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CASTING WITH COMRADES Fishing Russia’s Kamchatka

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ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

ALASKA

SPORTING JOURNAL Volume 7 • Issue 11 www.aksportingjournal.com PUBLISHER James R. Baker ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Dick Openshaw GENERAL MANAGER John Rusnak EXECUTIVE EDITOR Andy Walgamott EDITOR Chris Cocoles ASSOCIATE EDITOR Tom Reale WRITERS Dave Atcheson, Paul D. Atkins, Christine Cunningham, Bjorn Dihle, Scott Haugen, Tiffany Haugen, Jeff Lund, Bixler McClure, Krystin McClure, Brian Montalbo, Dennis Musgraves SALES MANAGER Katie Higgins ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Mamie Grifﬁn, Steve Joseph, Garn Kennedy, Mike Smith, Paul Yarnold PRODUCTION MANAGER Sonjia Kells DESIGNERS Ciara Pickering, Sam Rockwell, Liz Weickum WEB DEVELOPMENT/INBOUND MARKETING Jon Hines PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Kelly Baker CIRCULATION MANAGER Heidi Belew DISTRIBUTION Tony Sorrentino, Gary Bickford OFFICE MANAGER/ACCOUNTS Audra Higgins ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT Katie Sauro INFORMATION SERVICES MANAGER Lois Sanborn ADVERTISING INQUIRIES ads@nwsportsmanmag.com

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ON THE COVER In the still freezing waters of the Arctic around Kotzebue Sound, anglers with an auger and some heavy gear can break through the ice and pull in some giant sheeﬁsh, known as the tarpon of the north for their ﬁghting ability. Lew Pagel caught this beauty. (PAUL D. ATKINS) MEDIA INDEX PUBLISHING GROUP WASHINGTON OFFICE 14240 Interurban Ave South • Suite 190 Tukwila, WA 98168 OREGON OFFICE 8116 SW Durham Rd • Tigard, OR 97224 (800) 332-1 736 • Fax (206) 382-9437 media@media-inc.com • www.media-inc.com CORRESPONDENCE Twitter @AKSportJourn Facebook.com/alaskasportingjournal Email ccocoles@media-inc.com

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CONTENTS

VOLUME 7 • ISSUE 11

105

FEATURES 33

THE SHEEFISH SHOW In Arctic Alaska, April isn’t exactly short-sleeve weather. But with sunshine, longer days and the urge to break out the fishing gear calling, our Kotzebue adventure-seeker Paul Atkins cuts through the still-frozen ice to get in on some hard-fighting sheefish action. Grab your niksiks and come along!

HOW TO FIT IN ON ALASKAN WATERS After years of talking a good game to your friends and begging your spouse to let you give up that couples’ trip to Costa Rica, you’re heading for a dream ﬁshing adventure in the Last Frontier. But there’s etiquette involved when coming to Alaska if you want to ﬁt in with the locals. Meet one of those locals, Jeff Lund, who’s nice enough to show you how in this guide.

URBAN PARADISE

121 BEAR BURGERS ON THE GRILL? It started with a text from a Lower 48 friend who planned to visit Bixler and Krystin McClure and requested that some ground bruin meat on a bun be on the menu. So our husband-and-wife team went to the mountains just outside their Seward home for a spring black bear hunt. Would Keith get his burger ﬁx? 129 BROS AND BUCKS The Dihle brothers of Juneau love to hunt together. But with baby bro Reid’s wife, Meghan, nearing her due date, he had to sit out as author Bjorn Dihle and brother Luke trudged on as to nearby Admiralty Island. That landmass is known for its brown bear population but also a lot of Sitka blacktails, which Bjorn and Luke set out to conquer.

ALSO IN THIS ISSUE 51 87 95 149

Finding pike off the Yukon River Fishing Alaska? Be mindful of bears A guide ﬁnds new business on Russia’s Kamchatka Peninsula Creating skull mounts for your harvest

DEPARTMENTS/COLUMNS Even in – on the Alaska scale – a massive metropolis like Anchorage, it doesn’t take much effort (or gas) to get away from the chaos and take advantage of Last Frontier solitude. You can see the bright lights of the big city from Chugach State Park, featuring a half-million acres of land to ﬁsh, hunt, hike, ski and play. Anchorage resident Tom Reale is your tour guide to this getaway spot. (TOM REALE)

13 15

The Editor’s Note: Terror on the Iditarod course Protecting Wild Alaska: Outdoors community ﬁghts Pebble Mine together, calls out POTUS candidates 29 Outdoor calendar 71 From Field to Fire: Memorable coho salmon spots 166 Loose Ends with Christine Cunningham: Passing the time away

Alaska Sporting Journal is published monthly. Call Media Inc. Publishing Group for a current rate card. Discounts for frequency advertising. All submitted materials become the property of Media Inc. Publishing Group and will not be returned. Annual subscriptions are $29.95 (12 issues) or $39.95 (24 issues). Send check or money order to Media Inc. Publishing Group, 14240 Interurban Ave South, Suite 190, Tukwila, WA 98168 or call (206) 382-9220 with VISA or M/C. Back issues may be ordered at Media Inc. Publishing Group, subject to availability, at the cost of $5 plus shipping. Copyright © 2015 Media Inc. Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be copied by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying or recording by any information storage or retrieval system, without the express written permission of the publisher. Printed in U.S.A. 10

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Kodiak Lodge is being sold as a turn-key business with all boats, vehicles, gear, furnishings, valuable client list, and website included. Boats and vehicles included in this sale consist of: 2012 28ft Fish Rite 2008 26ft Hewescraft 2001 23ft Pacific 1999 23ft Pacific (2) 2013 Polaris ATVs 2001 Polaris Ranger 2001 Polaris 6 wheel Sportsman 1989 GMC 12 passenger van 1999 F250 Pickup (2) 2001 Ford pickups Tackle and gear includes downriggers, Daiwa rods and reels, Xtratuff boots, Helly Hansen raingear, Reddington waders and much more.

Visit our website! www.alaskacoastalrealty.com Art Swisher: Owner Broker • Ken Swisher: Associate Broker art@alaskacoastalrealty.com • ken@alaskacoastalrealty.com 12

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EDITOR’S NOTE

’ve attended sporting events all over the country, both as a fan and a member of the working press. Maybe it’s just the cynic in me, or perhaps the whatever-happens-will-happen attitude I’ve had for a long time now, but I’ve never felt safe in a crowded baseball stadium or inside a packed-to-the-rafters basketball or hockey arena. In February, I went with my Even Itidarod mushers and sister and brother-in-law to the their dogs aren’t immune Daytona 500, the Super Bowl of to having their lives put in NASCAR. We shared the grand- peril, as last month’s incidents showed. One dog was killed stand with about 100,000 other and others injured when an race fans with hardly any notice out-of-control snowmachine of trouble. Of course, as we’ve rider plowed into two differdiscovered with the tragedy of ent teams. (SEEING DOUBLE SLED DOG RACING) the Boston Marathon attack, fan brawls both domestically and abroad, and the 1996 Olympic bombing in Atlanta, you just might be in the wrong place at the right time. Let’s face it, in crowds that big, there just might be one or more lunatics capable of something sinister. But what happened to dog mushers Aliy Zirkle and Jeff King was something altogether deplorable. Now, athletes aren’t immune to attacks: tennis player Monica Seles was stabbed during a changeover at a match; Kansas City Royals baseball coach Tom Gamboa was tackled by a father and son in the ﬁrst base coaching box in Chicago; and Israeli Olympic athletes at the 1972 Munich Games were kidnapped and murdered by Palestinian terrorists. But you wouldn’t expect dog sled teams to be vulnerable on the vast emptiness of the Iditarod course during the 2016 running of “The Last Great Race on Earth.” A man named Arnold Demoski was charged with suspicion of assault, among other crimes, after his snowmachine plowed into both Zirkle’s and King’s teams, resulting in the death of one of King’s dogs, 3-year-old Nash, and injuries to two other dogs on both his and Zirkle’s teams. “I just don’t feel well; I’m just not right,” Zirkle told The Alaska Dispatch News while resting at a checkpoint just days after her harrowing encounter. “I think I’m emotional and I’m not normally emotional. I guess that’s what happens when someone tries to (expletive) kill you.” Somehow, Zirkle held it together to ﬁnish third to now four-time champ and March 2015 Alaska Sporting Journal cover subject Dallas Seavey, which is simply remarkable. How could you blame Zirkle for being so upset, and how could you ever expect her or King to ever feel safe, even in the middle of the Alaskan Interior, again? But in her chat with the Dispatch News, Zirkle seemed zeroed in on doing what she loves. “It really brings together Alaskans,” she said, “and it’s where I feel comfortable.” Let’s hope Zirkle nor King never have to endure such trauma again, knowing that another such incident at a sporting event wouldn’t shock anyone. –Chris Cocoles aksportingjournal.com | APRIL 2016

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PROTECTING

WILD ALASKA

MR. OR MS. PRESIDENT, TEAR DOWN THAT MINE AS THE 2016 ELECTION LOOMS, BRISTOL BAY PROTECTERS WANT TO KNOW WHAT THE NEXT POTUS WILL DO ABOUT THE PEBBLE MINE

BY CHRIS COCOLES

f anything else, the subplots, social media buzz and sidebars deﬁning the 2016 race to the White House have been – what’s the right word choice here? – interesting. It’s been an eccentric hodgepodge of drama, and, in some cases, comedy. Hillary

Anglers enjoy the pristine waters of the Iliuk Arm of Naknek Lake, just one of Bristol Bay’s ﬁsheries that Sportsmen For Bristol Bay want the nation’s next president to protect as the Pebble Mine project stalemate rages on. (BECCA ELLINGSWORTH) aksportingjournal.com | APRIL 2016

ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

PROTECTING

WILD ALASKA Clinton and her email scandal and Chris Christie’s rise to GOP frontrunner and fall to disappointing ﬂameout. Bernie Sanders’ cult status as Saturday Night Live’s lovable punchline with his kindred spirit/funny man Larry David making “Bern Your Enthusiasm” a pop culture thing. You have Marco Rubio pissing off Donald Trump, Fox News talking head Megyn Kelly pissing off Donald Trump and Trump pissing off everyone who doesn’t support his unlikely surge. Meanwhile, America is making fun of Ted Cruz every chance it gets, though at press time he was the only remaining viable challenger in The Donald’s path to securing the GOP nomination at the convention in July. And there you have the major players to succeed Barack Obama. Super Tuesday 2 stamped Clinton and Trump as the runaway leaders and put them on a November collision course, but we digress. Whoever becomes POTUS No.

45, Alaskans would like to know what he or she thinks of the proposed Pebble Mine and the impact it may have on Bristol Bay’s wildlife and the region’s salmon, including the world’s largest run of sockeye. Obama’s historic trip to Alaska last summer included a quick cameo appearance in Bristol Bay, where a spawning salmon left the president’s shoe with a rather messy souvenir. While the nut of his visit to the Last Frontier was to focus on climate change, Obama acknowledged the need to preserve the ﬁshing industry there. But it’s his successor who should have a much bigger impact on the region with regards to the Pebble Mine project. So a conglomerate of conservation groups, ﬁshing lodge owners and guides and other companies – referring to itself as Sportsmen For Bristol Bay – sent a letter to all the major 2016 candidates, including Trump and Clinton (see sidebar on p. 48). In part, the letter read, “We write to ask you simply: Where do you stand

on the proposed Pebble Mine in Bristol Bay, Alaska?” It seems like an easy question to answer, but given that the Pebble Mine and those concerned about the potential for a spill and the effect on Bristol Bay’s ﬁsh and wildlife have clashed for more than a decade now, the response is far more complex. “Whether you’re a Democrat or Republican, it doesn’t matter. Protecting Bristol Bay has a bipartisan support,” Ben Bulis, president and CEO of the American Fly Fishing Trade Association, said during a conference call last month. “We’re demanding that those running for president of the United States take a stand on the Pebble Mine.”

BRIAN KRAFT’S OFFICE where he spends every summer is far prettier than your average cubicle or work bench. Kraft and his wife, Serena, operate three Bristol Bay-area fishing lodges, Alaska Sportsman’s Lodge, Alaska Sportsman’s Bear Trail Lodge and Bristol Bay Lodge (888-826-7376; fishasl.com). Kraft, who joined Bulis and Dallas Sa-

Alaska Sportsman’s Lodge’s location on the Kvichak River, near Lake Iliamna, could look a lot different if the proposed Pebble Mine suffers an accident similar to the one at the Mount Polley Mine in British Columbia, Canada, in 2014. (ALASKA SPORTSMAN’S LODGE) 16

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Serena and Brian Kraft own three Alaska Sportsman’s Lodge properties in the heart of the world’s most proliﬁc sockeye spawning waters, which sustain Natives and the local economy. The rivers and lakes are also home to big rainbows, like this one. “All of that would be wiped away if we had a Pebble Mine,” Kraft said. (ALASKA SPORTSMAN’S LODGE)

fari Club executive director Ben Carter on the teleconference as the main speakers, has everything at stake if Canadian-based Northern Dynasty Minerals Ltd. does get the chance to mine Bristol’s rich copper, gold and silver deposits. Kraft said he first heard the words Pebble Mine in summer 2004, when he was first “thrust into battle on Pebble.” “I noticed a bunch of helicopters ﬂying throughout the area, and one of the locals who lived in a small village asked what was going on. We started asking some questions and discovered that there was a substantial mine (project) going in. I had no idea what mining was or what impact it would be on ﬁsheries. And quite frankly, nobody in Bristol Bay did either.” They know a lot more now, and a big assist for that should go to Kraft. After that initial understanding of what might be happening, Kraft created the Bristol Bay Alliance – “an educational effort to learn about mining – what it does and what its impacts are,” he said – and he’s been locked in ever since to 18

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help the lead way in the ﬁght against Pebble Mine. “What the people have discovered is that a mine of this nature cannot coexist with the fragile habitat that sustains the world’s largest wild salmon runs,” Kraft said. “All the things that my friends have talked about have another enormous impact on Alaska, and that’s tourism and the jobs that support the local economy. Twenty-nine thousand ﬁshing trips each year and the wildlife attract (people) from around the world mean jobs in my lodges, jobs for Alaskans, jobs that are here year in and year out. All of that would be wiped away if we had a Pebble Mine.” His lodges attract thrill-seeking outdoorsmen and –women from all over the Lower 48 and beyond, so he interacts with diverse groups with whom he can share his crusade to block mining from the lakes and rivers that are teeming with wild salmon. Of course, there are those dissenters who simply love the outdoors and can’t imagine such a place threatened by mining. But there are other doubters

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PROTECTING

WILD ALASKA from less likely sectors. “I have mining engineers who are customers, so there are ironically people from the mining industry that come up,” Kraft said. “And I had a mining engineer who told me, ‘Take me up there; let me see what this Pebble thing’s all about.’ I ﬂew him up there and asked him for his insights and education on it. He got on the ground and kept shaking his head the whole time and just kept saying, ‘Too much water, too much water. It’s going to be a disaster.’” Kraft reminded about what happened at the Mount Polley Mine in British Columbia, where in August 2014 millions of gallons of waste seeped into a salmon-rich watershed after a dam collapsed. Earlier that summer, after the Environmental Protection Agency released a report that all but predicted catastrophe for Bristol Bay if the ecosystem is mined,

ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

Skylar, who is Brian Kraft’s stepdaughter, is turning 17 “and loves to ﬂy ﬁsh,” said Brian, who hopes Skylar’s generation can continue to enjoy the pristine Bristol Bay ecosystem for years to come. (ALASKA SPORTSMAN’S LODGE)

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PROTECTING

WILD ALASKA

healthy ﬁsh and wildlife populations.” But the Mount Polley accident less than a month later raised even more red ﬂags from Dillingham to King Salmon to Iliamna. “And it can happen here. But it

doesn’t have to if we act now,” Kraft said. “That’s why we are making this demand of all the candidates. The EPA now has acknowledged that this critical issue will be inherited by the next administration. So we want to know where the next

LETTER TO PRESIDENTIAL CANDIDATES

fishing for or making their livelihood off of wild salmon. Our voices have been and will continue to be heard on this. Over 1,150 sport fishing and hunting groups and businesses have asked for Bristol Bay to be protected. Hunters and anglers were strongly represented in the over 1.5 million public comments supporting protection for Bristol Bay from the Pebble Mine. Bristol Bay supports one of the planet’s best remaining salmon fisheries, which at an average run of 37.5 million fish, produces 46 percent of the world’s sockeye salmon. On top of the incredible number of sockeye salmon, the watershed supports Chinook salmon, coho

Northern Dynasty replied, “We continue to believe the project must be developed in a way that protects clean water,

Sportsmen For Bristol Bay, which includes several ﬁshing and hunting organizations, conservation groups and outdoor-related companies, penned this open letter on Feb. 25 to all the major 2016 presidential candidates, regardless of political party: Dear Ben Carson, Hillary Clinton, Ted Cruz, John Kasich, Marco Rubio, Bernie Sanders and Donald Trump, As organizations and companies that represent millions of sportsmen and -women and outdoor enthusiasts across all 50 states we write to ask you simply: Where do you stand on the proposed Pebble Mine in Bristol Bay, Alaska?

ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

For most of us, for most of the last 10 years it has been one of our organization’s and its membership or customer’s top-tier causes: stopping the Pebble Mine. The late Sen. Ted Stevens called this project “the wrong mine in the wrong place.” For the last 10 years an unprecedented coalition of native tribes, commercial ﬁshermen, anglers and hunters, conservationists, religious groups, restaurateurs and outdoor enthusiasts have been ﬁghting this foreign-owned mine proposal trying to gain protections for the Bristol Bay region and millions of Americans who cherish eating,

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ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

PROTECTING

WILD ALASKA salmon, rainbow trout, grayling, and char, all of which are prized sportfish that result in more than 29,000 fishing trips per year. In addition to world-class fisheries, the area is also home to high densities of brown bear, moose, caribou, waterfowl, and ptarmigan that attract hunters from around the world. president stands before they put their right hand on the Bible and take the oath of the office as the 45th president.”

SO WHAT’S NEXT for this issue? How fast will the next man or woman who Obama will pass the baton to act on deciding if mining Bristol Bay will be blocked or Northern Dynasty’s plan will proceed? Sportsmen For Bristol Bay is adamant that it’s just a nonpartisan and nonproﬁt group that wasn’t formed to inﬂuence the results of what happens on Nov. 8. But as the letter states, it

GUN CARE ALL IN ONE STEP

From an economic perspective, sportfishing, hunting, and eco-tourism alone generate more than $160 million in local economic activity, creating nearly 2,500 local, sustainable jobs. The proposed Pebble Mine would create only about 1,000 temporary mining jobs while threatening 14,000 commercial and recreational fishery jobs in a $1.5-billion annual salmon fishery that can last indefinitely.

Pebble Mine will wipe this all away. Simply put, places like Bristol Bay are extremely rare and extremely valuable. Millions of our members and customers across this country are asking you to stand with us in stopping this mine in this place. Where do you stand?

demands that the next POTUS take a stand one way or the other. The growing group includes both hunters and anglers, commercial ﬁshermen and people like Kraft who share the bounty of his backyard salmon and trout bounty, plus the ubiquitous wildlife there. “Southwest Alaska has been recognized as the top combination area for brown bear, moose and caribou for decades. It’s one of the last places on the face of the Earth with this kind of remote wilderness hunting, and allowing mining on this scale would end that

experience forever,” Carter said. “For a diverse community, we agree on some issues and disagree on some. But one thing that absolutely unites and galvanizes hunters and anglers is opposition to the Pebble Mine.” Most of the presidential candidates had yet to publicly comment about the mine, but The Alaska Dispatch News reached out to each of the candidates and got a reply from Clinton’s campaign. “Like President Obama, who protected Bristol Bay itself from consideration for oil and gas drilling, Hillary Clin-

Sincerely, Sportsmen for Bristol Bay

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ton recognizes the incredible economic, cultural, and environmental value that Bristol Bay’s fishery and watershed provide to Alaska and the nation,” a Clinton spokesperson told the website. “And she agrees with the need to protect both the fishery and watershed from harmful mining activity.” But for politicians, particularly in a typically contentious election year, talk is cheap. Northern Dynasty, despite some tumultuous turnover over the last few years, is digging in for a long standoff. Kraft, Bulis, Carter and those they speak for aren’t budging either. Whether Hillary Clinton, Donald Trump or whoever’s left among the now longshot opposition can figure out a solution to this fight remains to be seen. “This is not just an issue about the presidential election,” Bulis said. “Bristol Bay supports the planet’s best remaining wild salmon fishery, producing 46 percent of the world’s sockeye salmon. So this isn’t just about the United States; this is a global issue.” Kraft, who has so much on the line if Pebble Mine becomes a reality and a Mount Polley-like disaster threatens what he has fought to preserve, and his colleagues have taken a positive approach to winning this stalemate. It comforts Kraft to host guests at his lodges who can’t believe the state of Alaska and federal government would permit mining in such a place (the letter references the late Alaska Sen. Ted Stevens’ comment about the idea of Pebble being “the wrong mine in the wrong place”). “It reassures us that we are doing the right thing,” Kraft said. “It has been a long battle. We’ve been at this since 2004 and there have been many times when we’ve been down in Juneau and were in disbelief of some of the positions of our state politicians on this issue. But the (Native) people who live there, the people who have had thousands of years of heritage, understand better than anybody how dependent everything is on an intact ecosystem. They went to the federal government and said, ‘You’ve got to help us.’ Since that day happened, I’ve been on the side of, we are going to prevail.” ASJ 26

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OUTDOOR CALENDAR April 1

Brown bear season opens in GMU 6D (Montague Island) and GMU 8 (Kodiak-Shelikof) April 1-3 Great Alaska Sportsman Show, Sullivan and Ben Boeke Arenas, Anchorage; greatalaskasportsmanshow.com April 22-24 Fairbanks Outdoor Show, Carlson Center, Fairbanks; carlson-center.com/outdoorTravelShow April 30 End of wolf season in GMU 4 (Admiralty/Baranof/Chicagof Islands) May 10 Start of spring brown bear season in GMU 9 (Alaska Peninsula) May 15-Sept. 5 Homer Halibut Jackpot Derby; homeralaska.org/visit-homerevents-homer/homer-jackpothalibut-derby May 21-Sept. 4 Valdez Halibut Derby valdezďŹ shderbies.com May 28-30 First weekend of Ketchikan CHARR King Salmon Derby; ketchikankingsalmonderby.com May 31 End of brown bear season in Wolf season in Game Management Unit 4 (Admiralty, Baranof and Chicamultiple GMUs gof Islands) continues through April 30. (NATIONAL PARK SERVICE)

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GRAB YOUR NIKSIK, IT’S INCONNU TIME!

APRIL’S ARRIVAL IN THE ARCTIC MEANS LONGER DAYS, WARMER WEATHER AND LOTS OF BIG SHEEFISH UNDER THE ICE BY PAUL D. ATKINS

fter pulling on my bunny boots I stepped through the kanisak, or entryway, and stood on the deck overlooking Kotzebue Sound and stared at the frozen ice that led out into the Chukchi Sea. The sun had already made its appearance, and the cool April air combined with patches of fog as it bounced across the horizon. It provided that old familiar “wet” smell that’s common to the Arctic this time of year. It was going to be a glo-

Even in April, you’ll need plenty of auger to drill through the still-frozen waters of the Arctic around Kotzebue Sound to access plentiful and tasty sheeﬁsh. (PAUL ATKINS) aksportingjournal.com | APRIL 2016

ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

In the Arctic, the traditional fishing stick is called a niksik and is made of either strong willow, antler or just plain old wood. These niksiks are rigged with spoons, and while sheefish will bite other offerings, they love the big lures, especially those that mimic herring and smelt. Their extended lower jaw gives them the ability to swallow baitfish whole. (PAUL ATKINS)

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a glorious day, especially for ice fishing! Per standard operating procedure, I had fueled and oiled my snowmachine the night before, giving it the once over and making sure everything was ready to go. An old wooden sled – passed down to me by a local artist – was loaded with gear and hitched to the Skidoo’s J-hook. It looked more like a five-day hunting trip than a simple day of fishing. Either way, all I had to do was pull the cover and start the engine. The blue plastic tub that was Loop-Roped to the sled was packed with all the necessities an adventure such as this would require. Niksiks,

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Inuit for fishing sticks made of willow branches or caribou antler, were placed carefully inside, plus rods, reels, tip-ups, extra line, lures, pliers, extra gloves, fillet knife, a thermos full of coffee and enough Pop-Tarts to feed an army were all assembled for the short ride across the ice. Buried underneath it all was the most important piece of the ice fishing puzzle: the auger. Wrapped in a blanket to provide a little cushion was the new Jiffy Pro 4 propane ice drill. Its big 10-inch blade and 49-cc motor would not only make drilling holes easy and fast, but also a fun experience. I was eager to use it! Rods and reels made by Cabela’s and combined with braided line will go a long ways towards reeling in that giant sheefish. (PAUL ATKINS)

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Lew Pagel, my good friend and fellow fisherman, finally arrived and we were ready for business. After a long winter of looking for muskox in subzero conditions, the idea of something a little less strenuous and with zero chance of getting frostbite was just what the doctor ordered. I grabbed my “tonk,” or icebreaker, and a dipper that also doubles as a spaghetti strainer and we headed down to Front Street. The snow shimmered along the well-beaten trail as we made our way across the sound towards the mouth of the river. The Baird Mountains, beautiful as they are, were visible in the distance and served as a signpost while anticipation of what lurked under the pack ice built inside us. It was going to be a great day, especially for catching some monster sheefish!

THE TARPON OF THE NORTH. That’s what sheeﬁsh or inconnu, a French word for unknown, are sometimes called. They can be found only in the Arctic

and sub-Arctic areas of Alaska. They are beautiful fish, silver in color with a dark bluish sheen along the top of their back. They remind me of the big stripers I used to catch as a kid back in Oklahoma and Arkansas during the summer. Sheefish are big fighters that like to thrash and crash once the hook is set, plus they tend to be similar in size and weight. Here in the northwest Arctic they are most commonly found in the Selawik and Kobuk River drainages of Kotzebue Sound. These fish can get big, weighing up to 60 pounds and commonly found in the deep cold water where the current is the swiftest. Their tremendous size and meat quality makes them one of the most unique fish species in North America. It’s a pretty simple process when it comes to ice fishing for these monsters. You first must find where the current is leaving one of the river channels and cut your holes. Unless you are lucky enough to find a hole that has already been cut/fished,

this will be toughest part. The ice gets pretty thick during the winter months in and around the Kotzebue Sound. For me personally, the gas-powered ice auger is one of the greatest inventions since the toaster. For many years I used a handheld auger, and if it wasn’t for the promise of catching a big fish that would provide a great meal, I would have chosen to do something else with my time. Getting through 5 to 6 feet of ice was a back-breaking affair. These days, gas-operated augers, such as those made by Jiffy and the Eskimo brand, make drilling through ice a piece of cake and I can be fishing in a matter of minutes. Most augers come with extensions for the really thick stuff and can cut either an 8- or 10-inch-diameter hole. As I said above, I prefer the 10-inch model, which wprovides a little more room for hauling in the big boys that don’t count calories or care about their waistlines. I’ve actually hooked fish that wouldn’t fit through an 8-inch hole, resulting in

Phil Wildman

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the “wait, let them breathe and then pull method.” Eventually, though not always, they did pull through, but a bigger hole for bigger fish seems to be the best practice. During the coldest years the ice can be as much as 8 feet thick in some places, but usually it’s between 5 and 7. Most people who venture onto the ice will usually start in one place, cut a few holes, fish them and then move to another area if the first one isn’t producing. It has been my experience that sheefish will move after a few days and it is usually closer to town.

Sheefish like to thrash, so when you’re unhooking a big one that’s bit a lure outfitted with a treble, be careful and watch that you don’t stick a hook through your finger. (PAUL ATKINS)

NIKSIKS ARE SIMPLE and most commonly made out of a willow branch or pieces of wood screwed together in the shape of a semicircle. The curve of a caribou antler works well too, and so does a caribou rib. I’ve even seen moose jaws made to “hook” ﬁsh. Each niksik is unique to the person using it. Some of these jigs are as simple as a stick with a hole drilled through the end of it and a

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line attached. The line is usually Dacron, which is meant more for trolling or, more commonly, a trotline. I use the 50-pound test, but have seen up to 80-pound test used. Dacron is tough, durable and easy to maneuver in the icy water. Simple filament fishing line can be used on your niksik, but I don’t recommend it. Is there anything worse than getting a big boy to the top of the hole only to have him break the line and slide away? The amount of line needed depends on the depth you will be fishing. I usually attach 20 to 22 feet but don’t fish more than 15 feet, depending on water depth.

Rods and reels are very common when it comes to ice fishing, but seldom seen in the Arctic. It wasn’t until recently that I was introduced to this technique while pursuing sheefish. We used Verano reels made by Cabela’s and spooled with 40-pound Power Pro braided green line. For me, the combo provided a more traditional feel that gave the experience of the fish biting and the sight of a bent rod tip instead of the quick jerk you get using the traditional method. It’s a pretty incredible experience feeling a 50- to 60-pound fish hit such light line and tug on the end of the rod. No matter what equipment you decide to use, the area in and around Kot-

Ice ﬁshing is best with family and friends, especially here in the Arctic. Load up several snowmachines and sleds and head out onto the ice for a day of great fun. (PAUL ATKINS) 42

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zebue Sound is quite shallow in places and the amount of line you use will vary. My technique is to let the line out until it hits the ocean floor and then come up 3 to 4 feet from the bottom. Sheefish like to stay deeper in the water column, where the current will carry your lure. Speaking of lures, there are many that can be used to catch these “whitefish,” as they are sometimes called, but the more popular ones are those made by companies such as Doctor Spoon and American Eagle. Spoons come in various sizes, but the 4- and 5-inch models are the most popular and usually end up catching more fish. Color also has an effect on a sheefish; depending on whether you’re superstitious or not,

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a solid gold or solid silver spoon seems to catch more for some reason! In addition to this presentation, some people use fish-imitating lures that they dip in their favorite sauce, while others use dead baitfish such as herring or smelt attached to a treble hook. Unlike pike, which love dead bait, sheeﬁsh will hit the herring on occasion when nothing else seems to be getting their attention. Simply attach a small piece to your spoon and drop it down and hope for a quick hit. Like most ice ﬁshing, angling for these beasts is pretty simple. Use your auger to drill down until you hit water and clean your hole out by dipping out the excess ice, then drop your lure in. A simple jig or jerk that creates an up-

Even with all the hunting Paul Atkins (right, with his wife, Susie and son, Eli) does, April ice ﬁshing for sheeﬁsh is one of his favorite pastimes in the Last Frontier. (PAUL ATKINS)

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and-down motion allows you to ﬁsh like a professional. If they’re really biting – and there will be times when they are – the action will be endless. These huge ﬁsh will hit instantly, which creates an intense feeling as they pull underneath you. Before you know it you’ll have a sled full. When you do hook a fish the chore of getting it up through the hole becomes your main concern. If you’re a first-timer, eagerness and excitement will set in and you’ll try to get the fish up as fast as possible, usually resulting in a slipped hook and/or a lost fish. Preach patience, and combined with a little muscle and finesse, they’ll come up and out of the salty slush with ease. Believe me, the first time you pull a 40-inch fish out of the ice is an amazing experience!

LEW AND I MADE our way to mouth of the frozen river, and with a little effort and the help of a GPS we located our secret spot. We’ve been coming to this same

ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

area for years as it has been fruitful over and over, providing us with hours of entertainment and fishing excitement. We used our snowmachines as benches and sat next to our freshly drilled holes, both of us soaked with anticipation of what might be. You can quickly tell whether it will be a day of just working your arm muscles or one spent harvesting what nature has provided below. Luckily, this day was the latter and we had fish on in seconds, creating excitement up and down the trail. Other fishermen had joined us and were within close distance of us. As the sun started to make its way south and our sled was loaded, it was time to head home to clean, bag and store our catch, plus cook up a few of the excellent filets we had pulled from the sound. Here in the Arctic, April and May are special months. Daylight is plentiful and the cold darkness of January and February has become a distant memory.

APRIL 2016 | aksportingjournal.com

Spring bear hunting has begun, plus snowshoe hare and ptarmigan are still available to those who want to wade the willows or wander along one of the many creeks in the area. However, if you want to try something unique and totally different – where Arctic adventure and big fish come together – then grab your niksik, spoons and Pop-Tarts and head north to the pack ice in search of sheefish. It will be one of the grandest times you will ever experience! ASJ Editor’s note: If you’re interested in booking your own Arctic fishing adventure, contact Paul Atkins or Lew Pagel of Arctic Fishing Adventures at FishtheArctic@gmail .com. They’ll get you set up and provide all the information to make your ice fishing trip a reality. They’re booking for spring 2017. Atkins is an outdoor writer and author from Kotzebue, Alaska. He’s written hundreds of articles on big game hunting and fishing throughout North America and Africa. Paul is a monthly contributor to Alaska Sporting Journal.

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FALL FOR THE DALL

ALASKA’S INTERIOR IS FAR FROM PREMIERE SALMON RIVERS AND SALTWATER FISHING, BUT YUKON TRIBS LIKE THE DALL MAKE UP FOR IT WITH HUNGRY PIKE

BY DENNIS MUSGRAVES

S The silty waters of the mighty Yukon River (inset) contrast with the clear blue of the Dall, a tributary that provides some fantastic northern pike ﬁshing in the Alaskan Interior. (DENNIS MUSGRAVES)

portﬁshing road trips in Alaska are a must for most residents. My home in the Fairbanks North Star Borough sits hundreds of miles away from the fabulous freshwater salmon and trout streams of the Southcentral region, and is even further away from saltwater destinations. Although the majority of my angling adventures unfold many mile markers

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Skirted spinnerbaits in bright colors are sure to catch the eye of pike gathered at the conďŹ&#x201A;uence of the Dall and Yukon Rivers. (DENNIS MUSGRAVES)

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south from where I live, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m not ready to permanently pack up and migrate from the Interior just yet. I hold an enduring appreciation for the fantastic sport fishing found only in the northern reaches of the 49th state. Living north of the Alaska Range provides opportunity for some very unique fishing escapades, and most fishing trips can be made in a single day. The far north regions host a variety of sportfish species, both stocked and wild, and there are plenty of lakes and river systems I have not conquered. One very special location which should be considered by highway anglers departing from the Fairbanks area is the Yukon River system. Fishermen eager to target

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northern pike won’t be disappointed. Accessing the famed river can be done be taking the James W. Dalton Highway to the only bridge spanning the waterway and dropping a boat in at the nearby launch. Numerous clearwater tributaries that feed the muddy giant can be found both upstream and downstream, and typically they hold good populations of pike. What’s even better is the relative close proximity of the bridge crossing to Fairbanks, so a successful outing can be accomplished in just a single day. That’s exactly how I made the trip with fellow ﬁshing buff JR Merritt and his uncle, Joe Michalsky. Our plan was hatched after several visits to JR’s work – Big Ray’s Fly Shop (bigrays.com) in downtown Fairbanks. Northern pike ﬁshing always seems to be the topic of discussion when I stop by the local JR Merritt and Joe Michalsky prep the boat before launching on the Yukon. Safety is critical when running a 16-footer on a large, fast-moving river like the Yukon. (DENNIS MUSGRAVES)

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IF YOU GO The Yukon River is one of North America’s major watercourses and is the tenth longest river in the world. Originating in British Columbia, the mighty waterway flows over 700 miles through Canada before reaching Alaska’s eastern Interior border. From there it moves westward, spanning 1,400 miles and cutting across the entire width of the 49th state before dumping into the Bering Sea. It is the longest river in Alaska. Many different tributaries feed the Yukon along its winding route through Alaska’s wilderness, including the Dall River. As with most of the watersheds that drain into the Yukon, the Dall has a healthy population of northern pike available for sportfishing. Navigating a boat in the turbulent Yukon can be challenging, but certainly is necessary in order to reach a prolific pike fishery such as the Dall.

ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

Although road access in Alaska for reaching the Yukon’s banks and dropping a boat into the river is very limited, boaters can always take the corridor north via the Dalton Highway and use the shore launch adjacent to the only bridge in the state that spans the silt-laden current. The Yukon River Bridge (officially named the E.L. Patton Bridge) was constructed in order to facilitate crossing of the Trans-Alaskan oil pipeline, and connect the Dalton Highway to the North Slope. The area near the bridge has been improved since its original completion in 1975 and includes a Bureau of Land Management information and visitor center, a privately owned business offering overnight lodging, food service, a fuel station and, thankfully, good access for launching a boat. Traveling the Dalton Highway (often called the Haul Road) to the Yu-

APRIL 2016 | aksportingjournal.com

kon River Bridge and further north can be an adventure in itself. Scenic landscape, wildlife viewing and opportunities for sportfishing at several different creeks that cross under the roadway can realistically be achieved in a daylong outing from the Fairbanks area.

TACKLE BOX Since I was fishing from a boat during my trip to the Dall, I only used conventional fishing methods and decided to cast hardware. Longer fishing rods allow for better casting distance and necessary leverage for larger fish like northern pike. I recommend a rod length of 8 feet or greater, and in medium-heavy action. Fishing reel considerations should take into account the need for larger line capacity and proper gearing ratio for an effective retrieve. I prefer to use an ABU Garcia

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store. One location I had never been to but that JR said has been very productive for him is the Dall River. It took little convincing when JR ﬁnally extended an invite to join he and Joe for a day trip to the Dall in their boat.

OUR EARLY-MORNING RENDEZVOUS at JR’s house to hitch up the boat trailer and load up gear went off without issue. All of us were excited about the prospects of catching a big pike. Leaving before 6 a.m. gave us plenty of time to safely make the trek to the Yukon River and still have a full day of ﬁshing before making the return trip home. After a ﬁnal load check the three of us buckled our seat belts and hit the road. Out of Fairbanks, we headed north via the Elliot Highway for about 80 miles to an intersection where the Dalton Highway officially begins. From the start of the Haul Road it was an additional 55 miles to the Yukon River Bridge. We arrived at river’s edge and it took little time to launch the boat and

begin zooming up the river. I felt tiny sitting in the 16-foot-long aluminum boat as it cut a wake against the quick-flowing, monstrous river. Joe wisely kept us on a course nearly centered in the half-mile width of the roaring chocolate-colored water. Keeping the boat in the deepest part of the main channel helped to avoid submerged timber and prevented running aground inadvertently on any of the numerous shallow sandbars hidden below the surface. Joe’s focus remained sharp on the tiller throughout our journey as the 90hp outboard powered us effortlessly upstream. Our route was short, covering only 15 river miles of the Yukon. I sat near the bow, giving me an unobstructed panoramic view of the historic waterway and scenic surroundings. I was enthralled by the seemingly endless wilderness along the riverbanks as we traveled towards our final destination, the Dall River. The Dall flows into the Yukon from

6500 series casting model. Large spinnerbaits were my preferred choice of lure. Bright colors in size 5 and 6 worked great on a 6-inchlong wire leader. The metal leader prevented the toothy pike from incidentally cutting the mono-based fishing line I used on my reel. The spinnerbaits allowed me to cover and work larger water sections horizontally, which increased the odds of passing my offering near a hungry pike. Below is a short list of proven, trusted favorites I personally use and fully recommend: Temple Fork Outfitters Signature Series two-piece MH Casting Rod (tforods.com); P-Line CXX Xtra tough 20-poundtest fishing line (p-line.com); Kodiak Custom Fishing Tackle GI Skirted Spinners in assorted sizes and colors (kodiakcustom.com). –DM

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the north a few miles downstream of the small community of Stevens Village. As with many other tributaries of the Yukon, an abundant number of pike are present near the conﬂuence and further up the narrow, clear-running

Dall since it provides ideal habitat for the ﬁsh to thrive.

JR ENTHUSIASTICALLY POINTED OUT the Dall. “There’s the river!” he shouted over the noise of the outboard. He

With Joe Michalsky at the tiller of the 90hp outboard, JR Merritt enjoys the ride on the massive Yukon en route to its conﬂuence with the Dall. (DENNIS MUSGRAVES)

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Fishing these waters means you might stumble onto another species like this Dennis Musgraves-caught sheeďŹ sh. (DENNIS MUSGRAVES)

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eased up on the throttle, turning us from the stained Yukon towards the mouth of the Dall. As the boat glided through the conďŹ&#x201A;uence, we passed over a distinct silt line, which marked and created a separation of the two bodies of water. The clear water of the Dall mixed with the dirty and turbulent Yukon not only provides a natural boundary; it is also a great location to catch ďŹ sh because pike suspend near the silt line waiting for easy meals exiting the murky Yukon. We anchored the boat near the conďŹ&#x201A;uence, perfect for casting past the silt line and swimming lures back into the clear tributary to imitate prey ďŹ sh. With the vessel secured, all of us could safely stand and cast our lines from the platform the boat provided. Fishing at the river mouth was almost automatic; just about everything we threw in the direction of the silt line produced a catch. My ďŹ rst cast enticed an aggressive northern that went just over 2 feet in length. JR and Joe managed to hook up immediately also, each catching some very respectable ďŹ sh. JR harnessed a very nice pike that pushed close to 3 feet long and weighed well over 10 pounds. Action eventually slowed down and we repositioned the

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ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

boat to locate fresh takers. The process of maneuvering the boat to locate a fresh bite was simply repeated as the catching dictated. My fishing highlight on the trip was a sheefish, a rare catch. A member of the whitefish family, the meat is similar to the flavor of Pacific halibut – I was quick to dispatch the tasty fish for harvest.

FISHING AT THE DALL River was rewardingly fun, living up to all the hype. We were fortunate to have great weather and catch many northern pike on the short oneday adventure. As we pulled anchor to head back to the bridge, I appreciated the moment and thought about how these good times solidify my decision to remain rooted in the Interior. JR Merritt with a typical northern from the Dall River conﬂuence. (DENNIS MUSGRAVES)

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Charter Spotlight

Yes, the turn-and-burn fishing excursion from Fairbanks to the Yukon River had depleted my energy level by the time we returned to the Golden Heart City. But being exhausted was only a temporary condition; memories of the unique outing would definitely outlast the fatigue. Taking a scenic road trip 150 miles north along the famous Haul Road and navigating Alaska’s iconic Yukon River for sport fishing in a single day reminds me of how lucky I am to live smack in the middle of the Great Land. Freshly cooked sheefish has a particular way of recharging one’s battery rather quickly too! ASJ Editor’s note: For more on Dennis Musgraves’ adventures fishing the Last Frontier, check out alaskansalmonslayers.com. Author Dennis Musgraves doesn’t regret living in the Alaskan Interior, far away from saltwater and salmon opportunities, when he can travel a short distance to the Yukon-Dall River confluence and catch nice pike with his buddies. (DENNIS MUSGRAVES)

HOOKY CHARTERS Hooky Charters specializes in guided world-class king salmon, silver salmon, halibut and rainbow trout fishing trips in Kenai, Alaska! We have 38 years of experience fishing here on the “world famous” Kenai River and Cook Inlet. We work hard to turn your Alaskan guided fishing trip into not only a catching trip, but an enjoyable and exciting experience that will provide a lifetime of memories. Want to experience more of Alaska? Besides our fishing charters, we offer several other activities to keep you busy during your stay in Alaska, including scenic fly out fishing/bear viewing trips, rafting trips, hiking and clam digging. We want to make your Alaskan fishing trip as enjoyable as possible. Therefore, we want to help you with any other ideas for activities and reservations. Hooky Charters also offers lodging. Contact us today! We will customize the ultimate Alaskan trip for you! 907-283-9026 • www.hookycharters.com

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Charter Spotlight

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SILVERS ON THE MEDAL STAND

FIELD

RANKING A LIFETIME OF ALASKAN COHO SALMON FISHING ADVENTURES

Fishing amongst brown bears is one of Scott Haugen’s greatest thrills, and this ﬂy-out trip to Big River Lake offers quick, easy access that can be done in a single day. (SCOTT HAUGEN)

BY SCOTT HAUGEN

aving lived a subsistence lifestyle in Alaska and traveled throughout much of the state, it’s not easy picking my top silver salmon ﬁshing adventures, as there have been many. But after much thought, here’s a countdown of my three favorite trips over the past 25 years, some of which you might want to consider as you plan your next trip north.

BIG RIVER LAKE

One of my top silver salmon fishing experiences came with friend and noted guide Greg Brush, who owns EZ Limit Guide Service (ezlimit.com). It’s one of the shortest, most cost-effective fly-out trips in Alaska. After our floatplane flew out of the town of Kenai, we had barely crossed Cook Inlet before we were descending into Big River Lake. Soon, schools of silvers could be seen cruising the shoreline, with hundreds of fish congregating at creek mouths. My first cast with a Kodiak Custom Lure was attacked, and just like that a plump coho was in the box. Since I didn’t want to tag out too quickly, I went to catch-and-release for a while. Though the fishing was great, it was the ambience of the morning that hit so close to my heart. With the boat tucked tight to the lush, towering cliffs, at times I felt like I was back

Haugen has ﬁshed many remote waters throughout Alaska over the past 25 years and ranks this journey, near Stony River, among the best of the best. (SCOTT HAUGEN)

in the Amazon, casting amid mangroves for peacock bass. Looking higher into the cliffs, the dense foliage reminded me of living in the rainforest of Sumatra. But the higher I looked, the granite peaks loomed as vivid reminders that I was in the Last Frontier. aksportingjournal.com | APRIL 2016

ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

FIELD

ADD A HAWAIIAN PUNCH TO COHO

BY TIFFANY HAUGEN

n the middle of winter, as daylight hours continue to slowly lengthen throughout Alaska, there’s nothing quite like seeing the return of the sun. Sunshine makes us yearn for heat, which takes our minds to places like Hawaii. If you can’t go to Hawaii, however, do the next best thing and bring a taste of the islands to you. One of my family’s favorite Hawaiian dishes is lomi lomi salmon. Just when I thought I’d prepared salmon and steelhead about every way possible, this incredibly simple dish landed in front of me. This recipe works well with all salmon species. If looking to bring some island flavors to the table, get your fingers ready to massage (lomi lomi in Hawaiian) your way to a delicious fish dish. Remember, no Hawaiian feast is complete without macaroni salad and a scoop of rice (I always use brown rice to boost the nutrient and fiber value of the meal). 2 to 3 cups cooked or canned salmon, chopped 1 cup sweet onion, diced 4 cups tomato, chopped 3 green onions, thinly sliced ½ lemon, squeezed 72

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½ teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional) Salt and pepper to taste Carefully remove all bones from fish. Dice onions and place in a colander, rinsing under cold water for 30 to 60 seconds. Chop tomatoes and drain off any extra liquid. Add fish, onion, tomatoes and seasonings to a large bowl and mix with hands. Fish will flake more as you gently massage ingredients. Refrigerate at least 30 minutes before serving. Coconut spinach 6 cups fresh spinach ½ cup coconut milk 1 teaspoon chicken broth concentrate In a small bowl, mix coconut milk and chicken broth concentrate (if using a bouillon cube, dissolve it in hot water). Place spinach in a microwave-safe dish and toss with coconut milk mixture. Cook on high two minutes or until spinach wilts. Salt to taste. Editor’s note: For signed copies of Tiffany Haugen’s popular book Cooking Salmon & Steelhead, which contains more than 130 delicious recipes, send a check for $25 (free S&H) to Haugen Enterprises, P.O. Box 275, Walterville, OR 97489. This and other specialty cookbooks by Tiffany can also be ordered at tiffanyhaugen.com.

Charter Spotlight ALASKA SPORTFISHING EXPEDITIONS

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There is just something about spending a relaxing day ďŹ shing the pristine waters of Alaska, with little to worry about but what you have on the hook and the topic of conversation. Time on the boat trolling or ďŹ&#x201A;y-ďŹ shing an elevated lake is time spent relaxing and reconnecting with friends, family and nature. It doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t matter if you are saltwater ďŹ shing along Alaskaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Inside Passage, freshwater ďŹ shing on a nearby stream, or ďŹ&#x201A;y-ďŹ shing one of the stateâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s three million lakes, sharing the experience of landing that king salmon or halibut with family and friends is worth more than the gold Alaska is famous for. This is not the place to come for those who are looking to combat ďŹ sh - standing shoulder to shoulder with other anglers, casting over one anotherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lines. Get away from the frenzy and noise, and enjoy the pristine surroundings and solitude ďŹ shing Southeast Alaskaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s waters has to offer its anglers. We offer three excellent lodge ďŹ shing experiences in the Ketchikan area. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re bound to ďŹ nd exactly what you are looking for at one of these lodges! Our ďŹ shing lodges offer excellent ďŹ shing packages, each with a unique experience. For guided saltwater or freshwater ďŹ shing, look no further than The Cedars Lodge. For a purely self-guided expedition, Silverking Lodge is your destination. And if you want to customize your experience with some guided ďŹ shing and some self-guided, spend some time with us at Clover Pass Resort. Now is the perfect time to schedule your ďŹ shing trip! www.ketchikanalaskaďŹ shing.com

Before heading back to meet the ﬂoatplane, we watched a pair of brown bears chase silver salmon mere feet from us. Close encounters with big bears is something I can’t get enough of, and this ﬁshing experience quickly became a favorite memory.

STONY RIVER HOT SPOTS

It was remote Alaskan salmon ﬁshing at its best.

STRIKING SILVER IN EGEGIK

The best of the best coho fishing I’ve experienced was the week I spent with Bruce Hallingstad of Becharof Lodge (becharoflodge.net, 208-337-8211) on the remote Egegik River. Once in camp, the fishing was unlike anything I’d ever seen. I was sent there to film two TV shows for the Outdoor Channel, and we got the first one done while standing on a single rock. From that rock, less than a quarter-mile from where Becharof Lake creates the Egegik River, I applied four different fishing methods and landed and released over 20 silvers in less than two hours. The camera crew and I continued fishing when the filming ended, landing and releasing over 60 coho from that spot – there’s little doubt we could have latched into many more. The next day we moved upstream and there were just as many fish. Same for the next hole above that, where the lake spilled into the river. In fact, at that spot I also landed some whopper chums and a few pink salmon. One of my most memorable coho moments came a few days later when Bruce took me to Becharof Lake. The water was so clear I could count pebbles on the bottom, 40 feet down. I could also see immense schools of coho. The current was flowing fast near the lake’s outlet, building up

We hiked from the plane to the fishing hole on trails carved by bears. “We’ve been fishing this spot for 24 years and have never seen another person on it,” noted Curly Warren, owner of Stoney River Lodge (907-526-5211). “In fact, we’ve never seen another footprint other than our own.” Unpacking the rods and our gear we situated ourselves on the riverbank. The water was low and running clear – so clear, in fact, polarized glasses weren’t even necessary to spot the silver salmon lying in the stream. My first cast with a Pixie lure proved the fish were feisty. The same was true on the second and third casts. As many casts as I wanted to make, that’s how many fish I could seemingly catch. I switched to an egg-sucking leech and a fly rod. That presentation quickly produced fish. I landed many fish that morning, and the next day Curly flew me to another river, and on day three we hit yet another river: the Holitna. Each day was packed with fish-catching fun without another angler in sight.

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speed as it neared the headwaters of the Egegik River. Bruce ran the boat, so all I had to do was cast, hook fish, release and repeat. Never have I seen coho swim from such depths to attack lures. It was a thrilling way to spend my last day with Bruce and solidified the fact that this was my best-ever coho experience. As coho fishing builds towards a peak later in summer, now is a great time to organize your trip. Plan, dream and make those dreams reality, for only then will you realize just how special fishing can be throughout the great state of Alaska. ASJ Editor’s note: Signed copies of Scott Haugen’s popular book, A Flyfisher’s Guide To Alaska, can be obtained by sending $38 (includes S&H) to Haugen Enterprises, P.O. Box 275, Walterville, OR 97489. The 455-page work is one of the most complete travel guides ever written for anglers heading to Alaska. It can also be ordered at scotthaugen.com.

ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

Author Scott Haugen cast lures and watched coho travel from over 40 feet deep, amid Becharof Lake’s crystal-clear waters, to attack his presentations. It was sight ﬁshing on a whole new level. (SCOTT HAUGEN)

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Be Our Guest S TIPS FOR HOW TO FIT IN LIKE A LOCAL ON YOUR NEXT ALASKA FISHING TRIP BY JEFF LUND

o you don’t live here, but you love to visit. Cool. Your summer trip to Alaska will hopefully result in plenty of great fights with salmon, halibut and other species, as well as greatly benefit the local economies of fishing towns across the state. Whether it’s your first time, or 20th, here are some general things to keep in mind while you’re having the time of your life:

Combat ﬁshing is a thing in summer in Alaska as anglers can overwhelm popular rivers. But Jeff Lund believes you can keep your distance and respect those ﬁshing near you without compromising your chance to catch that prized trout or salmon. (JEFF LUND) aksportingjournal.com | APRIL 2016

ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

Troy Fast of Manteca, Calif., brings in a silver salmon to put on his stringer near Whale Pass on Prince of Wales Island. (JEFF LUND)

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Sarah Palin jokes are old. Really old. Locals

are local. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been coming up to Alaska the same week for 20 years, that means youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been to Alaska for 20 weeks, not 20 years. Few things are more irritating to locals than the entitlement attitude of people acting like residents, even though theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve never experienced a Last Frontier winter. We love returning clients, guests and friends because the majority of them are kind, courteous, ethical and thoughtful. The more gracious you are as a guest, the more gracious most locals are as your hosts.

Remember

the local staff â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the kids who cut your ďŹ sh, wash the dishes and box your ďŹ sh. If your ďŹ sh comes through a little thawed or the plastic loses its seal, remember that in many cases it was a high school kid earning money for college who did nothing wrong; the seal just failed. When you call the lodge, sometimes the kids feel the brunt of your anger. Yes, you pay a lot of money, and yes, your ďŹ sh should be properly preserved so you can enjoy it. But remember exactly whom you are taking it out on when you want blood for your freezer-burned ďŹ let.

Fish

move. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not like that rock on your favorite river where ďŹ sh stack up all the time. A king salmon doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t live off that rocky shore that you went to last year. It was passing through, so the passive-aggressive approach to get your guide to move where you went last year isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t a good idea. The ďŹ sh are where they are. Let the guide do his or her job.

ON THE RIVER This is where I spend most of my summer. I want solitude and I want ďŹ sh. I know Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll get both, but I also know Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll have interactions with visitors, most of which are ďŹ ne. Here are a few things to remember when you stumble out of the woods and onto a stretch of river euphoria:

&RPEDW ÂżVKLQJ LV FRPEDW ÂżVKLQJ but it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to be. In more rural areas, nobody ďŹ shes just the water in front of them. You just pick a spot thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a good casting point. This is especially true with ďŹ&#x201A;y ďŹ shing. So if someone enters the water downstream from me at what they believe is a respectful distance, that is likely where I am swinging my ďŹ&#x201A;y â&#x20AC;&#x201C; connected to it and waiting for the pull. Simply put, thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s where Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m ďŹ shing. Dropping in at the bottom of the run is taking away where Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m ďŹ shing. I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t own the river, sure, but a kind word and/or patience goes a long way in allowing everyone to experience the solitude you are.

Respectful

too.

distance is a relative term

If I can cast, ďŹ&#x201A;y or spin within 10 feet of the length of the ďŹ shing hole, thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a single-person spot â&#x20AC;&#x201C; two if I know the other person. If Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m at a ďŹ shing hole, I should be able to have a shot at the ďŹ sh in the hole. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s why Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m there and why I got there early. To have my potential ďŹ sh cut in half by someone who scoots in without so much as a â&#x20AC;&#x153;do you mind?â&#x20AC;? is impolite. The same thing goes in reverse. That person beat me to the river; who am I to divide his or her spot in half, especially since any decent angler is going to move up and down the run to cover all aksportingjournal.com | APRIL 2016

ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

Dimos Birakos holds up his ﬁrst-ever salmon. It wasn’t his last, which is what makes trips to the Last Frontier special. Enhance your trip by respecting the locals, fellow anglers and the hosts of your adventure. (JEFF LUND)

the water? Be polite. If someone does ask if I mind, of course I’m going to lie and say, “No, go for it,” because at least that person understands common courtesy. They are probably someone with whom I could share a medium-sized run, but I’ll likely be moving on shortly because it’s not what either of us wanted to do.

,I , GR JHW WR ¿VK WKH

run I want without being squeezed

out or pinching someone out of their spot, the goal then becomes catching ﬁsh. As much as I say that “it’s about 82

ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

,I WKHUH DUH D FRXSOH

in just a few seasons. Dead fish don’t spawn. If you are in it to take home fish, don’t get too worked up if you lose one. A happy angler catches more fish. All things said, you are weeks away from the trip of a lifetime. As you figure out what gear you need for the summer, remember that an optimistic, friendly attitude is often the most important thing to pack for Alaska. ASJ

really big, really nice resident trout and you kill them out of the gene pool, the river will take a turn toward “used to be” because abundance can be catastrophically damaged by just a few anglers

Editor’s note: Jeff Lund is the author of Going Home, a memoir about ﬁshing and hunting in Alaska and California. For more details, visit JeffLundBooks.com.

the experience,” the truth is that the experience of catching fish is much better than the experience of not catching fish. If it isn’t the point, it certainly is one of them. At the same time, I get that the regulations stipulate certain fish can be caught and kept, but just because you can, doesn’t mean you should.

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With plenty of tasty salmon in Alaskan rivers, anglers and bears may very well end up sharing the banks. Be aware that bruins have just as much a right to ﬁsh there as you do. (USFWS)

BEARS ARE ANGLERS TOO

TIPS FOR SAFELY FISHING AROUND ALASKA’S MANY BRUINS

ears in Alaska are a fact of life, especially for anglers. How we deal with them – and live and play in their presence – is a topic that often generates a great deal of speculation and debate. What steps should we, as fishermen, take to avoid confrontation? Is carrying pepper spray always a good idea? What about firearms, and which are best? With the encroachment of civilization and less habitat comes an increase in the number of bear encounters, especially in the more popular salmon-fishing areas of Southcentral Alaska, like the Kenai Peninsula. With this increase in bear activity, the above questions are worth asking ourselves. Here are some answers to those and other queries you might have.

SHARE WITH BEARS While bears are most active during evening hours, trouble can occur at any time, making it important for an-

glers in Alaska to ﬁrst and foremost be “bear aware,” and that means being in constant touch with where you are and what you are doing. Larry Lewis is a wildlife technician for the Alaska Department of Fish and Game, and teaching bear safety is one of his duties. He maintains that people often get in trouble because they lose touch with their surroundings, becoming totally engrossed in their ﬁshing. The other problem, he says, is complacency or a cavalier attitude, believing that “it couldn’t happen to me,” or that because I know all the “rules” for being in bear country, or because I am carrying a weapon or bear spray, I’ll be alright. While it is extremely important to be mindful of bear-country rules, Lewis emphasizes they are only guidelines and never a guarantee. After years of dealing with nuisance bears and investigating attacks, he says the one thing he’s learned for certain is that these animals, just like people, are individuals and it is

BY DAVE ATCHESON

impossible to know how each one is going to behave in a given situation. “You simply don’t know if a particular animal is agitated already,” he says. “Has it been provoked by other animals in the area, or have other ﬁshermen

This is Alaska, so you’re bound to share the Last Frontier’s beauty with the local fauna. Respecting that bears are a part of the ecosystem should be a top priority for your ﬁshing adventure. (BECCA ELLINGSWORTH)

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ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

Bear behavior is hard to predict, so it’s best to always ﬁsh in groups and make a habit of keeping an eye on them and constantly evaluate their actions. (DAVE ATCHESON)

been getting too close, breaching its comfort zone?” Lewis advises that it’s always best to err on the side of caution, and that means not ﬁshing in the middle of the night and avoiding areas where there’s even a chance of trouble. This may create a dilemma for diehard anglers, most of whom are guilty of ﬁshing during off-hours in order to beat the crowds. Nevertheless, with the ongoing loss of bear habitat and a steady increase in both the number of bears and anglers, it’s a question we may all need to take into serious consideration in the future.

WHEN A TROPHY ISN’T WORTH IT Bears are attracted to splashing fish. If you have a fish on and bear approaches, cut your line immediately – even if it’s a 30-inch rainbow. Then, slowly back out of the water and move to an open area, preferably with other people. If possible, fish in groups, or have a lookout. Fish in an open area, where you can see bears and they can see you. Try to avoid

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“tunnel vision” – make it a habit to take a break from fishing, or any other activity, and look around every few minutes. Try to avoid odors by storing fish in a bearproof container and sealed plastic bags. Bears are attracted to carcasses, so if possible fillet your fish at home.

THE CASE FOR FIREARMS The experts agree: If you are not proficient in the use of a firearm and not fully prepared to use it, don’t even consider bringing one; it only increases the chance of injuring yourself or someone else. For those comfortable carrying a gun, choose the right weapon. Many tote large-caliber pistols because of their convenient size, but experts say they are not the best choice. A hunting rifle – like a .338 or .375 caliber – is standard, although a 12-gauge shotgun loaded with rifled slugs probably offers the best protection at close range.

THE CASE FOR PEPPER SPRAY

Brown bear mothers want to protect their cubs ﬁrst and foremost. So give families as much space as you can, even if it means abandoning a premier ﬁshing spot. (DAVE ATCHESON)

For those uncomfortable packing heat or who like the addition of a nonlethal defense, pepper spray is often the answer.

CLAM GULCH LODGE

Clam Gulch Lodge is located on over 10 acres of bluff property overlooking Cook Inlet and is in the heart of the Kenai Peninsula’s outdoor recreational playground. Regardless of your favorite outdoor activities – river fishing, deep water fishing, clamming, hiking, canoeing/kayaking, photography, birding, bear watching, nature-based tours or snow machining – they can all be found within a short drive of the lodge. The lodge has 5 rooms for group sizes between 1 and 20 with a full breakfast each morning. A 6-person fully equipped cabin is also available for rent. Our website, www.clamgulch.com, has complete information about the lodge operations and services, photos of the lodge, and descriptions of clamming, fishing and outdoor activities packages available. Contact us for personalized assistance with your travel plans. We are looking forward to helping make your Alaskan adventure a very memorable one.

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BEST OF ALASKA LODGES

BEAR SAFETY 101 It’s always best to avoid an encounter and to give bears the opportunity to avoid you. First, make plenty of noise while hiking. If possible, travel in a group. Clap your hands, sing – do anything that will make your presence known. When you do have an unwanted encounter, it’s important to remain calm and never run. It’s natural for bears to give chase and it’s impossible to outrun one. First you need to identify yourself, letting the bear know you’re human by talking in a normal voice. If the bear continues approaching, become more defensive – raise your voice, wave your arms and make yourself as large as possible. If you’re in a group, have the members stand together and shout. Usually this is all it takes to avoid a confrontation. When the time comes to retreat, back away slowly, move off the trail and always leave the animal a route out. In the very rare instance of an attack, experts say you have two choices: play dead or fight back. Which option you choose depends upon whether the bear is behaving defensively or seeking food. In most cases, brown bears that attack are reacting defensively, often defending a carcass or protecting their young. If this is the case and the bear is a grizzly, play dead. Lie on your stomach, cupping your hands behind your neck. Usually the bear will end its attack once it perceives the threat over. It’s important, however, to remain in this position for as long as possible after the bear breaks away, as movement often causes the bear to return. If it’s a black bear, or any bear trying to break into a tent or cabin, fight back. For more information, go to the Alaska Department of Fish and Game’s webpage on angler safety, at www.adfg.alaska. gov/index.cfm?adfg=livingwithbears.anglersafety. Also check out BeBearAware.org. –DA Because cannisters are so easy to tote along on the belt, or, better yet, with a shoulder holster, many experts agree they are the most effective line of defense, especially for fishermen. While easy to carry, the only drawback to these sprays is that if they are discharged upwind, they can disable the user. It’s important to know how to use the spray and take the appropriate precautions. Knowing the rules and carrying a firearm or pepper spray should never preclude simple common sense. Avoid crowding bears and allow them plenty of “personal” space. Plan ahead, stay calm and make noise. Alaska is home to a vast array of wildlife. They should neither be feared nor taken for granted, and we should exalt in the fact that we are still able to share this land with them. We should respect what they represent and enjoy their presence, but always in a safe and nonthreatening manner. ASJ Editor’s note: Dave Atcheson’s latest book is Dead Reckoning, Navigating a Life on the Last Frontier, Courting Tragedy on its High Seas. He is also the author of the guidebook Fishing Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula, and National Geographic’s Hidden Alaska, Bristol Bay and Beyond. For more information, please visit his website, daveatcheson.com. 92

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FROM RUSSIA, WITH HOW ALASKAN GUIDES DISCOVERED THE MASSIVE CHAR, TROUT FISH AND SALMON TO BE CAUGHT ON THE KAMCHATKA PENINSULA

How epic can the ﬁshing be on the Kamchatka Peninsula? This lucky angler caught ﬁve 30-inch rainbows on the Zhupanova River. (BRIAN MONTALBO)

BY BRIAN MONTALBO

his year marks the silver anniversary of guided salmon and trout fishing trips in Kamchatka, Russia. In 1991, a Girdwood, Alaska-based company became the first Western outfitter to run trips there, introducing catch-and-release fly fishing and the use of helicopters to transport fishermen to the many rivers of the peninsula, and they’re still going strong. “We came to Russia looking for king and silver salmon runs, but couldn’t keep the giant rainbows off our hooks! No one complained, and the rest is history,” recalls Paul Allred, cofounder of Ouzel Expeditions along with Sharon Allred. Ouzel Expeditions (800-825-8196; 907-783-2216; ouzel .com) first started guiding clients on Alaskan rivers 39 years ago. Back then you could fish just about anywhere and get away from people. We rarely if ever saw anyone on any of the rivers in Alaska. Ouzel looked elsewhere to find trips off the beaten path – from landing on a lake inside an active volcano to tiny creeks you could barely float down. But as lodges started popping up everywhere in Alaska, it became harder to get away. So the thought was, why not go to Russia and check it out?

Sitting at the other end of the Aleutian Island chain, the Kamchatka Peninsula juts out from the northeast coast of the country, hard against the Sea of Okhotsk to the west and the Bering Sea to the east. Its only major city, Petropavlovsk, is about 925 nautical miles from Adak, Alaska, in the Aleutians. With an area of roughly 100,000 square miles but a population of just 322,000, there is plenty of rugged country to explore (and ﬁsh), though because this was Russia, getting there wasn’t going to be easy for Ouzel Expeditions. Once you reach Kamchatka’s only major city, Petropavlovsk, ﬁshing spots aren’t far away. But there are over 100,000 square miles to explore too. (BRIAN MONTALBO)

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In 1991, Ouzel Expeditions made its first trip to Russia’s rugged and mystical Kamchatka Peninsula, and now it brings clients there regularly for great scenery and fantastic fishing. Owner Paul Allred also still guides in top-notch Alaska fisheries such as the Kanektok River (below right). (BRIAN MONTALBO)

Russia, much less floated and fished down a river on its wild peninsula. On our first trip, when we landed in Kamchatka the KGB met us on the plane, and to our great relief, our Russian visas were in perfect order. They let us continue into Kamchatka. This all happened through a twist of fate. Paul and Sharon Allred had the heads of Russia’s tourism bureau, Intourist, and the national airline, Aeroflot, as houseguests for a week in Anchorage. A man named Anatoly got their Russian visas into Kamchatka, personally writing and processing them himself in Khabarovsk.

ENTERING RUSSIA

GLASNOST REQUIRED The Cold War was over but Kamchatka was still part of the Soviet Union and still hidden behind the Iron Curtain. Very few outsiders had even traveled to far eastern

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Landing in Petropavlovsk is a mind-blowing experience in and of itself. Where else can you land as a foreigner on an active air force base? It’s like ﬂying to Alaska and being able to land at Elmendorf AFB, ex-

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cept you’re surrounded by three towering, snow-covered active volcanoes, military equipment, a secret submarine base and the KGB. It’s one of the truly unique experiences you get while going on a Russian fly-fishing trip. It’s one you never stop telling your friends and family about. Even on fishing trips today, while looking out your window and taxiing to the terminal you see Russian fighter jets, attack helicopters and bunkers lining the runway. While sitting in the bar at the terminal, you can watch MiG fighter jets take off on the runway.

A lonely raft ﬂoating the Zhupanova River (in 2015) serves as a backdrop to the breathtaking scenery and spectacular ﬁshing that drew Paul and Sharon Allred to begin offering trips to Russia. (BRIAN MONTALBO)

WHAT TO EXPECT When we arrived in Kamchatka, we had no idea which rivers to explore ﬁrst. But Volodya, our Russian guide, Kamchatkan brown bears are as famous in this part of Russia as their cousins across the Bering Sea are in Alaska. (BRIAN MONTALBO)

The locals also take advantage of their homeland’s premier ﬁshing. (BRIAN MONTALBO)

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knew. Our first river we fished was right off the road system, just outside Petropavlovsk, with a population of 200,000 and home to 90 percent of the entire peninsula. After only a few casts, we caught our first 30inch rainbow. Were we dreaming? At this point we just knew we had to explore and see what

BEST OF ALASKA LODGES GIGGLEWOOD LAKESIDE INN Gigglewood Lakeside Inn offers quiet vacation cabin rentals, midway between Anchorage and Denali National Park, located at mile 87.9 on the Parks Highway. Each rental is fully furnished with all the necessities for a perfect vacation getaway... including complimentary breakfast items! Located in the center of world-class trout and salmon fishing and outstanding sightseeing adventures, the rentals are right on the edge of Alaska's wilderness! Only 20 minutes north of Willow and 35 minutes south of Talkeetna, the inn overlooks Upper Caswell Lake with an unforgettable backdrop of lake reflections. Guests will experience the perfect retreat to nature while enjoying the many scenic hiking and fishing opportunities so popular in the summer, and cross-country skiing, snow shoeing and snowmobiling activities in the winter! Sit on the dock lounge chairs, read a book, take a paddle boat ride, try dog sledding or just soak in the sights and sounds of Alaska. Rentals are pet- and smoke-free. A patio area with picnic table and chairs, gazebo, gas grill and fire pit make a perfect area for outdoor cooking and relaxing. Your hosts Linda & Larry originally constructed a weekend cabin on the property in 1981. That cabin has grown to become their full-time residence with a large lounging area, the Lodge Commons Room. Over the years, three vacation rentals were added and now your hosts get to share their piece of Alaskan paradise. 907-495-1014 • WWW.GIGGLEWOOD.COM

Gigglewood Lakeside Inn 907.495.1014 | 907-315-1947 | www.Gigglewood.com Gigglewood Lakeside Inn offers quiet vacation cabin rentals, mid-way between Anchorage and Denali National Park located at mile 87.9 on the Parks Highway. y. Each rental is fully furnished with all the necessities for a perfect vacation get-away,, including complimentary breakfast items! Your Hosts:

Linda & Larry

ﬁshing was like on the remote rivers. We thought, “What if we got away from the road system?” then asked, “Do you have ﬂoat planes?” The answer was, “No, but we have helicopters.”

Ouzel Expeditions owner Paul Allred shows off a Russian kundzha, or char. These ﬁsh can grow to massive proportions in Kamchatkan rivers. (BRIAN MONTALBO)

We have been very well rewarded over the years in Kamchatka. We’ve caught huge rainbows, up to 35 inches! Our first Russian guides wanted to eat everything we caught, so when we caught a fish they chopped it up and prepared it for us. They looked at us with a weird gaze when we would catch a nice fish and just release it. At first we were respectful and didn’t want to offend our

TRAVELING TO RUSSIA To enter Russia for any purpose other than short transit by air (less than 24 hours with no airport exit allowed) or some journeys by cruise ship or ferry ... you must possess a valid U.S. passport and a visa issued by a Russian embassy or consulate. You cannot obtain a visa upon arrival, so you must apply for your visa well in advance. If you arrive in Russia without an entry visa, border authorities will not permit you to enter the country, and you could face immediate return to the point of embarkation at your own expense, and possible ban on entering Russia for a period thereafter. –U.S DEPARTMENT OF STATE new comrades; who can blame them when life is all about survival? Then on one trip, a fisherman caught the Arctic char of all Arctic char. It was so big I didn’t even think it was a char at first. I picked it up and measured it on my body. It was from my chest to the ground! What?! It was the size of a king salmon, but unmistakably it was an Arctic char in spawning colors. Everyone in the group was blown away. I had never seen anything like it since. I wish I had had a professional photographer following our trips back then like we do on our trips now. But as I ran to get a camera and find a tape measure, the Russians had already chopped it up for fish soup. It was the trophy of all trophies and no photo to show it off.

TRAIL LAKE LODGE MOOSE PASS, AK

When you’re here, you’re one of us! Trail Lake Lodge is the quintessential down-home, feel-good place that serves as the core of your experience in the heart of the Chugach mountains and the Chugach National Forest. Welcoming and good-natured, the lodge is like an old friend who tells a few tall tales and won’t mind hearing a few more. It’s not white glove service, more like ﬁeld gloves and warm mittens, but you’re family at Trail Lake Lodge and it’s our pleasure to make your stay exciting, comfortable and hassle-free. Located within twenty miles of the Kenai and Russian Rivers, thirty miles from the Kenai Fjords National Park, Resurrection Bay and the Gulf of Alaska, we’re proud to deliver the best services in the most incredible setting Mother Nature has to offer. Find us in Moose Pass, Alaska at Mile marker 29.5 of the Seward Highway. Whether it is winter or summer we take care of every detail for your truly memorable stay at Trail Lake Lodge. www.traillakelodge.com 100

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We must get these Russians to understand the importance of photographs and bragging rights back home. For our own sanity, I measured the distance – chest to ground – at 53 inches. We’ve come a long way since those ﬁrst trips across the Bering Sea to this out-of-this-world location, and we plan to keep it going as long as we can. ASJ

ROCKY POINT RESORT

A giant rainbow trout is about to get away, but there are plenty more where that came from in this isolated corner of the former Soviet Union. (BRIAN MONTALBO)

Editor’s note: Ouzel Expeditions is a family-run business that provides clients with remote ﬂoat/ﬁshing trips in Kamchatka and Siberia in Russia and in Alaska. Learn more and keep reading more short stories by visiting OuzelExpeditions.com (website coming soon).

Rocky Point Resort is the source for all your Petersburg, Alaska, saltwater fishing needs, offering great coho and king salmon fishing trips – and more! We are proud to say we are a family-owned and -operated business and now have the fourth generation of herring jiggers and cookie bakers running around. It makes us care a lot about you and the success of your trip. Rocky Point has been in operation for 30 years, and our skippers have over 60 years of combined experience fishing these waters. All of our boats, including skiffs, are inspected by the Coast Guard and feature GPS/DEPTH sounders, and we provide all bait for salmon and halibut at the lodge. In addition, Rocky Point offers unlimited water for showers, washers, boat cleaning, etc., as well as two walk-in blast freezers at –20 degrees for your filleted wrapped fish. There is no limit on gas, bait or fishing gear! Come see us at Rocky Point – your Petersburg, Alaska, saltwater fishing resort.

www.rockypointresortak.com • (907) 772-4405

Rocky Point Resort Petersburg, AK

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BEST OF ALASKA LODGES

WILDERNESS BEACH LODGE

Join us at Wilderness Beach Lodge in beautiful Port Lions, Alaska. Relax in comfort at our all-inclusive lodge which sits beachfront on Settlers Cove. World Class Sportfishing is just moments away. All five species of Pacific Salmon, Giant Pacific Halibut, Lingcod, and multiple species of Rockfish highlight this shallow water sportfishing adventure. All from Kodiak’s finest fleet of saltwater sportfishing vessels. Shoreside you will enjoy clean comfortable rooms, gourmet meals, knowledgeable local staff, and the finest beachfront hot tub and sauna Kodiak has to offer.

www.wildernessbeachlodge.com • 877-710-WILD(9453)

BEST OF ALASKA LODGES ST. THERESA’S LAKESIDE RESORT St. Theresa’s Lakeside Resort is the optimum destination for anyone in search of an Alaska fishing experience. Our resort is located upon 25 acres of the beautiful lakeshore, with views of nature that exceed the scenic surroundings of other Soldotna lodging choices. Our lodge is just minutes away from all the great salmon, halibut and trout fishing one could dream of. Our professional guides are highly experienced and have a full knowledge of the fish on the Kenai Peninsula. Lodging doesn’t come any better than St. Theresa’s Lakeside Resort. Our cabins are known for their rustic but luxurious quality, making them superior to any other Soldotna lodging option. They are fully furnished, large, comfortable and clean. Whether your visit is an Alaska fishing trip, small honeymoon getaway, or a large wedding or corporate event, St. Theresa’s Lakeside Resort should be your destination. Our resort has the capacity to ensure an unforgettable adventure for group sizes ranging from 2 to 150 people. With our history of dozens of corporate events and successful weddings over the years, our resort is known to be the best choice for large events on the Kenai Peninsula. St. Theresa’s Lakeside Resort: “We’re more than a cabin in the back yard.” www.kenairesort.com • www.sttheresaslake.com

BEST OF ALASKA LODGES SALMON CATCHER LODGE Welcome to the Kenai Peninsula and Salmon Catcher Lodge! This is Alaska’s playground, synonymous with world-class sport fishing and so much more! The region off ers the best salmon and halibut fishing in the world, in addition to its natural beauty, abundance of wildlife, volcanoes and unlimited activities. Salmon Catcher Lodge is located right in the center of it all, and off ers the premier accommodations in the region. Whether you are traveling alone, with family or with a group, we provide a variety of accommodations to meet your lodging needs. We have the nicest lodge and cabins in the area, all located in a quiet setting with all the amenities you will need to make your stay with us a most pleasant one. From our 3-bedroom, 12bed Main Lodge to our elegant Captain’s Quarters, our first-class accommodations have various room configurations to meet the needs of our guests. Most of our units have kitchens, living rooms, free Wi-Fi, movie channels and much more. We off er a variety of packages, including river fishing for salmon and ocean fishing for halibut, utilizing the most experienced river and off shore fishing guides. We also arrange fl y-outs for fishing, bear viewing, ocean kayaking, and more. Hospitality and service is our business. To recognize those who have given so much, we have invited over 135 disabled vets and half a dozen terminally-ill children (to date) to our Lodge to enjoy and share with us the beauty and hospitality that Alaska has to off er and we will happily continue to do so! Terry & Angie Johnson

URBAN ANCHORAGE’S BACKYARD PARADISE JUST OUTSIDE THE CONCRETE JUNGLE OF ALASKA’S (BY FAR) LARGEST CITY, RECREATIONAL POSSIBILITIES ARE ENDLESS AT CHUGACH STATE PARK BY TOM REALE

f every Anchorage resident took 1 acre of Chugach State Park for themselves, there would be nearly 200,000 acres left over. This enormous park of nearly half a million acres is quite literally the city’s backyard – look at any photo of the town from the water, and the mountains serving as the city backdrop are the park’s most prominent feature. The roster of recreational activities available in the park makes up a microcosm of nearly all of Alaska’s most popular outdoor pursuits. You can hunt or

ﬁsh or hike, backpack, ski, climb rocks or ice, bike, snowmachine or parasail … and the list goes on and on. And the vast majority of the activities are (relatively) easily accessible. The park has parking lots and access points all around its perimeter, from Girdwood on the south, through the populated portions of the municipality and on up to Chugiak and along the Knik River to the north. These points provide drive-up spots where you can park your vehicle, offload your recreational gear of choice and plunge as far into the park’s interior as your time and effort allow.

Created in 1970, the park was established when the state decided to protect the Eklutna Lake area, since it’s the primary source of the town’s drinking water. In addition, the legislature wanted to provide recreational opportunities, protect scenic areas and places to view wildlife, and save the existing wilderness parts of the park. In 2011, the Department of Natural Resources put out a new management plan and accepted ideas and proposals from the public. After lots of input from commenters – both serious and borderline loony (ﬁve years and 98 pages of public input makes for, shall we say, interesting reading) – the plan was adopted on Feb. 29 of this year. The plan sets out the rules for park use in ﬁne detail, and enumerates which uses are compatible with the

Taking a break during a hike at Chugach State Park, which is adjacent to Anchorage, giving the residents of Alaska’s largest city vast recreational opportunities. (TOM REALE)

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department’s standards. There are ﬁve planning units – Eklutna-Peters Creek, Eagle River, Ship Creek, Hillside and Turnagain Arm units – with varying levels of access and differing regulations on uses. With a few exceptions, motorized access is very limited, and wilderness values prevail, giving Anchorage residents a convenient retreat to get

away from big-city chaos. So no matter what your outdoor recreational activity of choice might be, chances are you can indulge yourself somewhere in Chugach State Park. However, don’t go into the park thinking that its proximity to what passes for civilization in Alaska means that the risks and dangers of the outdoors are any less apparent. Nearly every year sees park users winding up lost, injured and occasionally killed through carelessness or just plain bad luck. Once you get away from the trailhead you’re on your own, and all the joys and dangers of a wilderness experience can be found within park boundaries. That being said, here are some ideas and guidelines for some of the park’s more popular recreational pursuits:

HIKING With scores of miles of established trails, as well as scads of open space above treeline available for rambling cross-country, you could literally spend a lifetime exploring the park. The vast

Chugach State Park rises to the east of Anchorage, between Knik and Turnagain Arms of upper Cook Inlet. The state Division of Parks & Outdoor Recreation has excellent maps and an informative brochure on their website, dnr.alaska.gov/parks, about the 495,000-acre park. (TOM REALE; ALASKA DNR) 106

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majority of hiking takes place near the established trailheads, several of which provide parking lots and restrooms, but also charge a daily parking fee. There are also numerous smaller access points without the user-friendly facilities, but the upside is there is no parking fee. From these trailheads you can either wander the more popular trails or plunge into the untracked backcountry for a few hours or a few weeks, depending on your preferences and preparation. At some of the most popular access points, like the Glen Alps parking lot at the foot of Flattop Mountain, crowded trails and even completely full parking lots are an issue on summer weekends when the weather is good. Keep that in mind when setting out for the day – and if you’ve got your heart set on climbing Flattop or hiking the Powerline Trail – get an early start. Also, be advised that lots of Alaskans have dogs, so if you’ve got one too, be prepared for lots of dog interaction – most people ignore leash laws and very few have their dogs under voice

BEST OF ALASKA LODGES FISHING BEAR CHARTERS Welcome to Tenakee Springs on Chichagof Island in Southeast Alaska. This beautiful emerald island, located between Juneau and Sitka, Alaska, is the home of Fishing Bear Charters, owned by Captain Tuck Harry and his wife Lisa Speno. Captain Harry has more than 30 years of experience as a charter boat captain and fishing guide in Southeastern Alaska and Western Washington. There are about 750,000 salmon that migrate to spawn in the rivers of this inlet. Coho, chum and pink salmon are abundant in the 14 rivers flowing into Tenakee inlet and may be taken in fresh or saltwater. The largest species of salmon, the Chinook, feed and may be landed in saltwater areas near Tenakee Springs. Halibut are also common and can be caught during the entire summer season, while steelhead migrate into local streams during the early summer. Tenakee is accessible from either Juneau or Sitka via the Alaska State Ferry or floatplane. -Tuck Harry, Fishing Bear Charters

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command. Be a good citizen and keep your animal under control, and when near heavily used areas, pick up after your pet.

Hunters have plenty of wilderness areas to hike on the lookout for moose and black bear during their respective seasons, plus lots of opportunities for upland birds and small game. (TOM REALE)

BACKPACKING If you care to venture deep into the backcountry, there’s plenty of territory to explore and few if any established campsites. You’re free to roam and set up your tent wherever you go, but please employ leave-no-trace practices, don’t crowd fellow campers and be very careful with fire. Water treatment is essential – just because the area looks pristine doesn’t mean that you’re the first humans to discover it. Boil, filter or chemically treat all drinking water unless you feel like playing Russian roulette with your G.I. tract.

WILDLIFE VIEWING This park has every Alaska game animal to be found outside of the Arctic Circle except for caribou and deer.

BEAR PAW ADVENTURE LODGING

Located near the world-famous Anchor River on Alaska’s salmon-rich Kenai Peninsula, this unique homestead property features 4 hand-crafted log cabins with full kitchens, laundry, sat-TV, Wi-Fi, on-demand hot water, leather furniture, comfy beds, BBQ and Alaska big game mounts. Your choice of Combo halibut/salmon saltwater trips, salmon or trout river trips, or fly-out trips to remote areas or you can fish on your own unguided or with other charters. Bring the family and they will enjoy wildlife and games on property and exciting nearby adventures and culture. Pamper yourself, friends and family by staying on this firstclass homestead. You don’t even need to fish to enjoy this!

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If viewing wildlife is a passion, you might not have to go far away from Anchorage to spot a critter at Chugach State Park, where moose and Dall sheep are among the park’s residents. (TOM REALE)

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Most wildlife can be viewed relatively close to the popular access points, assuming that you know where to look for various species and you’re lucky enough to be in the right place at the right time. Black and brown bears, wolves, lynx, wolverines, moose, Dall sheep, mountain goats, foxes and coyotes roam the area, and along Turnagain Arm on the park’s boundary you can spot beluga whales and harbor seals, and the occasional orca. Although you might see any of these critters at just about any time, there are some times and places where your odds increase considerably. For example, the cliffs along the Seward Highway along Turnagain Arm almost always hold Dall sheep. There’s a wide spot in the road near milepost 110

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Cross-country skiing during the long Alaska winter is popular on the park’s hundreds of miles of trails. (TOM REALE)

107 to pull over and look for animals. If you see tour buses and a bunch of cars parked here, you can be sure there are sheep in sight. They occasionally even stand right next to the road – be very careful of tourists wandering into traffic when this occurs. Driving this section of road also gives you a chance to spot the only allwhite whales in the world. Belugas head up the arm looking for hooligan, a local smelt species, or for salmon later in the summer. Another thing to look for along here is the local bore tide. Cook Inlet, which branches into Turnagain and Knik Arms, has some of the highest tides in North America, often exceeding 30 feet. When the tide comes in, it comes in with a vengeance, and the bore tide is preceded by a 6- to 10-foot wave traveling down the arm. “During the ﬁve-day window that surrounds the new and full moons – two hours and 30 minutes after Anchorage/ Fire Island low tide,” says the Alaska.org web site in terms of the best time to see

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MAN GEAR ALASKA Man Gear Alaska, LLC is a small family run partnership. We do believe that it is still possible to maintain a manufacturing facility in the U.S, and strive to keep goods made in America; at this time still made in Alaska. We look forward to the idea of creating more jobs for those within our community. Our goal in manufacturing these holsters is to provide a rugged, high quality, handcrafted product. The design principle of our “The Ultimate” chest holster is one that has been in Alaska for well over 15 years, and we are proud to be able to continue to create a holster with craftsmanship and quality which we believe will serve its purpose in the ﬁeld for years.

Reliability Combined with Innovation We are excited to introduce our new Patent Pending holster design for Semi-Automatic pistols: The Gen2MTU line of holsters is a step up in comfort, convenience and ergonomic innovation. The design stemmed from a desire to make a 1911 holster with added features speciﬁcally for that gun. Once we ﬁeld tested this holster, we received immediate positive response, and requests for the new design started to pour in after our official release. We quickly realized that this line needed to expand to incorporate the key features that would carry over to the other semi-auto holsters. The Gen2-MTU line of holsters are still made out of the same high quality materials as the original “Ultimate Chest Holster,” with only a few changes made to hardware to achieve the tactical look and feel. Take a look and compare. We think you will appreciate what we have left the same, and admire those changes that we have made.

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Hikers traverse a mountain above Turnagain Arm, just outside the urban chaos of Anchorage. Even in the shadows of a city of 300,000 these Alaskans don’t have to go far to enjoy the outdoors. (TOM REALE)

it at the Bird Point pullout. Further south you can scan the high cliffs for mountain goats, and the open hillsides for black bears, especially in the spring. Bald eagles are frequently seen overhead, and ducks, geese, swans and sandhill cranes hang out at Potter Marsh near milepost 117, just south of town. Moose can be spotted just about anywhere, but for the optimal moose-viewing experience, head in on the Powerline Trail from the Glen Alps parking lot in the fall. During the rut, which typically starts around Sept. 15, bulls gather harems of cows in the valley along Campbell Creek, ﬁghting off unwanted rivals and just generally putting on a show. On a crisp fall day when the tundra is changing colors, the mountains have a light dusting of snow and the moose are in rut, this is one of the prime wildlife viewing op-

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portunities in the entire state – and it’s right outside Anchorage!

HUNTING Within the park, you can hunt both big and small game, with certain restrictions. Most of the big game hunting is by drawing or registration permit (check Alaska Department of Fish and Game regulations for details). There are also areas open for regular-season moose and black bear hunts, as well as areas for hunting small game with ﬁrearms and archery equipment.

FISHING Lakes and streams are open to ﬁshing for salmon, trout and Dolly Varden, both wild and hatchery ﬁsh. The most popular salmon stream is Bird Creek, south of town at milepost 101. Coho, chum and pink salmon spawn here, and Dollies hang out as well. Eagle

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River also holds salmon and Dollies, as do several smaller streams along the park’s periphery. Eklutna Lake has rainbows and you can catch them from rowboats, canoes, kayaks and inﬂatables (the launch is for hand-carried boats only). Electric trolling motors are permitted, but outboards are not. The lake also has a camping and picnic area, hiking trails and a road for mountain biking.

CLIMBING Ice and rock climbers can ﬁnd lots of places to practice their craft while staying very close to town. Along Turnagain Arm, you can often see climbers belaying one another as they climb the cliffs next to the road. There are numerous named routes along the highway and accessible via short hikes away from the road. For detailed info on routes and access, check out the Seward Highway section of rockclimbing.com, and alaskaiceclimbing.com for South Anchorage ice climbs in the Southcentral section of the site. For climbers who want to get away from the highway, there are plenty of routes for rock, ice and mixed climbs in the park’s interior. “Alpine climbers will go to Ptarmigan Peak near Flattop for mixed alpine-style climbs,” notes local expert Adam Baxter. “And a lot of guys will compete to see who can climb all the peaks over 5,000 feet in the Front Range the fastest.”

Before venturing onto these slopes, be sure to acquire some avalanche safety skills, and check the cnfaic.org web site for recent weather info and skier reports of conditions and avalanches.

BIKING Mountain biking is very popular here, and trails for bikes are available at just about every access point. However, not all trails are open to bikes; signs at trailheads will let you know whether or not bikes are allowed. In recent years, fat-tire biking has grown almost exponentially; we encountered more bikers than hikers on a recent winter hike. Here again, there are some trail restrictions – with some trails closed to all bikes and others open only to fat-tire riders. To access these trails, tires must be of a speciﬁc size and pressure rating.

BEARS No Alaska outdoors guide is complete without mentioning bruins. Both black and brown/grizzly bears inhabit the area, and both species are fairly numerous. Don’t be lulled into thinking that just because you’re within sight of the city or mere hundreds of yards from a popular parking lot you’re free from taking all the usual precautions when traveling in bear country. Keep your eyes and ears open, be careful with food and pets, carry bear spray if you’re so inclined, and pay attention to your surroundings.

SKIING

SO MUCH TO DO

The park is a wonderland for cross-country skiers of all kinds. A few of the trails in the more popular spots are groomed for classic X-C skiing, but most are just left for skiers to break trail and ﬁnd routes in the backcountry. The trails near Glen Alps are often traveled heavily enough that even skate skiers can get on them and make good time along the Powerline Trail. Hardcore randonnée, or alpine touring, skiers have some great places to practice as well. Peaks Two and Three behind Flattop get a lot of traffic, as do some of the spots along Hiland Road near the Eagle River access points.

This list of activities is just a sampling of what’s available for outdoor recreationists. Just about anything you can think of to do in the Alaska outdoors, you can do in Chugach State Park. However, you can’t do everything everywhere, so before engaging in any activity, make sure it’s allowed in the section of the park you’ll be in. If in doubt, check the park website at dnr.alaska.gov/parks/units/ chugach or at the ADFG website (adfg .alaska.gov). The more time you spend in the park, the more things you’ll ﬁnd to do. It’s a true natural treasure within sight of Alaska’s largest city, a gem we’re very lucky to have nearby. ASJ

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Best of Kodiak

KODIAK GUIDES Alaska’s Kodiak Guides, owned and operated by Master Guide Jim Bailey, has been in operation for over 35 years on privately owned land at Kizhuyak Bay on Kodiak Island. Jim is a commercial pilot and has a master marine license. The camp is situated on three privately owned acres and consists of four cabins, oil heat stoves, showers, and a full-time cook. We ﬂy out of Kodiak to the campsite, hunt on foot, boating to the established trails in nearby canyons. Each hunting season we see lots of bears and it is a productive area; Alaska’s Dept. of Fish & Game does a very good job counting bears in all areas of Kodiak. We hunt one-on-one (one guide for each hunter), fair chase. Since this is a drawing permit hunt, deadlines for applications are Dec. 1 and May 1. No one can be 100% successful, but our success rate is high. -Jim Bailey, Kodiak Guides

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THE DEVIL’S DUE

A MOUNTAINSIDE COVERED IN THORNY BRUSH MAKES A SEWARD BRUIN HUNT TOUGHER THAN IT SEEMED BY KRYSTIN AND BIXLER MCCLURE

“B

ear burgers?” It was a simple text from our friend Keith. He and his pescatarian coworker, Ray, were in route to Seward in mid-May. They have been coming to Seward annually for over 10 years and a few years ago we introduced Keith, who’s from Seattle, to the delicious peppery meat of the black bear in burger form. He has been raving about it since and always asks if we had gotten a bear before boarding the plane. Unfortunately, the last few years we had not been successful for a number of reasons. “Not yet,” Bixler texted back to Keith. But we were just getting into the car on a beautiful May day to do a “bear drive” and glass the many mountains around Seward for black bear. All spring long we see hunters along the Seward Highway scanning the easier mountainsides for an opportunistic black bear. We shy away from those spots and focus on a particular mountain, one that we can see from our hot tub. We pulled to our usual turnout with a full view of the steep mountain. A few years ago we saw the largest black bear we had ever seen on this very mountain, sliding down a snowy avalanche chute. It was also the same day we were scheduled to haul our boat out to paint the bottom and we’ve been kicking ourselves ever since for not pursuing the bear. We learned our lesson.

Living in Seward, the McClures’ view of a nearby mountain provides plenty of black bear sightings in spring. When they spotted one last season, they jumped at the chance to hunt it in hopes of scoring tasty meat. (BIXLER MCCLURE)

I GOT OUT OF the car and the ﬁrst thing I noticed was a moving black dot above the thickets of alder. I pointed to Bixler, who conﬁrmed it was a black bear lazily moving along the mountainside. “I’m going after it!” Bixler exclaimed and started putting together the hunting pack while I watched the bear. Bixler

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was wearing shorts and a T-shirt and I was skeptical. I asked him if he wanted to change into pants and he said no, but grabbed his camo long sleeve. I told him there was no way I would climb unless he shot the bear (I hate steep mountains) and he agreed. Thankfully, the mountain was in cell range. I dropped Bixler off at the edge of the woods and he scampered into the forest. I drove back to our usual turnout and set up the spotting scope. With his legs of steel, Bixler climbed through the forest and skirted the tree line to a rocky outcrop. He peeked his head over the outcrop and saw the black bear asleep below. It was curled in a ball, so Bixler waited for it to move to ﬁnd the head. The bear perked up and Bixler shot it. With its last rush of adrenaline, it ran into the alders before collapsing. I heard the shot echo from the mountain and then my phone rang. An excited Bixler told me the entire story in one breath and then explained where he was on the mountain. I looked at the imposing mountainside and sighed – it looked like I would be climbing after all. Bixler set to work skinning and butchering the bear while I navigated a sea of devil’s club try-

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ing to find the game trail Bixler had described on the phone. I found the trail, which ended at a seemingly impenetrable wall of alders. Twice I turned around while Bixler convinced me to keep going. I bushwhacked my way through, periodically calling Bixler to orient me to where he was butchering the bear. I eventually arrived after a few hours of bushwhacking and endless phone calls and shouting to find Bixler. He had finished butchering the bear and was putting the quarters and ribs into meat bags. We stuffed the bear into our hunting packs and started our descent. One thing about this particular mountain is that there are some cliffy sections we needed to avoid and I impressed on Bixler that we travel leftwards. Unfortunately, the alder mass made it impossible to travel our desired direction.

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Once again we were in thick devil’s club and both of us complained endlessly about the sharp spines penetrating our skin. It was right here that Bixler realized his plan to wear shorts was not the best, as his legs were bleeding from scratches from this spiny plant. We traversed the devil’s club and then stood at the top of a steep, mossy cliff. A snaking animal

IF YOU GO Alaska has far more liberal black bear seasons than the Lower 48, where spring hunts are typically available by special permit only. Many Alaskan units, including GMU 7 around Seward, have no closed season, tags are available over the counter, and residents can harvest as many as three a year. However, nonresidents must draw into a tag for select areas, such as Prince of Wales Island and elsewhere in the Panhandle. Baiting is allowed in some units at certain times, as well. For more, go to adfg.alaska.gov and look under the Hunting tab for Game Species and Black Bears. If you are like us and lucky enough to live in a place where you have hunting opportunities literally next to your house or on your commute, it makes sense to always be prepared. Have your guns sighted in and ready to go. Have your pack ready with everything you need. Have your camo and protective gear in the car as well for a quick change. Then, if the opportunity presents itself, you’re ready to start your stalk! That served us well on his trip. –BM

This mountainside outside Seward features plenty of sharp devil’s club, which turned out to be a painful obstacle for Bixler McClure, who mistakenly decided to hunt in shorts. (BIXLER MCCLURE)

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One of the most unique aspects of living in Alaska is being within such close proximity of game like this bear. The same day they were hunting this bruin, the McClures were grilling up fresh wildgame burgers for themselves and friends. (BIXLER MCCLURE)

trail made its way down and we decided to follow it rather than ﬁght the devil’s club. With each footstep we carefully walked downward, holding on to any branches to ease our descent. After a previous bear hunt I had invested in a pair of rubber-coated gloves that allowed me to grab devil’s club, and I was wearing them this time. Bixler forgot his and tried to avoid grabbing

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the plant, but I would periodically hear cries of pain as he grabbed one out of necessity. After a ﬁnal slide down a mossy slope, we made it back to the road. We emerged from the forest as another group of hunters drove by with looks of jealousy. We loaded up the bear in the car and headed home.

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MONSTERS

THEY’RE OUT THERE

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FLIPPING OUT FOR BEAR BURGERS The blue cheese in this dish adds some needed fat to the black bear meat, and the jalapeno and onion add a kick. By grinding it all together, each bite has a great mix of ﬂavors. This recipe makes at least two burgers, depending on how hungry you are from the hunt. 1 pound black bear meat Salt and pepper to taste One jalapeño Blue cheese to taste ¼ red onion

(BIXLER MCCLURE)

BIXLER HUNG THE BEAR in the garage while I snapped a picture for Keith. I heard nothing, but soon a truck pulled into our driveway and an excited Keith and Ray stepped out of the vehicle. We told Keith that it would be the freshest black bear he had ever had and we lopped of a piece of the meat and sent

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With a grinder, grind black bear meat, jalapeño, onion, and blue cheese into a bowl. Add salt and pepper to taste. Mix thoroughly and form into patties. Grill normally, but be sure to cook thoroughly since it is black bear meat. Serve with whatever burger toppings you like. –BM it through the grinder for burgers. Bixler barbecued three bear burgers and one halibut burger for Ray (we have yet to convince him to try bear meat, but we ask every time). The four of us dined on the deliciousness as Bixler and I retold the story. “So, are you guys going to shoot a

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fresh bear for me every year?” Keith asked, jokingly. Bixler was tending to his bandaged legs while I periodically extracted devil’s club spines from my arm. We both looked at each other and laughed. “Yeah, we’ll see about that.” ASJ

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BROTHERS FOR THE BUCK

TWO BROTHERS PROMISE TO RETURN FOR THEIR YOUNGER SIBLING’S NEWBORN DAUGHTER … AFTER THEIR BLACKTAIL HUNT

BY BJORN DIHLE

L Sunset on Admiralty Island, which was the destination for Juneau-area residents Bjorn and Luke Dihle, who had to leave their baby brother Reid at home as his wife was close to giving birth to their daughter. (BJORN DIHLE)

ast summer, my little brother Reid was faced with a tough decision. His ﬁrst child’s due date was Aug. 1, which also happened to be opening day for Sitka blacktail deer. This meant he was going to have to be real tricky and risk his marriage if he wanted to get out after a buck. I suggested sneaking into the mountains for a morning hunt and returning in time to feed his newborn raw-deer heart. He was philosophical, even superstitious about the predicament. “It will be a boy; I’ll name him Ruger

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Bjorn Dihle tries to stay dry at camp during a rainstorm, a rather frequent occurrence in the Alaskan panhandle. (LUKE DIHLE)

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Olaf Dihle and he will become the greatest hunter ever,” Reid said. The summer passed quickly and his wife Meghan’s belly plumped up like a blueberry. Luke, our older brother, had been dreaming of little other than opening day since he’d finished his hunting season the previous winter. He’s kind of the John Lennon of meat hunters, the sort of guy who dreams big, needs two giant freezers and has a fan base of young girls (his three daughters). His girls are more efficient at butchering and processing fish and game than the majority of outdoorsmen, including me. It’s always a little embarrassing when a 7-yearold shows you up filleting a salmon on the docks. Generally speaking, Luke can talk Reid into doing anything when it comes to hunting. For example, let’s say there’s a mountain goat three mountains over, a blizzard coming and little chance of the two guys finding their way back to the tent – quite possibly for several days. And throw in a sexually frustrated Sasquatch, a few KGB hitmen and a series of vertical cliffs that would liquefy the bowels of most professional mountaineers. Luke would still want to make the stalk. With a few grunts, he’d convince Reid into going and I’d sit at the tent drinking whiskey, eating Cheez-Its and getting weird.

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Besides plentiful blacktail deer, Admiralty Island is also known as the “fortress of the bear.” (BJORN DIHLE)

So, it was a bit of a disturbing surprise when Reid decided not to join us on the annual Aug. 1 foray. Whatever happened to putting family first? Luke is obsessed with mountain goats – they’re his favorite animals to hunt. It’s gotten so bad that whenever I walk into his house I feel like I’m entering some sort of pagan ritual. There are horns all over and sometimes he and his wife Trish are dressed up like goats. For years he’s wanted to pull a doubleheader, first making a goat hunt on the mainland south of Juneau. Afterwards, if we had luck, he wanted to put the meat in a tote of ice on his boat and jaunt up a mountain on Admiralty Island for Sitka blacktails. I, as the token fat guy on our hunts, am horrified and exhausted just thinking about this. Under the guise of being a good brother, I suggested we do one or the other hunt, and then try to be back in town for the birth of Reid and Meghan’s baby. I was, after all, Meghan’s substitute birthing coach. I took the job very seriously and had stocked up on 40s of Steele Reserve, barf bags, a mixed CD of meditation music and a variety of Little Debbie tasty snacks, mostly to make the whole process more enjoyable for myself.

IF THE WEATHER WAS good, we’d climb high and try

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for goats. If the weather was marginal, we’d clamber up a smaller mountain and go after deer. And if we were lucky, the baby would be late and we’d make it back in time to pretend we’re good brothers. On July 31, after drinking a cup of coffee, I shouldered my pack and walked down to the South Douglas boat launch to meet Luke. Meghan’s contractions were becoming more regular, and I had a suspicion that it would not be long. Nonetheless, we tore off onto a ﬂat ocean. We were cowboys, maybe even desperadoes – the sort of men who drink kale smoothies and occasionally leave the toilet seat up to spite our ladies. We kept a sharp lookout in the fog and steady rain, as there are plenty of things like icebergs, deadheads, rocks, whales and other boats to run into in Stephens Passage. Humpback whales appeared for a few moments like giant gray ghosts before sounding back into the depths. Loons, surf scoters and

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Harlequin ducks skimmed over the ocean and then conglomerated in large raucous rafts. Salmon, on their way to spawn in streams and rivers, leapt constantly into the air. Gradually, the fog began to lift, revealing the rainforest and mountains of Admiralty Island. “Going after a goat would be iffy,” I said, staring up at heavy clouds clinging to the mountains on the mainland. Rain drummed the canvas top of Luke’s skiff. “Yeah, we might just be sitting in the clouds for days. You want to give Admiralty a try?” Luke asked. While I enjoy hunting and eating those white monarchs of the mountains, I’d rather chase deer. An August buck, if the meat is properly cared for, is delectable. I’d been drooling for a month or more just thinking about the ﬁrst venison of the year. I nodded, and we slowly putted past a reef and entered a large bay. Inquisitive harbor seals circled the boat as Luke anchored. I studied brown bear, deer, mink and otter tracks crisscrossing the tidal ﬂats.

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After the hunt, an opportunity to score some tasty halibut arose for Luke (pictured) and his brother. (BJORN DIHLE)

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The easiest place to hang and stash our gear was in a small stand of spruce trees near a salmon stream. We hoisted our deﬂated raft as high as we could above a couple well-used bear beds. After pissing around the tree – hoping to discourage any bruins from doing too thorough of a job investigating – we hiked along bear trails through a series of meadows. And we knew there were bears there. Admiralty Island is the paradigm of Southeast Alaskan wilderness. Its true name is Kootznoowoo, which in Tlingit means something like “fortress of the brown bear.” The Russians called it Fear Island. At 100 miles long by about 25 miles wide, many believe it has the densest population of brown bears in the world, at one per square mile. Annually, around 50 bears are killed on the island by sport hunters. The hunters target big males, which isn’t thought to negatively affect the population. Males kill cubs and subadults to eat and bring females into estrus, so some say

Bjorn scored this fork-horn blacktail on the hunt. (BJORN DIHLE)

it may even help. I’m hesitant to drink that Kool-Aid but will vouch that there deﬁnitely appears to be no shortage of bears on the island.

Many people are surprised to learn that Admiralty has only one documented case of a bear killing a person, a timber cruiser in Eliza Harbor in 1929,

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after he startled and shot it. Nonetheless, Luke and I hollered as we waded through thick brush towards a steep ridge. The blueberries and huckleberries were so thick we kept getting distracted from hiking. Soon, we both had purple mouths. Zigzagging up game trails and through devils club, we eventually crested the ridge and found a nice critter trail to follow. In the evening, we broke out of tree line and into the disorienting swirl of clouds. Wandering around in the fog on Admiralty is always a little unnerving. It’s easy to get turned around and there’s always the possibility of stepping on a bear – an exciting, but rarely enjoyable phenomenon that often ends with both bear and human unexpectedly having diarrhea. One bear I ran into crapped so much as it ran away, I couldn’t help but think of the words “fecal propulsion.” Personally, I prefer crapping my pants privately. Or in the company of my girlfriend, MC. For some strange reason it brings her no

end of joy. She lights up whenever she tells another “and then Bjorn pooped his pants story” at the wine tasting and etiquette parties we frequently attend. Luke and I bumbled into a doe and then a small spike-fork that stared at us with tragic innocence just 20 yards away. “Maybe we should set up camp here before we spook the rest of the area,” Luke suggested. While eating dinner, we watched the small buck and a couple of does come in and out of view as the wind swirled sheets of mist. It was well after dark when I took our food a short ways from camp to hang in a mountain hemlock tree. I was pissing around the area when I heard Luke scream, “No! No! This can’t be happening!” If he was being mauled by a bear, his aggressor was the quiet type. Maybe a mute bear, or perhaps it was the KGB – or was it perhaps the IRS? I knew those lowlifes would eventually catch up with me. I hustled back to ﬁnd Luke holding

a flashing, beeping gadget that looked like it was thinking about blowing up. “What the heck?” I asked. “I accidentally hit the rescue button on my new inReach tracker!” he yelled. I bellowed with laughter as he cursed and hammered the touch screen. What a funny story! I could tease him forever about this! I could just see the headlines in the newspaper now: “Deer hunter rescued after electronic accident.” Suddenly, I realized I was with Luke and would suffer the same sort of defamation. Brother Reid would tease us forever about this. We put our heads together and tried to figure out how to turn the thing off. Nothing seemed to work. Soon we were both screaming. “I’m going to throw it off a cliff!” I yelled. “No, wait! I’m going to shoot it!” A half-hour of horror later, both of us were still hyperventilating, but we’d finally figured out how to turn the cursed thing off and send a message asking not to be rescued. We rolled into our sleeping bags a bit emotionally exhausted,

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but looking forward to ﬁrst light.

Luke Dihle had to work for it but he got this blacktail buck as a nice consolation for the mountain goat hunt he passed up on. (BJORN DIHLE)

THE BOWL WE CAMPED next to was devoid of deer in the morning, likely a result of our theatrical performance the night before. Glassing with our riﬂe scopes, we slowly clambered up the ridge and into the clouds. In the far distance we made out three bucks – all looked like nice fork-horns and frying pan trophies. Southeast Alaska’s deer are a smaller subspecies of blacktails. Their ancestors wandered up the Paciﬁc Northwest coast to Southeast Alaska around 10,000 or so years ago as the massive Cordilleran ice sheet began to melt. They intrepidly made mileswide ocean crossings and colonized virtually every island. Through time, they grew stockier, smaller and became more accustomed to the rain and darkness. When heavy snows came, most starved to death or died from exposure. Even today, populations vary greatly depending on the winters. Alaska Department of Fish and Game estimates there are roughly 200,000 blacktails in Southeast Alaska – give or take quite a few depending on the winter – with hunters annually harvesting around 12,300. Some hunters prefer to go after early-season bucks in the high country; others like to wait for

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the late season when snows push them down. When the clouds broke, revealing an expanse of mountains and ocean so beautiful that it made me pause, it was a clear reminder why I love hunting in early season the best. We crept from rock to boulder and spotted another three deer below in a valley some 500 yards away. One was a decent fork, but there was no way to continue without being seen. Luke wanted a bigger buck and suggested hiking, a risk in that it could spook what remained in the area. I’d never passed on shooting a fork-horn and wasn’t about to start, even if there were bigger bucks around. When the clouds rolled back in and shrouded us, we made a rapid descent into a gorge. I climbed out and spied the buck, but it was a bit far for a shot and I didn’t have a good rest. Mist soon swirled back in and I rapidly crawled another 100 yards to the edge of the valley. I bundled up my jacket, chambered a round and waited. Minutes later, as

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the clouds began to thin I made out the shape of deer moving below. Gradually, the buck’s antlers appeared out of the gray. I waited until he turned to the side and fired; he fell over and lay still. “Well,” Luke said, as the clouds rolled back in, “I think I’ll roll on and try to find that four-by-four.” We have a long-standing joke about a mythical four-by-four buck. Reid once told Luke he’d retire if Luke ever shot one. Two years prior, I was standing with our older brother when a true monarch popped its head up at dusk just 20 yards away. I’d just taken a fat fork-horn and was about to climb down a steep slope to gut it and splay it open to cool overnight. Well, that moose of a deer looked up and Luke, without a moment’s hesitation, fired. It tumbled down a slope. After I’d taken care of my deer, I turned on my headlamp and climbed over and found Luke reassembling a giant, broken set of antlers. “It was at least a four-by-four,” he

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said, shrugging.

BACK ON ADMIRALTY, I took every ounce of usable meat off the buck and kept the ribs intact for Luke’s three daughters to gnaw on. For years their favorite meal was deer ribs. Now they’re becoming more sophisticated. It was a long, slow hike back to the crest of the ridge. Rain and wind buffeted me as I sat above camp looking out on the ocean. Luke emerged from the swirling clouds, I shouldered my pack, we hiked down to the tent and he told me about his hunt. He’d been skirting along the ridge and slowly approaching the three bucks we’d seen earlier; soon a bowl full of deer came into view. Right off the bat, he noticed three big guys, including a three-by-four, bedded down. He crawled and sneaked from bush to bush until he was almost within range, which for him can be well over 300 yards. Luke looked to his right and saw two bucks watching and acting like they

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might spook. If this were to happen, all the deer in the bowl would likely run off. He had a good rest, so he shot the larger of the bucks. Luke then rose to his full height and was greeted with a dozen sets of eyes and antlers. The mountain was so remote that the deer didn’t spook as he walked over to begin working on the downed buck. We broke camp and began the long slog to the ocean. An hour or so before sunset, we made it to the salmon stream. As we inﬂated the raft and loaded up our gear, the sound of galloping came echoing down the stream. A bear, preoccupied with the salmon it was chasing, was running at us. “Hey!” I yelled, and the horriﬁed bear looked up and peeled out of the creek and into the safety of the forest. Aboard Luke’s skiff, we shared a drink with the bugs – we sipped Rainiers while they drank our blood. A sow and her cub walked along the shore until they disappeared into the gloom. A few deer came out on the tidal

flat – we checked for antlers and teased each other about hiking to the top of the mountain when there were deer to shoot on the beach. It was too late to make it back to Juneau, so we elected to spread our sleeping bags out and wake up early to do a little halibut fishing before heading home. “More deer,” I said, gesturing at the beach as we motored up the bay. Luke shook his head. We dropped our lines baited with chunks of a pink salmon we’d caught that morning off a point. A lot of the time halibut fishing around Juneau can be slow and unproductive, but that day we had hits almost as soon as our leads hit the bottom. Within an hour we had four 25-pounders, the size that makes for some of the best eating.

FOR THE FIRST TIME in several days, the sun burnt through the clouds and we were left with breathtaking vistas on the ride back to Juneau. Humpback whales were everywhere; at one point, a pod of 30 or so killer whales swam past, and

some of the more playful and inquisitive ones came for a closer look when Luke put the boat in neutral. We were eager for news on Reid and Meghan, and we soon found out the baby was indeed born on August 1. The proud parents named her Wren Meadows Dihle, and after a rough start in this world she was doing well. I processed the ﬁsh as fast as I could, cleaned up the ribs for my nieces and, then with MC, headed over to Reid and Meghan’s home. Luke’s girls were sitting outside holding their cousin. Braith, the 7-year-old, showed me how to hold Wren. “Why didn’t you name her Ruger Olaf?” I asked Reid. “Don’t worry, she’ll still become the greatest hunter ever,” my little brother said as he proudly looked at his baby girl. ASJ Editor’s note: Bjorn Dihle lives in Southeast Alaska. His ﬁrst book, Haunted Inside Passage, will be published in May 2017.

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PRESERVING THE MEMORY YOU’VE HARVESTED A BIG GAME ANIMAL AND FILLED YOUR FREEZER WITH MEAT, SO WHY NOT DO A SKULL OR EUROPEAN MOUNT WITH YOUR TROPHY? BY PAUL D. ATKINS

When you don’t have the budget for or the room on your wall for a full shoulder mount, especially for an animal as big as a moose, a European mount may be the answer. Moose skulls with the antlers attached make an incredible display. (PAUL ATKINS) aksportingjournal.com | APRIL 2016

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or many of us, the purpose of any hunt is not to collect another trophy but to enjoy the adventure and hunt as hard as we possibly can in hopes of connecting on an animal. If he does happen to be a monster, you might want to have a taxidermist mount it for your wall. Or maybe you would prefer to go another route and have a skull or European mount done. I have always been fascinated with animal bones – especially skulls – and here in the Arctic there seems to be an endless supply. Alaska’s vast list of wildlife allows us to harvest animals,

Musk ox are one of the most unique trophies on the planet. They make a great centerpiece to any room and a good conversation starter due to their looks and the extreme places you ﬁnd them. But because of their skull’s large size, boiling them is very difficult, so it’s better to use dermestid beetles to clean them when doing a European mount. (PAUL ATKINS) 150

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either through hunting or trapping. Although we utilize them for meat or fur, the skulls provide nice reminders of a day spent in the ﬁeld. If you’re weird like me and the sight of a big bear skull makes you want to head to the tundra, then this piece is for you. If you’re also like me and your wall space is limited due to the fact that there might be too many heads in one corner or another, then maybe a skull display is the answer.

THE MOUNTING WAY

Whether you are planning to use bugs or boiling water, you need to get as much of the ﬂesh and tissue off of the skull as possible. It saves time and helps in the cleaning process. (PAUL ATKINS)

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Skull mounts have become very popular these days. They are unique and cost less than having a traditional mount done and look great in just about any setting. More recently I have had most of my “heads” turned into skull mounts, not only to save room but also to provide the uniqueness that only a hunter can appreciate. The keeping of skulls and antlers – either as trophies or tools – has been around since the beginning of time. In-

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Beetles did a great job on this grizzly skull, and Paul’s proud of the ﬁnished product. (PAUL ATKINS)

dians, tribesmen and settlers did it for thousands of years. However, the term “European mount” came from across the ocean and is very popular throughout that part of the world. Originally it was due to cost and expense of mounting the hair and skin, but nowadays it is the preferred method and has become the most popular way to present a hunter’s trophy. Having your skull cleaned, degreased and whitened to perfection can be done several ways, but probably the most popular and effective way is to use bugs, but not just any bugs – you need beetles.

INSECTS WANTED Dermestidae, or “dermestid” beetles, are specialized insects that eat only animal ﬂesh. Adult beetles are the key, but it’s the larvae produced that actually do the cleaning by eating away the meat attached to the bone. It takes 400 to 500 beetles to get started and there are many top-rated bug sellers that will actually ship right to your front door. Time

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A SOUVENIR FOR A LIFETIME If you are interested in getting your skulls turned into something beautiful and want to use beetles or maybe even try the boiling method, I would get in contact with your preferred taxidermist. They can either do it for you or send you in the right direction. If you are interested in starting your own colony of beetles for personal use or maybe to start your own skull clean-

ing business, then there are many places throughout Alaska that will help you get started. I recommend Kodiak Bugs and Bones Taxidermy on Kodiak Island (bonesandbugs.com). They are extremely knowledgeable when it comes to cleaning skulls and can either ship you your very own beetles or use theirs to produce the skull mount of your dreams. –PA

is the key; if you have an established colony of beetles that are producing larvae, then you can clean skulls at a pretty fast rate. If they’re available, using beetles is preferred over other techniques. Skulls look better due to the natural action of the bugs eating the ﬂesh from the skull. Skulls also last longer than when boiled. With the ease of obtaining beetles the process of skull cleaning can become a lucrative business. I know sev-

eral people who are dedicated to using this process and do it in their spare time. The skulls they produce are incredible and make great displays for any hunter. Having a place to work and store your hive is the key, but once you start, it can be a fun and proﬁtable experience. However, if you prefer, you can take your skulls to your taxidermist and have them done professionally. There are many beneﬁts to going this route. Taxidermists do this for a living and have the

experience to complete the cleaning of your skull by degreasing and whitening it to perfection. They’ll even mount it for the wall or to set on a table. Boiling skulls is another popular method and can be done relatively on the cheap. However, the skull has to be boiled until the meat literally falls off, which can take time and is not as precise as using beetles. And while cooking, the melted fat soaks into the bone, which usually results in skulls that are yellow in color and greasy looking. Skulls also become soft if they’re overboiled, and in my experience they do have a shelf life, plus it’s not the cleanest. Believe me, though I’ve done this and was proud of my product, the mess, the smell and the “off-colored skull” couldn’t compare to those I had professionally done. Using beetles will eliminate this problem. Another advantage to using beetles is to prevent shrinkage and damage to the skull. Several years ago I arrowed a black bear in Alaska that happened

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The popularity of skull mounts has risen in recent years as big game hunters warm to the austere look of bone. (PAUL ATKINS)

(or so we guessed) to meet Pope and Young standards and would probably make the record book. I sent the skull off to have it cleaned. When I got it back it had lost close to an inch and missed the book by just an eighth of an inch. I was bummed to say the least. If hunting for the record book is your thing or not, it is still something to think about and consider. Beetles are also able to reach recesses of the skull without the use of tools, which can leave marks and damage

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delicate structures, such as nasal bones and teeth, which give a skull its uniqueness. Going the bug route also eliminates any odor and prevents fat from being soaked into the bone. If you do decide to buy some beetles for yourself, you will need to be aware of a few facts. Adult beetles are needed to immediately build a population. They must be able to produce eggs, so make sure you are getting plenty of adults when buying. Some beetle sellers will only sell you small larvae, which will

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not increase your colony size until theyy o reach adulthood, which could take up to is two months. If you have time, then this e, is not a problem. As mentioned above, ut 400 to 500 is a good place to start, but if you want to start cleaning big skullss re like bear, moose or muskox – where a lot of ﬂesh needs to be consumed – then the more the merrier. h You will also need a container. Fish re aquariums in the 10-gallon range are ideal. This gives the beetles plenty of room to do their job and can providee o quite the show to houseguests who at might not be quite accustomed to what it takes to produce a European mount.

YOU’LL ALWAYS HAVE A MEMORY Whether you want to honor the grizzlyy you took last fall or the prized musk ox tyou about froze your backside off hunting this spring, look at having a skullll h mount done. They won’t take up much ry room and they’ll always be a memory of your day on the tundra. ASJ

A skull mount is a great way to honor your kill. (PAUL ATKINS)

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FROGLUBE: CLEANING YOUR GUN THE RIGHT WAY

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step to isolate the problem is to thoroughly clean, degrease, strip and otherwise remove anything from the ﬁrearm, which will isolate the lube as the cause. We recommend using FrogLube degreasing solvents such as FrogLube Solvent or FrogLube Super Degreaser for this task. If the gun is exceptionally dirty, the Super Degreaser diluted to 5:1 strength is the best cleaner to start with. FrogLube degreasing solvents are compatible with any lube and will clean all existing gun lube products on the market. This has been and continues to be tested continuously by the FrogLube tech support staff. FrogLube is a complete bio-based ﬁrearms care system that packages degreasing solvents along with CLP lubricants to comply with weapons-cleaning procedures developed by U.S. military and other professional sources.

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AS TIME GOES BY BY CHRISTINE CUNNINGHAM

e had been on the boat for 11 hours when the captain suggested we stay out longer and fish for king salmon. We had already caught a limit of halibut. That was the plan for the day. I had agreed to fish for halibut. No one had once mentioned fishing for king salmon or spending more than 11 hours on the boat. I briefly felt that I’d been kidnapped. While the three others assembled the downriggers necessary to fish for kings, I mentally began to fashion means of escape by assembling an array of useful objects. Dare I ask, I wondered, how long we were going to be out? The invite to go fishing had only had a start time and I’d failed to ascertain when the party would end. These uncoordinated expectations could cause three people to be having the time of their lives, while the person who didn’t pack three square snacks (me) to be like Daffy Duck sizing up the others for a meal.

THE MORE TIME I spend outdoors on uncoordinated ﬁshing expeditions, the more I realize that the clock on the wall at the office is no longer valid. Time in numbers is meaningless in the outdoors. Even the terms used to describe time cannot be taken literally. Based on my experience working in offices, time is very literal to me. It’s not just the hours and minutes. There is lunch time and break time and other designated times. All of that was clearly out the window, since the boat didn’t have a window. We were on ﬁshing time, and that is a very scary form of timekeeping. Because I care about fellow human beings who may count time as I do, it is necessary to share some of the things I’ve learned about declara166

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tions of time in the outdoors. Early: If you ask what time we will be leaving the next morning, and the answer is “early,” beware! Early is not a noun in this case, but an adverb, and it is closer to the word “soon” than “morning.” Some people think 8 a.m. is early; it is not. Early can be anytime after midnight. Late: Given the difficulty of ascertaining what time is meant by “early,” you’ll probably be late to being early. This happens to me all the time. Even after someone has told me, “Show up at the boat launch around 4 a.m.,” and I show up at 3:45 a.m., I have been met with the accusation of being late. “Where have you been? Three boats have already left.” Five more minutes: This is a magical expression evoking the question, “If you had five more minutes to live, what would you do?” And although the answer is “something amazing,” the onthe-water reality translates to approximately two hours of doing the exact same thing you were doing before you only had five more minutes. 15 more minutes: This has more to do with Andy Warhol’s famous expression that everyone could be famous for 15 minutes or achieve amazing results in a short amount of time. These are minutes that must count for something and translate to approximately one minute of doing something ridiculous that takes an additional five hours to correct. A few more minutes: This expression is not about time. It means that there is no way of telling how much additional time is needed; otherwise, the five- or 15minute window would’ve been selected. Not by a long shot: Whether the term originated in score keeping or aiming for a target so far away there is an outside chance of hitting it, it translates to continuing until dark, running out of

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supplies or being physically restrained.

THERE ARE LOTS of other expressions that are open to interpretation, and I now focus on the gear required for the trip. If those going with me unload a freezer chest full of food, extra fuel cans and a duffel bag of overnight gear, I don’t ask about when we’re coming back. But if I ﬁnd myself on a tortured excursion in which no one has enough food and I sense that we are about to begin the Who Can Stand It The Longest Contest, I try to focus on the beauty of the outdoors. If I focus on the beauty of the outdoors, I think, it won’t matter that my feet are numb from cold and my last meal was a vanilla latte at 5:14 a.m. As the 11th hour of this particular trip wound on, instead of asking, “When will we be done?” I said, “Isn’t it beautiful out?!” And then I hoped against hope that I didn’t have the smallest bladder, thinnest skin and weakest stomach. I hoped someone else on the boat knew that “Isn’t it beautiful out?” could also be an expression of time. It meant, “Isn’t it a beautiful time to be heading back in?” I looked around in panic. No one knew my code. “We’re in a fog,” one of the ﬁshermen said. “Should we head back?” I asked, a logical question suggesting I wasn’t desperate to be done. Everyone was looking at me now. “In a little bit,” the captain said. ASJ

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