“Together with God heading to the infallible hope�!
VISITING A L BANI A Welcome and enjoy your stay!
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Albania, the country that welcomes visitors with its nature, beautiful coastline, cultural heritage, hospitality and flavorful cuisine. While in Albania you will experience an unforgettable vacation. Albania offers you a full touristic product. With a picturesque landscape in almost all its touristic destinations you can easily explore mountain hiking, valleys, waterfalls, national parks, lakes, archeological sites, museum cities and castles. A visit to Albania means that you’ll return home both relaxed and energized at the same time.
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TABLE of
CONTENT
Tirana City Break Elbasani Shkodra Lezha Kruja - celebrating Albania’s greatest national hero Skanderbeg Holidays at the Adriatic Coast Exploring the Ionian Coast Llogara Palasa Dhërmiu Vunoi Himara Qeparoi Borshi Albania’s UNESCO cultural World Heritage Sites Butrinti, a microcosm of Mediterranean history Berati, the 2400 year old town Stroll around the UNESCO - “town of 1000 windows” Wine and Berati olives Gjirokastra - Chronicle in Stone Musical encounters between two worlds Follow on a city walk Discover Albania’s unique music: iso-poliphony Via Egnatia - An ancient highway reconnects Albania with its neighbors Apollonia Amantia Pogradeci Korça Voskopoja Dardha Vithkuqi Boboshtica Këlcyra Përmeti Nature & Activities Hiking and Trekking in Albania Northern Albania - the “Accursed Mountains” All the best in one trip - touring Albania Horse riding in Lord Byron’s footsteps map
8 12 14 18 22 26 32 34 36 36 38 39 41 41 46 48 52 53 56 58 60 60 64 66 68 70 71 74 77 78 80 81 82 83 87 90 91 94 98 102
T I R A N A CITY BREAK City breaks in Albania’s capital have become an insider tip with young people due to its bustling nightlife, trendy clubs and bars, uncountable cafés and affordable restaurants and accommodation. The Jazz festival in July, the International Film Festivals (23 – 31 OCT 2013), as well as vanguard events and exhibitions in the multifunctional cultural center Tirana Express stand for some of the reasons to come. More conventional travellers enjoy the various city sightseeing walks, impressive socialist museums, and discover 8
Tirana’s manifold past. Tirana, capital city since 1920, was gradually transformed from a dormant old Ottoman town into a bright capital city under the reign of King Zog. Italian architects redesigned the city, streets were widened and paved, much of the central area was completely rebuild. The monumental center has been called “Scanderbeg Place� arraying most
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of the public buildings around and along the large Boulevard “Dëshmoret e Kombit”. During communist times the Palace of Culture with the Opera house, the National Museum, and the famous monument of Skanderbeg where added giving the historic center of Albania’s capital its current shape. Tirana is simply pleasant to wander around, and to visit some of the museums, galleries or to relax in the Grand Park, together with many local people. Tirana is also an excellent hub for some for some extraordinary nature and cultural experiences in the surroundings. The “Dajti Ekspres”, a cable car, brings visitors from an eastern suburb directly into 10
the Dajti National Park with nice walking trails and tasty restaurants. Petrela, only 15 minutes away, has a well-restored historic center and a castle hosting a restaurant with fantastic view and sunsets. Only 32 km away, worth a day excursion, is the city of Kruja, celebrating Albania’s national hero Skanderbeg and it’s about the same distance to the next costal city, DurrÍsi.
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EL B AS A N I In Roman times, the place was called Scampa, which was depending on Dyrrachium (today DurrĂŤs). The Roman fortress was built during the reign of the Byzantine Emperor Justinian I (483-565). After the invasion of Ottomans, Sultan Muhamet II rebuilt the fortress in 1466 and renamed the town Elbasani. The remains of the castle can be visited as well as the bathhouse of the Turkish period and the museum attached to the fortress. In 2012 the rehabilitation of the ancient Via Egnatia supported by the European Union in the historical center of 12
Elbasan has been finished. In the vicinity of Elbasan, is the village of Bradashesh where still the Roman Road Station of Ad Quintium can be seen. Based on the construction techniques used, the site has been dated back to the 2nd - 4th centuries CE. Excavations are ongoing.
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S HKOD R A Shkodra is one of the oldest cities in Albania, founded in the 4th century B.C. as the center of the Labeat tribe of Illyrians. Shkodra has been occupied several times throughout history: first by the Romans (168 B.C.), then the Serbians (1040), the Venetians (1396), and by the Ottomans (1479). The city returned to Albanian control as the feudal principality of the Balshaj the 14th century and served as the municipal center of the Bushatllinj PashallÍk from 1757 to 1831. Shkodra’s main tourist attraction is Rozafa Castle. Rising majestically upon a rocky hill west of the city, 14
the outcroppings and battlements paint a blazin picture against the setting sun. It is surrounded by the waters of three rivers; Drini, Buna, and Kiri. Like all ancient works, the castle comes with a popular local legend. Rozafa was the name of the bride of the youngest of three brothers who originally built the castle. It reflects the dominance of the Balshaj family but passed through enough other ruling periods that each left their own signs and markings on the grounds, including a distinct Venetian flare, some Ottoman architecture from the 16th and 17th centuries, and even a few modifications from the Bushatllinj family during the 15
18th and 19th centuries. While in Shkodra, you might also want to visit other notable landmarks, such as the city’s History Museum, near the stadium, and the renowned Marubi FototekÍ. Close to the city lies Lake Shkodra, the biggest lake in the Balkans with a surface area of 368 km2 (149 of which are Albanian waters). The lake is notable for its different banks: the southern bank is high and rocky while the northern one is low and marshy. For a leisurely cyclist or driver, two main tourist centers are the towns of Shiroka and Zogaj, located on the shoreline. Famous for their fishing skills, each 16
village hosts restaurants serving the most popular local dish, baked carp. Every August 15th the Catholic pilgrimage of ShĂŤn Rrok, or Saint Rocco, is celebrated in Shiroka. The beach of Velipoja is only 22 km away from the city of Shkodra. The long shoreline is famous for its therapeutic sand and many people have taken to burying themselves in it to relieve bodily aches and pains. Besides swimming and fishing, the surrounding scenery offers many interesting natural objects worth seeing, such as the small island of Franc Joseph on the Buna River, close to the Montenegro border. 17
L E Z HA The city of Lezha is located 47 km south of Shkodra. Another of Albania’s ancient cities, it was first mentioned in historical documents by the name Lissus. In 1398, after the construction of its castle, the city was under direct control of the feudal family of Lekë Dukagjini, but was eventually conquered by soldiers from Venice. The Memorial Grave of Skanderbeg is situated, at the ex-Cathedral of Shën Kolli, where he was buried in 1468. The Castle of Lezha, another Illyrian monument, sits on a hilltop overlooking the city below. Inside the castle, ruins of 18
an Ottoman mosque, a Roman Arch, and an Illyrian Tower all rest together for the ages. Only a few minutes from the city there is the sandy beach of Shëngjini at the foot of Mount Renci. The sunny beach community of Shëngjini holds a long and colorful history, known as both “Cesarea” and
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“Nympheum� in past centuries. It was here that the Roman general Marcus Aurelius embarked with his fleet in order to chase Pompey during the civil war that he and Julius Caesar engaged in. The delta of the Drini River is located nearby, providing an amazing ecosystem becoming more and more of a key attraction for international ecotourism. In the Kune - Vain Natural reserve you van explore approximately 70 species of birds, 22 species of reptiles, 6 species of amphibians, and 13 species of mammals, it is a wide and diverse protected habitat. One of the most pleasant surprises is the sandy island of Kune, which turns into a peninsula 20
depending on the water level. With 227 different kinds of plants growing on the island, Kune’s dense vegetation provides nesting grounds for many birds and consequently, many bird watchers.
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KRUJA Kruja– celebrating Albania’s greatest national hero Skanderbeg High up in the mountains, 32 km north of Tirana, the citadel of Kruja is dramatically set on top of a rocky outcrop with a wall of mountains forming a spectacular backdrop. Albania’s greatest national hero Skanderbeg was born here in 1405; and it is the museum dedicated to his fearless fights against Ottoman invaders that is attracting tens of thousands of Albanians every year. The National Museum “Gjergj Kastrioti Skënderbej” is just 22
behind the citadel’s main gate and was opened 1982. The museum contains exhibits chronicling his life and military exploits, with paintings, armor, and other artifacts from the period. A replica of the hero’s famous goat head-topped helmet is on display; however the original is housed in Vienna. Nearby is the excellent Ethnographic Museum,
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which displays the beautiful interior of a traditional Albanian house around 1800. The house retains the separated sections keeping the menfolk and their guests strictly apart from the family’s rooms; and the caretakers will happily guide you around. Both museums are open all year round, from Tuesday to Sunday. The narrow alleys below the museums lead visitors to some stone houses and courtyards and to the old town Hamam and the Dollma Teke, one of the oldest Bektashi temples in Albania. Leading up to the citadel is the Old Bazaar, which has been completely restored. It is made of two rows 24
of shops, lined on both sides of a cobbled alley with the gutter in the middle. The shops have windows full of antiques, silver filigree jewelry, folk costumes, woven rugs and traditional felt hats. Kruja is a small city with several hotels and restaurants. Best to finish the visit to Kruja in one of the restaurants in the citadel area, each with panoramic views over Kruja, the plains below and to the Adriatic See.
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HOLIDAYS AT THE ADRIATIC COAST Albania’s second largest city Durrësi is a vibrant port and summer beach destination for thousands of Albanians and tourists from neighboring landlocked countries. In former times Dyrrachium was one of the two departure points of the Via Egnatia on the Adriatic Coast. Durrësi is a bustling port city and is well worth visiting for its historical monuments and for the great evening stroll, when the whole town promenades along the seaside boulevard in the evening. It hosts some prominent Roman sites and 26
the biggest Amphitheatre ever built on the Balkans. It had a capacity of over 15,000 spectators and a Latin inscription from the time of Emperor Trajan (91-117 A.D.) reveals that during the inauguration ceremony of the city’s library 12 pairs of gladiators were performing in the theatre. Other important sites from the Roman times are the public baths; the remains of a 15-kilometer long aqueduct build during the reign of Hadrian; and the Byzantine-era walls. Important artifacts, like mosaics and stone sarcophagi, found on the site are exposed in the Archeological Museum in Durres and are covering Ancient Greek, Hellenistic and Roman periods. 27
This is also the place with a rich restaurant and bar scene in addition to the beachfront starting just south of DurrĂŤsi. The long arc of golden sand lined with hotels stretches for several kilometers to Golem and is extremely popular among Albanians. While the extensive beach of Spille in the west of Kavaja has an amazing pine forest near the beach, some beach restaurants and few accommodation facilities, the Karavasta Lagoon National Park near Divjaka is an interesting place for excursions, hiking and bird watching. The lagoon is protected wetlands under the international RAMSAR convention and the most western nestling place of the Dalmatian Pelican. 28
The city of Vlora forms the border between Adriatic and Ionian Coast. Vlora is after DurrÍsi the second largest port in Albania and was also important during the grandeur of Via Egnatia. Vlora is a bustling sea bath and celebrated for the brave fight of its dignitaries for Albania’s independence in 1912. The Independence museum at the port offers interesting guided tours also in English and Italian. The sand beach in the city of Vlora is well maintained and lined with hotel- and
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apartment blocks and many seafood restaurants. It is also the landing area for paragliders flying from Kanine (a close hill-site with a fortress) and place for precision landing of over 100 international pilots during the “Albanian Open�, that takes place every year. In the north the Narta Lagoon beaches display features typically for the Adriatic Sea, shallow water, pine forests and sandy beaches. There are 195 species of waterfowl living in the area and Mediterranean woods cover the tract of land dividing the lagoon from the sea. It’s a good place to observe the seabirds or to fish. The water is full of different kinds of fish, especially eels and bass. The village of Narta stands 30
south of the lagoon on the water’s edge, and is surrounded by low hills covered with vineyards that are used to make one of the best artesian wines in Albania. The lagoon also offers the picturesque view of the village of ZvÍrneci and of the nearby island, which hosts the Byzantine-style Church and the Monastery of Saint Mary. The lagoon ends with the Cape of Treporti, which joins the forest-covered hill to form a beautiful natural ensemble.
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EXPLORING THE IONIAN COAST South of Vlora the coastline turns rockier, interrupted by small gravel beaches in Radhimë and the two-kilometer long beach of Orikum. The whole region is well served with traditional family run hotel - and accommodation facilities and plenty of beachside restaurants. To the west, Vlora’s bay is closed by the peninsula of Karaburun, about 16 km long, which is completely untouched and hosting Albania’s largest cave: 30 meters deep, 18 meters high, and 12 meters wide. 32
The “Cave of Haxhi Ali”, is named after a sailor who sailed into the cave’s waters in the 17th century. From Orikum the road climbs quickly from sea level to the Llogora Pass, 1,027 meter, opening a mind-blowing view at the Albanian Riviera.
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LLOGARA The Llogara National Park lies approximately 40 km south of the city of Vlora. It is situated on the slopes of the Llogara Mountain and covers a surface area of 810 hectares, with elevations ranging from 470 to 2,018 m above sea level. The park combines the beauties of a mountain with a seaside climate. You can enjoy part of its magical beauty while traveling along the VlorëSarandë national highway at Qafa e Llogarasë, 1025 m above sea level. Here, medicinal and decorative plants are interspersed within a forest 34
of pine trees. The park is also home to several animal species. The road twists down the steep mountainside towards DhĂŤrmi with its different beaches: Drymades, Jali, and Gjipe. The Ionian coast is known for its small isolated beaches and deep-sea waters, rocky coves and many caves. Villages are nestled up in the hills or close to the sea and the small fishing harbors.
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PALASA After passing Qafa e Llogarasë on a road that dates back to the time of Pompey, you descend into the Albanian Riviera. This warm Mediterranean zone has nearly 300 sunny days a year, and the average temperature in July is 25°C (77°F). The list of places to visit begins with the beach of Dhraleo (Palasë), known for its clear waters. Pompey and his army stopped at this beach in ancient times, when it was known as Palestra.
DHËRMIU
Dhërmiu is famous for its crystal-clear waters and small,
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intimate pebble beaches, such as Jaliksari, Shkambo, and Gjipea. Situated at the foot of a 70 m cliff, Gjipea is a rare beauty. Close to Dhërmiu is the legendary Cavern of the Pirates. Dhërmiu is a picturesque village thought to have first been inhabited in 49-48 B.C. The village is home to the Monastery of Shën Maria, the Church of Shën Todhri, the Church of the Ipapandia and the Church of Shën Mitri, with its frescos dating from the 12th-14th centuries. The main entertainment options in Dhërmiu are swimming, water sports, and diving. There are many hotels, restaurants, pubs, and discotheques. The restaurants combine traditional and foreign cuisines, and serve many seafood specialties. 37
VUNOI 8 km south of DhĂŤrmiu is the village of Vunoi, which is built on a hill facing the sea and is well known for its traditions and patriotism. Here you can visit old churches like the Church of ShĂŤn Spiridhoni, built in 1778, and the Church of Mesodhia, with paintings from 1783. There are also several architectural landmarks such as the ruins of the House of Odise Kasneci and the tower-like House of Shane Kote. From here, follow the road to the wonderful beach of Jala, whose gulf is distinctive from those in the rest of the Riviera.
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HIMARA Continuing your tour towards the south, you will come across the small city of Himara, which has two neighborhoods: Old Himara, built on the hill, and New Himara, in the gulf of Spile, has five beaches: Filikuri, Spile, Llamani, Potami, and Livadhet. They are all gravel beaches with deep, clear waters. The city comes to life during the summer tourist season, when visitors take up residence in the hotels or in rented houses. Himara is the ancient residence and city of the Illyrian Kaon clan. It was settled in the 5th century B.C. and its name is of PellazgĂŤ (pre-
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Illyrian) origin. There are several religious sites to visit such as the Church of ShĂŤn Maria e Athalit, the Church of Cassiopeia, the Church of All Saints, and the House of Lilo Llazari, which has been turned into a cultural monument. Another site to visit is the Castle of Ali PashĂŤ Tepelena, built on a small peninsula in the tectonic gulf of Porto Palermo. The castle was built in the shape of a triangle and has 20 m high walls. Ali Pasha dedicated this castle to his wife, Vasiliqia. It is said that it was built on top of the ruins of an ancient castle. Himara is particularly noted for its traditional Albanian iso-polyphonic songs (part of UNESCO oral art patrimony). 40
QEPAROI The village of Qeparoi is located close to the gulf of Porto Palermo and has its own distinctive beach. Old Qeparoi, built on the hillside, has several historical sights including the three-story Towers of Ali Pasha, the Monastery of ShĂŤn Dhimitri, and the House of Minella Gjika.
BORSHI The village of Borshi is situated a few hundred meters away from the shore and about 20 minutes
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from Himara. It is the largest beach of the Albanian Riviera and its clear waters stretch for almost 6 km. Several hotels, clubs, discotheques, and restaurants are built along the length of the beach. The hospitality of the villagers and the traditional dish of grilled lamb are distinctive features found in Borshi. There are numerous possibilities for under-water diving as there are opportunities to visit the charming medieval villages with many old frescoed churches, wander through the olive groves of Lukova or drive to the Riviera’s most southern city, Saranda. Inside a horseshoe bay, and barely 10 km from Corfu, Saranda comes with its own intriguing 42
Albanian and Greek cultures. It is a fabulous hub for those looking for an urban base with a diverse accommodation offer, from which to make forays to some of the most diverse sights in Albania. The city of Saranda, 18 km north of Butrinti, is the touristic hub for the region and connects easily to secluded beaches at the Albanian Riviera. Saranda is well known for its sunny weather and has traditionally been the ideal destination for honeymooners and young people. The area round Saranda is blessed with a number of archaeological sites, as the ruins of the 40 Saints Monastery, which denominates the modern city of Saranda, the
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Mespopotam church and the three-angular castle of the Vivari channel. Only 2 km south of Saranda on the top of a high hill is the Lëkursi castle, a nice place for having a tasty meal while enjoying the Ionian’s extraordinary landscape. Other places of interest are the “The Blue Eye” water sources and the ruins of the ancient city Finiq. All along the Albanian Riviera tourists can find small, family run guesthouses, hotels and many apartments and wooden chalets. Fish is fresh every day and the cuisine a delicious fusion of seafood, fish, Italian and Greek cuisine. It only gets busy during few summer weeks, when Albanian tourists come from 44
the cities, although the water is warm from May to late October and the scenery even more stunning painted in springtime and autumn colors. The UNESCO world heritage sites of Butrinti (18 km) and Gjirokastra the “city in stone” (54 km) are in easy reach, the same accounts for the natural monuments “Blue Eye” and Pavllas Valley. Saranda itself has a traffic-free seaside promenade with plenty of cafes, restaurants and bars to stop. On the way to Butrinti the beaches of Ksamili remember the Caribbean because of its powdery white sands and clear waters.
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ALBANIA’S UNESCO CULTURAL WORLD HERITAGE SITES Albanians inherited a rich and diverse culture with Illyrian, Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman elements. The flagships in cultural tourism in Albania are the three World Heritage Sites in Butrinti, Gjirokastra and Berati. Just opposite the island of Corfu and close to the city of Saranda lies Butrinti, a site inhabited since prehistoric times. Butrint has been a Greek colony, a Roman city a Bishopric and a Byzantine administration city. Formerly occupied by the Venetians, it was abandoned in the late
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Middle Ages after marshes formed in the area. The present UNESCO site of Butrint is a repository of classic ruins representing each period in the city’s development. Berati and Gjirokastra are inscribed in the UNESCO list as rare architectural examples typical of the Ottoman period. Intangible heritage from the south, the phenomenon of Albanian folk iso-polyphonic singing, has been proclaimed by UNESCO as a “Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity”. Widely performed at private and social events, Vlora and Gjirokastra are good places to find public performances of these unique chants.
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BUTRINTI, A MICROCOSM OF MEDITERRANEAN HISTORY The ancient city of Butrinti is one of the most important strands, which form the fabric of Albania’s ancient cultural landscape. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1992 Butrinti boasts remains from Illyrian, Greek, Roman and Byzantine civilizations. Close to the water, the gentle climate and the beauty of the surrounding National Park provide a splendid environment for sightseeing, walking, bird watching and unique encounters with archeology in pure nature. With over 80,000 visitors per year, of which
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nearly 50% are foreign visitors, Butrinti is by far the most international touristic site in Albania. However overnights of the majority of these international visitors occur on the close Greek Island of Corfu and less at the near coastal city of Saranda. These two locations are regularly connected via ferry links. Entering the site of Butrinti after having passed the new electronic ticketing system, the visitors’ view is captured by the impressive Venetian tower (15th
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century). A fine avenue lined up by eucalyptus trees ushers to the Butrinti agora with the Sanctuary of Asclepius, the most important of the healing gods of antiquity, and the Theatre. The first Theatre from the late 4th-century BC was funded by donations to the Sanctuary but was rebuilt and enlarged during Roman rule. Butrinti, from the 5th century, had a bishop and the Great Basilica, which is today one of the other highlights of Butrinti. It was constructed in the early 6th century AD, at the same time as the Baptistery. Ranked as the biggest of its kind second to Hagia Sophia in Constantinople only, the Baptistery is one of the most important 50
paleochristian monuments. Following the itinerary visitors will pass the spectacular circuit wall of Butrinti, dating back to the 4th century AD, and the Lion Gate (5th century). Along fortifications from Roman, medieval and Venetian times the visitors reach the former Acropolis, now occupied by the castle, a reconstruction of the medieval building of the 1930s. Not to miss, the museum, which charts the history of Butrinti as a microcosm of Mediterranean history, intimately connected to its location within a lagoon micro-region and landscape.
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BERATI, THE 2400 YEAR OLD TOWN Berati is one of the oldest cities in Albania and one of the most attractive; the view of its white houses’ climbing up the hillside up to the citadel is one of the best-known images of Albania. The citadel walls themselves encircle the whole of the top of the hill. Within them are eight medieval churches, one of which houses an outstanding collection of icons painted by 16th century master Onufri. Its age, culture and folk traditions and the near Mount Tomori National park and the famous canyons of 52
the Osumi River make Berati an interesting holiday destination, worth to stay for a while.
STROLL AROUND THE UNESCO“TOWN OF 1000 WINDOWS� The city of Antipatrea, is believed to have been founded during the Hellenistic period by Cassander, King of Macedonia, in 314 BC, on the foundations of an existing Illyrian settlement. Over the centuries the city was held by changing forces and had several names, with Berati first mentioned in 1018. In the 13th century the city was refortified, shaping the general form existing today. At the start of the 15th century 53
Berati was occupied by the Ottomans and remained part of the Empire for centuries, a period characterized by peace and prosperity. The fortifications were maintained with the addition of urban quarters at Gorica and Mangalemi, one of each site at the Osumi river. The bridge of (1780) connects the two quarters and is one of the finest Ottoman monuments in town. Protected status – the castle of Berati was listed as a cultural monument in 1948. In 2008, Berati was entered in the World Heritage List of UNESCO. Mangalemi is a fascinating quarter shaped like an elegant pyramid. The houses built with architectural mastery making Mangalemi unique. Characteristic
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of the buildings is the number of windows, which has given the whole town the epithet “the town of thousand windows”. Visitors can experience staying overnight in one of these characteristic houses as some have been transformed into small traditional hotels (e.g. Osumi Hotel, One of the best preserved houses of Ottoman style in the town dating to the 17th century hosts the National Ethnographic Museum, leading visitors back in time of Pashas’ and feudal families’ life. Visiting the Castle involves a steep walk up a cobbled path, but those who make it to the top will be rewarded with a fine view over the Osumi Valley
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(taxi transport available). The castle is inhabited by a population of 600 people. Wandering around the footpaths of the old town, visiting the National Ornufi Museum in the church of “Dormition of Saint Mary� is another must-see in Berati. Note that churches in the castle are not necessarily open, except for the one hosting the Onufri Museum; however guided tours can get access.
WINE AND BERATI OLIVES The region of Berati has about 1,050 hectares of vineyards, on which are grown different varieties
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of grapes such as Pinot Noir and Blanc, Cabernet, Merlot... producing 25% of Albanian wine. Of several wine producers the Çobo family offers tours through the winery on appointment in English, Italian and Albanian, with wine tasting with traditional food. Berati olives are considered the best in Albania. Two Çobo wine festivals have become tradition in the region, the feast of the first grape leaf last week of April and the harvest festival during the second week of September.
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GJIROKASTRA CHRONICLE IN STONE “It was a strange town, and seemed to have been cast up in the valley one winter’s night like some prehistoric creature that was now clawing its way up the mountainside. Everything in the city was old and made of stone…” (Ismail Kadare, Chronicle in Stone, first published in 1971, in English in 1987). Albania’s most celebrated contemporary writer Ismail Kadare set his hometown Gjirokastra a literary monument. The growth of tourism is the best hope for a vibrant
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economic future. Declared UNESCO World Heritage 2005, Gjirokastra is perched on the eastern slopes of the Wide Mountain (Mali i GjerÍ), dominated by the citadel on a central plateau. The castle dates from the Ottoman conquest in the 15th century, it was progressively enlarged and improved until the 19th century, when Ali Pasha of Tepelena added the Clock Tower and the eastern end and completed the fortifications to enclose the full area now occupied by the castle. It is daily open to visitors and the best place to watch Gjirokastra’s famous stone roofs. It also holds the National Armaments Museum.
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MUSICAL ENCOUNTERS BETWEEN TWO WORLDS The fortress of Gjirokastra every year host’s the International Festival “Musical Encounters between Two Worlds”, which takes place from 05-07 July 2013. The festival brings musicians from international classical ensembles together with traditional folk groups from Albania, some of them chanting the unique melodies of “iso-polyphony”.
FOLLOW ON A CITY WALK Although early fortifications were built in the fifth 60
century and the city itself was first mentioned in the 12th century, the majority of the existing buildings date from the 17th and 18th centuries, when it was an important administrative center and strategic location in the Ottoman Empire. Typical houses consist of a tall stone block structure, which can be up to five stories high. Most of the old houses have roofs covered with stone slabs. Gjirokastra’s limestone roofs have a distinctive silvery appearance and gave the city probably its name, which means “Silver City.� Strolling through the cobblestone-paved alleys is the best way to discover Gjirokastra, the Saint Sotiri Orthodox
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Church, and remaining or rebuilt Mosques, the Hamam and to rest in one of the many cafes at the Bazar. The Ethnographic museum stands on the site of Enver Hoxha’s childhood home, which is exhibiting folk costumes and cultural artifacts typical of a wealthy 19th century family of merchants or Ottoman administrators. Some of the fortified tower houses are open to visitors, namely the Zekate House. The Archaeological Park of Antigonea can be reached via a marked trail in a two hours hike from the village of Asim Zenelli or via a brand 62
new road in only 10 minutes. The Teke of Melan near the village of Nepravishta, as well as the untouched natural areas of the forest of Sotira in Dropull or one of the oldest Orthodox churches in Albania, “Labova e Kryqit�, 30 minutes from the main highway south of Gjirokastra in the village of Labova.
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DISCOVER ALBANIA’S UNIQUE MUSIC: ISO-POLIPHONY Iso-poliphony is a traditional form of Albanian music. It can be divided into two major stylistic groups, as performed by the Tosks and Labs, ethnic groups originating from southern Albania. The term “iso” is related to the drone, which accompanies the iso-polyphonic singing. The drone is performed in two ways: among the Tosks, it is always continuous and sung on the syllable ‘e’, using staggered breathing; while among the Labs, the drone is sometimes sung as a rhythmic tone,
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performed to the text of the song. Traditionally iso-polyphony in the southern part of Albania has been transmitted from parents to children. The phenomenon of Albanian folk iso-polyphony has been proclaimed by UNESCO as a “Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity�.
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VIA EGNATIA An ancient highway reconnects Albania with its neighbors. The Via Egnatia was the connection between the Western and Eastern part of the Roman Empire, the way from Rome to Constantinople. Build in the 3rd century BC as an extension of the Apian Way that runs down Italy to Brindisi, the Via Egnatia runs through Albana from DurrĂŤsi (Dyrrachium) in Albania to Macedonia and northern Greece as far as Byzantium (later Constantinople and now Istanbul) in Turkey.
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Albanians, Greeks, Jews, Vlachos, Turks, Venetians, Egyptians and Romans all made use of it and it connected trade, culture, language, religion and ideas. Even today, in spite of more than a century of nationalism, isolation and struggle, the cultural unity of the region along this road is present in music, cuisine, handicraft, stories and many other aspects of the rich culture of this trans-Balkan highway.
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APOLLONIA
Apollonia, was a major port and departure point for travelers along the Via Egnatia. Archaeological excavations have revealed that Apollonia achieved its zenith in the 4th - 3rd centuries BC. In the 1st century BC, Octavian Augustus was studying philosophy there until he heard the news of Caesar’s murder in the Senate, when he left for Rome to become later the first Roman Emperor. The city had a 4-km long surrounding wall, encircling an area of 137 ha. It has been estimated that during the developed stages of the city 60,000 inhabitants lived inside its imposing walls. 68
But Apollonia suffered great destruction from several earthquakes in the 3rd and 4th centuries AD, which were followed by the southwards shifting of the nearby Vjosa (Aoos) river. This deprived the city of its port facilities and the new port for the region was shifted to today’s Vlora. While Apollonia today is an archeological park open to the public with footpaths and sights spread over several hectares, an excellent museum.
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AMANTIA The ruins of the antique city of Amantia stand southeast of the Vlora District, close to the village of PlloçÍ. Amantia was declared an archaeological park in 2005. It was the capital city of the Illyrian Amant tribe. It was founded in the 5th century B.C. and covered an area of 13 hectares. The most interesting objects for visitors are the antique Stadium of Amantia, 60 m long and 12.5 m wide, and the fortifications.
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POGRADECI The road to Pogradeci passes along the shore of the tectonic Lake Ohrid, the deepest lake in the Balkans at 285 m. This 2-4 million years-old lake is under UNESCO protection due to its unique value and houses 17 species of aquatic animal, 70% of which are native and 30% migrant. The sponge of Ohrid is found only here and in Lake Baikal. You must not miss a taste of the traditional fish dishes, especially the baked speckled trout (Koran in Albanian), as well as the famous pickles. You might also sample the various wines on
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offer, but don’t miss the traditional unique wine of Buti, or the famous Perla and Moskat Grapa of Pogradeci. The city of Pogradeci was settled in the Neolithic period, and it later became home to the Illyrian Enkelejdë and Desaretë clans, who built the Castle of Pogradeci on a hill at 870 m above sea level. Before leaving Pogradeci don’t miss Driloni and Tushemishti, just 4-5 km south of the city. The Driloni source waters form a small lake, surrounded by beautiful greenery that makes the area and the nearby village of Tushemishti a unique oasis of beauty and tranquility. You might visit the natural monument, “Stone of Kamje,” 72
which is located in the commune of Dardhas (on the way from Pogradeci to Korça, near the village of Osnati). It is 70 m high and suddenly rises out of the surrounding terrain like a “ship sailing in a sea of green.” The archaeological site and Monumental Graves of Selca lie 30 km away from Pogradeci. The monuments here date back to the 4th century B.C. and the five rocky monumental graves are found in very few places elsewhere in the Balkans.
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KORÇA The next surprise after the exceptional city of Pogradeci is the city of Korça, one of the biggest urban centers in Albania. During springtime, the soft fragrance of sturgeon flowers fills the main avenue, while during winter you can enjoy a quiet stroll under the snow-dusted trees. In 1887, the first Albanian school opened in Korça. During the First World War, the French invaded the city and it became the “Autonomous Region of Korça.” In 1917, the French Lyceum (one of the most notable schools in Albania) opened.
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Besides its history, Korça’s traditional architecture, with its villa-like houses encircled by banisters and flowery gardens, attract attention. The zone between Republika and Shën Gjergji boulevards is very interesting: here, housed in two traditional Korça buildings are the Medieval Art Museum and the Prehistoric Museum, displaying nearly 1,200 artifacts from the Prehistoric, Hellenic, Roman, and early-Byzantine eras. Other objects of interest include the Museum-house of the master artist Vangjush Mio and the Museum of the Bratko Collection, opened in 2003 and displaying art objects from the Far East. You might want to also
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visit the bazaar (dating from the turn of the 20th century), the Mosque of Iliaz Bej Mirahori (the oldest monument in the City, dating back to 1484), and the Cathedral Ngjallja e Krishtit (Resurrection of Christ), one of the biggest cathedrals in the Balkans The city is known for its characteristic songs, called “serenades,� which are played by guitars. In the city taverns you can sample local dishes, and don’t forget the Festival of Carnivals, the biggest celebration of its kind in Albania.
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VOSKOPOJA Voskopoja was historically one of the most important Balkan centers, dating back to 1330. It reached its golden age in 1794, with a population numbering 30,000 and contacts with Leipzig, Budapest, Venice, and Vienna. The city was also home to 27 churches, an academy, a library, and the first printing house in the Balkans (in 1720). Pay a visit to the Monastery of Shën Prodhomi, Church of Shën Kolli (1721), Church of Shën Thanasi, Church “Fjetja e Shën Marisë,” and the Church of Shën Ilia, which houses pictures of
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famous Albanian iconographers, such as David Selenicasi and the Zografi brothers from Korรงa, who also worked in the Saint Mountain of Athos, in Halkidiki, Greece. In addition to its invigorating climate and pine-filled air, Voskopoja offers comfortable hotels and private houses for family tourism as well as a natural ski-run for skiing enthusiasts.
DARDHA Another unforgettable mountain spot is the village of Dardha, 20 km southeast of Korรงa, at
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1,350 m above sea level. There is snow during the winter months, the air is crystalline, and the water of the village’s many natural fountains is pure and invigorating. Look out for the unique folk women’s’ costumes dominated by black and red (the colors of the national flag), visit the stone houses that offer hospitality to travelers, and don’t miss a taste of the traditional plum raki and the lakror në saç (a traditional pie made with cabbage between two sheets of dough, and baked in a wood fired oven).
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VITHKUQI The mountain village of Vithkuqi, birthplace of the Albanian Renaissance pioneer Naum Veqilharxhi, stands 25 km southwest of the city of Korça. It has been a population center and a well-known economic and cultural center since medieval times. During your stay, you absolutely must drink the water of the Bellovoda and visit the Church of Shën Pjetër and the Church of Shën Pavël. If you have enough time, you also should climb Rungaja (1,750 m above sea level) by foot or horse. Don’t worry about accommodation for the local people have a
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reputation for hospitality and will surely invite you into their comfortable and characteristic homes.
BOBOSHTICA Boboshtica is an attractive village 16 km from Korça with a range of rustic restaurants offering traditional regional specialties; don’t miss the mulberry raki. You may also visit the old churches of Saint Demetrio (Shën Mitri) and Saint Giovanni (Shën Jovani). Boboshtica is known for its nearby ski resort of Bigëll, 1,700 meters above sea level, where diverse ski competitions are organized.
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KËLCYRA As you leave either Gjirokastra or Tepelena, Gryka e Këlcyrës will appear in front of you. This natural gate of the Valley of Vjosa will be the first to say “Welcome,” showing its natural beauty, the high colorful mountains, and the magnificent Vjosa River, a rapid and blue river full of tasty fish and amazing cataracts. Past the small town of Këlcyra, known in antiquity by the name Klistyra, as you travel through the Valley of Vjosa (Aoos, in antiquity), you will be able to admire the sight of the mountains Dhëmbeli, Trebeshina, Kokojka, and, on the horizon,
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Nemërçka (“a big, regal woman”) cradling a valley “embroidered” by the people of this region through their wisdom and hard work.
PËRMETI In Përmeti you will enjoy, the flowers, and greenery without end. You will find hospitality and a touching kindness in the streets, houses, restaurants, and hotels. A night in the pleasant and comfortable hotels on the banks of the Vjosa will leave you with the impression of sleeping amidst the waves of the river itself. Përmeti, a city of
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flowers, roses, irreplaceable songs, cleanness, and tranquility (its antique name was Tryfilia, inhabited by Illyrians), was known as an administrative center since the 15th century and its several rich bazaars were often visited by residents of the surrounding countries. Today, we invite you to see Gurin e Qytetit (City’s Stone), a surprising natural stone monument that distinguishes the city. You should also see the churches, especially the 18th century Church of Leusa, famous for its icons and wood engravings, and the 12th century Church of Shën Maria in Kosina. The restaurants of Përmeti and the surrounding area offer a special 84
cuisine and unforgettable service. Among the city’s traditional famous dishes, you can sample ingjinari with olive oil, wild meat, mountain partridge me përshesh, boar meat, rabbit, and the delicious fish of the Vjosa. You should also taste the famous wine (Kabërnet, Merlot, etc.) and the traditional raki, as well as the delicious gliko. The banks of the Vjosa are often crowded by fishing amateurs and during the summer there is an annual canoeing competition that starts from the source of the Vjosa, at the feet of the Pindi Mountains, and ends with a ceremony in the city of Përmeti. While here, you should not miss the
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chance to visit Frashëri, 30 km away from the city. It is the birthplace of the Frashëri brothers and many other noted personalities that built the foundation of the Albanian nation and defined what we call, “the Albanian gene.” However, this is not the only reason why we direct you to Frashëri. Traveling towards the village you will pass through the Bredhi i Hotovës National Park, with fir-woods, endless pines, and many natural springs. But you cannot say goodbye to Përmeti without visiting the thermal waters of Benja and the Valley of Lengarinca, just 3 km away from the city. There are six natural outdoor sources of warm curative 86
water there, even in winter. These waters flow from the beautiful canyons of two bridges built in the time of Ali PashĂŤ Tepelena: Ura e Kaikut and Ura e Dashit.
NATURE & ACTIVITIES Within a small territory, Albanian nature is amazing. The country is home to fourteen National Parks, all of them with something unique to offer and some already well equipped with tourist facilities. Albania’s National Parks spread from the lagoons at the Adriatic seashore to the Limestone Mountains of
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the Dinaric Alps and the wetlands of the Great and the Small Prespa Lakes at the trans-border National Park, which Albania is sharing with the Former Yugoslavian Republic of Macedonia and Greece. Albania is a mountainous country, about twothirds of the territory is either hilly or mountainous. The highest peak, Mount Korabi, on the boarder to Macedonia, is towering 2,751 m above sea level. The cliffs of Llogora, dividing the Adriatic from the Ionian Coast, are internationally recognized as one of the best places in the Balkans for paragliding. Other outdoor activities are also available in Albania, such as, hiking and trekking, mountain climbing, mountain 88
biking, bird watching, fishing, horse-back riding or skiing, ski shoeing and ski mountaineering in winter. Rivers crisscross this land and offer both the beauty of the canyons they have carved and the opportunity to traverse them via raft, kayak, or canoe. Throughout Albania, intrepid explorers will also find many vast caves just waiting to be discovered. Professional and amateur spelunkers alike will find no shortage of underground chambers to conquer. Near Shkodra there are at least 35 significant caves of a total of 68 designated as National Natural Monuments. An easily accessible cave is the PĂŤllumbas Cave near Tirana; it is
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Albania’s second largest. A sign-posted trail leads up to this cave, nestled in the beautiful Skorana Canyon on the Erzeni River.
HIKING AND TREKKING IN ALBANIA Rugged snow-clad alpine peaks, lush green valleys, sparking lakes, wetlands full of wildlife, traditional villages and a varied coast embracing two seas the Adriatic and the Ionian Sea - Albania has all the ingredients necessary to develop hiking and trekking tourism.
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Even though hiking maps and the signposting of tracks has become more common and supraregional and transnational mountain trails are slowly emerging, for inexperienced hikers it is advised to participate in an organized tour or to profit from the services of local guides or experienced mountain guides.
NORTHERN ALBANIA – THE “ACCURSED MOUNTAINS” The flagship region for mountain tourism is the North of Albania and the Albanian Alps comprising
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the National Parks of Thethi and Valbona and the Region of Kelmendi. The “Accursed Mountains”, as the literal translation of the Albanian words would read, are both truly spectacular and virtually impenetrable except primarily for a series of high passes that link the small number of farmsteads and homes in the valleys below to the outside world during the summer months. These pass crossings are highlights for trekking tourism in Albania, which since 2012 extends to Montenegro and Kosovo via the trans-boarder “Peaks of the Balkans Trail”, a 192 km long hiking circuit. This is a truly special European trekking adventure and 92
well off the beaten track. In Thethi, Vermosh, LepushĂŤ and Valbona traditional guesthouses are the much liked and major accommodation opportunities, however after some years of experience in hospitality and tourism services have become more professional. Kids and the local youth have become quite fluent in English and love to communicate with visitors from all over the world. The Accursed Mountains have attracted thousands of tourists mainly from West - and Eastern European countries, which made an important economic impact in this remote region
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and stopped the rural exodus. The trail system is steadily improving several tours around the major villages are now signposted and various packages are offered from a 3-days explorer trek including full board, ferry boat at lake Koman and mule luggage transport.
ALL THE BEST IN ONE TRIP – TOURING ALBANIA Touring is probably the best way to explore most of this still ‘terra incognita’ called Albania. Short trips of four days usually comprise one 94
day in the capital Tirana, with guided city walk, visit of the National Museum, the National Art Gallery and other sights, and one excursion to Kruja, the stronghold of Albania’s national hero Skanderbeg, with two interesting museums, a traditional bazar and good cuisine. The third day often includes travelling to the UNESCO city Berat, with its multitude of churches and mosques site with splendid decorations of frescos icons, or a day in the port city of DurrÍsi, which combines archeology, history with long sandy beaches. One-week tours mostly include also trips to the south, with stop at the ancient mostly Roman-
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Byzantine site of Apollonia and Vlora and the scenic ride along the Albanian Riviera. Saranda is often selected as overnight destination for excursions to the UNESCO site of Butrinti and walks in the National Park’s lagoon, on a different way back to Tirana tours often halt at the natural monument “Blue Eye” and the Byzantine church “Labova e Kryqit”, one of the oldest in Albania, before visiting Gjirokastra. The “city-of stone” completes Albania’s World Heritage sites. There are also tours to “Albania’s North” including the city of Shkodra with the castle, the lead mosque and the biggest lake at the Balkans and the 96
Albanian Alps. A trip into the Thethi National Park with hiking may be included or a ferry boat ride at Lake Komani with visit of the Valbona National Park. Tours to the southeast approach either from Gjirokastra via Përmet and lead along a picturesque road to the Korça Region, or depart from Tirana through the Shkumbini River to the Lake District. In the south-east Ohrid and Prespa Lakes are well visited as are the Orthodox churches in Voskopoja, a mountain village, which was the center of Balkan’s commerce in the 17th century. Touring into this region involves overnights in Pogradec or Korça, are often border crossing to Macedonia.
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HORSE RIDING IN LORD BYRON’S FOOTSTEPS Regarded as one of the greatest British poets, Lord Byron spent some months in today’s Albanian while travelling the Grand Tour, in 1809. “Land of Albania! Let me bend mine eyes on thee, thou rugged nurse of savage men”, so he wrote some years later in his famous poem “Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage” where he chronicled that journey through the mountainous regions of southern Albania. A nine days trip is now following the footsteps of this flamboyant traveler, revisiting
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the stunning landscapes of the Vjosa Valley, where Byron was en route to a rendezvous with Ali Pasha, the tyrannical Albanian ruler of the Ottoman’s Epirus Region, in his castle stronghold at Tepelena. The first day after arrival the small group visits the UNESCO World Heritage city of Gjirokastra, a beautifully preserved example of an Ottoman town, dominated by its citadel. On day three begins the horse trek towards the Bektashi Monastry in Melan, mirroring Byron’s historic ride. The ride next day takes the travelers to the ancient site of Antigonea, a short living city founded by
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King Pyrrhus of Epirus in 295 BC, and the village of Endrid. The castle of Ali Pasha’s sister at Libohova will not be missed as well as one of the oldest Byzantine churches in Albania, “Labova e Kryqit”. On day six the group is riding towards Tepelena very much as Byron did a century ago, skirting the flowing waters of the River Vojsa and gazing up towards the expansive walls of the city’s famous castle, birthplace and legendary stronghold of Ali Pasha. The probably most dramatic ride is leading
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though the KĂŤlcyra Canyon towards PĂŤrmet, a place renowned for its fine food and strong raki, the much-appreciated local liquor.
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Lura Lakes
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Morinë
Lake Fierza
Tropojë
Fushë Arrëz
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Scanderbeg Museum
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Tourist Information
Thermal Waters
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Lushnjë
Peqin
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Old Bridge
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