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BEHIND THE SEAMS

By Charlotte O’Dea

Stage 6 2019-2020


HOW CAN WE CONTINUE TO MEND AND DEVELOP OUR CITIES IN A SUSTAINABLE WAY WITH A CORE AGENDA OF SIMULTANEOUSLY TRYING TO REDUCE THE ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT OF THE FASHION INDUSTRY?

Thesis 2


CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION 4 RESEARCH 8 SITE 28 BRIEF OUTLINE 36 MATERIAL EXPLORATION

38

DESIGN DEVELOPMENT 41 THE DESIGN 54 BIBLIOGRAPHY 85

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INTRODUCTION


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

STUDIO FAULKNER BROWNS

As a studio we are interested in exploring how urban infrastructure and architecture can be designed to respond to the climate crisis using the three key actions set out by the Architect’s Declare: ‘de-growth’, ‘time’ and ‘participation & collaboration’. It is clear that we are in the midst of a huge environmental crisis. Across the world extreme weather events are occurring with more and more frequency. In just the past year we have seen the world reach it’s highest temperature on record, the lowest- recorded sea ice levels in the Arctic; the Amazon rainforest experience the worst fire in recorded history and Australia has seen it’s worst bush fires while Venice saw a record level of flooding. What’s concerning is this is just naming a few of the costly and life consuming disasters that have occurred. With temperatures, and consequently sea levels rising, the risk of these extreme events occurring more frequently is increasing. In May 2019, the UN released a report which stated that as a consequence of the pollution and carbon emissions produced by human activity, one million plant and animal species are now at risk of extinction. We, therefore, cannot afford to continue to act the way we are and this is beginning to be recognised.

May 2019

1

Generate ideas around re-use of existing buildings.

Degrowth Take into account lifespan: - Buildings, public spaces, streets, towns and cities change through the creative (mis)use of citizens, the weather, the seasons and cycles of construction/ demolition.

2

- How do we design spaces that are fluid, responsive and capable of change overtime, whilst at the same time creating character and achieving specificity and comfort?

17

Founding Signatories

Time

In May 2019 17 architecture studios all signed a declaration to pledge for collective action towards the climate and biodiversity emergencies. Since then they have gained 947 signatures. With the built environment currently accounting for 40 percent of the UK’s carbon emissions, as a sector it could make a huge positive impact if it makes a greater effort to change to a more sustainable approach. As a studio we are curious as to what role the architect can play and intend to propose a design intervention that seeks to respond to the climate crisis in some way using the three key actions set out by the Architect’s Declare as a starting point.

Exploring how urban infrastructure and architecture can be designed to respond to the climate crisis using the 3 key actions set out by the Architect’s Declare:

Empowering users to take control.

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Allows for their creative input whilst not reducing the role of the ‘architect’ which leads to an architecture which is shaped by its uses and is better placed to adapt to its future and it is arguable therefore more sustainable.

x 947 (encounting) June 2020

Architect’s Declare

Participation & Collaboration Studio Focus 5


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

STUDIO FAULKNER BROWNS - CARBON FOOTPRINT

Our first task was to look at our carbon footprint and compare our calculations from September 2017-2018 and 20182019.

Newcastle Home: 29%

I was on my year out in 2017-18 living in London. I used the tube everyday for work and socialised and ate out a lot. I also travelled quite a bit and was living in a property where the lights and heating seemed to be constantly on, so I expected my carbon footprint to be relatively high. It came out as 122%. For 2018-19, however, I was living in Gateshead, studying at Newcastle, so was conscious to keep to a tighter budget. This meant I walked where possible or took the metro. Being on a student budget, I wrarely ate out and the heating in the house was hardly ever on. I, thought that my carbon footprint would be relatively good. However, I was horrified to discover that my carbon footprint was still 103% which is equivalent of 10.3tonnes! Admittedly, I did go on a long haul flight to Mexico and have had to commute to and from London once a month so I thought that travel must be where the largest percentage of my carbon footprint must lie. But on analysing the breakdown of the calculations it became apparent that it was in fact the ‘stuff ’ category that accrued the largest impact accounting for 35% which consisted of tech and fashion.

Total =103% 10.3 tonnes

Travel: 11%

Stuff: 35%

Food: 25%

London

I decided to sew my carbon footprint onto an old pillow case as a representation technique that simultaneously reduced my waste through reusing. I have never really sewn before so it was a skill I have found useful to learn and found the process of sewing, whilst time consuming, to be very therapeutic. I found the end result to be far more satisfying than the paper drawing, with the stitches giving it a depth, texture and tactile quality which enrichened the piece.

Total = 128% 12.7 tonnes Home: 34%

My consumption of ‘stuff ’ was equal to 3 medium haul flights, which is based on flights longer than 5000km. What’s made me feel worse was that despite being a considerably higher percentage than I was expecting I was still well below the national average.

Travel: 19%

This got me thinking much more deeply about the whole consumer driven economy and the negative impact that buying so much ‘stuff ’ has on our planet, and what could be done differently to be more sustainable.

Stuff: 22%

Food: 25%

I equally liked the effect of the messy lines created on the back of the piece as I felt it was an accurate representation of how I thought my carbon footprint was relatively clean but the reality was far different once I looked.

Showing my Carbon Footprint after 12 months in each city 6


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

MY FOCUS

In addition to looking at the impact of the built environment, I am also keen to address the impact of the fashion industry. How we live is having a huge impact on the environment and ultimately every aspect needs addressing. However, the impact of the clothes we wear has gone relatively untalked about until very recently, despite fashion being the second largest polluting industry in the world. I have, therefore, been exploring with an attitude towards urbanisation:

“How can we continue to mend and develop our cities in a sustainable way with a cor agenda of simultaneously trying to reduce the environmental impact of the fashion industry?�

Architecture

Fashion

Environment

From my initial research I proceeded by proposing two key ways that this can be carried out. One way addresses transparency, looking into the creation of fabrics from an organic and sustainable local source, which would benefit both the fashion and construction industries equally.

How can all three work together to improve and benefit each other?

The second way looks at what we can do with the waste that we already have. With 300,000 tonnes of textile waste going into the landfill every year just in the UK alone, I believe this is a vital aspect to the project. In an attempt to reduce my personal carbon footprint I have focussed on the city of Newcastle to host this site.

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RESEARCH


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

ARCHITECTURE -

‘Buildings account for around 35% of resources, 40% of energy use, consume 12% of the world’s drinkable water and produce almost 40% of global carbon emissions” (Saint Gobain, 2017) . This impact comes from every stage from construction, through to use and ultimately the end of the building’s life. To be more sustainable, we should aim to reduce the environmental impact of the building at every stage of its life cycle. But what can be done practically? A good start is to use more sustainable, naural and renewable building materials. “According to the USGBC, 40% of the world’s raw materials are used in the construction of buildings” and many materials currently used are a finite resource. Alternatively, using reclaimed and recycled materials is also advisable as the majority of waste produced from construction and demolition currently goes straight to landfill.

SUSTAINABILITY

Bloomberg HQ, London

World’s most sustainable office building, achieving the highest ever BREEAM rating of 98.5%.

The following six principles are recommended when approaching the design of a green building.

London

Carbon neutral, constructed from nearly all locally sourced materials including wool insulation.

Dalby Forest Visitor Centre,

Eden Foundation Building,

The whole building can be recycled at the end of its life.

Recycling is at its core, with old newspapers used in the walls, roof and floors, making it one of the best insulated buildings.

North Yorkshire

Building surveyor William Stanwix and Founder and MD of UK Hempcrete, Alex Sparrow, believe that “using materials with a much lower environmental impact is crucial to reducing environmental damage and resource consumption.” (Stanwix & Sparrow, Pg7) How a building is designed and constructed has major implications in relation to its long term impact, affecting areas such as indoor air quality and the amount of energy to light and heat a building over its lifetime, as well as its ‘end-of-life’ material reuse.

RSPB Environment & Education Centre,

Waitrose Stratford City, London

The first retail store to receive a BREEAM outstanding rating.

Six Principles to aim for to achieve green building:

1

2

Sustainable Materials

Energy Use & Systems

Natural and renewable materials or reclaimed and recycled materials ideally obtained locally. Consider the thermal mass of the material when picking.

Using passive solar design, energyefficient lighting, low energy appliances and renewable energy technologies where still needed.

Cornwall

3

4

Water Management

Indoor Environment Quality

Use water efficiently and re-use and recycle on site where possible.

Maximise daylight, appropriate ventilation and moisture control, optimised acoustic performance and avoid high-VOC materials.

5

6

The Flat House, Cambridgeshire

A barn conversion using Hempcrete, produced from Hemp grown around the site, which absorbs more carbon than it emits making it carbon neutral.

Optimise Site Potential

Optimise Operational & Maintenance Practices

Use the site characteristics and orientate the building to maximise benefits and reduce impact to local ecosystems

Ensure maintenance is easy and low-impact.

Six UK Sustainable Design Precedents 9


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

ARCHITECTURE -

SUSTAINABLE BUILDING MATERIAL - HEMPCRETE

Benefits of Hempcrete:

Hempcrete is a non-load-bearing composite building material consisting of hemp shivs, a lime-based binder and water.

1

Low- embodiedenergy

The hemp plant sequesters over 15 tons of carbon while growing, which gets locked up in the building fabric

Adnams Brewery in Suffolk has managed to save over 500 tons of CO2 as a result of being a hempcrete construction.

2

Thermally Efficient

Great insulator

Furthermore, industrial hemp plants, from which the hemp shivs are derived, can be grown locally, reducing the amount of transportation required.

3

Breathable

Building surveyor William Stanwix and founder and MD of ‘Hempcrete UK believes that: “Designing and building with hempcrete is a real demonstration of a total commitment to ‘saving the planet’ and protecting the health and well-being of a building’s occupants.”

Hempcrete regulates humidity levels, as it is permeable to moisture vapour, making it resistant to mold and creates excellent indoor air quality. While it is naturally porous, it has good levels of airtightness

4

Non-toxic

Made up of natural materials requiring no chemicals, creating a healthy environment for the users.

5

Fireproof

If burnt produces char and does not propagate flames

6

Lightweight

Requires methods

7

Compostable

Can be broken down, composted and used as an organic additive to improve soil conditions rather than going to landfill.

8

Good Acoustic Insulation

High absorber of sound

9

Local

Hemp can be grown in a multiple parts of the world, including the UK.

“Hempcrete is unique among natural sustainable materials in offering a substantial degree of insulation combined with a good amount of thermal mass.” (Stanwix & Sparrow, Pg 63)

“Hempcrete provides a natural, healthy, sustainable, local, low-embodied-energy building material that can truly claim to be better than zero carbon.” (Stanwix & Sparrow, P9)

low

tech

construction

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BEHIND THE SEAMS -

ARCHITECTURE -

SUSTAINABLE BUILDING MATERIAL - HEMPCRETE

Hempcrete is created by wet mixing the three components and then casting into moulds. This can either be done off site to make pre-cast bricks or panels, or it can be mixed on-site and cast in-situ directly around the structural frame in one of two methods (placed or sprayed). “This forms a non-load bearing, sustainable, ‘breathable’ (vapour permeable) and insulating material that can be used to form walls, floor slabs, ceilings and roof insulation in both new build and restoration projects.” (Stanwix & Sparrow, Pg 23)

Hemp Shiv

Lime Binder

Water

Hempcrete is a particularly attractive option for self-builders due to its relatively low-tech construction methods. It has also proved to be a commercially viable construction material, which is gaining more and more traction, in line with the growing interest for using more natural and environmentally friendly methods of construction. Construction of hempcrete is relatively low-tech but it is labour intensive. In terms of cost, it is very similar to conventional building materials, potentially costing a little more initially in some cases. However, the cost is justified environmentally and long term running cost wise with the energy saved through the building’s life, commonly resulting in cost savings overall.

Mix Together

Material costs can be cheaper given hempcretes thermal insualtion properties requiring no further insulation to be installed for walls typically 300400mm thick.

Cast in-situ (Placed)

Or

Pre-cast (Blocks)

Hempcrete Production 11


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

FASHION INDUSTRY - PRODUCTION

The fashion industry is claimed to be the second largest polluter in the world, after the oil industry. Teh fashion industry consumes over 1.2 trillion litres of water annually, with textile production accounting for approximately 1.2 billion tonnes of CO2 every year. It, therefore, is unsurprising that the “UN states that the fashion industry consumes more energy than the aviation and shipping industry combined” and that something needs to be done to change this. If all that wasn’t enough, with the rise of fast fashion, we are burning through clothes like no tomorrow with “the average person buy[ing] 60 percent more items of clothing than they did just fifteen years ago, and keeps them for about half as long.” What makes this even worse is that only 15% of our clothes are currently recycled or donated, with over 300,000 tonnes of clothes annually sent to the landfill in the UK alone. With global clothing consumption predicted to rise by 63% by 2030, the negative environmental impact globally from retail fashion will be considerably worse unless we do something about it now.

Other Plant-based fibres (Linen, hemp etc.)

Wool - 1% Down - <1% Silk - <1%

EXTRACTION

In an attempt to understand the fashion industry better, I mapped out the lifecycle of two of the most common items of clothing found in our wardrobes: the t-shirt and a pair of jeans. To analyse two different production routes, I opted to analyse both a natural fibre, in this case cotton, and a man-made fibre, in this case polyester to highlight the differences in the processes.

SENT TO MANUFACTURER

5.5%

CUT INTO CHIPS

DRAWING DYEING

MELT SPUN

DRYING

POLYMERIZATION

EXTRUDED

COOLING

Cotton 24.5%

SENT TO FACTORIES

PATTERN CUTTING

LANDFILL

LIFE CYCLE OF A POLYSETER T-SHIRT

RECYCLE

END OF LIFE

SEWING

OPTIONAL FEATURES

- PRINTING - EMBELLISHING

WASHING PRESSING

BOUGHT FOLDING

SENT TO STORE

PACKAGING SENT TO WAREHOUSES

The processing and discarding of our clothes are not the only ways we harm the environment, How we clean our clothes also has a detrimental impact. “Every time we wash a synthetic garment (polyester, nylon etc.), about 1,900 individual microfibres are released into the water, making their way into our oceans.” We are in fact creating plastic waste before we’ve even discarded the item. One of the biggest issues about the fashion industry today is the lack of awareness we have of what really goes on in making our clothes. Through the industrial revolution and the rise of fast fashion, we have become completely detached from the whole process and consequently value our clothes purely on their price tags. The impact of producing a top that only costs £5 may be kind on our purses but costs the environment and our societies considerably more. Making the fashion industry more transparent is key to creating a cultural shift towards a more environmentally friendly and sustainable future.

REFINING

SENT TO PETRO CHEMICHAL PLANT

(PETROLEUM)

CROP

HARVESTING

GINNING

SENT TO MILLS CLEANING & BLENDING

(COTTON)

CARDING

COMBING DRAWING

DYEING ROVING

Manmade Cellulose

SLASHING

WEAVING FINISHING

SPINNING

SENT TO FACTORIES

SHREDDING

(viscose, rayon etc.)

6.3%

PATTERN CUTTING

REMOVE METAL PARTS

Nylon 5.4%

Polyester 51% Other Synthetics

(acrylic, acetate etc.)

5.7%

LANDFILL

LIFE CYCLE OF A PAIR OF JEANS

RECYCLE

SEWING

PRE-WASHING

(&/0R STONEWASHING)

END OF LIFE

AESTHETIC FINISHING - SANDBLASTING - BLEACHING - ACID - COATING

WASHING PRESSING

BOUGHT FOLDING

SENT TO STORE

PACKAGING SENT TO WAREHOUSES

Global Textile Production 2017

Garment Life Cycles 12


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

FASHION INDUSTRY - PRODUCTION -

TRANSPARENCY

I produced two graphics to illustrate the stages of production that are involved in making the clothes we wear. The first graphic was looking at the production of the polyester t-shirt. I produced a series of eight t-shirt shaped images that show the different processes involved at each stage of the production. The eight stages represented are: 1. Extraction and Refining 2. Yarn Production 3. Fabric Production 4. Pattern Cutting 5. Sewing 6. Printing and Embellishing 7. Retail, Use and End-of-life 8. Plain white t-shirt that we as consumers buy I then proceeded to layer each of the images up to represent how each process contributes to the final product: It was interesting that only the ‘retail, use and end-of-life’ image was really visible with hints of the t-shirt ‘printing and embellishing’ stage peaking through’, as this is the main stage that we as the consumer are conscious of and have an idea about what goes on. As for the five stages that take place prior to these that actually involve the creation of the t-shirt we wear, they go unseen and are relatively unknown.

Unraveling the Production Process

Polyester T-shirt 13


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

FASHION INDUSTRY - PRODUCTION -

TRANSPARENCY

Visualising the production of a pair of jeans. Following the same approach used for the t-shit, I produced a series of eight jeans shaped images that visualised the different processes involved at each stage of the production. For the cotton jeans, the eight stages represented are: 1. Growing and Harvesting 2. Ginning 3. Carding and Spinning 4. Weaving 5. Dyeing 6. Pattern Cutting and Sewing 7. Finishes 8. Retail, Use and End-of-life For the jeans, I similiarly proceeded to layer each of the images up to represent how each process contributes to the final product. Once again, as with the t-shirt, only the ‘retail, use and end-of-life’ image were really visible, with the other seven stages going unseen. This is an accurate representation of our knowledge and shows just how much more there is to know. My conclusion from these two graphic is that this project should, therefore, aim to improve people’s awareness of what really goes into making our clothes by making the whole process more transparent to the consumer.

Unraveling the Production Process

Cotton Jeans 14


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

FASHION INDUSTRY -

ROLE OF THE DESIGNER

While it is important to be aware of the processes that take place, the next step in creating a positive change is actually adopting more ethical and environmentally friendly approaches towards fashion.

We need more designers to start thinking and acting this way to have a larger positive impact. The research and innovation into finding new materials for the fashion industry that are more sustainable and environmentally friendly is opening up more and more opportunities for designers to create more sustainable, ethical designs.

Pinatex,

The fibre is carbon neutral and completely biodegradable produced exclusively from sustainable raw materials – wood and seaweed – using methods that save both energy and resources.

Innovative natural leather like textile made from pineapple leaf fibre. The leaves are the by product of existing agriculture, and their use creates an additional income stream for farming communities.

Amadou Leather,

Citrus Fabrics,

by Tintex

Fashion designers, much like architects, need to start leading by example, pushing and promoting more environmentally friendly designs. For mass market retail clotehs, this is especially needed as so much high street fashion filters down from the catwalks. Here are two top fashion designers who have been actively promoting sustainability in their collections for many years. Both have been very vocal in explaining why they feel it is so important to do so as an industry.

Seacell,

Stella McCartney

Vivienne Westwood

Stella McCartney has a whole section on her brand’s website devoted to sustainability. The company’s mission statement reads: “We are agents of change. We challenge and push boundaries to make luxurious products in a way that is fit for the world we live in today and the future: beautiful and sustainable. No compromises.

Known for her modern punk style, she is also a pioneer of sustainable fashion stating on her brand’s website: “We use our collections, collaborations and catwalk shows as a platform to capture the imagination, promote innovative design and campaign for protecting life on Mother Earth, Gaia. We strive to make our clothes with greater care, promote Arts & Culture and always use our voice to mobilise people around Climate Change and Human Rights.”

Each decision we make is a symbol of our commitment to defining what the future of fashion looks like. From never using leather or fur and pioneering new alternative materials to utilising cutting edge technologies, pushing towards circularity, protecting ancient and endangered forests and measuring our impact with ground-breaking tools.” For almost 20 years, Stella McCartney has been designing and producing ethical fashion: “There’s $500 billion worth of waste in the fashion industry every year, and that, to me, is a business opportunity,” she says. “The next generation will look at all this waste and say, ‘Let’s create something new out of it.’ That’s going to be the next exciting thing.” (Emily Farra, Vogue)

“Over time, her commitment has intensified, to the point where today she is just as well known for her historically inspired collections as for her ecological militancy. One of her best-known slogans, “Buy less, choose well, make it last,” calls for balanced consumption, whether of fashion or any other resources. Practising what she preaches, Westwood is herself setting an example by slowly transforming her brand via the use of recycled or eco-friendly fabrics and environmentally sustainable production methods.” (Lea Zetlaoui, Numero)

by Grado Zero Espace A vegan leather. The mushroom material is grown on recycled sawdust and uses existing edible mushroom cultivation techniques.

by Ananas Anam Ltd

by Orange Fibre

A sustainable fabric formed by extracting cellulose from the waste citrus rinds produced by a Sicilian juice manufacturer.

Seaqual,

S.Cafe

Made from polyester fibres from plastics harvested from the Mediterranean by fishermen. Even the finishes and dyes used with it are guaranteed to be environmentally friendly.

Made from coffee grounds which offers excellent natural anti-door qualities, in addition to UV ray protection and quick drying time and recycled polyester.

by Antex & VICA

by Singtex

She strongly believes that “one of the things you have to do, and the most sustainable thing you can do as a designer, is to create pieces that people want and won’t want to throw away.”

Examples of Leading Fashion Designers

New Sustainable Materials 15


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

FASHION REVOLUTION

It is fantastic to see that research is being done into exploring potential new fashion paths. However, it is vital that we start making practical changes outside of the lab, ideally on a mass market scale, and right away. In order to do this we need to get consumers on board . I strongly believe that making the fashion industry more transparent is key to creating a cultural shift towards a more environmentally friendly and sustainable future. And I’m not alone in thinking this, with authors Dana Thomas, Clare Press, Lauren Bravo and Tyler Little all claiming the same thing, to name just a few. Encouraginly, recent studies show that 66% of global consumers reported that they were willing to pay more for sustainable goods, with 73% of millennials stating they would do so. The socioeconomic desire to shift towards having a more sustainable fashion industry is growing stronger. A large proportion of this growing momentum is thanks to two women, Orsola de Castro and Carry Somers. They began in 2013 with the campaign “Who Made My Clothes?’ in response to the devastating collapse of the Rana Plaza factory in Bangladesh. The Rana Plaza disaster is the worst event to occur in fashion history, taking 1134 lives and injuring a further 2500. The aim of the campaign was to get people to think about the lives of the people who make our clothes and the time they take making them. This campaign started in England but soon went global and now has participation in over 100 countries. This has since led Orsola and Carry to build the global movement ‘Fashion Revolution’ which is trying “to unite people and organisations to work together towards radically changing the way our clothes are sourced, produced and consumed, so that our clothing is made in a safe, clean and fair way.”

Who Made Your Clothes? 16


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

FASHION REVOLUTION

Thanks to movements like the fashion revolution, bold moves like the ‘no photoshoot’ issue by Italian Vogue and the voices of celebrities such as Emma Watson and Livia Firth, with each year that goes by more and more people are becoming aware of the issues and the need to change our approach to fashion. This is so important for not just getting the message out, but because it targets one of the most influential bodies in making a change - the consumer. Consumers have considerable power over brands and buying behaviours. Even stronger now with the power of social media. If we don’t buy something, then manufacturers will refuse to make it and designers are forced to produce alternative designs. Likewise, if we keep demanding a certain level of treatment, with enough voices it won’t be long before they finally have to be listened to. How we decide to shop and care for our clothes also makes a massive impact. So while I encourage every celebrity, advertiser and person within the industry to dance, scream and shout about the issues of the fashion industry. I’d like to explore how our cities can help educate the consumers to encourage a cultural shift among the masses. We all have a part to play in the Fashion Revolution!

Emma Watson wearing a dress made from recycled plastic bottles on the red carpet.

Livia Firth, co-founder of ‘Eco Age’ and founder of the ‘Green Carpet Challenge’

Vogue Italia January 2020 Issue making a statement about sustainability.

A lot of consumers listen to celebrities. Admittedly more often than not this because they want to be seen to be like them rather than believing in every word themselves. But what if celebrities used their position to encourage adopting good practices?

“The GCC is a sophisticated initiative that pairs glamour with ethics, serving to raise the profile of a brand on red carpets around the world, putting sustainability in the spotlight underpinned by digital disruption. The GCC was launched in 2010, when Livia walked the awards season red carpet in sustainable gowns. “I wanted to use the fact that I was going to be walking those red carpets next to Colin to campaign about environmental and social justice issues through my gown,” Livia says. Since then, the GCC has grown exponentially to include world famous designers and celebrities, all unitied in highlighting sustainable fashion and methods.” (Eco-Age)

Magazines originally were illustrated, but with the development of camera technology, photoshoots soon began to populate the pages. Today the majority of us will flick through the images admiring them but do not stop to think what producing that photo actually required. This issue aimed to highlight the environmental impact photoshoots have by producing a ‘no photoshoot’ issue.

A number of celebrities already are with Emma Watson being one of the top supporters and promoters for fair trade in the fashion industry. She stands as the UN Women Goodwill Ambassador and is a key advocate for ‘Eco-Age’ set up by Livia Firth.

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BEHIND THE SEAMS -

CONSUMERISM

c. 400 B.C.E - Greek Agora

“We’re buying five times more than we did in the 1980’s”

In the 1960s, Mary Quant and Biba were key in influencing and promoting the fast fashion trend which appeared with the dawn of the industrial revolution. They enabled people to order affordable items and receive them quickly. This concept has developed and is still very much around today and has led to a large amount of the environmental issues of the fashion industry. However, when it started these brands were about giving women a freedom enabling women from all walks of life to have fun and enjoyment with the clothes they wear. The introduction of online shopping has completely transformed how we shop and is a real threat to physical stores. One can understand the appeal; there are no crowds of people to push through, nor is there a store closing time. Instead you can buy to your hearts content from the comfort of your own sofa, or even while you’re on the go. The items are shipped directly to your door, now often free of charge. So what’s not to love? But shopping surely can’t come to an end entirely in a physical sense within our cities? So what is the ‘Next Big Thing’ going to be? It is also important to be aware of how different consumers approach shopping in order to best design a space to positively engage the greatest number of people.

Bargain Hunter

Educated Shopper

Negotiator

Brand Loyalist

Browser

c. 7 B.C.E - Retail shops invented

People are shopping more than ever, yet our retail stores are suffering greatly and under threat. It is, therefore, important to understand how people shop, looking not just at how they do so today, but how shopping has changed over time, in an attempt to highlight any consistently important aspects to the shopping experience. Harry Selfridge transformed the shopping experience in 1908 for women in particular, by introducing the powder room to the department store. This meant that women could now spend all day shopping if they desired as they were no longer restricted by their bladders.

Impulse Buyer

Rise of Trade causes - 1100-1300 significant growth of shops j Royal Exchange London - 1566

1600s - Explosion of shops due to rise of credit

1762 - First Arcade 1819 - Burlington Arcade, London

First Department Store - 1852

Selfridges London - 1908 First Supermarket - 1930

Practical Shopper 1954 - First Mall 1956 - First Duty-Free Shop

Online Shopping began - 1995

History of Shopping

Consumer Habits 18


BEHIND THE SEAMS - BRINGING FASHION & TEXTILE PRODUCTION BACK TO THE LOCAL

I’d like to bring industry back closer to home, closing the gap between industry and the consumer. Lorenzetti’s painting was used as an example by Carolyn Steel in her talk on Sitopia to show the divide between the city and agriculture. People have demanded to know what it is they’re eating and where it comes from for years now, growing in force year on year. As a result, there are now many examples of inner-city farming to try and reduce the environmental impact of the food industry and help people connect with the food they eat. If we can do this with food, why aren’t we doing this for fashion? Almost every part of our lives is touched by textiles, even the way we speak, as highlighted by Kassia St Clair in the Golden Thread. It is a fundamental part of our global history, cultures and societies, yet we seem not to consider it as important to question. One could argue that food is vital to survival as it nourishes us, yet without textiles and clothes we could not protect ourselves from the elements. Furthermore, we are in fact affecting the food we eat as a result of the fashion industry and our consumer behaviours. Everytime you wash a synthetic piece of clothing, (e.g a polyester t-shirt,) 1900 individual microplastics are released into the ocean, which fish ingest and consequently as do we also when they end up on our plates.

Wool Fresco panels from ‘The Allegory of Good and Bad Government’ by Ambrigo Lorenzetti Showing the divide between food production in the country and the city where it is sold and eaten. Made me think that it’s the same with fashion.

Hemp

This thesis isn’t about telling us what we can and can’t do, but rather it’s about educating us as consumers to become more aware, in the hope of creating a cultural shift towards a more conscious consumer future. Knowing what is going on is key to creating awareness and happily there is a growing movement fighting for this. However, those participating in these movements tend to be people who are already aware, up to a point. It is just as important, if not more so, to try and educate those who haven’t given it a moment’s thought. To do this it is something that ideally should inhabit their daily lives and routines and ultimately be seen as an experience that benefits them initially to draw them in. One can then hope that what they see has a positive effect on how they want to go on to consuming. I’d like to blur the lines between the fashion industry and the consumer by bringing it into the city. I believe that transparency, combined with an understanding and a greater appreciation of how our clothes are made is key to creating a cultural shift among consumers. Cotton mills were in the heart of Manchester and wool mills still exist in Leicester, so it is certainly possible. With the death of the high street looming, this could pose a perfect opportunity to revitalise the hearts of our towns and cities.

Nettle

Inspired by Lorenzetti’s fresco panels

Showing the Divide between Fashion Industry’s Manufacturing and Consumerism

Which Fibres can be Produced in Newcastle? 19


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

FASHION -

SUSTAINABLE TEXTILES - HEMP

Benefits of Hemp over cotton:

Hemp is arguably one of the most sustainable resources we have. It can be “found across the world, and has a long history of widespread use for a range of important products: hemp seeds for oils and resin, fuel, medicines and cosmetics; hemp fibre for hard-wearing clothing, rope and tough fabrics such as sail cloth (the word canvas derives from cannabis: literally - originally- ‘a fabric made from hemp’, and as a pulp from which to make paper.” (Stanwix and Sparrow, Pg16) Furthermore, up until the 1920’s 80% of our clothes were made from hemp. Hemp is a fast growing, annual crop plant, reaching heights of between 1.54m in as little as 14 weeks. It requires no pesticides, little fertiliser, has deep roots protecting the top soil and gives back 6070% of its nutrients, replenishing the soil, so making it an excellent and profitable rotation crop, as well as crop in its own right. “Some research has shown up to 20 percent higher yields for wheat when it is planted in rotation with hemp.” (Burgess, P158). Therefore, hemp is not just a source of food itself but it can also help boost other crop yields. The bast fibres can be found in the ‘bark’ of the woody stem, while the shivs make up the inner part of the stem. It is, therefore, possible to produce both fabric and hempcrete from the same plant using up 90% of the plant. The remaining 10% consits of 7% fines, which are small pieces of bast fibres and can go into consumer goods such as mattresses, and the the other 3% is dust which can be used as an ingredient in fishing bait. So with procedures in place it is possible for the entire plant to be used and no waste to be created.

“Hemp is the only plant that can feed you, clothe you, house you and heal you.”

1

Fast Growing

Takes around 3-4 months to grow ( much faster than trees and cotton). It is, therefore, possible to get 3 crops a year from one piece of land, although two crops is more realistic as while it is relatively frost tolerant as a seedling it prefers a mild climate to reach it’s best quality.

2

No-Pesticides

Naturally weed resistant. One of the reasons it is such a good rotation crop and it prepares and replenishes the soil.

3

Little Water Requirement

10x stronger than cotton as a fibre meaning it lasts longer. It is stronger, lighter and more durable than a lot of woods and when made into paper it can be recycled up to 8 times rather than just the 3 times from tree based paper.

4

Highly Durable

Made up of natural materials requiering no chemicals creating a healthy environment for the users.

5

Renewable

Hemp can be recycled and go back into the soil as an additive.

20


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

FASHION -

SUSTAINABLE TEXTILES - HEMP

Growing

Carding

Harvesting & Retting

Spinning

Decorticating

Weaving

Finished Fabric

Pattern Cutting and Sewing

Finished Garments

Hemp Garment Production 21


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

HEMP -

ZERO WASTE

Hemp not only gives back to the environment and is zero carbon but can benefit both the architectural and fashion industries.

Back to the soil

Both hempcrete and hemp fabric can be achieved from the same crop, as in obtaining the hemp shivs for making hempcrete, the hemp fibres are a by product which are what is required for making hemp fabric. Therefore, if we introduce a greater hempcrete building industry it makes sense to integrate a fabric industry to improve the fashion industry’s environmental impact simultaneously.

THE WASTE PRODUCT OF

EXTRACTING THE HEMP FIBRES

FOR HEMP FABRIC PRODUCTION IS

HEMP SHIV WHICH IS THE KEY RAW

In both cases this brings industry and skills back to the local and the consequently drastically reduced transportation alone is a huge positive impact. on the environment.

MATERIAL FOR HEMPCRETE. Hemp Bast (Fibres)

Hemp

Hemp Hurd (Shiv)

THEREFORE THE SAME CROP OF HEMP CAN BENEFIT BOTH THE Architecture

Fashion

FASHION & CONSTRUCTION

Environment

Fibre

Hempcrete

INDUSTRY.

Hemp can help benefit all three

Recycle

Compost

Hemp

Fashion Industry

Construction Industry

The hemp hurds (fibres) can go towards making fabric and the hemp shivs for building materials. In both cases once at the end of their lives they can be used as compost, giving back to the soil. 22


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

HEMP FABRIC -

SUSTAINABLE REPLACEMENT FOR CALICO

Fashion designers make toiles, which are mock up garments, using a material called calico, before making the real garment. Calico, however, being made from unfinished cotton has a high environmental impact. Producing cotton is a highly water-intensive process and requires a vast amount of pesticides while growing which damages the soil and pollutes the waters. Furthermore, as cotton can’t be grown in the UK, it has to be imported. Typically this is from the otherside of the world having already been shipped around during processing. In Newcastle there is the Northumbria University Fashion Department, which is one of the best in the country. On average the school gets through approximately 3100m of 145cm wide calico per year. I’d like to propose an inner-city production of hemp fabric to provide the university with hemp fabric to replace the use of calico as a first step in reducing the fashion industry’s environmental impact. The use already exists and there is a desire from the university’s department to be as sustainable and ethical as possible. By using locally sourced and produced organic hemp fabric as an alternative to the calico enables the department to take another step towards become as sustainable as possible. While this project is focussing in on Newcastle, it is worth considering that there are currently 113 fashion and textile courses across the UK. If each course was to move away from using calico towards home grown hemp fabric instead this would reduce a significant proportion of the fashion industry’s carbon footprint, whilst also providing the key raw material for hempcrete which can be used in construction. Read on to find out more.

Northumbria University’s Fashion department gets through approximately 3100m of 1.5m wide calico each academic year

Hemp Fabric to Replace the Use of Calico (unfinished cotton) within Fashion Design Schools

113 Fashion and Textile Courses across the UK 23


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

HEMP FABRIC -

SCALE OF PRODUCTION

Looking at the numbers. On average one can expect to produce two tonnes of hemp from an acre of land. This should provide a yield of at least 150kg of textile fibres, which in turn produces 73kg of yarn. The same acre will also produce 200kg of shorter tow fibres, suitable for geotextiles or paper, as well as 1000kg of hemp shivs, which can be used for making hempcrete. Note that these numbers are based on a conservative prediction, so volumes could be higher depending on crop yield and the percentage loss in processing the fibres. 73kg of yarn can produce 182m2 of fabric, which equates to 440 rolls of 100m(l) x1.5m(w) fabric. Note that the roll length can vary depending on the weight(gsm) of the fabric. Typically a t-shirt would be made from 180gsm whereas jeans would use 400gsm weighted fabric for comaprison. Kenny Macrae, the fashion department’s technician at the University of Northumbria, reported that each year the students get through “approx. 2500m of medium weight 145cm calico across the academic year, plus negligible amounts of medium/extra width, heavy weight and light weight approx. 200m of each.” Therefore, the department annual gets through approximately 3100m in total.

1 acre = 2 tonnes of hemp

1000kg hemp shivs

150kg textile fibre

73kg yarn

182m2 fabric

Aiming for 3100m to go to the Northumbria Design School that then leaves a remaining 40900m to be sold or used. From this, 409 rolls of fabric could be produced or alternatively approximately 27000 medium mens t-shirts. (The number of t-shirts obtained from this amount of fabric will vary on the sizes required.) Ultimately, some of the yarn should be kept back to both sell as yarn, or more importantly use to mix with recycled fibres where needed. Then a proportion of rolls should be kept available for sale and the remaining proportion used for small scale runs of community led clothing designs such as t-shirts.

= 440x100m 1.5m(w) rolls of fabric

Scale of Prodction 24


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

DEALING WITH EXISTING TEXTILE WASTE

It is equally important to address the issue of textile waste. 300,000tonnes of textiles go into landfill every year in the UK alone.

Mechanical Methods:

While it is certainly encouraged to donate old clothes to charities, only 15% actually gets sold, with the rest typically shipped to developing countries. As 98% of existing textiles being recylable there is a huge potential industry and market for recycling textile waste into new yarn and other products; these include construction and building materials. Professor Dr. Visser believes and stated in the documentary, ‘Cloring the Loop’ that “we need to redesign the industrial system. Literally a new industrial revolution closing the loop.” within which it is vital to reuse and recycle our waste and move to a circular economy. Therefore, I would like to propose that a textile recyling centre is built as part of the larger masterplan. Hearing from Kenny Macrae, the fashion department’s technician at the University of Northumbria, it is clear that there is currently a need for one as ‘to date it has proved incredibly difficult to find someone prepared to take our waste fabric for recycling” and went on to say ‘It’s something I would very much like to get sorted, particularly as students become more conscious and aware of the environment/ethics and sustainability of fashion etc.”.

Shredding

Carding

Spinning

Sorting

Weaving

Finished Recycled Fabric

Chemical Methods:

Break down into monomers

Polymerisation -> producing fibres

Textile Recycling Centre as Part of the Overall Masterplan 25


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

LEARNING & ENGAGEMENT

Learning is key part of this project. The whole idea of bringing industry and the production of Hemp to the highstreet is to make the process visible and transparent to the consumers. To enable them to learn and think about the people and the skills that actually go into making their clothes. Being able to offer lessons, demonstrations, talks and events to get the public directly involved is an important aspect of the programme. The link with the Northumbria University in providing hemp fabric as an alternative to calico could open up the potential for a partnership. The school already has a number of facilities and equipment that could enable talks and events to be hosted. Doing this would help to promote the students and their work as well as enabling the students to gain a better understanding of the manufacturing processes that go into the fabrics they are using.

Courses

Classes

Talks and Events

Catwalk

Emily Wade from Stitched-up, a community programme in Manchester, states that “If you’ve never made anything before it really makes you aware of the skill sets that are involved to make it and I think it makes you think about what you’re buying.” Not everyone is going to want to learn how to sew, weave or knit and that’s absolutely fine, and that is where being able to just see the process in action comes into particular fruition. However, for those that do it provides an opportunity to start to learn and engage with like minded people, providing a social hub.

26


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

LOCAL CIRCULAR ECONOMY

“A circular economy is an alternative to a traditional linear economy (make, use, dispose) in which we keep resources in use for as long as possible, extract the maximum value from them whilst in use, then recover and regenerate products and materials at the end of each service life.� Through the masterplan this local economy also seeks to be a circular economy. Both parts of the industrial hemp plant are utilised to feed both the fashion and construction industries. Being an organic and sustainable material any waste produced in processing the hemp can be used for compost to fertilise the soil. Further, both finished fabrics and building materials derived from hemp can be completely broken down and composted at the end of their lives, resulting in no material needing to go to landfill.

+

To further reduce the impact of the fashion industry, as well as extending the life of used hemp fabric, a textile recycling centre is planned as part of this new circular partnership programme. The main aim is to reduce the amount of waste going to landfill, as well as aiming to relieve the pressure on raw materials and the environment.

27


SITE


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

NEWCASTLE UPON TYNE

As mentioned before, I have chosen to base my site in the city of Newcastle in an attempt to reduce my carbon footprint by keeping my site local. Newcastle is a city located in the NorthEast of England on the north bank of the River Tyne. It is located in the county of Tyne and Wear and is twinned with the city of Gateshead. Newcastle and Gateshead are directly linked by five bridges; the most notable being the Millenium Bridge. Newcastle is the most popuous city in the north east, and the eighth biggest in the country with a population of 280,177 as recorded in the 2011 census. Newcastle’s history stretches back to Roman times and over the years has played important roles in the 14th century wool trade, 16th century coal mining, 18th century printing and most famously for its role in the industrial revolution as a major ship building and manufacturing hub.

Newcastle

Today it stands as a centre of buisness, arts, science and academia and has two universities: Newcastle University and Northumbria University. With Newcastle City Council having pledged to reach carbon zero by 2030 it feels very fitting that a sustainble project aiming to reduce waste and environmental impact should be located here. Let Newcastle now be one of the leading cities of the sustainable revolution!

Large scale farming possibilities are in abundance especially with hemp being a profitable rotation crop.

Green Space in and around Newcastle Upon Tyne. 29


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

NEWCASTLE UPON TYNE - URBAN CORE - SITE RESEARCH

Zooming in on the Urban Core of Newcastle and Gateshead

Primary Retail Areas

Primary Pedestrian Routes

Existing Bus Routes

Distinctive Landmarks

30


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

NEWCASTLE UPON TYNE - RETAIL CORE ANALYSIS

With the gradual ongoing decline of highstreets, I felt this project could provide the perfect opportunity to propose a way of revitalising the high street, which is considered to be the hearts of the city. This simultaneously hits the prime retail consumers, encouraging the message to reach as wide an audience as possible.

Zooming in on the Retail Core

Analysis of the Retail Core 31


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

NEWCASTLE UPON TYNE - RETAIL CORE ANALYSIS

Northumberland St.

Northumbria Uni Design School

Pedestrian Routes

Bus Routes

Car Parks

Retail Streets

Back Alleys and Underused Streets

Active Facades

Analysising of the Retail Core 32


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

SITE RESEARCH -

THE HIGH STREET

Blackett Street

St. Mary’s Place

St. Mary’s Place

Blackett Street

Key:

Highlighting the empty, run down and underused spaces along the high street Bla ckett Stree

Empty

t

Nor th u m

Run Down

b er la nd S

Underused

tre e t

Northumberland Street Elevations

St .

Ma

r y ’s

Pl a

ce

33


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

SITE RESEARCH - POTENTIAL SITES & ACTIVITIES

From my analysis of the retail core there were three key sites that stood out. My initial thoughts were for a four stage inner-city masterplan.

Stage 1 - Growing the hemp. Assuming the pedestrianisation of Blackett Street is in place and a continued aim to reduce the number of cars in the city centre, the need for the sheer number of carparks that currently exist will reduce, leaving redundant spaces. I, therefore, propose that the roof of Eldon Square is used as a city centre base for growing up to 1.5 acres of hemp. Furthermore, with the circular multi-storey car park attached still in place this provides access for any vehicles and/or machinery required in the process without causing any disruption.

S H O W C A MANUFACTURE S I N G MENDING

Stage 2 - Manufacturing I propose that the empty ‘Outfit’ store which faces onto the high street and the existing car park behind are refurbished and re-appropriated to house the proposed manufacturing and garment making process, directly visible to the consumers from the high street. A clothing recycling collection point should be included to support the textile recycling aspect of the project. Stage 3 - Learning Designing a public design school which enables people to take short courses, classes, attend talks and events to get people involved and enable them to learn about fashion and the industry. Currently this is envisoned on the Stack site, where the lease runs out in 2022. However, with the links with Northumbria University, a whole new building may not be needed. Stage 4 - Showcasing Weaving the design into the high street as a way of patching it up and revitalising it. There are so many spaces, particularly on the upper levels of the high street which are currently empty. These unused spaces could be used to showcase the designs produced by the fashion students and other local designers or could equallybe used to temporarily house artisans to enable them to bring their craft to the Highstreet. Shops on the Highstreet have a temporal nature which is unlikely to change. The activation of these spaces in the interim periods plays along with that rather than trying to fight against it. These displays can be easily moved once the space is appropriated and the changing displays can create a continuous thread of intrigue of what’s new, encouraging people to come back and look.

O F

GROWING

D E S I

RECYLING

G N

LEARNING

Maps Highlighting the Activities that Could take Place in Each Site as Part of the Masterplan 34


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

SITE RESEARCH - CHOSEN SITE

Ultimately, I needed to focus in on one particular site. The roof top of Eldon Square has been kept as the inner-city location for growing hemp. This site doesn’t need a vast amount attention for the processes that will take place. However, the debate came between the old ‘Oufit’ store block (shown in yellow) or the ‘Stack’ site (shown in red). Both sites have something to offer. The Stack site could have provided a very intersting location on the corner of the Highstreet for a new build project on a relatively large plot of land for such a prime location. But the old Outfit store block I believe provides a more suitable site for the thesis that I’m proposing. This thesis is all about the processes of mending, making and reducing waste. It, therefore, feels a little contradictory to go for a totally new build project over a refurbishment. This is not to say that new elements shouldn’t be include. Far from it, rather that the design should knit into and work with the existing urban fabric to mend and develop something new. Likewise, being located right in the middle of the high street allows it to target the consumer right at the core. We’re talking about wanting to change the consumer mindset to a more conscious consumerism, which is a vital step in reaching a more sustainable fashion future. The same applies to the built environment which needs to lose the stigma that new is better and embrace working with what’s existing and more sustainable materials where possible. The other potential sites could also be adapted as the programme/ masterplan organically evolves with time as these offer natural next steps and locations for mending our urban environment.

The Chosen Site 35


BRIEF OUTLINE


BEHIND THE SEAMS

The question this thesis aims to address is:

How can we continue to develop and mend our cities in a sustainable way but with a core agenda of simultaneously trying to reduce the environmental impact of the fashion industry.

This project seeks to achieve this by proposing a local ciruclar economy which is knitted into the existing fabric of the city. The key aspects of the programme aim to: 1. Address the need for transparency, and raising awareness of the processes, people and skills involved in making clothes, to encourage a more conscious consumer mindset. 2. Propose a zero-waste economy where all aspects of the hemp plant are used to create a local, sustainable fabric as well as building materials such as hempcrete; both of which can be composted at the end of their lives to give back to the soil. 3. Tackle the issue of waste by including a textile recycling centre which can make use of the inner-city manufacturing machines for spinning and weaving to create recycled fabrics as well as exploring how textile waste can be used in construction.

I intend to focus on the inner city block (highlighted in yellow on the retail core masterplan). Here the design proposal should knit and weave into the existing buildings: reusing, extending and demolishing where appropriate. Fundamentally, the design must be able to house the machines required for producing 40,000m of 1.5m wide hemp fabric, as well as producing recyled fabrics in between crop harvests.

However, it should be designed to enable the public to see the processes involved and engage with them where possible. Garment production and tailoring should be available on site, with opportunites for the the public to see and get involved in the designing process. People want to be part of something bigger and ultimately are more likely to value their clothes if they have played a part in creating it. Given the resurgance and popularity of making and mending, it follows to also include a sustainable haberdashery shop on site as well. Including this shop would enable people, particularly fashion students, to obtain hemp fabric, recycled fabrics and buttons etc. Currently purchasing sustainable materials in Newcastle is very limited on the High street. Social spaces, such as cafes should also be included to enable people to spend more time in the space rather than just passing through; the longer people are able to see the processes being carried out, the greater their appreciation for the time taken and skills required to produced fabrics and garments will be. There is also the ability to host classes and talks on site. Having the Northumbria Fashion Design School (highlighted in peach) close by provides the opportunity for fashion students to use the space. The creation of close links between the two sites will be mutually beneficial, also providing the opportunity to help further educate the public. As for the hempcrete aspect of the production, much like the textile recycling, this process takes place on another site locally. However, hempcrete is used as the primary building material for the newbuild design, showcasing how hemp can be used to create a sustainable architecture as well as fashion all in one place right on the Highstreet.

While for this project the focus is on the city of Newcastle, the declining retail highstreet is a problem that is being faced country wide. While it would not be possible for every town and city to have a complete manufacturing business on its Highstreet, the concept of mending and awareness can be carried through with the way that the buildings are built and refurbished able to set a strong precedent. As mentioned earlier there are currently 113 fashion courses in the UK. Can you imagine the positive impact that could be made on the environment if all of these courses were to use UK grown and produced hemp fabric as opposed to calico? Using hemp doesn’t just help the fashion industry’s in becoming more environmentally friendly by reducing its reliance on heavily polluting cotton by providing a sustainable alternative. It can also have a huge positive impact on the construction industry’s environmental footprint. Given that just one acre of hemp produces a minimum of 1000kg of hemp shivs, when scaled up this could create a very commercially attractive and sustainable UK hempcrete industry as a by product of the hemp fabric production forming a cost effective circular economy which as we learnt from the documentary ‘Closing the Loop, is vital for our future.

+

When you combine the fact that hemp is an excellent and profitable rotation crop and that with licenses you could use the land that is already used for agricultural to grow the hemp required, this is a proposal that requires very little new infrastructure proportionally to put into action. This proposal offers a practical, low carbon way for architecture, fashion and farming to help each other, working together to create a more sustainable future.

37


MATERIAL EXPLORATION


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

MATERIAL EXPLORATION -

HEMPCRETE

Understanding how Hempcrete is made. I felt it was important to experience first hand making hempcrete to gain a better understanding of the material. I made a 1:1 model of a traditional hempcrete block measuring 500(l) x 300(w) x 200mm(h). This involved mixing 3kg hemp shivs with 6kg lime binder and 10 litres water. I also experimented with smaller moulds measuring 300x300x60mm and 150x150x30mm. These were to investigate the sorts of patterns you could create in hempcrete which could be scaled up for larger panels.

(Note: The finished dry models are not shown as I was unable to bring these home in the event of the Coronavirus outbreak and lockdown.)

39


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

MATERIAL EXPLORATION -

TEXTILES

Experimenting with textiles. Having experimented with hempcrete, I felt it was also important to gain a better understanding of the processes involved in fashion, making both textiles and garments.

I signed up for sewing classes: As a group we met up every Monday evening for 6 weeks with the task of making our own skirt. This was a fantastic experience, which gave me an understanding of pattern cutting and garment construction. I learnt to weave on a loom: This was done to understand how threads are woven together to create a piece of fabric. I also made a small concept model which extrapolated the horizontal warp threads from the vertical weft threads, gaining spatial and technical understanding of fabric weaving. I had a go at knitting as well: While knitting is not part of the production programme for making the hemp fabric, it is something which could be taught in one of the workshops or demonstrated in an artisan studios.

6 week Sewing Class

Trying natural dyes: While there is no fabric dyeing proposed as part of the production as only natural hemp fibres and coloured recycled fibres will be used, I did want to understand the natural dyeing process for yarns and fabrics. In addition I started exploring how textiles could be used in architecture. I experimented with ideas of how textiles could literally be reused to create textured walls and screens of varying opacities. The fact that hemp can be 3D printed also led me to making some 3D printed ‘fabric’ built up of interlinked circles which in turn produced intricate patterned panels as a by product which had a lace like quality to them ..

Homemade Natural Dyes

Weaving

Knitting

Experimenting with textiles in Architecture 40


DESIGN DEVELOPMENT


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

ANALYSING THE BLOCK

Walking down Northumberland Street

Corner of Saville Row and New Street

View down Northumberland Road

Corner of Saville Row looking up Northumbria Highstreet 42


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

REACTIVATING THE URBAN BLOCK

Existing

Proposed

Creating a direct route from the growing site, to production and the final consumer.

Opening up the Block

To activate the currently underused public realm in a prime retail area 43


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

URBAN RESPONSE

Existing Block

New Street

MacDonalds Building has false facade on levels 02&03

‘Hemp Way’ Opening up the public realm behind

Opening up the Block 44


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

THE PROGRAM WCS

HEMPCRETE SHOWROOM LIBRARY

CINEMA

CLOTHES RENTAL

CAFE PRODUCTION CARDING SPINNING WEAVING PATTERN CUTTING SEWING

WCS

HABEDASHERY

TAILORS

LOCKERS &WCS

WCS DEMO/ HANDS ON

SOFT PLAY

ARTISAN STUDIOS

WORKSHOPS

CAFETERIA

(KITCHEN/) PUBLIC GARDEN

CHANGING ROOMS EXHIBITION SPACE

ACTIVITY ZONE

Initial Zoning Ideas

EVENT SPACE

SECOND HAND CLOTHES STORE

Area Schedule

Looking at the size, light and access requirements for each space 45


THE PROGRAM DN

UP

UP UP

DN

UP

UP UP

DN

UP

UP UP

DN

UP

UP UP

DN

UP

UP UP

DN

UP

UP UP

DN

UP

UP UP

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

DN

UP

UP UP

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND STREET

BEHIND THE SEAMS -

SAVILLE ROW

N

DN

UP

UP UP

Initial Zoning Iterations

Left column shows the existing block and its uses

Exploded Axo

Exploring the use and renovation of existing buildings in the block

46


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

CONCEPT SKETCHES

Initial Ideas to Approaching the Site 47


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

CONCEPT SKETCHES

Developing the Courtyard and New Build

Notes on Sustainability 48


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

CONCEPT SKETCHES

Section through B1 & B2

Split Section through B2 & B3

49


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

CONCEPT SKETCHES

Hamp and textile insulation in walls as well as ceiling -> thermal and accoustic benefits

Model of the basement, ground floor and level 1 of the empty retail store (building 1) showing the proposed adaption. Creating a double height space to allow for production to take place with a balcony to enable members of the public to enter inside from above and experience the noise, heat and sound of the machines.

(Top Line) Fitting hemp and recycled textile insulation into the existing soffit and walls of the existing carpark (building 2) to improve the acoustic qualities.

(Bottom Line) Patchwork of bricks The existing brick work on site has a patch work quality to it from changes through time. Looked to ‘Resource Rows’ in Copenhagen as an example of achieving a patchwork aesthetic from the outset, keeping in mind the intention to use reclaimed bricks and to compliment the existing buildings.

Exploring the use of fabric for solar shading and creating a new aesthetic.

Adapting Existing Buildings 50


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

CONCEPT SKETCHES - LIGHT AND VENTILATION

Existing car park central ramps

Diagram showing elements of structure to be removed from the central ramps

Diagram to show concept for creating a central atrium, which windows can be opened up into, to provide natural ventilation and aid air circulation throughout the building, as well as bringing light into the heart of the building.

Adapting the Existing Car Park Ramps 51


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

CONCEPT SKETCHES - SUSTAINABILITY - RAIN WATER COLLECTION AND RECYCLING

Rainfall is funnelled down and captured in the base of the lightwell.

Rainwater is collected to help reduce the amount of mains water the industrial washing machines use for the fabric finishing.

Greywater from the industrial washing machines is cleaned and recycled in the basement.

Rainwater Filter Rainwater Collection Tank

Recycled Water Storage & Pump

Grey water Filter

Water Management

Re-use and recycling of water on site in line with green building principle 3 . 52


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

CONCEPT SKETCHES - ROOF TOP BAR

Material:

Lift 2 Lift 3

Reuse Monarflex, reclaimed from construction sites to create a colourful retractable canopy to the rooftop bar.

Fixed to sliding cables fitted to the timber structure.

Precedent: Horst Festival by Assemble Studio The concept of the roof top lighting up, creating a colourful beacon of activity at night

53


THE DESIGN


BEHIND THE SEAMS

GROWING

PRODUCTION

LEARNING

SHOWCASING

4 Key Elements 55


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

THE DESIGN- KNITTING INTO THE URBAN BLOCK

New Street

Renovating Existing Buildings

Existing block for comparison

Showcasing Hempcrete 56


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

THE PRODUCTION STAGES

1 NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Haberdashery Sore

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Fire Escape Sairs

Lift 3

Rainwater collection pool

Fire Escape Sairs

Storage

Lobby

BOH Lift

Cl.St

STREET

STREET

Corridor

Locker Room

Storage

Cl.St

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Clothes Store

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

Visitor Lift

Locker Room

Storage

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs

Stairs Gallery 1

Gallery 1

Lift

Lift

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

Cafe Counter

WCs

WCs

Baby change

Baby change

Courtyard

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

SAVILLE ROW

2

Growing NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Rainwater collection pool

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 3

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Rainwater collection pool

Fire Escape Sairs

BOH Lift

Storage

Lobby

STREET

Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Locker Room

Storage

Cl.St

Clothes Store

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

Visitor Lift

Locker Room

Storage

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Carding

JOHN DOBSON STREET

JOHN DOBSON STREET

Stairs

Visitor Lift

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs

Men's WCs

Lift 1

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Clothes Store

Women's WCs

Changing Rooms

Cl.St Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs

STREET

3 2

Lift 3

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Changing Rooms

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Spinning

BOH

BOH

Carding

Lift 2

Store

Storage

Lobby

3

Carding Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point

Fire Escape Sairs

JOHN DOBSON STREET

JOHN DOBSON STREET

Stairs

Visitor Lift

Carding

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Entrance Lobby

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Women's WCs

Changing Rooms

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs

Clothes Store

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Storage

Lobby

BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Changing Rooms

1

Lift 3

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

BOH

BOH

Carding

Lift 2

Store

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Stairs

Stairs Gallery 1

Gallery 1

Lift

Lift

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Covered Outdoor Seating

G

Cafe

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter Cafe Counter

WCs

WCs

Baby change Baby change

Courtyard

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

SAVILLE ROW

8

4

5

Weaving NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Lift 3

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Rainwater collection pool

Fire Escape Sairs

BOH

Cl.St

STREET

Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Stairs

Corridor

Locker Room

Storage

Carding

Women's WCs

Cl.St

HEMP WAY

Clothes Store

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Visitor Lift

Stairs

Corridor

Locker Room

Storage

Timber Arched Entrance

JOHN DOBSON STREET

Visitor Lift

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs

Men's WCs

Lift 1

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

STREET

Clothes Store

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

F

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Changing Rooms

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs

4

HEMP WAY

Stairs

Stairs

Gallery 1

Gallery 1 Lift

Covered Outdoor Seating

Lift

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

Cafe Counter

WCs

WCs

Baby change

Baby change

Courtyard

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

7

7

Storage

Lobby

BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Changing Rooms

Timber Arched Entrance

Lift 3

BOH BOH Lift

Carding

Lift 2

Store

Storage

Lobby

5

Fabric Cutting

Haberdashery Sore

Store

Fire Escape Sairs

6

Fabric Finishing

6

SAVILLE ROW

Garment Production

8

Packaging

F G

Highlighting the eight different stages of production within the scheme.

Hemp Fabric and Hemp Garments

F 57


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

ACTIVITY ZONING

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Fire Escape Sairs

Lift 3

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Storage

Lobby BOH BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms Disabled WC & Baby Change

STREET

Stairs

Carding

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

Visitor Lift

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Clothes Store

Locker Room

Storage

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

WCs

Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

Lift 2

Lift 3

Production

Workshops/ Classes

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Haberdashery Sore

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs Gallery 4

Reception Lift

Lift 2

Store Balcony area - protected by glass windows which can be slid down to open it up to the elements

Lift 3

Gallery 6/ Function Room

Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

WCs Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Baby change

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

B1

Gallery 5

Fire Escape Sairs

Storage

Lobby BOH BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms Disabled WC & Baby Change

STREET

Stairs

Carding

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

Visitor Lift

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Clothes Store

Locker Room

Storage

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

WCs

Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

Lift 2

Retail

Lift 3

Exhibition/ Events

Haberdashery Sore

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Lift 2

Store

Timber Arched Entrance

Lift 3

Stairs Gallery 4

Reception Lift

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Balcony area - protected by glass windows which can be slid down to open it up to the elements

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Gallery 6/ Function Room

Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

WCs

Fire Escape Sairs

Storage

Lobby

Baby change

BOH BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms

STREET

Stairs

Carding

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Gallery 5

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

Visitor Lift

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Clothes Store

Locker Room

Storage

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

WCs

Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

B2

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

Cafe/bar NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

WCs & Lockers

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Fire Escape Sairs

Lift 3

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Storage

Lobby BOH BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms Disabled WC & Baby Change

STREET

Stairs

Clothes Store

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Visitor Lift

Stairs

Corridor

Locker Room

Storage

Timber Arched Entrance

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Carding

B3

HEMP WAY

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

WCs

Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

Circulation

Storage 58


ZONING PLANS - GROUND FLOOR

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Haberdashery Sore

Haberdashery Sore Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Lift 2

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Rainwater collection pool

Rainwater collection pool

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Fire Escape Sairs

Fire Escape Sairs

Storage

Lobby

Fire Escape Sairs

Clothes Store

STREET

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

Visitor Lift

Locker Room

Storage

Carding

Women's WCs

Cl.St Disabled WC & Baby Change

Clothes Store

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

STREET

Carding

JOHN DOBSON STREET

JOHN DOBSON STREET

Locker Room

Stairs

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs

Corridor

Stairs

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

Locker Room

Storage

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries Visitor Lift

JOHN DOBSON STREET

Entrance Lobby

Storage

Cl.St

Changing Rooms

Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries Visitor Lift

Women's WCs Changing Rooms

Cl.St

Men's WCs

Lift 1

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

STREET

BOH Lift BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

BOH

BOH

BOH Lift

Changing Rooms

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Storage

Lobby

Storage

Lobby

BOH

Clothes Store

Lift 3

Lift 3

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point

Rainwater collection pool

Carding

Lift 2

Store

Lift 3 Store

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs Gallery 1

Stairs

Stairs

Lift

Gallery 1

Gallery 1

Lift

Lift

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Corridor/ Gallery 2 Corridor/ Gallery 2

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

Cafe Counter

Cafe Counter

WCs WCs

WCs

Baby change

Baby change

Baby change

Courtyard Courtyard

Courtyard

Gallery 3

NORTH STREET

NORTH STREET

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance Saville Row Entrance

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW SAVILLE ROW

SAVILLE ROW

Lift 2 Lift 2

Lift 3

Lift 3

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Lift 2

Lift 3

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Haberdashery Store

Fashion Exhibiton

Haberdashery Sore

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

STREET

STREET

Haberdashery Sore

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Carding

Haberdashery Sore

Store

Timber Arched Entrance Timber Arched Entrance

Lift 2

Store

Lift 2

Store

Lift 3

Lift 3

Stairs Gallery 4

Reception

Stairs Gallery 4

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Reception

Lift

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Lift

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Balcony area - protected by glass windows which can be slid down to open it up to the elements

Fire Escape Sairs

Rainwater collection pool

BOH Lift

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point

Balcony area - protected by glass windows which can be slid down to open it up to the elements

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Rainwater collection pool Gallery 6/ Function Room

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

Gallery 6/ Function Room

Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

Storage

Lobby BOH

WCs

Women's WCs WCs Fire Escape Sairs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms

Fire Escape Sairs

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs

Storage

Lobby BOH

BOH Lift

Corridor

Locker Room

Clothes Store

STREET

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store Entrance Lobby

Corridor JOHN DOBSON STREET

Stairs

Locker Room

Storage

HEMP WAY

Carding

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

Locker Room

Storage

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Gallery 1

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Clothes Store

Visitor Lift

Stairs

JOHN DOBSON STREET

Deliveries Visitor Lift

Gallery 5

Stairs

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Gallery 5

Stairs

Carding

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Stairs

STREET

Entrance Lobby

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

STREET

Deliveries

Storage

Changing Rooms

Cl.St

Changing Rooms

Visitor Lift

Timber Arched Entrance

Baby change

Women's WCs

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Clothes Store

Storage

Lobby BOH

Baby change

BOH Lift Carding

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance Lift

Stairs Gallery 1

Stairs

Lift

Gallery 1 Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Lift

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe Counter

Corridor/ Gallery 2

WCs

Corridor/ Gallery 2 Cafe Counter

Baby change

Cafe Counter

WCs

Courtyard

WCs Baby change

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Baby change

Courtyard

Courtyard NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

Saville Row Entrance

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

SAVILLE ROW

SAVILLE ROW

Lift 2

Clothes Rental Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Lift 3

Photography Exhibition

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

STREET

Haberdashery Sore

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Clothes Shop

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 3

Timber Arched Entrance

Lift 2

Store

Lift 2

Store

Lift 3

Gallery 4

Lift 3

Stairs

Reception Lift

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Balcony area - protected by glass windows which can be slid down to open it up to the elements

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool Fire Escape Sairs

Gallery 6/ Function Room

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point

Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Rainwater collection pool

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Storage

Lobby BOH

WCs BOH Lift

Women's WCs Baby change

Cl.St

Changing Rooms

Fire Escape Sairs

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Locker Room

Storage

BOH Lift

Cl.St

Changing Rooms

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries Visitor Lift

Locker Room

Storage

Stairs

Carding

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Clothes Store

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Visitor Lift

Stairs

Corridor

Locker Room

Storage

Gallery 1

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Lift

JOHN DOBSON STREET

Clothes Store

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs

Carding

Gallery 5

Changing Rooms

Women's WCs

Corridor

HEMP WAY

STREET

Stairs

Storage

STREET

STREET

Storage

Lobby BOH BOH Lift

Entrance Lobby

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries Visitor Lift

Lobby BOH

Fire Escape Sairs Clothes Store

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Stairs

Carding

Timber Arched Entrance

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs

Covered Outdoor Seating

Gallery 1

Cafe

Lift

Stairs Gallery 1

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Lift

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe Counter

WCs

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Baby change

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

Courtyard

WCs Cafe Counter

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Baby change

WCs Courtyard Baby change

NORTH STREET

Courtyard Gallery 3

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

Saville Row Entrance

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

SAVILLE ROW

SAVILLE ROW

Lift 2

Lift 3

Lift 2

Lift 3

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

2nd Hand Clothes Shop

Photography Studio

STREET

Haberdashery Sore

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

STREET

Deliveries

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Timber Arched Entrance

Lift 2

Store

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 3

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs Gallery 4

Reception Lift

Stairs

Lift 2

StoreReception

Gallery 4

Lift 3

Lift

Balcony area - protected by glass windows which can be slid down to open it up to the elements

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Gallery 6/ Function Room Balcony area - protected by glass windows which can be slid down to open it up to the elements

Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

WCs

Fire Escape Sairs

Baby change

Gallery 6/ Function Room

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Storage

Lobby

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

WCs

BOH BOH Lift

Baby change

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms Gallery 5

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs

Fire Escape Sairs

Storage

Lobby

Men's WCs

Lift 1

Corridor

Stairs

Storage

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs STREET

Entrance Lobby

Locker Room

HEMP WAY

Carding

Clothes Store

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

Visitor Lift

JOHN DOBSON STREET

Cafe Counter Timber Arched Entrance

Gallery 5

BOH Lift

Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries Visitor Lift

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Clothes Store

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

STREET

BOH Carding

Locker Room

Storage

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Gallery 1 Lift

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

WCs

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Baby change

Cafe Counter

Courtyard

Baby change

WCs NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

SAVILLE ROW

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Storage

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Cafe

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 3 Lift 2

Store

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Fire Escape Sairs

Fire Escape Sairs BOH Lift

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Storage

Lobby BOH

Women's WCs

BOH Lift

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Clothes Store

Entrance Lobby

STREET

Corridor

Locker Room

Carding

Clothes Store

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Visitor Lift

Stairs

Corridor JOHN DOBSON STREET

JOHN DOBSON STREET

Stairs

Storage

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs

Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries Visitor Lift

Cl.St

Changing Rooms

Men's WCs

Lift 1

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

STREET

Stairs

Timber Arched Entrance

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms

Carding

Lift 3

Storage

Lobby BOH

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

BEHIND THE SEAMS -

Locker Room

Storage

HEMP WAY Timber Arched Entrance

HEMP WAY

Stairs Gallery 1

Stairs Lift

Gallery 1 Lift

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Corridor/ Gallery 2 Corridor/ Gallery 2 Cafe Counter

Cafe Counter

WCs WCs Baby change

Baby change

Courtyard Courtyard

NORTH STREET

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW SAVILLE ROW

B1

WCs and Lockers

WCs

B2

B3 59


ZONING PLANS- BASEMENT LEVELS

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Haberdashery Sore

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 3

Lift 2

Store

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Rainwater collection pool

Fire Escape Sairs

Lift 3

Lift 2

Store

Lift 3

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Rainwater collection pool

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Storage

Lobby BOH BOH Lift

Women's WCs Fire Escape Sairs

Cl.St

Clothes Store

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Locker Room

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Carding

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Clothes Store

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Visitor Lift

Stairs

Corridor

Locker Room

Storage

Timber Arched Entrance

JOHN DOBSON STREET

JOHN DOBSON STREET

Stairs

Storage

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries Visitor Lift

HEMP WAY

Stairs

Storage

Changing Rooms

STREET

STREET

Carding

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Locker Room

BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs

Corridor JOHN DOBSON STREET

Stairs

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Entrance Lobby

Lobby BOH

BOH Lift

Changing Rooms

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Storage

HEMP WAY

Gallery 1 Lift

Stairs

Stairs

Gallery 1

Gallery 1 Lift

Covered Outdoor Seating

Lift

Cafe

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Cafe Counter

Corridor/ Gallery 2

WCs

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

Baby change

Cafe Counter

WCs

WCs

Courtyard Baby change

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Baby change

Courtyard

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

Saville Row Entrance

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

SAVILLE ROW

SAVILLE ROW

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Storage

Storage

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Fire Escape Sairs

Lift 3

Storage

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Storage

Lobby BOH BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms Disabled WC & Baby Change

STREET

Stairs

Carding

Clothes Store

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Visitor Lift

Stairs

Corridor

Locker Room

Storage

Timber Arched Entrance

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

STREET

Fire Escape Sairs

Storage

BOH Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs

Clothes Store

Visitor Lift

Timber Arched Entrance

Lobby

Cl.St

Changing Rooms

Carding

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

BEHIND THE SEAMS -

HEMP WAY

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

WCs

Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

Lockers & WCs

B1

B2

B3 60


ZONING PLANS- LEVELS 0.5+01 B2 & LEVEL 01 B3

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Haberdashery Sore

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Fire Escape Sairs

Lift 3

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Rainwater collection pool

Fire Escape Sairs

Storage

Lobby

Storage

Lobby

BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Cl.St

STREET

Corridor

Locker Room

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

Visitor Lift

Locker Room

Storage

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Cl.St

Clothes Store

JOHN DOBSON STREET

JOHN DOBSON STREET

Stairs

Carding

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Entrance Lobby

Storage

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries Visitor Lift

Women's WCs

Changing Rooms

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs STREET

Lift 3

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

BOH BOH Lift

Changing Rooms

Clothes Store

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Lift 2

Store

BOH

Carding

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs

Stairs

Gallery 1

Gallery 1 Lift

Lift

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

Cafe Counter

WCs

WCs

Baby change

Baby change

Courtyard

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

SAVILLE ROW

Lift 2

Lift 3

Lift 2

Lift 3

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Lift 2

Store

Timber Arched Entrance

Lift 3

Stairs Gallery 4

Reception

Balcony area - protected by glass windows which can be slid down to open it up to the elements

Reception Lift

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Rainwater collection pool

Balcony area - protected by glass windows which can be slid down to open it up to the elements

Gallery 6/ Function Room

Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

WCs Fire Escape Sairs

Baby change

BOH BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Women's WCs

Corridor JOHN DOBSON STREET

Stairs

Locker Room

Carding

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

Visitor Lift

Locker Room

Storage

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Clothes Store

JOHN DOBSON STREET

Entrance Lobby

Storage

Gallery 5

STREET

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries Visitor Lift

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Clothes Store

Cl.St

Changing Rooms

Cl.St Disabled WC & Baby Change

Gallery 5

Stairs STREET

Storage

Lobby

Baby change

BOH Lift

Changing Rooms

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Gallery 6/ Function Room

Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

WCs

Storage

Lobby BOH

Carding

Lift 3

Stairs Gallery 4

Lift

Fire Escape Sairs

FashionExhibition

Haberdashery Sore

STREET

STREET NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Lift 2

Store

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Workshops

Haberdashery Sore

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs Stairs

Gallery 1

Gallery 1

Lift Lift

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

Cafe Counter

WCs WCs Baby change

Baby change

Courtyard Courtyard

NORTH STREET

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

SAVILLE ROW

Lift 2

STREET

Haberdashery Sore

Photography Exhibition

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

STREET

Tailors

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Lift 3

Lift 3

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Lift 2

Haberdashery Sore

Timber Arched Entrance Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs Gallery 4

Stairs Gallery 4

Reception

Reception Lift 2

Lift

Store

Gallery 6/ Function Room

Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Lift 3

Gallery 6/ Function Room

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Lift 2

Lift

Store

Lift 3

Balcony area - protected by glass windows which can be slid down to open it up to the elements

Balcony area - protected by glass windows which can be slid down to open it up to the elements

Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

WCs

WCs Baby change

Baby change

Fire Escape Sairs Fire Escape Sairs

BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Women's WCs

STREET JOHN DOBSON STREET

Locker Room

Storage

Carding

Clothes Store

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Corridor

Stairs

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

Visitor Lift

JOHN DOBSON STREET

Entrance Lobby

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries Visitor Lift

Cl.St

Changing Rooms

Cl.St Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs STREET

Gallery 5

BOH

Gallery 5 BOH Lift

Changing Rooms

Clothes Store

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Storage

Lobby

Storage

Lobby BOH

Carding

Locker Room

Storage

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs Stairs

Gallery 1

Gallery 1

Lift Lift

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

Cafe Counter

WCs WCs Baby change

Baby change

Courtyard Courtyard NORTH STREET

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW SAVILLE ROW

Lift 2 Lift 2

Lift 3

Lift 3

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Viewing Gallery

Haberdashery Sore

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

STREET NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Lift 2

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

STREET

Library

Haberdashery Sore

Store

Lift 3

Lift 2

Store

Lift 3

Timber Arched Entrance Timber Arched Entrance

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool Gallery 4

Storage

Rainwater Recycling Stairs

Stairs Gallery 4

Reception

Reception Lift Lift

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point

Fire Escape Sairs

Balcony area - protected by glass windows which can be slid down to open it up to the elements

Lobby BOH

Gallery 6/ Function Room

Cl.St WCs

Disabled WC & Baby Change

WCs

Fire Escape Sairs

Storage

Lobby

BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Clothes Rental Store Entrance Lobby

JOHN DOBSON STREET

Locker Room Gallery 5

Cl.St

Changing Rooms

Corridor

Stairs

Storage

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs Gallery 5

STREET

Deliveries Visitor Lift

Carding

Clothes Store

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Visitor Lift

Stairs

Corridor JOHN DOBSON STREET

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Baby change

Men's WCs

Lift 1

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

STREET

BOH Baby change

Clothes Store

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Gallery 6/ Function Room

Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

Women's WCs

Stairs

Carding

Rainwater collection pool

Balcony area - protected by glass windows which can be slid down to open it up to the elements

Storage

Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

BOH Lift

Changing Rooms

Locker Room

Storage

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Timber Arched Entrance

HEMP WAY

Stairs Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Gallery 1 Lift

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

WCs Corridor/ Gallery 2

Baby change

Cafe Counter

Courtyard WCs NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

SAVILLE ROW

Cafe

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Fire Escape Sairs

Circulation

Lift 3

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Storage

Lobby BOH BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms Disabled WC & Baby Change

STREET

Stairs

Carding

Clothes Store

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Visitor Lift

Stairs

Corridor

Locker Room

Storage

Timber Arched Entrance

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

BEHIND THE SEAMS -

HEMP WAY

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

WCs

Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

Circulation

B2

B3 61


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

ZONING PLANS- LEVEL 01 B1 & LEVELS 1.5+02 B2

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Haberdashery Sore Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Rainwater collection pool

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Fire Escape Sairs Fire Escape Sairs

BOH BOH Lift

BOH Lift

STREET JOHN DOBSON STREET

Locker Room

Storage

Carding

Clothes Store

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Corridor

Stairs

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

Visitor Lift

JOHN DOBSON STREET

Entrance Lobby

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries Visitor Lift

Cl.St

Changing Rooms

Cl.St Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs STREET

Women's WCs

Women's WCs

Changing Rooms

Clothes Store

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Lift 3

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Storage

Lobby

Storage

Lobby BOH

Carding

Lift 2

Store

Lift 3

Locker Room

Storage

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs Stairs

Gallery 1

Gallery 1

Lift Lift

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

Cafe Counter

WCs WCs Baby change

Baby change

Courtyard Courtyard NORTH STREET

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW SAVILLE ROW

Lift 2 Lift 2

Lift 3

Lift 3

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Demonstration space

Workshop

Haberdashery Sore

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

STREET

STREET

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Lift 3

Lift 2

Store

Lift 3

Timber Arched Entrance Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs Gallery 4

Stairs Gallery 4

Lift Rainwater collection pool

Rainwater collection pool

Balcony area - protected by glass windows which can be slid down to open it up to the elements

Fire Escape Sairs

Storage

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Locker Room

Clothes Store

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Deliveries

Clothes Rental Store

Gallery 5

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

Visitor Lift

Locker Room

Storage

HEMP WAY

JOHN DOBSON STREET

JOHN DOBSON STREET

Stairs

Gallery 5

Carding

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Storage

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs STREET

Stairs

Visitor Lift

Cl.St

Changing Rooms

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Clothes Store

Women's WCs

Baby change

Cl.St Baby change

Timber Arched Entrance

WCs

BOH Lift

Women's WCs

WCs

STREET

Storage

BOH BOH Lift

Changing Rooms

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Gallery 6/ Function Room

Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

Lobby

BOH

Carding

Lift

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Gallery 6/ Function Room

Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

Lobby

Reception

Reception Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point

Balcony area - protected by glass windows which can be slid down to open it up to the elements

Fire Escape Sairs

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs

Stairs

Gallery 1

Gallery 1 Lift

Lift

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

Cafe Counter

WCs

WCs

Baby change

Baby change

Courtyard

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

SAVILLE ROW

Lift 2

Lift 3

Lift 2

Viewing Balcony

Artisan Studios

STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Haberdashery Sore

UP

Haberdashery Sore

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Lift 3

Timber Arched Entrance

Timber Arched Entrance

Store

Lift 2

Store

Stairs Gallery 4

Lift 2

Reception

DN

Lift 3

Gallery 4

Lift

Balcony area - protected by glass windows which can be slid down to open it up to the elements

Gallery 6/ Function Room

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Gallery 6/ Function Room

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point

Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Rainwater collection pool

WCs

Baby change

Fire Escape Sairs

Storage

Lobby BOH

Storage

Lobby

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

WCs

Baby change

Fire Escape Sairs

BOH Lift

Women's WCs

BOH Gallery 5

BOH Lift

Gallery 5

Women's WCs

STREET

STREET

Locker Room

Storage

Carding

Clothes Store

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Corridor

Stairs

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

Visitor Lift

JOHN DOBSON STREET

Entrance Lobby

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries Visitor Lift

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs

Clothes Store

Cl.St

Changing Rooms

Cl.St

Changing Rooms

Carding

Lift 3

Stairs

Reception

Lift

Balcony area - protected by glass windows which can be slid down to open it up to the elements

Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

Locker Room

Storage

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs Gallery 1

Stairs

Lift

Gallery 1 Lift

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

WCs

Cafe Counter

Baby change

WCs

Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Courtyard Gallery 3

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

SAVILLE ROW

Lift 2

Lift 3

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Flexible Event Space

STREET

Haberdashery Sore

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

WCs

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Haberdashery Sore

Timber Arched Entrance

Lift 2

Store

Lift 3

Stairs Gallery 4

Reception Lift

Lift 2

Store

Lift 3

Hand Clothes Store Balcony area - protected bySecond glass windows & itCollection which can be slid down to open up to the Point elements

Storage

Rainwater Rainwater Gallery 6/ Function Room collection pool Recycling

Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

WCs

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Baby change

Fire Escape Sairs

Storage

Lobby BOH BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms

Gallery 5

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Fire Escape Sairs

STREET

Stairs Storage

Lobby

BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Disabled WC & Baby Change

STREET

Stairs

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

Visitor Lift

Locker Room

Storage

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Visitor Lift

Stairs

Corridor JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Clothes Store

Clothes Store

JOHN DOBSON STREET

Cl.St

Changing Rooms

Carding

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

BOH

Carding

Locker Room

Storage

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

HEMP WAY

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Stairs Gallery 1 Corridor/ Gallery 2

Lift

Cafe Counter

Covered Outdoor Seating

WCs

Cafe

Baby change

Corridor/ Gallery 2 Courtyard Cafe Counter

NORTH STREET

WCs Gallery 3 Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

SAVILLE ROW

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Circulation

WCs

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Fire Escape Sairs

Lift 3

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Storage

Lobby BOH BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms Disabled WC & Baby Change

STREET

Stairs

Carding

Clothes Store

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Visitor Lift

Stairs

Corridor

Locker Room

Storage

Timber Arched Entrance

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Timber Arched Entrance

HEMP WAY

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

WCs

Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

Circulation

B1

B2 62


ZONING PLANS- LEVEL 02 B1, LEVELS 2.5+03 & LEVEL 02 B3 NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Haberdashery Sore

Haberdashery Sore

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Lift 3

Lift 2

Store

Lift 3

Lift 2

Store

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Rainwater collection pool

Rainwater collection pool

Fire Escape Sairs

Fire Escape Sairs

Storage

Lobby

BOH

Entrance Lobby

STREET

Carding

Clothes Store

Storage

Lobby

BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

Locker Room

Storage

Carding

Clothes Store

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

Visitor Lift

JOHN DOBSON STREET

HEMP WAY

BOH

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries Visitor Lift

JOHN DOBSON STREET

JOHN DOBSON STREET

Locker Room

Timber Arched Entrance

Fire Escape Sairs

Cl.St Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs

Corridor

Stairs

Women's WCs

Changing Rooms

Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Storage

STREET

Cl.St

Men's WCs

Lift 1

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

STREET

BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs

Visitor Lift

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

BOH Lift

Changing Rooms

Clothes Store

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Storage

Lobby

BOH

Carding

Lift 3

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point

Locker Room

Storage

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs

Stairs

Gallery 1

Gallery 1 Lift

Lift Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe Counter

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

WCs

WCs Cafe Counter

Baby change

Baby change

WCs

Courtyard

Courtyard

Baby change

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

Saville Row Entrance

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

SAVILLE ROW

SAVILLE ROW

Lift 2

Lift 3

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Lift 2

Lift 2

Lift 3

Exhibition Space

Haberdashery Sore

STREET

Weaving

Haberdashery Sore

Store

Lift 3

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Spinning

Haberdashery Sore

Store

Lift 2

Store

Lift 3

Timber Arched Entrance Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Rainwater collection pool

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Stairs Gallery 4

Reception Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point

Fire Escape Sairs

Women's WCs

Entrance Lobby

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms

Corridor

Stairs

Baby change

Locker Room

Storage

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs

Carding

Clothes Store

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

Gallery 5

Visitor Lift

JOHN DOBSON STREET

JOHN DOBSON STREET

Locker Room

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Gallery 6/ Function Room

Storage

BOH Lift

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries Visitor Lift

STREET

STREET

STREET

Corridor

Stairs

Clothes Store

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Entrance Lobby

Storage

Lobby BOH

WCs Carding

JOHN DOBSON STREET

Deliveries Visitor Lift

Fire Escape Sairs

Cl.St Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

Women's WCs

Changing Rooms

Cl.St Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs

Lift Rainwater collection pool

Balcony area - protected by glass windows which can be slid down to open it up to the elements

BOH Lift

BOH Lift

Changing Rooms

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Storage

Lobby BOH

Storage

Lobby BOH

Clothes Store

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Fire Escape Sairs

Carding

Locker Room

Storage

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Gallery 1

Stairs

Lift

Gallery 1 Lift Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating Cafe Counter

Corridor/ Gallery 2

WCs

Cafe Counter

WCs

Baby change

Cafe Counter

Baby change

WCs

Courtyard

Courtyard

Baby change

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

Saville Row Entrance

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

SAVILLE ROW

SAVILLE ROW

Lift 2

Lift 3

Lift 2

Screening Room

Haberdashery Sore

STREET

STREET

Haberdashery Sore

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 3

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Design Studio

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Cafe

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs

Store

Gallery 4

Lift 2

Lift 3

Lift 2

Store

Timber Arched Entrance

Reception

Lift 3

Lift

Stairs

Lift 2

Store

Gallery 4

Lift 3

Reception Lift

Balcony area - protected by glass windows which can be slid down to open it up to the elements

Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

Gallery 6/ Function Room

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Rainwater collection pool

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Rainwater collection pool

Balcony area - protected by glass windows which can be slid down to open it up to the elements

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Gallery 6/ Function Room

Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

WCs

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point

Baby change

WCs

Fire Escape Sairs

Fire Escape Sairs

Storage

Lobby

Storage

Lobby

Baby change

BOH

BOH BOH Lift

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Clothes Store

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

Locker Room

Storage

Corridor JOHN DOBSON STREET

Stairs

Locker Room

Storage

Carding

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

Visitor Lift

Locker Room

Storage

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Gallery 5

Clothes Store

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs

Stairs

Gallery 1

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

JOHN DOBSON STREET

Entrance Lobby

Cl.St

Stairs

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries Visitor Lift

Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries Visitor Lift

Women's WCs

Changing Rooms

JOHN DOBSON STREET

STREET

STREET

Cl.St

Men's WCs

Lift 1

Carding

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Women's WCs

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Cl.St

Stairs BOH Lift

Changing Rooms

Clothes Store

BOH Lift

Women's WCs

STREET

Storage

Lobby BOH

Carding

Gallery 5

Changing Rooms

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Fire Escape Sairs

Gallery 1 Lift

Lift

Stairs Gallery 1 Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Lift

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe Counter

Cafe Counter

WCs

Corridor/ Gallery 2

WCs

Baby change

Baby change

Cafe Counter

Courtyard

Courtyard

WCs

Gallery 3

NORTH STREET

NORTH STREET

Baby change

Courtyard

Gallery 3

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

Saville Row Entrance

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

SAVILLE ROW

SAVILLE ROW

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

WCS

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Haberdashery Sore

Cafe

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Lift 2

Store

Cafe/ Exhibition Space

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 3

Lift 2

Store

Lift 3

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Rainwater collection pool

Rainwater collection pool

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Fire Escape Sairs

Lift 3

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Storage

Lobby BOH BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms

Disabled WC & Baby Change

STREET

Stairs

Clothes Store

Clothes Store

Entrance Lobby

BOH Lift

Corridor

Stairs

Locker Room

Storage

Men's WCs

Lift 1

Locker Room

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Cl.St Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs

Corridor JOHN DOBSON STREET

Stairs

Carding

Clothes Store

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Visitor Lift

Stairs

Corridor JOHN DOBSON STREET

Entrance Lobby

Storage

Women's WCs

Changing Rooms

Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries Visitor Lift

Storage

Lobby

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries Visitor Lift

JOHN DOBSON STREET

Cl.St

STREET

Women's WCs

Fire Escape Sairs BOH

Carding

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

BOH Lift

Changing Rooms

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Lobby

STREET

Storage

BOH

Carding

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs

Fire Escape Sairs

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Locker Room

Storage

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Timber Arched Entrance

HEMP WAY

HEMP WAY

Stairs

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Stairs

Gallery 1 Lift

Gallery 1 Lift

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

Covered Outdoor Seating

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Cafe

WCs Corridor/ Gallery 2

Baby change

Corridor/ Gallery 2 Cafe Counter

Courtyard Cafe Counter

WCs

NORTH STREET

WCs Gallery 3 Baby change

Baby change

Courtyard

Courtyard NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

Saville Row Entrance

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

SAVILLE ROW

SAVILLE ROW

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Lift 2

Circulation

WCs Lift 2

Lift 3

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Lift 3

Terrace

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Store

STREET

Haberdashery Sore

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs Gallery 4

Reception Lift

Fire Escape Sairs

Storage

Lobby BOH BOH Lift

Cl.St

Clothes Store

Gallery 6/ Function Room

Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs

Carding

Balcony area - protected by glass windows which can be slid down to open it up to the elements

Women's WCs

Changing Rooms

STREET

Timber Arched Entrance

Men's WCs

Lift 1

WCs

Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Visitor Lift

Stairs

Corridor JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

BEHIND THE SEAMS -

Locker Room

Storage

Baby change

Gallery 5

Timber Arched Entrance

HEMP WAY

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

WCs

Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

Circulation

B1

B2

B3 63


ZONING PLANS- LEVEL 03 B1 & LEVELS 3.5+04 B2

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Fire Escape Sairs

Lift 3

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Storage

Lobby BOH BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms Disabled WC & Baby Change

STREET

Stairs

Carding

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

Visitor Lift

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Clothes Store

Locker Room

Storage

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

WCs

Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Demonstration Space

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Fabric Finishing

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 3

Lift 2

Store

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Fire Escape Sairs

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Rainwater collection pool

Fire Escape Sairs

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Storage

Lobby BOH

BOH Lift

Women's WCs

BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms

Cl.St

Changing Rooms

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs

Disabled WC & Baby Change

STREET

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

Visitor Lift

Locker Room

Storage

Carding

Clothes Store

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

Visitor Lift

JOHN DOBSON STREET

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Clothes Store

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

STREET

Stairs Carding

Lift 3

Storage

Lobby BOH

Locker Room

Storage

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs Gallery 1

Stairs Lift

Gallery 1 Lift

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating Corridor/ Gallery 2

Corridor/ Gallery 2 Cafe Counter

Cafe Counter

WCs

WCs Baby change

Baby change

Courtyard

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

SAVILLE ROW

Lift 2

Lift 3

Viewing Balcony

STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Haberdashery Sore

Pattern Cutting

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Haberdashery Sore

Timber Arched Entrance

Lift 2

Store

Lift 2

Store

Lift 3

Lift 3

Stairs Gallery 4

Reception Lift

Balcony area - protected by glass windows which can be slid down to open it up to the elements

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point

Gallery 6/ Function Room

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point

Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

Rainwater collection pool

Rainwater collection pool

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

WCs

Baby change

Fire Escape Sairs

Fire Escape Sairs

BOH BOH Lift

BOH Lift

STREET

JOHN DOBSON STREET

Locker Room

Carding

Clothes Store

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Corridor

Stairs

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

Visitor Lift

JOHN DOBSON STREET

Entrance Lobby

Storage

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries Visitor Lift

Cl.St

Changing Rooms

Cl.St Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs STREET

Women's WCs

Women's WCs Gallery 5

Changing Rooms

Clothes Store

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Storage

Lobby

Storage

Lobby BOH

Carding

Locker Room

Storage

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs Gallery 1

Stairs

Lift

Gallery 1 Lift

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Corridor/ Gallery 2 Cafe Counter

Cafe Counter

WCs

WCs Baby change

Baby change

Courtyard

Courtyard NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

SAVILLE ROW

Lift 2

Lift 3

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Haberdashery Sore

Seating

STREET

Haberdashery Sore

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

WCs

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Lift 2

Store

Timber Arched Entrance

Lift 3

Stairs Gallery 4

Reception Lift

Lift 2

Store

Lift 3

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Balcony area - protected by glass windows which can be slid down to open it up to the elements

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Gallery 6/ Function Room

Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

WCs

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point

Fire Escape Sairs Rainwater collection pool

Storage

Lobby

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Baby change

BOH BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs Gallery 5

STREET

Storage

Lobby

BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Clothes Store

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

Locker Room

Storage

Men's WCs

Lift 1

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Stairs

Corridor JOHN DOBSON STREET

Visitor Lift

Locker Room

Storage

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

HEMP WAY Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Cafe Counter

WCs

Covered Outdoor Seating

Baby change

Cafe

Courtyard

Corridor/ Gallery 2

NORTH STREET

Cafe Counter

Gallery 3 WCs

Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

SAVILLE ROW

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Circulation

WCs

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Fire Escape Sairs

Lift 3

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Storage

Lobby BOH BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms Disabled WC & Baby Change

STREET

Stairs

Carding

Clothes Store

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Visitor Lift

Stairs

Corridor

Locker Room

Storage

Timber Arched Entrance

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

STREET

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries Visitor Lift

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Stairs

Timber Arched Entrance

Clothes Store

JOHN DOBSON STREET

BOH

Changing Rooms

Carding

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Fire Escape Sairs

Carding

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

BEHIND THE SEAMS -

HEMP WAY

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

WCs

Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

Circulation

B1

B2 64


ZONING PLANS- LEVELS 4.5+05 B2

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Fire Escape Sairs

Lift 3

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Storage

Lobby BOH BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms Disabled WC & Baby Change

STREET

Stairs

Carding

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Clothes Store

Visitor Lift

Locker Room

Storage

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

WCs

Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Garment Production

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Fire Escape Sairs

Lift 3

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Storage

Lobby BOH BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms Disabled WC & Baby Change

STREET

Stairs

Carding

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

Visitor Lift

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Clothes Store

Locker Room

Storage

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

WCs

Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

Lift 2

Lift 3

Staff Room and Cafeteria

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Haberdashery Sore

Timber Arched Entrance

Lift 2

Stairs

Reception Store

Gallery 4

Lift 3

Lift

Balcony area - protected by glass windows which can be slid down to open it up to the elements

Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

Gallery 6/ Function Room Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

WCs

Baby change

Fire Escape Sairs

Storage

Lobby BOH BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Gallery 5

Cl.St

Changing Rooms Disabled WC & Baby Change

STREET

Stairs

Carding

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Clothes Store

Visitor Lift

Locker Room

Storage

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

WCs

Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

Lift 2

Lift 3

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Changing Rooms

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

STREET

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Lift 3

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs Gallery 4

Reception Lift

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Balcony area - protected by glass windows which can be slid down to open it up to the elements

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Gallery 6/ Function Room

Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

Fire Escape Sairs

Storage

Lobby

WCs

BOH BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Baby change

Cl.St

Changing Rooms Disabled WC & Baby Change

STREET

Stairs

Carding

Men's WCs

Lift 1

Gallery 5

Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Clothes Store

Visitor Lift

Locker Room

Storage

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

WCs

Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

WCs

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Fire Escape Sairs

Lift 3

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Storage

Lobby BOH BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms Disabled WC & Baby Change

STREET

Stairs

Carding

Clothes Store

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Visitor Lift

Stairs

Corridor

Locker Room

Storage

Timber Arched Entrance

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

BEHIND THE SEAMS -

HEMP WAY

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

WCs

Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

Circulation

B2 65


ZONING PLANS- LEVELS 5.5+06 B2

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Fire Escape Sairs

Lift 3

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Storage

Lobby BOH BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms Disabled WC & Baby Change

STREET

Stairs

Carding

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Clothes Store

Visitor Lift

Locker Room

Storage

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

WCs

Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Packaging

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Fire Escape Sairs

Lift 3

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Storage

Lobby BOH BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms Disabled WC & Baby Change

STREET

Stairs

Carding

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Clothes Store

Visitor Lift

Locker Room

Storage

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

WCs

Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

Lift 2

Lift 3

Office

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

STREET

Haberdashery Sore

Timber Arched Entrance

Lift 2

Store

Lift 3

Stairs Gallery 4

Reception Lift

Balcony area - protected by glass windows which can be slid down to open it up to the elements

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool Gallery 6/ Function Room

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

WCs

Fire Escape Sairs

Storage

Baby change

Lobby BOH BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms

STREET

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Gallery 5

Stairs

Carding

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Clothes Store

Visitor Lift

Locker Room

Storage

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

WCs

Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

Lift 2

Lift 3

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Viewing Balcony

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

STREET

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Timber Arched Entrance

Lift 3

Stairs Gallery 4

Reception Lift

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Balcony area - protected by glass windows which can be slid down to open it up to the elements

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Gallery 6/ Function Room

Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

WCs

Fire Escape Sairs

Storage

Lobby

Baby change

BOH BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms

STREET

Stairs

Carding

Disabled WC & Baby Change

Gallery 5

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Clothes Store

Visitor Lift

Locker Room

Storage

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

WCs

Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

WCs

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Fire Escape Sairs

Lift 3

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Storage

Lobby BOH BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms Disabled WC & Baby Change

STREET

Stairs

Carding

Clothes Store

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Visitor Lift

Stairs

Corridor

Locker Room

Storage

Timber Arched Entrance

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

BEHIND THE SEAMS -

HEMP WAY

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

WCs

Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

Circulation

B2 66


ZONING PLANS- LEVELS 6.5+07 B2

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Fire Escape Sairs

Lift 3

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Storage

Lobby BOH BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms Disabled WC & Baby Change

STREET

Stairs

Carding

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Clothes Store

Visitor Lift

Locker Room

Storage

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

WCs

Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

Lift 2

Lift 3

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Roof Top Bar

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

STREET

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Lift 3

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs Gallery 4

Reception Lift

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point

Rainwater collection pool

Balcony area - protected by glass windows which can be slid down to open it up to the elements

Fire Escape Sairs

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Gallery 6/ Function Room

Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

Lobby

Storage

BOH WCs

BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Baby change

Cl.St

Changing Rooms Disabled WC & Baby Change

STREET

Stairs

Carding

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Deliveries

Clothes Rental Store

Gallery 5

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

Visitor Lift

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Clothes Store

Locker Room

Storage

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

WCs

Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

Lift 2

Lift 3

Roof Top Garden

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Haberdashery Sore

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs Gallery 4

Reception

Lift 2

Store

Lift 3

Lift

Balcony area - protected by glass windows which can be slid down to open it up to the elements

Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

Gallery 6/ Function Room

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

WCs

Baby change

Fire Escape Sairs

Storage

Lobby BOH Gallery 5

BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms Disabled WC & Baby Change

STREET

Stairs

Carding

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Corridor

Stairs

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Clothes Store

Visitor Lift

Locker Room

Storage

HEMP WAY

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Cafe

Covered Outdoor Seating

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

WCs

Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

WCs

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Fire Escape Sairs

Lift 3

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Storage

Lobby BOH BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms Disabled WC & Baby Change

STREET

Stairs

Carding

Clothes Store

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Visitor Lift

Stairs

Corridor

Locker Room

Storage

Timber Arched Entrance

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

BEHIND THE SEAMS -

HEMP WAY

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

WCs

Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

Circulation

B2 67


ZONING PLANS- LEVEL 7.5+08 B2

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Fire Escape Sairs

Lift 3

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Storage

Lobby BOH BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms Disabled WC & Baby Change

STREET

Stairs

Clothes Store

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Visitor Lift

Stairs

Corridor

Locker Room

Storage

Timber Arched Entrance

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Carding

HEMP WAY

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

WCs

Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

Lift 2

Lift 3

STREET

Viewing Tower

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

BEHIND THE SEAMS -

Timber Arched Entrance

Stairs Gallery 4

Reception Lift

Balcony area - protected by glass windows which can be slid down to open it up to the elements

Gallery 6/ Function Room

Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

WCs

Baby change

Gallery 5

B2 68


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

LINK BETWEEN GROWING & PRODUCTION

The design in the context of Newcastle City Centre. Showing the link between the hemp growing and the new ‘Behind the Seams’ production and creativity centre on the high street. 69


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

VIEW OF HEMP GROWING FROM THE PUBLIC VIEWING TOWER

Hemp Growing Site

You Are Here

70


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

PRODUCTION RIGHT ON THE HIGH STREET

71


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

PRODUCTION RIGHT ON THE HIGH STREET - PUBLIC REALM CONNECTION

John Dobson Street

Northumberland High Street

Northumberland Road

N orth S

treet

Hemp Way

Saville Row

N

Existing

Renovated/ New

0

5

10

20m

72


BUILDING 1- RENOVATION OF EMPTY RETAIL STORE

Northumberland Highstreet

BEHIND THE SEAMS -

Fire Escape Stair

BOH BOH Lift

Carding

Clothes Shop Stairs Deliveries Public Lift

Storage NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Fire Escape Sairs

Lift 3

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Storage

Lobby BOH BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms Disabled WC & Baby Change

STREET

Stairs

Clothes Store

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Visitor Lift

Stairs

Corridor

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Carding

Locker Room

Storage

Timber Arched Entrance

HEMP WAY

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

WCs

Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

Arched Entrance NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

STREET

Lift 2

Timber Arched Entrance

Hemp Way

Lift 3

Carding

Clothes Shop

Stairs Gallery 4

Reception Lift

Balcony area - protected by glass windows which can be slid down to open it up to the elements

Gallery 6/ Function Room

The first processing stage of the hemp fabric, highlighting how fabrics begin as fibres before being spun and woven into the textile that’s used to produce the final garment. Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

WCs

Baby change

Gallery 5

Glass walls between the shop and the production area allow shoppers to see the carding process helping to reinforce the origins of the hemp and recycled fabric clothes on the shop rails.

0

1

2

3

4

5

10m

73


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

BUILDING 1- PUBLIC INTERACTION WITH PRODUCTION

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Fire Escape Sairs

Lift 3

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Storage

Lobby BOH BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms Disabled WC & Baby Change

STREET

Stairs

Clothes Store

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Visitor Lift

Stairs

Corridor

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Carding

Locker Room

Storage

Timber Arched Entrance

HEMP WAY

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

WCs

Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

STREET

Lift 2

Timber Arched Entrance

Lift 3

Demonstration spaces Stairs

Gallery 4

Reception

Lift

Balcony area - protected by glass windows which can be slid down to open it up to the elements

Gallery 6/ Function Room

Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

WCs

Baby change

Step Inside the Production

^ See the carding production taking place while shopping

Gallery 5

Opportunities on levels 01 & 02 to learn more about the processes of carding and spinning and get hands on experience, being able to try tradional methods for oneself.

Open observation balconies enabling the public to safely enter into the production spaces and experience the noise, smell and heat of the machines whirring away.

For those interested in mastering the skills, classes and workshops are on offer in Building 2

Step inside the production rooms via balconies to experience the heat, smell and noise > 74


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

BUILDING 2

75


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

BUILDING 2- RENOVATION OF EXISTING CARPARK

Stairs 3

Stairs 4

Clothes Rental

Second Hand Clothes Store

Northumberland Road

Hemp Way

Main Entrance

Central Lightwell & Rainwater Collection Stairs 1

Lift 1

Rainwater Storage & Greywater Recycling Haberdashery Store

Male WCs

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Female WCs

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Fire Escape Sairs

Dis. WC

Lift 3

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Storage

Lobby BOH BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms Disabled WC & Baby Change

STREET

Stairs

Clothes Store

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Visitor Lift

Stairs

Corridor

Locker Room

Storage

Timber Arched Entrance

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Carding

Storage

HEMP WAY

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

WCs

Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

Haberdashery Store

E n c o u r a g i n g people to not just buy new but to buy second hand and/ or embrace clothes rental. This satisfies ones desire to wear a ‘new’ outfit to an event, but at a fraction of the cost and at a benefit to the environment.

Lift 2

Lift 3

Stairs 2

cad-block.com

Enabling students from Northumbria University and other members of the public to purchase sustainable hemp and recycled textile yarns and fabrics, along with reclaimed buttons, accessories and other locally p r o d u c e d habedashery items. This encourages greater sustinability in fashion clothing.

Second Hand & Rental Clothes Stores

Lockers & Buggy Storage

John Dobson Street

0 1

2

3

4

5

10m

76


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

BUILDING 2- ENGAGEMENT WITH DESIGN AND MAKING

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Fire Escape Sairs

Lift 3

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Storage

Lobby BOH BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms Disabled WC & Baby Change

STREET

Stairs

Clothes Store

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Visitor Lift

Stairs

Corridor

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Carding

Locker Room

Storage

Timber Arched Entrance

HEMP WAY

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

WCs

Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

STREET

Lift 2

Timber Arched Entrance

Lift 3

Interaction with Designers Stairs

Gallery 4

Reception

Lift

Balcony area - protected by glass windows which can be slid down to open it up to the elements

Gallery 6/ Function Room

Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

WCs

Baby change

Classes and Workshops

Gallery 5

Visitors can see inside the design studios, engage with the designers and actually get involved in the creation of new clothes lines being made on the premises. Tailoring servicses are also available or visitors to encourage the mending, and adjusting of existing clothes just as much as injecting new clothes and designs intothe retail stream.

Open to people of all ages, a variety of classes can be hosted within the centre to enable those who would like to learn new skills such as weaving, and sewing. A chance for local artisans to also rent the spaces to showcase their designs and skills on the high street and to teach people new skills, encouraging greater creativity with textiles.

77


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

BUILDING 2- VIEW OF THE GARMENT PRODUCTION LINE

Key: Hemp insulation Recycled Textile insulation Existing New Production

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Fire Escape Sairs

Lift 3

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Storage

Lobby BOH BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms Disabled WC & Baby Change

STREET

Stairs

Clothes Store

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Visitor Lift

Stairs

Corridor

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Carding

Locker Room

Storage

Timber Arched Entrance

HEMP WAY

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

WCs

Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

STREET

Lift 2

Timber Arched Entrance

Lift 3

Garment Production Viewing Gallery

Cafe

Stairs

Gallery 4

Reception

Lift

Balcony area - protected by glass windows which can be slid down to open it up to the elements

Gallery 6/ Function Room

Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

WCs

Baby change

Gallery 5

Members of the public can view how garments are manufactured from specific viewing galleries which aim to continue to tell the story about where their clothes come from and how they’re produce.

Visitors can enjoy sitting down with a drink while hearing and seeing the buzz of activity around them. This provides an informal space to draw people in to socialise or work from; the longer one spends in the greater the understanding and appreciation of the time and skill involved of making clothes.

78


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

BUILDING 2 - FACADE

Materials: Hemp Insulation Recycled Textile Insulation Concrete (Existing) Timber (Reclaimed/ Locally Sourced) Aluminium

An Architectural Weave Inspired by the woven textiles of Anni Albers, the sliding facade panels create a continuously changing facade which moves in response to the activities going on within. The vertical and horizontal panels can be slid across to either open up or create more densely filled areas of the facade. This enables varying levels of solar shading and privacy where desired.

Glass NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Fire Escape Sairs

Lift 3

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Storage

Lobby BOH BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms Disabled WC & Baby Change

STREET

Stairs

Clothes Store

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Visitor Lift

Stairs

Corridor

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Carding

Locker Room

Storage

Timber Arched Entrance

HEMP WAY

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

WCs

Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

STREET

Lift 2

Timber Arched Entrance

Lift 3

Packaging Stairs Gallery 4

Reception Lift

Balcony area - protected by glass windows which can be slid down to open it up to the elements

Gallery 6/ Function Room

All labelling and packaging of the hemp and recycled textile yarns, fabrics and garments to be sold takes place in the building, keeping all stages of production and processing on site, so eliminating the need for any production cycle transportation. Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

WCs

Baby change

Staff Room & Cafeteria

Gallery 5

Space is provided to ensure that the production workers and other staff members involved in the running of Behind the Seams have somewhere to go to rest and eat during their breaks.

Sliding Facade Panels

79


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

BUILDING 3 -

HEMPCRETE NEW BUILD

80


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

BUILDING 3- HEMPCRETE NEW BUILD - SHOWCASING HEMPCRETE

Hempcrete Pitched Roof

Hempcrete showcased from the street through Offset Glass Curtain Wall

Materials:

Hempcrete Floor, finished with Reclaimed Timber Floor boards

Hempcrete Timber (Reclaimed/ Locally Sourced) Recliaimed Brick Glass Aluminium Vapour Barrier

Hempcrete clad with Reclaimed Bricks as a traditional form of weather protection

81


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

BUILDING 3- HEMPCRETE NEW BUILD -

FLEXIBLE GROUND FLOOR PLAN

Stairs

Lift Exhibition Space

Exhibition Space

Hempcrete connection with Existing Brick Wall

Exhibition Space & View into Photography Studio

Stairs

Exhibition Space

Hempcrete blocks to reinforce thermal efficiency of existing brick wall

Single Stud Hempcrete wall with reclaimed brick cladding

Double Stud Hempcrete wall with reclaimed brick cladding

0

1

2

3

4

5

10

GF - Exhibition

0

1

2

3

4

5

10

GF - Catwalk 82


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

BUILDING 3- HEMPCRETE NEW BUILD - LEVELS 01 & 02

Stairs

Lift Exhibition Space

Exhibition Space

Hempcrete Green Roof

Exhibition Space & View into Photography Studio

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD

Haberdashery Sore

Lift 2

Store

Second Hand Clothes Store & Collection Point Rainwater collection pool

Fire Escape Sairs

Lift 3

Storage

Rainwater Recycling

Storage

Lobby BOH BOH Lift

Women's WCs

Cl.St

Changing Rooms Disabled WC & Baby Change

STREET

Stairs

Clothes Store

Men's WCs

Lift 1 Clothes Rental Store

Deliveries

Entrance Lobby

Visitor Lift

Stairs

Corridor

JOHN DOBSON STREET

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

Carding

Locker Room

Storage

Timber Arched Entrance

HEMP WAY

Stairs Gallery 1 Lift

Covered Outdoor Seating

Cafe

Corridor/ Gallery 2

Cafe Counter

WCs

Baby change

Courtyard

NORTH STREET

Gallery 3

Saville Row Entrance

SAVILLE ROW

Stairs

NORTHUMBERLAND HIGH

STREET

Lift 2

Timber Arched Entrance

Lift 3

Showcasing of Fashion Stairs

Gallery 4

Reception

Lift

Balcony area - protected by glass windows which can be slid down to open it up to the elements

Gallery 6/ Function Room

Screens can be pulled across to create just a corridor

WCs

Baby change

Screening Room

Exhibition Space

Gallery 5

Exhibitions of designs produced by the fashion students and other local designers can be enjoyed with opportunites to watch fashion shoots and live catwalks as well.

Short film reels playing throughout the day revealing behind the scene insights into the fashion industry to help further educate visitors, with film nights organised to host feature length films and documentaries around fashion.

0

1

2

3

4

5

01 Plan

10

0

1

2

3

4

5

10

02 Plan 83


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

ENTERING INTO THE INTERNAL COURTYARD

84


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

SHOWCASING FASHION AND PRODUCTION

85


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

Saville Row

SECTION THROUGH THE WHOLE BLOCK

Hemp Way

Northumberland Road

Concept Sketches:

86


Bibliography


BEHIND THE SEAMS -

RESEARCH

Books:

Contacted:

Bravo, L. (2020). How to Break Up with Fast Fashion. London: Headline Home. Burgess, R. (2019). Fibershed. Vermont: Chelsea Green Publishing. Coxon, A, Fer, B & Muller-Schareck ed (2018). Anni Albers. London: Tate Publishing. Ehrman, E. (2018). Fashioned from Nature. London: Victoria & Albert Publishing. Korrholm, M. (2016). Retailising Space. London: Routledge. Koolhaas, R. (2001). Harvard Design School Guide to Shopping. Koln: Taschen. Little, T. (2018). The Future of Fashion. New Degree Press. Pilkington, M. (2019). Retail Therapy. London: Bloomsbury Business. Press. C (2018). Wardrobe Crisis. New York: Schwartz Publishing Pty Ltd. Stanwix, W. and Sparrow, A. (2014). The Hempcrete Book . Chicago: UIT Cambridge Ltd. St. Clair, K. (2018). The Golden Thread. London: John Murray. Thomas, D. (2019). Fashionopolis. London: Head of Zeus Ltd. Underhill, P. (2009). Why We Buy. 3rd ed. New York: Simon & Schuster.

Campell, Lesley. Northumbria University: PhD and Tutor. Christopolous, George. Jelton Far East: Director. Macrae, Kenny. Northumbria University: Fashion Department Technician. Sahajwalla, Veena. UNSW Sydney: Professor.

Articles: Jacobs, J. (1961). The Uses of Sidewalk: Safety. In The City Reader Kelbaugh, D. (2002). Critical Regionalism: An Architecture of Place, in The Urban Design Reader, 2nd Ed. White, M. (2018). Fast Fashion: Does it Represent the Future of the British Textile Industry? in The Manufacturer

Documentaries: Alex James: Slowing Down Fast Fashion. (2016). [film] Directed by B. Akers. Colin Offland. Watched 22nd January 2020. Bringing it Home: Industrial Hemp’s Past, Present and Future. (2013). [film] Directed by Linda Booker and Blaire Johnsom. Watched February 2nd 2020 Closing the Loop. (2018). [film] Directed by G. Ehlers Sheldon and R. Ehlers Sheldon. Graham Ehlers Sheldon. Watched 24th January 2020. The True Cost. (2015). [film] Directed by A. Morgan. Michael Ross. Watched 20th January 2020.

Podcasts: Press, C. (2019). What Will it Take to Fix Unsustainable Fashion? British MP Mary Creagh. Wardrobe Crisis: delivered 16th Oct., listened 11th Nov.

Talks: Gaskell, L. (2020). Haworth Tompkins. Newcastle: Northumbria University, delivered 11th February 2020. G4CUK (2019). Building Zero Carbon Future. Newcastle: Newcastle University Helix, delivered 17th October 2019. Steel, C. (2019). Sitopia. Newcastle: Newcastle University Fine Arts Lecture Theatre, delivered 6th November 2019. Thomas, D. (2020). Fashionopolis. London: Victoria & Albert Museum, delivered 14th February 2020.

Websites: AG, s. (n.d.). smartfiber AG: SeaCell<sup>TM</sup>. [online] Smartfiber.de. Available at: https://www.smartfiber.de/en/fibers/seacelltm/ [Accessed 31 Jan. 2020]. Amadou Leather. (n.d.). Amadou Leather. [online] Available at: https://www.amadouleather.com/ [Accessed 12 Jan. 2020]. Bosscontrols.com. (n.d.). [online] Available at: https://bosscontrols.com/buildings-impact-environment/ [Accessed 28 Jan. 2020]. Eco-Age (2019) The Green Carpet Challenge. [online]. Available at: https://eco-age.com/news/green-carpet-challenge [ Accessed Farra, E. (n.d.). Stella McCartney Sounds Off on Sustainability, Faux Leather, and the Lack of Honesty Around Both. [online] Vogue. Available at: https://www.vogue.com/article/stella-mccartney-sustainable-fashion-leather-conversation [Accessed 29 Jan. 2020]. Fashion Revolution. (n.d.). Home - Fashion Revolution. [online] Available at: https://www.fashionrevolution.org/ [Accessed 20 Nov. 2019]. Footprint.wwf.org.uk. (n.d). WWF Footprint Calculator. [online] Available at: https://www.footprint.wwf.org.uk/#/results/brokendown/ [Accessed 7 Oct. 2019]. Guide, B. (n.d.). Components or Elements of Green Building-Material, Water, Energy Health. [online] The Constructor. Available at: https:// theconstructor.org/building/elements-of-green-building/5375/ [Accessed 28 Jan. 2020]. hemp, e. (n.d.). 10 Economic Benefits of Hemp Farming. [online] evo hemp. Available at: https://evohemp.com/blogs/hempweek/10economic-benefits-of-hemp-farming [Accessed 30 Jan. 2020]. Hemp Houses | Bringing it Home Movie. [online] Available at: http://bringingithomemovie.com/hemp-houses [Accessed 27 Jan. 2020]. Hemp Tech Global. (n.d.). Hempcrete. [online] Available at: https://hemptechglobal.com/page15/page16/page16.html [Accessed 27 Jan. 2020]. Lava Reviews. (n.d.). The 7 types of shoppers. Which one are you?. [online] Available at: https://lavareviews.com/the-7-types-of-shopperswhich-one-are-you/ [Accessed 20 Nov. 2020]. Numero Magazine. (n.d.). Ethical Fashion series: the legendary Vivienne Westwood. [online] Available at: https://www.numero.com/en/ fashion/ethical-fashion-vivienne-westwood-climate-change-eco-friendly-fabrics-sustainable#_ [Accessed 28 Jan. 2020]. Orange Fiber. (n.d.). Fabrics - Orange Fiber. [online] Available at: http://orangefiber.it/en/fabrics/ [Accessed 31 Jan. 2020]. Pinatex, A. (n.d.). About Us - Pinatex . [online] Pinatex. Available at: https://www.ananas-anam.com/about-us/ [Accessed 31 Jan. 2020]. PROMOSTYL. (n.d.). Seaqual and Seacell, new eco-friendly fibres - PROMOSTYL. [online] Available at: https://promostyl.com/seaqual-etseacell-les-nouvelles-fibres-eco-responsables/?lang=en&cn-reloaded=1 [Accessed 31 Jan. 2020]. Rozas, A. (n.d.). Sustainable Textile Innovations: Coffee Ground fibre. [online] Fashionunited.uk. Available at: https://fashionunited.uk/news/ fashion/sustainable-textile-innovations-coffee-ground-fibre/2017061624856?_ga=2.124959242.121582530.1580494150-383277711.1580494150 [Accessed 31 Jan. 2020]. Stella McCartney. (n.d.). Sustainability | Stella McCartney. [online] Available at: https://www.stellamccartney.com/experience/en/ sustainability/ [Accessed 29 Jan. 2020]. UK Architects Declare Climate and Biodiversity Emergency. (n.d.). UK Architects Declare Climate and Biodiversity Emergency. [online] Available at: https://www.architectsdeclare.com/ [Accessed 07 Oct. 2019]. WWW.VIVIENNEWESTWOOD.COM. (n.d.). Our Approach | Vivienne Westwood. [online] Available at: https://www.viviennewestwood.com/en/ our-approach/ [Accessed 29 Jan. 2020]. Wrap.org.uk. (n.d.). Sustainable Textiles | WRAP UK . [online] Available at: http://www.wrap.org.uk/sustainable-textiles [Accessed 6 Feb. 2020].

Exhibitions: Beautiful Lace & Carine Gilson. Brussels: The Fashion & Lace Museum, visited 13th September 2019 Designing in Turbulent Times. London: Central Saint Martins Kings Cross, visited 26th October 2019 Dior Designer of Dreams. London: Victoria & Albert Museum, visited 13th July 2019 Food Bigger than the Plate. London: Victoria & Albert Museum, visited 27th July 2019 Mary Quant. London: Victoria & Albert Museum, visited 25th August 2019 Tim Walker Wonderful Things. London: Victoria & Albert Museum, visited 16th December 2019

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