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ALASKA
SPORTING JOURNAL Volume 5 • Issue 7
www.aksportingjournal.com PUBLISHER James R. Baker ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Dick Openshaw EXECUTIVE EDITOR Andy Walgamott EDITOR Chris Cocoles ASSOCIATE EDITOR Tom Reale WRITERS Paul D. Atkins, Christine Cunningham, Scott Haugen, Tiffany Haugen, Jeff Lund, Steve Meyer, Bixler McClure, Krystin McClure, Dennis Musgraves SALES MANAGER Brian Lull ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Becca Ellingsworth, Mamie Griffin, Steve Joseph Mike Nelson, Mike Smith, Heidi Witt, Paul Yarnold DESIGNERS Dawn Carlson, Beth Harrison, Sonjia Kells PRODUCTION MANAGER John Rusnak PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Kelly Baker CIRCULATION MANAGER Heidi Belew DISTRIBUTION Tony Sorrentino, Gary Bickford OFFICE MANAGER / ACCOUNTS Audra Higgins ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT Katie Sauro INFORMATION SERVICES MANAGER Lois Sanborn ADVERTISING INQUIRIES ads@nwsportsmanmag.com ON THE COVER Parker Schnabel (left) of Haines took over the family gold mining operation of his beloved grandfather, 94-year-old John Schnabel, when Parker, now 20, was just a teenager. The younger Schnabel is one of the stars of the Discovery Channel’s hit show, Gold Rush. Last season, Schnabel’s crew mined $1.4 million of gold in the Klondike of the Yukon Territory. (DISCOVERY CHANNEL) INSET Alaska’s bowhunters can brave the elements in winter for a variety of big-game species, including caribou and muskox. (PAUL D. ATKINS)
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CONTENTS
VOLUME 5 • ISSUE 7
87
77
GET OUT IN THE COLD
Author Paul Atkins is always up for an Alaskan hunt, including getting out his bow and braving bitter cold. Atkins provides you with everything you need to know about staying warm and taking down that trophy in unforgiving winter weather. (PAUL D. ATKINS)
FEATURES 15
PARKER’S POSSE As it turns out, the classic 1948 movie Treasure of the Sierra Madre was a few generations ahead of its time. Gold-seeking treasure hunter programming has become popular fare in this reality show era, and the Discovery Channel’s hit show Gold Rush – along with its Bering Sea Gold franchise – has rolled into season five with its motley crew of Alaska-based treasure seekers. Meet Parker Schnabel, 20, of Haines; his crew found $1.4 million of gold last season.
36
IT TAKES TWO Growing up along the shores of Lake Superior in rural Wisconsin, twin sisters Anna and Kristy Berington were introduced to sled dogging (their first craft was made out of skis and a milk crate). Years later, the transplanted Alaskans have become respected mushers in the sport, including conquering the famed Iditarod multiple times; meet the Berington sisters as they begin preparation to take on the “Last Great Race on Earth” again in March.
NO “I” IN TEAM Ptarmigan, which turn white this time of year, aren’t easy to find around snowy Alaska in the winter. But with some efficient teamwork – utilizing a shooter and spotter – these upland birds can make for a great hunt. Our husband-and-wife duo of Krystin and Bixler McClure provide the team-first approach to finding success and how to prepare a tangy pulled pork-style ptarmigan sammy.
125 SHELLFISH, ANYONE? Shrimp don’t get as much love on the shellfish food chain in Alaska as the crab species made famous by TV’s Deadliest Catch. But if you’re hungry, a basket of shrimp caught in the state’s coastal waters make for quite a tasty meal. Our tandem of Scott and Tiffany Haugen provide tips for catching these little crustaceans, plus a recipe for a delectable shrimp-ngrits dish.
COLUMNS 95
No Sympathy with Steve Meyer: Controversial hunting regulations 137 Loose Ends with Christine Cunningham: A dog’s “fake pregancy”
ALSO IN THIS ISSUE 13 24
Editor’s note Bush plane travel for hunting and fishing trips 47 Profile of an outdoorswoman 57 From Mexico to Alaska for fishing guide service owner 66 Trapping safely with your dogs 75 The Dishonor Roll 99 Tip-up tips for northern pike 107 Catching Kenai silver salmon 131 An Alaskan’s Christmas gift list
Alaska Sporting Journal is published monthly. Call Media Index Publishing Group for a current rate card. Discounts for frequency advertising. All submitted materials become the property of Media Index Publishing Group and will not be returned. Annual subscriptions are $29.95 (12 issues) or $39.95 (24 issues). Send check or money order to Media Index Publishing Group, or call (206) 382-9220 with VISA or M/C. Back issues are available at Media Index Publishing Group offices at the cost of $5 plus tax. Copyright © 2014 Media Index Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be copied by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying or recording by any information storage or retrieval system, without the express written permission of the publisher. Printed in U.S.A.
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B.C. SALMON, HALIBUT, COD & STEELHEAD THE
A
Fishmyster DOES IT ALL
ny patron of the “angling arts” will tell you that the supreme measurement of any professional fishing guide comes down to a singular question: How does that experienced, skilled guide make you feel about yourself? It is a tougher question than one might think, given the broad horizon of potential answers. For Allan Pearson, an earnest 26-year-old surf school manager from Tofino, British Columbia, fishing with Ken “The Fishmyster” Myers proved to be a remarkable experience. “Ken makes me feel like I’m a good fisherman,” Allan recently confirmed while surveying a fish-hold loaded with limits of Chinook salmon, halibut and cod. His comments came at the end of an outstanding day of fishing with Ken in the Barkley Sound region off the west coast of Vancouver Island, BC. “Ken’s passion is amazing,” Allan continued. “He is so open to sharing information. He answers all questions – even the dumb ones! Ken explains where we’re fishing, why we’re there, all details, including methods and tactics. Honestly, I didn’t know fishing guides like Ken even existed!” High praise, indeed, but not at all surprising given Ken’s extensive experience. Born and raised in Port Alberni on Vancouver Island and based in Ucluelet, Ken has spent the past 25 years as a professional tidal and freshwater guide. Unlike most of his contemporaries, however, Ken provides his guide services 12 months of the year. Spring and summer are spent on the Pacific Ocean chasing trophy kings, “barndoor” halibut and monster cod, all from his luxurious, state-of-the-art fishing machine – a Fountain 38IX powered by three (that’s right, THREE) 300HP Mercury Verado engines. Ken “The Fishmyster” Myers (left) put Alex When fall rolls around, Ken treats his guests to some of the world’s finest steelhead fisheries. Morrow on this 27-pound king salmon. “I have been fishing these Vancouver Island rivers since I was a kid, and I know them as well as anybody. Just because the tidal opportunities tail off by October is no reason to stop fishing. Many of my clients fish with me in both summer and winter. Different methods, different fisheries, but still great fishing,” explains Ken. Allan and his friends who joined him on this trip represent the new generation of anglers: young, fit and up for everything. The fact that these young men and women – children of the ‘Baby Boomer’ generation – are so keen bodes well for the future of West Coast fiheries. All five species of Pacific salmon – Chinook (kings), coho (silvers), pink, sockeye and chum – travel the tidal waters in the Barkley Sound region, and creel surveys indicate that many of these runs are once again on the rise. Likewise, Allan and his friends are prepared to provide the stewardship that is required to ensure these magnificent salmon runs remain vibrant for future generations. Ken’s boat, the MV Overkill, is fully loaded with cutting-edge navigation systems; personal floatation; life raft; stabilizers (for added comfort while trolling); an Espar furnace (for those chilly Pacific Northwest mornings); a fully functioning head, and loads of deck space. Ken also treats his guests to “nothing but the best” when it comes to fishing gear: Islander Reels and Sage rods, and an array of tackle that would humble any tackle Wes Hartman hoists a 74-pound halibut while store. “The Overkill just adds to Jeff Morrow (left) and Ken “The Fishmyster” the complete experience. Myers (right) soak up the experience. It is an unbelievable fishing machine – amazing to fish from because there is so much space and it is so solid on the water. Of course, having 900 hp on the back is just so cool. Getting to and from the fishing grounds is a snap!” Allan gushed. Ken is currently booking for winter steelheading. Prime dates for September 2015’s tidal season are still available, but they quickly book up. Contact Ken directly on his cell at 250.720.5118, email him at; fishmyster@shaw.ca. Visit Ken’s website at fishmyster.com.
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EDITOR’S NOTE
Identical twins Kristy and Anna Berington have spent much of their lives pursuing many of the same passions, including becoming elite dog sled racers. (SEEING DOUBLE SLED DOG RACING)
I
feared confusion and trouble when I was preparing to begin a phone interview with identical twin dog-sled racers Kristy and Anna Berington and asked the latter how difficult it would be to decipher who was saying what. “Well, our voices do sound quite alike,” Anna joked to me. As it turns out, I made it through just over 45 minutes chatting with the sisters and managed to figure out – I think – when it was Kristy or Anna talking about their lives growing up in the isolated northern tip of Wisconsin, joining the National Guard together, working winter sled dog and summer horseback riding jobs in Northern California’s Lake Tahoe, and ultimately moving to Alaska together to pursue their passion for dog mushing (Spoiler: the word together will be a major theme in our profile of the sisters and their teams of dogs). As the brother of identical twin sisters who have always been inseparable, it’s not difficult for me to understand the Beringtons’ kindred spirits that other twin siblings surely have, though probably not all. “Being born and raised in the same environment, I think naturally we’ve had the same interests. We’ve seen with some twins, they want to be different and don’t hang out as much,” Anna says. “But Kristy and I just both enjoy doing the same things and taking on adventures together. It seems like a natural fit that we everything we did, we’d do it together.” Adds Kristy, who’s five minutes older than her little sis: “I don’t know if it’s nature or nurture because we grew up in a really small town of about 250 people and our (high school) graduating class had like 18 kids in it. And we came into this world with a best friend and there was no other need to make friends. So we have always been really, really close.” My twin sisters will surely nod their heads in agreement. –Chris Cocoles
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Parker Schnabel, 20, took over 94-yearold grandfather John Schnabel’s Alaskan gold mine as a teenager. (THE DISCOVERY CHANNEL)
THE GOLDEN BOY PARKER SCHNABEL, 20, LEADS DISCOVERY CHANNEL’S MINERS BY CHRIS COCOLES
P
arker Schnabel is just 20 years old, so please forgive the young man if he’s not satisfied with finding over $ 1 million in gold last year. “We’re going all out this season – I’m setting a 2,000-ounce goal for us,” the Haines, Alaska, resident tells his crew from his claim on Scribner Creek in the Yukon, during a Season 5 episode of the Discovery Channel hit, Gold Rush. Schnabel’s rookie season running
his own Klondike operation brought in quite a haul – 1,029 ounces worth a cool $1.4 million. You know that had to bring a smile to the face of Parker’s grandfather John Schnabel, an Alaska-toughened 94-year-old who has battled through an aggressive prostate cancer to see his original mining company, Big Nugget, handed down to his wunderkind of a grandson. At one point, John visited Smith Creek, a Southeast Alaskan mine site the family’s patriarch has vowed to find gold at before he runs out of time, and found his son, Roger and grandsons Parker and Payson. It was an emotional moment for the family. “I think my grandpa was really
pleased to see us up here working together, side by side,” Parker Schnabel says. “That’s a big thing, and at his age he’s gotten pretty sentimental about family.” It’s become the most human element of Gold Rush. Sure, it’s about striking it rich; but for young Schnabel, it’s about carrying on a family tradition at the youngest of ages and doing quite nicely for himself. We caught up with Parker Schnabel and talked success, family and his clashes with landlord and fellow miner, Tony Beets.
Chris Cocoles I’m sure you get asked this all the time: you’re 20 years old having DECEMBER 2014
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Tony Beets (left), known to the Gold Rush miners as “The Viking,” plays the role as tough-guy teacher to one of his protégés and tenant, Parker Schnabel, who admits “Tony is not an easy guy to work with.” (DISCOVERY CHANNEL)
this success and leading your own crew, but have there been moments when you’ve asked yourself what you’ve already accomplished before the age of 21? Parker Schnabel It’s a little surreal sometimes, for sure. I’ll be the first one to say that I’m awfully lucky; I’ve had a hell of a lot of good opportunities. It’s not like I started at the very bottom shoveling ditches or anything. Really, a whole lot of it has to do with being at the right place and the right time, and I don’t forget that.
CC But you’re clearly way ahead of the curve from a business sense.
PS I grew up doing this, watching my
PS My grandpa was the one who was doing the gold mining. My dad runs a construction business. But it’s the same idea. You’re trying to move dirt from Point A to Point B as smooth as you can. And it’s not like I’m the most organized person in the world. I pay my bills as long as I have money in the bank, and that’s about it. CC What I love most about the show is the dynamic of the relationship between you and your grandpa. How much of an impact has he had on your young life? PS It’s pretty easy to say that none of this would be happening if it weren’t for him. But he’s definitely a big part of my life and my whole family’s life. He’s one of a kind – that’s for sure.
dad run a business – and a pretty successful one. And I was pretty lucky because he didn’t really keep any secrets from me. He was letting me watch what he was doing. I’d sit in his office during meetings while he’d hire people and fire people; anything I wanted to see as a far as a business goes, I could. It got me into a position where, two years ago, it wasn’t all completely foreign. So while a lot of it is a little scary and daunting, if you just tear into it it’s not that bad.
CC Is there one moment that stands out between your relationship? PS There’s no one thing, really, I don’t think. I basically spend three to four months a year with him for almost 10 years, from the time I was 8 until I was 18. When I’d get out of school I’d still be staying at home. But I would go there every day. I can’t really say there’s one specific thing that defines us.
CC What kind of positive influences
CC Is there one word that defines what
have you had from your family?
it takes to be successful in finding gold?
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Persistence? Patience? PS Stupidity? Honestly, it’s probably that you have to be a pretty stubborn. You look at the guys who have been in the Yukon for a while mining like Tony and a lot of those other guys, you’re a long ways away from anything that you need. If you need parts or some steel, things like that, you’re not going to be able to get it anytime soon. So you really have to work with just what you’ve got and to make due what you have there. And I’m not very good at that; I don’t have the greatest imagination. But the guys on my crew like Gene (Cheeseman) and Mitch (Blaschke), and another new mechanic I brought in, Mike Beaudry – they’re some of the best of the best when it comes to that kind of stuff. We can pretty well make do with whatever we have laying around.
CC As a team, have you built it around each other’s strengths and weaknesses? PS For sure, especially this season because it’s our second year together for most of them. And now that we kind of know what everybody’s good at and bad at, things go together fairly smoothly, usually. [pauses] Maybe I shouldn’t put my foot in my mouth too far in case a few things don’t work out too well. CC Over the course of time, have you found yourself needing to earn the respect of a crew that’s mostly older than you? PS There are always issues with that. I don’t really think it has to do with my age; maybe it does. But I haven’t had those kinds of issues before with people. I’m going in blind to certain extent and I do the best I can. But it’s still tough. I would say it’s still an issue. When you watch this season you’ll see there are still some of the same issues with my crew as there were last season. And it’s just part of the game.
CC Does it sort of feel like a big family that you know will have moments of insanity? PS Yeah, one big dysfunctional family.
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CC What about Tony Beets? I’m sure at times he’s been both a mentor and the enemy along the way. PS Tony is a tough guy to work with. He’s very demanding as far as the way he wants things done. And that’s OK, but it changes too. You think you’re doing everything perfectly fine, he’ll see you doing it and won’t say a thing; and the next day, you’re doing the worst thing you could do in the world. And that I don’t really appreciate. He’s probably the toughest guy who I’ve ever worked with.
CC What was life like growing up in Haines? Was it normal or pretty unique? PS For Alaska and the town I grew up in it was normal. There were a lot of kids I grew up with, who, at the same age I started doing what I was doing, they bought a fishing boat and started commercial fishing. Or there were other people who don’t really own a business but are running a business. Everything is obviously smaller, but it’s still a lot of responsibility. I still (had time to) play basketball. I played all
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This is what it’s all about for the Gold Rush cast, which has mined Alaska, the Yukon and even South America during the show’s five-season run. (DISCOVERY CHANNEL)
four years of high school. And it wasn’t like I was some social outcast.
CC Was the haul you had last sea-
son with over 1,000 ounces in gold a surprise? PS Last season was [pauses], we were surprised with it, but, at the same time,
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we didn’t know what to expect. We didn’t have anything to base it off of. We didn’t know what the grade in the ground was going to be as far as how much gold we were going to get every day or every week, or anything. We didn’t how to deal with permafrost or any of that kind of stuff. So anything would have been a surprise – either 500 ounces or 5,000 ounces.
CC It had to be awfully satisfying to accomplish what you did. PS Yes, it was. And it put us in position where there is a huge amount of startup cost with a new operation. CC On an episode recap show your mom and you talked about wanting you to go to college. But what’s in store for you in the future? PS There are a lot of things I want to do, like getting back to college. But, at the same time, I’m getting the opportunity do something (special). I’m not going to learn any more than I am now sitting in college.
Of his crew, Schnabel (second from left) called it a “dysfunctional family,” but also that “things go together fairly smoothly.” (DISCOVERY CHANNEL)
CC I guess what you’ve done is already quite the education. PS Two days ago I was having lunch with the COO of Discovery Channel. That’s not going to happen sitting in some college classroom, as fun as that sounds. ASJ
Editor’s note: New episodes of Gold Rush can be seen on the Discovery Channel on Fridays at 9 p.m. Pacific/8 p.m. Central. Check out Parker Schnabel on Facebook (facebook.com/pages/Parker-Schnabel/266076300104716) and Twitter (@ goldrush_parker).
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COME
fly
An Alaskan bush pilot prepares to shove off for another transport between remote landing areas. As is the case in the Last Frontier, weather doesn’t always cooperate when expecting a smooth trip to or from a hunting or fishing trip. (STEVE MEYER)
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WITH ME BUSH PLANE PILOTS ARE OUTDOORSMAN’S FRIENDS
BY STEVE MEYER
W
e had arrived early for our 8:30 a.m. departure and stacked all our gear on the dock where we were told our de Havilland Beaver would be docking for our flight out. The plane showed up at 9, not unusual for bush flying, as things happen and
frequently flights run a bit late. When the pilot, an older gentleman, got out, I was a bit surprised to see he wasn’t wearing hip boots, standard attire for Alaska floatplane pilots. The first thing he said to our group was, “you’re going to get wet, ‘cause I’m sure not.” Flying out for an upland ptarmigan
hunt, we were all dressed, including proper footwear, accordingly. So be it, I thought. Then he proceeded to further grumble and complain about our gear, our dogs, and he wanted to know where we thought we would camp. “It’s hunting season, you know,” he said. I told him to drop us where it was
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A sleek Super Cub takes flight in Alaska. These are like sports cars of the skies: they don’t take a lot of baggage, but they shine in tight places. (STEVE MEYER)
good for him and his plane; we would worry about the details, but we were now a bit ticked off with this guy’s attitude.
FLYING AROUND IN bush planes for the purpose of hunting and fishing started for me well before I could get a driver’s license. Flying with my uncle in his Super Cub was like getting a post-secondary education in how one conducts oneself in and around bush planes. In subsequent years I’ve had the pleasure of flying with numerous air taxi operators. Some flights were more memorable than others. Once, while drifting away from the floatplane dock on the Kuskokwim River, the plane seemed to not want to start. Eventually it did and we were on our way; shortly thereafter my door popped open so I held it closed for the one-hour flight. The young pilot just smiled and shrugged – completely unruffled and clearly happy just to be there. Waiting to be picked up at a remote village airstrip on a rainy fall morning, the Cessna 208 landed and taxied over. The pilot jumped out and swung the rear cargo doors open and hollered, “You OK back there, George?” From the 26 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
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back of a plane that appeared to be fully loaded with bags and boxes, a “Yep” was answered. The pilot turned to his waiting passengers and said, “George is a little guy and he doesn’t mind the cargo on top of him; it’s the best way I can distribute the weight.” The passengers looked at each other and grinned, as all were very familiar and amused by Alaska bush flying. Thirty minutes into the flight the pilot used the intercom system to announce – he had to holler above the noise of the aircraft – the coastal strip we were headed for was fogged in. Rather than burn fuel flying around, he was setting down on another strip. Much to everyone’s surprise, the dirt road he landed on was rather smooth and overall uneventful. The pliot opened the doors, jumped out and announced, “Smoke ‘em if you got ‘em.” We sat in the duck shack looking out the window with our gear all packed. The wind was howling, the rain was driving, the clouds were low and there was not a chance of being picked up for our return that day. The flight over in the de Havilland Beaver had been in clear skies and little wind, but, of course, Alaska weather is
not predicted – it is what you see when you look out the window in the morning. For air taxi services, outfitters, guides or anyone else dependant on bush flying it is the fly in the ointment and it makes for some maddening scheduling for these folks. A late pickup, sometimes days late, is something anyone who flies in the Alaska bush should be prepared for. Weather isn’t anyone’s fault, it just is, and taking some extra provisions for that eventuality is standard procedure. Nevertheless, within 20 minutes of our scheduled pick up the welcome sound of a single-engine, turbine-powered aircraft signaled we were going home. The plane set down in the tidal cut with the tide running hard; two pilots jumped out grinning from ear to ear. “We made it,” the Alaska West Air pilots announced. “We figured it would be nasty, so we brought the Otter.” Hustling about they loaded our gear and our dogs; within moments the Cadillac of Alaska bush planes jumped into the air bound for home. (If you haven’t had the experience of flying in one of these, do so when you can; it is simply incredible what these aircraft can do) These kinds of experiences are common in the Alaska bush. What makes or
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breaks them is the attitude and expectations of those involved. Bush pilots aren’t getting rich, as mostly these folks fly because they love it and can’t imagine doing anything else. With the exception of the surly pilot described previously, everyone has been happy, engaged in what you are doing, considerate and genuinely interested in your having a good time. Part of that is the client knowing the ropes and showing up prepared and as agreed to. If you contract for a flight out in a Super Cub and the air taxi service says don’t bring more than a certain amount of gear, then don’t. If you need more gear than you thought, change the plan, get a bigger aircraft or contract in advance for additional trips. It may seem all well and good to simply wait and see if you need two trips, but these folks are dealing with all sorts of other scheduling issues, most likely involving weather, and they may not be able to make another trip. Even if time allows, weather can storm in, especially in mountain pass situations. You do not want to be stuck in the Alaska bush lacking the gear that had to be left behind because you didn’t adequately plan or ignored the air taxi guidelines. Bush planes aren’t pickups; the smaller the plane, the smaller the area to even get gear inside, and some of the cargo holds are fairly small.
THE LANDING OF the Beaver on the mountain lake was smooth and uneventful in the 15 mph headwind. The pilot taxied over to a rock outcrop that barred close-to-shore unloading. While he stood on the floats in his tennis shoes we carried our gear through the above-the-knee-deep water. “If you can find a better spot have your gear there tomorrow for the pickup,” he said as we stood in the water and pushed the plane off the rocks. The trip was overnight to hunt ptarmigan and fish for grayling. Squishing our way around in wet footgear looking for a flat place to set camp we were astonished to find a sandy beach around a point on the lake not more than 50 yards from our dropoff point. 28 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
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TIPS FOR YOUR TRIP If you haven’t flown in a bush plane before, it is worthwhile to have a look at what you will be flying out in so you have a frame of reference when you pack for the trip. If you have gear that is excessively long or heavy, ask early and make sure it will go OK. We’ve gone to using waterproof float bags to fly most of our gear. There is every chance where you are dropped it will be raining, the ground wet or both. Float planes require water and things get dropped accidently. Don’t get the biggest bag available and cram it with all of your gear. It may not fit in the plane and it will be heavy and cumbersome to load. There are few things that are harder on an individual’s back than loading heavy gear from the awkward positions required in bush planes. Break your gear into easily manageable bags. Give your pilot a break and help load and unload by doing what the pilot asks. Show up early for your flight, and sometimes you may get out earlier than expected; being a bit early can help to keep the flow going. Study the area you are going into to minimize surprises. Google Earth is a great Internet tool to get the general lay of the land before you go. Don’t ask your pilot to point out game or places for you to find game. Unless the pilot happens to also be your guide, they are not allowed to help in that regard. Save them the trouble of having to explain why they cannot. Most of these folks will bend over backwards to help in any way they can, but some things they just can’t do. Sat phones, like them or not, are valuable on a fly-in trip. If you take game or fish early and are ready to come out, being able to let the air service know that can not only get
Off we went, the long climb into the valley beyond camp eventually dried the feet; while there were no birds, it is
you out sooner but helps the air service if they have windows of opportunity. You can also give an accurate depiction of the weather by sat phone. One side of a mountain pass may be clear and calm, but the other side may be awful. It is maddening to sit by the lakeshore waiting to be picked up in perfect weather with no plane in sight. Most likely it will be bad weather on the other side causing the delay. The sat phone can minimize the anxiety and allows you to set up for another night if things aren’t going to work out. Tip the pilot. These folks literally hold your life in their hands. They love what they do, and because of that, they often work for wages much lower than one would expect. Fly-in trips are expensive; it’s the way of the world. If your budget is so tight you cannot afford to tip, then frankly you might reconsider. Tip half of your planned tip on the flight out and the other half on the flight in. Many times the pilot flying you in won’t be the same pilot who flew you out. Tipping on the way in leaves a good impression and can ultimately lead to better service. There are areas in Alaska where it is entirely possible to take two or more big-game species in the same area; sheep, caribou and grizzly bear come to mind. Here’s what can happen: you get into an area, take a nice sheep the second day and have seven days to kill. The country is gorgeous, you aren’t ready to go home; you have tags for caribou and they are in the area. But you didn’t advise the air service that you planned on another animal, which can seriously change the plan. If you talk about this in advance and come to an agreement for additional animals (trips), then no one is surprised. SM just the way of it with ptarmigan, which can be here today and gone tomorrow. The original agreement with the air
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A de Havilland Turbo Otter plane is among the best Alaska has to offer for getting from place to place, including drop-in hunts and float trips where driving there isn’t an option. The author refers to it as the “Cadillac” of bush planes. (STEVE MEYER)
service was to fly out in the morning and be picked up as late in the day as possible to allow most of the day to
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hunt. The morning of the flight the air service announced that due to scheduling issues they had to pick up our party
at noon. What can you do? It’s just how it goes sometimes. Late in the evening we returned to camp and there was a plane backed into the sandy beach area. A man and his son were there for the week moose hunting. When asked why a pilot would drop someone on the rocks when the beach was right there he had no explanation. The morning hunt was abbreviated to allow for breaking camp and being ready for the noon pickup. But the plane didn’t show and still hadn’t arrived by 4 p.m. The wind was blowing but didn’t seem any worse than winds that had allowed us to be picked up with other services in the past. With no mountain pass to go through it seemed that perhaps there had been mechanical difficulties or some other snafu that prevented pickup. The pilot of the plane tied at the beach came in from hunting; I asked him about the weather and he said it looked fine to him. He had a sat phone – we did not bring one, thinking this simple trip would not be any problem – and allowed us to call the air service. They indicated they thought the wind was too bad in our location. When it was explained that a pilot of
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You may have a lot of gear (and an extra hunting companion) along for the ride, and many times there’s a weight limit. So pack what you need, not what you are sure you won’t. (STEVE MEYER)
a Cessna 180 was standing next to us and saying the weather was fine they agreed to come in. So we stacked our gear by the sandy beach and waited. The Beaver showed up about an hour later and taxied back to the rock face where we were originally dropped. When the door to the plane opened a set of hip-boot-clad feet came out; we thought it must be a different pilot. But it was the same guy. He made several snide comments about the weather and again stood on the floats in his hip boots while we waded to the plane and loaded it. Our party was on a tight schedule, which was the only thing that kept this guy from getting punched in the mouth and calling another service. In 43 years of flying in some really awful conditions there was no immediately justifiable reason for the behavior. Of course, the plane was stuck on the rocks and one of our party had to get out and wade waist deep to push it off while the pilot barked nasty orders from his comfortable seat. When we were finally on our way, it suddenly became clear as he continued to complain about the weather and suggest we might not make it, that he was now terrified. There is simply nothing worse than flying with a scared pilot. Perhaps he had just lost his nerve, and I actually started to feel sorry for him while we wondered if we would make it back. That didn’t last long when he was equally abusive to the staff waiting to tie up the plane and tend to the myriad of details on the floatplane dock that go along with the business. I had not used this air service in the past, a local business that was very successful. So I won’t name them based on one experience, but if anyone would like to know more and would like to contact me about it I would gladly share more information. But for the first time ever, I didn’t tip a pilot! ASJ Editor’s note: Contact author Steve Meyer at oldduckhunter@outlook.com. 32 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
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YES, YOU ARE
TWIN SISTERS FIND PASSION FOR DOG SLEDDING BY CHRIS COCOLES
W
hen their sleds and beloved dogs crossed that hallowed ground known as the Iditarod Burled Arch finish line – at almost the exact same time, mind you – in Nome during their first such race together in 2012, twin sisters Anna and Kristy Berington both had numb toes, literally.
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Sure, completing the 1,000-plusmile brutal course from Anchorage to Nome would give any musher cold feet. But given that Anna Berington actually lost some of her appendages from a frostbite incident in her pre-Iditarod career, this was a special moment for the sisters. The 30-year-olds have become respected competitors in their sport. When they take off from Fourth Avenue in downtown Anchorage on March 7, 2015, it will be their fourth Iditarod together (Kristy, five minutes older, has five appearances to little sis’s three) as
SEEING DOUBLE Identical twin sisters Anna (bib 33) and Kristy Berington arrived in Nome together during their first Iditarod in 2012. The 30-year-olds are planning to go back to the world’s most famous sled dog race in 2015 as well. (SEEING DOUBLE SLED DOG RACING)
part of their Seeing Double Sled Dog Racing organization. “There are so many times during the race when you want to sleep,” Kristy says, “but so many more when you’re in awe of the scenery and the athletic ability of your dogs and how far you’ve come. That’s when the happy emotions outweigh the crummy emotions.” It’s safe to say losing parts of your toes would be considered the crummy side of this labor of love.
THREE YEARS BEFORE completing her first Iditarod, Anna and her dogs were
scheduled to run in the Knik 200, an Iditarod qualifying race in Southcentral Alaska. Having already completed other mid-distance races, Anna wasn’t expecting the ensuing ordeal. About 10 days earlier, she was on a training run on a rough and unfamiliar trail with Kristy and a longtime mentor, Paul Gebhardt, when her sled tipped over and Anna’s leg was sliced open by a hook used as a sled anchor. The open wound was a 22-inch gash along the front of a thigh. The twins’ sixth sense had taken over when Kristy, who’d been the rear
sled, feared her sister had an issue. Anna had the bloody leg to prove her big sister’s premonition correctly. At the hospital as the wound was patched up, Anna’s doctor just happened to be a former Iditarod musher; he concluded she’d be OK to participate in the 200-mile race as long as the leg wouldn’t be hit directly and open the stitches. “I taped some cardboard around my leg as sort of armor, but part of my problem was it got to 55 below (zero) during the Knik 200, and when I stopped at (the halfway mark) I wasn’t active or DECEMBER 2014
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“One of my main teachers has been Kristy,” says Anna Berington (right, in front of the Iditarod’s Burled Arch finish line in Nome). “She has definitely been one of my biggest mentors because she understands me so well. (SEEING DOUBLE SLED DOG RACING)
moving around a whole bunch because it was sore,” Anna recalls. “I felt like my feet never got warm and looked at my feet were kind of gray. There were no people doctors at the race, but there were vets. And I asked them what I should do. They told me don’t thaw it out if you’re going to keep going.” (Spoiler alert: she was going to keep going.) Kristy, also competing in the race, decided if Anna was to go on they’d run together just in case over the final 90 miles. They were rather painful, and at the end of the race she had to go back to the hospital. Doctors eventually had to amputate tips of her toes that were affected by frostbite. “I was scared and worried about her. I couldn’t believe that she kept going. But when you get to the halfway point, there’s no real way back because you have to get your dogs back anyway,” Kristy says. “I tried not to panic because I didn’t want her to be in any fear or concern for her safety.” Anna’s attitude was, “If you can’t take of yourself, you can’t take care of your dog team.” She had become Alaska tough.
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WHEN KRISTY BERINGTON was born in February 1984, her new mom, Janet, was not expecting a second daughter’s appearance minutes later. “Obviously we were there, but I don’t remember,” jokes Kristy, “but I know my grandma called and asked how my mom was doing; my dad said, ‘Oh, Janet’s fine and so are the babies, and they’re with their mom.’ My grandma said, ‘Wait, wait, wait – what did you say? Babies?’ We only had one crib that our older sister, Kat, used. It was just enough for one baby, so everyone in the town chipped in and got another crib.” That was the down-home closeness of the Beringtons’ tiny hometown, Port Wing, Wis., which is in the extreme northern part of the state along the coast of Lake Superior, about 60 miles due east of Duluth, Minn. It was a great place to grow up for another reason. Anna calls Port Wing, population 250 or so, “a vast playground.” “Our mom kind of trusted us to take care of each other, so we would go down and play at the lake,” Anna says. “We were pretty independent and go out on our own and ride horses or go swimming in the lake.” There were also brutal Wisconsin winters to find activities befitting such
a cold climate. And while Anna and Kristy played basketball and volleyball at South Shore High School, a neighbor, Lisa Chaplin, dabbled with dog sledding and recruited 10-year-olds Anna and Kristy to help out with feeding of her dogs and learning how to drive a sled. According to the Beringtons’ website (seeingdoublesleddogracing.com), “they figured they would try it out with a set of skis, a milk crate, and a slightly perplexed dog team made up of a border collie and a great Pyrenees. “Lisa was our first mentor,” Kristy says of their neighbor. “She had us over there feeding the dogs and running small teams. Our dogs, whether they liked it or not, were harnessed as sled dogs overnight. The rest of them were sheep dogs and other herding dogs.” Anna and Kristy loved the camaraderie with the animals and they were mesmerized by a Disney movie, Iron Will, about a young man who honors his late father and helps his family’s financial woes by competing in a grueling and dangerous sled dog race. A couple years later, the girls participated in their first junior race with four dogs and covered 4 miles. Little did they know it was the foundation that would eventually transform the sisters to the Last Frontier and compete in the “Last Great Race on Earth.”
THINK ABOUT WHEN you were 18, fresh out of high school with boundless opportunities but unsure of what you wanted to do with your life. Kristy and Anna Berington felt that way. “We were both kind of indecisive on if we wanted to go and study in college and then having to pay for it. Looking at a military option like the National Guard felt like a great choice,” Kristy says. “We both loved adventure, and the recruiter did a good job on selling that part of the military. And there was adventure, and it taught us a lot of good skills that you would apply in your life as far as discipline and taking responsibility.” It wasn’t going to be a lifelong career choice, but there were some memorable moments. The 6-foot blonde sisters’ identical looks even created a bit of
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confusion at boot camp as they weren’t in the same unit. The punchline turned out to be on them. “Our drill sergeants didn’t even know there were twins in our unit,” Kristy says. “I remember getting yelled at by one of her drill sergeants because I was in the wrong spot at the wrong time. When I said he wasn’t my drill sergeant, he got really upset. I started doing pushups until my arms were falling off. Anna came up with her platoon and he figured it out. He was embarrassed and he made both of us do pushups.” When their service time ended, the Beringtons quickly found out after a couple college semesters, they had the urge to search for more adrenaline. They eventually matriculated not on campus, but in the backcountry of Lake Tahoe in California’s Sierra Nevada Mountains. They’d spend their winters working for a dog sled touring business, and summers literally living in a tent atop a mountain and helping out at a horse stable. “We wanted to see what else was out there,” Anna says. “What else” would become Alaska.
KRISTY BERINGTON VISITED Alaska in 2007 and met Dean Osmar, a legend among dog mushers and the 1984 Iditarod winner. He offered Kristy an opportunity to learn the competitive side of raising and racing sled dogs. “When she got back down she said, ‘I got us a job in Alaska,’ and I was like, ‘OK, when are we leaving?’” Anna says. “We packed up what we had. We landed in the right spot, so we were pretty lucky; I guess Alaska had always been calling us.” Osmar is just one of several Berington mentors in the tight-clad dog musher community of Alaska. Veteran sledder Gebhardt took Kristy under his wing and Anna trained with Osmar and Iditarod regular Scott Janssen. They first settled down in Kasilof on the Kenai Peninsula. They have since moved to Knik, north of Anchorage. Where in summer they’ll work several odd jobs to pay the bills, their winter season is all about racing their dogs. 40 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
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Under the tutelage of the Osmars, Gebhardts and Janssens, Anna and Kristy learned the little details and idiosyncrasies of the sport. Gebhardt would take them on long-distance overnight campout trips with the dogs into the Alaskan bush; it was a phenomenon the twins never experienced. Gebhardt went through his routine of preparing his team to get started again for a potential race situation, again giving Anna and Kate behind-the-scenes access to a true professional. “You pick that up. By watching Paul on these camping trips and in mid-distance races, you think to yourself, ‘OK, that’s how he’s so fast at that, or that’s how he saves so much time,’” Anna says. “So it really helps us get better at what we do.” Kristy says Gebhardt offered valuable advice on how to properly care for these magnificent working dogs and preventing ailments that are part of the grind of sled dog racing (she’s won multiple veterinarian awards after several races). “It takes years of experience to look at a dog and see that if the gait is off that there’s something wrong, or if they’re not having a good day that something is bothering them. You have to try and figure it out what is and give them the best treatment possible to get them back running again.”
SLED DOG RACING is not a get-rich-quick deal. The sport’s premier event earnings for the champion equates to about $50,000 plus a new truck. But the cost to care for the dogs year-round, pay for the race’s entry fees, equipment and transportation would cancel out the winnings in a hurry. For less heralded mushers like the Beringtons, there’s little money to be made (Anna’s career earnings in her three Iditarods: $3,147; Kristy’s won $6,947 in five tries). Yet, spend some time chatting with the twins and they might as well be millionaires for how fired up they are to participate in the upcoming Iditarod prep events before competing in their sport’s World Series in March. They’ve come a long way
Nicholas, a veteran team member in all five of Kristy Berington’s Iditarod appearances, is one of her “fur children.” (SEEING DOUBLE SLED DOG RACING)
DOGS ARE FAMILY TOO Kristy Berington considers all her dogs like family members. “I don’t have any children, but I consider them my fur children,” she says. “I couldn’t imagine my life without them. Each dog is different and I love them all so much. We’ve been through so much together.” One of her lead dogs, Nicholas, is a sentimental favorite. “We ran our first Iditarod together and we’ve run every one since,” Kristy says of Nicholas. “I have so much respect for that dog, considering everything he’s done for me and what we’ve been through together.” One of sister Anna’s favorites is Rooster. “He was kind of an underdog; a lot of people would tell me they didn’t know why I was training him because he wasn’t going to make it,” she says. “I would say back that I believed in him. He did make it and is a great leader for me.” Anna will bring eight dogs back among her team for this season’s races. She expects to develop an even deeper bond with them as they train. “Different mushers have different relationships with their dogs. Anna and I work with a lot of young dogs and puppies. We feel more like teachers and those dogs are our children. And when they cross the Burled Arch (finish line) in Nome it feels like they’ve graduated,” Kristy Berington says. “But I feel like the teams toward the top view their dogs more like soldiers, and there’s also camaraderie there. But running adult dogs they ask a lot more of them than we can of our puppies. We keep things upbeat and fun as much as we can for them. It’s something that when they finish, we hope they feel like that was tough but fun and want to do it again, and not get to the finish line and say, ‘That was so hard; I hated it and never want to go back.’” -CC
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since the skis, milk crate and hooking up their border collie and Great Pyrenees to that makeshift sled in Port Wing.
When Kristy made her race debut in 2010, she could count up the miles ridden in the qualifying races to equal
TRAINING FOR A RACE Dog sled racing can be both expensive to prepare for and grueling to handle in bitterly cold conditions in remote – even for Alaska – locations, not to mention keeping your team of dogs as safe and healthy as you can. “Experiencing everything is the best teaching tool,” Kristy Berington says. “It’s important to put yourself in, not dangerous situations, but uncomfortable situations. You definitely have to train how you race and race how you train, something I’ve heard from other longtime mushers. Looking back at my first race, in the Knik 200, thinking about what I wore and what I was doing, I was a total rookie. I remember thinking, ‘Oh, I’ll be warm enough in rain pants and a windbreaker.’ And I just thought that suffering was a part of the sport and that ev-
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erybody is going to be uncomfortable when they’re running their dogs. But (mentor Paul Gebhardt) taught me it doesn’t have to always be that way.” At first glance, racing in this fashion would seem as much a mental as physical challenge for the mushers. “I think it’s some of both,” Kristy says. “The more that you can help your dog team, the more they’ll respect you. And when you start getting tired and every bone in your body is telling you to hit that snooze button one more time, you start to realize in the extra 15 minutes in that checkpoint, races have been won and lost in minutes or seconds. So you really need to be disciplined, which (herself and sister Anna) learned in the military. You have a schedule and you stick to it.” -CC
the Iditarod’s approximate 1,000 miles. “I always felt like I was so underprepared. I was pretty nervous over everything,” she says of her 39th-place finish. “But it all turned out to be a great experience, and that’s why I did it four more times.” Three of those were extra special because of who joined her among the last three finishers. The 2012 race will always carry heavier sentimental weight. They ran together from checkpoint to checkpoint. They encouraged each other, helped each other when there was an issue with a dog or equipment problem. “It helped us to have some support. We’ve heard other people disagree, that maybe one of us was holding our dog team back to run with the other,” Anna says. “But you really had to be there to see what was actually going on.” And as the Beringtons’ times two completed checkpoint after checkpoint, sometimes leaving behind a candy bar or other items along the course for the
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next sled to pick up, they decided to finish this one together. Fans watching on Front Street in Nome literally did see double when the two sleds full of determined dogs and the lookalike blondes piloting them side-by-side headed for the finish line. They clasped and raised their hands in unison and stopped at the finish line, but it was determined that Anna’s lead dogs were already across the timing spot just before Kristy’s reached (Kristy was running just 11 dogs to Anna’s 12 after one suffered a minor injury and was with the vets). It was a storybook 43rd- and 44thplace showing for the sisters, who are now making this uniquely Alaskan tradition an annual event. “I think there was a moment of ‘we made it,’ from all of our little dreams when we were kids,” one twin says. Adds the other: “I think if we could go back in time and tell our 10-yearold selves, ‘Hey, you’re going to run
Kristy Berington is the more experienced musher of the twins, having competed in two previous Iditarod races before Anna joined her in 2012. (JULIA REDINGTON)
five Iditarods with your own dogs,’ we wouldn’t have believed it.” ASJ Editor’s note: For more information on
the Berington sisters or to donate to help fund the expenses of sled dog racing and care for the dogs, check out their website, seeingdoublesleddogracing.com.
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Vanessa James grew up on Prince of Wales Island but retreated to the Lower 48 for 4½ years, but she never lost her Alaska roots in Colorado and Oregon. (VANESSA JAMES)
SERVING UP MEMORIES SHE’S AN ALASKAN, NOT A HARD-CORE HUNTRESS By Jeff Lund
D
eep within both men and women is an innate desire to be in the wild. It’s tended to by some with simple recreation, or an idealistic pilgrimage. For others, it’s more. Craig resident Vanessa James doesn’t care much for social norms, justification, scientific evidence or the why behind her desire. What she does care about is being outside.
In early summer, a terminal run of king salmon files into the inlet in front of her house. Terminal runs of salmon are created and funded by the state to enhance the population. Wild fish are harvested, eggs fertilized, then hatched in incubators in an effort to increase survival rates during the all-important fry stage. The fish are then raised until about the size of your hand and released in small creeks that are usually void of fish. When the salmon return, sport
fishermen benefit as do commercial fishermen. Since the fish aren’t able to get up to spawning areas they provide locals a bounty for the freezers or pantry – and snagging is legal. So James was out there in her kayak, combining her passion for paddling along with her quasi-obsession for angling. “The salmon head up toward the river and there are sections where they pile up,” she says about how she and her friend Christy House stalked a school and hooked up. “It just kinda towed me around for about half-hour. If I reeled it in DECEMBER 2014
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Being half Alaska Native, James understands that hunting and fishing means filling her freezer with food. She rarely eats grocery store staples like pork and chicken as deer meat is a huge part of her diet. (VANESSA JAMES)
too close, it would take off or dive and I thought it would tip me over, so I had to have it out far enough so it wouldn’t pull too far down.” She secured the rod with her leg on one side of the kayak, and then rowed off the other, slowly making her way to the beach where she eventually
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landed the 20-pound king salmon.
The ground game If there’s something which arrests her attention more than fishing, it’s hunting. James isn’t one for hanging antlers around her house, though. For her, it’s about living off the land, not projecting
an image. “It’s a way of life up here,” says James. “It’s a way to build relationships and memories with families and friends. I really enjoy being out there with my cousins and friends and putting food in the freezer for the winter.” Most of her hunting adventures are with her cousin, Zachary, who also graduated from Craig High School on Prince of Wales Island but recently traded his Alaska residency for that of Washington and a life with his wife. “We always make sure Mom’s taken care of with one full deer, so whether she takes half and I take half of the first one we make sure we both have meat in the freezer,” Vanessa James says. One might think that an entire year of fish and deer would be culinary monotony, but that’s not the case. “Very rarely do I get a craving for chicken or pork,” she says. “I maybe
eat five or six meals a winter of one of those. I just bought some pork chops and a package of chicken. That will keep me going for a couple months at least.” Even when she invites or visits friends for meals, local meat is on the menu. “A majority of the time I’m with the House family, and we’re eating some sort of meal prepared with deer burger. Probably 80 percent of the time that’s what we’re eating when we’re together.” James shot her first deer with a .243 when she was six. Since then it’s become a hobby and a release. On weekends, she’ll occasionally pack her rifle and drive around the island on short road hunts as a way to decompress after stressful weeks as an elementary school teacher. “I do it just to get out and to get away from grading papers and people.”
Functioning outside Sometimes people ask how Alaskans function outside of their natural habitat, as though they are somewhere between Curious George and Brendan Fraser in the caveman-out-ofwater movie, Encino Man. Before she settled into a teaching career in her hometown of Craig, James spent 4½ years in the Lower 48 for college. Though the setting changed her ability to hunt and fish, she adapted without changing. The biggest shock wasn’t for her; it came from her, as girls not used to a subsistence lifestyle were introduced to a friendly Alaskan who was all about it. “I lived in the Portland area as well in Colorado and still enjoyed being in the outdoors, but I never made a lifestyle out of fishing or hunting,” she says. “I’d take four to six cases of jarred fish, deer jerky and deer meat or frozen fish with me to school. Most of the girls were pretty standoffish about it, but I did have a couple roommates who were really into it.” If there were fellow Alaskans around, an authentic potluck ensued. “I made a lot of friends who were from Alaska but further north and we DECEMBER 2014
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had some nice Alaskan feasts. Some of my inner-city friends weren’t so sure.”
Not a big deal James will surely admit she’s not uncommon. Social media reports stories of local couples hunting together, gifting camouflage, weapons and even getting engaged during hunting trips. High school kids hunt and trap after school and people of all ages go outside whenever possible. It is also a strong cultural component. James is half Alaska Native (one-quarter Athabaskan, one-quarter Tlingit), so the element adult mentorship is an important part of her life. “I wanted to learn how to put up fish and deer meat and acquire all the knowledge that my mom has to offer,” James says. “She is my teacher and it’s an important part of the culture to learn from elders.” As Alaska dips deeper into winter, James will reach further into her freezer to pull out packets of mem-
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ories for dinner. The days of snagging king salmon are over until next summer, the most recent rut replaced with frigid morning drives to work. Those who lived out their Alaskan dreams are back home watching reality TV shows set in the Last Frontier, looking for bits of truth in each episode. For those who have never been, the imagination will run wild. But James and thousands like her go about their business as they always do. After all, conditioning happens based on location and circumstances. It’s not dictated by perception. “I don’t know what kind of misconceptions there are, but maybe [people from out of state] think women up here are butch,” she says with a little laugh. “In the winter time I’m a teacher and get dressed up to go do things and put on a professional face.” That’s probably not much of a surprise, but you can’t really blame people for wanting to hear kings from kayak stories - and she’s happy to live them. ASJ
“It’s a way of life up here,” James says of hunting and fishing. “I really enjoy being out there with my cousins and friends and putting food in the freezer for the winter.” (VANESSA JAMES)
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RAFA’S JOURNEY NORTH A MEXICO TO ALASKA FISHING ENTREPENEUR BY JEFF LUND
R
Rafael Ramirez-Ruiz was born in Mexico, but his family moved to California before eventually landing in Alaska. Now 26, “Rafa” has started his own successful fishing charter service on Prince of Wales Island. (TRANQUIL CHARTERS)
afael Ramirez-Ruiz sizes up the halibut and correctly deduces it’s on the legal side of the slot limit, gaffs it and brings it on board – but it comes in a little hot. The flat fish thrashes side to side, spewing frothy, bright-red blood across the deck. He locks his hands around the gaff still stuck through the head of the fish and absorbs the 45-pound halibut’s fit at chest level until the fish flings itself from the gaff. It flops a bit more until a club is brought down on its head. Rafael – Rafa (raw-fuh) or Rafi (raw-fee) to some, Raf (raw-f) to others – is not an imposing figure; in fact, he was smiling the entire time the halibut shook. But he’s not soft.
The journey north Rafa, 26, was born in Mexico and moved to Santa Cruz, Calif., when he was 10. His parents followed work to Alaska three years later. A state-champion wrestler and former Alaska boxing champion, the 2005 graduate of Klawock High School on Prince of Wales Island was getting looks from NCAA Division I wrestling programs, but in his senior year he blew out his knee. He wound up at the University of Alaska Fairbanks on an academic scholarship, where he earned a degree in linguistics. In 2011, Rafa started Tranquil Charters (fishcraigalaska.com) of Craig, Alaska, but three years into his so-far successful career, he slept on the couch of guide Howie Daggs, whom he hired for the 2013 season. It’s not the typical arrangement, the owner living with the guy he hired and his fiancé, but this is the state where rubber boots are accepted at formal events – especially weddings – so it’s not a big deal. And since that summer, Rafa got engaged himself just before Howie and Kim tied the knot.
“Once you’ve felt you’ve lived two or three times,” Ramirez-Ruiz says,” I think that’s when you know you’ve done something right.” (TRANQUIL CHARTERS) DECEMBER 2014
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The business of guiding
One of Rafa’s boats, piloted by guide Howie Daggs, takes clients on fishing adventures throughout Southeast Alaska. (TRANQUIL CHARTERS)
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In a world of get-rich quick schemes and shady business, Rafa has depended on something a little more personal – himself. From the start it seemed like he was destined for success. Just weeks into his career at a now closed lodge in Craig, he drew a group from Kentucky that had been fishing Alaska for 16 years and was hesitant about Rafa’s abilities. But the 18year old put them into their limit of king salmon (none smaller than 33 pounds) by 7:30 that morning. They requested him the next year. Stu Merchant, who has guided off Prince of Wales Island since 1983, says Rafa has an uncanny ability to get on fish. “He is a quick learner,” he says. “He is as good at his age as anyone.” In Rafa’s second year, he continued to find the fish and got a client into a 334-pound halibut. “I didn’t know what to do with that one,” he says. “I harpooned it and put a buoy on it; I put a life ring on it. I wasn’t going to lose it. That’s how you learn how to land big halibut.” After four years guiding for that lodge and one with Chuck Haydu at Kingfisher Lodge, Rafa bought a boat and started his own business. Now he and Howie have Tranquil Charters booked all summer. “(Rafa is) hardly ever home because he’s always working,” says Kim Daggs. Rafa has to be in order to make it. He taught himself some basic web design and other skills that have helped him become more than just a guide with a boat who takes people fishing. He’s in demand, but that doesn’t go to his head or his retirement. “I don’t save much,” he says. “We have good fishing equipment and put all our money back into getting top-of-the-line stuff. Some people think of it as careless or carefree, but it’s a pretty dang short life we live. Once you’ve felt you’ve lived twice or three times, I think that’s when you know you’ve done something right.” Rafa might be driven, but it hasn’t replaced the attributes of a good guide. He’s far from cutthroat and doesn’t have the makings of a salty, crusty captain. When his clients get sick, he feels
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for them, but knows the rest of the group probably wants to keep fishing. “I do (feel bad) because it’s pretty miserable feeling,” he says. “I got seasick once on the state ferry during a winter storm and was sick for the whole ferry ride, so I didn’t eat for the whole 72 hours. I just puked my guts out. That was the only time I got sick.” His stomach may have hardened, but he still has a soft spot for things like sea otters; even when his day is almost over, he’ll stop to watch whales breech or bubble feed. He says it never gets old. He’s been a little too close before too. While watching from a distance, one showed up on the fish finder. “Yeah, it was pretty obvious what was down there,” he says. “That was a little too close.” What about weather? Once, two 30foot rogue waves bore down on his boat. “I looked up and only saw water, so I gunned it,” he remembers. “When we got to the top, we dropped. Everything was in slow-motion. My Pepsi floated up and I tried to catch it.” He motions with his left hand how he tried – and failed – to grab the suspended can. Though he may have lost the soda, the fish haven’t been so lucky when Rafa’s around. That has helped him develop into one of the most respected young guides around. In 2013 he added a second boat and decided to hire Howie, who had never guided before but impressed Rafa with his demeanor and work ethic. “You can always hire a guide, but a lot of them are just looking for a job,” Rafa says. “I want clients to feel that they are being taken care of. “He’s a good guy, very approachable. That was the biggest thing.” Howie thinks Rafa made a good choice, and is enjoying Rafa as a boss, partly because he sets no gas limit on himself or Howie. Rafa reads charts, marks spots and has a rapport with other guides and locals. Rapport meaning, they discuss things, not that he relies on tips to get fish. When he fishes, he takes liberties. Sometimes his hunch or instinct pays off in a 35-pound king at a spot where no one
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else is fishing; other times it doesn’t, he checks the fishing report, then moves on. Howie likes the freedom working for Rafa provides. “People told [Rafa] when he bought the new boat to hire someone with experience, or get someone from another lodge, but he went with me,” Daggs says. “I can just go out and get fish. That’s what’s made my first year so easy. He’s one of the best guys out there.” Howie has made Rafa’s instincts correct again. He’s been able to turn his clients into believers and has settled into what he hopes to be a long guiding career. Even though he rarely has a day off to work on the absolutely-Alaskan beachfront house 9 miles outside of Craig, Howie and Kim hope one day becomes a lodge, guiding has its hooks in him. It’s awesome to have your job be to take people out for a life experience.”
Off the water Both Rafa and Howie have taken their shots at coaching at local high schools. Howie is now a wrestling referee. Rafa has been a part of the wrestling program’s staff at Craig High School for the past three years and has substitute taught there as well. At a July enchilada fundraiser cooked by wrestling coach Troy Thain’s wife, Rafa stood in front of a small group of guests with a trademark smile that made you wait for a good story. He’d been trying to grow a beard all summer, but it wasn’t full. He looked like a guy meant to only have a goatee. He said the food was ready and donations were welcome. No one moved. “Seriously, eat.” Another pause, and the fishermen devoured the halibut enchiladas. In two months the season will be over, the enchilada feeds will be finished, but the fishing won’t. Rafa will still be out on the water when most charters are docked for the season. “In September, I’m pretty much the only boat out there. It’s a little eerie.” If that what it takes, it’s worth it. ASJ
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CANINE SAFETY MEASURES
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KEEPING DOGS SAFE FROM TRAP LINES BY STEVE MEYER
T
he Garmin Astro GPS screen showed the setter on point in the willow-choked brush of the Alaska Peninsula, where ptarmigan abound. The hunter followed the display to
the dog’s location and saw her sitting, which is not what setters do on point. As he moved in he observed a wire by her and picked it up, which immediately caused it to tighten around his beautiful little setter’s neck. My friend and fellow setter owner’s setter had inadvertently ran into
the snare and, thanks to her intellect, she evidently immediately knew it was not something she could fight, so she sat down and waited for her hunting partner to show up and help her out. This happened in late summer, a time when one would not expect wolf snares to be out; perhaps it was an old one or the area was open early for predator control issues. In any event, in this case everything worked out OK; he had tools
Training your dog to sit quietly when caught in a snare can save its life, certainly worth the effort if you wander in areas where traps may be around but not easily visible. (STEVE MEYER) DECEMBER 2014
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to release the snare and the little setter was not hurt. But it could have easily not been OK – hence the reminder that trapping season is upon us, and it is time to be extra vigilant and prepared when hunting with dogs or just out in the wilds with your canine companion.
IN THE FALL and winter as trapping season opens, your dog is susceptible to encountering traps or snares set for wolves and coyotes. The bait often used will draw in a domestic dog, and those set in “runways” that are used by wolves and coyotes will be natural corridors for dogs to follow. Trappers do not want to catch your dog. Most will not set traps in areas that are close to homes, or even in sparsely populated rural areas. I should clarify that with most, but not all. On the Kenai National Wildlife Refuge, trappers are prohibited from setting snares or traps suitable for anything larger than a mink or muskrat within 1 mile of a road.
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In the backcountry trap lines are relatively easy to spot. There will be spots along a trail where foot tracks show someone leaving the trail for a short distance, or there may be flagging at a set. Most backcountry trappers are setting in places where nobody but a trapper is going to access. Some trappers post signs announcing their trap line but many do not, and who can blame them when trap lines are often the subject of vandalism and theft? The long and the short of it is this: trappers have the right to trap where the law says they can. Most trappers are conscientious about their possible impact on domestic animals and avoid that contact whenever possible. I am a trapper and a dog lover to the extreme and go to great lengths to assure that no one’s canine partner will be caught in one of my sets.
THAT SAID, NO matter how careful and mindful you think everyone is, there is always the possibility of a terrible acci-
Trappers use bird wings as attractants and to mark lines; if you see this you and/or your dog are probably too close to a set. (STEVE MEYER)
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dent, especially if you really get into the backcountry with your dog. Being prepared to deal with that eventuality may save your dog’s life. A pair of heavy-duty, side-cutter pliers is one of the tools you should always have. Being able to quickly cut through the cable of a snare is critical when a dog has pulled the snare tight. Leatherman tools, as useful as they are, just do not have the cutting power needed for this task. A short length (6 feet) of ¼-inch rope will enable you to release the tension on a conibear trap. Rather than try to explain this process in a short column I recommend visiting this website: terrierman.com/traprelease. htm. It has very good illustrations that show how this process is done. The reality is dog owners probably have more reason for concern in populated areas still considered rural. It seems there are always a few “trappers” who insist on setting in these areas where you would just not expect to have problems. In these areas there are a few cautions to consid-
er. Do not let your dog run loose without you close by.
IF YOU ARE not with the dog you cannot possibly help if it does stumble into a trap or snare. When out walking your dog be aware of where it is at all times and be prepared to go to immediately to its aid if it disappears and does not respond to a call back. There are some inexpensive lights that attach to dog collars that blink and make finding the dog’s location much easier to spot in dark conditions, which of course we are in so much of the winter. Hunters with big running pointers and setters are utilizing the Garmin Astro GPS collar that was referenced at the beginning of this column. These hunting dogs work out at times beyond a half mile from their partners, and at that distance, are difficult to track and, even worse, can be lost. This collar tracks the dog on a real-time screen that allows the hunter to go to the dog no matter where they may be. They are
expensive, but are certainly worth considering if your dog is a big runner. Another option is the beeper e-collars offered by many of the current manufacturers. These don’t track the dog on a map grid but they do allow you to locate the dog with a press of a button that announces where it is. Not nearly as expensive as the Garmin, they work very well for most with normal hearing and can be heard out to about 400 yards. An even less expensive option is a Northwoods bell that attaches to the dog’s collar. These can be heard for about 300 yards by the average person and allow you to track their movements in heavy cover. They could be a life saver if you need to find the dog immediately. Few things in life, at least in this old hunter’s mind, are as important as our four-legged hunting partners. Being prepared to help them when they are hurt or in peril seems to be the very least we can do for these animals that give us so much. ASJ
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WHAT A WASTE S ometimes, even in heinous poaching cases that fill this space every month, the aftermath of the crime has somewhat of a positive resolution.
BY CHRIS COCOLES
The Alaska Wildlife Troopers and local law enforcement agencies have done a remarkable of job donating meat from poached wildlife to families in need throughout the state. Three cases in Southeast Alaska recently magnify how many meals are wasted – and some rescued – when meat from wildlife – even when harvested legally – is potentially left to rot away. On Oct. 14, the troopers were alerted to a moose that was shot and killed along the road near the community of Kake, located on the northwest coast of Kupreanof Island (north of Prince of Wales Island). The bull turned out to be sub-legal, but Kake public safety officers managed to salvage the animal’s meat and distrib-
ute it throughout the area. Three days later, Alaska Wildlife Troopers in Wrangell found 21 dead ducks that had been dumped along the road. Unlike the moose shooting, the meat from the waterfowl was not considered edible. The same could be said for what was a shocking discovery by wildlife troopers along the road system in Petersburg; around 200 silver salmon were dumped, but none of the fish were salvaged. All three cases had been unsolved. At a time when hunger is a worldwide crisis and an ongoing issue domestically in the United States, such waste is deplorable. The Alaska Wildlife Troopers posted the following reminder on the official detachment of these cases: “In almost every community a charity list has been established of groups and individuals that will take wild game and fish. These groups are easily contacted through the local VPSO, police department or (AWT) office.” It sure seems like a reasonable request, because somewhere, hungry families could use that moose, duck or salmon to make it through some tough times.
A cow moose would provide a huge amount of meat to needy families in Alaska. But too many times, hunters or poachers leave behind lots of possible meals. Sometimes, the animal is salvageable; but in others, the meat gets wasted. (TIM RAINS/NATIONAL PARK SERVICE)
SENTENCED In September, Palmer Alaska Wildlife Troopers responded to the remains of a cow moose with partially wasted meat. The cow moose had also been taken illegally when 31-year-old Aimee Hay of Anchorage had not possessed a cow moose permit. On Oct. 27, Hay pled guilty/no contest to taking a cow moose in a closed season, wanton waste and unlawful possession. Her 10-day jail sentence was suspended, but she’ll have to pay $4,000 in fines, forfeited the rifle used and will be on probation for three years with a year of no hunting privileges. ASJ
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The author is an experienced Alaskan hunter in the winter. But even this veteran understands not to take a winter bow hunt lightly. (PAUL D. ATKINS)
GET COLD, BE BOLD IT TAKES MORE THAN THROWING ON AN EXTRA FLEECE TO PREPARE FOR A WINTER HUNT IN ALASKA BY PAUL D. ATKINS
M
y hands were freezing, and the thought of drawing back a bow in such cold weather actually scared me. But the muskox bull in front of me couldn’t wait, so, wrapped in several layers of clothes, I methodically and carefully drew the bow back, and placed the 20-yard pin right behind his shoulder. The whole time I prayed my bow wouldn’t explode in the minus-30-degree weather.
HUNTING THE EXTREME can be tough on anybody. The cold weather can affect you in ways that most can’t even imagine; but it’s even more impactful when it comes to using archery equipment. Unlike a rifle that will usually preform in most conditions, a bow takes special care at all times. With its many parts it’s
a lot more fragile and requires specific attention to detail. These details combined with a few rules and other needs will allow bowhunters to brave even the toughest of conditions. Hunting the far north during January and February can get brutal – negative temperatures and fierce winds combined with snow and ice can be tough, not only physically, but mentally as well. Making sure you have everything in order and are prepared long before you leave is the key to not only success, but, in most cases, survival. During the winter there aren’t a whole lot of seasons open for big game in Arctic Alaska. The hunts that are open are considered subsistence and are usually for residents, but as the year progresses nonresident hunts become available, with spring bears being the most popular. Black bear hunting is legendary come May and June, especially in the southern
part of the state. But as you head north the muskox and grizzly become kings. Muskox and bear hunting can be tough if you are new to it – even more so if you go unguided. Most hunts occur when the thermometer is well below zero and the area you have a tag for is about the size of Iowa. To add to the adventure you have to get to your hunting area and find the animal or animals you’re after in some of the most miserable weather you can experience. Plus, in these extreme temperature ranges you have to be able to shoot your bow where shot placement and shooting in general can be quite a challenge.
UNLIKE THE LOWER 48, most of the big game seasons here in Alaska end in September, so by March, unless you have been shooting indoors or in some kind of league, getting back in the groove of shooting can be tough. You also have DECEMBER 2014
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to remember that you will Your bow hunting equipment will surely take be shooting outside in who a beating in the winter. Keep your bow in a knows what kind of position, case in the sled until you get to your hunting destination, and specifically, when you find bundled up in more clothes your target and begin to stalk it. than imaginable. Practice is (PAUL D. ATKINS) a must, and getting your gear to perform in these situations is the key to filling your tag. Whether you are bow hunting or using a rifle, there are a couple things that will enhance the performance besides making it a little safer. One of the first things I do to get ready is to store my bow outside. This way it can acclimate to the cold weather and reduce any stress that can be caused from sudden temperature changes. Bow limbs and risers suddenly taken from a warm environment to extreme cold can go into what I’ll call “shock” and crack; even worse, they can explode. I learned this the hard way many years ago while shooting in my own backyard. It was cold – below zero – and after a couple of shots that felt totally had magically appeared on both limbs. wrong, I found the problem. Two cracks Expensive lesson learned, but luckily no
PROPER SHOOTING IN WINTER A lot of people wonder about shooting bows and arrows in the extreme, whether it is Alaska or Montana, and anywhere the thermometer drops below zero. Questions always arise: How does a bow hold up in subfreezing and subzero temperatures? Will the bow’s riser explode? Will arrows even fly? I’ve shot outside amid very cold weather and have only had a couple of cracked limbs, but nothing else. Polar bear hunters of the far north have been consistently doing it for years and very successful at it. However, that doesn’t mean something can’t go wrong, so always use precaution when shooting in cold weather. My routine is to set my bow and ar78 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
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rows outside the night before, usually in the Arctic entry way or the “Kunnichuk,” as it is called here in the far north. Taking any weapon from normal inside temperatures to the extreme opposite can be a shock and cause malfunction with any weapon. For example, I know a lot of hunters here in the Arctic who store their rifles in the garage or even leave them outside. Arrows will fly in cold weather, if it’s carbon or aluminum. The cold air will have an effect on shot placement due to the dense air current caused as the arrow goes through the air. Just make sure you’re accurate when it comes to hitting your target. As far as targets go, I’ve learned that
one was hurt. Shooting a bow or anything in general, is about as grand an experience as I can think of. But shooting it in the extreme cold isn’t much fun. Besides the layers and layers of clothing, you have to shoot around you also have to be able to feel the trigger on your release and actually touch your riser. For me this is a tough ordeal. Most people can shoot with gloves on, and there are several shooting gloves made specifically for bow hunters. The problem, however, is they are not made for hunting muskox at 35 below zero. I have tried to shoot with the big bulky type of gloves made for the Arctic, but they just don’t work. I’ve also shot bare-handed. The burning feeling of skin peeling off your hands isn’t a pleasant one, nor is the frostbite that usually occurs afterwards. I’ve found that cotton glove liners or any of the Sitka line work really well. They fit nicely into an oversized set of mittens along with shooting block-type layered foam targets for practice is the thing to do in cold weather. Arrows are pulled easily from these targets; whereas the opposite is true for the dense foam targets used for many 3-D tournaments. Arrows are almost impossible to pull, as foam tends to shrink and wrap itself around the shaft, especially carbon shafts. Personally, I don’t shoot outside much anymore, especially during the winter and spring months. I rent the local high school gym on a monthly basis and store my targets there. Each week a group of bowhunters and I get together and shoot. It has become more than just shooting our bows. We have formed a league, which helps with our preparation and creates a fellowship among hunters. If you have access to somewhere inside I highly encourage it. PA
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Spring bear hunting usually starts in late March, when the temperature has warmed up enough for a bear or two to investigate. For the bowhunter it is still winter, and even though the sun may be shining you still have to keep bundled up during the day. (PAUL D. ATKINS)
your release. When the moment of truth arrives shed the mittens and you’re all set.
TRAVELING TO THE place you’re going to hunt this time of year can be a challenge too. Most winter/spring muskox or grizzly hunts are done by the use of snow machines and sleds. Not unlike getting in your truck or quad and driving to your favorite place to hunt deer or other animals, snow machines are the normal mode of transport for these types of hunts.
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You’ll not only have a snow machine, but also a sled that you pull behind. The sled is to haul all your gear that you will need, and, in some cases, keep you alive. It is also used to get your trophy back home. Most people who hunt want to get away from it all and experience the solitude of the great outdoors. So if your plans are to chase muskox or bears in the Arctic, then this is about as far away as you can get. Cell phones don’t work, so before you leave you need to make sure you have everything you need to
stay alive. A few years ago I was hunting muskox near Nome when a bad storm rolled in and we had a complete whiteout. If it weren’t for good gear and being properly prepared I wouldn’t be writing this. Archery equipment will literally take a beating when it comes to hunting in the Arctic. Unlike a rifle that you can easily sling over your shoulder, a bow must be properly stored in a case inside your sled until you get to the place you plan to hunt; or more specifically when you locate an animal and start the stalk. Like fall hunting, when using a transporter and room is an issue, soft bow cases work really well and require very little room. I usually wrap an extra set of clothes around my bow and put it in the case. That way, after 80 miles of frozen ocean and bone-jarring tundra, your equipment comes out in one piece. Clothing also has to be considered. I think I mentioned it gets cold, and to stay warm you have to be properly dressed and still be able to hunt. Most people
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There are times when you should probably not attempt a bowhunt. This was one of them. When the author left to go in search of sheep it was a balmy minus 20 degrees, but by the time he got there it had dropped to minus 40. (PAUL D. ATKINS)
who hunt in northern climates are literally dressed to kill, complete with parka and a good set of bibs; these work great, but for a bowhunter they can sometimes be rather restricting. I have tried to eliminate as much bulk as possible and still stay warm. I have found that wool base layers work wonders in the extreme. Garments made by First Lite are one such product that I highly recommend. Worn next to the skin and without the itch they will keep you extremely warm in the coldest temperatures. Combine that with a few extra layers, bunny boots and a goose-down coat with
an oversized white jacket as camouflage work really well, allowing the bowhunter to comfortably shoot when the time comes.
A TYPICAL WINTER hunt for muskox or even bears usually requires a hunter to either cut a track or find a high place and glass. Most people think that these animals are easy to see against the barren white wonderland, but surprisingly they are not. If it’s a sunny day and there is a glare, they are very hard to find, and even more so when your binoculars fog over from your breath or just holding
them close to your face. Even though most binocular makers say theirs are fog-proof, they are not, so take a cleaning cloth. During late winter and early spring, muskox can be found high in the mountains or surrounding hills, and, like most animals, when the sun is bright, they tend to move to the south side of slopes to gather warmth and feed. Bears will do the same thing and usually can be found close to their old den where they spent the winter. Finding a high place out of the wind to glass and then planning your stalk has worked well for me and has provided some pretty exciting moments. One of the first things I learned while bowhunting in Alaska is that hunting in the fall versus hunting in the winter are two totally different events. Hunting with a bow in the winter is hard and many people don’t understand how tough it is, if not almost impossible. I guess that’s why I like it so much. The cold temperatures, coupled with the deep snow, make it a most extreme chal-
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CHECKLIST FOR WINTER HUNTS Bowhunting in extreme conditions – whether hot or cold – takes a lot of preparation. I always make a list of the things I need and make double sure that I have them. Certain items can make the hunt more comfortable and in most cases save your life. The items I always carry in my backpack are: Satellite phone and extra battery GPS with extra batteries
Butane lighters or waterproof matches with some type of fire starting material. You never know when you might get wet and need to warm up. Extra clothes, especially gloves, socks and an extra beanie. Sweat will accumulate after a hard climb. Extra release Allen wrenches Archery accessory kit Duct tape
lenge. The wind can also be brutal. You get within range only to have a wind gust of 30-plus-mph blow you completely off the intended target. You then lose your shot window and the next thing you see is your animal on the next mountain range. It has happened to me several times. But the real killer is the temperature. The first year I attempted to hunt Dall
sheep in the Brooks Range it was 24 below zero. It was my first sheep hunt and I wanted more than anything a chance at killing a ram. Bowhunting sheep in the cold mountains is the ultimate challenge, and for me just being able to hunt on my tag was a dream come true. Six stalks later I didn’t even get close. The only thing I got out of that hunt was frostbite on my face and
Multi-tool Water bottle Food such as energy bars, nuts, berries or raisins Binoculars with at least a 10X and a spotting scope A high-quality sleeping bag Small tent in case I’m not staying in a cabin or I get stuck out in the mountains. This is by no means a list for everybody; it’s just the bare necessities that I take. But always make sure you have everything you need and are prepared. PA some very cold fingers and toes. It was just part of the challenge of a frigid winter hunt. ASJ Editor’s note: Paul Atkins is an outdoor writer and a contributing writer for Alaska Sporting Journal. He has written hundreds of articles on hunting big game throughout North America and Africa. Paul lives in Kotzebue, Alaska.
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THE PTARMIGAN PTEAM WORK TOGETHER FOR UPLAND BIRD HAUL
Jaime Lyons (far left), Bixler McClure and the author had success hunting ptarmigan on the Kenai Peninsula. Hunting in pairs as a team – with a “spotter” and “shooter” – increases the odds of successfully hunting difficult-to-spot ptarmigan in snowy conditions. (JEN SMOLA)
BY KRYSTIN MCCLURE
T
he public cabin we reserved for the weekend sits on a bluff overlooking a narrow lake and the bottom of a deep valley. In the dead of winter, when we receive four hours of sunlight, a visitor to the cabin will never see the orb of the sun. The cold air settles on the lake, shrouding everything in frost. The wood stove in the cabin is blaring, keeping the cabin warm. But we are not inside en-
joying that warmth. We brave the cold in pursuit of one goal: ptarmigan. Ptarmigan are small upland game birds that have a seasonal plumage. They turn white in the winter to blend in with their snowy surroundings. Unlike most game birds, ptarmigan prefer to walk rather than fly, and any discerning hunter will notice a hillside peppered by their tracks. Their white camouflage is so effective that we’ve stepped on them with our snowshoes, causing quite a fright
for both parties. For those looking for a respite from winter and are willing to cram a hike in four hours of light, winter ptarmigan hunting offers a true challenge. The key to success? Teamwork.
No “I” in team My husband, Bixler, and I have been hunting ptarmigan together for years. We always use teamwork in our bird hunts because ptarmigan hunting is extremely unpredictable. The birds either chose to hide, fly, or run. They can be DECEMBER 2014
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You can see how a white ptarmigan can blend into a fresh dusting of snow. The natural camo makes these upland birds so difficult to spot, the author has occasionally stepped on them in snowshoes, causing a few scares for all the hunters. (BIXLER MCCLURE)
easy to find, or downright impossible to spot. We use different methods of splitting up to flush a flock or staying together to play “spotter” and “shooter.” With this we almost always come out successful. Ptarmigan hunting with any number of people is not an every-man-for-himself (or every-woman-for-herself) deal; it requires a teamfirst approach. We had never hunted with another couple when we invited our friends up to our favorite lakeside cabin nestled in a deep valley for the weekend. Our friends, Jaime and Jen, are our certified doppelgangers and have almost all the same interests and life philosophies as us. We were excited when we ran into them along the highway holding shotguns, and we described our method of bird hunting: I use a Ruger 10-22 and Bixler uses his 12-gauge shotgun. We figured they would be the perfect candidates to take to the cabin. Our last friend who went hunting with us just complained about the cold. 88 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
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Traversing the snow One Friday afternoon, as the shadows were growing long and the sun was dipping below the horizon, the four of us hiked up to the cabin. It was a low snow year in Alaska, so Bixler and I were wearing ice cleats to counteract the icy trail from a past thaw. Slowly, we climbed into the hanging valley rimmed with willows, well above the treeline. There was still a fair amount of snow, but it was covered with a hard crust; I frowned at the conditions. Without the soft, fresh snow it can be difficult to find a ptarmigan flock. By the time we crossed the lake and reached the cabin, the sun had set. The air was still and the only noise, other than our persistent laughing, was the ominous lake reverb. We had the wood stove roasting the inside of the cabin, but the four of us were too lazy to tend to it at night. I woke up first the next morning and found Bixler and our doppelgangers hiding from the cold in their cocoons.
A thick frost was hanging over the lake. We started the day in the early morning light (which was at 10 a.m. this time of year) by hiking up the saddle behind our cabin. Other than the stunning views of the Kenai Peninsula Mountains, there was not much to see in terms of wildlife. Jaime was convinced he saw a bear, but we figured it was a wolverine judging by the tracks. I could tell that Jaime was antsy to use his grandfather’s double-barrel shotgun and Jen wanted to try out her 20-gauge. We returned to the cabin to warm up to our morning fire and headed out for a walk on the lake. Since the cabin felt like a sauna, I put the beer out on the porch before we left.
A bird frenzy The four of us walked along the lake listening to the reverb sounds of moving water under the thick ice. We reached an avalanche slide, which had pushed up large chunks of ice that refroze into an abstract ice mound that stretched
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PTARMIGAN BASICS
Since ptarmigan have a knack for preferring to congregate in higher elevations, it can make for difficult hunting but a chance to see spectacular scenery on the Kenai Peninsula. (BIXLER MCCLURE)
almost across the lake. Jaime climbed onto one of the upturned ice chunks. As he reached the top, a ďŹ&#x201A;ock of ptarmigan bolted up the avalanche slide. What we had intended to be a walk on the lake turned into a frenzy. Immediately, we assembled into a shooting order. Jaime took the high road,
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climbing up the slide onto the summer private trail that ringed the lake. Jen followed and stayed lower while Bixler climbed up a willow patch next to the slide. I stayed on the lake and watched the carefully orchestrated procession of shooting ptarmigan with shotguns. One person would yell when they wanted
Ptarmigan hunting is an excellent fall through spring activity in Alaska. Be sure to check local regulations for limits and open dates. Ptarmigan hunting is great with a .22 rifle and a scope. If you want to shoot on the wing, a 20-gauge or 12-gauge shotgun offers exciting opportunities. In general, ptarmigan tend to prefer higher elevations. Hike or snowshoe until you see them, see their sign or see their tracks (often going shrub to shrub). If you see or hear one, stop, look and listen for more: they often travel in flocks. If you spook them, watch carefully where they fly off to, as you can often reapproach them. KM
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Note the ptarmigan tracks behind and to the right of Bixler McClure. These upland birds prefer to walk than fly. (BIXLER MCCLURE)
BIRD WITH SOME PULL These sandwiches are a play on the traditional pulled-pork sandwich, and are a great way to add some Southern cooking to your home in the dead of winter!
Ingredients Several ptarmigan, meat removed from body and bones Chili powder Chipotle powder Garlic salt Pepper Your favorite barbecue sauce Blue cheese crumbles, or any other shredded or 92 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
sliced cheese Buns or rolls
Instructions Remove meat from ptarmigan and cut up into little pieces. Add into slow cooker or Dutch oven with chili powder, chipotle powder, garlic salt, pepper, and barbecue sauce. Cook on low until tender (with a slow cooker, it could go all day). When done, shred meat with two forks and add into a frying pan with a little more barbecue sauce. Cook over medium-high heat for a couple more minutes. Serve on a high-quality roll or bun, and top with your favorite cheese. Coleslaw and salad makes a perfect companion to this nontraditional ptarmigan dish! BIXLER MCCLURE
DECEMBER 2014
to shoot or reload and the other yelled when they retrieved a bird. I stood on the lake and watched, not being able to shoot birds on the wing with a 10-22. I walked over to the next avalanche slide and spotted a ptarmigan hiding in the snow on the slide. As I took aim I saw another one, then another, and continued to pick off birds until I nearly filled my bird strap. The remaining flock flew into the vicinity of the shotgunners, and I signaled incoming birds. Bixler yelled that he had reloaded shot shells and started to pursue the new flock I’d found. He shot a few, then stopped and signaled to Jen to reload. Jaime followed behind her, having only two shots in his double-barrel shotgun. The entire process leapfrogged until the last known bird was bagged. Bixler, Jaime, and Jen returned to the lake, each with a handful of birds. I showed them my nearly full strap of birds. Bix remarked that he was glad I could join in on the fun with a .22, and we continued to walk down on the lake pursuing more ptarmigan. As the day turned to dusk, the cold swept over us and we grew tired of carrying the birds. Our final count was 22 birds in total, and we returned to the cabin for a celebratory beer. I picked up the six pack and starting passing around the beers, only to realize they were frozen solid. Since this was a serious problem, I was assigned to carefully thaw out the beer on the wood stove while the rest of the crew-cleaned ptarmigan. After a dinner of ptarmigan stew and icy-cold brews, we remarked on a job well done. The temperature that night dropped well below zero on the lake. We all snuggled into our sleeping bags and none of us bothered to tend the fire like the night before. Despite the biting cold and diminished daylight, we came back from our hunt successful. Our doppelganger friends will be invited onto future ptarmigan hunts because we realized that the four of us make one fantastic bird-hunting team! ASJ Editor’s note: For more Alaska adventures on contributors Krystin and Bixler McClure, check out their website, alaskagraphy.com.
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NO SYMPATHY
WHEN TRADITION FAILS BY STEVE MEYER
H
unting is in my bloodline as surely as it is in my English setters. It is our lifeblood, without which life would be dismal. As a hunter, I am deeply concerned with federal agencies adopting regulations that override the State of Alaska, Department of Fish and Game regulations adopted by the Alaska Board of Game (BOG). Federal agencies operate with an extreme level of autonomy. Ideology of the individuals driving the various federal agency ships plays an extremely significant role in each regulatory process. While there is a public comment process, having been involved in several, there is no opportunity to address the “ship drivers” as a concerned member of the public being affected and the process is simply an appeasement exercise. Public hearings scheduled by the National Park Service in regional communities across Alaska regarding regulation changes for hunting on NPS Preserve land will certainly not be an exception. The hearings began on October 21 in Palmer and ended on November 20 in Naknek. Public comment was also being solicited by the Internet – most notably on Facebook – nationwide. Allowing individual ideology to dictate regulations contrary to ADFG can’t happen if Alaskans are to retain even a semblance of the outdoor lifestyle that is, for so many of us who call this state home, the primary reason for residing in Alaska. Critical to the discussion is the vast amount of federal land in Alaska (60 percent of the total NPS land in the U.S. is in Alaska), which includes NPS, U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, Bureau of Land Management and U.S. Forest Service lands that fall under the same potential
for ideological changes that could be potentially catastrophic to Alaskans. Except the regulations being proposed by the NPS would not allow hunting on National Park preserve lands by way of some recent BOG regulations that include: the taking of wolf and coyote pups as well as adults during the early summer; the use of artificial light to kill black bear sows and cubs at their dens; and the baiting of brown bears. ADFG claims these regulations have nothing to do with predator control. They claim these methods are simply traditional and therefore have been adopted – after how many years that they were prohibited? My normal sentiment falls staunchly in the ADFG corner. In this case it is astonishing to me that ADFG can suggest the killing of any pre-adult animal, much less cubs and pups, is anything but predator control. If there is a tradition that sets precedent it is that babies are off-limits across the board. That is, unless there is some incredibly definitive evidence that not doing so will be of great harm. In other words, biologically justify the action or do not adopt it. These regulations didn’t arise from “tradition,” they arose from pressure from rural communities and perhaps other entities demanding ADFG produce more ungulates for harvest. The hallmark of the ADFG regulatory process is supposed to be based on sound biological practice, and while tradition may be considered, it certainly should not be a significant basis of the game management process. The irony of the ADFG response to the federal regulations proposed is their denying that predator control is the issue, evidently to try and appease the federal authorities who object. Make a regulation change and own its intent; anything less is simply a subtle form of pandering. The litmus test in most of what we
do as a population is the “reasonable” factor. If a random group of people are questioned about a topic and the majority concludes it is reasonable, you have a winner. Like it or not, when it involves federal issues, the random group includes the entire country. Do we really expect to believe that a random section of the public (including hunters) is going to say, “Yeah, killing cubs and pups is fine; sounds pretty traditional?” Tradition cannot be the answer to game management. People in every corner of the world have been subject to the evolutions time presents. Ask any hunter if they have been displaced from “traditional” hunting areas and everyone will have a story to tell. Were that not the case, given the demands of human population growth, there would be nothing left. It is difficult to imagine any segment of the world’s population that has not had traditions go the way of the passenger pigeon because of progress. Those same folks aren’t denying the modern conveniences and development that have eliminated some traditions. The most disappointing aspect in all of this is that ADFG and the BOG fell to political pressure from a scant few and evidently believed that there would be no repercussions. We Alaskans are seriously fed up with federal intervention in most of what we do. In this case the BOG actions are doing much more harm to hunters than they are helping because the state cannot back their play and thus have invited the attention that will surely result in additional regulations that further restrict Alaskan hunters on federal land. When professionals lack the foresight to see the ramifications of legalizing the killing of baby animals and then deny the intent, our problems are much deeper than federal intervention. ASJ DECEMBER 2014
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TIPPING YOUR HAND
Northern pike are ubiquitous in the Alaskan Interior and can be found in lakes and rivers throughout the region. A snow machine can get you to some epic winter ice fishing. (DENNIS MUSGRAVES)
ICE FISHING FOR PIKE WITH ‘TIP-UPS’
BY DENNIS MUSGRAVES
C
hasing flags on a frozen lake is something I look forward to every winter fishing season. Setting a spread of tip-up devices for northern pike on a remote lake has the makings of all the right outdoor stuff during Alaska’s cold winter slumber. The journey to get there – time spent with friends outdoors and the anticipation of a bright red flag springing skyward – results in a chorus of “Fish on!” I never get tired of running breathlessly to answer the indicator, peering into the ice hole and watching fishing line rapidly leave the tip-up’s spinning spool. There is life under the ice.
NORTHERN PIKE ARE widely dispersed in Interior Alaska. The fish live in nearly every river and most lakes in the region. Although there are locations accessible by road for pike fishing, the odds of catching good numbers or big fish are
lower due to the amount of angler pressure. Getting to the best locations for winter fishing requires either a reliable snow machine or aircraft fitted with skis. Dead-baiting a tip-up is my favorite method for catching pike (often called a water wolf or Mr. Toothy) in Alaska. Fishing a tip-up mechanism is not extremely technical; however, there are specific factors in how to best deploy and present bait in order to obtain the greatest chances to land a big toothy. A tip-up is a free-standing mechanism used for ice fishing without holding an actual fishing rod. The components consist of a base, spool (which holds line), and a flag or indicator. Using a tip-up allows fisherman to fish multiple holes at the same time, fish various depths at once, or work various positions on dropoffs or other bottom structure. Tip-up devices are available in a variety of models and styles, so deciding on which to buy the first time can be a bit
confusing. A basic wooden unit is inexpensive, easy to set up and essentially all you need to get started. Elaborate units will cost more, though they will include features like insulated covers, spools with handles, lighted indicators (for fishing during limited visibility), and enabled motion (for no-touch jigging action). No matter which model tip-up you decide to use, I suggest spooling the device with a braided or Dacron-type of line, with a minimum of 30-pound test for hand-lining these aggressive and large fish to the surface. Hanging dead bait in the water column is a proven method for icing pike. Hungry fish are naturally attracted to the large stationary silhouette, which is unassuming and appears as an easy-looking meal for the opportunistic predator. In addition to being an easy target, bait provides the ideal scent and taste for the fish. The aroma bleeds into the DECEMBER 2014
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A tip-up, a free-standing mechanism used for ice fishing without holding an actual fishing rod, allows anglers to fish a variety of holes simultaneously. (DENNIS MUSGRAVES)
TARGETING NORTHERN PIKE What
surrounding water stimulating their senses and attracting them to the presentation. Whitefish, herring, hooligan and eel are all popular choices for dead bait, and can either be harvested during the year to be frozen for later use, or purchased at local grocery stores or sporting goods outlets. I’ve found that frozen whole herring approximately 6 to 8 inches in length work very effectively. Keeping the herring slightly frozen allows for easy placement of a hook and keeps the bait on longer as it becomes soft from being water logged. Dead bait can be rigged on hooks using several methods. Simply piercing the bait with a single hook can get the job done. However using a quick-strikestyle rig is my preferred technique when using a tip-up. Quick-strike rigs can be constructed easily or can be purchased prefabricated. The advantages for using this adjustable rig allows bait to hang in a horizontal presentation while suspended in the water column and the ability to set a hook as soon as the fish bites. Additionally, prior to sending my bait down the hole on a quick strike, I like to cut slits along the sides of the fish. This allows the juices and scent to disperse in the water and attract hungry prowling pike towards my offering. Make sure you check the Alaska Department of Fish and Game sportfishing 100 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
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regulations before you start hanging bait to catch pike. Regulations for some bodies of water in Alaska do not allow bait, and sportfishing for northern pike may be seasonally controlled, restricted, or closed. The types of hooks and amount of lines an angler can put in the water also strictly regulated.
PIKE CAN BE found feeding in basically two ways: an offensive patrolling pattern, or close to the bottom in ambush mode, simply waiting for a meal to come by. The sunniest portion of the day is when they are at their most aggressive. Finding active fish is my initial goal when starting out the day. I like to cover a wide range of possible areas to find feeders by initially drilling holes in varied depths of water, from 5 feet to 20 feet, and keeping my bait close to the bottom (1 to 2 feet). Presenting an offering off the bottom in this fashion allows those fish to see the bait above them, especially in shallower waters. I can accomplish positioning bait very effectively and checking depths by using portable fishing electronics. Once I locate active feeding fish I concentrate my efforts in those places. Setting a good spread of tip-ups makes for good preparation in catching fish. Ideally, you should have a good feel for employing your tip-up and rigging
Northern pike (Esox lucius) have an elongated body and head, which tapers to a wide flat mouth (shaped much like a duck bill). Their dorsal fin is located far back, near the tail end, on their bodies. The fish possess many replaceable sharp teeth which line the top and bottom jaws, roof of their mouth, and on their tongue. Coloration varies depending on their environment. Most fish appear olive green, with lighter colored green bar-like spotted patterns on their sides and shades of yellow to white on their belly. Fish weighing 4 to 10 pounds are common and larger fish of 20 or more pounds are caught occasionally. Anglers often call the fish “water wolf” or “Mr. Toothy,” since the predatory fish have voracious appetites and a mouthful of razor-sharp cutters.
Where Pike are naturally present over a wide area in Alaska and inhabit both river and lakes. The Interior, Seward Peninsula, and southwest Bristol Bay drainages all host good populations of fish. The northern pike found in Southcentral Alaska are unwelcome, considered an invasive species. Many accessible areas are available by vehicle or foot; however, remote locations away from the road system offer better opportunities for fishing quantity and quality. Access using a snow machine or aircraft fitted with skis will provide anglers searching for a trophy-sized fish the best option. Popular locations in Alaska for remote winter fishing for large pike include George Lake, Volkmar Lake, Alexander Lake, and the Susitna River drainage area.
How A tip-up is a free-standing mechanism used for ice fishing that allows anglers to catch fish without holding an actual fishing rod. The device consists of a base, spool (which holds line), and a flag or indicator. Using a tip-up allows you to fish multiple holes at the same time, fish various depths at once, or work various positions on drop-offs or
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your bait. Make sure you’re familiar with your equipment by practicing actual setup of the device. Also, ensure your equipment is rigged and ready prior to leaving in order to maximize actual fishing time. Obtaining and reviewing a bathometric map of the lake you’re fishing will also help prepare you for plotting a plan of attack for a setup, and having electronics to assist in confirming water depths will certainly be helpful. Targeting pike using a tip-up system is easy to master. Setting a spread can offer anglers at all skill levels some great winter fishing opportunities. Of course, anticipating a flag going up, running to the hole and feeling the head shakes of a potential trophy-sized pike is pretty special also; it’s something I will always look forward to experiencing every winter. Not to mention you’ll take in some breathtaking scenery along the way, especially if you have the opportunity to travel by aircraft. Seeing the wild
To reach snow-covered Interior Alaska’s lakes and rivers that are full of northern pike, a floatplane with skis makes for a convenient transportation option. (DENNIS MUSGRAVES)
snow-covered landscape from 3,000 feet presents a unique perspective and deepened sense of appreciation for the place I call home. ASJ
Editor’s note: Author Dennis Musgraves belongs to a group called the Alaskan Salmon Slayers, anglers who fish a variety of species all over the state. More chronicles of their adventures can be found at alaskansalmonslayers.com. other bottom structure. Tip-up devices are available in a variety of models and styles, so deciding which one for the first time can be a bit confusing. A basic wooden unit is inexpensive, easy to set up, and essentially all you need to get started. Elaborate units will cost more, though they will include features like insulated covers, spools with handles, lighted indicators (for fishing during limited visibility), and enabled motion (for no-touch jigging action). No matter which model tip-up you decide on to use, I suggest spooling the device with a braided or Dacron-type line with a minimum of 30-pound test for hand-lining aggressive and large fish to the surface. Strict rules apply for sportfishing in Alaska, and individuals should be aware of all the regulations before they cast a line. Current regulations, additional information and emergency orders can be found at the Alaska Department of Fish & Game website, adfg.alaska.gov. DM
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Rick Richardson of Harry Gaines Kenai River Fishing Guides helps land a Kenai silver salmon. While the area is known for its past king runs, silvers largely come in after commercial fishermen pull their nets for other species. (STEVE MEYER)
WHEN SILVERS ARE KING WITH LOW RETURNS FROM ITS FAMED KING SALMON, KENAI SILVERS ARE PROVIDING SUCCESS, MEMORIES
BY STEVE MEYER
I
caught my first salmon in Alaska on a sunny mid-August day in 1971. Fishing the Kenai Keys back then was quiet, and, if you were a gregarious sort, rather lonely. My family members were the only people anywhere in sight that day – memory clouds with age – but it seems like there was one boat that drifted by all day. Pitching big T-Spoons, the lure of choice for silver, or coho, salmon in
those days, it wasn’t long before a big silver nailed my lure and delighted us all with his dancing and thrashing across the surface of the fast current. With a racing heart I fought that fish, scared to breathe and barely able to move for fear of losing it. It seemed like forever for the fish to tire and finally come to hand – a bright 14-pounder. It had been the biggest fish I had ever caught by about 10 pounds. No small wonder that silvers have been my favorite salmon to catch ever since.
The ensuing years and the “discovery” of the world-class king salmon that cruised up the Kenai would forever change the face of the river. By the mid1980s the face of the river had gone from a wild-and-scenic 82-mile stretch of serenity to an aquatic superhighway. From mid-May through July anglers from all over the world relentlessly pursued the world’s largest king salmon. The river throbbed with boat traffic from sun up to sun down and there is damn little sun down during DECEMBER 2014
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those months. Adding to the congestion, the huge number of sockeye salmon plying their trade during the same time period were targeted by even more anglers. By the 1990s, if you asked a local resident in casual conversation if they had been on the river, most would say, “No, I don’t go
on the river until the silvers come.” In those earlier times, August 1, the day after king salmon season closed, it was as if a switch was thrown and the river was back to its normal peaceful self and a pleasant place to fish. Boats were anchored, motors shut off, few back-trolled, and there was little in the Jennifer Koch, a visitor from Cleveland, Ohio, caught her first salmon on the trip. (STEVE MEYER)
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way of turbulence from boats running upriver to back-troll certain holes time after time. It was sort of like having a houseful of company too long. It was OK for a bit, but you were so glad to have your home back to yourself.
WE HAD SOME company at our place in August – Brian and Jennifer Koch from Cleveland, Ohio. Brian came up for a month of upland bird hunting on the Kenai, and Jennifer was here for a week to see some sights and do some fishing. My hunting and fishing partner, Christine Cunningham, and I have a good friend, Rick Richardson, who has guided anglers for Harry Gaines Kenai River Fishing Guides (907-262-5097; harrygaines.com) since before guides even had phone numbers here. Translated: he knows what he’s doing. Christine and I occasionally go fishing with Rick when he is taking a day off from guiding, so I contacted him to get Brian and Jennifer out for some silver fishing. He said, a bit to my surprise, “Be here at 4:30 a.m., and we’ll get a good spot.” With the upland season in full swing we were already tuned into the need for an early start, but it still seemed a bit odd for this relaxing time of year on the river. Walking down to the dock at 4:30 that morning, Rick was busy getting the boat ready. Reuben Hanke, the owner of Harry Gaines Fishing, was there seeing if anyone needed anything before heading out. Shortly we were on our way in the dark with Rick announcing it was probably best to sit with backs to the bow. If we hit something, it would be a surprise; he was kidding, of course, but negotiating the Kenai in the dark is best left to those who run the river every day. There was little fear that Rick didn’t know where he was going. Rain started pelting our rain gear a few minutes into the trip on a typical late-August day. Slowing as we neared the “hole,” Rick was muttering under his breath, suggesting some character flaws in the person operating the boat that was already there. So we moved upriver a bit and tossed the anchor. The anchor line
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tightened and Rick announced we had to pull up and move 2 feet to the outside, accomplished in short order. And therein marks the difference in the individual who is on the water every day, reading conditions as they evolve. Two feet might seem silly to the average fisherman, but not to these guys. It was still too dark to put lines in the water, so we sat back and enjoyed Rick’s tales of the previous day’s boatload of fishermen and their ability to consume copious amounts of beer without falling out of the boat. As we sat, numerous sets of running lights went by as others sought their special place on the river. When it was time for lures in the water there were boats lined up in front, in back and to the side of us – some so close to each other the tangling of line would be inevitable with a hard-fighting silver. As the lines went down with Kwikfish wrapped with sardines, Rick announced that the bank side of the boat would catch fish first, leaving Brian and
I to watch as Jennifer hooked the first silver of the day and Christine another shortly thereafter. Rick explained the dynamics of the river, the tide and how coho salmon conduct their business in a given set of circumstances. The tide was on its way out, visible as the water level along the bank dropped noticeably. Yet again we pulled anchor and moved out perhaps 3 feet. “Now everyone will catch fish,” Rick announced. “Try not to hook too many humpies.” Humpies, or pink salmon, can be a curse for silver anglers. Running upriver right along with the silvers from early August until early September, these aggressive biters will hit almost anything that gets in their way. Most run a bit higher in the water column than silvers, and the trick to avoid them is staying right along the bottom with your lure. Even so, we still hooked a few easily and immediately identified by the mostly dead weight on the line
versus the coho that virtually always clear the surface in an attempt to shake the hook. Silvers put up a great fight, and when coupled with a strong current, they can be a handful. Rick had a buoy attached to the anchor line. When a fish was on we simply unhooked from the anchor and followed it down. Each time we cut the anchor loose and floated downstream there were more boats lined up in the silver alleys. By 11 a.m. my line was the last in the water, everyone else limiting out with nice size silvers, including the largest that Brian caught, that would go close to 14 pounds. Hoping to best his fish I still had the last chance, but it wasn’t to be. My last was also a good fish that would go 12 pounds, but not quite big enough. The guy who was at the hole first was still sitting there as we left, and from what we saw, would be there a while longer to limit out. Continued on page 120
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of boats in the water. Christine and I had fished with Rick the year before (she calls our outings “fishing with the duck men” because of our rabid love for duck hunting), and while we had not traveled as many river miles, it didn’t seem like there had been so many boats. It seems silver fishing has taken over where the king salmon closures have left off. It’s certainly been a boon for the local economy, and with the silver runs growing the past couple of years and the limit reduced to two fish, it also seems unlikely the run will be hurt by added pressure. This is particularly true since there is little in the way of commercial fishing pressure on Kenai silvers. Nets that would have much impact are out of the water by the time the largest numbers of silvers are running up Cook Inlet. Silver run strength on the Kenai isn’t counted in the way of king and sockeye salmon are. Mostly early indicators from commercial harvest, lower river numbers and angler success determine the general health of the runs. Given the time of year and the resultant weather conditions (lots of rain and often cold) it seems unlikely the Kenai silver run will ever see the kind of pressure that king salmon did. But due to the growing popularity of coho fishing, perhaps
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Brian and Jennifer Koch (left), Christine Cunningham and the author had a full-limit day on the Kenai. (STEVE MEYER)
the Alaska Department of Fish and Game will elect at some point in the future to more closely monitor spectacular game fish that are also terrific table fare.
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BACK AT THE dock, Reuben was again on hand to help with unloading, weighing the big one, taking pictures and providing great conversation. When Christine and I fish with Rick we take our fish
home and care for them. On this day, with Brian and Jennifer the guests, Reuben took over the cleaning duties. He had a knife, a broad-blade Victorinox, which immediately made me decide I needed one too. Watching him work these fish was a treat, and there was no chance I could do what he did no matter what kind of knife I had. In the time it would take me to fillet our usual four fish, Ruben had the day’s catch filleted, trimmed and looking like they were ready for the supermarket showcase. Watching someone who is simply outstanding at what they do is always a bonus for me. Those 15 minutes were well worth the price of admission. When everything was put away we had a nice conversation in the office at the dock that is adorned with mounts and photographs that depict not just trophy fish, but a lifetime of living the outdoor life in Alaska. Rick and Reuben have lived the Alaska life to its fullest and it was a pleasure to hear their stories. ASJ
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From
FIELD FIRE To
KNOW THE SHRIMPIN’ BUSINESS GETTING READY FOR SHELLFISH SEASON BY SCOTT HAUGEN
W
inter is here, and with it comes time for planning the next hunting or fishing adventure. In terms of Alaska’s shellfishing opportunities, nothing is growing in popularity like shrimping. With liberal seasons and limits, recreational shrimping is getting bigger each season. Though Prince William Sound serves as the top shrimping destination for Anchorage area residents, there are other places around the Peninsula to explore, but none are as accessible as the waters out of Whittier. No matter where you go, there are basic pieces of gear you’ll need. Ladner Traps, with their personalized touch, are designed for Alaska waters and are being touted as the best round pots available to recreational shrimpers. It’s crafted from American-made aircraft stainless steel and twisted nylon, meaning it’s tough. These shrimp pots are specifically designed to save space, making hauling pots around rather easy. They stack on one another, and multiple pots barely take up more room than one. Rinse and take care of them and they’ll last 10 to 15 years. Make certain the pots you have are of legal size for Alaskan waters, as what works in some states might not in Alaska. Each pot has to be attached to a line, and the standard line length is usually 600 feet. If wanting longer, simply splice into it and you’re set. Some people will go with 900-foot ropes, and
Shrimping is quickly gaining popularity in Alaska, and now is the time to start preparing for the spring season. (SCOTT HAUGEN)
some up to 1,200 feet in deeper water, but 600 feet will usually suffice. Wherever you shrimp, try to keep about 15 percent of the line slack to account for tidal fluctuations. For a 600-foot line, this equates to about 90 feet of slack. There are two lines of choice: floating and sinking. While most people go
with a sinking line, floating lines are less likely to get hung up. Some people will join the two lines, running about 400 feet of floating line attached to the pot, then splicing in 200 feet of sinking line on the upper end. In my brief shrimping experience, not only is bait messy, it also gets conDECEMBER 2014
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From pots to ropes, buoys to baits, there are some key elements to know when it comes to catching shrimp in Alaska. (SCOTT HAUGEN)
sumed in a few hours, meaning it quits attracting shrimp. Enter the pellet bait, specifically, the Super Prawn Bait brand. “These pellets have a two-to-three- day lifespan in water,” shares Ross Donalson of the Donalson Company (888279-3025; donalsoncompanynet), Alaska’s largest dealer of pellet bait and shrimp pots. “Some people use cat food, and that works, but it quickly breaks down in the water due to sea lice, which is a problem. You want a bait that’ll work all day, so when you drop the pots in the morning and pick them up in the evening, after a day of fishing, shrimp are still coming in.” The bait pellets come in 6- and 22-pound buckets, and it takes less than a handful per bait jar. This, combined with the fact they’re clean and easy to work with and slowly break down in water, make them appealing - plus, they cost about the same as other bait. Be sure and get the bait jars with small holes, the ones specially designed to keep out sea lice. Last but not least, make sure to have a buoy to secure to your line. “I’ve seen a lot of people try to cut corners here, but don’t do it,” Donalson says. “You want the best buoy out there when dealing with the extreme tidal changes and rough waters of Alaska. It’s not worth saving a few bucks when you have a string of pots and 600 feet of line at stake.” Donalson suggests Polyform Buoys in either the A-1 or A-2 series in any color but red. Everyone uses red buoys, so pick a different color that’s easy to identify. Also, be sure and label your buoys with the personal information as outlined in the current Alaska Department of Fish and Game regulations. When shrimping, a fishing license is required, as is a shrimp permit. Seasons usually run April 15 to September 15, but now is the time to start preparing. Check current regulations on pot numbers and harvest limits before hitting the water. Now enjoy some of the best seafood Alaska has to offer. ASJ Editor’s note: Personally signed copies of Scott Haugen’s thrilling book, Hunting The Alaskan High Arctic, can be ordered by sending a check for $35 (free S&H) to Haugen Enterprises, P.O. Box Walterville, OR 97489, or order at scotthaugen.com. Haugen is the host of Trijicon’s The Hunt on the Sportsman Channel. Watch for him on Alaska Outdoors TV on the Outdoor Channel, starting in 2015. 126 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
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HUCKLEBERRY DEER STEAK by Vicki Harrod
½ chopped onion 1 chopped clove garlic 1 Tbsp chopped thyme 3 Tbsp olive oil 2/3 cup red wine 1 Tbsp currant jelly 1 cup huckleberries or blueberries 1 Tbsp butter - salt and pepper to taste - Michlitch’s Huckleberry BBQ Rub to taste Cover steak or loin with Michlitch’s Huckleberry BBQ Rub and grill until medium rare. While steak is cooking, cook onion, garlic, and thyme in olive oil until vegetables are translucent. Add wine and jelly, reduce mixture by half. Add huckleberries/blueberries and continue to cook until berries burst. Add butter, salt and pepper to taste, and remove from heat. Cover medium rare steaks with huckleberry sauce and enjoy! This recipe could use elk or antelope too
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From
FIELD FIRE To
SOUTHERN FAVORITE UP NORTH Grits
BY TIFFANY HAUGEN
T
hough shrimp season is still a ways off, you might have some stashed in the freezer. Be it fresh or frozen, shrimp and grits is a great comfort food, and December in Alaska is prime time for this dish. This is a shrimp recipe that works from breakfast to dinner and at any time of the year. This is a great way to feed a larger group (recipe easily doubles or triples) when you may not have a lot of shrimp to go around. Polenta is also a great substitution for the grits; just follow package directions but use half milk and half water, then add remaining ingredients listed under the grits portion of this recipe. For a little more zip, dice a jalapeno pepper and sauté along with the bell peppers.
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1½ cups water 1½ cups milk ½ teaspoon salt ¾ cup grits ½ cup grated cheddar cheese ¼ cup sliced green onion ½ teaspoon smoked paprika ⅛ teaspoon white pepper
Shrimp topping ½ pound shrimp, peeled and deveined 6 slices bacon, chopped ¼ cup sliced red onion ½ red bell pepper, thinly sliced ½ orange bell pepper, thinly sliced 2 teaspoons sliced garlic 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar Additional green onion for garnish In a skillet, fry bacon until crisp. Set bacon aside and reserve pan drippings.
In a medium saucepan on high heat, bring water, milk and salt to a low boil. Stir in grits, cover and reduce to low heat. Cook five to six minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat, stir in cheese, green onion, paprika and pepper. Cover and set aside. In the skillet the bacon was cooked in, sauté onions and peppers on medium-high heat until tender. Add shrimp, garlic and vinegar. Sauté until shrimp turns pink for three to four minutes. Editor’s note: For signed copies of Tiffany’s popular new book, Cooking Seafood, send a check for $20 (free S&H), to Haugen Enterprises, P.O. Box 275, Walterville, OR 97489. This and other cookbooks can also be ordered at tiffanyhaugen.com
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ALL I WANT FOR CHRISTMAS AN ALASKAN’S HOLIDAY WISH LIST BY JEFF LUND
T
he great philosopher and poet Michael Scott (Steve Carell’s lovable but awkwardly hilarious TV boss on The Office) once said, “Presents are the best way to show someone how much you care. It is like this tangible thing that you can point to and say, ‘Hey man, I love you this many dollars’ worth.” So for everyone out there who loves me, I’ve compiled a reasonable list of modest items which you can use as a sort of Christmas Love Registry and show me how much I mean to you.
1 2
Waterproof matches, a gift of survival. You want me to live, right?
In order to use the waterproof matches I’ll need to be somewhere doing something outside, so let’s call that somewhere Smithers, Canada, during steelhead season.
3
Since I’m in Canada during steelhead season, I’ll need a nice new spey rod with which to catch my steelhead. I currently own a Sage ONE single-handed 6-weight which is a sick stick for chasing rainbows on the lower Sacramento River, but I’ll need something which matches my quarry. A 14-foot, 8-weight, Sage Method spey rod is the ultimate fishing stick and is only $1,050. Pair it with a Sage reel for $750. I’ll even buy the $75 line, and I already have the tips.
The author swings his Sage 6-weight fly rod. He’s hoping to find a 14-foot, 8-weight spey rod to hit Alaska’s rivers and streams next summer. (JEFF LUND)
4
No one going to Canada to catch steelhead with a brand new fly rod wants to walk around the hotel looking like a hobo once the sun is down, so I’ll need an H&H STLHD t-shirt ($24.95) under my Mountain Hardwear Trekkin Flannel ($75) which will go under a Marmot Shadow Jacket ($350) – probably need a pair of Simms Extream pants ($199.95) so I don’t get arrested. Boom – happy. You want me to stay warm and dry, right?
5
OK, I’m sorry. I got a little out of hand. Forget the matches. Just a box of .270 cartridges for my rifle. That’s it.
6
You know my box of ammo would be put to better use if I had a better scope to stare at prey
through. I currently peep through a Weaver K-Series, which is a great scope for the money and pairs nicely with my stainless-steel, Savage 116 bolt-action .270 with accu-trigger, but since our love is not based on bargain, the Leupold VX-6 1-6 CDS power scope is just a cool G and it would be cool if I had one.
7
All this list making is making me hungry. I should go get some dinner. How about some caribou from Kotzebue? Airfare is $700 and a fiveday guided trip a mere $7,000.
8
When I get back I’ll spend a few days using my new Cabela’s Commercial-Grade Electric Grinder ($409.99) to put all the meat up. Perfect. You want me to eat, right?
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Otherwise, it’s a Grab Bag of Doritos.
9 10
It is the season of giving and love, so no matter which way you go, I’ll be happy.
Need a new scope? Yeah, so does our author. (JEFF LUND)
Or just any one item would also work. Except the matches – I already have those. ASJ
Cabela’s has a meat grinder the author has on his holiday list to process after one of his Alaskan deer hunts. (JEFF LUND)
STOCKING-STUFFER ALASKAN BOOKS It has taken me nine months to read 47 pages of John Gierach’s latest book, All Fishermen Are Liars. I’ve read other books in that time, but that one stands out because of my epic inability to get it done. The problem isn’t the words. I have 14 Gierach books and greatly enjoy reading them, but the problem is I happen to pick up this one when I am in need of a fishing trip. This of course makes my mind go to the river while my eyes move left, right, down, left, right, down. That’s not reading. That’s looking at words on a page. This happened a lot in college, but that was because my mind revolted against the dry material in the $100
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textbooks. Gierach’s words incite mental fishing vacations. So in addition to this book as a winter must-read, here are a few others with an Alaskan flavor.
Eagle Blue Michael D’Orso It’s difficult to get an idea of what it’s like to live somewhere if you’ve only been there a year. It takes repeated cycles to catch on to what’s happening. That said, this book offers a pretty fair idea of what rural basketball in Alaska is all about. It took me back to my own high school trips around Southeast Alaska
– 20-hour boat rides, sleeping on math room floors for days. It will offer others perspective and maybe some talking points during your next trip north when you’re watching the local baller cut your fish on the dock.
Into the Wild Jon Krakauer Whatever you do, don’t stop once this book is finished. The implications Chris McCandless’ story are still felt today. Many Alaskans feel that the underprepared McCandless was irresponsibly lionized by Krakauer. While McCandless’ idealism is appealing it’s not always
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practical and some argue that though McCandless wanted to live away from society, his lifestyle made him ironically more dependent on the goodwill of others - who were members of society. As a result of this book, every summer central Alaska is visited by people who want to “see the bus” and every year someone has to be rescued. If you’ve already read it, Google the rivalry between Krakauer and Anchorage Daily News columnist Craig Medred.
The Final Frontiersman James Campbell Just because you don’t live in Alaska doesn’t mean you can’t write about it. The perspective of someone living in Alaska for the first time is unique and much of the minutiae which might escape a long-time resident is picked up by the wide eyes of a greenhorn. That is, what’s ordinary for an Alaskan is going to be a meaty detail for a newcomer. This book offers a serious look at what it takes to be an actual outdoorsman in Alaska - not someone heavy with hope and insulated with ideology. Along with
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it will be the sad reality that we are not a society strong on these types of skills. It’s nice that life is easier, but it does come at a cost.
The Same River Twice: A Boatman’s Journey Home Michael Burke While fishing and hunting get the most attention when it comes to Alaskan adventure, this memoir is an underrated story of a man attempting to reconnect with his roots. Burke researches his distant relative who was a river boat captain in Alaska and goes to the 49th State to retrace some of the routes. However, Burke isn’t a novice who is in over his head. He has extensive whitewater knowledge and the story of him running the wild rivers of Alaska is a great setting for navigating the transitions in his own life.
The Grizzly Maze Nick Jans Nick Jans didn’t sample Alaska, go back home to someplace warm and start writing about it. He arrived in Alaska
35 years ago and has written with intimate knowledge and insight. So maybe that’s why his reporting of the story of Timothy Treadwell’s troubling obsession with grizzly bears is thorough without being suggestive. He was able to tell the story without being taken by it. While the story of Treadwell’s life with bears (which came to an end when he and his girlfriend were killed and eaten) was praised by animal lovers as heroic, it hasn’t made many want to follow in his footsteps.
Four Against the Wilderness or Almost Too Late Elmo Wortman Both titles are difficult to get ahold of, but the story is incredible. It’s the true story of a father and his three teenage kids who are shipwrecked on a beach and survive. Arm-chair survivalists might critique the decisions and miss the most important attributes these four had – basic outdoor skills and the will to live. If you’re heading to southeast Alaska next summer, have this book read before you arrive. JL
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MEET THE PSEUDO MAMA DOG BY CHRISTINE CUNNINGHAM
N
ormally, the weirdest thing Parker does is lick the walls. She’s an English setter so she’s very sensitive. If you tell her not to lick the walls she goes into a severe depression and doesn’t want to eat anymore. I had gotten used to her eccentric, wall-licking complex. But a dog should only have one behavior that is odd or else the whole animal is odd. Parker crossed over the threshold recently and, since I can’t beat her, I joined her. It started with her pacing the house and panting one night. Veterinary professionals had already determined that she was not pregnant, but she was producing milk and had gained a lot of weight. This might have been my fault because I had thought she was “eating for seven.” It was 2 a.m. and she kept crawling on my bed and sitting on my head. I said, “No sitting on mom’s head,” but she wouldn’t listen. It turns out she was going into fake labor because she was fake pregnant. Maybe we were too cooped up in the house due to weather. Maybe we weren’t getting enough exercise. Maybe we were predicting that a storm was coming. It was too late for me to really try to diagnose her lat136 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL
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est weirdness, let alone my own, so I got online and, after a pot of coffee, became friends with a group of dog breeders who convinced me that not only was my dog faking a pregnancy, but that the best thing I could do was play along. When I went back to bed, Parker was curled up with all of her stuffed toys and trying to nurse them. That’s normal, I thought. My new friends had explained to me that all female dogs that are capable of getting pregnant also are capable of getting fake pregnant. They said this is not rare. I didn’t mention that my dog also licked walls because it was so great to hear that she was close to normal. It turns out that there are biological reasons for fake dog pregnancies going back to the wild dog days, when one dog might have to stand in for another. “Parker is emotionally and hormonally pregnant,” I was told. I restrained myself from commenting that the wall in the hallway might be the father.
Following the advice of my new friends, I picked up one of Parker’s stuffed animals and said, “This is a beautiful puppy, Parker.” She looked like a proud mother. It’s not like we had anything else to do since the weather was bad, so we sat around talking about the futures of her fake offspring. Over the next few days, she became very protective of her stuffed-animal brood. She growled at the other dogs. She moved the entire “litter” with her whenever she had to leave the confines of my bed. She stacked them up next to her food dish, ate, and then packed them all back to bed. The weather improved a bit and I was able to go ice fishing. That was good because I was starting to wonder about my sanity. That morning, Parker ran to the door to meet my partner with three stuffed toys in her mouth. He reached down and pulled one of them away from her and threw it across the room. “Fetch!” he said. Both Parker and I froze in horror. “You just threw one of her puppies,” I said. “What are you talking about?” he said. “Nevermind,” I said. “I need to get out of the house.” Too much time indoors and online isn’t good for a person’s mental health. I put on my coat and picked up the stuffed animal, which was a zebra, and looked for Parker. Surely, she would want to see to the needs of one of her pups. But she was busy licking the wall. ASJ
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DECEMBER 2014
Holiday Gift Guide Alaska Birch Syrup alaskabirchsyrup.com We mix wild cranberries and rosehips in a spicy yet sweet grilling sauce or ketchup, and sweeten it with our own Alaska Birch Syrup. Go wild! The cost is just $15 per 10-ounce jar.
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SunBell Solar Lamp And Phone Charger Eartheasy.com/sunbell-solar-lamp The Norwegian-designed SunBell Solar Lamp and Phone Charger is the Swiss Army knife of solar lighting. Perfect for longer trips, the SunBell can function as a lamp, flashlight, neck light and mobile phone charger. Requiring only three to four hours of sunlight to be fully charged, the SunBell lets you choose between three levels of LED light intensity and operating time. SunBell products are donated to the women without electricity in Zanzibar to provide them the opportunity to study and work safely after the sun has gone down. An off-the-grid solar light and charger, the SunBell can be purchased on Eartheasy.com for $79.95.
Dri-Z-Air Dehumidifiers Drizair.com A Dri-Z-Air dehumidifier system is designed to help prevent condensation, musty odors and mildew in your boat or motorhome’s interior, without any electricity or moving parts. It uses a nontoxic salt (calcium chloride) to reduce cabin moisture quietly and with little monitoring. It’s a simple solution that is ideal for use while your boat or motorhome is in storage. The company recommends using one Dri-Z-Air unit for every 10-foot-by-10-foot space. A 35-foot motorhome will use three or four units during winter lay-up. When used as directed, the units are effective enough to reduce harmful humidity without drying the air to an uncomfortable level. Refill crystals are available in large quantities to get you through the season. Each refill lasts approximately 30 to 60 days, depending upon the amount of moisture in the air. The company recommends monitoring checking each unit every 45 days during storage. The units are made in the United States with recycled plastic and are reusable season after season. Dri-Z-Air has an MSRP of $12.99. They are available at RV and marine supply stores, select hardware stores, and online.
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Photo: Ed Sozinho
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