Cover: Lily is wearing clothes from One Eleven
An advertising product of the
Fall Fashion 2016
missoulanews.com
Missoula Independent
3
The trail head
A
by Chris LAtray
sk any random passerby on the street to name 10 local clothing retailers in Missoula and The Trail Head might not make the list. Owner Todd Frank is well aware of his store being perceived on the “fringe.” “Before these fashion insert things started happening, no one even came and talked to us,” Frank says. “Yet I think we are a pretty significant retailer of high quality clothing in the marketplace. It struck me that clearly the broader marketplace doesn’t understand what we’re doing.” What The Trail Head does is sell clothes—and a lot of them. Yes, the store made its name as a retailer of outdoor gear, but over the years its focus changed as the outdoor industry itself changed. “We started out as a gear store because that’s what we knew and that’s what we did and that’s what we sold,” Frank says. “Over time the companies that we did business with recognized that people needed to wear clothing first when they were doing the activities that they were doing, and secondly, that they wanted to wear that kind of clothing in everyday life. Because it was more durable, it fit better, it was higher quality and it lasted longer.” The Trail Head has ridden the ups and
6
Missoula Independent
downs of the downtown Missoula retail environment since 1974. Frank has owned the store since May 2000, though he worked as a manager before purchasing it. Its flagship location is nestled in the heart of downtown, on Front Street, just more than a block away from Higgins Avenue and the farmers market.
Over the last 16 years, Frank’s business has adapted with customer expectations. Many of the durable, lightweight performance fabrics and eco-conscious practices for manufacturing got their start in the outdoor industry, where products had to be light and durable, but also incredibly functional. It was a no-brainer to expect demands for those fabrics from more traditional, fashion forward
Fall Fashion 2016
customers across the apparel industry. “We come to the apparel business from a quality/function standpoint more than we come from a, say, ‘What’s the cute color this year?’ position,” Frank says. “But it has evolved. Not only does it have to work really well and be made of really durable fabrics and be a good value, but hey, guess what, it also has to look good now too because customers are demanding more.” The Trail Head has also changed with its local presence. Frank opened a second location inside Southgate Mall because he felt the products he was offering, including lines from brands like Patagonia, Prana, Nau and others, could more than compete with the national chains from a quality and durability standpoint, and at competitive prices. Never forget, though, that The Trail Head remains a small, locally owned business, with its heart and flagship location solidly downtown. Frank has seen many businesses come and go, but it seems those that stick are figuring a few things out. “What’s really happened,” Frank says, “is people who want to do business in downtown Missoula, and want to stay in business in downtown Missoula, recognize that we’re all in this together, and realize that there’s room for each of us to do our own thing.” Even those businesses on the fringe.
The Trail Head owner Todd Frank and clothing buyer Kimberly Baker
olive + Iron by Chris LAtray
T
he first thing customers might notice about Olive + Iron is the beauty of the space. Located at 806 W. Spruce, next to Draught Works Brewery, the building features tall brick walls, high ceilings with exposed beams, gorgeous hardwood floors and wide pools of natural light. It’s so inviting you’ll possibly want to live there. Olive + Iron owner Mandy Burns first viewed the space in late summer of 2013. “We were having a beer next door,” she says, “and I peeked in the window and they were just using this for storage. I said, ‘Something needs to go in there!’” Burns opened Olive + Iron in December of the same year. She had a lifelong love for fashion, but had never actually worked in it. She just thought operating a boutique would be fun—and it has been. “It’s been a constant learning Olive + experience for me,” she says. “I’m way more tied down than I ever thought I’d be, but I love my three employees, and I love my customers. As much as I love clothes and fashion, it’s really the customers that make it most enjoyable.” When the store first opened, Burns wasn’t
8
Missoula Independent
sure she had a grasp of her target customer, or how to budget for them. The store moved a lot of inventory in and out that didn’t sell. Over time, though, she found her stride and Olive + Iron began to find its niche among a steady flow of regulars. Missoula being Missoula, with
Iron owner Mandy Burns
so much overlap among stores, it’s still difficult to define her typical customer, but Burns believes they mostly mimic her own tastes. “I’m super casual,” she says. “I want easy, easy clothes. I don’t want to have to iron, and I
Fall Fashion 2016
want things that feel good. We are constantly searching for that.” One challenge that Burns did anticipate is her location. The store occupies a lovely part of town, but it is several blocks removed from the heart of downtown. While she’s heard suggestions to move, it’s not an idea worth entertaining. “I’m obsessed, addicted, to this neighborhood,” Burns says, “and I knew I was going to have to wait it out, to let it grow out a little bit more.” It helps that the greater Missoula downtown fashion community has embraced the store, Burns says, and has done nothing to make her feel like an outsider. She attends downtown retail meetings, participates in events and generally interacts as much as she would if she were located on Higgins Avenue. Now Burns has customers who hug her when they enter the store or call ahead to see if she will be there to have a beer with them. “We’ll come over, we’ll have a beer and shop!” Burns says. “Which is fine. It’s Missoula. We are definitely a beer- and dog-friendly store.”
Olive + Iron
Rose spends some library time decked out in a look from Olive + Iron
Keeping it casual, Stu gets help head-to-toe from The Green Light. Rose is relaxed in clothes from One Eleven.
Fall Fashion 2016
Missoula Independent
11
Fashion
Rose prepares to unpack some boxes in an ensemble from Betty’s Divine. 12
Missoula Independent
Fall Fashion 2016
Fall Fashion 2016
Missoula Independent
12
Rose, wearing clothes from Buckle, wonders what her cat, Jeff, is doing; Stu reflects, “I’m a mathematician, not a wizard!” in a sweater from Betty’s Divine, and vintage snap shirt from Divine Trash Vintage
Fall Fashion 2016
Missoula Independent
13
Rose makes a new friend in a jacket and dress from Mood Boutique
A little rain isn’t going to stop Stu and Lily when they are outfitted by The Trail Head
can ou t n y bou hio d a fas l goo fee Fall Fashion 2016
Missoula Independent
15
No risk of bad luck walking under the ladder for Rose, so long as she’s looking so lovely via this dress from Laurel Creek.
Stories and Photos by Chris LAtray• Stylist: Julia LATray
Models: Stu Landers, Lily Gladstone, Rose Marchak Clothing: The Trail Head, Betty’s Divine, Divine Trash Vintage, Laurel Creek, One Eleven, Olive + Iron, Buckle, The Green Light, Mood Boutique And Thank you to the Boone & Crockett Club for the use of their beautiful facility!
Bean-An-Ti
M
aren Lorenz starts making clogs as soon as her 2-year-old goes to sleep. First, she designs the style and measures for size. Then, the manual crafting process begins. Most of the process she taught herself through trial and error. She uses scissors to cut the leather, then mixes and dyes each piece individually. She creates a mold for the leather to dry on overnight. The next day, she seals, bevels edges, punches holes and fastens the molded leather to the wooden sole before attaching the straps and hardware. It’s a deliberate process that requires patience and perfection at every step. If the dye doesn’t come out the right color or she makes the wrong cut, she starts over. Lorenz maintains this commitment even in the face of a booming business and chaotic personal schedule. She’s a mom, a hairstylist at Boom Swagger salon and, now, a small business owner. Her handmade clog company, Bean-An-Ti, is already operating at capacity to meet current demand and custom orders continue to come in almost daily. The shoes, which are available online
by Tess Haas for between $195 and $225 depending on style, are also carried in three different boutiques: Betty’s Divine in Missoula, Wilder Goods in Bozeman and Halo Shoes in Portland. The idea for Bean-An-Ti (pronounced ban-an-ti and named after the Gaelic word for “woman of the house”) came to Lorenz after the birth of her son. She had always been creative, but becoming a mother changed almost everything about her life. “You always hear about the man of the house, but what about the woman of the house?” Lorenz asks. She looked for a way to channel her creativity while also providing for her family. “I think it’s really important for moms to be something else, and to show your kids you’re happy and fulfilled,” Lorenz says. That modest goal could turn Bean-An-Ti into an even bigger enterprise, according to Betty’s owner Aimee McQuilkin. She says Lorenz’s summer line sold out at Betty’s because customers find the shoes to be both comfortable and easy to maintain. “As someone who is on her feet all day, I can tell you they are comfortable,” McQuilken says. “I am wearing mine right now.”
Lorenz says online feedback lets her know what kind of women buy her shoes. Most, like Lorenz, need something stylish that they can wear all day. In the future, Lorenz hopes to make a clog with an even shorter heel, something that’s been requested from some customers. For now, she’s focused on meeting the current demand. Often, that’s as simple as needing more time to perform the work. She hopes to put her son in daycare and get a clicker press machine to help cut the leather. The clicker press would only expedite the process, not take away from the craftsmanship. As her company grows, Lorenz also wants to give back. She credits much of her success to a strong community of mothers and makers in Missoula. She has already made her first donation to Mountain Home Montana, a home for young mothers in need. “I am fortunate to have a partner that is so supportive and a family that’s supportive, and I want to help people that might not have that,” Lorenz says. “I wanted to make something that looked cool, but also could help people.” If sales continue to pick up, Lorenz hopes to donate 5 percent of her total web profits to other charities benefiting women. She says it’s all part of her company’s motto: “Strong beautiful shoes, for strong beautiful women.”
WHAT’S YOUR STYLE? Reuse is more than just a fad.
It’s a lifestyle.
21st Century Shaman’s Coat made by Team Epta Horae at SponCon 2014
Reuse More. Waste Less. 1 5 1 5 Wyo m i n g S t | w w w. h o m e r e s o u r c e. o r g Fall Fashion 2016
Missoula Independent
17
Bathing beauties Beads by Katie Ghen Simpson
W
ith the Fall Fashion Guide upon us, creating your next statement piece is right around the corner—and it’s something you can do yourself. Bathing Beauties Beads offers the opportunity to design and piece together creations on-site, based on your own style, taste and desires. So, what kind of designer are you? Perhaps it starts with where you keep your beads. Here are four profiles that might provide a little insight or inspiration into your next DIY creation.
really, Chanel, what does that mean anyway? You happen to know what you like, and since you have all your desires dialed in, you might as well just make it yourself! Always a classic lass, you prefer those rubies and pearls complete with
Crown Royal Keeping your beads organized and being ready to hit the road at a moment’s notice goes without saying. You find that life’s travels are experienced best at high altitudes. The inspiration of the topography sets your mind at ease, and each hard exhalation, bruised elbow and busted-up toe offers a welldeserved inhalation that awakens your craft. This bag fits easily in any backpacking gear, and after you’ve earned it—and girl, did you earn it—the best adornment is born!
Chanel Tote Some may call you high maintenance, but
18
Missoula Independent
lid warns “be careful.” You may feel similar in nature to this special keepsake, for safely stowed away within its tin walls is a beautifully curated collection of the truly magnificent, much like your inspired thoughts of design. Vintage handpainted Italian tiles transformed into pendants, vintage Japanese glass beads from the 1950s each with its own story of design, Bakelite cameos, strands of kyanite, chrysoprase and Czechoslovakian glass—none of which can be replaced. You design while images of burlesque dancers swirl within your mind, treasuring each bead like you treasure each finished piece of jewelry.
Cigars and Whiskey
gold clasp—the classics never die and, baby, you were born to live eternally in those haute designs!
The Vintage Tin The eye-catching design of this vessel demands your attention but the carefully crafted
Fall Fashion 2016
You find wisdom in the Earth, digging deep in the dirt, scouring the land for the perfect repurposed bone, rock or petrified wood. Mixed with rudraksha and turquoise strands, hammered metals and hand-forged shanks, you are the artist that makes something from the raw and incomplete. Rough cuts in stone and on your hands, literally your blood and sweat go into every inch of your design. Much like life, it is all or nothing and you plan to make something! Each day ends in a meditation of whiskey drinks and pen in hand, the birth of your next design.