A Tale of Two Trails

by Molly Brewer Hoeg

I was excited to get my first taste of the extensive bicycle paths in north central Minnesota. Unable to choose between the Paul Bunyan Trail and the Heartland Trail, I decided on a combination of the two.

Both trails are the product of rails-to-trails projects, and lay claim to some impressive records. The Heartland Trail came first, established in 1974 as one of the first rails-to-trails conversions in the country. Stretching from Park Rapids to Cass Lake it encompasses 49 miles of paved trail. The first section of the Paul Bunyan Trail opened in 1992. Now extending 123 miles from Crow Wing State Park to Lake Bemidji State Park, it is the longest state trail in Minnesota, and the longest continuously paved trail in the country.

Forests and bogs with pockets of lingering farmland characterize the northern section of the Paul Bunyan Trail from Bemidji to Walker. “People like the mix of woods, wetlands and farms,” according to Dave Schotzko, Minnesota Department of Resources (MNDNR) Area Supervisor for Parks and Trails in Bemidji. “The nostalgia is still there from the heyday of agriculture,” he said. Natural prairie exists along the trail as well, which the DNR is working to preserve. I found this 41-mile section of the trail to be quiet and tranquil. A recent repaving project left a smooth surface and easy cycling. Well secluded from roads and traffic, even the small communities along the way lay hidden from view. At times, the trees lining the path reached overhead to form a green tunnel tinged with splashes of autumn red.

Laporte is a popular stopping point for many trail users. “It has a small rest area and [bikers] can get a snack from the local shops,” said Schotzko. “They like the amenities of a small town.” My favorite spot there was the public access area where I could look out over scenic Garfield Lake. As I neared Walker, the trees thinned on the east side of the trail to reveal glimpses of Leech Lake. Its deep, blue waters mirrored the sky, and I watched enviously as a pleasure boat motored by. Before reaching the popular resort town, the Paul Bunyan and Heartland Trail converge. Six miles later they split again and I headed west on the Heartland Trail. By early afternoon, the trail bustled with activity. As I made my way to Park Rapids, I passed cyclists of all ages and abilities, from older couples out for an afternoon jaunt to hard-core cyclists pressing their pedals for a hard workout. In between were young people with children, runners, dog walkers, and a local cross-country team on a training run.

The lighthouse at Walker City Park.

Molly Brewer Hoeg photo

"A lot of trail use is relatively local”, said Kent Skaar, Senior Project Manager for the Division of Parks and Trails in St. Paul. “Constant use is high adjacent to local communities. People may go out six miles and back again”. As a result, most trail development is l driven by area residents. “A lot of locals walk the same sections of the trail every day. They know good spots for benches, and people donate money to build them”. This 27-mile section of the Heartland Trail between Walker and Park Rapids crosses numerous rivers, creeks and wetlands, which is a big draw for cyclists. “Bridges attract people. People stop and look at the water, everyone likes to look at a lake,” said Schotzko. In the growing warmth of the afternoon, I took time out to do just that at the channel to Shallow Lake.

Among several small towns adjacent to the trail, I chose to stop in Akeley, which has been calling itself the birthplace of Paul Bunyan since 1949. In addition to a trailhead and rest area, Akeley has plenty of places to restock refreshments and supplies. I was drawn to the gigantic statue of Paul Bunyan on Broadway Street. Paul is down on one knee, but were he to stand up, he’d be the tallest in the world at 60 feet. His outstretched hand has been inviting tourists to sit for snapshots since 1985. In the summer, history buffs can visit the Paul Bunyan Historical Museum, which chronicles the town’s logging and sawmill history.

Closer to Park Rapids, Dorset is another attractive town along the trail with shops and restaurants. This tiny hamlet, population 22, calls itself the restaurant capital of the world, somewhat tongue-in-cheek. Every August, at the annual Taste of Dorset, a new mayor is chosen by random drawing and anyone can enter.

As the afternoon waned I pedaled the final miles into Park Rapids, passing Heartland Park and crossing the Fishhook River. It was the end of my day’s ride, but my exploring is not over. I still have over half of each trail to cycle. Another day.