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ALASKA

SPORTING JOURNAL ALASKA

Volume 5 • Issue 4

www.aksportingjournal.com

SPORTING JOURNAL

PUBLISHER James R. Baker

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Dick Openshaw

ALASKA

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Andy Walgamott

SPORTING JOURNAL

EDITOR Chris Cocoles

ASSOCIATE EDITOR Tom Reale

ALASKA

WRITERS Paul D. Atkins, Krystin Bablinskas, Christine Cunningham, Eric Henne, Larry Golden, Scott Haugen, Tiffany Haugen, Luke Kelly, Jeff Lund, Andy Mezirow, Bixler McClure, Steve Meyer, Dennis Musgraves, Tom Reale

SPORTING JOURNAL

SALES MANAGER Brian Lull

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Michelle Carpinelli, Becca Ellingsworth, Mamie Griffin, Mike Nelson, Mike Smith, Vanesa Sax, Paul Yarnold DESIGNERS Dawn Carlson, Beth Harrison, Sonjia Kells PRODUCTION MANAGER John Rusnak PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Kelly Baker CIRCULATION MANAGER Heidi Belew

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ON THE COVER Hillarie Putnam grew up in Alaska with plenty of hobbies, including developing into a standout track-and-field performer and a state-champion basketball player, plus finding a passion for acting. She’s also an avid hunter and angler and was one of the stars of the fantastic History Channel show, The Hunt. (HILLARIE PUTNAM) Inset Photo: Kodiak Island coho. (MEMORY MAKERS GUIDE SERVICE)

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CONTENTS

VOLUME 5 • ISSUE 4

FEATURES 16

HILLARIE OF THE HUNT She wants to get married someday high atop a mountain in the Himalayas, has filmed a powerful movie scene with Nicolas Cage and could have competed in track and field at major colleges in the Lower 48. But Hillarie Putnam’s biggest passion may be big-game hunting. Meet one of the stars of the History Channel’s The Hunt.

SILVERS AND SHARPTAILS Our correspondent Dennis Musgraves gets the most out of his fishing trips around Alaska. This month, he adds upland bird hunting to the menu, heading up the Delta Clearwater River near Fairbanks to look for sharp-tailed grouse in the morning and battle coho in the afternoons.

ALSO IN THIS ISSUE 25 29 39 49 64 77

An angler’s trusted truck Alaskan SWAT operator recounts manhunt for murderer The Dishonor Roll Coho fishing tips for creeks Mixing hunting and fishing on Prince of Wales Island Seward summer halibut derby recap

93 111 125 137 149 153 158

Shotgun patterning tips Chasing Kodiak Island’s mountain goats An inside look at Alaska’s hunter education program Getting into fur trapping: The lowdown on the dying art No Sympathy column: Keeping the land clean Tips from a taxidermist Loose Ends: Lost in the fog

84 HEY, ROOK! Erik Henne first learned how to shoot, then joined up with an experienced friend for a Charley River caribou hunt. It was a little overwhelming and frustrating early on for the Seattle man, but for those of you who have always wanted to hunt in Alaska and aren’t a seasoned hunter, this rookie has an inspiring story to tell. 101 ALL ABOUT MOOSE Fall is go-time for hunting the largest member of North America’s deer family, and nobody loves chasing moose more than our Arctic big-game hunting guru, Paul D. Atkins. Get the skinny on everything you need to know for your next bull hunting adventure.

41 KODIAK’S SILVER STREAK

There are 15 navigable river drainages on Kodiak Island, and this month, most are full of giant coho. Our Luke Kelly gets the tips about how and where to catch these gorgeous salmon. (MEMORYMAKERS TOUR AND GUIDE SERVICE)

Alaska Sporting Journal is published monthly. Call Media Index Publishing Group for a current rate card. Discounts for frequency advertising. All submitted materials become the property of Media Index Publishing Group and will not be returned. Annual subscriptions are $29.95 (12 issues) or $39.95 (24 issues). Send check or money order to Media Index Publishing Group, or call (206) 382-9220 with VISA or M/C. Back issues are available at Media Index Publishing Group offices at the cost of $5 plus tax. Copyright © 2014 Media Index Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be copied by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying or recording by any information storage or retrieval system, without the express written permission of the publisher. Printed in U.S.A.

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EDITOR’S NOTE

Hillarie Putman and her dad, David, stars of History Channel’s The Hunt, on a Kodiak Island bear hunt. (THE HISTORY CHANNEL)

egular readers to this magazine will notice we’ve made a habit of profiling television shows. We’ve chatted with caribou veterinarians, subsistence hunters, preppers making plans for the end of the world and crab boat skippers, among others. This month, we talked with Hillarie Putnam of the History Channel’s show, The Hunt. (Putnam says call it a docu-series and not a reality show). And in watching some of season one, The Hunt’s producers seem to get it right, and that carries weight (bonus points for getting Metallica frontman James Hetfield to narrate). I haven’t run a story on an Alaskan show that I would consider on a list of bad ideas. Let’s – pardon the pun – keep it real: networks have no shame when it comes to guilty-pleasure crap that somehow gets a season’s worth of episodes (I’m talking to you: Bravo, Oxygen, TLC and something called the Style Network). The Hunt follows a small colony of adventure seekers who hunt Alaska’s iconic and feared brown bears in various locales. Putnam and her dad, David, hunted together through parts of a few episodes. At one point, David heads home, leaving his daughter to continue hunting solo. David tries to keep it together as he talks about leaving Hillarie to by herself (albeit with a cameraman). But the moment was not overdone and didn’t seem to be one of those over-the-top “showmance” moments The Bachelorette and its knockoffs spoon-feed viewers with. “We’re both kind of adrenaline junkies,” Hillarie said into the camera of her’s and David’s experience on the show. “I think what I’m proudest about in this hunt: it wasn’t something for just me. I was able to come out with my dad and remember what it was like to be a kid again.” Hillarie, an aspiring actress whose credits include Alaska-themed movies Big Miracle and The Frozen Ground (where she has a memorable and emotional scene with Academy Award winner Nicolas Cage), is a proud hunter and a prouder Alaskan. –Chris Cocoles

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RESULTS

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Hillarie Putnam, one of the stars of The Hunt on the History Channel and here with an Alaskan bull moose, grew up in Wasilla and was hunting with her dad, David, by the time she was just 8. (HILLARIE PUTNAM)

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CLIMBING TO THE HIGH SUMMIT ALASKAN HUNTER/ACTRESS IS ON THE RISE

PART I OF II

BY CHRIS COCOLES

ometimes, you’re just preordained to have an adventurous disposition. You’re named for one of the men on the first team to reach the summit of mighty Mount Everest, the world’s tallest peak; your dad was so in love with the outdoors he moved his family from the Midwest to the Last Frontier when you were a year old; you have no qualms hunting giant brown bears by yourself on one of the most dangerous, killer-bruin-infested stretches of land on Kodiak Island.

You are hunter/actress/adrenaline-seeking and proud Alaskan Hillarie Putnam, and it seems like you can take on anything, from the high jump to high mountains to the highest levels of Hollywood’s A-list. Putnam, 25, recently was one of the participants – along with her dad, David – on the

successful History Channel debut series, The Hunt, which follows bear hunters throughout Alaska. She’s also an up-and-coming actor (we’ll have more about her powerful turn with Nicolas Cage and more in part two of this interview). So needless to say, Putnam is keeping busy; she’s in negotiations to host her own hunting show from a woman’s perspective. She and longtime boyfriend, Dylan, have talked about getting married someday, and whenever she does tie the knot, this full-throttle outdoors junkie wants to channel her inner namesake, Sir Edmund Hillary, and exchange vows high atop a peak in the Himalayas. Putnam, who splits her time between Alaska and Seattle, sat down with us recently to talk about a wide variety of subjects.

Chris Cocoles So tell me about how your

passion for the outdoors began. Hillarie Putnam We moved from Michigan to Alaska, because Dad always wanted to climb the mountains of Alaska; he’s a big mountaineer. I have two deaf siblings, so I don’t know what the heck my parents were doing moving us to Alaska, but we drove everything up there to Wasilla; my mom’s a special education teacher specializing in child development for (the hearing impaired). And my brother and sister kind of moved to all-deaf schools. So I was pretty much raised as an only child. And I grew up hunting and fishing. I think I shot my first gun at 4 and started going out hunting with my dad at 8. I also had my first swill of whiskey at 8 [laughs]. My dad wanted me to be the youngest girl in Alaska to get all five large game – it didn’t work out. He wanted me to be the youngest girl to climb Denali – that didn’t work out. I was balancing outdoors with the sports I played and the acting I did. SEPTEMBER 2014

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a good thing or a bad thing. People don’t go out and witness stuff for themselves anymore. They just click a button, and you don’t always get the appropriate information; or don’t have the experience of being out there of taking an animal’s life. There’s a whole lot that goes into that. Nobody understands the gravity of that except for the person who pulls the trigger and Putnam (left, with her boyfriend, Dylan) got her camerathe creature that passman excited when she finally put down her Kodiak brown bear on the show. “He said, ‘This is insane. It’s like Indiana es away. It’s interesting Jones.’” (HILLARIE PUTNAM) seeing so much input on that split second. But he taught me to have high goals; even if you don’t achieve them, it’s good to put that carrot out in front of you. CC Did you get a lot of negative backlash after The Hunt premiered? CC I would imagine as a little kid in Alaska, HP The show got great feedback, partly you are bound to get naturally attracted because of how they shot everything. to the outdoors. So he didn’t have to drag I did have one woman who commentyou out? ed because we didn’t do anything with the bear meat. Honestly, if anyone can HP Not at all; I’m so similar to my dad as hunt bear above the Arctic Circle, the I’m now older, it’s getting scary [laughs]. bear up there tastes like pork. They are My brother – not interested in it at all. better than any moose, goat or sheep He has kids of his own now and is into – anything I’ve ever had. But the bears insects and bugs and bringing them into on Kodiak Island are so large because the outdoors. But he’s not much of a they feed on a lot of decaying salmon. hunter, and if you asked him for his perSo you can’t really do much with them; spective, he would just assume people it’s more of a game management and not hunt. My brother supports me to the trophy hunt. But it was interesting how end of time, but we were talking about many people said, “You’re an Alaskan me doing some projects with traveling who appreciates the Alaskan way of life, and hunting, and he told me, “Just to let but you don’t eat the bear meat.” Any you know, if you go to Africa, I’m not goAlaskan Native will tell you’re an idiot ing to be in favor of it.” if you’re going to eat that (Kodiak) bear meat. There are certain things you eat, CC While we’re on that subject, so many certain things you don’t eat in the state women who hunt have been ripped for it of Alaska. It’s wild, and you’re not going on social media. Has that happened to to somebody’s farm or ranch. There are you like the Texas Tech cheerleader, Kenno fences everywhere, and you’re very dall Jones? much stepping into that circle of life HP TMZ did a thing about her, and just that happens. because I’m in the entertainment industry, next thing you know my (Twitter CC On the show, you and your dad were feed) was getting this and that from peohunting and he said goodbye to you and ple about hunting. It’s interesting how had you continue your hunt alone – of much technology we have at our fincourse, with a cameraman filming you – gertips these days. I don’t know if that’s but I could sense that was a genuine re18 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

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lease of emotions by your dad.

HP He was moved, and it’s happened before. We do a month-long float trip – I can’t say where exactly – above the Arctic Circle and you can hunt all of Alaska’s big-game animals. He had some of his buddies from Michigan with him. So we were on the river and I said I wanted to hang back on my raft, and the guys can push forward. I had my tags, but I mostly just went as an outfitter and to help out. And the guys were like, “You know where we’re at, right?” And sure enough, I ended up meeting back up with them, with a 58-inch bull (moose) with extremely heavy brow tines. It’s probably one of the nicest racks I’ve ever seen. So that was one step of him seeing, “She doesn’t really need me anymore.” And I think he thinks, “I don’t have to tell her how to set the tent, tell her how to do this. All these things she can do without me having to tell her.” So I think hunting on Kodiak was something he always wanted to take me to do because very few people get to go do it. As soon as he found out my bear went down (on the show), he called my sat phone and asked how many shots did it take? He said, “I think if I would have been there, I might have been able to get you in a better position.” So there’s always critique and feedback. The footage they got in the show, it was amazing how close it hit home. They didn’t talk about it on the show, but I had a dear friend [Lorri Egge] who passed away two days before we filmed that. She was my female role model growing up. So I think that played into (the emotion) too when he left. My dad is this super tough shell and everyone kind of thinks he’s a bit of an (ass****) and he’s this mountain man who does it his way. But he’s the most kind and caring person, and I was glad you were able to see that side of him. CC So how did you handle all that? You

seemed to have your game face on. HP It was emotional. I had one day, and when you watch the show it kind of skips ahead a day, where I didn’t leave the tent very much.

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CC What was your overall experience on

the show? HP It was reality, though I shouldn’t say “reality” as it was more documentary-series television. But being a focal point was very strange. I’ve done tons of theater, films, television shows and commercials. And with film and television it’s an escape; you get to be somebody else for a few days. With this it was not so much shooting it, but afterwards, it was a little scary that it was just me. How was I going to be perceived by the public?

CC Did you get a chance to see the show

before it aired? HP Nope. I’m working on coming up with my own stuff. Then you have a bit more of an idea of how you want it. There was no feedback and you don’t know how they’re going paint you. A lot of things happen out in the field, so it’s really trusting to build a strong relationship with your shooter/producer. Because they are the ones reporting the story back to the network. Chad, my shooter/producer, was phenomenal. He and I bonded really well, and I think he took the time to get to know us as people and not just as gun-totin’ Alaskans. I think History did a great job.

CC Tell me about the moment you got your bear on the show. HP As soon as the bear goes down and takes off into the woods, I said “Alright, we gotta go.” We went down the hill – and we’re talking steep. We were all over the place running down the hill and I could hear Chad laughing. I’m like, “What are you doing?” He said, “This is insane! It’s like Indiana Jones. I’ve never been on a show that’s this real.” He was elated to be doing this, but he realized we were going into an extremely dangerous situation; the brush on Kodiak is insanely thick. He’s worked on tons and tons of shows, and he just couldn’t believe how raw and real hunting in Alaska is. People ask what’s real and what’s not real on that show, and I just tell them to spend a night on Kodiak. CC How do you feel women are perceived as hunters compared to men? 20 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

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HP I’m not the only woman who hunts.

And there’s always going to be criticism, because we’re kind of stepping out as the first women who are doing this. And I think everyone believes all women should have this immense amount of compassion and not want to kill things. But you go out into the field with women and men and ask the men, “Who does better in the field?” It’s usually women. It’s a really strange element. We’re very patient in the field. The Hunt got really great feedback. They showed the camaraderie of the people.

CC Would you like to be back on The Hunt

for season two? HP We’re waiting to see if they renew it [by the time this issue comes out, that may be decided]. If it does and I come back, that would be awesome. I’m in a holding pattern, so if The Hunt does well, the direction they want to take is that I’ve had a rare opportunity to work as an outfitter for one of the guides on Kodiak. I’m hoping the show gets picked back up so people can see what that process is.

CC So what kind of hunting show do you

ROCKER MAKES HIS STAND FOR HUNTING The Hunt’s most familiar voice to music fans is Metallica lead singer James Hetfield, who narrated season one of the show about trophy bear hunting in Alaska despite an immense backlash from the anti-hunting chorus. The website twitchy.com posted some of the Twitter comments directed at Hetfield. Some of the less profanity-laced tweets about the 51-year-old Californian included comments that implied Hetfield shot the bears himself on the show when in actuality he just described the action. A photo circulated around the Internet showing a man standing over a large harvested bear that was believed to be – but really wasn’t – Hetfield. That didn’t stop the 140-character hate from bubbling over. “Wish the bear would have mauled him before he was able to shoot. World classlosr (sic),” tweeted @KingNguyen2. “A pathetic waste of oxygen; what can you possibly gain from this? Go & die a slow painful death,” added @karlanixson. And this from @cherryicious: “I’d pay money to have watched you fight that bear without your pathetic gun. Tearing you limb from limb.” Hetfield is an NRA member who is believed to have a passion for hunting. When word spread he was narrating the History Channel’s series on Alaska bear hunts, animal rights activists went bananas, calling out the Glastonbury music festival in notoriously anti-gun England to ban Hetfield and Metallica from being one of the show’s headliners.

“Glastonbury is like the Holy Grail in England, and we’re respect- Metallica lead singer ful to that. But if James Hetfield came somebody sits under fire when he agreed to narrate the there and talks History Channel series, about petitions The Hunt. (GAGE SKIDor what some MORE/WIKIPEDIA.COM) other guy says, there’s a point that it just becomes ridiculous,” Metallica drummer Lars Ulrich told the British magazine Metal Hammer. Metallica went on and played at the festival in August to loud cheers from the crowd. Hetfield has remained mostly silent during the time that The Hunt premiered and leading into the band’s Glastonbury gig (Alaska Sporting Journal was not responded to after requesting an interview with Hetfield). But he hasn’t been shy in the past to share his opinion on firearms. “I love my guns. I love that my dad handed them down to me, and I’m taking care of them. To me, though, some of the gun laws definitely don’t make any sense, but also the Second Amendment is very important to me. Somewhere in the middle lies the truth,” he told the usualmontauk.com in a 2013 interview. “Both sides are operating on a fear base. As an NRA member, I don’t think we need to be afraid that if we compromise on some things, (they) are going to change so much. I don’t want to make it easier for someone to have an assault weapon, but I also want to be able to protect my family.”- ASJ

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“It was reality, though I shouldn’t say 'reality'as it was more documentay-series television. But being a focal point was very strange,” Putnam says of her appearance on The Hunt. (THE HISTORY

Putnam’s part of the overall storyline]: Here’s a girl and a coming-of-age story. But once I got out there in the field it was more of, “Wow, she actually knows as much as the guys who were out there.”

CHANNEL)

CC So about this wedding someday on

hope to develop yourself? HP There isn’t a series out there with a strong female lead, as far as docu-series television that puts a woman in a man’s element and shows how she can succeed. And I think that’s a rea-

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son why The Hunt did so well. And the network wasn’t quite expecting that. Because we still have to put things in these boxes. What stories sell? Fishout-of-water stories sell. I think that originally what they were thinking [with

the top of a mountain ... HP My parents have been together since they were 11 and got married at 18. And they are now, 59, 60? So they’ve been together for a long time. My boyfriend and I have been together for seven years. So what we’ve said is if we do decide to get married, it’s going to be by a Sherpa and somewhere in the Himalayas because I want it to be somewhere Sir Edmund Hillary’s climbed. And anyone can come, but you’ll have to climb the mountain to get there. ASJ Editor’s note: Look for part two of our interview with Hillarie Putnam in the October issue of Alaska Sporting Journal.

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A black bear (top) even admires the author’s trusty pickup that takes him on his fishing adventures throughout Alaska. (JEFF LUND)

FISHIN’ TRUCK IS JUST HIS SPEED GETTING AROUND ALASKA’S GRAVEL TRAILS

BY JEFF LUND

ehicles are important because of what they do. They take on a more substantial meaning because of what we do when we get where they take us. It’s when a beat-up truck, station wagon or even a rental car take on endearing qualities because they cease to become just a mode of transportation. They take us to what relieves us from the burden of work and life. They take us to water, and in that water there are fish. A trip with a particular rig is almost as much a love story as it is a fishing trip. My truck is a 2005 mid-sized V-6 which seats two perfectly and a third if he doesn’t mind sitting perpendicular to

the road, because even if the passenger seat is forward there isn’t much legroom. It is an ideal single man’s fishing rig. It doesn’t have the dents, scratches, and stench (character) of other fishmobiles, but it is certainly better than the rental I had one week in Fairbanks when I was chasing grayling. It’s taken me all around California, and three times driven me to Alaska which, if you’ve got time, is the way to fish the 49th state. Best of all, I have control.

Familiarity

The satellite radio comes in for the most part, but can only function as background noise. You only notice it turned off, when it turns back on.

The bacon cheeseburger at Coffman Cove provides great fuel for Prince of Wales Island adventures. (JEFF LUND)

The smell of fisherman comes in clear, though. It doesn’t smell like fish, but a fisherman. It’s part campfire, part mud, part dirt, part sweat and maybe a hint of dried fish slime, which is different than the rank odor of fish or funk. SEPTEMBER 2014

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Coffman Cove isn’t really on the road to any fishing spots of note, but sometimes a good meal and a reliable truck are worth the detour.

Dealer’s choice

I was in a trout-y mood, which I am in frequently even during salmon season, because when the salmon are in, they are in and it can be quite easy. So at times it’s nice to hit smaller water and see the explosion of a feisty trout taking a caddis or gnat. It might sound crazy that I’d be OK with trout when I could catch all the pink, chum or coho salmon I could want, but it’s my trip in my truck. Plus, that doesn’t mean I only want to catch trout. Hit things right in the early season and

(JEFF LUND)

I spend most of my time on the rivers, so I’m not one of those Alaskans with crab pots and outboard gas for my skiff in the truck bed. My truck smells much like it did when I lived in California and drove around looking for rainbows and browns. Inside is whatever I need for an impromptu fishing trip so when I didn’t wake up early because I didn’t have a specific plan, which is nice, all I needed was a thermos of coffee and a sandwich and I was good to go. I was on the road just before noon and wound up in Coffman Cove waiting for a bacon cheeseburger by 12:30. The thing about not being strapped for time or on a guide’s schedule is you get to do things on a whim. There are exactly two burger places on the island, one of which is in Coffman, which used to be nothing more than a logging camp but has blossomed into a really neat community on the eastern side of Prince of Wales Island. Since the road is paved all the way there, it’s almost worth going there just for the burgers. It’s not on your way to great fishing spots, but again, if you’ve got time, why not, right? My truck smelled like curly fries by the time I arrived where I’d fish, but the burger wasn’t soggy. I walked around the bridge dripping burger grease and tomato juice on my waders and on the wooden bridge itself. I didn’t mean to, but good burgers just do that. The water was even thinner than usual, but clear and 26 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

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The author knows he can always use a fly to land a coho salmon, but freedom of choice to drive onto a smaller trout stream is comforting. (JEFF LUND)

spread into beautiful rolling riffles. I looked down at the water and remembered the big steelhead, trout and salmon from the previous summer. At some point between now and September, I’d be taking in this same view and looking at different fish. The river doesn’t change, but the reason I come here does. That’s the thing. Like your fishing vehicle, the river has an attitude, gets into you, and connects you with those beautiful moments people write about in books or quietly remember on their own. There are other people who fish here, but you don’t care about them, and don’t worry about them. The river is big enough and grand enough to give something special to everyone, even if it is called a creek or stream because its size doesn’t qualify for river status.

you can present dries on a tapered leader from a 5-weight, then an hour down a dirt road, be swinging Comets and Coho Crack with an 8-weight. Since that is the case, there’s always the decision about whether or not to move. But the point is it’s your choice. In this case, my choice and I stayed put. I get into cutthroat immediately. There’s a guy upriver going for the big boys, but I’m content with my No. 18 Elk-Hair Caddis. It’s getting close to closing time at the liquor store in Coffman Cove so I leave, but I don’t want booze but rather fresh oysters. I’ll put them in the Styrofoam container which rests where the third person would sit if I had one with me. I’ve also got two more rivers to check and tons of daylight still; it’s Alaska at my speed and on my schedule. Just the way I like it. ASJ

SEPTEMBER 2014

8/18/14 2:12 PM

Hedley’s Sprucewood Lodge

• Trout & Salmon Fishing • Saltwater Fishing • Razor Clam Digging • Scenic Rafting • Glacier Viewing • Bear Viewing • Fly-out Tour from Kenai to Katmai National Park • Hearty & Delicious Meals served for breakfast, lunch, and dinner For More information www.kenairiverak.com or 907-260-5420 SEPTEMBER 2014

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SEPTEMBER 2014

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Y T P EM OVES R P T C E P R SUS

MURDE

BY STEVE MEYER

flew back to Alaska on Saturday, July 19, 2003, from a brief visit with my kids in Arizona, and I was looking forward to a day to sort things out at home before heading back to work. At 2100 hours that evening, William D. Conger shot John Tulin in the chest with a Marlin .45/70 at conversational distance in the front yard of his residence just outside of Seward. So much for sorting things out the next day. The Special Emergency Response Team pager went off around 2230 hours, when local authorities

H C R SEA

.R.T. E . S R O F E USIV

TEAM

Alaska State Troopers Special Emergency Response Team officers had a frustrating time on the search for alleged murderer William D. Conger. (ALASKA STATE TROOPERS ARCTIC WARRIORS)

determined that Conger had fled the area on foot, and it was anyone’s guess where he may have gone. Our team arrived at the scene around 0100 hours, and learned the unusual circumstances of the murder. Most murder cases start with trying to identify the suspect(s) and can involve months and sometimes even years before investigators know who they are looking for. This case there was no question. Conger had been working for Tulin, and somehow came to the conclusion that he was being swindled and mistreated by his employer. With that he had gone to the employer’s residence, where he had been staying and knew the family well. He arrived prior to Tulin’s return home and

had spoken with the now widow. When Tulin was coming in the driveway he told her she should go call 911 because he was going to shoot him. She did and shortly thereafter heard the shot. There was no question about the who; now it was our job to find him before he rationalized killing someone else.

FINDING FOLKS WHO don’t want to be found is rarely an easy task. In this case the individual was known to be a fairly accomplished outdoorsman who could likely take to the country and survive, at least for a while, on his own. The shooting took place in a heavily wooded subdivision bordered by the Seward Highway to the west and steep wooded cliffs to the east. There were numerous residences throughout the area and some were vacant, a fact that would SEPTEMBER 2014

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Several potential leads in abandoned dwellings turned out to be wild goose chases for the S.E.R.T. officers. The suspect was known to be an outdoorsman capable of living off the land for an extended period of time. (ALASKA STATE TROOPERS ARCTIC WARRIORS)

play out in several instances throughout the hunt for Conger. Shoeprints leading away from the residence provided the minimal information for at least a starting point. Working that lead in the predawn twilight was incredibly exciting. A man armed with a repeating .45/70

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(which in case you have any doubt, makes a very convincing wound in a human body and up close would certainly defeat our body armor) who had already proven willing and able to kill, could be anywhere. Moving about on the track of such an individual brings a heightened sense

of awareness; this fellow could ambush and take out at least one of the team before any response could be afforded. These are the times when the sparrow twitching in the brush along the course of travel might wonder why several submachine guns gave him a literal birdâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eye view of their ominous muzzles. Most of our missions in Southcentral Alaska were conducted in a rural environment. It has always been with gratitude and a certain sense of awe how accommodating rural Alaska folks are in times of emergency. Pounding on someoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s door at 0330 hours, one would expect a less than pleasant greeting, but that was rarely the case. Caution was displayed by the residents, as one would expect, but inevitably these folks were cooperative and helpful. No one wants a gang of heavily armed men, boots muddy from the ever-present rain in Seward, searching their home. Most people are put on edge even by unannounced visitors that they know. But once the situation was

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explained, the folks we contact were invariably helpful and accommodating to the cause. The help afforded by local people is really the backbone of these sorts of missions. People know other people, who know other people, and so if you contact enough of them, pretty soon valuable information comes out. Just that kind of information led us to a small cabin set on a steep hill half a mile or so east of the crime scene.

SOMEONE REPORTED ACTIVITY at a cab-

in that had not seen activity for quite some time. We worked into positions around the small one-room structure with few windows, and observed for a fair amount of time. We eventually determined an entry into the cabin was the only way to find out if our man was inside. Some may ask this: Why not use some sort of chemical agent such as CS or pepper spray to force anyone inside, out? In all of my years as a S.E.R.T.

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operator for the Alaska State Troopers we never took the destruction of private property lightly. Practically to a fault we would go the extra mile and, in some cases, a more dangerous mile, to minimize damage even when the property sometimes seemed not to amount to much. It was still private property, and always to some degree, sacred is how we viewed it. Quietly getting into position we formed a three-man stack, squeezed up and burst through the door, clearing the small cabin in perhaps two seconds. Midway into the room and directly in line with the door was a counter extending from the north wall of the cabin, halfway across the room. On top of the counter were numerous objects that had been obviously stacked into a makeshift barricade. A .44 Magnum handgun sat on top of the barricade lying muzzle to the door. There was no killer, but certainly evidence that he had been there. At least for a period, he considered making

a stand. During the subsequent search of the surrounding area looking for a direction of travel, one of the team found a lever-action rifle (not the murder weapon) stashed in a steep ravine some 100 yards northeast of the cabin. The trail led back to one of the subdivision gravel roads where once again we were “shooting in the dark.” Investigators working the case found another likely residence a half mile from the cabin that had been vacant for some time. The owners were contacted and allowed a warrantless search of the property. By that time in the late afternoon, additional S.E.R.T. operators had arrived, including a canine unit. The canine handler, who many years later became a state police commissioner, and I entered and cleared the residence with his canine partner with no contact made. Some may wonder, why aren’t canines simply sent in to sniff out a hiding suspect? One would only do that if they had no regard for the value of the

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animal. A dog may very well find someone and if that person is unarmed, may hold them at bay but no one is going to bet on that with one of these highly trained, very valuable and much beloved animals. Further contact with area residents into the evening produced no results and our team was relieved by the Palmer Alaska State Troopers S.E.R.T. team while we got a few hours of sleep. Early morning brought a new lead that we were tasked with investigating. The new information indicated our suspect may have gone to a lake located east of Mile 11 of the Seward Highway. Headed into the heavily wooded area on an ill-defined trail that led to the lake we made painstakingly slow progress. The trail took a straight-on approach to the steep terrain leading to the lake, an undesirable circumstance in terms of ambush and defense capabilities. Nevertheless, two hours later found us at the lakeside with some evidence of individuals having camped there, although nothing that looked recent. Except for the small opening at the trail termination, the lake was choked with alder growth – the kind Alaska brown bear hunters loath when it must be penetrated. Alders don’t grow straight in mountainous areas with heavy snowfall. Snow weighs the branches down and they grow mostly horizontal. Clambering through these thickets with full S.E.R.T. gear on was indeed a daunting task. To be absolutely sure our suspect was not somewhere on the small lake we split into two teams to search the entire circumference of the perhaps 5-acre lake. Agreeing to meet on the other side approximately halfway around, my three-man squad headed around the south end of the lake. The other four went north. The going was brutal and very slow. Think of it in terms of following up a wounded brown bear in cover you can’t see further than 15 feet ahead of you. As we progressed through the alder jungle, it became increasingly evident that not only had our suspect not been there, neither had anyone else – ever.

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In the end, after traversing thick alders with no results and using a canine unit on the search for the suspect, the chase ended in less dramatic fashion, when Conger was spotted alongside railroad tracks; he was arrested, convicted and sentenced to 45 years. (ALASKA STATE TROOPERS ARCTIC WARRIORS)

Nearing the meeting point on the other side of the lake I radioed the other squad and asked for their position. After a pause the radios squawked with, “Ah, we stopped on the north shore; the going is just too tough.” You can imagine the mileage my team got out of that when we busted our way through and met up with the slackers. We immediately had another lead to follow once back on the highway. An individual believed to be the suspect had been seen walking along the railroad tracks near Crown Point, some 20 miles out of Seward. This was believed to be a hot lead, and all of the operators began working the area along with the aerial support of an Alaska State Troopers helicopter. More contacts with residents of the area led to another vacant residence that seemed very promising. We converged on it and began looking into windows and doors, revealing no evidence of occupancy. The canine was brought forward and did a sniff of the entire perimeter with no hits. It was another long lost day, but now the information being developed still strongly suggested Conger was in the area of Crown Point. As was so often the case, the conclusion of the hunt was anticlimactic. The next day Conger was spotted walking the railroad tracks in the area; numerous operators converged on him and

took him into custody without incident.

YEARS LATER I was doing a presentence report on Conger and spoke with him at length about those days we pursued him. He said that we had been close to him most of the time. He described some of what he observed the teams doing and left little doubt that he had in fact been watching us. He also reported being in the house in Crown Point when we were outside looking in. He had gotten into the house and sat in a reclining chair with his rifle lying in the chair next to him. The angles were such he could not be seen through the windows. He stated he kept still and hoped that we didn’t come in. When asked about the barricade in the cabin he stated he had prepared to make a stand and then thought more about it and realized he had no chance of living if he attempted that and went back on the run. He said he finally was just tired and knew it was only a matter of time before he was arrested and elected to walk the tracks until he was taken into custody. Conger was sentenced to serve 45 years in prison. ASJ Editor’s note: The author is a retired S.E.R.T. team leader and a regular contributor to Alaska Sporting Journal. Stories of his experiences in law enforcement appear periodically in the magazine.

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SEPTEMBER 2014

8/18/14 2:18 PM

GOAT OWNER SAYS BAH, HUMBUG BY CHRIS COCOLES

Goats are taboo in the city of Chicago, where in 1945 Billy Sianis, owner of the Windy City’s Billy Goat Tavern, was kicked out of baseball’s Chicago Cubs’ World Series game when the goat accompanying him smelled and the odor affected fans around them. “Them Cubs, they ain’t gonna win no more,” Sianis reportedly yelled out. Despite that double negative grammatical error, the Cubs haven’t been to a World Series since; hence “The Curse of the Billy Goat” was born. So let’s hope the person who decided to walk his pet goat through Denali National Park doesn’t curse anyone in Alaska. The man was cited for walking

his goat in an area where no pets Denali National Park’s Dall sheep could be suswere allowed. But officials there ceptible to parasites from domestic pet goats that are walked throughout the park. (KATIE THORESEN/ told him domestic goats could NATIONAL PARK SERVICE) pose a disease risk to Denali’s Dall sheep population. “Bringing in exotic – quote, unquote – domesticated animals, even the caribou herd can be at risk,” Don Striker, Denali’s superintendent, told the Fairbanks News-Miner. “I am personcould change. Any parasites on the doally following up for Denali with mestic goat could prove a threat to the a temporary closure.” park’s Dall sheep if they have never preThe problem for the National Park viously been exposed to them. Service is this: “pets” are allowed at The goat owner, Corey Furrow of Alaska parks like Denali, provided they Anderson, was walking his beloved are on leash. The assumption might be Mr. Gonzo in an area of the park where that most pets on a leash would be of pets are not allowed, thus his citation. the Canus lupus familiaris (dog), not the He told the Fairbanks paper the goat Capra aegagrus hircus (domesticated doesn’t pose a threat to anything. goat) variety. Tell that to Cubs fans. Pets are not specified as to what is allowed or not allowed in the park. That

OUTDOOR CALENDAR SEPTEMBER

1 Opener for black bear season in GMUs 1, 2, 3, 5 1 Opener for grizzly bear season in GMUs 14A, 15, 18 1 Opener for moose season in most sections of GMUs 9, 13, 15B, 18, 19, 23 1 Opener for wolverine season in most GMUs 1 Opener for goat season in GMU 11 and GMU14A 1 Opener for resident caribou season in GMU 12 2 Opener for black bear, grizzly bear, goat and moose in most sections of GMU 14C 5 Opener for nonresident moose season in GMUs 17A and 17B 8 Opener for moose season in GMU 12 15 Opener for grizzly bear season in GMUs 1, 3, 5 15 Opener for moose season GMUs 1, 2, 6, 7 15 Opener for black bear season in GMU 16 25 Opener for elk season in most sections of GMU 8

Swans lift off as a boat heads up the Delta Clearwater River near Fairbanks. (DENNIS MUSGRAVES) SEPTEMBER 2014

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AYAKULIK ADVENTURES

Located on the southwest coastline of Kodiak Island is the famous Ayakulik River. Ayakulik Adventures conducts six-day fully guided fly-fishing excursions for king, sockeye, silver and pink salmon along with steelhead and Dolly Varden trout. Besides fishing we also offer bear viewing for the magnificent Kodiak brown bears, beach combing, mountain nature hiking, floral expeditions, birding and photography tours. With so many guided activities to participate in, Ayakulik Adventures offers a true Alaskan adventure in a remote setting for family and friend vacations. Comfortable lodging on private property begins at the mouth of the Ayakulik River and is surrounded by the Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge. Small and exclusive tour capacity of six guests maximum, with many dates reserved far in advance. Ayakulik Adventures has over 20 years of experience guiding guests for fantastic salmon fishing and bear viewing, making lasting Alaskan memories. For additional information see ayakulikadventures.com or call (907) 486-5999.

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8/19/14 6:01 AM

One of the rivers on Kodiak Island’s road system, the Buskin provides easy access for salmon anglers, and September is a top month on it for coho like this one. (MEMORYMAKERS TOUR AND GUIDE SERVICE)

KODIAK’S SILVER STREAK KNOWN FOR ITS GIANT BROWN BEARS, THE ISLAND ALSO HOSTS BIG COHO EACH FALL

BY LUKE KELLY

hen it comes to fishing in Alaska, Kodiak Island’s Dake and Kadie Schmidt – the owners and operators of MemoryMakers Tour and Guide Service (907– 486-7000; memorymakersinak.com) know a thing or two. Dake Schmidt boasts, along with

extensive knowledge of the rivers and roads on Kodiak, more than 30 years’ worth of fishing experience. For newcomers on Kodiak, Schmidt is a good bet to turn to if you’re looking to land your trophy Alaskan salmon, view the island’s stunning landscape and wildlife, or simply hike to the top of a mountain; he knows the island’s outdoors. SEPTEMBER 2014

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A bonus for anglers who fish for salmon on Kodiak Island: after you keep your two-fish limit of silvers, you’re able to continue catch-and-release fishing. (MEMORYMAKERS TOUR AND GUIDE SERVICE)

And with the silver (coho) salmon fishing on Kodiak starting to heat up as the season shifts from summer into fall, it was only natural for us to turn to Schmidt for a little bit of local know-how in terms of understanding and catching the island’s often-huge silvers. As the silver season begins to pick up on Kodiak, Schmidt advises that it would be a wise bet to first try the Buskin River. “We have 15 accessible rivers on our road system, and the very first silvers come into the Buskin River, and that’s right next to the airport,” he says. “(By the end of August), they really will start trickling into all of the rivers and start intermingling with 42 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

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the pinks and the chums, so at times, you’ll have to weed through a lot of fish to get to a silver.”

KODIAK’S CATCH-AND-RELEASE BONUS With no official “season” for silvers, anglers can go out and try their luck at landing one at any time. Just keep in mind, though, that a fisherman is only allowed to keep two silvers per day. One of the unique things about fishing on Kodiak, however, is that you can continue fishing for silvers even after you’ve caught your limit, so long as you catch and release. “There are places in Alaska,” says Schmidt, “where once you catch your fish for the day and kill them, you can’t fish anymore. But here you can con-

tinue to catch and release, but you’re only allowed two silvers per day.” Although most anglers would love to have an accurate forecast of how the fishing will be into the fall, Schmidt explains that it is difficult to predict whether a run is going to be strong or weak. In regard to predicting this year’s fall silver run on Kodiak, it’s not an exact science. “It’s one big guessing game,” Schmidt says. “One thing I do know, I talk to a lot of our commercial fisherman and I have sport fishing friends out on the ocean, and they’re hitting the silvers real good, and the ones that they are getting are big.” Schmidt explains that this is a promising sign, and could be a precursor to a strong silver season on

SEPTEMBER 2014

8/19/14 6:01 AM

KODIAK RUSSIAN RIVER LODGE

Kodiak Russian River Lodge is located on the edge of the Alaskan wilderness and boasts incredible mountain views and easy access to a variety of outdoor activities, including fishing, hunting and sight-seeing. The bed and breakfast is surrounded on three sides by spectacular mountains and on the fourth by Womens Bay (part of the Gulf of Alaska). The area, locally known as Bells Flats, is located 6 miles from the airport and 4 miles to the Coast Guard base south of the town of Kodiak. It is also close to fishing and hunting areas. We are a half block off the Chiniak Highway and walking distance to the ocean, Sergeant Creek, Russian River, and the Rendezvous Bar and Grill. We are approximately 100 yards from the AC store, a small rural convenience store for gas, liquor, and assorted food items you may have forgotten in town.

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A pretty fall-run Kodiak silver salmon like this one loves to munch on sockeye roe, which can result in many 30-fish days of catch and release in the island’s river systems. (MEMORYMAKERS TOUR AND GUIDE SERVICE)

Kodiak’s rivers. Another reason that one might consider fishing in Kodiak this fall

for silvers is the size of the fish being caught there. They get huge. “We have some of the largest sil-

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vers in the entire state,” explains Schmidt. An average silver might be around 12 or 13 pounds. “If you get

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We are your local charter tour-booking company and adventure travel agency located in Kodiak, Alaska. We do all the hard work so that you have more time and money to experience Kodiak. We know you’ll love our fishing charters, flight-seeing tours and dinner cruises; we’ve worked extra hard to assemble the perfect adventure tour packages. We don’t mind the hard work because making people happy and showing them the vast and beautiful natural landscape of Kodiak is our passion. Our charter tour experts want you to have the most fun on the Rock, as we call it, while experiencing an unforgettable Kodiak adventure! You will find talking with one of our local experts is as good as talking with a good friend who is always happy when something goes well for you. Kodiak Adventures Unlimited tour experts are exactly like that. They make your travel desires a reality. As a trusted local charter tour-booking agency in Kodiak, our clients always happily return to us just like long-time friends. Let us “hook you up” with your Kodiak adventure today! Benefit from our great charter tours and get a great deal on your adventure tour package. Contact us now to learn more about the many charter tours that await! Check us out at kodiakadventuresulimited.com

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8/20/14 9:58 AM

KODIAK SPORTSMAN’S LODGE Come experience the best fishing and Sitka blacktail deer hunting Kodiak Island has to offer! Our lodge is nestled behind Sitkalidak Island and is rated the No. 1 fishery in protected waters. It is only 15 minutes to fish on calm waters in our private, pristine Sitkalidak Straits. With the highest fishing limits in Alaska for king salmon, lingcod, silver salmon, yelloweye, black bass and gray cod you will go home with plenty to share with friends. Enjoy breathtaking views, a comfortable lodge, hospital staff, fantastic food, great fishing and hunting, and world-class wildlife viewing. Being an all-inclusive lodge allows guests to show up and relax as everything is taken care of by owners Gary Sampson and Chef Jeanne Sampson. Check out our web site or give us a shout! We love answering questions and helping people get to our beautiful state of Alaska. So join us soon and become part of the Kodiak Sportsman’s Lodge Family! Old Harbor, Alaska • (866) 744-8777 • (321) 327-5059 www.kodiaksportsmanslodge.com

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a (silver) in the Buskin River or out at Pasagshak, which is at the end of our road system, we get 18-, 19-, and 20-pound silvers out there.” With 26 pounds being the record for a silver, anything over 20 pounds is considered a monster. “You can’t get a hand around the base of their tail,” says Schmidt.

on both fly and spin rods. On top of roe and string leeches, Schmidt explains that he also uses one specific, special lure that “silvers just can’t get enough of.” The lure? It’s a handmade concoction made by a friend of Schmidt’s, Tony Davis of Kodiak Custom Fishing Tackle (907-486-1974; kodiakcustom.com). “His lures are becoming very popular up here, and they absolutely annihiSTICK TO ROE late the fish,” Schmidt says. “Silvers will As far as baits and techniques for come within 2 feet of the bank to come catching silvers, what it boils down to up and hit it, and they hit it so fast, you is that drifted roe works the best, spedon’t even see them coming.” cifically sockeye roe. Kodiak Custom Fishing Tackle lures “For my clients,” says Schmidt, “I are sold all over the state, and in some cure a lot of sockeye roe. The silvers anparts of the Lower 48 as well. In fact, nihilate the roe.” tells Schmidt, the first king salmon of Roe aside, Schmidt also relies on the season in Alaska was caught on one 6-inch-long string leeches to catch the of these lures. salmon as well. “I catch them pretty Fishing techniques aside, another consistently on string leeches. There’s factor that can often affect the silver a couple colors in the pink family that fishing in Alaska is the weather. The really work well for the silvers.” weather on Kodiak, up until recently, In the rivers that Schmidt fishes, it’s hasPMbeen comparatively nicer than it all walk-and-wade, so silvers are caught boat country ad:Layout 1 7/18/14 12:37 Page 1

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has been in past years. “The weather can either help or hinder the fishing up here,” says Schmidt. “One of the best things about Kodiak specifically is when it rains hard, the rivers come up and dirty up a bit like they will anywhere. But once it stops raining, give it about 12 hours and our rivers will start pumping clean again. So we don’t get big, ugly, muddy rivers that are unfishable.” You want to fish for silvers following a big rain, explains Schmidt. Right around the time the rain has stopped and the rivers begin to clear a little bit—that’s when the fishing usually catches fire. “You can have a 30-fish day on silvers,” Schmidt says. So if you’re looking to land a monster silver or have a monster day this fall, Kodiak Island might just be one of your best bets. “In some ways,” says Schmidt, “I consider Kodiak a very original place. You won’t find another fishery anywhere else in the state quite like Kodiak.” ASJ

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LIVE STREAMING FOR COHO

From

FIELD FIRE To

Pound for pound, coho are some of the hardest-fighting anadromous fish there are. They’re also great eating, which is why so many people eagerly anticipate fall coho season in Alaska. (SCOTT HAUGEN)

TIPS FOR LANDING FALL SILVERS BY SCOTT HAUGEN f the five eastern Pacific salmon species, the silver, or coho, attract more anglers to Alaska than any other. Their hard-fighting action, aggressive nature, fine table fare and abundance make them a premier freshwater game fish. Silver salmon occupy numerous

coastal rivers throughout Alaska, from Point Hope to the Panhandle, and now is prime-time to stock the freezer. In July and August many coho are targeted in oceans, bays and big rivers. From September through November, however, pursuing these fish in small streams is a favorite place for me to not only escape crowds, but experience worldclass action. How coho are fished in small streams can be quite different from how they’re fished in bigger rivers. Here’s what works for me:

SEARCHING STREAMS

Small streams are so shallow in nature they can often be waded in most places, thus they have different holding zones than larger rivers. There may be no big holes to offer migrating fish relief, and deep slots in cut-banks can be few and far between, so fish seek refuge in other places. In small streams, search for silvers congregating behind boulders, stumps, sweepers and elevated gravel bars. Anything that breaks the water flow is capable of holding silver salmon. The SEPTEMBER 2014

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The author has pulled many coho from slack-water settings throughout Alaska. There are various approaches that can be used to catch silvers in this type of water. (SCOTT HAUGEN)

outside edges of bends are also good holding zones for coho. Additionally, holes only a few feet deep can keg with silvers, especially in tidally influenced

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systems. It doesn’t take much water to hold a pod of silver salmon. For fly anglers, it’s hard to beat small-stream coho action. Silvers will

attack a multitude of bright, flashy flies, with size 2 or 4 Egg-sucking Leeches, Flash Flies and Deer Hair Pollywogs being among the most common. Dark-colored Woolly Buggers also perform well, as do pink patterns. Running jigs beneath a float is also highly effective. Here, the jig may be less than a foot beneath the surface, so a low-profile approach is important. Downsizing to a 1/16-ounce jig and float to match can make a big difference. A 1/32-ounce jig with a strike indicator also works wonders in small streams. Work the presentation well downstream of your position, so as not to spook fish. This is where a floating mainline comes in handy, as it reduces mending. Drifted bait can be tough to fish in small streams simply because there may not be enough current or depth to move the terminal gear downstream. This is where fishing bait beneath a float can pay off, and it’s a great way to cover water in search of fish. Suspend a glob of cured eggs beneath a ⅛-ounce

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8/18/14 2:35 PM

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float, and you’re set. If tossing hardware, it may be necessary to downsize the offering to prevent hangups and achieve a realistic drift. You’ll want to stay with a strong mainline – 15- to 17-pound test – to decrease lost gear and be able to control the fight. Be sure to have a stout rod and a reel with a good drag system, for when these fish are hooked they can run like crazy in shallow water. Slack bodies of water like sloughs, back eddies, even ponds, can be prime habitats for silver salmon to move through and hold in this time of year. Many of these fish congregate near shorelines and can be reached on foot. The most challenging part of catching coho in these shallow, slack settings, is presenting an offering without spooking them. Avoid alerting fish with your line, and restrict body movement. Casting lures is one of the most effective ways to target silvers holding in shallow, slack water. It’s ideal if you can see where the fish are and decide where

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casts should be made. Look to see which way they’re facing and cast well ahead of and beyond them. The idea is to not alert fish to the lure hitting the water, rather to get them to hammer it as it wiggles past. If they do not react to the lure fluttering by, make the next cast so it travels closer to the school when retrieved. Lures with pink hues, skirts, sounds and scent chambers all work well in estuaries. For egg fishermen, dropping a bait below a float will work in these seemingly stagnant bodies of water. As with a lure, cast beyond the school and ease the presentation back to where the fish are holding. Try going without a sinker, allowing the bait to free-fall into the strike zone. Don’t be afraid to go with a large bait, what you’d use in a big river. As the egg scent disperses, hopefully it triggers a feeding frenzy. This fall, evaluate the small-stream settings you’ll be fishing. Read the wa-

ter, then figure out which presentation will work best based on your position. Once dialed in to the multiple ways silvers can be caught, you’ll soon understand why these salmon attract anglers from around the globe. ASJ Editor’s note: Signed copies of Scott Haugen’s popular book, A Flyfisher’s Guide To Alaska, can be obtained by sending $37 (includes S&H) to Haugen Enterprises, P.O. Box 275, Walterville, OR 97489. The 835-page book contains 120 photos and more than 110 maps from around the state. This is one of the most complete travel guides ever written for anglers heading to Alaska, with hundreds of rivers, lakes and streams covered in detail.

SEPTEMBER 2014

8/18/14 2:35 PM

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ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

8/19/14 6:28 AM

From

FIELD REALLY ‘GOOD’ COHO FIRE To

The author’s friend, fishing guide Herb Good, provided her the idea for a new twist on preparing tasty silver salmon. (HAUGEN ENTERPRISES)

BYTIFFANY HAUGEN

orking in the fishing and hunting industry, our family meets a lot of interesting folks. Many are dedicated sportsmen and sportswomen who do all they can to help promote and keep the outdoor industry on the right track. Whether they’re taking youths out to catch their first fish or helping them build a fishing rod, their efforts are passionate, clearly ones that are intended to promote and share the great sport we all love. Longtime Alaska fishing guide and good friend Herb Good is one such sportsman. Teaching alongside Herb in the many sport-show venues we’ve attended together over the past five years has been a pleasure. One of my favorite recipes is Herb’s seafood and salmon creation. Herb never measures anything – it’s more a “handful of this, a slather of that” kind of recipe – so feel free to adjust the list-

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ed ingredients below to suit your tastes. If looking for a different way to prepare kings you may have in the freezer, or cook up a fresh coho, give this recipe a try. It’s an amazing combination of seafood flavors all melted into yummy goodness, one our family loves.

1 fillet salmon or steelhead (three to six servings) ¾ cup sour cream 1½ cups salad shrimp 1½ cups crab meat ½ cup mayonnaise ⅔ cup shredded cheese ½ tablespoon dill weed Salt and pepper to taste

dill over the top. Partially tent foil over the top of the fish. Bake in a preheated 350-degree oven 15 minutes. Open foil tent and cook an additional five to 10 minutes, depending on thickness of fish. For best results use an internal thermometer and remove fish from the oven when middle temperature reaches 135 to 140 degrees.

On a large sheet of foil, place fish fillet, skin side down (remove skin if desired). Season fillet with salt and pepper, then spread sour cream evenly over fish. Top with shrimp and crab and a thin layer of mayonnaise. Sprinkle cheese and

Editor’s note: For signed copies of Tiffany’s popular new book, Cooking Seafood, send a check for $20 (free S&H) to Haugen Enterprises, P.O. Box 275, Walterville, OR 97489. This and other cookbooks can also be ordered at tiffanyhaugen.com.

SWEETHEART SALMON

SEPTEMBER 2014

8/18/14 2:36 PM

HARROD’S WILD GAME CRANBERRY SAUSAGE by Ron Harrod

7 pounds game meat (pork or beef is fine too!) 3 pounds pork shoulder 1 bag Harrod’s Wild Game Cranberry Sausage Seasoning blended and packaged by Michlitch, Spokane’s Spice Company 1 14-oz can hole cranberry sauce ½ cup of ice water Cut both game and pork meat into pieces right-sized for your meat grinder. Grind and mix meat thoroughly. Consider using 5 pounds pork with 5 pounds of duck/goose meat because of the very lean and fine-grained nature of this game meat. Empty one bag of Harrod’s Wild Game Cranberry Sausage Seasoning into bowl, add water, and cranberry sauce. Mix thoroughly, add to ground meat, and thoroughly incorporate. Stuff into casings or can be package loose. You can package and freeze the sausages fresh or smoke on a smoker. Follow the directions on the back of the seasoning package for perfect smoked sausage!

THAI FISH STICKS From Maxine’s Firweed Bistro

10-ounce rockfish cut into 1-ounce portions 2 cups flour 1 tablespoon salt and 1 teaspoon pepper 5 eggs 2 cups Panko bread crumbs peanut oil 1 yellow onion, finely chopped 5 each lemon grass (pounded and chopped) 2 ounces galangal root 3 tbl green curry paste 5 12-ounce can coconut milk 20 kaffir lime leaves ¾ cup fish sauce ¼ cup lime juice

2 fresh mangos chopped ½ cup lemon juice 2 hot chilis with seeds 1 cup sugar 1 cup mung bean sprouts ¼ cup thai basil ¼ cup mint ¼ cup cilantro 5 cups cooked jasmine rice

Cut fish into 1-ounce strips. Mix flour, salt and pepper in bowl, beat five eggs. Dredge fish in flour, egg wash and then panko. Set aside. In sauce pan heat three tablespoons peanut oil; sweat onions, add lemon grass, galangal root and curry paste; stir for about four minutes. Add coconut milk and kaffir lime leaves; bring to boil then reduce heat to low and stir occasionally for two hours. Strain and add fish sauce and lime juice. (Water can be added at this time to get desired consistency.) In sauce pan mix chopped mangos, lemon juice, chilies and sugar cook on medium heat for about 15 minutes. Toss sprouts, basil, mint and cilantro in small bowl. Pan fry fish in peanut oil for two minutes on each side, or until cooked through. Place on paper towel to absorb excess oil. Serve in large bowl; layer curry sauce, jasmine rice and fish. Place sprout mix on side and top fish with mango chutney and enjoy.

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SEPTEMBER 2014

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TAKING ANOTHER SHOT COMBINING A ‘FEATHERS AT LAST CALL AND FISH’ FALL OUTING

Sharp-tailed grouse are colorful and plentiful in the Delta Clearwater area of the Alaskan Interior. (DENNIS MUSGRAVES)

BY DENNIS MUSGRAVES

The Delta Clearwater River hosts the largest run of coho that ascends Alaska’s mighty Yukon River. (DENNIS MUSGRAVES)

Moose are a regular sight in this area of the interior. (DENNIS MUSGRAVES)

laska announces a “last call” for migrating salmon every season near summer’s end. Inevitably, the fish stop entering fresh water. It’s annoying for many sport fishermen, including this self-diagnosed fishaholic. I am among a group of relentless anglers who pursue salmon until the unwelcome finale, and September normally marks my last chance to break out my rod and reel. As nature’s clock ticks down to closing time I begin thinking about additional outdoor activities to help fill the impending void. Developing a condition which I refer to as “bird brain” during this transitional period is not uncommon. The seasonal changes and dwindling opportunities chasing wild salmon invoke a desire in me to experience adventures found in Alaska with upland bird hunting. The thrill of flushing grouse and the challenge of shooting them in flight are compulsive and consuming. Aside from plotting dates for a final bent rod with a

salmon, I simply can’t keep my thoughts away from wingshooting in the fall.

Casting and blasting

Fortunately, a window of opportunity exists between September and October, when Interior Alaska outdoorsmen can find good bird hunting and salmon fishing in the day. Unlike hunting for big game, I can accomplish a grouse hunt in a few hours, harvest a meal, and have the enjoyment of being in the outdoors with a shooting sport. Such a combo

satisfies both outdoor afflictions in a simple day trip. A special “cast and blast” trip is achieved for me and a good friend, Jeff Beyer. Small game hunting opportunities in Alaska are plentiful. Nearly every region has good populations of upland bird species, which include three species of ptarmigan and four types of grouse. Sharp-tailed grouse are exclusively found in the central portion of the state, specifically in the interior valleys and foothills of Alaska’s Game ManageSEPTEMBER 2014

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ment Unit (GMU) 20. Sharp-tails thrive in the vicinity of Delta Junction because of an ideal supporting habitat.

Grouse options

The grouse are medium- to largesize birds with an almost chicken-like appearance. Spotted colors of brown and white cover their feathers. Their distinct short-pointed tail feathers allow for an easy identification in the field. Male birds display bright yellow-colored, eyebrow-like bands (called combs) above each eye. The pointy-tailed game birds can be found in low-lying areas of muskeg, brushlands and near shrub-spruce treelines located along the Richardson

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ing areas in GMU 20D can be accessed by several unimproved roads and trails that lead off from the highways. I normally trailer my ATV so I can The author with a double dip of ride farther away from the sharp-tailed grouse. Setting aside four road before stalking the dirt hours for the birds is usually plenty of time to come up with some tasty trails, low grass-brush line or meat. (DENNIS MUSGRAVES) wood line, trying to flush or spot birds perched directly atop spruce trees. The fertile grouse hunting grounds are in close proximity to Delta Clearwater River. A short drive of less than 15 miles from either highway system allows easy access to the state recreational site and boat launch. The distance is perfect for a combo hunting and fishing trip during the short fall season. tural areas located east of Delta Junction host plentiful numbers of birds, but Coho final run most of the area is private property. Delta Clearwater River happens to My approach to hunting these tasty host the largest congregation of regame birds is not complex. Public huntturning coho, or silver, salmon from Highway and Alaska Highway. Sharpies will also favorite recently burned out areas and agricultural plots. The agricul-

SEPTEMBER 2014

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8/19/14 9:42 AM

riverbank or wading in the current near the Yukon River drainage. Coho begin in a dilemma over planning a quick onethe state campground will also produce day outing, which had to be relatively entering the DCW in September, which hookups with passing fish. close to our homes in the Tanana Valley. coincides with the sharp-tails presDeliberations seemed to be ence in the area brushlands. in a deadlock with Jeff wantThe fish have traveled over CASTING & BLASTING THE DELTA CLEARWATER ing to get his jet boat wet for 1,000 miles from the ocean coho and my ideas leaning up the mighty Yukon River Location Game Management Unit Area 20D (the Delta Clearwater area) towards feeling the recoil and through the silt-laden is centrally located in the heart of Alaska and offers some unique of a shotgun on a sharp-tail Tanana River before reaching opportunities during the fall season for combining small game bird the final tributary. The salm- hunting and salmon fishing in a single outing. The best time to ac- shoot. Our discussion was on are no longer mint bright complish a “blast and cast” here is from September through Oc- inclusive, and did not take silver. Their sides are now tober. Good populations of sharp-tailed grouse are present in the long for an obvious question colored a vibrant brick red surrounding brushlands and agricultural areas located east of Delta to arise. “Why not do both?” and male fish display large Junction. During the same time frame an abundant return of coho we concluded. Merging both salmon enters the Clearwater River. events would be doubling pronounced black kypes. Public-access areas open for hunting sharp-tailed grouse can be the fun. So it was decided to Although these salmon do not have the typi- found from the Richardson Highway between Shaw Creek and Delta make a go for feathers and cal appearance of saltwa- Junction, from Delta Junction to Donnelly Dome, and along the Alas- fish in one day. We planned on dividter-caught table fare, fish are ka Highway between Delta Junction and Tok. Fishing for coho is done on the Delta Clearwater River, with main ing the day equally to allow often harvested by locals. access made from the Clearwater State Recreational Site & CampSince the flesh is firm and ground. The riverfront recreational site can be reached by either appropriate time for each acceptable for consumption, highway; take Clearwater Road at Milepost 1415 of the Alaska High- activity. Bird hunting would it’s not uncommon to see a way and drive 8.5 miles, or turn onto Jack Warren Road at Milepost be first, in the early morning when sharp-tails seem limit on a stringer near the 268 of the Richardson Highway and drive 11 miles. to be most active. Setting campground. Current fisha four-hour cutoff time for ing regulations allow anglers What to bring Sharp-tailed grouse: Light-gauge shotguns (20, 28, .410) and bird hunting ensured good to retain three coho per day small-caliber rifles (.22) are both popular choices for bagging time management and alfrom Delta Clearwater. Coho fishing on this river grouse in Alaska. My choice is a 12-gauge pump-action shotgun us- lowed sufficient amount of system is normally a catching size 6 or 7 shot in 2¾-inch shells. Wearing a good pair of com- remaining sunlight in the and-release event for me (al- fortable waterproof boots or hip waders will be a must in order to day to make the switch for navigate lowland muskeg areas when retrieving dispatched birds. fly fishing coho during the though I have harvested fish Wearing layered clothing with sleeves will enable you to easily adin the past for a meal on the just your comfort level while walking and prevent arms from getting late afternoon. I prefer to carry a grill or so I can put a wood scratched when traveling in dense brush or tree lines. Lastly, don’t 12-gauge pump-action shotsmoker to them). Some an- forget to bring items for cleaning and storing your harvest. glers may thumb their nose Coho: Having a jet boat will greatly enhance your fishing trip, gun, using 2¾-inch shells at the outward appearance; but is not required to catch fish. Both conventional and fly fishing in a number 6 shot count. however, I am no salmon methods can be successful for anglers. Large spinners or spoons are Choosing a firearm for snob. I find the Clearwater popular choices for conventional fishermen, while fly fishermen will grouse hunting varies between hunters and is a percoho taste just fine and ac- drift assorted colored streamer and leech patterns. Purple Egg-sucking Leeches are my preferred fly of choice. Medi- sonal choice. tually hold a certain majestic Most use lighter shotlook in their spawning phase um-action-sized rods will be adequate. Durable waders and wader boots with warm under clothes are highly recommended. A stocking guns in 20 or 28 gaugcoloration. cap and gloves will help to keep you warm on colder days. Other esThe blushed salmon can sentials to consider are a landing net, hand warmers, and, of course, es. Some grouse hunters choose to target the grouse be caught using a 6-7 weight bring a camera. fly rod by drifting streamers Strict rules apply for hunting and sport fishing in Alaska and indi- with a .22-caliber rifle since and leech patterns in the cur- viduals should be aware of all the regulations before they depart for it helps prevent numerous rent close to the bottom. The the field or cast a line. Current regulations, additional information pellets in the meat and alfishery provides an excellent and emergency orders can be found at the Alaska Department of lows for increased precision while making a distant shot. amount of action for anglers Fish & Game website (adfg.alaska.gov). -DM Locating game birds is at varying skill levels. Having not difficult if they are present. Most a boat will enable anglers to find deep Combining two loves of the time you can find them perched holes that hold large groups of salmon. The idea of a “blast and cast” was like a Christmas tree ornament on the But access by boat is not required in orco-conspired between Jeff and me a top of spruce trees, or in a small covey der to achieve success; casting from the couple years ago. We found ourselves 60 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

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SEPTEMBER 2014

8/18/14 2:44 PM

B.C. SALMON, HALIBUT, COD & STEELHEAD THE DOES IT ALL

Fishmyster

ny patron of the “angling arts” will tell you that the supreme measurement of any professional fishing guide comes down to a singular question: how does that experienced, skilled guide make you feel about yourself? It is a tougher question than one might think — given the broad horizon of potential answers. For Allan Pearson, an earnest 26-year-old surf school manager from Tofino, B.C., fishing with Ken “The Fishmyster” Myers proved to be a remarkable experience. “Ken makes me feel like I’m a good fisherman,” Allan recently confirmed while surveying a fish hold loaded with limits of Chinook salmon, halibut and cod. His comments came at the end of an outstanding day of fishing with Ken in the Barkley Sound region off the west coast of Vancouver Island, B.C. “Ken’s passion is amazing,” Allan continued. “He is so open to sharing information. He answers all questions — even the dumb ones! Ken explains where we’re fishing, why we’re there, all details including methods and tactics. Honestly, I didn’t know fishing guides like Ken even existed!” High praise indeed, but not at all surprising given Ken’s extensive experience. Born and raised in Port Alberni on Vancouver Island and based in Ucluelet, Ken has spent the past 25 years as a professional tidal and freshwater guide. Unlike most of his contemporaries, however, Ken provides his guide services 12 months of the year. Spring and summer months are spent on the Pacific Ocean chasing trophy kings, “barndoor” halibut and monster cod — all from his luxurious, state-of-theKen “The Fishmyster” Myers (left) put Alex Morrow on this 27-pound king salmon. art fishing machine: a Fountain 38IX powered by three (that’s right- three) 300hp Mercury Verado engines. When the fall months roll around Ken treats his guests to some of the world’s finest steelhead fisheries. “I have been fishing these Vancouver Island rivers since I was a kid — and I know them as well as anybody. Just because the tidal opportunities tail off by October is no reason to stop fishing. Many of my clients fish with me in both summer and winter. Different methods, different fisheries, but still great fishing,” explains Ken. Allan and his friends who joined him on this trip represent the new generation of anglers; young, fit and up for everything. The fact that these young men and women — children of the ‘baby boomer’ generation — are so keen bodes well for the future of West Coast fisheries. All five species of Pacific salmon — Chinook (kings), coho (silvers), pink, sockeye and chum-travel the tidal waters in the Barkley Sound region, and creel surveys indicate that many of these runs are once again on the rise. Likewise, Allan and his friends are prepared to provide the stewardship that is required to ensure these magnificent salmon runs remain vibrant for future generations. Ken’s boat, the MV Overkill, is fully loaded with cutting-edge navigation systems; personal floatation; life raft; stabilizers (for added comfort while trolling); an Espar furnace (for those chilly Pacific Northwest mornings); a fully functioning head and loads of deck space. Ken also treats his guests to “nothing but the best” when it comes to fishing gear: Islander Reels and Sage rods, and an array of tackle that would humble any Wes Hartman hoists a 74-pound halibut while Jeff tackle store. Morrow (left) and Ken “The Fishmyster” Myers “The Overkill just adds to the complete experience. It is an unbelievable fishing (right) soak up the experience. machine — amazing to fish from because there is so much space and it is so solid on the water. Of course, having 900hp on the back is just so cool. Getting to and from the fishing grounds is a snap!” Allan gushed. Ken is currently booking fall and winter steelhead excursions. Prime dates for the 2015 tidal season are still available, but they quickly book up.

Contact Ken directly on his cell at (250) 720-5118, email him at fishmyster@shaw.ca. or visit his website at fishmyster.com.

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just shy of a tall grass line along a dirt trail. Unlike their close relatives, docile spruce grouse, the birds spook quickly and flush easily when within range of a good shot. Last year Jeff and I were able to kick up several large coveys of birds, harvesting a total of five between us in fewer than three hours of hunting.

Onto the salmon

The intermission between acts is short. Moving down the road and dropping a boat into the Clearwater takes only minutes. The fishing is neither technical nor difficult. Catching coho has an almost consistent predictable conclusion in September. Locating groups of bold red-colored salmon swimming in the clear-running river can be done with little effort. It’s not the challenge of finding and catching the fish that draws me; it’s the ability to catch oodles of fish. Fly fishermen will find fish very re-

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sponsive, almost automatic with any type of bright-colored streamer. I prefer drifting a purple Egg-sucking Leech close to the river bottom. Fishermen casting hardware will find large spinners also work very well using a slowand-low retrieve method. In addition, resident Arctic grayling are among the salmon and found in good numbers. During peak timing of the salmon run, catching and releasing a dozen fish in one hour is representative for most anglers. Fishing typically ends because of dropping daytime temperatures and diminishing light. It’s cold enough on some days is to lock up fishing reels and smother line guides with ice. Moisture dripping off the fly line or fishing line from repeated casting accumulates quickly and hardens like concrete. The frustrating frozen water in the line guides prevents casting and requires constant cleaning to keep the spaces open to allow fishing line to pass through.

But at the end of the day, the pesky cold is easily overlooked in the entire scheme of a completed blast-and-cast outing. The productive salmon waters and generous numbers of grouse found in this game management unit keep me coming back for the combo event every season. The experience leaves me satisfied yet exhausted at the end of a day, providing a short-term escape and temporary relief to my outdoor addiction urges. Even better is the opportunity for friends to share time in the field and on an open river once more before the harsh winter arrives. I also really appreciate tasty bacon-wrapped sharp-tail grouse breast fresh off the grill. ASJ Editor’s note: Author Dennis Musgraves sportfishes all over Alaska 100-plus days of the year and is a member of the “Alaskan Salmon Slayers.” Read more about them at alaskansalmonslayers.com.

SEPTEMBER 2014

8/18/14 5:14 PM

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SEPTEMBER 2014

ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

8/18/14 2:44 PM

150 BUCKS FOR A BUCK AN ALASKAN’S ‘NONRESIDENT’ HUNTING QUEST BY JEFF LUND

hat’s the worst part about being a driver’s license-having, mail-getting, job-having member of a town in Alaska? You’re not considered a resident until you’ve been here for 12 months. The state of Alaska recognizes that I exist, but I don’t yet belong. I am still onesixth Californian in its eyes, so until October I suffer the out-of-state fees for my licenses and tags. However, I’m not very patient. That’s why rather than waiting for the anniversary of my return to the state I called home for 16 years to get my resident hunting license, I went ahead and bought the out-of-state variety and $150 deer tag. There’s something about alpine hunts and hiking around in the warm of the dying summer that I love. That was worth the fee, but when the season opened, I wasn’t out for just any ol’ deer. I was looking for a $150 deer. I didn’t have specifications in my 64 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

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head with regards to rack size, spread, points or eye guards, but I did want it to be worth it, whatever worth it meant to me in that moment. But this wasn’t just a hunting trip. If I really wanted a nice buck, I’d head to the alpine somewhere. But the rivers are crammed with salmon, so I’d do both. I’d completely confuse my inner hunter/collector because the hunting and fishing combination doesn’t splice well. Most of the times the seasons don’t overlap, and neither do early-season locations.

MY PLAN WAS to fish the rivers for a cool-

er full of salmon and hunt the roads for a $150 buck. I was on the road before the fog burned off and looking for deer on a slope near a clearcut by midmorning. There’s something deliciously primitive about going to the woods to get your own food. It’s just like the old days, except if it were the old days I wouldn’t be cruising in a four-wheel-drive truck up logging roads, turning

A lot of does were spotted, as was this young buck. But that’s just what it was: a young one, not the $150 buck the author wanted so badly. (JEFF LUND)

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On a day like this with a view like this one from Coffman Cove, stopping to enjoy the scenery makes the misadventures worth it. (JEFF LUND)

off the satellite radio and then lowering power windows to get a better look at the terrain through shock-absorbing, rubber-coated HD binoculars. It was already pretty warm, so I figured that even brunch time was too late, so I didn’t linger long. The first river was low but busy with fish in the deeper runs. I didn’t even bother to put on my waders since it was a thin river with plenty of salmon a roll cast away. It took three or four until I had a good hookup with a pink salmon I wouldn’t keep, but didn’t mind catching. He took me under the bridge, or rather he allowed the strong current to assist in his run, so I hopped a few rocks under the bridge and was gliding him toward shore when the fly popped out and my fly rod recoiled, hitting the support and breaking 2 inches off the rod tip. It’s at moments like these you realize how far you are from home. Home 68 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

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doesn’t creep into your mind for hours, but all of a sudden, you can see a specific area of home – the wall on which your backup rod leans. I had extra water, extra plastic spoons, extra toilet paper, but not a spare fly rod. I did have my spinning rod but thought it more poetic to hit five rivers on the fly rather than toss a spinner. I had no choice now but to keep roll casting without part of my 7-weight. I moved spots after a few fish and continued to the next network of logging roads, off, but not too far, from the highway. This was a biathlon-style trip after all. It was now the heat of the day. I knew nothing would be moving buck-wise, so it became a scouting mission – hiking with a gun. I had no problem with that, especially after I stopped off at the burger place in Coffman Cove for lunch and a thick chocolate milk shake.

SO IT WENT all day. Between rivers I

pulled up logging roads, parked and then walked. Some hunters drive as far as they can, but I like to attempt to mute my boots and amble over the rock myself. There will be a day I am too broken, too old, or too dead to do simple things like that. The cooler wasn’t full and my tag wasn’t punched, but isn’t the point to be out, rather than to point out how great an angler or hunter you are? I was writing that in my head when I settled behind a rock at the top of a grassy slope an hour before sunset. Sure enough, the deer started coming. Forget that romantic, “it’s just about the experience” nonsense. I’d write about redemption. My fly rod was broken, but I had a buck in the truck. And it would be a $150 buck to boot! The first deer the cool evening brought out was a doe. It kept walking toward me as if attracted by

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Broken fly rod? That didn’t stop the author from pulling in a pink salmon on this cast-and-blast trip. (JEFF LUND)

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my smell. I guess I smelled so bad I wasn’t human. I was a non-threat. It passed behind me and worked its way to my truck. The driver door was open and the keys were sitting on the seat. The doe looked at the keys, sniffed, then looked at me. No way; my keys are going to be stolen by a doe? That is the stupidest thing I have ever heard. I wouldn’t write about that, just couldn’t. But for a few seconds I was sure I’d be

watching it happen. How do you shoo a doe away from your truck 76 yards out? Why didn’t I just leave the door cracked rather than wide open? Down the slope came more motion. The head was in the alder branches. Was that the buck? My buck? The $150 buck? No, it was just another meaty doe. I knew it was going to happen, though. He’d show

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himself any second. Gnats, no-seeums and mosquitos descended on me and sucked my blood. It would all be worth it in just a few minutes. Less light, more gnats. Curious doe hadn’t jacked my truck or my keys from what I could tell, so I

worried more about the treeline. I saw two eyes and a nose appear from between two bull pines, but it was another doe. It stared at me. The gnats got so bad that I wondered whether, if the $150 buck did show up, the sheer thickness of the cloud would deflect the bullet.

The river was full of fish, so when the salmon are in, it’s a question of not if, but how many? Even when the buck gets away, there was something to do. (JEFF LUND)

The

Perseverance

FISHING

Servant

I waited. And waited some more.

THE SUN LEFT, but the lingering light

was plenty to shoot by, though I was running low on minutes. It would be any second now. These four does have to have at least one buck friend nearby; just one buck friend, please. But nothing emerged and I walked back to the truck. There was maybe enough light to shoot, but nothing too far. I called it. The little doe kept eating noisily near my truck, occasionally giving me a look of, “You’re lucky I didn’t steal your rig for trying to shoot my friends.” I started the drive back to town, pulled off the highway on a downhill, sat in the bed of my truck and watched a crescent moon shine white against a purple sky with dull orange and red seemingly frozen in an explosion. A disastrously beautiful day indeed. A week later, I put down a 4-point that was in my sights and filled my freezer. It wasn’t one for the books, but it was certainly worth 150 bucks . ASJ

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SEPTEMBER 2014

8/19/14 9:31 AM

Oleg Gozobohenno (right) caught a 312-pound halibut to win the Seward Derby for 2014. He was aboard Capt. Andy Mezirow’s Crackerjack Voyager sportfishing boat out of Seward. (SEWARD

CHAMBER OF COMMERCE)

A HALIBUT HAT TRICK

CAPTAIN GUIDES BIGGEST FISH FOR THIRD TIME IN FOUR TRIES BY ANDY MEZIROW

he Seward Halibut Tournament was more competitive than ever this year. Captains were swinging for the fences each day during the monthlong June derby, and there were some monsters caught. Skipper Chris Boyd had five daily winners, followed closely by Jacob Effen on the Grand Slam, Capt. Andy Mezirow on the Crackerjack Voyager and Steve Zernia of the Pursuit, who each scored four in their respective boats.

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Ryan Rogers from the One Day had only one daily winner, June 20th’s, but it was a monster that weighed in at 260 pounds. Seven days later the Crackerjack Voyager weighed in an 80inch halibut that looked like it might be a repeat of last year’s victory two days before the end of the tournament. But that fish was a little smaller at 250 pounds. Amazingly, “Capt. Elf” on the Grand Slam weighed in a 259-pound fish, good for second place at the time. On the last day of the tournament, it looked like it would be the One Day, Grand Slam and Crackerjack Voyager as the boats making up the finalists in the money. Mezirow had other plans and defended his 2013 victory by amazingly delivering a 312-pound monster, caught by Oleg Gozobohenno of Moscow, Russia, that was weighed in with just hours to go. That makes Mezirow’s streak of guiding anglers to the grand prize three times in the last four years. The last-minute victory will surely fuel the

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BIGGEST FISH OF THE SEASON

A look at some of the largest halibut caught at the Seward Derby: Date June 30 June 20 June 27 June 21 June 29 June 14 June 26 June 9 June 1

Angler Oleg Gozobohenno Mark Callister Randy Sinipson Dameon Schank Michael Moriarity Greg Caldwell Fred Houtman Terry Gonsalves Patrick Hankins

fire of others to try even harder next year. The tournament has come to represent camaraderie and friendly competition for a number of charter operators and private boaters in town, creating a great environment for visiting fishermen too. All participating tournament captains were eligible for a captain’s prize. This year, Matt Rutz on the Servant won a round-trip ticket anywhere Alaska Airlines flies.

Size 312.2 260.6 259.4 188.6 177.4 171.6 164.8 145.2 134.2

Charter boat Crackerjack Voyager One Day Grand Slam Tia Rose Pursuit Sea Quest Tia Rose Tia Rose Tia Rose

Daniel Watson from Minnesota got lucky while fishing with Semaka Charters. Dan reeled in a Seward.com tagged fish worth a cool $500 on June 10. Find a complete list of winners on the Seward Halibut Tournament page on seward.com. ASJ Editor’s note: For more on fishing and staying in Seward, see seward.com. Contact Capt. Andy Mezirow at (800) 5663912, or go to crackerjackcharters.com.

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ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

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B E S T O F A L A S K A LO D G E S RiveRhaven Cabins Riverhavenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s log cabins are located in beautiful Cooper Landing, Alaska and nestled among the birch and spruce trees along the banks of the world-famous Kenai River. The teal-colored Upper Kenai River is surrounded by mountains and fishing opportunities abound. The confluence of the mighty Kenai and the world famous Russian River is only 6 miles from the cabins. The Russian River has one of the most productive sockeye salmon runs in the world. The Kenai also has sockeye, king and coho salmon, and fabulous rainbow trout fishing. Riverhavenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s log cabins range from small to large and are like having your own private place on the river. The cabins are updated with satellite TV, LCD flatscreen televisions, free wireless and fully equipped kitchens. There are river or mountain views from most every window. All cabins have private baths, charcoal grills and decks for enjoying the outdoors. Prices, for two, range from $125 to $225/night. Please call 907-398-8834 or email riverhaven@arctic.net for availability.

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B E S T O F A L A S K A LO D G E S

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B E S T O F A L A S K A LO D G E S TOGIAK RIVER LODGE Owners: Larry and Patty Lund Where you are located? Togiak River, Togiak, Alaska in Bristol Bay How long have you been there? Lodge has been here 18 years and Lunds have owned and managed it for 8 years. What kinds of fish do you catch there? Kings, silvers, reds, chums, pinks, dollies, rainbows What other kinds of non-fishing activities do you have in your area? Sightseeing and bear watching What kind of food do you serve? Breakfast to order, lunch is shore lunch or soup and sandwiches; dinner is prime rib, halibut, salmon, roasted turkey, roasted chicken, ribs, seafood fettucine. And yummy desserts. How many guests do you serve at a time? 18 to 22 How do people get to the lodge? 90 present will take a charter from Anchorage directly to Togiak Village and I will give them a 15 minute boat ride to the lodge. Other travelers will fly from Anchorage to Dillingham and from Dillingham to Togiak. What makes you different from other lodges in Alaska? We are the only lodge and only outfitter on this river of 60 miles in Bristol Bay, Alaska. The lodge is located 5 miles from the saltwater, so we are fishing on chrome bright fish each day. We are remotely located but have a very nice lodge with private rooms, warm showers, hot tub, sauna, satellite TV, internet, and cell phones. Little to no competition and located in beautiful scenic Southwest Alaska.

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Learning Curve The

IF YOU GO

A ROOKIE HUNTER HEADS NORTH

When Caribou season is generally late August to early September, depending on the year, unit, and resident status. Transport 40-Mile Air (fortymileair. com) is based in Tok and will fly you to remote ridgetops and streambeds for hunting, hiking, and fishing adventures. They will also organize your hunting tags. Timing Allow at least 10 days for five days of hunting and logistics. Flying into the tundra takes an entire day and time should be allotted for be weather delays. After the hunt Delta Meat and Sausage (deltameat.com) and Pro Taxidermy (protaxidermy.com) did excellent work and are located enroute back to Fairbanks. -EH

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SEPTEMBER 2014

8/18/14 3:05 PM

By Erik Henne

our months ago I had never touched a firearm. Now I was crouched alone in a red blueberry thicket along an unnamed Alaskan river with a rifle. I was miles from camp, which stood dozens of miles from the nearest human or road. As the hours slipped by I watched the sun move west, the rain squalls come and go, and the leaves turn yellow. I struggled to be patient

and still as I waited for a caribou to round the bend. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m always up for an adventure with my best buddy, David Johnson, which typically involves us climbing a new mountain. When he asked if I would be interested in joining him and his father, Mike Johnson, on an Alaskan wilderness caribou hunting trip, I jumped at the opportunity despite having no experience hunting or handling guns. I had no idea what to expect, but it promised to be another fantastic ad-

venture. Mike took me under his wing, and, before I knew it, I was consistently shooting a magazine of kill shots into a half-size caribou poster at 200 yards.

THE ADVENTURE BEGAN as we wedged ourselves and 50 pounds of gear into single-passenger Piper Super Cub bush planes. I was in complete awe as our fleet of small planes floated above the vibrant September fall colors of the tundra, through mountain passes, and over the occasional bull moose stand-

The author (left, with friend David Johnson), didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have a lot of action early on, but a bull emerged from scattered tree cover, providing the opportunity for a firsttime hunter. (ERIK HENNE) SEPTEMBER 2014

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ing in a swamp. The pilots chattered on the radio as they looked for a location to drop our group. Eventually the lead pilot, Leif, found a lonely corner of the Charley River and we landed on a 200yard river bar. Moments later the planes buzzed off and we were suddenly alone with the sky, the tundra, and the animals. We set up camp and were unsure

what the bears would think of us, so we strung electric bear fences around the tents and food depot. Typically, when David and I embark into the wilderness, the odds of a successful trip are increased by expending more energy. Want to reach the top of that mountain? Climb harder. Want to have a beautiful sunset camp? Hike

faster. It was with that mentality that we approached hunting. On our first day we crossed 5 miles of tussocks, and all we managed to do was scare one small herd of caribou at 400 yards even further away. Our second day we hiked harder. We climbed hills, pushed through reddening forests, and crossed clear streams.

David Johnson (left) and his dad, Mike, glass for caribou. The authorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first hunt started with some long hikes that only managed to scare away a herd. (ERIK HENNE)

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Caribou were spotted early on the trip, but the author and his hunting partner started to question their strategy. So they instead waited for the caribou to come to them. (ERIK HENNE)

The scenery was astounding, just absolute wilderness. Only a handful of people, if any, had ever explored these areas. We were having a wonderful time hiking, but the goal was to bring a caribou back home to Seattle. We covered more terrain than the prior day, but returned to camp empty-handed again, only to learn that the fourth member of our group, Dave Allen, had shot his caribou just yards from the tents. David and I were becoming despondent and questioned our hunting strategy. “Don’t just do something, sit there!” I thought to myself after dinner at the 88 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

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campfire. “David, we are going about this all wrong. We are clearly not capable of chasing down a caribou across the tundra. As tedious as it may be for us, we need to find one good spot and wait for the caribou to come to us.” On our third day I perched myself on a ravine edge hidden in a blueberry thicket (very tasty blueberries, by the way). I didn’t move from that square yard for over seven hours.

MOST ADVENTURES ARE an exploration in space. But this day, for the first time, I had an adventure in time. I stayed still

and quiet while I watched the world pass me by. I watched the birds get ready for winter, I listened to the stream tell its story, and I felt the sun evaporate the recent shower off my back. Twice my heart skipped a beat as a large animal appeared at the stream edge, only for it to be a female caribou. Eventually, David and I packed up and began the long hike across the tundra back to camp. We were bemoaning yet another defeated day when David spotted it – a lone bull traversing through the scattered trees. We moved right to stay downwind and intersect his path.

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Relying on my hours all week of visualizing this moment, I dropped to one knee. I spotted his upper chest within the crosshairs, cleared all other thoughts, and pulled the trigger. I was now a hunter. Hunting animals has been an important part of mankind’s culture and nutrition for thousands of years. Until now, however, it had never been an intimate part of my life. In the Alaskan wilderness I was further from humanity than ever before, yet this adventure, which placed me directly in the circle of life, provided an incredible lesson in our shared history of gathering food. My time on that remote bend of the Charley River taught me a new kind of patience, a new kind of adventure, and a new sense of connection with the natural world around me. ASJ

The author displays his caribou, the culmination of a successful first hunt to Alaska. (DAVID JOHNSON)

Editor’s note: Erik Henne lives in Seattle. He has published a highlight video at vimeo.com/82020154, and additional pictures can be viewed on his website, erikhenne.com

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SEPTEMBER 2014

8/19/14 6:51 AM

A PATTERN IS DEVELOPING HERE ANALYZING YOUR SHOTGUNNING PROWESS

With the proliferation of quality shotgun ammunition available, one can almost always find a load that will pattern very well. (STEVE MEYER)

BY STEVE MEYER

here are plenty of reasons folks miss shots on flying game birds. Probably the most common cause is the shooter lifting their head off the stock as the shot is made. A common cause of this is a billed cap worn a bit too low, blocking the shooter’s vision when the cheek is lowered to the stock. Jerking the trigger in anticipation of recoil – in other words: flinching – is also a common culprit of the missed bird. Not getting a proper mount (the toolong buttstock hangs up on clothing) causes misses, and some nice bruising on the upper bicep. When folks speak of unexplained

misses these things are discussed, but there is another factor in misses that often goes ignored: Single-projectile shooting is referred to as a science, while shotgun shooting is considered an art.

THE ELEGANCE OF swinging a shotgun through the path of a flying bird and pressing the trigger at the precise moment required to hit it is an art. But there is a science to shotgun shooting: the pattern the shotgun throws with a given gun or load. When talking about missing and trying to sort out problems and the shooter is asked if they have patterned the shotgun, the response is often a blank stare, sometimes an “I was gonna,” but rarely a yes.

Shotguns are supposed to “shoot where you look.” The wingshooter isn’t lining up sights but looks over the barrel of the shotgun at the target. When trying to determine the shotgun’s point of impact for a given individual, the shooter looks at the target, mounts the gun and presses the trigger. Trying to “aim” the gun defeats the purpose of discovering where the gun shoots for you in the field. Most folks “sight” in their shotgun by shooting a can or some other stationary target 20 yards or so away. Most of the time the target will be hit and the shooter will be happy – at least until they cannot hit a flying target in the field. Most shooters blame themselves for the misses, and certainly that is the case a lot of the SEPTEMBER 2014

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time. But it’s not always the case, and that is where the process of patterning the gun comes in.

PATTERNING IS SHOOTING the shotgun at the center of a 30-inch circle target from 40 yards with the shotshell load and choke you plan to use in the field for a given species of game. Don’t make the mistake of shooting odd shells lying around to save the field loads. Much as with rifle ammunition, every shotgun shoots a given load different and you will not get an accurate depiction without shooting the load you will take hunting. Look at the target, mount the gun and press the trigger. The first couple of shots will determine if the shotgun does, in fact, shoot where you look. If the center of the spread of shot is the center of the target, the gun does shoot where you look. If it does not, there are fit issues that will have to be worked out and you will have to “aim” the shotgun to get the pattern centered. Patterning is a science and the only way to accurately access the way the load patterns is with center hits. Once you have the center hit figured out, look at the “pattern” the pellets show on the target. Are there areas

on the target large enough for a complete miss or only peripheral hits on the game you are hunting? Most game birds have a very small, 2- to 4-inch vital area of the body proper. Wings and head expand that some, but what you are looking for is numerous hits across the entire surface area the flying bird will present. The number of hits in the 30-inch circle are counted and compared to the number of pellets the load contains; a percentage is then assigned. A 1-ounce load of No. 6 lead shot contains approximately 225 pellets. A pellet count inside the 30-inch circle of 176 gives you a 78-percent pattern, which at 40 yards would be extremely good as long as the pattern is dispersed consistently throughout the circle. Some commercial patterning targets have lines that quarter the circle and make it easier to count pellets, and to determine if there are places that have few, if any, hits. Blank spots are referred to as “holes” in the pattern and are one common cause of misses. It is best to fire at least three rounds – five is better – for each load and choke you are patterning. By way of comparison, the following pellet counts for given loads help illustrate the issue at hand:

Don’t let a poorly patterning shotgun ruin an otherwise perfect shot when hunting a moving target like an upland bird. (STEVE MEYER)

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12-gauge No. 3 steel shot, 1¼-ounce, 3-inch magnum: 197 pellets 12-gauge BB steel shot, 1¼-ounce, 3-inch magnum: 90 pellets 12-gauge No. 6 lead shot, 11/8-ounce, 2¾-inch load: 253 pellets 12-gauge No. 4 lead shot, 11/8-ounce, 2¾-inch load: 152 pellets 20-gauge No. 3 steel shot, 1-ounce, 3-inch magnum load: 158 pellets 20-gauge No. 4 lead shot, ⅞-ounce, 2¾-inch load: 118 pellets

SOME SHOOTERS USE big pieces of card-

board for target material, and others buy the commercially made paper targets. Either way, it adds up to a lot of large targets to deal with. A decent target frame large enough to hold the targets (depending on which targets you choose, this can be a 36-by-36-inch frame or as large as 4 square feet) will have to be built unless you belong to a shooting range that has frames already constructed. Most, at least in my neck of the woods, do not, it seems. Commercial targets run around $8 for 10, but getting them to Alaska adds another $25, so they end up running around $3 each. I think the difficulty of getting cardboard large enough or buying targets and then finding a framework large enough, coupled with the real pain in the rear that goes along with putting them up is why many do not bother. Patterning a shotgun correctly is a fair amount of work. There is a way that saves some time and a lot of frustration trying to staple large paper targets to a frame or finding big pieces of cardboard suitable for the task. Assuming you have a place to put it (40 yards to shoot and a safe backstop), a patterning target made from a sheet of 1/8-inch steel 36 by 36 inches and mounted on a simple 2-by-4 frame is easy to build and makes patterning so much easier. The initial cost will run about $70, give or take depending on

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A simple frame is all that required for a steel patterning board. (STEVE MEYER)

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cost of the steel and four 2-by-4s where you live. Once constructed, the only thing you need is a 4-inch paint roller and a can of white paint. Shooting a flat surface of steel might seem a shooting faux pas if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve not been properly introduced to the process. Upright steel targets facing the shooter are used for practically every conceivable type of shooting these days. When the projectile hits, assuming the steel is of the appropriate thickness and hardness of steel, it simply breaks up and goes to the ground. That does not mean there are not some fragments that could come back at you. Steel shots require 10 yards minimum between the shooter and the steel target. Shooting from 40 yards with projectiles that lose what little velocity and energy they have rather quickly makes this a pretty safe practice. Of course, shooting glasses must be worn â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and should be regardless of the target material. A simple frame as pictured with this article works great and also allows the target to be portable. Two poles cemented into the ground would work fine to permanently bolt the steel plate in place. Once mounted, paint the face with several coats of white paint to build a base layer. Drawing quarter sections on the target is easily done with a sheetrock square. The circle is made with a marker on a 15-inch piece of string. Center the string on the target, stretch it out and draw the circle. I find a small paint roller works the best to cover pellet strikes quick while staying inside the lines of the drawn quarters, though a can of white spray paint is handy for quick sessions.

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A board ready for your practicing. Single-projectile shooting is referred to as a science, but shotgun shooting is considered an art. (STEVE MEYER)

Forty yards is the standard for patterning, but if your shooting is going to generally be closer, as in upland hunting or decoying ducks, then perhaps patterning at 30 yards makes more sense. Interchangeable choke tubes make managing patterns for a given load more manageable and allow fine-tuning for your particular wingshooting endeavor.

THERE IS AN aspect to patterning that is not often considered: We tend to focus on what is good and forget the rest. Patterns that are decent enough but have numerous stray hits on the periphery always leave a nagging doubt with a miss. Was it a clean miss? A good pattern without those flyers leads one to believe that when a bird doesn’t fall, you’ve simply missed. Those errant pellets in the pattern leave the question of did a pellet or two hit that bird? It’s a place I for one don’t like to be. The good news is that with modern chokes and modern ammunition, if you take the time to figure them out and choose the right combination for your wingshooting, when that big greenhead doesn’t drop at the shot, we can figure out why pretty easily. ASJ

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With a little research and effort big bulls like these can be found throughout most of Alaska. Hunters who plan to pursue the “big boys” will need to plan and be prepared for what the tundra and river will deliver. (PAUL D. ATKINS)

GETTING A BULLISH ATTITUDE PREPARING FOR A TROPHY MOOSE HUNT BY PAUL D. ATKINS

could hear the bull only moments before I could see him; he wasn’t a monster, but he was legal and respectable nonetheless. It was also the last day of our seven-day hunt and probably the last chance I would have at taking bull during the season. He didn’t seem to be in a hurry, but he was mad and getting him to stop in a spot where I could get a shot was the tricky part. Alaskan moose are very big animals; unless you have been up close to one, you may have no idea what I’m talking about. Big bulls can weigh close to 1,800 pounds and stand 7 feet tall at the shoulder. All that height magnifies their sheer mass – think a skeletal structure built like a tank. I’ll be the first to say that moose aren’t the most difficult game to hunt

in the world. In Alaska, it sometimes seems like they’re standing on every corner or behind every willow. If you think I’m kidding, just go to downtown Anchorage sometime. Even here in rural Alaska they aren’t that hard to find, but finding the right one, the glorified 60-plus-inch bull, may prove a little more difficult. When I first arrived in Alaska back in the 1990s, getting a moose with archery gear was my number one priority. Sure, everyone wants to shoot a caribou or two, but a moose, the largest member of the deer family, was the pinnacle of any trip to the tundra. It took me several years to figure it all out, but through a lot of trial and a lot of errors I learned a few things.

Where to go

Moose can be found in almost all of Alaska, from the Colville River on the Arctic Slope to the Unuk River in the southeast. There are some parts, however – Kodiak and many of the smaller islands – where moose do not exist. But

they are here throughout the rest of the state, and in pretty good numbers. If you’re thinking about a moose hunt, you probably need to start looking at one or more of the many river drainages that Alaska is known for. Water attracts moose, but food supply and female companionship is the key to finding big bulls. Places that have a high concentration of willow and birch, plus riverweeds and a female moose or two are prime locations. Rivers such as the Noatak and Kobuk in the northwest to the Kuskokwim and Yukon Deltas and down to the Kenai Peninsula all are great places to find the bull of your dreams. I have hunted them all and it would be hard for me to pick one particular area as all are excellent choices. But wherever you plan to hunt, don’t expect to find the new world record standing on the bank; you’ll have to work for it. Alaska’s rivers tend to go on forever and braid off in many directions, creating a lot of small pockets that a moose can hide in. Also, depending on SEPTEMBER 2014

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the area you’re in and how far you want to go from camp, the hunting can be endless. Big country and the long days of September can practically have you hunting 14 to 15 hours per day, with early morning and late evening being the best. Personally, I have found that if you get off the river and hunt the low-lying willows and the occasional “open” spots, you will have the best chance at finding a good bull, plus it can provide about as much excitement as a hunter can get. Watching a big bull stroll out at 10 to 15 yards is quite the experience.

Gear

After you’ve chosen your weapon, whether it’s a bow or rifle, it’s then time to choose the rest of your gear. With the high cost of flying these days and the ever-increasing cost of baggage, a hunter needs to choose his or her gear carefully. You will, of course, have a bow or rifle case; I suggest you find something big and as light as possible. Most cases can be stuffed with not only your bow or rifle, but can hold a lot more gear. With airlines charging more and more for baggage these days, a big case will not only save you money but allow you

to take extra gear that will be needed on the hunt. After choosing your weapon and accessories you will need to bring a good set of rain gear. I’ve hunted moose every September for the last 15 years, and on each and every one of those hunts it has rained. Your rain gear should not only be waterproofed but durable, comfortable, and, more importantly, allow you to move with no restrictions. I personally use Sitka gear, but Cabela’s Dry Plus and Russell APX work great as well. Fleece layering is another big plus, plus several pair of socks and some type of camp shoes are recommended. You will also need a good set of waders if you plan to hunt moose. River crossings are sometimes endless and will require something past your knees. Waders are not my favorite, but necessary; they don’t breathe, have very little cushion and, after a long day of hunting, become very uncomfortable. Your feet will feel like they have been beaten with a hammer and your socks soaked in blood. Believe me, nothing is better than putting on a dry pair of socks and a regular pair of shoes or boots at the end of the day. Through years of climbing into bush planes I’ve learned that dry bags are the

Getting out of river bottoms and climbing up hillocks or other high spots will allow you to better glass the dense willows and spruce thickets for bulls. (PAUL D. ATKINS)

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best bet for hauling the rest of your gear. Dry bags are tough and come in several sizes, plus they weigh practically nothing. Necessities, such as clothes, toiletries and game bags, for example, will fit nicely inside and stay dry outside the tent.

Strategies

A legal moose here in Alaska must have a minimum width of 50 inches or have four brow tines on one side. All moose look big, and sometimes it can be tough to determine on smaller bulls, but when a monster in the 60- to 70-inch range steps out, you will know it. I have tried many methods to hunt moose and have had some success with each, but it does take persistence. Using a good pair of binoculars and spotting scope, and then finding a high vantage point to glass from is probably your best bet. Once you’re in the air enroute to the area where you will be hunting you will need to make some decisions. The pilot will land where he can, but it’s been my experience to make a few passes and have him drop you off in an area that at least has a high point or a least a few hills. Moose are hard to see in the dense willow at eye level, but hills or rises in elevation will provide great places for getting a better view of the area and see what it really has to offer. Once you’re there and locate some moose, break out your optics to get a closer view. Another technique is to take off from camp using spot and stalk. As always, you will need to pay close attention to the wind; what moose lack in speed they make up in smell. Moose have huge noses that are good at smelling not only bears and wolves but hunters too. Bull moose are very responsive to calling, whether it’s from a commercial call or a homemade job like a funnel. The technique is very similar to using a whitetail doe grunt and trying to draw in big bucks. By mimicking a cow moose, big bulls will usually respond in some way when looking for a cow in heat. I’ve also rattled in bulls using nothing more than a boat paddle, but I have also used a small moose shed. When the rut is on bulls will respond to just about any noise. Hunters

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need to be careful as rut-crazed bulls can and will become very aggressive during the rut. Ideally you should move slow and take your time. This strategy, combined with glassing and a little calling, can be a very effective technique, especially during late September. Hearing a big bull come crashing through the willows to your call and then stepping into range is an unforgettable and sometimes intimidating experience.

Details to remember

The application period for drawing an Alaskan moose permit is in December. Applications can be done on the Internet. A person must first buy a hunting license, which can also be bought online for $85 and is still quite cheap compared with the cost of other nonresident licenses in the Lower 48. An applicant will only get one choice, so make sure you do your homework when it comes to choosing the area you want to hunt. Look at record books (if that is your

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A MOOSE TRIP TO REMEMBER My first moose encounter came many years ago on a river with a name that I could hardly pronounce. Our camp lay along the banks, with our tent tucked in amongst the willows for protection and camouflage. We cruised the river and looked for caribou, and around a corner stood an enormous bull. I was amazed at the sheer size of the animal and the amount of horn he carried on his head. He stood more than 6 feet at the shoulder and was massive! The bull just stood there and watched as three guys gazed at his enormity, all of us bereft of a moose tag. He seemed to know he had nothing to worry about and continued to eat. That bull is still very much etched in my mind. Since then I’ve taken several moose, some hunted intentionally and others a total surprise. They were pretty much a bonus. Most of these bulls weren’t that big by Alaska standards, but all were an adventure. My biggest bull to date is just 58 inches, but he was mine, and the hunt itself was worth the extra inches I might have acquired had I looked further. But it was the last day of our hunt and I couldn’t. It all started when we boated into an inlet that fed into a grassy field. The beautiful cool weather, combined with a slight breeze and minimal bugs, made searching for big game along the river ideal. The willows were deep yellow in color and the soft tundra was full of blueberries and bright-red cranberries. It was an awesome time. We knew the grass-covered field was an ideal place for moose, especially in the evenings when they decided to feed. Pulling on our waders we exited the boat and started our trek inland. We walked, or more like waded, a half mile and stopped to make a few cow calls. Time passed without a re-

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Most of Alaska is prime real estate for big moose. Places like this are ideal. You have water, cover and feed. Big moose love this stuff, but so do bears, so be careful. (RUTH CUSACK)

thing) to see where the big bulls are being killed, or it may be more beneficial to contact an area biologist through the Alaska Department of Fish & Game. They live in that area and know exactly what the moose populations are and the success ratios from years’ past. They can be contacted at adfg.alaska.gov. There are few outfits here in the state

that actually rent gear and will be happy to set you up with all the necessities that will make your hunt a success. Most of these can be found on the Internet as well. Also, you will need to hire yourself a transporter to get you to and from the field. Again, you will need to do your homework and find somebody with a lot of experience and a pilot that knows

sponse, so we ventured further into a small patch of low-lying willows. We then broke out the rattling “antler” and went to work. We had no more than finished this sequence when we heard him coming. Believe me, it’s a sound you won’t soon forget – brush popping, willows swaying and 1,200 pounds of something coming right towards you. It’s a bit nerve-racking, to say the least, especially with nothing but a bow in your hand. The big bull broke cover and finally stopped in front of us at 31 yards. Bowhunters have to make quick decisions and I did, even though the shot was a bit tricky. It took us until dark to pack him out and we were exhausted. The swampy area looked like a pond when we were done, but he was in the boat and we were on our way home. Moose venison is incredible and I knew my freezer would be full for the winter. It was a tremendous hunt, one that I’ll never forget. -PA

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Bowhunter Tyler Freel took this nice moose near Fairbanks with traditional gear. Bowhunting can be very rewarding when it comes to searching for moose. You never know what you’ll find around the next bend. (PAUL D. ATKINS)

the area. Remember your life is in their hands, both in the air and on the ground. Whomever you choose you will need to plan this far in advance, as the good ones tend to be booked early. Hunting Alaskan moose doesn’t re-

quire a guide. However, nonresidents will have to apply for a tag in December, with the drawing usually held in February. Residents can obtain a tag over the counter in most areas. Guided hunts are also available but can be quite expensive. Many hunters do the do-it-yourself route and go out on their own. In my opinion it is the only way to go. Seven to 10 days on the tundra with a bow or rifle in hand is the ultimate adventure, a true test of your hunting skills. But like all hunts in Alaska, it’s not for the weak-minded and can be tough, bordering on the extreme at times. Finding and taking that bull of a lifetime can and will be the highlight of the hunt, but getting 1,000 pounds of meat back to camp and then back home can be a different story. In addition, a hunter has to be ready for all that the great outdoors and a hunt like this has to offer. Whether it’s constant rain, mosquitoes, an upset bush pilot or the ever-constant threat

of bears, you have to be prepared and have the brains to get things done and in some cases survive. I would highly suggest you invest in a satellite phone and a good GPS. You never know what can happen, and the security they provide will make the hunt much more enjoyable. An Alaskan Yukon moose is on every hunter’s bucket list, as it was on mine. I still dream of the big boys and hope someday to find that mythical 70-plusinch monster. If you’re planning a moose hunt or dreaming of one, I would suggest doing it now. They’re out there, but just make sure you have a big pack and a strong back! ASJ Editor’s note: Paul Atkins is an outdoor writer from Kotzebue and a monthly contributor to Alaska Sporting Journal. He has written hundreds of articles on biggame hunting throughout North America and Africa. You can find him on Facebook and pauldatkins.com

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CHASING CRAFTY BILLIES ON KODIAK THE PHYSICAL AND MENTAL CHALLENGE OF GOAT HUNTING BY KRYSTIN BABLINSKAS

e boarded the 737 “combi” – a half-people/half-cargo workhorse used throughout Alaska – and took off from Anchorage International Airport bound for Kodiak City. We weren’t as excited as we were the day before, when we loaded the same plane and then were told to get off be-

cause our flight was cancelled due to high winds on Kodiak Island. Moving our trip back a day, negotiating our work schedules and a night of sleeping on the floor of a friend’s very warm apartment, we had a sense of déjà vu when the plane paused before backing out of the gate. But once we were in the air, the excitement set in. We were going mountain goat hunting!

ALASKA’S DRAW HUNT system is a sophisticated lottery. Applicants scour the species and the area, and then apply the year before for the following autumn’s hunt. We devote a special day to selecting hunts in November. The following February, like children poking presents under a Christmas tree, we eagerly await the results on the Alaska Department of Fish and Game website. There is a sense of relief when at least one of our names is posted. For this trip, Bixler McClure

The author surveys the landscape on Kodiak Island. The early days of the hunt featured grueling ascending and descending of the terrain with little contact. (BIXLER MCCLURE)

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pulled a mountain goat tag for the north road system on Kodiak Island. We touched down in Kodiak, winds still howling, but the weather was a cold, clear autumn day. With our Ruger .30-06 safely in its case and a slew of hunting gear at our disposal, we brought around our rental car and headed to Bixler’s uncle’s house. Having lived on Kodiak for numerous years, Uncle Mel knows the goat hunting scene inside and out. There is about a 7-percent chance of pulling a goat tag in this hunt. Based on the results of previous years, of the 50 who received the tag, only five were successful. We had our secret weapon: Uncle Mel.

AFTER SETTLING DOWN, Mel took us on

Just as its Sitka blacktails are introduced, so too are Kodiak’s mountain goats, though they tend to occupy higher, rockier ground than the deer.

a driving tour of the scant road system in the hunt area. He showed us a few access points to get into the high country. Mountain goats were introduced to Kodiak as a game species. Like the goats around our home base in Seward, they immediately set foot at the tops of

(KODIAK NWR, USFWS)

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peaks that day and saw nothing. During our trip we had seen ptarmigan and Sitka blacktail does (another introduced game species), and goats in impossible places to reach them. The bartender at the brewery who had served us beer every day after our climbs suggested places we had already been, as did other patrons. We returned to Mel’s house that night and dined on mountain goat curry. Perhaps if we consumed the animal we were trying to hunt, we’d have better luck.

Bixler McClure with his goat, which was quickly quartered and packed out in an area known for dangerous brown bears. (KRYSTIN BABLINSKAS)

IF YOU GO

mountains, favoring cliffs and scree piles. Though Kodiak doesn’t have the towering mountains that overlook Seward, the country is no easier to hunt. Much of the foliage is scrubby, the trails muddy, and there are the world’s largest brown bears to worry about. With Mel’s advice and four days to

hunt, we settled into a routine of arduous up-and-down climbing. In full hunting gear, this is no easy task and each day we were wiped out and spent the evening at the brewery in town formulating a strategy for the next day. By the end of day three, spirits were at an all-time low. We had climbed two

So you want to hunt mountain goat? It is no easy task. If you find yourself with a goat tag, here’s some advice to help make your hunt a successful one: Get into shape. Chances are the mountain goats you want are at the tops of hills. While you don’t need to run up and down mountains every day looking for goats, you do need to get to the top of at least one hill. Do some research. Mountain goat hunting varies area by area. Not all areas have marked access trails. Research your hunt before you go, or before you apply for a tag. Besides outlining permit opportunities, the Alaska Department of Fish & Game’s website, adfg.alaska.gov, profiles the state’s goat populations. Get a good pair of binoculars or spotting scope. Unless threatened, goats will generally graze in one spot for a while before moving on. You should be able to see them from the base of the mountain before you start climbing. Mountain goats are social. If you see one goat, chances are you will see more. Don’t abort a climb because there aren’t a cluster of goats in your immediate view. One goat is enough to give away the herd. Be patient and devote some time to your hunt. Goats do move around, so if you don’t see them on one peak immediately, come back in a few days. You might be surprised. –KB

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WE AWOKE THE next morning to one more full day of hunting remaining to harvest our elusive goat. There were no new trails for us to explore since we had tried them all the days before. We hopped in the rental car and took a drive over to Sheraton Peak, a trail that cuts straight up to a mountainous bowl. As we approached the trailhead, we couldn’t believe what we were seeing. Four mountain goats were grazing on the hillside below the bowl! These were the first goats we had seen in a reachable location. Bixler immediately sped the rental car to the nondescript trailhead. His adrenaline running, he went over the game plan with me. “We’ll hike to the bowl. I’ll go up the hillside and pick out a goat. You stay down and watch me. Oh, and look out for brown bears. Make sure you have the shotgun with you.” We hadn’t seen any brown bears, so I wasn’t worried. Every now and then during our hikes we would come across a footprint a foot and a half long, but that was all we ever saw of the elusive Kodiak brown bear. Quietly, he hiked up the brushy trail to the base of Sheraton. The brush turned to tundra as we approached the bowl. We could see the four goats – two nannies each with a kid – and a large billy high up on a cliff. The hunt allows for the taking of nannies, but not those with kids. Bixler would need to pursue the billy, or assume there were more goats on the other side of the mountain. With our full camouflage on, we crawled into the bowl trying to remain

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ALASKAN GOAT WITH A PERSIAN TWIST

ogan josh, or – roughly – “red heat,” is traditionally made with lamb and is of Persian descent from India’s Kashmir region. Of course, the real thing is probably amazing using a variety of hard-to-find-in-America spices, but this recipe is delicious regardless – especially with the addition of our wild mountain goat. Naan goes great with this dish. Naan is a type of flatbread with a delicious chewy texture that is found throughout India and Southeast Asia. We highly recommend you give this a try because it adds to the overall dish. You need to start the naan about four hours before the rogan josh and you can cook the naan while the dish is cooking on the stove. We also recommend you get some basmati rice and make that alongside too.

Naan bread

Ingredients 2 tablespoons warm water 1 teaspoon white sugar 1 (.25 ounces) package dry active yeast ¼ cup warm milk ¼ cup plain yogurt, room temperature (we use our homemade yogurt) 4 tablespoons melted butter or ghee 3 cups all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon baking powder Directions Combine warm water, yeast, and sugar in a bowl. Set aside until it foams, about 5 to 10 minutes. Blend in warm milk, yogurt, and melted butter or ghee to yeast mixture. In a separate large bowl, mix flour, salt, and baking powder. Add in yeast mixture. Mix and add water or flour until the dough doesn’t stick to the bowl. Knead until smooth and elastic. Coat dough in oil and place in lightly oiled bowl. Allow to rise for fourish hours. While the dough is rising, you can begin prep on the rogan josh dish described below. It should time out that you pre116 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

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heat the oven while the dish is simmering on the stove. Preheat the oven to its highest setting (ours goes to 500 degrees Fahrenheit). Also find a big cookie sheet or make sure you have a pizza stone already in the oven for this. Punch dough down and kneed it briefly, then divide into six pieces and shape into balls. Oil them and let them rest for about 10 to 15 minutes. Roll and stretch them into artisan naan shapes. If you have limited ovenware, you can shape them to cook a few at once. Coat pizza stone and/or cookie sheet with oil. Place naan on pan and cook for four to five minutes and until bread is puffy with brown spots. Remove all cooked naan bread from oven. Turn up to broil and broil each naan until charcoal spots appear. The rogan josh dish is relatively easy to prepare, but may contain some spices not readily available in your area. If you live in a big city it’s not a problem. If you live out in the sticks like us, you will need to be creative. We’ve recommended some substitutions if you can’t find the exact spices.

Mountain Goat Rogan Josh

Ingredients ¼ cup canola oil, butter, or ghee About 2 pounds of goat, any cut (we used trimmings and delicious backstrap) 1 small head of cauliflower, chopped Salt for taste 2 onions, chopped 2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger 2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon Madras curry powder (we couldn’t find Madras curry here, so we used a blend of red and yellow curry powders) 1 teaspoon turmeric ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper 2 bay leaves 1 14-ounce can tomato puree 1 cup plain yogurt (we used homemade)

2 cups of water 1 teaspoon garam masala (this is a spice blend that has been hard to find for us, but it is essentially black pepper, mace, cardamom, nutmeg, coriander, cinnamon, and cloves. If you have most of these, add a pinch to the pot when appropriate) Cilantro for garnish Basmati rice and naan for serving

Directions

In a Dutch oven heat oil, butter, or ghee. Season the goat with salt and cook over high heat until browned, about 12 minutes. When browned, remove with slotted spoon and transfer to a plate. Add onions to the Dutch oven and cook over medium heat until browned, about four minutes. Add ginger, curry, garlic, turmeric, cayenne, cauliflower, and bay leaves and cook for two minutes. Add tomato, yogurt, and water and bring to a boil. Add more salt. Return goat to Dutch oven along with any juices. Cover partially and simmer over low heat until goat is tender, about one hour. Stir in garam masala (or spice mixture) and cook for five minutes. Garnish with cilantro and serve with rice and naan. As always, feel free to scale up the spice amounts or use a different kind of meat. -KB

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quiet. Bixler pulled out binoculars and determined that the nannies were off limits. He whispered the new plan: Bixler would take the .30-06 and bipod and climb the large scree pile to the top of the mountain. There he would pursue the billy from above. Since all of a mountain goat’s predators come from below, approaching from above the goat would be the best bet. I would stay below with the packs, armed with a shotgun with slugs and move base camp to the top of a knoll in the direct center of the bowl. It was game on for a mountain goat. From the knoll, I watched Bixler climb the scree pile to the top of the mountain. He then walked along the spine and disappeared over the other side. I grabbed my binoculars to watch the progress.

MEANWHILE, THE GOATS started to get

agitated. I figured Bixler was on the pursuit and that was the cause. I scanned the hillsides waiting to hear from Bixler when I noticed two large rocks some-

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what out of place. By closer inspection with my binoculars, I determined they were two brown bears, a sow and cub. “Oh, no,” I thought. I had two packs and a shotgun, but no Bixler. Thankfully, the bears didn’t notice me or the goats frantically climbing the cliffs. By the time I got my nerves together, Bixler appeared beaming at the top of the mountain. “I got one!” he shouted, sending the bears running around the corner. “Bring the packs up!” I grabbed both packs and started the climb up the steep hillside, taking a less dangerous route than the scree pile. Bixler was a ball of energy, and being a mountain runner, he ran down to meet me to relay the ordeal and grab his pack. While I was spotting the bears, Bixler had reached the top of the hill, which was much more rounded than we originally thought. He walked along and saw a goat, a big nanny with no kids and sitting down on a rock. The nanny didn’t seem to mind his presence. Bixler then had to raise the bipod to

its maximum height to take a downward shot. He shot the goat which, with its last breath, threw itself down a steep hillside headed towards a cliff. “No!” was Bixler’s first thought. He fired another shot to make sure it was down. The goat came to rest at the top of a cliff, its white fur a bloody mess. Through his excitement, I warned him of the bears. He practically stopped in his tracks. “Where?” I pointed to the spot where I saw them grazing on the hillside. “We need to get butchering and get out of here,” Bixler said as he sped uphill, feasting on adrenaline. I just stood there watching him run uphill before I forced my legs to step forward, one by one. I arrived to find the goat exactly where Bixler explained it would be – on the backside of the mountain, just above a cliff. I stopped to admire the stocky figure and white fur. Quickly, we started the butchering process.

THE LARGE NANNY had beautiful white fur

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and an impressive fat layer under the skin. The meat looked wonderful. The tag allows for the taking of only the meat, but we wanted the hide as well for taxidermy purposes. Mel has several goat skin blankets, and I remarked at how wonderful a goat skin would look on our couch. After an hour and a half of butchering, we packed the hide, skull, and one quarter in my bag, and the rest in Bixler’s pack. In total, each one of us would be carrying over 100 pounds up and down on our backs. I helped Bixler into his pack and he helped put on mine. The packs stank like a barnyard, and mine had the goat’s head sticking out of it. If there were any interested bears within 100 miles, I’m sure they could smell us and then be confused by what they were seeing. Our legs burned during the brief uphill part. Heading down into the bowl to reach the trail was more of a con-

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trolled fall. The trail was much more difficult carrying a pack. Towards the trailhead, I ended up in a quagmire up to my knees. Thankfully, we reached the rental car unharmed. Noting that the rental agreement had a special clause stating “Clean up any dead animals you put in the trunk,” we put down a tarp. Excited and exhausted, we first headed to the local Walmart to buy coolers to take the goat back on the plane. Kodiak is home to a United States Coast Guard base, and a newly stationed member of the Coast Guard watched us as we thumbed through coolers. He came over, probably smelling us first and sporting with a new set of camo in hand, and asked us about our hunt. We told him the whole story and he stood there misty-eyed and murmured, “I can’t wait to get a goat tag.” In the parking lot of the store, we repacked the goat and talked with interested onlookers. We returned to the brewery for a beer and drank a round of congratulations from the bartender. Uncle Mel was excited when we returned to his house and helped us hang the meat and pack it the following morning. We arrived back at the airport, still tired and still excited, noting the unhappy faces from the unsuccessful hunters checking in on our flight. We heard a snicker in the corner; a new TSA agent had to inspect our cooler with our goat hide, while the senior agents supervised. A few hours later we were back in Seward, butchering the goat under the aurora borealis, talking about the meals to come and future hunts. Soon another February is bound to roll around, and we can’t wait to see what tags we draw for next year. ASJ Editor’s note: Author Krystin Bablinskas and photographer Bixler McClure live in Seward. Read about more of their Alaskan adventures at alaskagraphy.wordpress.com.

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Alaska’s hunter education instructors provide years of experience in the field, helping young hunters learn what’s needed to become safe, ethical sportsmen. (TOM REALE)

SCHOOL IS IN SESSION A LOOK AT ALASKA’S HUNTER EDUCATION PROGRAM

BY TOM REALE here’s no doubt that hunter education classes are a wise investment for a society to make. Cue the National Shooting Sports Foundation’s website. “Firearm-related fatalities in the U.S. have been decreasing consistently since record keeping began in 1903, and dramatically in the last 20 years,” NSSF (nssf.org) reports. While we tend to think of the “good old days” as being a time when people were a lot more familiar with guns, the rate of hunting accidents with firearms has gone from 12.6 accidents per 100,000 hunters in 1966 to 2.2 in 2012.

That’s an amazing statistic and one that should be more widely known. With that end in mind, the state of Alaska has developed a sophisticated and comprehensive training program. This is no small task when you take into account the vast size of the state and the large number of hunters, both resident and visitors, who go afield every year. Add in the remoteness and inaccessibility of a large segment of the population and you’ve got what are often referred to as issues. However, the Alaska Department of Fish and Game uses a combination of paid staff and a cadre of volunteer instructors across the state to get the word out to hunters from offices in Anchorage, Fairbanks and Juneau to cover Southcentral, the Interior and Southeast.

VILLAGE EDUCATION Most of the classes are taught at department facilities in the population centers,

but there are also a significant and growing number of students being taught in villages off the road system. While “hub” cities off the road system such as Bethel, Nome and Kotzebue usually have enough interested citizens to teach hunter ed to the locals, remote villages present more of a problem. When villages have enough kids to make up a decent-sized class and there is nobody in town to teach, ADFG will fly in instructors for an ad hoc session. However, this is a pretty costly adventure in times of shrinking budgets. In response, the department is looking for more ways to cultivate local instructors. Recently two of the Anchorage staff certified a graduating class of village public safety officers, or VPSOs, at the Trooper Academy in Sitka. This puts 18 more instructors in the field, and gives the VPSOs a chance to become familiar with village kids in a neutral setting. And in New Stuyahok, near Dilling-

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Students listen in on gun safety courses. Natives in smaller Alaskan villages in some cases don’t have enough instructors to fulfill teaching duties. (TOM REALE)

ham, the town elders were conducting a class for village kids on their Native culture, language and traditions, and included a hunter ed class at the same time to introduce the program’s concepts into the local hunting traditions. There’s also an attempt to use schoolteachers in the villages to get the required

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certification so that they too can pass along this valuable and at times life-saving instruction to bush communities.

Lots of classes For the most recent year available, from July 2013 through June 2014, ADFG offered 85 bowhunter classes, 26 muzzle-

loader classes and 160 hunter ed classes for a total of 271 classes. In that time, 474 active instructors donated 4,949 hours to instruct 3,500 students. All told, the current Hunter Information and Training Program administered by the department has certified 3,133 muzzleloader students, 19,303 archery hunters and 51,470 students in basic hunter ed. This is an impressive total given the state’s low overall population and the challenges presented by the local geography and climate. And not every hunter is required to have certification in order to be licensed. The current law states that if you were born after Jan. 1, 1986 you must have, “Successfully completed a certified basic hunter education course or hunt under the direct immediate supervision of a licensed hunter who is either 16 years old or older and has successfully completed a certified Hunter Education course or born on or before January 1, 1986.” This stipulation doesn’t just pertain to

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those who visit the state from the Lower 48. “The hunter ed requirements apply to resident and nonresidents alike. They don’t have to show a certification card when they purchase a license since the folks selling licenses over the counters aren’t well-versed,” says Ginamaria Smith, the program coordinator for the HIT program. “The only time that a person would need to show the certification card would be in the field when a trooper stopped them or if it is specific for a permit.” Certifications from other states are accepted as proof of proficiency by nonresidents, so don’t leave home without yours.

Before you go There are a few more wrinkles to consider before heading into the field for your hunt. If you’re bowhunting in an area restricted to archery only, such as some of the drawing and registration permit hunts, you must have proof of certifica-

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tion. “(Hunters) must carry their IBEP or equivalent department-approved certification card on them while archery hunting in the field, and must show their card to peace officers and department employees upon request,” says the state. Alaska recognizes NBEF and IBEP cards from any state or Canadian province-sponsored “bowhunter education specific” courses, but not combination courses. In addition, beginning on July 1, 2016, all big-game bowhunters will be required to have completed a state-approved certification course. Certification is also required of all hunters in certain areas near population centers. So if you’re coming from out of state and intend to get licensed here, make sure you’ve got all your ducks in a row before you get here. Classes aren’t given on a regular basis, and trying to get a last-minute requirement fulfilled probably won’t happen. If you’ll be taking the class in-state, there are options when it comes to tak-

ing a basic class (we’ll leave archery and muzzleloading for another time). The department offers three ways to get legal: traditional, independent study and online courses. The traditional course is a multiday course given over several days and is usually offered by groups like the Boy Scouts or church groups, or is offered in schools as an elective course. Independent study involves studying and filling out a workbook, then attending classroom sessions for course review, going with an instructor over a field course where shoot/don’t shoot scenarios are discussed, as are range-finding exercises, silhouette spotting, obstacle and boat scenarios, etc. Students then qualify on the rifle range with scoped .22s under supervision. This course is given over two evenings or one full-day session, which usually takes between six and eight hours. The online course shortens classroom time by giving the material and practice tests online. After taking an online exam

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One of the important courses made available to novice hunters focuses on gun safety in vehicles like boats, which are needed for hunts on bodies of water. (TOM REALE)

to qualify, the student attends a field day where the field course and shooting proficiency tests are administered. Information regarding upcoming classes is available on the ADF&G website at adfg.alaska.gov/index.cfm?adfg=huntered.main. But be forewarned that waiting until August or September to try and get into a class for your au-

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tumn hunt definitely has a low likelihood for success.

The curriculum Course content is quite wide-ranging and comprehensive. It covers everything from firearm familiarity and basic safety to shooting and hunting skills, wildlife conservation and laws, hunting ethics,

and survival and preparation skills. The intent isn’t to turn a neophyte into a skilled marksman or master hunter, but rather to introduce the basic concepts of how to be a responsible, safe and ethical hunter in the field. For youngsters who don’t have a family hunting tradition, it’s a lot to take in. For that reason, the department recommends that students be at least 10 years old. While younger kids have taken and passed the course, the subject matter and volume of data can be a challenge for some. In addition to the three hunter ed courses the department conducts, there are also a wide range of classes and clinics that fall under the classification of “hunter education.” This includes such topics as bear skinning and hunting techniques; sheep judging and aging; bear bait clinics; Becoming an Outdoors Woman (BOW), Women in the Outdoors, and Women on Target programs. There are youth programs such as archery in the schools, youth shotgun and

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rimfire leagues, youth conservation camps, and the Youth Hunter Education Challenge (YHEC) program. Gina Smith has noticed that it’s not always the straight-A students who do well in the classes. “I’ve had some good experiences where kids who didn’t necessarily do real well in school have done very well in the hunter ed classes,” she says. “They seem to take to the subject matter very well and are able to be successful because they relate to the class.” In addition to the class work, the kids have to be able to handle the firearms being studied and to shoot the rifles supplied; bringing your own guns to the class is strictly forbidden. Smith’s had other interesting experiences while teaching as well. In Anchorage, most of the classes are taught at the Rabbit Creek Shooting Park that borders the Anchorage Coastal Wildlife Refuge. The field course goes through the woods adjacent to the refuge, and she had a moose wander through while

Teaching moments

The state of Alaska takes hunting safety very seriously, and teaching students about shooting accuracy is one of several programs designed to help eliminate accidents. Since the 1960s, nationwide firearms’ accidents are significantly decreased. (TOM REALE)

she was trying to teach. “We had to retreat to the building until she went away, but we were able to include her in our shoot/don’t shoot and range-finding discussions,” she says. “It was a very Alaskan experience.” She’s also seen muskrats, ducks and snipe on the trail while teaching, but “no bears, yet.

As an instructor for about the past 10 years, I’ve also had my share of interesting and sometimes challenging experiences, although nothing quite as dramatic as a moose wandering through my class. Every class is a unique mix of student ages, approaches, attitudes, and background. Most of the students are young, but we also get quite a few very experienced hunters who need the certification to participate in certain hunts or for traveling Outside (Yeah, I know - Alaskans traveling to the Lower 48 to go hunting? Crazy, but it happens). We also get a nice mix of boys and girls, of men and women, so each gathering presents a new challenge. But it’s always fun and interesting, so if you have a bit of free time to devote to an excellent cause, I urge you to look into becoming a hunter ed instructor. It’s time well spent, and an excellent way to improve and add on to our valuable hunting tradition. ASJ

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Some of the tools of the trapping trade, which has seen plenty of opposition, but the author contends trapping is a key part of the Alaskan way of life. (STEVE MEYER)

LEARNING THE TRAPPING TRADE A GUIDE TO SETTING ALASKAN FUR TRAPS BY STEVE MEYER

icking myself up, the sight of blood swirling in the water flowing across the ice where I had just made a hole for a water set was the first indication I might have a real problem. Starting the day before dawn I was running my relatively short, 3-mile trap line. Heading out on snowshoes with trapping essentials – hand axe, several body-grip traps, bailing wire, wire cutters – I was prepared to make some new sets along the way. I was hoping to find a likely spot that would funnel otters traveling under the ice into a narrower section, where a couple of size 330 body-grip traps set side by side would catch one. The set would also work for beavers that frequented the area. After I had the hole chopped and collected stabilizing wood to anchor the traps in the stream, I started compressing the strong springs of the 330 with a setting tool. Next thing I knew I was laying on the ice.

Furs are a beautiful home decoration, among their many other uses, but the author points out that trappers should use extreme caution while afield in an Alaskan winter. (STEVE MEYER)

DESPITE A LOT of bad press (some deserved, some not), trapping is still very much a part of the rural lifestyle in Alaska. Fluctuating fur market prices drive some of the participation, but the market is not always the driving force for folks who trap. Many, myself included, trap for personal use; it’s another reason to be outdoors and to involve youth in traditional use of natural resources. Many young folks learn some great life lessons in trapping while providing themselves a SEPTEMBER 2014

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The author with a trapped mink. It’s important to follow unwritten rules in trapping such as not setting on someone else’s line. (STEVE MEYER)

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source of income. Trapping is also one of the tools used to regulate predators such as coyotes and wolves in Alaska. Getting started trapping in Alaska requires a few prerequisites, with a place to trap being right up there on the list. A large share of public lands in Alaska is open to trapping. There are some specifics regarding certain areas such as wildlife refuges that may require more of the trapper than other public lands. An example is the Kenai National Wildlife Refuge, which requires those who trap on the refuge to attend a trapping class, be issued a permit and some other specific requirements. Within that there may be trap-checking requirements, which are not prescribed by state law. Perhaps more importantly, there are the unwritten rules of trapping that include things like not setting on someone else’s line. While it may be public land, common courtesy dictates to go somewhere else if another trapper is already there. Don’t set snares,

large foothold traps or body grips (connibears) in areas that may be frequented by neighborhood dogs or along busy public trails.

OBVIOUSLY SOME TRAPS or snares will be needed to get on your way. Connibears and snares, when set properly, kill the animal fairly quickly; leg holds do not. The frequency you will be able to check traps should be a consideration. An animal left alive for days in a leg-hold trap is one of the reasons trappers receive bad press. Consider what you will be trapping and select the size of the trap appropriate to the animal. Mink and muskrat can be trapped successfully with size 110 to 120 connibears, or No. 1.5 jump traps. Otters can be trapped with 220 connibears and No. 3 jump trap, but pound for pound, otters are one of the toughest and most tenacious of the furbearers. A 280 or 330 connibear or a No. 5 jump trap is probably the better selection. A beginning trapper doesn’t need

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a lot of traps to give it a try. Be warned, though, that first catch may inspire a flurry of trap buying!

TRANSPORTING TRAPS AND gear on the

line requires some sort of large, open compartment backpack or, as many have found, a sled appropriate to the load. Modern-day trappers often use snowmachines to run their line. A large line of 20 to 50 miles requires some form of transportation that is expedient. A few fortunate trappers still use dog sleds. But a small line can be cared for on snowshoes. Just limit the size of the line to the time you have. Prospective Alaska trappers should be aware of the possibility of trap-line sabotage or theft. Particularly in areas that are close to roads/trails there are people and groups out there who will, if they find your trapline, deliberately destroy your sets. These are folks opposed to trapping, and they are the primary reason many trappers do not mark their lines.

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GOLD PROSPECTING

Wolverines are the most sought-after, but difficult-to-trap Alaskan animals. Spotting their tracks is far easier than finding the ornery critters. (STEVE MEYER)

Others will find your line and run it, taking any furbearers you have caught. It isn’t all that common, but it does happen, and if it does, report it to local authorities. The further away from civilization you run your line, the less chance of having this problem. Trappers in Alaska are plagued with weather conditions that range from well above freezing to well below zero. Heavy snow loads coupled with these temperature changes result in overflow near virtually all water bodies. For trappers, this means a set you make that is in flowing water one day may be frozen in the next. A set made along a cut bank of a lake may be covered up and frozen in with overflow. There have been times it has been so severe I didn’t recover the traps until late spring. Trap-line maintenance is a never-ending process with the changing weather and should also be considered when determining the size of line you run.

KNOWING IF THERE are, in fact, the fur-

bearers you want to trap in a given area is sort of important. Beavers and muskrats are fairly easy: beaver lodges and muskrat pushups, mounds of vegetation piled up in the water with a small “house” inside, are fairly obvious. Freshly chewed birch in the area and stock piles of saplings in the lake near a beaver lodge are evidence of recent activity and residence in the lodge. On the shores of lakes and streams piles of freshwater clam or mollusk shells SEPTEMBER 2014

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are signs of muskrat activity. It’s best to scout areas before they freeze, as ice and snow hide many of the signs. For those furbearers that travel on land, tracks are the obvious indicator. What to do with a furbearer once you catch one might seem obvious, but the trapper should be prepared to skin and flesh the hide and stretch it in preparation for market or for tanning if keeping the hide for personal use. Ideally, the animal is skinned immediately after catching, though time and circumstances may dictate otherwise. When kept frozen whole, the hide will be fine for a while, but the sooner it can be taken care of, the better. Long-term freezing dries the hide and fur, and some deterioration can be expected. The how-to aspects of skinning and stretching and all of the many variations of sets a trapper can make would fill volumes, much more than a magazine article can possibly address in one form. Fortunately, there is a wealth of information available at the click of

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your computer mouse. Check the trapping section of the Alaska Department of Fish and Game (adfg.alaska.gov/index.cfm?adfg=trapping.main), and the Alaska Trappers Manual is available from the Alaska Trappers Association (P.O. Box 82177, Fairbanks, AK 99708). They are great places to start. The Manual is a comprehensive work that is considered the “bible” by many Alaska trappers.

ONCE MY HEAD cleared, the pain in my mouth signaled where the blood was coming from. With a slightly numb tongue, I felt empty spaces where there should have been teeth and it seemed like my lower jaw was split. As is so often the case with serious injury, the pain wasn’t that bad, and there wasn’t much to be done except tough it out and finish checking the line. By the time I finished checking my trapline, for once I was glad they were empty. The throbbing in my face was starting to get my attention.

A look in the mirror showed a nasty hamburger-resembling lower lip; teeth were missing from the top and bottom. A visit to the emergency room revealed I had not busted my jaw, but it would be over a year and $14,000 worth of reconstructive dental work before I had a decent smile again (so much for a profit on trapping that year). I will never know for sure what happened; the best I can figure is the setting tool slipped as the springs were near full compression. I had set hundreds of 330 connibears in the past and had a great respect for what they can do. It was just one of those things that can happen when least expected. Trapping in Alaska brings elements of danger and it behooves any trapper to be prepared to deal with injuries, falling through ice, hypothermia and the myriad of other setbacks that can happen. Know your limitations and be cautious, whether you are a seasoned trapper or just starting out. ASJ

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GOLD PROSPECTING

JACK WADE GOLD

Welcome to Alaska, her golden history and our life. My husband and I own and operate Jack Wade Gold in Tok, Alaska. We both feel we were born 100 years too late, but we have been able to experience the end of the great northern gold rushes. We would like to share some of the gold rush history with you, as well as some of our own experiences in the goldfields of interior Alaska. Let me begin by telling you that my husband, Sam Achman, came to Fairbanks in the spring of 1952 from Minnesota, going to work for the old Fairbanks Exploration Co. In 1971 he leased some mining claims in the Circle Mining District north of Fairbanks, eventually purchasing the 20+ claims. My name is Dianne Jenkins-Achman, and I arrived in Alaska in 1966 from Oregon. I headed north to Fairbanks in the mid-1970s and it was here I met, and fell in love with, my very own gold miner, Singinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Sam Achman and his Rainbow Mine. I had always been a history buff, but boy, did I have a lot to learn about gold, gold mining, Alaskan history and Alaskan bush living.

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By 1979 I had taken over The Golden Web, Samâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s small nugget jewelry manufacturing company that sold nugget jewelry and raw gold to retail jewelry stores around the state, and the following year I got my Gemologist degree. The summer of 1981 we started a trial mining operation on Jack Wade Creek, northeast of Chicken, Alaska. Running both operations was a real feat, as Jack Wade Creek was 450 miles from our Circle Mining District claims, and 300 miles from our home in Fairbanks. In the spring of 1982 we decided to put the operation on Harrison Creek on hold, and just work Jack Wade Creek. The spring of 1984 we were driving 310 miles one way from Fairbanks to the mine. We decided to give up our home in town and move to Tok, a small community on the Alaska Highway, only 80 miles from the operation. This made it much easier and quicker to get supplies to the creek. It was then that I became interested in the possibility of a nugget jewelry store in Tok and getting more involved in the

tourism industry. At Jack Wade Gold, you will find only natural gold nuggets, mined in the historic 40-Mile Mining District of Interior Alaska. They are just as they come from the stream, unique and individual. No two are exactly alike, and we do not pound, cut, file, or shape them in any way. Their gold content will average 21-22 Kt., and we try very hard to match them up when making earrings and multi-nugget necklaces and bracelets. While the styles are similar, all pendants, necklaces, earrings, bracelets, tie tacs and rings will vary in weight, shape, size, texture and price. I make all of our jewelry in our retail store, and I do a great deal of custom work for clients all over the world. Please feel free to contact us at jwgold@ aptalaska.net, or give us a phone call at 907883-5887, and Sam or I will be more than happy to answer questions about Alaska, mining, or to help with a jewelry design. Visit www.jackwadegold.com for more information.

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NO SYMPATHY CLEANING UP YOUR MESS BY STEVE MEYER

hen I drove in behind the truck parked in the pullout off a rural gravel road, there were several old computer monitors and a television set out in the grass. Two young men, one holding a rifle resembling an AR-15, the other a 12-gauge pump shotgun, were clearly about to shoot the glass “targets.” Both turned and watched as I got out of my truck and took a couple of photographs. “What are you doing? Why are you taking pictures?” one asked. For years I had been periodically cleaning up these places where people with guns and seeming shortness of functioning brain cells congregated. They pack all sorts of household appliances, bottles, cans and cardboard boxes to these places, shoot them to bits and drive away. I hadn’t ever caught anyone red-handed, as I usually was out doing this work long before these folks got out of bed. But I knew someday it would happen and knew how I was going to deal with them. I told them I was taking pictures of them and their truck license plate so I could find out where they lived. Once I had cleaned up their mess, I would know where to dump it. “Can’t you see we have guns?” said the lad holding the shotgun. “This is public property, (so) we can shoot here,” his cohort added. I told them that yes, I could see they had guns, that we all had guns

and that was nice (they were unable to see the .45 in its inside-the-pants holster behind my hip). “What, are you some sort of cop? What gives you the right to harass us?” As a matter of fact, I told them, I am some sort of cop, but that wasn’t what this was about. “What this is about, is people like you trashing places like this.” I told them I didn’t think they were stupid, as I didn’t know them and wasn’t going to assume that. But I suggested they might be ignorant and that everyone suffers from that from time to time, but if they would give me a minute I could explain. They looked a bit sheepish but

nodded in agreement. “Public land belongs to everyone,” I said. “It’s sort of like a community front yard. Most folks wouldn’t be happy if someone threw some computers and TVs in their yard and shot them to bits. “How about folks who stop along here to let their dog run and are rewarded with their dog returning with cut feet from the glass shards you just created?” I asked if they were hunters; both nodded they were. I explained to these two young fellows the kind of image portrayed to the nonhunting public and the power of perception. I asked if they thought someone driving by and seeing this would be support-

(STEVE MEYER)

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ive of issues important to hunting. The men were not bad people; they just hadn’t thought much about what they were doing. After all, everyone else was doing it. They stored their guns and spent the next hour helping me clean up the place.

THE AREA SPOKEN of is a rural section of land owned by native corporations and various state agencies. There are no homes in the area. Over the years, several sites along this road had become favorite areas for people to shoot. For many years I drove this road to and from work – not as a shortcut but because it was rural and I would see grouse, rabbits, hawks, owls, coyotes, moose, bears, and even wolves along the way. There are few things that can better brighten a person’s day than seeing a wolf in its element on the way to work. I finally just couldn’t stand it anymore and I started cleaning it up.

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There were loads of every description of home appliance, garbage and three full 33-gallon trash bags worth of shotshell casings. Christine Cunningham and I worked most of the summer of 2009 cleaning up these areas. Some folks would stop and thank us, and once someone stopped and helped for an hour or so. Sometimes people would stop to shoot at two spots owned by the native corporations that had been unable to curtail the trashing of their property. I would explain the property rights, and while some were resistant, most immediately were apologetic.

CLEANING UP THE trash on this stretch

of rural countryside has become just one of those things we do. And every year the mess has decreased and the people I contact seem to stop. Not looking through rose-colored glasses and totally understanding they may just go someplace else, the feeling I

get from most is that is not the case. What I have found most of the time is people do this because “everyone else does it,” and no one has told them different. Once I explained it to them, people were typically apologetic and seemed embarrassed by their behavior. I set out on this mission because these areas looked so awful, and the association with hunters and shooters makes all of us look bad. It is really astonishing to find the number of people who seemed genuinely surprised that their behavior was offensive. In the cold light of today’s world hunters and shooters can ill-afford bad publicity. I hope those of you who know of similar circumstance might take a moment to educate those who are oblivious. Remember, never allow the muzzle of your firearm to cover anything you are not willing to destroy! Good hunting. ASJ

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GOLD PROSPECTING THE MINER’S CACHE I swirled my first gold pan at the age of 10 and was amazed there was still gold in the streams of Northern California – just like the olden days! But I didn’t really get the “gold bug” until marrying my sweet brideto-be, Stacy. We went all over to get my fix. In 1978 we started selling gold pans and small tools to local miners at a flea market. We gleaned every tidbit we could gather from old-timers, and by the mid-’80s, were on our way to supporting a family of four. These days, thanks to the support of our customers, our brickand-mortar retail business, The Miner’s Cache, has survived and grown through difficult times and despite California’s environment of excessive restrictions. The Miner’s Cache maintains a fully stocked line of dredges and highbankers, trommels, metal detectors and associated supplies to meet the needs of professional and novice miners alike. We continue to expand our own mining operations to the north. Whether mining in the interior of Alaska, or in the ocean, it is one of the last great frontiers. The Miner’s Cache has been built on the sharing of information. Our goal is to assist you, whether you’re just getting started or are a seasoned professional, to find the information and equipment to make your adventure a memorable one. See www.theminerscache.com for more info.

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One of the keys to preparing a bear for an ideal taxidermist’s mount is to not allow the skin to be exposed to the sun for too long. Efficiency is critical once the animal is down. (TOM REALE)

CREATING A HUNTER’S TROPHY A TAXIDERMIST’S TIPS FOR PRESERVING YOUR HARVEST FOR MOUNTING BY LARRY GOLDEN

t’s September in Alaska: frosty mornings, crisp blue sky and the tundra ablaze with crimson, birch and aspen quivering with gold. The call of the wild is answered each year by many big-game hunters, anxious to escape the rat race for the annual chase. Most hunters have visions of getting that trophy of a life-

time into their crosshairs. However, once that shot is fired and the beast is down, what to do with it becomes the big question. As a lifelong hunter as well as a professional taxidermist for 40-plus years, I have encountered all sorts of blunders made by excited hunters in the field. Many a great trophy has been destroyed, in many instances due to lack of education or proper care by

the hunter. With that in mind, here are some of the basic points trophy hunters should know if they plan to call on a taxidermist. Have the thought in the back of your mind, “Trophy mount on the wall” before pulling the trigger. Try for the heart on long shots, keeping the bullet hole and blood from the neck and head area, particularly if a shoulder mount is in your plans. This is especially imSEPTEMBER 2014

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As soon as your moose is free of flesh and fat, the author recommends rubbing in generous amounts of table salt – as much as 15 to 20 pounds for a bull – and resalt as needed until the moose is free of fat and red meat. (BRIAN LULL)

portant when hunting white sheep and goats. Blood is very difficult to remove from Dall sheep hair. Educate yourself in advance on proper skinning methods. Most taxidermists are very glad to share advice prior to your hunt. Never cut the throat to bleed out the animal. When it is field dressed, the blood will freely flow. Make sure all cuts are far enough back to ensure enough cape for a full shoulder mount. This means cutting well behind the shoulder, including the front leg skin down to the knees. Be sure and leave brisket skin between the legs plenty long enough. A small, sharp knife is much better than a big hunting knife for caping. Use care around antler burrs; try to avoid making nicks and cuts. Ears and eyes require special attention. Cut as close as possible to the head. The eyelids should be cut close to the eye socket. When you reach the front corner of the eye, slow down; the skin tends to grow close to the bone

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and often forms a deep pocket. Try not to cut a hole here. Lips should be cut close to the gums, leaving plenty of inner-lip skin on the cape. Nostrils should be also cut close to the skull, leaving plenty of nose cartilage on skin. If the trophy is to be a full body mount, carefully cut up the back side of all legs beginning at the ankles. The incisions on the rear leg should meet at the base of the tail. The front leg cuts should cross the crest after reaching the elbows. When making initial cuts, use a small sharp blade. Insert at the starting point and rip a long, smooth cut from the inside. The goal is to avoid cutting the hair or making a jagged cut. Now that the skin is off, you will want to turn your attention to the meat. Alaska law says that the meat from most game animals must be saved for human consumption (brown bears are generally excluded from this rule). Always consult Alaska Department of Fish & Game (adfg.alaska.gov) for hunting regula-

tions. Some areas require the bone to be left in the quarters, or the ribs not to be deboned. Using cloth game bags, keeping the meat cool and allowing air circulation all contribute to great table fare. As a general rule, keep the skin out of the sun and as cool as possible, just as you would the meat. If the weather is below 40 degrees, don’t worry about salt or even turning ears or lips. Once free of all flesh and fat, rub in generous amounts of table salt – 15 to 20 pounds should do for the average bear or moose. If possible, drape it over a log or rocks and allow to drain for a few hours. Resalt, roll it up and put inside a game bag for transport. Do not allow it to dry out hard in the sun. But do not put salt on skin until it is completely fleshed and free of fat or red meat. Bear fat does not allow the salt to penetrate to the hide where it can preserve it. Any red meat that’s still on the skin when salt is applied turns to jerky; it’s very hard to remove later. When given the chance, don’t hes-

itate to be creative. Ask your taxidermist to show you exciting pedestal mounts. Ask to see the many new habitat options that are now popular. Turn your trophy into a work or art and put it back into the environment you first saw it in. Choose your taxidermist carefully. Avoid “prize shopping.” Some of the most costly mistakes made by hunters are skimping on quality to preserve an animal they have already spent thousands of dollars on hunting and harvesting. You want to see that lifelike sparkle in the eyes and be able to relive the breeze in your face when you first raised your rifle. That’s not possible if your trophy grins down at you with bug eyes, like something from a freak show. Your taxidermist will help you get the best mount possible. ASJ Editor’s note: Larry Golden owns and operates About Alaska Wildlife Art in Palmer. Contact him at (907) 745-2180 or check out aboutalaskawildlifeart.com.

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LOSING YOUR WAY IN THE FOG BY CHRISTINE CUNNINGHAM

t had been three hours and we still hadn’t seen any ducks. My hunting partner, the diehard, hadn’t lost hope. I glanced over as he contentedly poured himself another lid of coffee. I was not as content. I had an idea of shooting a pair of mallards for a roast, and since I’d been living on Mountain Dew and M&Ms all day, my visions of fireplaces and roast duck had given way to a warm car and the cookie in the glove box. “I can’t stand it anymore,” I said. A fog had settled on the flats, making our only view the pond in front of us. The only excitement was the flock of snipe occasionally mistaken for teal. The puzzled look on my partner’s face meant he wasn’t anywhere close to being done. He pulled up his sleeve and looked at his watch. One hour and 49 minutes until last light. He pointed out that the decoys had never looked better. “If I were a duck, I would be landing here.” If you were a duck, I thought. Warner Brothers’ cartoon images filled my mind of the starving and conniving Daffy making a meal out of Bugs. “I’m going in,” I said. I’d been duck hunting in some form or other since opening day. It had been a week in the same partially dried-out gear. I was dirty, I was tired and I was hungry. “Don’t get mad if I shoot a duck,” he called after me as I departed the blind. I hesitated. It is always the moment after I give up that something happens. It’s not Murphy’s Law, but a close relative – if something can go right, it will go right, just moments after you‘ve left. The flats we hunted were on the south side of the Kenai River on its final approach to the Cook Inlet. To those 158 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL

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passing by on the road, the flats look like what they are – a hundred acres of marsh muck with canneries and mountains floating in the distance. They were an oasis within city limits between the road and the river mouth, and the idea of getting lost on the flats never occurred to me. As I marched along, I got a second wind. A pond 60 yards ahead of me had ripples on the water. Still pessimistic, I figured it was probably just snipe, or maybe salmon fry that got trapped in the ponds at high tide. But I waited and watched through the fog. I started walking again when a pair of mallards launched out of the pond and landed in another one nearby. When their heads were out of view, I crept closer, bent in my best impersonation of Elmer Fudd. When they were in view, I froze; they were still about 50 yards away. But they got up again and sat down on another pond further away. I repeated the same tactic and so did they, flying when I got within 50 yards. The last time they’d flown further. I couldn’t see where they went in the fog. The ponds around me didn’t look familiar. Not like ponds I’d ever seen on the flats before. An eerie dread settled over me when I realized I had no idea where I was and enveloped in fog. I couldn’t tell

the direction of the road and hesitated crossing a tidal slough. If I got stuck in the mud without anyone knowing where I was, I could be that girl who got lost and died in the middle of civilization. I would be a Darwin Award. Not sure if death or humiliation was a worse fate, avoidance of both motivated me to try to find my way back to the road. Mind you, I would be without the help of a path, in a heavy fog, at twilight, lacking a cell phone, and wearing wetlands camo. An unpleasant cold sweat came over me and I circled the same unfamiliar pond on three occasions. I’m that guy, I thought. It was well past dark when I imagined the headlines, my funeral procession, and the painful eulogy given by my hunting partner about how I was a fine duck hunter who would have wanted to go this way. Then the parking lot appeared in front of me, just 60 yards away. I could see the lights from two police cars through the fog. I could hear someone mention an officer was bringing the drug dog. I didn’t just feel stupid, I felt like The Fugitive. A police officer gave me a one word salutation: “GPS.” Someone else mentioned I could have fired a couple of shots to give my location. Apparently, I thought, it would also have helped if I had illicit drugs for the drug dog to find as well. There are a few ways, outside of technical advances, to gauge direction, such as marking your path, picking out landmarks or determining the wind direction and staying consistent to avoid walking in circles. I knew that. There is also the general admonishment against chasing ducks in the fog or rabbits down holes. And if my sole provision is a dayold chocolate chip cookie, I would thereafter remember not to leave it in the glove box. ASJ

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