacation lovers – it is planning to open a huge Vytautas Mineral SPA center this December - a complex that will consist of mineral water baths, pools and saunas, a center of medical diagnostics and an academy for healthy lifestyles. »»»

ANCIENT HEALING TRADITIONS

There is a good reason for the saying that even

AIR AND WATER

of homeland have healing powers!

ETNO SPA is the first and only SPA that is nourishing Lithuanian traditions. We created this place in order to bring back the ancient wisdom, get closer to our roots and introduce it to the world. Every nation lived intact with the surrounding nature, worshiping its powers and respecting its principles. So the most effective elements are those we grew up with, therefore we only use certificated, ecological, top quality materials such as honey, bran, poppy seeds, chestnuts, live-beer, milk, amber, clay, herbal and essential oils, handmade Lithuanian incense... and human touch. The biggest deficit to the man of today is not the material world, but his personal time, time that he can live for himself, within himself… Time when he can peacefully enjoy, love, feel, touch and be touched, smell, behold and listen to the silence… We invite you to experience life! “ROMANTIC boutique hotel & spa” Kranto St. 24, Panevežys Mob.: +370 61 61 61 70 E-mail.: hotel@romantic.lt www.romantic.lt www.etnospa.lt Perfect Hotel Spa 2013

Perfect Spa Conception 2013

««««

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From underwater massages to amber therapy – indulge yourself When visiting Druskininkai or Birštonas, trying wellness and medical treatments is a must. We recommend Medical SPA Eglės sanatorija which provides the highest quality treatments for reasonable prices. Medical SPA Eglės sanatorija is a distinctly modern experience. The SPA boasts state-of-the-art equipment and has an outstanding hotel surrounded by lush pine forest. Thanks to their top-quality wellness treatments, health facilities and reasonable prices, Medical SPA Eglės sanatorija is the perfect place to rejuvenate and pamper yourself. So if you have decided to spend a day in one of these health resorts, we recommend you devote a couple of hours to strengthening your body. Both resorts are historically famous for their mineral waters and curative mud – so why not try both? Take a dip in a bath of mineral water mixed with peat mud, which is also known as the chocolate bath (the taste is not quite the same though). It may feel a little unpleasant at first but it’s worth it. This treatment is particularly effective in treating joint and spine conditions as well as metabolic and nervous system disorders. Massage lovers should try the underwater massage which is given in a hot tub with an underwater stream of varying pressure. The treatment helps to relieve muscle tension and fatigue, improves metabolism and is extremely good for your skin. Medical SPA Eglės sanatorija offers over 100 similar treatments. The largest swimming pool and sauna complex in both regions is open every day from 18:00 on workdays and 13:00

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Photos courtesy of Medical SPA Eglės sanatorija

(Druskininkai)/15:00 (Birštonas) on Sundays. You’ll find several different types of saunas in the sauna area: an infrared sauna, a Himalayan salt sauna, a hammam and an ice room, as well as regular steam saunas of varying temperatures and humidity. Kids are always welcome in the children’s swimming pool. Naturally, you can enjoy more of what Medical SPA Eglės sanatorija has to offer if you stay for a couple of days. Staying longer also means you can get personal advice from their specialists about the best wellness treatments for you. When in Birštonas, whatever you choose, don’t miss out on the Amber SPA, a complex of unique treatments that helps release the ancient energy of amber to strengthen your entire body. The treatment includes enjoying an amber-encrusted infrared sauna, a special massage ritual with amber oil and dust given on a massage table encrusted with Baltic amber, and amber water – a combination that both relieves tension and improves the immune system. The Amber SPA is only available

for guests of Eglės sanatorija and pre-booking is recommended. Alternatively, halotherapy and the salt cave is also a great choice. Combine all the treatments with an invigorating walk in the

fresh air, and your stay in those health oases is bound to leave you rested and revived. »»»

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You’ll want to ditch your smartphone and leave your laptop in the hotel room so you can fully experience the magic of the place.

AnykŠČiai The small resort town of Anykščiai is 110km from Vilnius and is well-loved by Lithuanians thanks to its air of tranquility, natural beauty and prominent place in national folklore. The writer Jonas Biliūnas lived in a nearby village and created folk tales, legends and poems that are dear to most Lithuanians. There is a hill with a rather spectacular monument to him which, if you climb it, is said to greatly increase your chance of lasting happiness. Biliūnas lived and worked in the village of Niūronys. His old house is now a museum that is well worth a visit to see how the great writer spent his days and drew his inspiration. If nothing else, it is a fascinating snapshot of a time and place. For Biliūnas, happiness was a rather ephemeral phenomenon that was inextricable from other people and our relations with them. Anykščiai certainly gets its fill of happiness thanks to its outstanding beauty and healthy way of life. Visitors inevitably leave the resort feeling better than when they arrived! A visit to any of the wellness

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SPA centres in Anykščiai will do you the world of good. They are as good as any in the country and are widely acclaimed for their topquality services, therapies and procedures. But although the SPA resorts are of the highest quality, it is the tranquility of the town and its surrounding natural beauty that really reinvigorates guests as much as anything else. You’ll want to ditch your smartphone and leave your laptop in the hotel room so you can fully experience the magic of the place. Anykščiai is located at the confluence of two rivers, the Šventoji and Anykšta. The town is rapidly developing into a major tourist attraction and has invested

heavily both in its infrastructure and in private businesses. Today, the town is full of fun and exciting entertainment options for people of all ages. But the newest and most exciting thing in town is definitely the recently opened Tree Crown Path (Lajų Takas). It is not only unique in the Baltic states but in the whole of Eastern Europe (the closest are in Germany and Austria). The Tree Crown Path is a 300-meter long path which winds its way along the treetops. A 34-meter high tower overlooking the spectacular surroundings of Anykščiai Regional Park is built into this highly impressive structure. The towers height, while impressive,

Photos courtesy of Anykščiai Tourism Information Centre

is not the most important thing – you simply feel amazing among the swaying treetops. It is as if you are part of the landscape. The entire pathway is an elegant piece of architecture in itself that blends in perfectly with the forest canopy. The main tower is decorated with a traditional Lithuanian design motif that only adds to its charm. The 15-metre high Rubikiai Tower offers a beautiful view of the dazzlingly blue Rubikių Lake and surrounding forest. Kalita Hill is another attraction where families enjoy sledding in winter (kids can reach speeds of up to 40km/h!). But it is a beautiful place at any time of year and locals love to spend time there taking romantic walks or just sitting and enjoying the view. Do you want to lose yourself in Anykščiai? There are three different mazes made from willow and corn. You’ll need good orientation skills to get through them but you can always try your luck. If you are looking for more of an adrenaline rush, however, try go-carting (locally, they call it Kart racing).

The variety of museums for such a small town is a source of local pride. There is the Angel museum, Horse museum and the Narrow Gauge museum. The first two are self-explanatory while in the latter you can learn many intriguing facts and stories about local cultural and architectural monuments such as Anykščiai Railway Station. There

is also a memorial museum in Anykščiai which is dedicated to the famous Lithuanian writer, Antanas Baranauskas. As you can see, there is plenty to do and see in Anykščiai. All you need to is enough time to take it all in and fully enjoy this beautiful place.

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Photo by A.Šileikytė

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Travel Focus Užupis: where visitors have the right to be jealous

By Peter Walsh & Milda Mizarienė

Photos by A.Šileikytė

Užupis is often referred to as the Montmartre of Vilnius but that lazy comparison does not do justice to this uniquely Lithuanian and wonderfully charismatic neighbourhood (it is actually a self-proclaimed independent republic but is yet to be recognised by any country). Steeped in history (and set around an extremely steep hill), Užupis is a place like no other. From being one of the city’s most dangerous districts in Soviet times and a haunt for impoverished artists, in recent years it has become a thriving community. Thankfully, increased gentrification has done little to change the area’s bohemian spirit; if anything, Užupis is an inspiring example of urban regeneration at its best.

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Užupis is an inspiring example of urban re-generation at its best. Reinventing itself Užupis is a relatively small district hemmed in on three sides: by the fast-flowing River Vilnia, a plateau of steep hills and an area of disused Soviet industry (which is quickly becoming transformed into a fashionable area in itself). Its physical separateness from the rest of the city only contributes to its unique identity and strong sense of community. Of the neighbourhood’s 7,000 residents, it is estimated that 1,000 of them are artists (both of the commercially successful and squatting variety). You can’t walk down the street there without encountering some colourful-looking character or pleasantly surprising piece of art. As Miglė, an Užupis resident (who translates for this magazine) puts it: “It's a place of perpetual holiday. It’s always full of tourists and 'artistic' people, which can be

both lovely and tiring, and feel a little surreal. Like the only thing that's mundane there is, well, me.” The regular (and, for me, jarring) comparisons with Montmartre no doubt stem from the area’s free-spirited character (it is teeming with idiosyncratic sculptures and objects) as well as its elegant architecture. But take a peek into any of the many hidden courtyards and you will find a distinctly Lithuanian ambiance; colourful old wooden residences with wonky external staircases and crumbling old houses that seem to have grown out of the land. What makes Užupis unique is its harmonious blend of old, rusticstyle dwellings and sleek urban architecture. It may have become one of the most fashionable neighbourhoods in the city but its humble origins (it was settled by Jewish merchants in the 16th century) and cutting-edge cultural life (it was re-settled by squatting artists in the 1980s) give it a healthy sense of perspective and selfawareness. This is a place where intelligence and introspection can feel right at home. The right to be individual Užupis declared itself an independent republic on April 1, 1997. It has its own currency, flag, president, cabinet, anthem and army (said to consist of about 11 people). Every April 1, it celebrates its somewhat tongue-in-cheek independence by manning the main bridge and stamping the passports of those who wish to enter. But the pièce de résistance of the republic is its famed constitution. The constitution was created by local residents and can be found hanging on a long wall on Paupio Street (it is translated into 18 languages). Tourists seek out the version in their language »»»

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What to see and visit The best way to ‘do’ Užupis (ugh, horrible expression) is to enter by the main bridge, which is next to St. Anne’s Church. It’s a small neighbourhood that is centred around Užupio Street. There isn’t much to see in terms of grandiosity; the whole point of going there is to stroll around and take in the atmosphere. Užupio Street is full of galleries, boutiques, cafes and restaurants. It is also home to the Angel of Užupis, a somewhat tacky (by Užupis standards) sculpture of the angel Gabriel blowing a trumpet. The statue was unveiled in 2002 and is the civic focal point of the neighbourhood. For some real art, head to the river, past Užupio kavinė (a great place to have a beer with its wooden terrace overhanging the ever-bubbling, burbling River Vilnia) and visit the sprawling complex of buildings that forms Galera. Established in 1995, it has since grown into an impressive artists’ colony. The buildings themselves are works of art, while the river itself has been turned into a sort of exhibition space, lined and dotted with some remarkable sculptures and inevitably smile at some of the wonderful articles, which include such gems as: Article 4 – Everyone has the right to make mistakes; Article 6 – Everyone has the right to love; Article 8 – Everyone has the right to be undistinguished and unknown; Article 12 – A dog has the right to be a dog; Article 21 – Everyone has the right to appreciate their unimportance; Article 32 – Everyone is responsible for their freedom. I have shown the constitution to many visiting friends over the years and they all loved it (we walked away discussing our favourite points, mine being the one about a dog having the right to be a dog).

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It's a place of perpetual holiday.

(personally, I rather like the giant phallus). It is also worth following the river in the other direction. There you can still see Užupis at its most romantic and unreconstructed. There is even a set of stairs leading down to the river where a narrow bank of grass is used by locals to sunbathe or else sit and enjoy a bottle of wine. If you follow the steeply rising Užupio Street to the top, it forks in two directions. If you go left, along Krivių Street, you can find some of the best panoramic views of Vilnius. There is an old Soviet-era bunker hidden behind a school, and several vertiginously steep paths that lead back down to the parkland which buffers Užupis from the Old Town. The area around there is mostly residential and will give you a good insight into how damned lucky the locals are who live there. If you go right at the fork you will come to Bernadine Cemetery, one of the three oldest cemeteries in Vilnius. Built into the steep side of a hill, this is a truly beautiful place. Immaculately kept, like all Baltic cemeteries, it gives death a strangely reassuring sense of – pedigree. It

also offers a fascinatingly oblique view of Vilnius from a rarely seen perspective. Užupis is small enough that you can’t really get lost in it but it is immense in its artisticallyinspired vision to transcend physical space. The only danger is that the relatively wealthy people moving into the area will eventually rob it of the very thing that makes it so

special: its egalitarian view of the world and passionate belief in noncorporate values. Miglė sums the situation up with her usual succinctness: “It's a wonderful place to live, but I'm not sure I could ever really feel at home living there. I'm pretty sure five years from now Užupis will be completely different: so many new things are being built.” »»»

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Sarune Zurba Photos

Sweetbreads with fava beans and courgette.

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Tomatoes, plums, marjoram and sour milk cream.

pamper yourself with the true colours anD tastes of the lithuanian seasons A little while ago we rediscovered Užupis, or, rather, we found yet another good reason to go there apart from all the popular tourist attractions. Of the several places that have given new life to the district, one of the most exciting is the restaurant Sweet Root. Now in its second year, Sweet Root is the place to go if you want to sample true Lithuanian cuisine – the kind we want our guests to experience. There are none of the stodgy dishes they serve up in touristy places. Instead, the restaurant reveals the true colours and tastes of the Lithuanian seasons – we’d even go as far as to call it a unique form of modern Lithuanian cuisine inspired by all-too-often overlooked local produce. Eating at Sweet Root will tell you what’s growing at the moment in Lithuania’s farms, forests, meadows, and even the owners’ garden. You’ll always be offered something new depending on whether you dine there in spring, summer, autumn or winter. Whatever’s in season, you’re sure to find it on your table. The most imaginative uses are found for the unlikeliest ingredients: from wood sorrel to hyssop to turnip to nettles to water mint to parsley root to chickweed. The endlessly inventive menu never fails to impress. We love pampering ourselves with fine dining in this most intriguing restaurant. You can sample a four or seven-course tasting menu and watch the food being prepared in the open kitchen; or enjoy a warm evening in the cosy courtyard terrace of the courtyard and savour the unique ambiance of Užupis. A friendly chat with the chef Justinas or founder Sigitas will reveal their respect both for local culinary

traditions and all things natural. Their passion for food and the good life is certainly infectious. What could be more enjoyable and illuminating than experiencing the best of what the country and season has to offer? All real food lovers agree so don’t forget to book a table in advance!

sweetroot.lt

užuPio St. 22-1, VilniuS

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Photo by A.Šileikytė

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Taste Of Lithuania

SwEET COUNTRY LITHUANIA

Ready in autumn, savoured in winter

Text & Photos by Ieva Lučinskytė

There was a time when Lithuanians lived a pagan life – as a matter of fact, Lithuania was the last pagan nation in Europe. People considered themselves a part of Mother Earth and worshipped nature and believed in natural forces. Bees, flowers and trees were thought to be divine and the bee was a symbol of immortality and resurrection. Today, an exhibition at the Museum of Ancient Beekeeping in Stripeikiai village displays sculptures of the Lithuanian pagan bee gods and spiritual protectors, Babilas and Austėja. Given this age-old reverence towards bees, it is hardly suprising that the production and consumption of honey is a deep-rooted tradition throughout the country. Indeed, you will not find a Lithuanian who has not tasted this sweet treasure of nature.

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Bees Do you remember Winney the Pooh? Honey was his favorite food. It is a sweet, fragrant and viscous liquid made with the nectar from flowers and collected by honey bees. Bees are the only insect in the world that produce a food eaten by humans (along with Winnie the Pooh). They have big eyes, small bodies, a tough exoskeleton and are famously busy but highly sophisticated cratures. They are amongst the most studied and best known insects and they have been around for more than 30 million years. Have you ever marveled at how intricate and intelligent the whole honey making process is for these nano-sized creatures? It all begins with the pollen. Bees have an extraordinary ability to pollinate flowers, which in turn produce an aromatic fluid called nectar. This oozes out of the pollinated flower. The female bees, which are also known as workers, then store the nectar in their tiny little stomachs and fly back to their hives. Male honey bees, or drones, do not forage for the hives and nor does the queen bee. At the hives, ÂťÂťÂť

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the bees regurgitate the nectar into the honeycomb and wait for the nectar to evaporate. And voilà, it becomes what we all know and love – honey. Beekeeping Beekeeping, or apiculture, is one of the oldest and strongest traditions in Lithuania. You can find many households around the country that practice urban beekeeping and naturally produce outstanding honeys in their backyard. Such houses will usually be surrounded by an enriched flora – gardens full of sweet plants, flowers and trees. There is an old Lithuanian saying – bees will only land on a good-hearted person’s skin. It is also believed that beekeepers are intelligent and trustworthy people. Beekeeping may not be for everyone, however, as it requires plenty of time, hard work, patience and love for this most amazing of God’s creatures. An ancient cure Lithuania’s honey is very natural and pure, which is why it is so delicious and luscious. Putting its taste asde, it is also the country's favourite natural remedy. Lithuanians have long believed that it has exceptional healing powers. Honey has several health benefits. It is said to provide allergy relief, especially during the hay fever season. It also boosts your energy as it can help with sleepless nights and it aids morning sickness and upset stomachs. Honey contains lightening agents, which is why it is used in facial masks. Its antibacterial compounds help decrease the appearance of scars and stimulates rapid healing. It is also a natural humectant, meaning that it draws moisture from the air into the skin. It not only hydrates the skin but also repairs and protects it from environmental damage. No wonder

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you will find a pot of honey in every Lithuanian household! In some countries, pure honey is in scarce supply and is thus regarded as a luxury food. In Lithuania, however, top-quality organic honey is widely available. A Lithuania with no locally produced honey is unimaginable; the inhabitants would not survive the winter without their beloved staple! It makes the best (and tastiest) medicine for colds and flus. Food We all know that honey is an excellent food not only for bees but for people too. It comes in a range of different colours and flavours depending on where it is made – the region, soil and type of blossom pollinated by the honeybees all come into play. It varies widely in colour and sometimes has a hint of green fluorescence. Honey is an agricultural product, just like apples or tomatoes, so the taste will vary from year to year but the aroma is usually the same: woody and warm. It is often used as a natural sweetener in drinks but the best way to enjoy honey is to eat it with a spoon straight out of the jar. In Lithuania, honey is often used as a spread for fresh cucumbers. Mead (Midus) is the finest honey liquor made in Lithuania. It is a traditional drink that is usually served on special occasions. In fact, Midus is one of the oldest drinks in Lithuania. Travellers and chroniclers wrote about it as early as the 11th century and spread word of it to the rest of the world. Everyone enjoys the flavour of natural honey with hops, lime blossoms and juniper berries. Midus is aromatic and savoury and goes perfectly with desserts. Storage Lithuanian honey is normally ready in the autumn. That is when

Honey remains at the heart of traditional Lithuanian exports along with linen and amber. people are able to taste the new batches and stock up on sweet and delicious honey for the long winter ahead. New honey is liquid and runny but it gradually crystallizes over time. Crystallisation is not a sign of age; the taste and richness won’t be affected. If anything, it is a sign of quality. If you gently warm a jar of hardened honey, it will return to its liquid state but take care not to overheat it as this changes the delicate flavour.

As long as you know how to store honey, it will not expire. It must be kept in a cool, dry place, such as a kitchen cupboard. Exposure to the sun and warm temperatures can cause fermentation and lower the quality of your honey. Honey remains at the heart of traditional Lithuanian exports along with linen and amber. Lithuanians are proud of their tradition of producing pure honey. In Lithuanian culture, honeybees are a powerful symbol of friendship. These magnificent little creatures help us better appreciate nature and teach us how to live in harmony with it.

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Photo by A.Šileikytė

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Exploring Lithuania

The most valuable lesson to take away from Sugihara House is that indifference is not an option.

Sugihara House Museum: A miracle in Kaunas

By Ieva Lučinskytė

Photos by Raimonda Vyšnia

This September marks the 75th anniversary of ‘Visas for life.’ In 1940, Mr. Chiune Sugihara, who was Vice-Consul of the Consulate of Japan at Kaunas from 1939 to 1940, granted transit visas to Jewish people and saved thousands of lives – more than any other individual during the war. Ieva and Raimonda visited Sugihara House museum in Kaunas and share their strong impressions of the place.

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Hanukkah Hanukkah (or Chanukah) is the Jewish festival of lights. It celebrates one of the greatest miracles in Jewish history and dates back 165 BC – nearly two centuries before the beginning of Christianity. The word Hanukah means rededication. The festival is a celebration of how the Maccabees (a small group of Jews) rebelled against the Syrian King in order to reclaim their Temple. They had to clean and restore the Temple which had been completely destroyed. They rededicated it to God by lighting a lamp (menorah). There was only a day’s worth of fuel for the lamp but it miraculously stayed alight for 8 days. Hanukkah is celebrated every year for eight days between late November and late December. Families gather together to light candles, sing festive songs such as Ma’oz Tzur and eat foods fried in oil. As part of the celebration, children also receive money and sweets. A miracle in Kaunas In 1940, another Jewish miracle occurred when the Japanese ViceConsul, Mr. Chiune Sugihara, stood up to his Foreign Ministry so he could issue life-saving visas for Jewish refugees. It has now been 75 years since Sugihara rescued 6,000 people from an otherwise grim fate. WWII began on September 1, 1939, when Germany invaded Poland. The Jews feared for their lives and were forced to find refuge in neighboring countries. Many of them crossed the border into Lithuania. Three days before the invasion of Poland, Chiune Sugihara opened a Japanese consulate in Kaunas. It was there that he granted transit visas to the refugees and saved thousands of lives. Sugihara put

his career, security and even his own life in jeopardy in order to help the Jewish people. His wife, Yukiko, and his children also feared for their lives. The Soviets ordered him to close the consulate but he carried on with his work. Sugihara was an exceptionally open-minded man who valued foreign ideas, religion, philosophy and language.

He didn't think twice about risking everything to help as many Jewish refugees as he could. People around the world still pray and remember the victims of World War II. In Lithuania, the late Sugihara is honored through a museum in Kaunas especially dedicated to him. The museum contains, among other things, documentary »»»

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films, touching pictures and testimonials from survivors. The Sugihara House Museum is where the diplomat was actually stationed in Lithuania at the time. It is small but rich in history and humanity. Sugihara House Museum This poignant museum is in a green and affluent residential neighborhood. It was founded in 1999 through the efforts of Lithuanian and Belgian intellectuals and businessman to commemorate the Japanese hero. There are cherry trees along the road that lead up to the small gate of the museum, which was referred to by the Jews as the Gate of Hope. During the Holocaust,

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people queued up in front of the gate for hours and even days to obtain a visa. Once they were granted visas, they wasted no time in getting on trains heading to Moscow. From there they went on to Kobe, where they were allowed to stay for several months. Today, that same gate has the following words engraved on it in Japanese: Visa for Life, Gate of Hope. Simonas Dovidavicius, the director of the museum, has been managing Sugihara House for 14 years. He has extensive knowledge of what happened there and is always on hand to inform and educate visitors. Simonas wishes that the museum could exhibit more original documents; the few that it does contain mainly

consist of copies of visas donated by the families of survivors. The majority of original visas are kept by the survivorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s families because documents signed by Sugihara are regarded as something of a treasure. According to Simonas, the most valuable lesson to take away from Sugihara House is that indifference is not an option. He believes that everyone is faced with choices. Sugihara had to choose between turning people away or issuing them with visas. For the Jews he helped, it was the difference between life and death. Simonas believes the museum is important because it preserves history and pays tribute to an outstanding individual. Sugihara

Sugihara was an exceptionally open-minded man who valued foreign ideas, religion, philosophy and language. saved more Jewish lives than any other individual during the war. Simonas and his small team have made it their mission to find sponsors so the museum can be maintained and kept opened. There may not be much to see at Sugihara House but that is beside the point. The same is true of the Vincent Van Gog Museum, a small, bare room above the restaurant Auberge Ravoux in northern France which nonetheless attracts thousands of visitors arrive every year. Sugihara’s story is arguably more fascinating and certainly more important. Sugihara’s office has been reconstructed so that it is the same as it was in 1939. It allows people to relive that time and feel something of what Sugihara must have felt as he frantically tried to help the vast numbers of people flocking to him for visas. The many relatives of those he saved are among those who visit the museum so they can give thanks and pay their respects. Death Chiune Sugihara died at the age of 86 in 1986. His wife, Yukiko, passed away 22 years later. The person who risked everything to help others was once asked why he did so. He replied: “They were human beings and they needed help. I may have had to disobey my government but if I hadn’t, I would have been disobeying God.” Sugihara was a truly religious man who believed in a universal God for all. To his everlasting credit, he saved 6,000 lives. Sugihara House Museum Vaižganto St. 30, Kaunas

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Photo by A.Šileikytė

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Our Recommendations & Best-loved Places

DINE RESTAURANT One of our favourite restaurants in Vilnius is distinguished for its constantly calm atmosphere and delightfully friendly staff. It’s only been open for a year but this is already a firm favourite among local epicures. We especially love the "live" menu, which is always special as it changes every day depending on what produce is available and in season. Head chef Egidijus Lapinskas is a master at combining the classic with the innovative. You’ll be sure to be both pleasantly surprised and tantalized by what he conjures up. The co-owner and sommelier Arminas Darasevičius is the mastermind behind their wine list. No novel-sized menus but a small range of lovingly made dishes is the way to go.

This issue we concentrate exclusively on fine dining. We want to recommend you the very best places so you can sample the heights of Lithuanian cuisine. As autumn is all about treating ourselves to good food and warm emotions, a pleasant evening at the best restaurants is virtually a rite for this season. We will definitely be enjoying a few evenings out so we can relish the inventive creations of the city’s best chefs. Just don’t forget to book in advance!

Photos courtesy of Dine Restaurant

Fine Dining Restaurants

Gedimino Ave. 35, Vilnius +370 672 23272 facebook.com/pages/Dine-restoranas MON-FRI: 11:30-22:00 SAT:12:00-22:00

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TELEGRAFAS

Sweet Root has taken Lithuanian cuisine and reinvented it so that it is worthy of comparison with the very best food in Europe. Its secret is simple; it uses local and seasonal produce and seasons it with a lavish dash of culinary philosophy. The quality of the food is simply outstanding and the ambiance is coolly laidback. In the short time that it has been open, Sweet Root has become synonymous with class and good taste (minus the old school pretensions that used to invariably accompany fine dining). Sweet Root is a welcome example of how far Lithuanian cuisine has come in recent years. It is distinctly, uniquely Lithuanian but would be an asset for any city.

Restaurant Telegrafas is located opposite Cathedral Square in the very heart of Vilnius Old Town. With its refined interior and incredibly classy menu, it is the perfect place for those looking to dine in an elegant atmosphere while enjoying the best in European gastronomy. Guests can expect an innovative menu that is influenced by both local and foreign specialties. The service, needless to say, is of the very highest standard and the wine list is a work of art in itself. Guests may be intrigued to try modern reworkings of traditional Lithuanian dishes. Telegrafas makes for an unforgettable experience whatever you choose; it is certainly one of the most distinguished places in town and looks set to be around for a very long time.

Photos courtesy of Telegrafas

Photos courtesy of Sweet Root/Sarune Zurba Photo

SWEET ROOT

UĹžupio St.Â 22, Vilnius +370 685 60767 www.sweetroot.lt TUE-SAT: 18:00-22:00

Universiteto St. 14, Vilnius +370 5 2201600 Breakfast: MON-FRI 7:00-10:30, SAT-SUN: 7:00-11:30 Lunch everyday: 12:00-15:00 Dinner everyday: 18:30-22:30 Good Mood Travel Magazine

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Photo by A.Šileikytė

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Try This! MERKINĖ: A DAY WITH CLAY

New place to visit from September Photos by A.Šileikytė

By Milda Mizarienė

On your way to Druskininkai or other places in Dzūkija region, don’t forget to stop by the town of Merkinė. Merkinė is not only breathtakingly beautiful but also offers a truly unique attraction. This September, the ceramics workshop and centre of traditional Dzūkija crafts, Vienaragių šilas, opened its doors to visitors. Our photographer Agnė, who has spent many summers in Merkinė, says it’s an exceptional place: you can learn about ancient Lithuanian ceramics, see the production process up close and even try your own hand at it. »»»

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You can learn about the ancient Lithuanian ceramics, see the production process up close, and try your own hand at it, too. The first to greet you at the entrance to the quaint little house they have decorated with their own hands are the centre’s hosts Džiugas and Laima (whose names, incidentally, are derived from the Lithuanian džiugesys and laimė, which mean joy and happiness – a good omen!). Their aim, in their own words, is to preserve and promote the traditional crafts of Dzūkija region and pass them on to the next generation. The centre, of which Džiugas is a

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founder, now offers educational activities so visitors can both watch the craftsmen at work and try a little craftwork themselves. Eager beginners are given space to practise. Traditional decorative practises can also be seen: visitors learn how clay can be used to make natural colouring and see ceramic pieces decorated with ancient Lithuanian symbols. The shape and ornamentation of each piece is in strict accordance with ancient tradition. Džiugas Petraitis, the youngest craftsman in Merkinė to master black ceramics, shows visitors the traditional techniques and process for making black and leaven ceramics and explains the secrets of pot throwing. In the shade of the centre’s yard stand three furnaces: a blast furnace, a furnace for leaven ceramics, and a furnace for black

The local clay has a distinct chestnut shade, which makes ceramic pieces slightly darker in colour, a feature most noticeable in the deep dark colour of black ceramics. ceramics. Black ceramics is what makes Merkinė particularly famous. Although pottery fully developed in Merkinė in the 13th century, and traditions of the craft go back for centuries, black ceramics did not become widespread until the first half of the 20th century. When it did, however, Merkinė quickly became the centre of black ceramics in Lithuania. The tradition has survived to this day: black ceramics is still made in the

neighbouring villages of Zakavoliai, Pelekiškės and Maksimoniai. The reason for the popularity of pottery in Merkinė is simple: the soil there is rich in clay. The local clay has a distinct chestnut shade, which makes ceramic pieces slightly darker in colour, a feature most noticeable in the deep dark colour of black ceramics. That is not the only advantage – local clay is also handy as it requires lower temperatures for firing. The centuries-old Lithuanian traditions and customs that come alive at Vienaragių šilas make Merkinė well worth a visit; that and the warm welcome you will surely receive from the craftsmen who speak several languages and are only too happy to demonstrate their skills.

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Photo by A.Šileikytė

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Exploring Lithuania

VILNIUS THROUGH THE EYES OF THE TALKING STATUES

Text & Photos by Evaldas Činga

There are many ways to get to know Vilnius – you could read a tourist guide or talk to someone who’s already been there – but there is nothing quite like hearing about it from the founder himself, Grand Duke Gediminas. Or the symbol of Užupis, the Angel. Or the Mermaid of the river Vilnia. No, this is not a mistake – the statues of Vilnius can really talk and tell you things you’d never find in a tourist guide or hear from other travellers. »»»

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Grand Duke Gediminas

Užupis Angel

The City Gatekeeper

Laurynas Stuoka-Gucevičius

The Mermaid

Romain Gary

Kristijonas Donelaitis

Taras Shevchenko

Frank Zappa

The Lamplighter

Tsemakh Shabad (Doctor Ouch)

Inscriptions honouring the victims of the Soviet occupation

Adomas Mickevičius

Barbora Radvilaitė

Žemaitė

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HEAR THE TALKING STATUES Download the map of the Talking Statues Vilnius here: www.mmcentras.lt/9

Choose and find one out of the fi!een talking statues. Find the blue tag and choose the most convenient way to hear the statue talking: QR - download a free QR scanner from the internet, if you still do not have it on your phone (eg., i-nigma, Unitag, QR droid); turn it on and scan the QR code. URL - type the internet address indicated below the QR code. NFC - Turn on the NFC function on your smartphone and swipe the phone on the NFC mark on the tag. Choose the language and answer the phone*.

* The mobile internet data will be used (up to 10 Mb)

Vilnius Talking Statues is an interactive project that offers a unique perspective of the city for citizens and guests alike. Interested passers-by can get a call on their smartphone from 15 statues located around the Old Town. Most statues speak Lithuanian and English; others, as historical personalities of a multicultural city, speak their own languages. Tsemakh Shabad (prototype of the famous fictional character Doctor Ouch) speaks Yiddish, a language rarely heard in Vilnius nowadays, while the boy with the shoe on the corner of J.Basanavičius and Mindaugas streets – that is, a young Romain Gary – speaks French, the language of his world-renowned books. The

poet Taras Shevchenko speaks not only English and Lithuanian, but his native Ukrainian as well. The 15 Talking Statues of Vilnius represent different periods of the city’s history as well as different nationalities, ethnicities, and cultures. The texts were written by some of Lithuania’s most prominent contemporary writers and recorded in the voices of famous actors, singers and public figures, lending the statues their own distinct, original personalities. So who better to be your guide to the secrets of Vilnius? To hear the statue’s story, simply scan the QR code or NFC tag and wait for the incoming call; then, choose a language and answer the phone.

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Photo by A.Šileikytė

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Meet the Locals! For this issue we pay a visit to Užupis together with the guide gabija, who introduces her artist friend edita and enjoys an inspiring few hours in her beautiful gallery. gabija shares their fascinating talk with our readers.

ARTIST EDITA SUCHOCKYTĖ: UŽUPIS IS ETCHED IN MY HEART By Gabija Lunevičiūtė

Photos by A.Šileikytė

Any of the roads crossing the seven bridges over the river Vilnelė will eventually lead you to the Užupis Angel, looming large in one of the most original neighbourhoods in Vilnius, and silently observing its inhabitants and the river as they flow past. A stone’s throw from the Angel you’ll find the residence and workplace of Edita Suchockytė. She believes Užupis is a place where art, and not commerce, thrives – and that’s what makes it so special.

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Instead of going off to see the world, I saw the world coming to me. the worlD on her Doorstep “Visitors sometimes expect to see artists painting in the streets, easels put out in the courtyards. But all that is usually just for show, a commerce thing, and Užupis is not like that,” Edita explains. “For the most part, Užupis is home to small boutiques and numerous artists. We all know each other, we wave hello to each other across the street. Only after moving here did I realise what a great choice it was.” The choice to have her new home and gallery in Užupis, Edita says, was good for other reasons: since she first moved to the neighbourhood four years ago, she has been visited by people from all over the world. “I was a bit overwhelmed by it all – instead of going off to see the world, I saw the world coming to me. It’s an indescribable feeling; going about your everyday life, but feeling as if you’re circling the globe.” The artist sees the idea of the Republic of Užupis, »»»

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its constitution, president and other elements, as a game, a playful invention which creates the special ambience of the place and makes it so easy to live and work there. The beauty of neighbouring Vilnius only adds to it as well. “Every day I go for a walk in the Old Town. I like to leave the study and see the marvellous towers of St Anne’s, St Bernardines, St Michael’s. I am happy to be able to live and work here, to go for a walk here, and see all this beauty, whatever the season. I find it easier to work in a beautiful place, and I see beauty all around – even the crumbling corners are bewitching.” the art of etching When guests enter Edita’s gallery, pleasantly cool in summer and with a cosy fire on chilly autumn days, they usually spend a few minutes examining the paintings and graphics before remarking: “That’s beautiful. But how do you do it?” They are referring to etching, one of Edita Suchockytė’s favourite techniques and one that’s been around since the 16th century. She also applies drypoint and sometimes paints. “Ninety five per cent of visitors end up listening to stories about which graphics techniques I use, and then I show them how to engrave lines on a metal

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plate, and how to later press it on paper. I’m glad to see so many curious people, eager to learn something new, and I enjoy talking about what is so beautiful and dear to me,” the artist explains. It’s not quite as simple as it sounds, though. Etching is a long and complex procedure. First, the etched plate is immersed in acid to produce finely indented lines. Ink is then applied to the lines (but wiped from the surface). Next, the plate is passed through a printing press to transfer the ink onto paper. It is demanding work that requires more skill and knowledge than mere drawing. keeping it real “Some people like using ink on paper, while others prefer watercolours,” Edita explains. “I simply enjoy engraving a plain metal plate and transforming it into something beautiful. Then I can apply ink, press it on paper and create something new altogether. It requires a lot of knowledge – it’s so much more than just being able to draw. You can press the same etching several times and get quite a different result.” More often than not, Edita knows where her paintings and graphics end up. Their new owners send photographs of them, with some coming from as far afield as Australia, the USA and Pakistan. The

best part, Edita says, is knowing someone cares for her work. “When my work is taken abroad, I always hope it will find a place for itself and be happy. In those photos, it’s so good to see that the people tried to find a place where it would be in harmony with the surroundings, the furniture, the crockery; sometimes you notice they put a plant next to it. It’s as if they’re talking to each other.” At the moment, it’s mostly women gazing out of the frames in Edita’s gallery. Joyful, solemn, beautiful (or not), nude or in rippling dresses, surrounded by people, or feathers, or dragonflies. A few men are there, too; men, children and little devils. “Since I was a girl I loved seeing people in art. Even when I create a grotesque human figure, I see beauty in its ugliness. I never get tired of people. Each time I draw a woman’s face, I feel as if it is the first time,” Edita explains. “In total, I’ve made about 150 large metal plates that I really like, and I feel eager to make more. It’s not for the money. If I wanted, I could continue passing the ones I’ve got through the press. But I’d rather create something new and let people see it. I don’t want to have agents either because chatting with the people who come to my gallery is like enjoying a huge slice of delicious cake – I wouldn’t want to just give that up!”

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Photo by A.Šileikytė

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Gifts and souvenirs: our recommendations What gifts you should bring home from Lithuania These are some original and delightful Lithuanian souvenir options. We help you to find the perfect gifts and souvenirs to capture the best of Lithuania! We’ve put a lot of thought and care into our recommendations so that you don't waste your money on trite touristy stuff.

Natural mineral water VYTAUTAS Once you’re rested and refreshed after a stay in Lithuania’s mineral water resorts, you can bring back a little something for your loved ones’ health too. Vytautas is a natural mineral water packed with valuable minerals, so when you’re feeling tired and unwell, or stress begins to take its toll, Vytautas is there for you. Vytautas mineral water will also help you regain your strength on a hard morning after a fun night. In fact, Vytautas has more minerals than any other mineral water in the Baltics. Vytautas mineral water is the first and oldest mineral water in Lithuania, extracted in Birštonas since 1924.

From 0,37 €

Supermarkets/shops all around Lithuania

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NYTYS textile – scarfs for a chilly autumn During the summer we enjoyed Nytys linen scarfs, and this autumn we return to them for their woollen and wool-and-linen shawls. Soft and cosy, these shawls are hot off the loom. They’re great for cold and drizzly autumns when you want to bundle yourself up in something snug and cosy. The weaver Virginija only makes fabric from traditional fibres, and all her scarfs are hand-woven using authentic wooden looms. The natural fabric and high quality of these handmade shawls makes them extremely popular in Japan and valued by fashion collectors all around the world.

60,00 €

V.Mykolaičio-Putino St. 5, Vilnius

BLACK RYE BREAD If you’re looking for souvenirs, black rye bread is always a great choice – not least because of the attention and curious questions you’re bound to receive. Lithuanian black rye bread is recognized and protected by the EU. It is an authentic Lithuanian product and a surprising discovery for the gastronomically curious (“So it’s not sweet?” “Isn’t that some sort of cake?” “What do you eat it with?”) We eat it every day, with butter, skilandis, cheese, honey or sometimes just by itself. And when we go abroad, black bread is what we miss the most.

Various prices

Supermarkets/shops all around Lithuania

A dress for the little romantic from DREAMSKI A pretty, snug and practical gift for your little princess from Lithuania. The clothes are made from thick stretchy cotton with a soft underside and decorated with floral patterns using certified safe water-based silk screen printing, which is both water and heat resistant. We choose Dreamski for our children for its fun patterns, high quality, natural fabrics and longevity. Dreamski does comfortable classics – with a twist.

22,75 € Find different outlets at: dreamski.lt

Wool slippers from MY LITHUANIAN HOME Wool slippers are felted using chemically unprocessed, natural and unbleached homemade wool. Any size is available on special order.

60,00 € Find different outlets at: mlnshop.com Good Mood Travel Magazine

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Photo by A.Šileikytė

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Leisure tips

EXPLORING THE MARKETS OF VILNIUS By Peter Walsh

For autumn fruit & original gifts Photos by A.Šileikytė

There is no better way to feel the pulse of a city than by exploring its markets. Vilnius has everything from thriving farmers’ markets to bustling flea markets to an all-night flower market. They are wonderfully colourful and friendly places where old and young alike love to hunt down a bargain or buy a load of in-season fruit. The great thing about markets in Vilnius is that they cross all social lines – everyone loves to use them. Good Mood Travel Magazine has prepared a tour of the best markets in Vilnius so you can experience them for yourselves.

HAlėS MArket Located close to the central train and bus station, this is the most famous market in the city. Its grandiose main building was built in 1906 and is a fine example of the city’s unique turn-of-the-century architecture (subtly elegant, slightly Gothicky). It’s a great place to sample local produce, meat, fish and dairy products. Locally grown fruit and vegetables often compete against Polish produce but Lithuanians generally like to support their own when it comes to their fruit ‘n’ veg. There are numerous kiosks selling tacky clothes and kitsch ornaments which always make me smile. In short, Halės Market will give you a rough insight into mainstream tastes. But it is an excellent place for local food (the produce literally travels from the countryside to the market every day) and there are some souvenir stalls aimed at the many tourists who drift in there. A dizzying, fascinating experience where raw market culture meets sterile modern management and organization techniques. Address: Pylimo St. 58 Open: TuE - FRI 07:00–17:00, SAT - SUN 07:00–15:00

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KalvariJų Market For a really authentic market experience, go to the wonderful, sprawling Kalvarijų Market. It’s a little way out of the centre – about a 15-minute walk from the Green Bridge – but is worth the effort. It is mainly an outdoor market with long rows of covered stalls selling local fruit and vegetables but there are several large pavilions specializing in meat, fish and dairy products. Hipsters, pensioners, the nouveau riche, regular working people – they all come here to do their food shopping. It isn’t really any cheaper than supermarkets but it is infinitely more enjoyable. Kalvarijų is a somewhat labyrinthine place where you find pretty much everything; kitchen utensils, gardening tools, flowers, old books, underwear, cheap clothes, furniture. There is a flea market at the edge of the complex where people lay out their goods on the side of the road and old ladies give away cute puppies from their dog’s latest litter. There are also a couple of old-fashioned bars where the wizened workers go for a cup of tea or a well-deserved shot. But the authentic charm of Kalvarijų may well go the way of Halės – several state-of-the-art new kiosks have been installed and the market has plans to modernize. Go see it in all its tumbledown glory while you still can. Address: Kalvarijų St. 61 Open: Tue - Sun 07:00–16:00

Tymas Market Located in Užupis (see the article in this issue) and on the periphery of the Old Town, this is the place to go for food-lovers. It specializes in locally grown, lovingly produced food; you’ll find all sorts of (in-season) vegetables, fruit, meat, poultry, fish, bread, milk, oil, honey products, vegetarian dishes, ecological coffee, eggs and sweets. The market consists of sturdy wooden stalls that represent the traditional values on display here and the vendors are a friendly bunch who are only too happy to talk about their methods of production or merely chat about the weather. The prices are slightly more expensive than conventional markets and the regulars tend to be well-off and environmentally conscious. Address: Aukštaičių St./ Maironio St. Open: Thu 10:00–16:00, Sat 10:00–14:00

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Vilnius Collectors Club The Vilnius Collectors Club has grown to such an extent in recent years that it attracts sellers and aficionados from far beyond Lithuania. Located in and around the imposing Trade Union Palace on the top of Tauras Hill (Taurakalnis), it is a treasure trove of old, beautiful and useless objects. Whether it is an old man trying to cash in on some old Soviet knickknacks or a serious numismatologist selling valuable coins, the sellers tend to be older and there is a pleasingly dignified air about them as if this motley market has given them a new lease on life. Among the many things on sale here, the most common are: coins, banknotes, stamps, postcards, vintage dinnerware, furniture, medals, military insignia, silverware, porcelain, household appliances, watches, musical records, paintings, ornaments and lots of rusty tools and utensils. The sellers love talking and will gladly tell you the entire history of whatever object catches your interest. It is also worth coming to for the spectacular surroundings: the view from the top of the hill offers one of the most impressive panoramas of the city. There is also a café in the Trade Union Palace and the surrounding neighbourhood is one of my favourite parts of the city (not many tourists venture there). A fascinating and historically illuminating experience. Address: The Trade Union Palace, Tauras Hill (Taurakalnis) Open: Sat 08:00–12:00

Flower market This has the distinction of being the only all-night flower market in Vilnius, which surely says something about Lithuanians’ love of flowers and the important role they play in a wide range of social situations. I’m not sure who, exactly, really needs to buy roses at 4 a.m. but clearly someone does otherwise why would the market work all night? Perhaps it exists to facilitate midnight trysts and romantic nocturnal visits. But by day, at least, it caters to the vast numbers of people who daily give flowers for birthdays and other occasions. Address: J. Basanavičiaus St. 42 Open: 24 hours

Cheese Market Held every Sunday at the popular salad and soup restaurant, Mano Guru (an old favourite among local food lovers), this is one of only two cheese markets in the city (the other is at Tymas Market). It is a welcome chance to try and buy cheeses directly from Lithuanian cheese-makers and to discuss the merits of their products. There is certainly an impressive range on offer: blue cheese, cottage cheese, curd cheese, sweet milk cheese, with the cheeses all made from sheep, cow and goat’s milk. Lithuanians are ardent cheese lovers and the country is quickly developing a uniquely local but sophisticated cheese culture. Kmynukai, small dried pieces of cheese seasoned with cumin, make for an excellent beer snack. But the most typically Lithuanian cheese is made from curd and comes in an array of varieties. It’s “live”, according to its makers, because it is unpasteurized and is made according to a very labour-intensive process. This is recommended for the gastronomically curious. Address: Vilniaus St. 22/1 Open: Sun 10:00–13:00

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Lazdynų Pelėda Square Flea Market This is an intriguing little flea market that always tends to throw up a pleasant surprise or two. The stuff on sell ranges from the beautiful to the bizarre, although a lot of it tends to be Soviet-era household goods and ornaments. For example, one seller regularly has a fascinating selection of toy cars based on real Soviet models – an exotic gift idea if ever there was one. There are also a lot of interesting postcards of Soviet-era paintings. But you never really know what you will find as the sellers are an eclectic bunch. Indeed, the market doesn’t keep regular hours but depends on the whims of the Lithuanian climate. In summer it is pretty crowded but in autumn it depends on how dry and warm the weather is. The market itself is in a beautiful and rather overlooked corner of the Old Town and there are several excellent antique shops adjoining the square on Visų Šventųjų and Arklių streets. Address: Lazdynų Pelėda Square Open: Sat - Sun, 10:00–14:00

Blusturgis Flea Market In summer this lively flea market is held in the courtyard of Mokytojų namai but in the autumn and winter it relocates to a rather fashionable club in the city centre close to the river. It is popular with young people and it is not hard to see why; it is a great place for finding unusual clothes, vinyl records, books, handmade jewellery and all sorts of other odds and ends. Most of the people who go seem to treat it more as a social event rather than an actual market and there is a satisfying air of disregard for commerce and market logic. Feel free to haggle. Address: Šokbaris, Šermukšnių St. 4A Open: Sat 12.00–16.00

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Photo by A.Šileikytė

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Get in a good mood

November 16-22

Vilnius FEEL LIKE LITHUANIAN ROYALTY DURING A FEAST OF GOOD FOOD

By Ieva Lučinskytė

Photos courtesy of Time/Dine restaurants

From wine enthusiasts to foodies or anyone just wanting to spice up their cold November days in the city of Vilnius, gourmet week 2015 is not an event to be missed. It is a week that highlights the culinary culture of Lithuania’s capital city and is the ideal time to tantalise your tastebuds and experience fine dining at pocket-friendly prices.

....Chef Egidijus Lapinskas

and sommelier Arminas Darasevicius (Time and Dine) advise people to visit their restaurants during Gourmet Week as they will cook up something truly special to showcase their restaurants.

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....The festival is a joy for food

aficionados and a great opportunity to explore the best that the Lithuanian culinary scene has to offer.

Eglė Ližaitytė, the managing director of the Lithuanian Hotels and Restaurants Association is one of the Gourmet Week organisers along with the Lithuanian Association of Chefs and LITEXPO exhibition Baltgastro teams. She sees Gourmet Week as a special event for Vilnius. The week-long food festival is an ongoing feast for the soul which showcases different restaurants such as Soul&Pepper, Telegrafas, California, Čiop Čiop, Time, Dine, Ertlio namas, Belgai, Ramada Imperial, Salvete and many others. They will all have specially designed menus at attractive prices to celebrate Gourmet Week. The festival is a joy for food aficionados and a great opportunityto »»» Good Mood Travel Magazine

Photo courtesy of Ertlio namas

....Ertlio namas is inspired by ancient Lithuanian cuisine and old aristocratic books that reveal the secrets of some extraordinary old recipes. explore the best that the Lithuanian culinary scene has to offer. Award-winning restaurants and their chefs are already working on the Gourmet Week menus and anticipating the festival with huge excitement. Vilnius held the first ever Gourmet Week in 2014 and it was a resounding success. That is why Eglė and her team are determined to put on an even better show for food-lovers this year. The festival not only allows people to explore food but also encourages them to discover movies, nightlife and other festive events. Throughout the week, restaurants will offer set prices for their menus. For instance, a 3-course meal (excluding drinks) will be 10

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or 20 Euros. According to Eglė, having fixed prices allows food enthusiasts to better enjoy their meals and try out new restaurants without worrying about the bill. She wants people to enjoy and share the experience of discovering great new food. Lithuanian food culture tends towards large portions with a variety of dishes which are often shared amongst those sitting around the table. That is why people sometimes feel tricked when they see the relatively tiny portions served up in more gourmet establishments. Gourmet Week is a chance for people to learn about fine dining and that food is not just about filling a hole but about discovering exquisite new taste sensations and enjoying and appreciating the hard work that goes into each lovingly made dish. Chef Egidijus Lapinskas and sommelier Arminas Darasevičius are the respective owners of the Time and Dine restaurants. I met with them to discuss Gourmet Week and what it means to them. While talking to the charismatic

pair in the early hours of the morning, I noticed around 6 to 8 cooks in the Time restaurant already prepping for lunch and dinner. “In my kitchen, you have to be fast and know how to work under pressure. We are working with the most modern technology there is to keep products fresh as long as we can and that’s not easy. We also make all the necessary ingredients ourselves, including everything from oils to sausages,” explained Egidijus. Time is celebrating its third year in business while Dine is only a year old. They are certainly high-end restaurants – their food is simply out of this world. One of the guiding principles of both restaurants is to serve only natural and organic food to customers. When I asked what their special menu for Gourmet Week will offer, the experienced and creative chef said that his menu is always special as it changes every day depending on what produce is available and in season. The sommelier Arminas, who is the mastermind behind their wine list, explained that Dine will also

have a special menu for Gourmet Week at a set price of 20 Euros. Both Egidijus and Arminas believe that having a specific selection of food gives better quality to the dishes than having an extensive mix of everything. They both advise people to visit their restaurants during Gourmet Week as they will cook up something truly special to showcase their restaurants. There is something for everyone during Gourmet Week. Movie enthusiasts can enjoy a unique dinner prepared by the Italian chef, Gian Luca, who has worked in Michelin star restaurants and now owns Kulinarijos studija. You can watch a movie in a boutique with a cosy interior room in Forum Cinemas and indulge in a private dinner made by hautecuisine chefs. Gian Luca will be involved in Gourmet Week for the

first time and his idea of intimate dinners is an integral part of the celebration. Another excited newbie is the restaurant, Ertlio namas. It only opened a few weeks ago and is inspired by ancient Lithuanian cuisine and old aristocratic books that reveal the secrets of some extraordinary old recipes. In a world where there is little novelty left, their menu should be especially original and interesting. Gourmet Week is not only about gorging on good food, however. It is also a chance for people to educate themselves. On the November 21, Rimvydas Laužikas, an expert in historical cuisine, will be giving lectures at the Palace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania about why and how mediterranean cuisine is closely related to Lithuania’s culinary

Photo courtesy of Kulinarijos studja

.... Gian Luca will be involved in Gourmet Week for the first time and his idea of intimate dinners is an integral part of the celebration.

traditions. Lithuanian food does indeed share some similarities with Mediterranean cuisine. The Grand Duchess of Lithuania, Bona Sforza, came to Lithuania in the 16th century from Italy and soon after became a veritable epicure. She brought cucumbers, tomatoes, potatoes, beans and many other vegetables to the country, which are now staples of our diet. Intrigued by the story? Then we strongly recommend you pay a visit to Rimvydas Laužikas’s lecture. Gourmet Week will also reflect the history of food. There will be an abundance of delicacies and wine from around the world. So come dine like a Lithuanian grand duke or duchess during Gourmet Week. You will certainly feel like royalty after enjoying so much great food!

LIST OF PARTICIPATING RESTAURANTS: 1. Time 2. Dine 3. Ramada Imperial 4. Gastronomika 5. Žuvinė 6. Salvete 7. Salvete City 8. Telegrafas 9. Soul&Pepper 10. Strange Love 11. Ti'ana 12. Sweet Root 13. Batoras 14. Astoria 15. Esse 16. Čiop Čiop 17. Šiaurės Jūra 18. Chef 2 Food House 19. Paukščių takas 20. Ertlio namas 21. Belgai 22. Pankolis 23. Pankolio brolis 24. Lokys

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Photo by A.Šileikytė

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Event calendar. Autumn Capital Days Festival Location: Vilnius Time: 2015 09 04 – 2015 09 06 Description: The Annual Capital Days Festival is the largest festival in Vilnius and has been held since 1993. There is an abundance of things to see and do, such as free concerts, theatre shows, crafts and food stalls and art exhibitions. The festival takes place in the largest public spaces across the city: Vingis Park, Cathedral and City Hall squares and Gediminas Avenue.

St. James Sacred Choral Music Festival Location: Vilnius Time: 2015 09 06 – 2015 10 04 Description: The state choir Vilnius is one of the oldest and best choirs in Lithuania. The festival has been going since 2011 and has quickly gained a reputation as a showcase for the very best in choral music. Each year it attracts more and more music lovers from around the world.

Sea day, Unity Day of the Balts Location: Šventoji Time: 2015 09 19 Description: The Unity Day of Balts celebration is an important day for Lithuania and Latvia as it shows the strong sense of unity between the two Baltic States. Various events and activities will be held at different locations around the town.

Nations' Fair Location: Vilnius Time: 2015 09 18 – 2015 09 20 Description: From September 18 to 20, Vilnius will be abuzz with the Nations’ Fair. There you can find all sorts of authentic crafts and sample a wide range of national cuisines. Traditional music and dances will be performed on Gediminas Avenue. The Nations’ Fair is all about music, entertainment, food and fun.

Echoes of Serenades Location: Trakai Time: 2015 09 20 Description: The St. Christopher Chamber Orchestra will perform together with actress Lina Budzeikaitė. The concert will take place in the open-air grounds of the historical Trakai Castle and will bring you the best of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Edward Elgar and many other great composers.

Sirenos Location: Vilnius Time: 2015 09 24 – 2015 10 04 Description: “The new reality – the new theatre – for what audience?” is the motto of the SIRENOS festival. The program of the festival is both versatile and educational. It showcases the best in cutting-edge contemporary European and world theatre. Over the six years of its existence, SIRENOS has introduced to Lithuanians the most famous and exciting names in European theatre.

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September Traditional Mushroom Festival Location: VarĖna Time: 2015 09 26 Place: MarciNkonys village, park of VarĖna Description: Each year all mushroom lovers across the country gather on the last Saturday of September to celebrate mushroom festival. A one-day festival of food and family fun. The most important event of the festival is mushroom picking championship in Marcinkonys.

Vilnius Film Shorts Location: Vilnius Time: 2015 10 08 – 2015 10 11 Description: Vilnius Films Shorts is the only international and professional short film festival in Lithuania, and presents new and exciting short films from all over the world.

Apple Fest Location: AnykŠČiai Time: 2015 09 26 Description: People gather together to celebrate the annual Apple Fest in Anykščiai. This lively celebration offers everyone the chance to sample the season‘s apples, pears and apple juice. Local growers happily share their knowledge with guests. Various fun activities, games and musical entertainment will amuse visitors of all ages.

Festival “Palanga Table 2015” Location: Palanga Time: 2015 09 26 Description: This festival is held in honour of International Tourism Day. Each year, the Lithuanian Health union organizes and invites guests to sit at one of the thousand tables and enjoy the vast range of tasty (but healthy) dishes on offer. There are games and dances and the atmosphere is always festive.

Nordic J/c Fencing Championships in ÉpÉe Location: Kaunas Time: 2015 09 26 – 2015 09 27 Description: The Lithuanian Fencing Federation is extremely excited to welcome and host the Nordic Junior and Cadet Fencing Championships in Épée.

Kaunas International Cinema Festival Location: Vilnius, Kaunas Time: 2015 09 30 – 2015 10 11 Description: The Kaunas International Cinema Festival screens feature films, documentaries and short films. The films are all new, critically acclaimed and give a fascinating example of recent trends in world cinema.

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Vilnius Latin American Days “In Latino” Location: Vilnius Time: 2015 10 01 – 2015 10 10 Description: The Latin American festival In Latino invites both foreigners and locals to get acquainted with the colorful way of life in Latin American countries. Natives from those countries now living in Lithuania, together with special guests and Lithuanians who have travelled extensively in South America, will share their knowledge and experiences with audiences. You can see Latin American movies, try national cuisines, hear music and lose yourself to dance. The Latino Festival is always a hit.

Beepositive Location: Vilnius Time: 2015 10 09 – 2015 10 10 Description: Autumn is the time of year when Vilnius becomes a city of light. The International Light Festival BEEPOSITIVE is going to celebrate its fifth anniversary this year. Beautiful light installations designed by local and foreign artists will be on show all around the city. The spectacular installations will be both in the city center and the suburbs of Vilnius.

Shopping night out Location: Vilnius Time: 2015 10 09 Description: Luxury brand outlets, high-street retailers, independent boutiques and bars and restaurants are open all night for one night only. A unique shopping experience.

CSI2*-W and CDI-W Šiauliai Horse Show 2015 Location: Šiauliai Time: 2015 10 09 Description: This international show jumping competition held at Šiauliai Arena is taking place for the third time in a row. Professional riders from Lithuania and abroad will participate.

Vilnius Jazz Location: Vilnius Time: 2015 10 15 – 2015 10 18 Description: Established in 1987, Vilnius Jazz is not only the oldest annual jazz festival in Lithuania but one of the biggest and best. Traditionally, the programme features styles and groups representing all kinds of jazz; standard, blues, bebop, swing, Dixieland, ethno-jazz and much more.

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October

Nickelback “No Fixed Address Tour 2015” Location: Kaunas Time: 2015 10 14 Description: The mainstream Canadian post-grunge rock band will perform in Lithuania for the first time.

Baltic Fashion & Textiles Vilnius 2015 Location: Vilnius Time: 2015 10 15 – 2015 10 17 Description: Baltic Fashion and Textiles Vilnius 2015 is an international fashion, textile and innovations trade fair, which brings together more than 230 participants and over 8,000 visitors. The highlight of the program will be “Vilnius Fashion Conference: Emerging Global Trends“, in which you can hear internationally renowned speakers from Germany, Great Britain and France.

In Bards’ Music Festival “This Is Me” Location: Lithuania Time: 2015 10 19 – 2015 10 24 Description: The international singer-songwriter festival “This is ME” is a unique event that takes place not only in Vilnius, but in other Lithuanian cities, Latvia and Poland. The festival is a great opportunity for young artists to perform their work in front of likeminded audiences.

GAIDA Festival Location: Vilnius Time: 2015 10 23 – 2015 10 31 Description: Founded in 1991, GAIDA is one of the most prestigious and prominent music festivals in Vilnius. It provides a high-profile showcase for many different genres of music, from symphonic concerts, electronic music, sound installations, music theatre, multimedia projects to club events. Most of the main events of the GAIDA festival take place in the major concert halls of Vilnius.

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November SCANORAMA Location: Vilnius, Kaunas, Klaipėda Time: 2015 11 05 – 2015 11 15 Description: SCANORAMA is a hugely popular film festival that focuses solely on European cinema. You can see more than a hundred films by European directors in various genres and formats at different cinemas in the three biggest cities in Lithuania.

Chamber Music Festival Location: Palanga Time: 2015 11 07, 14, 21, 28 Description: Each Saturday throughout November you can enjoy relaxing classical music and escape the chilly weather at Kurhaus Hall.

International Folk Festival “Pokrovskije Kolokola” Location: Vilnius Time: 2015 11 10 – 2015 11 14 Description: This festival boasts some of the best folk groups in Lithuania, including several representing national minorities living in Lithuania. There will also be visiting acts from Georgia, Latvia, Russia, Poland, and Ukraine, among others. They will share their folklore experiences with festivalgoers and invite you to experience their traditional culture.

Mama Jazz Location: Vilnius Time: 2015 11 19 – 2015 11 22 Description: Each year Mama Jazz invites everyone to party and experience everything from all-star projects to live sound for silent cinema. Many young artists participate resulting in some truly extraordinary jazz improvisations.

The Baltic Food and Beverage Exhibition, BAF’2015 Location: Vilnius Time: 2015 11 20 – 2015 11 22 Description: The Baltic Food and Beverage Exhibition BAF is a yearly celebration of food and culture and a business event fostering the idea of food and nutrition philosophy. The exhibition will be held at the Lithuanian Exhibition and Congress Centre, LITEXPO. Other events such as Eko Logika, Winter Bouquet and Vilnius Gastronomy week will bring together all those who are interested in organic households, flowers and discovering the very best food.

INTERNATIONAL ANIMATED FILM FESTIVAL "TINDIRINDIS" Location: Vilnius, Panevėžys, Šiauliai, Kaunas, Nida, Jurbarkas, Klaipėda Time: 2015 11 23 – 2015 11 29 Description: The international festival of animated cartoons “Tindirindis” is a respected forum for non-commercial films. The mission of the festival is to present as wide a range of world animation as possible.

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Photo by A.Šileikytė

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Photo by A.Šileikytė

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Been there, done that! Visitors' Impressions & Recommendations As always, please meet a selection of those who have already visited our country. They gladly agreed to share their personal experiences and recommendations with you. We hope you find them useful.

MARTINA FROM AUSTRIA: There is nothing comparable to Neringa

I remember a night in Vilnius (there is a law that prohibits the sale of alcohol on September 1st from midnight till midnight) as one of the most amazing party nights ever: people shared their drinks, bar owners did not mind people bringing their own drinks. And best of all: we got into talking to so many locals and foreigners, heading from one bar to the next club to the next bar. Such loyalty amongst people who do not know each other at all!

Go to Neringa! It is a must-visit, honestly. It is just soooo beautiful there and there is nothing comparable to it. This thin slip of sand and trees with a backwater on one side and a wide sea on the other side is just remarkable. If you want to give your trip there a certain twist: buy some uninspired German elderly couple who just came to Nida to see Thomas Mann's house and this 80+ Australian couple on the search for their childhood roots a shot of Vodka and enjoy some freshly smoked fish with them in the amazing landscape. It will be an unforgettable memory for all of you.

MARINA FROM GERMANY: Vilnius came across as melancholy, but sincere, a bit vintage but also a bit modern

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I have extremely fond memories of my stay in Kaunas where I stayed with a couch-surfing host. She not only managed to provide a comfy place for me but, what was even more remarkable, introduced me to her varied bunch of friends, who showed me the town's sights and a lot of underground bars. I wouldn't find my way back to any of these venues, but I surely do remember my time in Kaunas as absolutely brilliant. Beware, western European tourists! ATMs in Lithuania function in opposite way: insert card, type code and wanted amount of money, withdraw money, take card back. It made me forget my bank card twice ;-) I also remember a brilliant massage in a former Soviet sanatorium in Druskininkai ̶ it is like a trip back in time ̶ the atmosphere, the style, the building. But so relaxing.

I fell in love with Vilnius instantly! It‘s a very special city with a very special atmosphere. It’s indescribable! The city centre is gorgeous! The Literatų street, the Republic of Užupis… In Vilnius I instantly felt like at home und a bit like in my childhood… I have visited many cities, but Vilnius is not to compare to any of them. Vilnius came across as melancholy, but sincere, a bit vintage but also a bit modern.

I was very positively surprised because of very low traffic in the capital. I am used to the traffic in Spanish cities, it’s much more busy. I would recommend to visit the capital Vilnius and to walk around in the old town. Of course, the best places to socialize are in Vilnius. I liked some pubs (Portobello, Republic, Sarcozy). People in Vilnius are very friendly and lovely. Lithuanian food is not bad, but I definitely love Spanish cuisine. But the beer is amazing, the best I have ever tried! ANTONIO FROM SPAIN: The best beer I have ever tried

Lithuania for me seems very modern and European country. I was also surprised that people dress in a very elegant way. The beauty and sympathy of Lithuanian women ̶ is unique and I’ve never experienced it before, it’s worth visiting.

Almost a year ago before I arrived in Lithuania, I remember myself thinking about so many things like, how will it be? Will I like it? If the sky always dark and everyone is blond? So after a period time, I can say that my biggest impression is that people here are so nice and friendly, the place where I live in the center is very authentic, everything is near by, I am passing by the same people everyday, even that a lot of them I can just recognize and I don’t really know. It feels like a big family.

from the Old town of Kaunas that it is nice sometimes to get lost at those small streets. Reminds me of Italy. If you like burgers and meat I would recommend going to “Tex Mex by Talutti” in Laisvės alėja. For the nightlife, which is better in the weekend, I would recommend to start at the main bar of Laisvės alėja called “Republic” and later on to continue partying at the club called “Dejavu”. After all it would be better to have a small snack in a fast food restaurant before you go to sleep.

My recommendations are more about Kaunas: first of all I would recommend to have a walk (hopefully sunny day) on the main boulevard Laisvės alėja (the longest boulevard in Europe, around 3 km) that ends not so far

It’s worth visiting because of Cepelinai, the amount of beautiful blond women and how cold can it be during the winter ̶ these are things that are unique in Lithuania and that I haven’t experienced nowhere before.

ALON FROM ISRAEL: People here are so nice and friendly

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