For
By Miranda Mazariegos
Dum
mie
s
inside The basics
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The places
17
The food
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The people
41
The author
53
Bibliography
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All pictures used in this publication are from the public domain, I do not own any of the rights.
To Donald Trump, and to all the people who think of Latin America as being an extension of Mexico. To all those who’ve asked if Guatemala is in Africa (that’s Ghana), and to those who have wondered whether it’s a town in Mexico (that would be Guadalajara). To anyone who’s ever confused the country with the prison (it’s Guantanamo Bay, and that’s in Cuba) and to that one girl who asked me whether it was a food (honey, that’s guacamole). May this booklet show you a side of a Third World country the media ignores, and may it give you a sense of wanderlust for places worthy of your bucket list. May it open your appetite for foods that you would’ve never tried otherwise, and may it inspire you to learn from hard-working, determined individuals whom the mainstream media overlook. May this booklet teach you, if anything, that ignorance is not always bliss.
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THE
BASICS
6
THE
LOCATION Otherwise known at The Land of Eternal Spring, Guatemala sits relatively close to the Equator, at the southern tip of Mexico and bordering with Belize, Honduras and El Salvador. Guatemala means “land of many trees,” and although the main city is one of the most developed and most populous in all of Central America, the highlands of the country live up to their name: Guatemala is known for its vast rainforests, steep volcanoes, breathtaking lakes and ancient Mayan cities. With an estimated population of 15.8 illion people, it is the most populous state in Central America. Guatemala has 22 departments, which are then divided into 334 municipalities. The department of Guatemala is host to the capital, Guatemala City, which has a population of approximately 4.5 million (as of the 2013 census). Other important departments include Alta Verapaz, Huehuetenango, Zacapa, Quetzaltenango, and Petén, among others. Guatemala has access to two oceans, the Pacific on West and the Atlantic on the East, favoring exports and imports as an important part of the economy.
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THE
HISTORY The country was colonized by Spain during the 16th century, but gained its independence on September 15th, 1821 and became the Federal Republic of Central America, which dissolved into individual countries by 1841. Dictator Manuel Estrada Cabrera ran the country from 1898 to 1920, until the national assembly jailed him for corruption. The next important President was Jorge Ubico, who served from 1931 to 1944, until he was overthrown by a group of left-wing students and professionals, and leaders Juan José Arévalo and Jacobo Arbenz Guzmán, who then instituted a social and political reform that strengthened the peasantry at the expense of big landowners (like the U.S. owned United Fruit Company). In 1954, a USA-backed military coup led by Coronel Carlos Castillo Armas toppled the government and sparked a civil war that lasted 36 years and killed 200,000 citizens. Peace negotiations were signed in 1996 between the government and the guerillas, effectively ending the civil war and granting pardon for the rebels.
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THE HARSH
REALITY
Although this book is meant to portray another side of the violent country many see in the media, it would be incomplete without a proper account of Guatemala’s harsh reality. A country riddled with poverty, illiteracy and violence, it ranks amongst the highest, most dangerous countries in the world. The country’s 36-year civil war that started in 1960 killed about 200,000 people and left a legacy of violence that is still alive today. A common saying among many Guatemalans is that life is worth nothing, for theft and armed robbery are common and an assailant can take a life over money, a car, or one of the most common valuables: a cell phone. In 2014, the United States Bureau of Diplomatic Security reported an average of 96 murders per week, and the average murder rate as 39.9 per 100,000 inhabitants. Drug trade and government corruption are also common, as they are in any other Latin American country. However, tourists are mostly able to complete their tours safely and return back home with something off their bucket list.
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THE
DEMOGRAPHICS As of July 2015, the World Fact Book reported almost 15 million Guatemalans in the country, with a population growth rate of 1.82%. Roughly half of the country’s population is Roman Catholic, 40% Protestant and nearly 1% who follow Mayan Spirituality. The constitution separates the church and the state, but guarantees religious freedom for everyone. The official language is Spanish, but there are 21 Mayan languages spoken throughout the various departments (especially in the rural areas). According to The World Fact book, almost 60% of the population is mestizo and European, and the rest are of different indigenous descents. The unemployment rate of people aged 15-24 is about 7.5%, ranking Guatemala 117th in the world. However, Business Insider ranked it third in “most positive” countries in 2014. Guatemala is characterized by the happiness, vitality and enthusiasm of its people. Often laid back, yet always hard working, Guatemalans live in such humility that they’ve learnt to enjoy the smallest things in life.
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THE CURRENT
NEWS
2015 was an important year for Guatemalan politics. In April, an illegal operation labeled “La Línea,” was uncovered by the CICIG (an international committee mandated by the UN to fight against corruption). At the head of the operation were the President, Otto Perez Molina, and the Vice President, Roxanna Baldetti, who were linked to organized crime and taking illegal bribes. Tired from years of blatant corruption, Guatemalans revolted in a peaceful demonstration that brought over 100,000 people to the streets, marching for their resignation. In May 2015, the Vice President stepped down from power, which allowed the jury to take her immunity and she was sent to jail on August 21, 2015. On August 27, a hundred thousand Guatemalans met once again to protest against the President, who constantly refused to leave his position of power. Cornered and pressured by the public, the President stepped down from power on September 3rd, and also stripped of his immunity, was taken to jail only days after. Guatemalans now hope this to be the start of a new, corruption-free era for the country.
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THE
PLACES
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LA
ANTIGUA Founded in the early 16th century, Antigua was the former capital city of Guatemala. Built 1,500 meters above sea level, the city was destroyed in 1773 by an earthquake that rocked the country. After this disaster, authorities relocated the capital city to a safer location, in a peaceable valley known as the Valle de la Ermita. One of the most important landmarks in the city is the Santa Catalina Arch, built in the 17th century to connect the Santa Catalina convent to a school, allowing nuns to pass through it without having to go on the street. With cobblestone streets and historic monuments at every turn, the city is an outdoor Spanish colonial history museum. Due to its rich Spanish culture and baroque architecture, legal protection was established for the city in 1944 and designated as UNESCO World Heritage site in 1979. Only an hour away from the capital, Antigua is a popular destination for tourists given its tranquility and safety.
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LAGO DE
ATITLAN Referred to as “the closest thing to Eden on Earth” by Lonely Planet Guide and “the most magnificent spectacle we ever saw,” by 19th-century traveler John L Stephens, Lake Atitlán is one of the most visited landmarks in Guatemala. The word Atitlán translates from the Mayan Nahuatl tongue to “at the water.” The deepest lake in Central America, it has a total depth of about 1,120 feet, and it is about a mile above sea level. The lake is known for its natural beauty, surrounded by indian villages and the three dormant volcanoes that encircle it. The lake itself is the result of volcanic activity that occurred over 85,000 years ago. When visiting, tourists enjoy kayaking in the lake, hiking the mountains or visiting the surrounding villages. With Mayan culture predominant around the lakeside communities, tourists enjoy the colors of the traditional clothing, the vast array of food options and the friendliness of the Mayan people. Atitlán’s serene ambiance and picturesque landscapes makes for a perfect weekend getaway.
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RUINAS DE
TIKAL
Located in the northern Petén region of Guatemala, Tikal was a major Mayan city between 300 and 850 CE. Tikal was known to the Mayas as Mutul, and it’s one of the biggest Mayan cities in Mesoamerica. The city’s prosperity was based on its natural resources: cedar wood, flint, maize, and fertile swamp areas. The city consists of nine different plazas and courts that are connected by ramps and causeways that hold over 3,000 structures. Today, Tikal, which translates to “at the waterhole,” is one of the largest archaeological sites in Central America, and is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Center. The city is a relic of the art and culture of the Maya and contrasts with the magnificent nature that surrounds it. Found in the depths of the rain forest, vTikal will find you listening to howler monkeys swinging on the branches above you, watching exotic birds fly overhead and climbing to the top of the Mayan structures.
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VOLCAN
PACAYA At an elevation of 2,552 meters, Pacaya lies about 30 kilometers southwest of Guatemala City. The volcano is part of the Central American Volcanic Arch, a chain of volcanoes that stretches from the northwest to the southeast Pacific coast of Central America. It has been one of Central America’s most active volcanoes over the last 500 years. Approximately 23,000 years ago, the Pacaya erupted for the first time. It remained dormant after that, until it erupted again in 1965 and hasn’t stopped since. In May 2010, the eruption was so expansive, it caused volcanic sand to rain over the capital city for three days, shutting down the International airport and affecting three other departments. One of the highlights of climbing the Pacaya is roasting marshmallows above the smoldering rivulets of lava that still stream from its crater.
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SEMUC
CHAMPEY Located in the department of Alta Verapaz, Semuc Champey is famous for its 300-meterlong natural limestone bridge, under which passes the Cahabón River. Upon crossing the bridge you’ll find a series of turquoise pools that are popular swimming attractions for tourists. Although getting to Semuc Champey requires a bumpy 30-minute ride into the national park, it is still one of the top attractions in Guatemala. After entering the national park, a 45-minute hike will leave you at the top of the cliffs, where you can look below to see the limestone formation. As you hike back down, you can see the blue-green pools that have formed over the top of the limestone, some deep enough for people to swim in. Perfect for adventurous explorers, Semuc Champey holds hidden gems – such as little caves that are only accessible by swimming to them. Close to the river you can also find the Lanquín caves, which are a 15-kilometer-long network of caves with an underground river that runs through them.
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THE
FOOD
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TAMALES Made of starchy, corn-based dough, tamales are the No.1 typical dish in Guatemala, often enjoyed during the holiday season. Although tamales are common in all of Mesoamerica, they are prepared differently in every country. In Guatemala, tamales are wrapped in plantain leaves, and made of corn. Guatemala has a wide variety of tamales, ranging from sweet tamales with fruit, to chicken tamales with vegetables. The most popular tamales, especially enjoyed during the Christmas season, are called tamales colorados, which contain chicken or pork filling and tomato-based sauce. Although the preparation for tamales is toilsome and timeconsuming, it doesn’t stop Guatemalans from enjoying them during the year, for they make a great meal, breakfast, lunch or dinner!
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CHUCHITOS The word “chuchitos” translates from Guatemalan slang as “small dogs,” although the dish has nothing to do with canines. The name derives from its original name of takamales, invented by the cakchiqueles, one of the main ethnic groups of the country. Chuchitos are very popular, made with the same starchy, corn-based dough used in tamales, but knead into a firmer, more compact consistency. Chuchitos are wrapped in dried cornhusks called tuzas. Normally served for lunch or dinner, chuchitos are very common in the highlands, and are best served with a simple tomato sauce and a sprinkle of salty fresh cheese from the department of Zacapa.
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ELOTES LOCOS Although you’ve probably had corn on the cob before, you’ve probably never seasoned it like Guatemala’s Elote Loco, which literally means “Crazy Corn on the Cob.” Also very popular in Mexico and other Central American countries, Elotes Locos are commonly enjoyed in the village fairs, and you can always get one from street vendors in public squares. It’s also the easiest recipe to prepare at home: After boiling the corn, you slather it with mayonnaise, ketchup, mustard and Parmesan cheese, and other seasonings such as salt, pepper or hot sauce.
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FIAMBRE Fiambre is only eaten once a year in Guatemala, and it’s on November 1, in celebration of the Day of the Dead. This dish combines different cold cuts and cheeses and assorted vegetables in a sweet vinegar broth, and although it may not seem appetizing on paper (or pictures), it takes one taste for you to fall in love with it and wait for it eagerly every year. Fiambre can have over 50 ingredients, from sausages and cold cuts, to baby corn and onions, to cheeses, olives and sometimes even Brussels sprouts. However, every family makes a different version of it, as everyone has their own “grandmother’s recipe” for it. The tradition dates back to the custom of taking food to the cemetery to honor the dead, and then sharing and mixing with that of other families, creating this wonderful casserole.
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RELLENITOS Rellenitos are one of the best desserts found in Guatemalan cuisine. The name derives from the verb, “to fill,� and describes a small plantain dumpling filled with sweet black beans, and later fried. Ingredients include black beans, cinnamon, sugar, canola oil, plantains and cinnamon sticks. Commonly served with sour cream and sprinkled with sugar, this is perhaps not the healthiest way to enjoy a plantain, but definitely the best one.
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THE
PEOPLE
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MIGUEL ANGEL
ASTURIAS Miguel Angel Asturias was a famous poet, novelist, journalist, diplomat and playwright. He studied anthropology and linguistics in Paris, and while there, he associated with the Surrealist movement and later introduced a lot of its style into Latin American literature, something that has caused critics to pin him as an important precursor of the Latin American Boom of the 1960s and 70s. It was while in Paris that he wrote his famous novel El SeĂąor Presidente (The President), about a spiteful dictator that dooms his people. Because of the nature of the novel and its political implications, Asturias was unable to bring it to Guatemala when he moved back in 1933, and it remained unpublished for 13 years. Another of his famous books is Hombres de MaĂz (Men of Maize), one that defends the Mayan culture. The beauty of his literature lies in the way he blends the Mayan and European influences and how it portrays the moral aspirations of Guatemalans. He was awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1967, and died only six years later in Madrid, Spain.
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RIGOBERTA
MENCHU Menchú grew up in a poor indian family who suffered from poverty and racial discrimination. Both her parents were tortured and murdered by the military, and her siblings joined the guerrilla during the Guatemalan Civil War (1960-1996). Instead, she started a campaign that peacefully fought and promoted for the rights of Guatemalan indigenous people. In 1981, she was exiled and flew to Mexico, where she published her autobiography in 1983. She proceeded to travel the world spreading her message and eventually was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize in 1992. In 1999, Menchú filed a complaint to have members of Guatemalan politics and military be tried in Spanish courts for acts of war. Seven years later, Spain called for extradition of seven former members of Guatemalan’s government on charges of genocide and torture. Menchú is now an UNESCO Goodwill Ambassador and ran for President of Guatemala in both 2007 and 2011. She continues to dedicate her life to advocating for the rights of the indigenous in Guatemala.
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RICARDO
ARJONA Some say the best way to insult Guatemalans is by telling them Arjona is from Mexico. Growing up in Guatemala’s capital city, Arjona began his artistic career at the young age of 12. He released his first album, Déjame Decir Que Te Amo (“Let Me Tell You I Love You”), in 1985, when he was just 21 years old. In 2010, he released Poquita Ropa (“Little Clothing”), an album that holds the famous song “Mi País” (“My Country”), whose lyrics tell the nostalgic story of having to leave Guatemala in search for life in another country. With more than 20 million albums sold, Arjona is one of the most successful Latin American artists of all time. Best known for his lyrics on love, culture and politics, he has received a total of 24 awards and 77 nominations, including nine nominations for the Billboard Latin Music Awards, a Grammy Award for Best Latin Pop Album (2007) and a Latin Grammy Award for Best Male Pop Vocal Album (2007).
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LUIS
VON AHN Von Ahn graduated with a full scholarship from the American School of Guatemala’s Advanced High School Program in 1996. He went on to Duke University, where he graduated suma cum laude with a B.S. in mathematics in 2000, and then got a Ph.D. from Carnegie Mellon University in 2005. Soon after, he founded the company reCAPTCHA, a system that establishes that a computer is human to protect websites from bots. In 2009, he sold the company to Google, and that same year he was chosen as “person of the year” by Siglo Ventiuno, one of the largest newspapers in Guatemala. Von Ahn is also the co-founder and CEO of Duolingo, a language-learning application that won Apple’s Application of the Year in 2013, and known as one of the pioneers of crowdsourcing. He has since been named one of the 50 Best Brains in Science by Discover Magazine and MIT’s Technology Review’s TR35: Young Innovators under 35 (among other titles). Von Ahn is now motivated improve education in Guatemala.
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ERICK
BARRONDO Barrondo began his athletic accomplishments by competing in long-distance running events, following in the steps of his parents. However, an injury in his left knee sidetracked him for some time, which is when he was introduced to speed walking as a form of recovery. Although many of his running aspirations were crushed during that time, Barrondo pursued speed walking to stay in shape. When he realized his potential, he hired Rigoberto Medina, a Cuban trainer who had worked with Salvadorean gold medalist Cristina López. In 2011, he classified for the Olympic games in London by competing in the 20km race of the Athletics Championship in Dublin. On August 4th, 2012, he won the silver medal in Men’s 20km Racewalk; the first Olympic Medal in the history of the country. Barrondo hopes to become a symbol of hope and inspiration for Guatemalan youth, claiming he would be the happiest person on earth if people in Guatemala put aside their guns and instead grabbed a pair of running shoes.
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Miranda Mazariegos is a student majoring in Journalism and Narrative Studies at the University of Southern California. After graduating from the American School of Guatemala in 2013, she started her college career at Boston University, where she met some of her greatest friends. However, after freezing that first northeast winter, she followed her dream of living in Los Angeles by transferring to USC, where she is now halfway through her junior year. Inspired by both Shonda Rhimes and Brandon Stanton, Miranda hopes to someday use the power of her words to make a positive impact in her country. She enjoys running, reading, traveling around the world, taking road trips with her friends, and exploring Los Angeles.
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Bibliography 1. “Antigua Guatemala.” United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization. N.p., n.d. Web. 12 Dec. 2015. <http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/65>. 2. Barron, Carlos. “Erick Barrondo, el héroe del atletismo guatemalteco.” Adrenalina360 [Guatemala] 14 July 2014: n. pag. Print. 3. Felipe, Oscar. “Érick Barrondo, un poco de amor y de convivencia.” Prensa Libre [Guatemala] 4 Oct. 2015: n. pag. Print. 4. Griswold, Alison. “How Luis Von Ahn Turned Countless Hours Of Mindless Activity Into Something Valuable.” Business Insider 13 Mar. 2014: n. pag. Print. 5. “Guatemala.” Central Intelligence Agency: The World Factbook. N.p., n.d. Web. 12 Dec. 2015. <https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/geos/gt.html>. 6. “Guatemala.” Nations Enyclopedia. N.p., n.d. Web. 12 Dec. 2015. 7. <http://www.nationsencyclopedia.com/economies/Americas/ Guatemala.html>. 8. “Guatemalan Rellenitos.” Foodologie. N.p., 22 May 2010. Web. 12 Dec. 2015. <http://foodologie.com/ 2010/05/22/guatemalan-rellenitos/>. 9. “Guatemala 2014 Crime and Safety Report.” United States Department of State Bureau of Diplomatic Safety. N.p., n.d. Web. 12 Dec. 2015. <https://www.osac.gov/pages/ ContentReportDetails.aspx?cid=15656>. 10. “History of Guatemala.” History World. N.p., n.d. Web. 12 Dec. 2015. <http://www.historyworld.net/wrldhis/PlainTextHistories. asp?historyid=ac1>. 11. Karsten, Matthew. “Swimming In Limestone Pools At Semuc Champey.” The Expert Vagabond. N.p., n.d. Web. 12 Dec. 2015. <http://expertvagabond.com/semuc-champey/>.
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12. “Lake Atitlan.” Lake Atitlan. N.p., n.d. Web. 12 Dec. 2015. <http://www.atitlan.com/ index.php>. 13. “Lake Atitlán.” WikiTravel. N.p., n.d. Web. 12 Dec. 2015. <http://wikitravel.org/en/ Lake_Atitlán>. 14. “Lonely Planet.” Semuc Champey. N.p., n.d. Web. 12 Dec. 2015. <http://www.lonelyplanet.com/ guatemala/semuc-champeyaround/sights/lakes-rivers-waterfalls/semuc-champey>. 15. “Miguel Angel Asturias - Biographical”. Nobelprize.org. Nobel Media AB 2014. Web. 13 Dec 2015. http://www.nobelprize.org/ nobel_prizes/literature/laureates/1967/asturias-bio.html 16. “Pacaya Volcano.” Volcano Discovery. N.p., n.d. Web. 12 Dec. 2015. <http://www.volcanodiscovery.com/pacaya.html>. 17. “Recetas Para Hacer Chuchitos.” Mundo Chapin. N.p., n.d. Web. 12 Dec. 2015. 18. <http://mundochapin.com/2012/03/receta-para-hacer-los-chuchitos/4756/>. 19. “Ricardo Arjona.” Biografías y Vidas. N.p., n.d. Web. 12 Dec. 2015. 20. <http://www.biografiasyvidas.com/biografia/a/arjona_ricardo. htm>. 21. “Rigoberta Menchú Tum - Biographical”. Nobelprize.org. Nobel Media AB 2014. Web. 12 Dec 2015. http://www.nobelprize.org/ nobel_prizes/peace/laureates/1992/tum-bio.html 22. “Rigoberta Menchu Tum - Biography in Brief.” Fundación Rigoberta Menchu Tum. N.p., n.d. Web. 12 Dec. 23. 2015. <http://frmt.org/en/quienesrigobertamenchutum.html>. 24. “Tikal National Park.” United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization. N.p., n.d. Web. 12 Dec. 2015. <http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/64>. 25. Torres, Gabriela. “How a peaceful protest changed a violent country.” BBC Mundo 27 May 2015: n. pag. Print.
I was confused the first time someone asked me why I was white. Thinking Guatemala
was in Africa, they couldn’t explain my blonde hair and green eyes. Every Guatemalan I know living abroad has a story like this one. From “Do you live in trees?” to “Is this your first time in an elevator?” we’ve accumulated a plethora of questions that are so unexpected, they’re hard to answer with a straight face. Understandably, a small, third world country in Central America is hardly anyone’s priority, but like Donny Miller once said, “In the age of information, ignorance is a choice.” So, choose wisely! Here’s a more positive, more real, side of Guatemala, one that is constantly clouded with news of crime, violence and corruption. Hopefully, it will expose the vibrancy and beauty of one of the most unique countries in the world.
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The Lan
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al Spr n r e t E f o