Z11P4 by PDF Uploads

A Mercantile Spirit Hawick the Perpetual Frontier Michael Robinson

MArch 2020 Michael Robinson

The project that follows documents an introduction to the wool towns of the Scottish Borders, in particular Hawick 'Hoik', which was a prosperous mechanised weaving town on the Tiviot. The Tiviot and Tweed basin is a low lying fertile agricultural network, a nursery for hill sheep in winter, the monetized setting for abbeys who governed the lucrative wool trade; a refined water mechanism which profited from milling corn, tobacco and fleece. Long relying on its connections to industrious centres for the import of contemporary technical development, Hawick embraced an adaptable nature willing to exploit its position to elevate the populations horizon outside of a remote, provincial setting. Stobbs prisoner of war camp however stood testament to the provincial backwater that the Borders and in particular Hawick, has ultimately failed to overcome. The subsequent narrative therefor has relied upon a fabricated Highland identity. Cashmere woven on Parisian stocking frames before being exported to great fashion houses of Europe and weaving in the Scottish tradition, exporting the colours and texture of the boarders landscape to London, Milan; could not surmount the detached enclave that Tivedale has forever benefited from as much as it has suffered. The narrative Hawick peddled of Mercantile ambition suddenly changed regressing to blossoming provincial pride, blinkered to the outward industrial hope it once harboured. Hawicks mills now celebrate naive myths, Scottish tropes belonging to the gazing tourist. With industrial decline Hawick has become increasingly remote, it's provincial stature becoming stark with the repeated closer of woolen mills. However away from the scrutiny of modern mechanisms these communities may regain their control over the fiction. The opportunity I surmise is to rediscover Hawick as a setting for the production of textiles which contain the exportable character of its own mercantile ambition, capturing the embodied spirit of industrial towns familiar to the C.18.

CONTENTS 2. 4. 6-9. 10-13. 14-25. 26. 28-41. 45-79. 96-101. 102-106. 107-123. 128-134. 135. 136-137. 138-141. 142-149 150-179. 180-195. 196-211. 212-217. 218-225. 226-227. 230-241. 250-253.

Introduction Contents An Introduction to the Borders Waverley Railway Line Discovering the Borders through the northerly route Hawick Following a Diary The Rise and Fall The Board game map of the Borders Building on the periphery Hawick Brief Bibliography Inputs and outputs Site and materiality Production process Design development Developing plans Developing section Proposed 'long' section Relationships within proposed interiors Studios in Plan Proposed plan Conclusion

North of Hadrian’s Wall, that scythe which has defined the borders as untamed land which travellers should be weary; Hawick,’ Hoik’, its silent Mills, Cheviot Hill sheep, woven textiles, the ruins of great abbeys; lie dormant. Hemmed in by the red lined boarder, between England and Scotland (the Tiviot) this insular provincial valley, remains obstinately detached. Once the industrial woolen Centre of the Scott’s, Hawick now lies dormant.

A Mercantile Spirit Hawick the Perpetual Frontier

HAWICK

The Mercantile Spirit of Hawick Hawick is a product of Scotland. It reflects a unique aptitude for re-invention and romantic speculation. Famous for the production of stockings, notably by ‘Pringle of Scotland’, the tradition of weaving in border towns has lately become faint in the shadow of declining industry. The desire to create woollen products, refined luxury goods for export across the world, suggests ambition and relies upon the protection of the myths which complete the town’s identity. The postcard image of remote barren hills, Walter Scott’s Waverley

tales, Tartan and bleak winters are as much an ingredient of the product as it is the stone facades of the High Street. It’s a town built around import, production and export. Failing factories have snatched the worlds riches from Hawick’s grasp, leaving a community declining and increasingly remote. I surmise that Hawick has a defining character that will insure that its decline is not terminal. Its industrial sentiment enables fiction to manifest within the townscape and allows the town to build its future without polite scepticism. It’s mercantile spirit implies ambition.

Clockwise from left The machines of industrial Hawick, the games of the world board; Abbeys follow the Tweed and its tributaries, forming an all controlling basin for the production of wool; Routes through the fortified boarder lands are marked by outposts, castles, citadels (map inspired by ‘The Theatre of the Empire of Great Britain 1611’) ; The machines lie wait-

ing in Flanders, components of the Hawick wool system.

The Waverley Novels, published by Sir Walter Scott between 1814 and 1832 hint at the bravado, captures the myth which forms a backbone that colours the character of the Borders. Partly a record of ‘word of mouth’ stories and partly invented and embellished to the point where history and invention are one and the same; the theme of reinvention, the question of the narrative and the need to celebrate a lineage, the permanent significance of place, together with the novels artificial creations can too be directly applied to the found / invention of the town itself.

Country life Magazine 1907 The romance of Scotlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wild country, captured in this 1907 photograph,AMONG THE HILLS, is a reassuring peace of escapism, capturing a public aspiration to discover a wilderness beyond the doorstep. Railways were the familiar introduction to picturesque landscapes, with an established passenger service across the Cheviots, through the Borders and into the Highland North. The steel railed Waverley Railway Line once charged north from Carlisle, to Edinburgh via Hawick. The locomotives carried people and coal, offering Hawick the opportunity to convert its established water powered woollen mills to steam. My introduction to Hawick was, as for many, the railway time tables which guide you along a narrow path from Carlisle north into high country, in lists which read like poems. The following Railway time tables structure their order upon Table 135 Edinburgh to Carlisle via Hawick. THE NORTHERLY ROUTE HAWICK WOOL TRADE SYSTEMS, AUTOCRATIC POLARITY: BLESSED UNION ABBEY WAYS The maps explore the historic trade connections the Borders developed through their locality and the wider nation. The subsequent closing of the railway is a symbol of industrial decline and is in part responsible for the isolation Hawick now finds itself trapped by.

Hawick Cheviot Sheep are penned in by the Mills, looms and tanneries, channels, the mill chase which populate the Tiviot Valley.

“The Waverley Route and The Peebles Loop” (Catford 2015) The convergence of paths has forced communication between Reivers and Drovers, capitals and outposts, unifiers and those seeking seclusion. The oddity is that here, the obvious gathering points have become quieter and the traffic of trade and feet has fallen to other lines. (Nairn 1972) In our age of a smaller world, an age of interaction, the guest houses and inns have diminished fast. Does the yearning for the world knocking on the door persist?

Waverley Railway Line Border towns such as Hawick owe their former prosperity to the north south Waverly Railway Line; which cut north from Carlisle Citadel towards defensive points in the valley, Newcastleton and Hermitage; Longtown and Galashiels the bookends of the hardest ground the steel rails followed. The northerly route from Carlisle to Edinburgh is a peculiar

oddity in the British landscape. The path was destined to be the great link between the Scottish capital and the industry of the West Midlands, as well as an ideal candidate for a London to Edinburgh connection. The near direct north south relationship between Carlisle and Edinburgh gives a natural upper hand to this direct path, a traveller from England eternally aiming

due north is bound for the track. The evidence of the route is laid out by the cartographer’s hand, each bank, defence, river or narrowing valley, marked by features to facilitate the route. The custodians of the path, which you could imagine saw a ceaseless flow of travellers making their way to the distant North, now see an empty landscape with no clambering feet.

The Waverley Route exists in detached fragments, as its scare tackles Liddesdale. Whitrope Tunnel Sidings B6399 N. of Hermitage Castle, Liddesdale Photograph by the author

Even the A7 has been de-trunked! The cross Boarders route-ways had influence far beyond geography. What was destined to be the major North South Scotland England route following the Liddel before climbing over to Tivedale and Twedale (the route now defined by the remains of the Waverly Railway Line and the B6399 to Hawick) has influenced the ambitions of its community. The affect of the removed communication links, disconnecting, forgetting the path, has given a new potential, a prickly untamed edge to the land. As the population has withdrawn, a carcase of monuments gives tantalising clues of industry at the polar optimism of past civilisations.

Carlisle to Edinburgh via Hawick

Miles from Carlisle Down.

London

Connections

309 ¼ “ Euston 311 ¼ “ St.Pancras Manchester (Victoria) “ (Exchange) Preston Sheffield ....(Sta. Road) Leeds ...........(Wellington) Bradford ...(Market St.) Citadel Station,

Railway Timetables THE NORTHERLY ROUTE The basis of my research into the paths, industrial history and historic communication links connection the land north of the Cheviots to the Kingdom. A list of fortified points in the landscape, the timetable hints at a tumultuous past.

.-- Selk ir k (Branch Line connection) .-Cross Boarders Drove Road .-Peeble s (Branch Line connection) .-Borthwick Castle (North Middleton) .-Roslin .-Penicuik to Musselburgh Cycle-Walkway .-Newbottle abbey (Dalkeith) 90 ¼ Esk ban k an d D alk eith .-Dalhousie Castle (Lothianbridge) 98 ¼ Ed in bu r g h Perth Aberdeen Glasgow Queen Street

d.22j15 d.21j15

04 39 .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... 05 13 .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... 05 45 05 50 .... .... .... .... 06 04 06 08 06 14 06 20 06 25 .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... 07 08 09 16 11 05 06x37

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

.... .... .... 11 09 11 11 11 17 11 23 11 27 .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... 12 13

.... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... ....

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

09 20 .... .... .... .... 09 37 09 57 .... .... .... .... 09 57 .... 10 03 .... .... 10 12 .... 10 20 .... .... .... 10 32 10 39 10 46

.... .... .... 11 09 11 11 11 17 11 23 11 27 .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... 12 13

12 39 .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... 13 13 .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... 14 45 14 85 .... .... .... .... 15 04 15 08 15 14 15 20 15 25 .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... 16 08

13 20 .... .... .... .... 13 37 13 57 .... .... .... .... 14 57 .... 14 03 .... .... 14 12 .... 14 20 .... .... .... 15 32 15 39 15 46 .... .... .... 16 09 16 11 16 17 16 23 16 27 .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... 17 13

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

16 20 .... .... .... .... 16 37 16 57 .... .... .... .... 17 57 .... 17 03 .... .... 17 12 .... 17 20 .... .... .... 18 32 18 39 18 46 .... .... .... 19 09 19 11 19 17 19 23 19 27 .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... 19 13

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. .

ea v y figures d o n a t e t hro ugh c a rria ges

Light figures donate connecting services

Fo r G en e ra l N o t es see pa ge 10 Fo r o t h er t ra in s b et w e en Ed in b urg h a n d C a rlisl e se e T a b le 133

Carlisle to Edinburgh preamble Carlisle sits 0.25 degrees East of Edinburgh and four score miles (80 miles) south. Carlisle is a frontier town, sited on the point where the Romans â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Great North Roadâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; (Defoe 1727 10th Letter and 11th letter) ends, where English land becomes contested and where the Solway Firth cuts into the low lying marsh forming a bottleneck in the kingdom. North from the line lies a separate nation, distant hills, the Picts, the savages, the castles of fighting men (Fiennes 1888). The terrain compresses the route ways north along valleys. Often watching and controlling footfall the land stands guarding the Scots border. The path Britain has come accustomed to, when travelling from England to Scotland on foot, horseback, railway or motorcar, is the favoured east west boundary of Hadrianâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wall, then hugging the coast from Newcastle around to Berwick. The prospect however of a north south through route has ever been a tantalising prospect, often instigated directly north of Carlisle, often found left in ruin; the logic on paper never surpassing the reality of hard ground; a north bound line with no logic ever found in the reality of high hills and a fractious devison of people. The result is a garrisoned land of castles, stations and pathways, discarded as time carries on.

Carlisle to Edinburgh via Hawick

Miles from Carlisle Down.

London

Connections

309 ¼ “ Euston 311 ¼ “ St.Pancras Manchester (Victoria) “ (Exchange) Preston Sheffield ....(Sta. Road) Leeds ...........(Wellington) Bradford ...(Market St.) Citadel Station,

--Carlisle ...............................................d d e p. -Rockcliffe Cross (Esk River Crossing).. 6 ½ Ly n esid e -Sailby Castle (Sandysike Bridge) -Arthuret (St Michael’s Well) 9 ¾ Lo n g to w n .-- Netherby Roman Fort 12 Sc o ts D y k e .-Liddel Strength Castle .-Hollows .-- Windy Edge Standing Stones 21 ¼ K er sh o pe Fo o t .-Mangerton Tower 24 ¼ N ew c astle to n .-Hermitage .-Hermitage Viaduct 28 ¾ Steele R o ad .-Priest Hill 32 ¼ R ic c ar to n Ju n c tio n .-Maiden Paps .The Tinlee Stone .-- Catrail 38 ¼ Sh an k en d 41 ¼ Sto b s 45 ¼ H aw ic k .-- Fedgward Abbey .-- Ale Water .-- St Cuthbert’s way 57 ¾ St Bo sw ells 61 M elr o se 61 ¾ G alash iels .-- Selk ir k (Branch Line connection) .-Cross Boarders Drove Road .-Peeble s (Branch Line connection) .-Borthwick Castle (North Middleton) .-Roslin .-Penicuik to Musselburgh Cycle-Walkway .-Newbottle abbey (Dalkeith) 90 ¼ Esk ban k an d D alk eith .-Dalhousie Castle (Lothianbridge) 98 ¼ Ed in bu r g h Perth Aberdeen Glasgow Queen Street

d.22j15 d.21j15

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

.... .... .... 11 09 11 11 11 17 11 23 11 27 .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... 12 13

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

09 20 .... .... .... .... 09 37 09 57 .... .... .... .... 09 57 .... 10 03 .... .... 10 12 .... 10 20 .... .... .... 10 32 10 39 10 46

.... .... .... 11 09 11 11 11 17 11 23 11 27 .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... 12 13

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. .

ea v y figures d o n a t e t hro ugh c a rria ges

Light figures donate connecting services

Fo r G en e ra l N o t es see pa ge 10 Fo r o t h er t ra in s b et w e en Ed in b urg h a n d C a rlisl e se e T a b le 133

The first of a series. Map describing as the railway timetable, THE NORTHERLY ROUTE, the path from Carlisle N. Beginning at Carlisle Citadel the path then heads through garrisoned land, before reaching the Tweed Valley. North still further are the Falkirk Trysts and the Scottish Capital.

Left to right The Northerly Route map; Photograph including a map under construction of the fortified point along the route north from Carlisle, the railway timetable acting as a guide. ‘The Illustrated Journeys of Celia Fiennes c.1682-c.1712 edited by Christopher Morris’ acting as a descriptive guide, an OS map shedding light on reality. Cheviot Hill Sheep;‘The Illustrated Journeys of Celia Fiennes c.1682-c.1712 edited by Christopher Morris’.

What defines this north south relationship as a failure can be surmised by the plethora of marks which run in opposition to it (east west) and the terrain which forms a wall of moor that sprawls north easterly from here. Carlisle sits on the west coast just as the land heads west out into the Irish Sea. The path here makes for the east where the North Sea is at its closest, then on to Edinburgh along the east coast. In the border lands themselves Melrose Abbey marks St Cuthbert’s Way, the easterly route to Holy Island, Dumfries draws the traveller west where as the trains travel the east coast. Hadrian’s wall runs east west, Scots Dyke heads east west, the Scottish boarder heads north east and indeed so do the Cheviot’s. The route of the maps logic, finds no reality. In clandestine opposition The Drove Roads use a north south path and avoid Edinburgh for the Felkirk Tryst. “The Drove Roads of Scotland (Haldane 2015)

Celia Fiennes 1662 –1741 said of Gretna ... “This is threescore miles from Edenborough and the neerest town to this place is 18 miles, and there would not have been much better entertainement or accomodation, and their miles are soe long in these Countrys made me afraid to venture, Least after a tedious journey I should not be able to get a bed I Could Lye in. It seemes there are very few towns Except Edenborough, Abberdeen and Kerk wch Can give better treatement to strangers, therefore for the most part persons yt travell there go from one Noblemans house to another. Those houses are all Kind of Castles and they Live great tho’ in so nasty a way as all things are in even those houses one has Little Stomach to Eate or use anything, as I have been told by some that has travell’d there, and I am sure I mett with a sample of it enough to discourage my progress farther in Scotland. I attribute it wholly to their sloth for I see they sitt and do Little. I think there were one or two at Last did take spinning in hand at a Lazy way.” (Fiennes 1888)

The second of a series. As the railway timetable to the left describes. The HAWICK WOOL TRADE. Marginal farm land south of Hawick restricts livestock to hill sheep. The Tiviot and Tweed Valley become nurseries in the winter. Abbeys trade fleece and towns form around mills, fast breading for good wool and meat.

The third of a series. As the railway timetable to the left describes. AUTOCRATIC POLARITY: Blessed Union. The wealth gathered through the wool trade, protected within valleys that are cut off from the Kingdoms capitals, course concern as citadels protect their international concerns outside of the national structure.

The fourth and final in the series. As the railway timetable to the left describes. ABBEY WAYS. The wealth gathered through the wool trade, forms a valley of abbeys, in a void between England and Scotland. These institutions monopolise every aspect of agriculture, education and trade. The power is greater than the crown.

Left to right from Hawick Hawick Railway Station, the Waverley Railway; OS describes North South relationship between Edinburgh and Carlisle;The Illustrated Journeys of Celia Fiennes c.1682-c.1712 edited by Christopher Morris’ acting as a descriptive guide; William Camden 1551-1623 author of ‘Vision of Britain’; Daniel Defoe 1660-1731;Celia Fiennes 1662-1741; Melrose Abbey

Following three accounts north from Carlisle Intrigued by the Northerly Route into the Borders from Carlisle (its failure despite the polar attraction of the path) I followed three accounts between Carlisle and Edinburgh marking their winding narratives along routes and through villages on a modern OS map. Often in opposition to the modern cartographers hand, the course of Celia Fiennes c.1682-c.1712,William Camden 1551-1623 and Daniel Defoe offered brilliant insight into a world nether of todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Borders and often filled with narratives, biase to the extent that these words are unlikely to describe fully their setting. Place names, roads and landmarks also have changed in the intervening 400 yrs offering tales of places and families through a culture which no longer exists.

Left to right Extracts from Celia Fiennesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Diary Celia Fiennes, accounts of 1698: Through England on a Side Saddle in the Time of William and Mary (London: Field and Tuer, The Leadenhall Press, 1888) written in 1702, accompanied by a OS map cutting formed as I read the account. Subsequent mapping of the journey.

Left to right Extracts from Daniel Defoe: Tour Through the Whole Island of Great Britain, published between (1724 and 1727) accompanied by a OS map cutting formed as I read the account. Subsequent mapping of the journey.

Left to right Extracts from William Camden: Britain, or, a Chorographicall Description of the most flourishing Kingdomes, England, Scotland, and Ireland (London: George Bishop and John Norton, 1610) Text 2004 by Dana F. Sutton.University of California, British LibraryShort Title Catalogue 4509, accompanied by a OS map cutting formed as I read the account. Subsequent mapping of the journey.

An amalgamation of the OS map cutting formed as I read the accounts of Daniel Defoe: Tour Through the Whole Island of Great Britain, Celia Fiennes, accounts of 1698: Through England on a Side Saddle in the Time of William and Mary, and A Chorographicall Description of the most flourishing Kingdomes, England, Scotland, and Ireland

Left to right The Northerly Route is the extension of a global textile trade network. Leon Battista Alberti, in De Re Aedificatoria describes textiles, as one and the same as built fabric. The accumilation of tecneque and product is as with architecture,an amalgamation of human knowledge, artisan craft and endevour. Within the relationships of a trading empire is a physical manifestation of written knowledge. Textiles enables a exchange of European knowledge and trade. Map of Hawick on the Waverley Line Photograph of the Waverley line c.1920

Tweed Basin Timeline Hawick: At the mercy of a global economy International trade networks - C.10 good pasture managed by Cistercian Abbeys - C.10-C.13 Sophisticated water management and milling network establishes tax liabilities for tenants and regional economic control. (Berwick-Upon-Tweed) - 1372 Cheviot Sheep first recorded, originating from SE of Hawick - 1300’s Eastern trade well established to Danzig - 1337 Wool exports fund the Flanders weaving industry - 1480-1560 Venetian traders import Merino Sheep - 1482 English invade Berwick-Upon-Tweed - North Berwick became a royal burgh in the reign of James I - 1560’s-1760’s Cheviot Hill Sheep Caithness Cheviot crossed with Merino for meat and wool production - Imports from Seville also include dates, oranges and Camel Hair. - 1707 Act of England and Scotland enables access to the Atlantic triangle Slave Trade - 1700’s Improved connections with Port Glasgow - 1700’s The Tobacco industry becomes well established making use of Abbey water management and mill network. - 1771 Beilie John Hardie introduces the Stocking Frame to Hawick - 1750’s 1/3 of Jamaican plantations owned by Scot’s - 1783 Tobacco Trade significantly reduced after American independence - 1788 Caverlee Mill, Hawick built with water powered machines - Church of Scotland /Quakers are significant campaigners in slavery abolition. - 1799-1802 Imported Cashmere from Egypt was a sensation in Paris. - 1807 Slavery Abolition - 1814 Waverly by Walter Scott published (Historic pros and romanticised tails) Picturesque - 1819 Port Carlisle Built to link Carlisle to Atlantic Trade - 1820’s Loam weaving shop’s (factories) built for artisan workers - Tweed (Twill) woollen outfits popularised by popular culture - Tobacco Mills repurposed to woollen mills - 1831 Captain Charles Stuart Cochrane established the Scottish cashmere industry by acquiring the Paris weaving technique - 1832 Cheviot Hill exported by Van Diemans Land Co. to 250,000 acres NW. Tasmania - Imports of Parisian sauced wool for Cashmere production, after the French exploration of Persia - 1849 Waverley Railway Line connects Boarder towns to Lothian coal fields and Edinburgh - 1850’s-1890’s Established coal/steam driven power looming (1858 Caverlee Mill) - 1860 Exports of woollen products to Paris and Milan - 1862 Waverley Railway Line is completed, opening N.S roué Edinburgh to Carlisle (Port). - 1906 Cashmere imports from Beijing and Tianjin - 1950’sChiviot Hill sheep bred in N.Zeeland become the staple for Australia - Industry in terminal decline due to international competition - 1967 Last steam locomotive on the Waverley Line. - 1969 Beaching Cuts. Waverley line closed/Port Carlisle branch line closed 1932. - 1978 Beijing Cashmere market becomes more transparent allowing for product to be bought at sauce. - 1980’s Lamb’s wool imported from Australia - 1997 Public sector/ EU subsidy prop up Cashmere industry to prevent significant regional decline. - Made in Scotland campaign aimed at Korea and Japan - 1999 Industry focuses on high value product - 2000 Pringles purchased by Hong Kong-based S.C. Fang & Sons Company, Ltd. - 2001 100% vs 95% cashmere content American FTC legal action forces industry to change product. - 2004 World Trade Agenda Multi-Fibre Agreement ends - 2008 Industrial decline forces further niche product development

The historic trade networks which have led to the development of the Scottish Borders as we find them today are explored in the following map series. The Foundation Stone of the Network C.7-12 Power and Prosperity 1337-1482 Act of England and Scotland: Towards Tobacco 1707-1807 Hawick, an Industrial Centre 1831-1906 The Decline1939-2008 Funding the crown: Wealth, control and corruption 1322-1536 Gold 1539-1600 Building a Union 1609-1700 A Fading Influence: Ruins of Port Carlisle (Solway known as Hudson Bay):The defence of the Marches Reivers and the border lands 1800-1906

Map explores Hawickâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s position within the Venetian trading empire

The foundation stone of the network C.7-12

The foundation stone of the network C.7-12 The Cistercian abbey founded in the twelfth century at Melrose (Baxter 1997), Augustinian Jedburgh Abbey, Premonstratensian Dryburgh Abbey, Newbattle abbey, Kelso Abbey, Lanercost Priory and Lindisfarne Priory formed an all controlling power base which governed every action of a medieval tenants daily life, in the Scottish boarders between Carlisle and Peebles (Defoe 1727 10th Letter and 11th letter). The Abbeys themselves were located along the Tweed. It’s wide, fast flowing water acting as defence and providing food. Upstream, along its tributaries Hawick, Selkirk and Peebles lie in hollows where weirs can tame the water pouring off the hills, down mill lees and into reservoirs. Downstream, the burgh gates of Roxburgh and Berwick-Upon-Tweed (and further afield at Edinburgh and Stirling) the valley’s taxed corn into coin, funding the abbeys (T.Robinson 2006). The burgh’s remain custodians of the North Sea and its lucrative trade. The Tweed valley is a nursery, sheltered by the Cheviots, where lamb and calf can prosper. (Broun Woodbridge, 2007) However, south of the Tweeds watershed, lies Carlisle, where the land faces west not east. Accessed along Liddesdale, this is a narrow path which offers a door to England and threatens invasion and reward, and Berwick-Upon-Tweed similarly, a guard house forms the valleys bottleneck and remains vulnerable to siege, cutting the network off from the world. (Port 2014)

Clockwise Left to right North Berwick; Berwick upon Tweed; Mechanical weaving looms govern the building of towns;Boats; Steam powered factory; Wool exports; Hawick built of wool and machine; The shadow of the Tweeds abbeys

Clockwise Left to right Stirling and Edinburgh the capital seats; Church and cattle in the armaments at Berwick-upon-Tweed; Paris; N.Italy, Vennice; S.Spain; Plymouth; Durham; Newcastle-Upon-Tyne; Hadrianâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wall; Carlisle

Map explores Hawickâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s position within the Venetian trading empire

Power and Prosperity 1337-1482

Power and Prosperity 1337-1482 Melrose is a capital of knowledge, requiring the finest artefacts the Christian world has to offer (HES 2011). Supported by milling, exporting leather and wool, and is connection to both Flanders (the Hanseatic League) and the English East Coast, (Zimmern 2017) the tweed became pivotal controlling the edge of Europe. The North Sea had previously bought the Vikings, some three hundred years earlier and the Roman road to York which crossed the Tweed on route to Edinburgh (and was still in common use) (Map 1350). Flanders prospered from wool and had already exported its knowledge to Norfolk. (Robinson 2017)But the network was now causing an economic recession due to the 100 Years War significantly reducing trade (Snow 2007). From 1480-1560 Venetian traders bought Merino sheep from Seville, famed for their fleece. The Cheviot sheep, first recorded in 1372 when bred with the Merino making for a strong well fleeced animal, made for economic success due to its hardy nature and good meat (Col 2019). However although the 100 Years War ended in 1453, Berwick was taken by the English in 1482 (HoP 2008), which meant the Tweed basin no longer had access to its market. Significantly the burgh town of Roxbrugh failed (T.Robinson 2006), declining from here on as trade faced north. There is no trace of it now.

Act of England and Scotland: Towards Tobacco 1707-1807

Act of England and Scotland: Towards Tobacco 1707-1807 The Tweed Valley was now a well established wool centre and prosperous. However the security of the land, its vulnerable position, had led to a population of wild horseman, raiders and families famed as bullish blackmailers. The act of 1707 gave Scotland access to the Americas, and in 1771 Beilie John Hardie introduced the Stocking Frame to Hawick (Moffat 2014). The wool industry, previously confined to cottages and individuals specialities, now began to become an industrial process. Land owners were able to export wool, raw fleece and stockings as well as leather hide, then import and refine tobacco from their Jamaican plantations in newly built mills and old corn mills, which were easy to develop in the well managed and established water network founded by the abbeys. By 1788 the wool industry was mechanising with water powered machines setting the scene for the industrial revolution to follow. 1799 saw cashmere become a sensation in the weaving mills of Flanders, and would paith the way for Hawickâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s future after the Tobacco decline (due to the 1807 slavery abolition, which was as a result of the Scottish churchâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s campaign).

Hawick, an industrial centre 1831-1906

Hawick, an industrial centre 1831-1906 In 1831 Captain Charles Stuart Cochrane established the Scottish cashmere industry by acquiring the Paris weaving technique enabling a refined, high value industry to establish alongside coarse twill woollen outfits for workers and out of doors wear. Imports of Parisian sauced wool for Cashmere production could now be obtained after the French exploration of Persia. 1832 saw the well established Cheviot Hill sheep bread exported by Van Diemans Land Co. to 250,000 acres of land in NW. Tasmania. 1849 finally connected the mills to the Lothian coal fields and Edinburgh. The Waverley Railway Line connected Hawick to London in 1862. 1850’s-1890’s Established coal/steam driven power loaming (1858 Caverlee Mill). In 1860 exports of woollen products to Paris and Milan find Boarder weaving on a global stage. By1906 Cashmere imports direct from Beijing and Tianjin allow the industry to compete with the established, producing the Paisley design as well as other products. Hawick now had communication with the seats of British and European industrial power. It’s weaving knowledge and sheep were spreading across the British Empire. (Kelley 2009)

Hawick as linchpin of wool trade in the Northern Hemisphere

Boardgame Time line acts as Weft for the frame; Warp formed by layering narratives (North South as Waverley Railway) exploring the simultaneous narratives of the network

Clockwise Left to right Algiers; Port Carlisle; Borders Woolen Mills; Field System for Cheviot Hill sheep; Hawick with London and North Eastern headed for Edinburgh

Steam powered woolen mills

Hawick global connections, Atlantic to the East China Sea

Depiction of the Silk Road. A network pivotal to the inter-war success of Hawick as it became focused on the production of high value product made from cashmere. Hawick lies to the northern extremities of the map, above Hadrian’s Wall. Himalayas formed of brown paper

The ‘greasy’ cashmere fleece, the fine undercoat in its un-refined state, was exported from cites prospering on the foot hills of the Himalaya’s, from Herat to Beijing. The trade would grow to form a complex network of luxury thread, Sheep’s wool, Shahtoosh Qiviut, Angora rabbit, yak, Chinese/Mongol cashmere goat fleece , Iran/Afghan cashmere, Crossbred refined fleece, (Mohair), Cashgora, Llama/Alpaca, Guanaco, Camel hair and Vicuna. (Analysis 2011) Demand for fine shawls in Britain and France with ‘teardrop with a bent’ design, ‘buta’, a Babylonian tradition, became popular in the C19, quickly being imitated with wool in Norfolk and the Scottish boarders. Died cotton could also be used to create a similar effect. The ‘buta’ design, or “Paisley design’, (Robinson 2017) as it became known, could be produced in the Hawick wool mills, Paisley, Carlisle and Edinburgh with knowledge gained from the French empire and exported through Flanders and North Sea trade. Cashmere fibre, that with a diameter between 12 and 19 micron, was a struggle to obtain in Scotland, high quality product controlled by Chinese export. Spring combed cashmere often difficult to identify compared to (slaughter) skin harvested cashmere (Hawick Cashmere2002). Global conflict has also played its role, cutting the chain through Iran and Afghanistan. The weaving industry as a result still relies upon the Beijing monopoly over supply. (Baxter 1997)

The decline1939-2008

The decline1939-2008 By 1967 the world had moved on from Hawick. The 1980â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s saw Lambâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wool imported from Australia , which had their ancestry in the Cheviot Hills and by 1997 Public sector/ EU subsidy propped up an industry which was in significant regional decline. Production in China and America was producing a cheaper product and by 1999 the industry was forced to review its position. (Purcell 1996) In 2000 Pringles was purchased by Hong Kong-based S.C. Fang & Sons Company, Ltd. and new machinery was imported from Japan to reduce staff expenses. The railway had long gone and the road network failed to receive further funding, the new motorway bypassing the valley, resulting in Hawick becoming a rural town, with significantly reduced access to Edinburgh and no direct connection to London. (Analysis 2011)

Funding the Crown

Funding the Crown Wealth, control and corruption 13221536 Melrose was burnt by Edward II 1322 and in 1385 Richard II desecrated the newly rebuilt abbey. (Moffat 2014) However Melrose then began rebuilding for the final time in the English decorated style, (Robinson 2017) with the aid of John Morow of France (Master Mason), creating a dense layering of decoration; the style still evident at Wells and Exeter. (Thurley 2012) In 1440-41 new choir stalls ordered from Bruges expressed the Abbeys links to a European community where commissions were entrusted to the finest craftsmen. The War of the Roses followed 1455-85. James IV of Scotland defined his rain by the unification of England and Scotland . In 1502 James IV negotiates perpetual piece with England visiting Melrose in the process. But by 1536 the dissolution of the monasteries was underway. (L.O 1996)

Gold 1539-1600

Gold 1539-1600 Remarkably the wealth of the boarders and its economic prosperity was not lost by the abbeys restructuring (Crane 2015). In 1539 James V’s bonnet piece, gold coinage formed of Scottish gold of Crawford mines (to the valley west of Selkirk) funded the country. The strategic importance of the valleys between Carlisle and Edinburgh would be the concern of the crown for the next 60 years in order to secure the gold. The building in 1560 at Melrose would symbolise the Protestant reformation and Elizabeth I’s concern that the Tweed was under her control. In 1570 Thomas Facillis , gold Smith and physician was installed at Stirling Castle (Castle 20132019). In 1590 Sir Bevis Bulmer was under the instruction of the queen to mine gold at Crawford Mur and in 1593 Sir Bevis Bulmer funds a gold and lead refinery at Leith (he was also associated with Comb Martin refinery). In 1596 Sir Bevis Bulmer (L.O 1996) presents Elizabeth I with a gold tankert of Scottish gold from Crawford Mur. However with the gold quickly depleting from the Scottish hills Sir Walter Raleigh’s discovery of a new gold source in the Orinoco River in 1595 was welcomed and quickly heralded. (Crane 2015)

Longtown (Arthuret) â&#x20AC;&#x201C; St Michael and All Angels Church Berwick Holy Trinity Church. Berwick upon Tweed, Northumberland

Building a union 1609-1700

In a world of global sea trade and the discovery of distant lands, it was important that the border lands of England and Scotland remained secure and competing ports did not become citadels detached from state control. Berwick Castle was dissolved by James I and in 1609 St Michael and All Angels was rebuilt, funded by the king, to symbolise unity after the Scots burning of the previous church. 1654 saw the opening of The Holy Trinity Berwick Upon Tweed, funded by Charles I in the English Civil War to signify a new Britain. By 1707 the act of England and Scotland enables access to the Atlantic triangle Slave Trade and the opportunity of empire (Defoe 1727 10th Letter and 11th letter).

Deposition in the lee of time: Hills about Peebles â&#x20AC;&#x153;From this town of Dunbar to Edinburgh, the country may be reckonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d not only as fruitful and rich in soil, but also as pleasant and agreeable a country as any in Scotland, and, indeed, as most in England; the sea on the right hand, at a moderate distance, and the hills on the left, at a farther distance; and even those hills not extremely high, not barren, not desolate mountains, as I have given an account of some farther south, and have more to speak of farther north. But these hills are passable and habitable, and have large flocks of sheep, in many places, feeding on them, and many open roads lie over them, as from Edinburgh, and other parts towards England; as particular to Yester, and to Duns and Coldstream on the Tweed; another way to Kelsoe, where also there is a ford and a ferry over the Tweed, and likewise by another way to Tiviotdale, to Peebles and Jedburgh, of which hereafterâ&#x20AC;?. (Defoe 1727 10th Letter and 11th letter)

Ruins of Port Carlisle (Solway known as Hudson Bay): The defence of the Marches Reivers and the border lands 1800-1906 Walters Scotts â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Waverly, Tis Sixty Years Sinceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, published in 1812, a historic yarn of romance and intrigue, which painted an image of wild boarder lands and chivalric characters, focused national culture on a hither too distant land. Tweed (Twill) (Scotts 1812) woollen outfits were popularised and quickly became a symbol of the gentry, shooting and a wild rural landscape, now fast becoming a part of popular culture. Tobacco Mills turned to woollen mills to accommodate the industry. In 1819 Port Carlisle was built to link Carlisle to the Atlantic trade of cotton and industrial lands of Birmingham and Manchester (wiki2019) . In 1831 Captain Charles Stuart Cochrane established the Scottish cashmere industry by acquiring the Paris weaving technique. By 1858 Caverlee Mill was mechinised with water power (Moffat 2014) .1860 Exports of woollen products to Paris and Milan were well established and in 1862 the Waverley Railway Line is completed, opening a N.S route from Edinburgh to Carlisle (Port) to London. By 1906 Cashmere was imported from Beijing and Tianjin. (Analysis 2011)

Stobbs Camp The remains of Stobs camp lies just south of Hawick. The largest prisoner of war camp in Britain in WW1 and in use, although the extent of it’s use is still unknown, in WW2, the site is now dismantled and abandoned. The grid of streets and sheds is still visible on the moor side. This highlights the strategic importance of the Waverley Railway Line and the untouchable remoteness which still holds the character of the Borders.

Carlisle to Edinburgh via Hawick

Miles from Carlisle Down. Connections London 309 ¼ “ Euston 311 ¼ “ St.Pancras Manchester (Victoria) “ (Exchange) Preston Sheffield ....(Sta. Road) Leeds ...........(Wellington) Bradford ...(Market St.)

Citadel Station, --Carlisle ...............................................dep.

-Rockcliffe Cross (Esk River Crossing).. 6 ½ Lyneside -Sailby Castle (Sandysike Bridge) -Arthuret (St Michael’s Well) 9 ¾ Longtown .-- Netherby Roman Fort 12 Scots Dyke .-Liddel Strength Castle .-Hollows .-- Windy Edge Standing Stones 21 ¼ Kershope Foot .-Mangerton Tower 24 ¼ Newcastleton .-Hermitage .-Hermitage Viaduct 28 ¾ Steele Road .-Priest Hill 32 ¼ Riccarton Junction .-Maiden Paps .The Tinlee Stone .-- Catrail 38 ¼ Shankend 41 ¼ Stobs 45 ¼ Hawick .-- Fedgward Abbey .-- Ale Water .-- St Cuthbert’s way 57 ¾ St Boswells 61 Melrose 61 ¾ Galashiels .-.-.-.-.--

Selkirk (Branch Line connection) Cross Boarders Drove Road Peebles (Branch Line connection) Borthwick Castle (North Middleton) Roslin

.--

Cycle-Walkway

Penicuik to Musselburgh

.-Newbottle abbey (Dalkeith) 90 ¼ Eskbank and Dalkeith .-Dalhousie Castle (Lothianbridge) 98 ¼ Edinburgh Perth Aberdeen Glasgow Queen Street

d.22j15 d.21j15

.... . .... .... 09 20 09 20 . .... .... .... .. .. .... .... .... . .. .. .... . .... .... .. .. .... .... .... .. .. .... . .. .. 09 37 09 37 . .... .... . .... .... 09....57 09....57 . .... .... .... . .... .... .... . .... .... .... .... .... .. .. .... . .. .. 09 57 09 57 . .... .... . .... .... 10....03 10....03 . .... .... .... .. .. .... . .. .. .... . .... .... 10 12 10 12 .. .. .... .... .... . .. .. .... . 10 20 10 20 .. .. .... .... .... . .... .... .... . .... .... .... .... .... . . .... . . 10 32 10 32 .... 10 39 10 39 .... . . 10 46 10 46 .... .... . . .... .... .... .... .... .... . . .... .... .... 11 09 11 09 .... 11 11 11 11 . . .... 11 17 11 17 .... The decline1939-2008 11 23 11 23 .... . . 11 27 11 27 .... However. by 1932 Port Carlisle’s rail- . .... .... .... .... .... .... way branch from Carlisle; .... .... .... . line is closed . .... .... .... and from.1941 to 1946 RAF .... .... Longtown, .... . .... .... .... (CarlisleAirMuseum) defence .... a coastal .... .... .... .... .... .... .... and Trans-Atlantic American .... 12 13 12 13 .... strategic outlier, saw the Solway Firth a bombing practice range ( 09become 16 . . . . . . . . 11 05 as Hudson Bay) From here on 06known 37 the Scots boarders would once again be viewed as a distant, remote part of Britain, quiet and out of range of London’s control. 1997 saw public sector/ EU subsidy’s prop up the cashmere industry to prevent significant regional decline. But by 2004 the World Trade Agenda Mulit-Fibre Agreement was controlling proceedings. By 2008 Industrial decline forces further niche product development. The feeling of international abandonment culminated in 2014 when the Scottish referendum highlights a land forgotten. Berwick-Upon Tweed and Longtown almost became international boarders once again. Northumberland subsequently votes in favour of leaving the EU in 2015. (Analysis 2011)

.. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .

13 20 .... .... .... .... 13 37 13 57 .... .... .... .... 14 57 .... 14 03 .... .... 14 12 .... 14 20 .... .... .... 15 32 15 39 15 46

.... .... .... 16 09 16 11 16 17 16 23 16 27 .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... 17 13

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. .

09 16 11 05 06x37

Hawick to Milan

Moving on from Hawick

The Remains Hawick is in the border lands, on the edge of past Empires, the land of Roman and British camps. Its hard to ignore that roads in remote lands often act as facilitators to imprisonment. Chinas ‘Belt and Road Economic Belt’, which heads out through the cashmere farm lands of Tibet and is the key to exhilarating woven cashmere production in Hawick, is inevitably lined with ‘re-education camps, imprisoning those without a voice.

Boardgame MK1

Hawickâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mills follow tributaries allong the Tiveot. Cheviot Hill sheep Map with characters Layered board game Boarders on the board

Bartholomew’s ½ inch to a mile map Bartholomew’s ½ inch topublished a mile map in the (1942) Originally 1920’s in order to guide the cyclist (1942) Originally published in the in order to around the British Iles, but1920’s latterly guide the cyclist aroundtowards the Britishmotorcars. Iles, but latterly reworked to gear Bright imagery describing the reworkedcolourful to gear towards motorcars. lie of the land at a broad scale to fit the Bright colourful imagery by describing the lie of the land distances travelled tourists and day trippers. detailed description ofbyeight at a broad A scale to fit the distances travelled tourists types of road including likely condition, and day trippers. size and use, to aid efficiency and indicate Marked innsofand A detailed speed. description of eight typed road hotels including for week and weekend trips. condition, size and of use,topography to aid efficiency and Alikely vivid description

indicate speed.

Marked inns and hotels for week and weekend trips A vivid description of topography

n Speed

The theatre of the empire of Great Britaine: presenting an exact geography of theKingdoms’ kingdomes of Void The villages and towns along the highway have land, Scotland, Ireland

acted as components autonomously gathering, filtering those border crossers. However the lished 1611/1612 (Map of Northumberland 1607) fluctuating relationship between the boarders and st th urban centres has in recent times mmissioned by James 1 (James 6 Scotland) in order to describe the the unitedkingdoms empire of Great barely existed in spirit. The route which has aine, to ‘extinguish the boarders’ between former nations and record the limits of his domain. come in and out of favour now stands as history. The travellers have found a different course. cription of a civilised urban society of well-built towns and stable boarders, captured within a James 1st commissioned the recording of this kigle volume, rationalising and asserting order. netic land, yet depicted a stability which the hills have never obliged (Speed Published 1611/1612 s however is a land of strife, a kingdom which ten years earlier had only just been recorded in (Map of Northumberland 1607)). The oldest e parts by Ponts Scottish Military Maps of the 1590’s. boarder has resisted the control of state, forming a void within the kingdoms centre. A point on the ackmail”, Oats left out at night to pay off the Reivers. map which was once so connected with the wider world, now resides as a remote outpost .

John Speed The theatre of the empire of Great Britaine: presenting an exact geography of the kingdomes of England, Scotland, Ireland Published 1611/1612 (Map of Northumberland 1607) Commissioned by James 1st (James 6th Scotland) in order to describe the united empire of Great Britaine, to ‘extinguish the boarders’ between former nations and record the limits of his domain. Description of a civilised urban society of well-built towns and stable boarders, captured within a single volume, rationalising and asserting order. This however is a land of strife, a kingdom which ten years earlier had only just been recorded in some parts by Ponts Scottish Military Maps of the 1590’s. “Blackmail”, Oats left out at night to pay off the Reivers.

Gherardo Starnina (1410) Thebaid Galleria degli Uffizi, Florence

Thebiad is a Tuscan genre which through paining, although mostly characterised by 15th century poetry, depicts the deserts around Thebes, the central Ancient Egyptian capital. The importance of the removed perspective, the hermit retreating to isolation in order to s tudy, find truth and remove themselves from the temptations of the devil, became a powerful symbol of sainthood and the dedication of the holy man. This depiction, attributed to Gherardo Starnina is the only complete series of this early date, and therefore depicts a synthetic rocky landscape of stone and boulders. The lack of perspective gives equal wait to each saintly figure, identifiable to the intended audience, which to modern eyes gives this a storyboard or comic book aesthetic. My intrigue with this image is when considering this as a ‘map of saints’ within the remote mountains, outside of urban society within an idealised community of disparate gardens, chapels and cottages. A dream like ideal imposed onto a landscape that I assume would have been considered remote, dangerous and beyond ‘mans’ taming hand.

William Smith 1815 Geological map First person to document the order of geological strata, documenting the capital and the sourse of its fuel (coal)

Hawick’s machines in Flanders; A view across the plain, The board maps the journey to Hawick; Trade/communication focus, board-game.

Carlisle to Edinburgh via Hawick (Northerly Route): A Description of the border lands The hills which give shape to the boarder (depicted beautifully by William Smith’s 1815 geological survey which documents the order of geological strata that governs the source of the nations water, coal, mines and building material) divides the route into distinctive centres, each opposed to one-another, each governed by the challenges of land, river and climatic characteristics (Crane 2015). The land directly north of Carlisle, the Reivers lands, is exposed, flat and easy to move across. The result is an exposed plain which gives little in the way of shelter. Carlisle therefore stands as observer over the frontier, with little opportunity to defend the land north. This sense of continual observation never leaves the route, yet the lack of physicality and imposed order left the moors north and south of Hadrian’s Wall dangerous. Busy Gap, a hollow closed off by the wall, notable for being penned on John Speed’s map, published around 1611, provided shelter for rievers stolen cattle and was known of in Newcastle-upon-Tyne (Crane 2015). The Cheviot Hills climb NE from here and form arguably the oldest boarder in Europe. The land to the SE and NW hide under their shadow, protected as travellers are forced along the east coast or north out of Carlisle’s gates. Further north, the Teviot and Tweed sit in productive land encircled by hills (Defoe 1727 10th Letter and 11th letter). The route out of Carlisle heads to Hawick, the town at the centre of the boarders wool weaving and manufacture, which owes its existence to the abbeys along the Tweed which had been the autocrats that governed a prosperous trade network from both N.Berwick and Berwick-upon-Tweed, east west to America and Scandinavia and south to Spain, even Libya (Zimmern 2017). Further north still lies Edinburgh, the Scottish capital and Stirling castle, which is held in equally good standing. These boarder hills hold the story of empire, the British gold trade, the wealth of James 1st, international wool manufacture, Cashmere as well as teaching, both secular and phenomenological (Harrison 2008). The land and sea connections from England to Scotland, the border between the two not fully resolved till the 1800’s (Crane 2015), has forever been a strategic and valuable political asset. This is the land which has long failed to be overcome. Sea communication long relied upon, struggled in the shallow Soilway at Carlisle, yet prospered to the east (Langlands 2016). However road connections now rely on a motorway which heads west to avoid the high ground, passing the gold mines at Cranmore (Catford 2015). These same obstacles force modern train routes similarly east and west, the Waverley Railway line long closed. The fortified, ancient route north, an enigmatic leftover formed by Mesolithic man, has become progressively quieter as communication continues to cluster at the periphery. The power the land once held has now also been extracted to the global peripheries leaving the future of the Borders progressively contracting away from the contemporary world. The open (transparent) boarder, which has formed the projects focus and had long been a block to trade from the Abbeys to Berwick-upon-Tweed, was even threatened with a new significants as the Scottish Referendum in 2015 aimed to polarise the population in a formal vendetta highlighting a disgruntled community, disillusioned with English rule; that same residual anger which forced the Romans to cut Dere Street like a gorge through the land from London, north and that same obstinants which ultimately allowed the world to focus its efforts elsewhere (T.H.Rowland 1974).

Hawick’s machines in Flanders; A view across the plain, The board maps the journey to Hawick; Trade/communication focus, board-game.

Having modelled the trade network Hawick became a pivotal part off, describing regional and international relationships, some grand empire driven exchange routes, some governed by political boarders, national boundaries and ‘concrete’ fortification, a narrative of paths, glimpsed collisions and grand voyages, briefly form a complete if fictional narrative set in a time different to our own, yet not entirely clear. In the form of a pop up board game; it was striking how easy the sequence was to manipulate and for all its ambitious detail and opportunity for discovery, like all toys it was finite. Soon packed away never to emerge again. It’s impact firstly achieved by its scale and secondly by the short sighted intimate scenes each player could discover through perspectival shift; the harsh nature of reality was circumvented as the mapping gave a romantic naivety to the world. ‘Re-education camps’ on the silk road are drawn like the repeated patterns of wallpaper, trains and army’s walk through the world of the board unhindered. Cities too, are represented as historic artifice and medieval abbeys remain at large alongside the machines of C.19 weaving, which quickly governed the form of vast factories of a scale that up until that moment had only been dreamt by the church. It’s a fictitious controlled world rapped up within itself. Each piece activated by the player, the game becomes a constant moving of components, adding, building and taking away once more. It suggests the system of trade is thought of in its totality, as if each moment is conscious of the part it pays and where it fits. But as all children discover as they grow up, the miniaturised games, models and landscapes of play, do not repeat the world at large. Their view of a finite world controlled and

perfect isn’t repeated by the grownups in the real world. There isn’t the complete vision. Instead we must make do with arguments of what we can build and what might be over the horizon. However just like on the board game pieces can get lost can become forgotten; they become a retreated observer rather than active participant. Industrial - Outward facing, ambitious, technically driven, world market participator Scottish - Inwark facing Celt clan tartan clad fiefdom of myth and fantasy Post-Industrial - declining, melancholically festooned Border Town - fierce, independent, a land of its own making Hawick has a character radically outside of urban norms. It’s a product of its remote setting, overtly decentralised (untamed) which gives it a subconscious need to make, in order to be self reliant. What on initial glance may appear disorderly, within the structure of the town, its machinery and manufacturing sequence can be found a calm self assurance, a town within a valley, which has governed and systemised its surrounding structure. I have previously described Hawick within the structure of the board game; a logical yet slightly chaotic linear machine. The structure of the machine remains constant, although the creative process, the objects and vertical form was spontaneous, driven by narratives plucked from history rather than a predetermined structure. The board game provided the assurance, the frame within which the players build.

Hawick is a notable town, an industrial centre between Carlisle and Edinburgh. It is representative of the alienating attitude which power proliferates, with consequences little heard. The opportunity to site my project within its territory, at the centre of the Scottish Lowlands, offers a viewpoint very particular of this century. The Tweed valley, a cloistered land, detached from the national conversation, formed initially of a tapestry of ecclesiastical institutions (which governed an assemblage of trade and education) now remains a colloquial anomaly. The Scottish Boarders as a result do not subsist within the locality; instead have always relied upon far reaching empires and a tangled global network. This industrial inclination to protect and nurture yet learn and absorb has never left the town.

Hooke Park, Woodland Campus1989 ABK and Frei Otto Although being undoubtedly of a family of shed architecture, industrial greenhouses and temporary marquees, the work of ABK and Frei Otto is aspiring to more, and therefore does suggest a mercantile character. The aspiration is for yes, a cheap lightweight easy to construct building, yet it is constructed with locally sauced materials, built with off cuts from nearby plantations. The components can be dissembled if required and the resulting impact of the structure would be conspicuously minimal. The result is architecture which has cultural reverence assimilated to the contemporary environmental conversation and therefore suggest a learned mentality which is worthy of ‘front of house’. Otto, Frei. Tensile Structures Volume One: Pneumatic Structures, M.I.T Press Cambridge, London

Hooke Park, Woodland Campus1989 ABK and Frei Otto

Although being undoubtedly of a family of shed architecture, industrial greenhouses and temporary marquees, the aspiring to more, and therefore does suggest a mercantile character. The aspiration is for yes, a cheap lightweight constructed with locally sauced materials, built with off cuts from nearby plantations. The components can be diss resulting impact of the structure would be conspicuously minimal. The result is architecture which has cultural rev contemporary environmental conversation and therefore suggest a learned mentality which is worthy of ‘front of h

Otto, Frei. Tensile Structures Volume One: Pneumatic Structures, M.I.T Press Cambridge, London

Ptolemy Dean Architects 2018 Stair and Lift Tower The addition is a continuation of gothic, yet forms an overtly new addition which unlocks a new view from within and as a component of the facade rather than being in opesition. The Tower also enables access to the museum and invites the public into the inner depths of the Abbey.

Ptolemy Dean Architects 2018 Stair and Lift Tower

The addition is a continuation of gothic, yet forms an overtly new addition which unlocks a new view from w The Tower also enables access to the museum and invites the public into the inner depths of the Abbey.

Oriental Baths, Leeds by Cuthbert Brodrick A distinctly English reinvention of ‘Turkish Baths’, Brodrick’s 1866 Eastern inspired strangely familiar creation is both an industrial symbol of cultural exchange and a public statement of confidence. Brodrick’s work has an elemental timeless quality which is of eternal might (suggested by the classical proportion)

The Grea designed formed o the Borde

https:/

at Tapestry of Scotland, to be shown in a new permanent purpose built location in the centre of Galasheils, Channel Street, a Page/Park Gallery, is a commission by the Scottish Borders Council. The aim is to build upon the cultural heritage of the regain, creating a asset, of 190 panels, to attract a new tourist market; in association with the reopened railway. The commission depicts the continuation of lives in ers, sharing common history and celebrating textile craft.

//alexhewitt.photoshelter.com/

The Great Tapestry of Scotland, to be shown in a new permanent purpose built location in the centre of Galasheils, Channel Street, a Page/Park designed Gallery, is a commission by the Scottish Borders Council. The aim is to build upon the cultural heritage of the regain, creating a asset, formed of 190 panels, to attract a new tourist market; in association with the reopened railway. The commission depicts the continuation of lives in the Borders, sharing common history and celebrating textile craft.

The Great Tapestry of Scotland by Alexander McCall Smith 2013, to be displayed in Galashiels

Alhambra, Granada Influence from across the Muslim world and built of wood and stucco as if a stage, a performance of wealth and a projected ambition. A reinvention of Spanish identity as part of an expansive empire, Alhambra appears a jewel yet a public statement of confidence is a charade. Timber and plaster replaces stone carved details to allow for homogonous construction, the mass production of cast elements compiled with minimal skilled labour with fewer tools.

Images from the BBC bbc.co.uk/ Spain Blood and Gold: The Making of Spain with S Sebag Montefiore

Historic Environment Scotland Building Descriptions “Albert Road. An elegantly proportioned traditional stone house situated in a prominent position at the heart of Hawick, adjacent to the Albert Bridge and overlooking both the River Teviot and Sandbed.Bridge House does not appear on John Wood's Plan of the Town and Environs of Hawick (1824). It is shown on the Ordnance Survey Town Plan of 1857 5 AND 6 TOWER KNOWE An imposing block of circa 1900 that is very prominently sited next to Drumlanrig Bridge and overlooking the Slitrig Water at the heart of Hawick and superseded Sandbed as the location of its marketplace from circa 1815. A well-proportioned, late-19th-century, classical tenement with shops which retains remnants of an earlier building, situated in a prominent position at the heart of Hawick overlooking Drumlanrig Bridge and the Slitrig Water. 7 HighStreet BoS David Cousin (1809-78), who practised in Edinburgh, was one of the most accomplished architects of his generation. He was appointed architect to the British Linen Company after the death of his predecessor, George Angus, in 1845. The design of provincial bank buildings was thereafter the mainstay of his practice. 11 HghStreet An elegantly proportioned Renaissance-style bank in a central position on the High Street at the heart of Hawick, designed by James Pearson Alison (1862-1932) Two well-proportioned, late-19th-century blocks, identical at their upper storeys and with good Art Deco shops at No 29, situated at the centre of Hawick's High Street and making a significant contribution to the streetscape. Archibald Scott, 1860, with mid-20th-century alterations at ground floor. 3-storey, 7-bay, Classical bank and manager's house forming part of terrace, with 3 right bays slightly recessed at upper levels, and prominent balustraded parapet. 47 HighStreet An eclectic, late-19th-century tenement and shops, situated at the heart of Hawick's High Street and making a strong contribution to the streetscape. The wide variety of planes to the façade, together with detailing in a range of styles, lend the building a distinctive, eccentric character. Its is prominently positioned at the entrance to Walter's Wynd, its octagonal right-hand bay at second and attic storeys engaging with its corner site”. http://historicscotland.maps.arcgis.com/

Slitrig Water; St Maryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and Old Parish Church, Hawick

Factory by the former railway at the top of Hawick; Last Cafe in England

Contemporary Hawick mills weave in 3D to avoid seems in cashmere jumpers. Although much reduced there still remains a strong cashmere industry in Hawick. Images from â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Borders Railway, Channel 5 TV, Walking Britainâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Lost Railways 24thApril

Right Nonsense written after a journey to Hawick

The fantastical and quite brilliant account of Mr Robinsons Journey from Newcastle-Upon-Tyne to Hawick 31/01/2020 The fact that I have bothered to sit down/ write this account and the subsequent fact that you, my reader, are prepared to sift through this work in an attempt to be informed/entertained by my frightful journey to the town of Hawick on the 31st January 2020, says much of my clear notoriety. I’m assuming this has been read after my death through miss adventure, murder but hopefully not anything as mundane as old age. You have turned to me for a description of the state of the nation at the new decade begins. The following is therefore a truthful account of what I found. I must begin with my reasons for travelling to Hawick. A town previously of great riches bought by industry, cashmere for the most part which followed the weaving of tweed. This between the wars, that is WW1 and WW2 “Britain’s finest hours”, formed the most perfect of Victorian towns. The High Street was built to rival Edinburgh, with Italianate Banks, the Scott’s revival minaret festooned town hall and large stone built factories, woollen mills and houses appropriate for captains of industry. Fine tenements for the workers hid behind the thoroughfare rising to five or six stories high. The result was a town with a wonderful form, something Charles Barry would have been proud of. And furthermore the earnest toil of the inhabitants’ made for a proud townfolk. A place of clear importance and a key pivot in the world of textile industry, Hawick was clearly a town that was worth visiting. Unfortunately, I’m a) living in 2020 and therefore Britain doesn’t bother with industry anymore, b) I’m English not Scottish and therefore the journey requires visiting a foreign land where I can’t understand any of the noises that the population make, c) Hawick has become rather cut off from the rest of Britain and therefore getting to this dot on the map, does happen to take quite a long time. I was therefore forced to set off at an unholy hour, some time before daylight, which was a surprise because I’d forgotten that it could be dark in the morning as well as the evening. 630 was a challenge. The other thing that you should note is that unlike the civilised world (south of Oxford, Oxfordshire being the questionable lands between the no go and okay, if you’ve listened to Pan Airs on Cassette tape you’ll know what happens to you if you live north of the Thames) you’ll find its always windy. Cycling therefore in the ‘North’ is an endeavour which should only be attempted if it’s a last resort. I should also point out that the roads are , as cyclists say “ rough”, with “false flat’s” and have drivers motorcar drivers on them which are “.........*****” and should not have driving licences! How they passed their driving tests is beyond thought. The following endeavour of four score miles (80 miles) was something not to be undertaken in a mood. But it was dark 630 and therefore I was in one. The road to Hawick from Newcastle-Upon-Tyne was of course the only road, because Northumbria has nothing in it and has refused to gift England with anything of any use. The result therefore is an unpleasant ride, all of which is up hill and all of which involves cycling towards Scotland, past nothing to delight or entertain me, activities that in hindsight are both rubbish. In fact I’d probably advise doing it in the dark. Its slightly less depressing. The road was wide, probably improved in the 70’s and definitely not improved since. The verge littered with WW2 pill boxes, where great men sat hiding from their wives, rather magnificent wind turbines of which most were obscured by cloud, and miserable sheep. None of this is good for cycling. The highlight of the English part of the journey was the rain, that on account of the 30mph SW wind and the I assume magnificent altitude I’d grafted up to by 1000 was now hail, the pain of which as it hit my face, gave me something else to think about. On passing the last Cafe in England, a magnificent establishment, due to a) the low wall I hid behind to have a cheese sandwich b) it was in England and not Scotland, I felt I was truly gaining on new territory although the fact that it was the “last Cafe in England” did suggest some peril ahead. As I ascended into the fog, the Scottish border marked by two miserable rocks with Scotland chalked on the side in lay-by, offered a modicum of self congratulation. Unfortunately the subsequent embarrassing scene of a fat ‘man with a van’ stumbling out of his TraaaansI’ before cussing at the wind, taking a picture of said van next to said rock, with me in shot, rather removed any sense that I’d achieved much of anything, mainly because I hadn’t.

I should now offer my first impressions of Scotland which rather than the romantic Water Scott inspired pros I’d imagine you my dear reader would expect from my hand, were as follows a) I was now heading west into 50mph winds and I couldn’t control the bike b) Scotland is wetter than England c) Scotland is a horrid miserable place with nothing in it. Unfortunately the journey which up until this point has only required one rhetorical quip with a lorry driver was interrupted by an event which involved interacting with someone from Scotland. On the A6088, with a wind so persistent that my very best of efforts was only resulting in the front wheel straying within 6ft of where I’d intended it to go, a mad man attempted to overtake, and in an absurd act of macho bravado did not do as he should have done and use the 4x4 capabilities of his VW and by entering the perfectly well provided field to his right, instead he mealy used the right hand side of the road to attempt an overtake. Which at that moment I was also about to stray into! The words shouted, presumably Scottish but maybe Swedish (it all sounds the same) I can’t be bothered to spell. This ‘incident’ could have been entirely avoided if the Scottish population could every now and again maintain their hedgerows, which would have provided me with adequate wind protection. I of course being a cyclist, which you must understand in liberal minded England are considered angels of the road, second only to the Pope, and often praised in newsprint for their use of the tarmac, their patience and generosity, I was not in the wrong. On arrival to Hawick (a grand/magnificent bastion in a hard won, tamed valley, far beyond the barren and windy hills to its south) which of course was not a disappointment for this is no ordinary town, I was jubilant. On arrival, past admittedly a shambolic array of used car sales garages, a large disused Victorian house, badly maintained industrial sights, derelict tarmac forecourts and cycling on the worst bit of tarmac my poor wheels had ever ran over (other than the pidgin smeared Halifax pavements of 2008) the High Street was like an embrace in contrast to the vast countryside I’d come from. Obviously my fame had not been completely established by this point, so early in my career, but as the town revealed itself and the towering stone façades morphed into a pleasingly stoic rhythm, with (as I was to learn very Scottish) gesticulations from the town hall, shop fronts and dormer windows, I saw out the corner of my eye a Union Jack being place in a window a couple of stories up. This was clearly a sign that English men are welcome even in these very Scottish of lands. Of course you could also suggest that this was because it was Brexit Day. Hawick is a town which uses its elevation in a way surely no other town in Britain does. The water courses (which powered the woollen mills (in times gone by) flow at the very base of the town seemingly flowing from deep within the earth, maybe five meters below the level of the High Street. The Train Line and Mill Lie must have ran far higher, at the summit of the town at the top of a significant hill, resulting in industry rather than huddling in one lonely spot, spreading and looming over every façade in the town, leading to constant collision. With stone mills seemingly forming the bedrock in which the rest of the town accommodates itself within, the dereliction of these buildings now results in exciting vertical contradictions, the ruins of former industry magnificently framing town life, elbowing their way into every shot. It’s the only town I have ever been to which is so secretive when depicted on a map. The view, the moments of interaction between the buildings is wonderfully dynamic. Yet stand at the Millennium Bridge (or whoever they cared to name the very ‘of its type’ white lump after) and the town becomes one magnificent piece of architecture, A Victorian collision of magnificent variety. Something Charles Barry would have been proud of. Of course at this point and in full Ian Nairn mode, I was reminded abruptly that I was in Scotland. It was raining again, and now the heat was out of my legs. I was cold. Furthermore a drunk man on an electric bike was now explaining his machine to me(well I think he was but the sounds that he was spitting out at me made no sense to my ears and neater did my English seem to illicit any reaction to his ears). The universally understood shopkeepers “*** off “ however was making an impact. And I took that as my queue to indeed do that.

Unfortunately my Nairn-ing had resulted in a delay and as a result/looking to not repeat the misery of cycling in the dark again, instead of peddling the 60 miles back to Newcastle, with what now had become a strong head wind even at this low level, I instead continued cycling another 20 or so miles north to find the rather miserable sounding Galasheils (which I subsequently, after an exchange with a bus driver, did). The following four hours of this journey, 1430 when I boarded the newly established Borders Railway till nr 1830 when I arrived back at Newcastle-Upon-Tyne, in England! were eye opening. Mainly showing to me (a former motorist) that public transport, its employees, and the whole concept of the ‘train’ is abhorrent/ flawed and the worst thing I’ve ever encountered. Worse even than Scotland itself. Now of course, now I’ve written about arriving to Hawick, the return journey is of no consequence. I’ll keep this short. Also the subsequent pub visit, and another, and then a train to Tynemouth before several more public house visits can attest to the recovery needed after this part of the day. The a) £65 ticket from Tweed Bank to Newcastle was robbery! b) NLER’s insistence that I had to pre-book the bike on a train even though I’d already been on a train with the bike was incredibly stupid, c) the hurling of said bike into a carriage half a mile in front of first class and then bellowing at me to go to poverty class at the very other end of the train, which with my rather uncomfortable cycling attire could have easily resulted in an unfortunate injury or five d) the subsequent threat that my bike would be taken to Kings Cross if I didn’t get a move on once I arrived a Newcastle e) on arrival at Newcastle the irate shouting by the station woman that my bike would be taken to Kings Cross if I didn’t get a move on . And thus my journey was over. My account of Hawick I trust will be of great value as a historic record and provide reference for learned minds for years to come/record my grand journeys made in pursuit of knowledge. Inspired by the work of Ceilia Fiennes.

Road to Hawick; Weathered pilbox, Closed Peter Scott Mill

Left Slitrig Water, Hawick Factory; Bowling green under mill Right Hawick Libuary; N. facing facade behind the Highstreet

(Hoik) It is the pride of its independent identity which has led Hawick to, in the Victorians familiar vernacular, build upon the sandstone farm houses, green slate covered towers, mullioned windows and crenulated bastions and place the town hall with turrets and towers at the centre of stone mills to form a block of townscape with grandeur akin to Edinburgh in its ambition. The town, seemingly made of standard componentary, stolen tropes to form a badge of identity, you could right-off as neo-localism. However the re-discovery of provincial eclectic happenstance, allowed for a reinvention, a provocative pride. History formed after the fact thus the monster leads to the discovery. The result saw a retrospective history, imported imaginings became owned by the population. (Quendall 1972)

‘The retrospective offers opportunity to capture and re-invent’

Hawick is a town of creation and re-invention, which through the textile industry has depicted a ‘new’ nation through its fiction, its believable past. Authenticity is achieved through the narrative rather than highlighting a complete timeline. The result is a ‘total’ notion, on which the town can build the captivating scene of integrated narratives. Let me try to untangle that. There is an undeniable assurance in the repetition of the past, referencing your life to those who have been before us (Aston 1991) . A theme which the picturesque movement captured, romantic imagery which provided escapism yet formed a new landscape of ‘believable’ history (Gilpin 1772). The retrospective offers opportunity to capture and re-invent. As Frank Lloyd Right assimilation of the elemental South American architecture was transposed into North America, capturing the optimism of the USA, Hawick built upon the craft of cashmere products, a tradition from the foot hills of the Himalayas in order to promote a Scottish aptitude for the production of quality crafted garments. Hawick has become notable for its production of fine Cashmere jumpers, made from Mongolian wool.Hawick embraced Cashmere because wool garments are an ingrained, part of Boarders life (Don 2015) . The Tweed textiles which are produced in Hawick for example appear grown out of the soil of Scotland, yet sell the physicality of the land as an international commodity. Embellishing the source appears a very Scottish attitude, Tartan the famous example of the fact. Its image popularised by the Jacobite rebellion, after its political connotations saw the sale of Tartan cloth banned; the Highland Society of London revoked the ban of Tartan and planted the seed of myth and provenance of the cloth. There was no tradition of fixed style pattens given to Scottish textiles in the 1790’s. Yet the Celtic society seized the opportunity to evoke their lands through the patterns of woven textile. Walter Scott used the Tartan kilt to evoke a national identity. The ‘Wardrobes of the Scott’s’, by John and Charles Allen of Godalming, Surrey, was the culmination of the invention. Each region of Scotland, even the Boarders being gifted the Border Tartan’s, through myth, where united as one nation through wool (Bethall 2012) . The 1850’s saw Lowland Tartan clad soldiers evoking a chivalric past, a corralling sentiment of nationhood based upon nothing more than fantasy. Tartan gifts the comfort of tribal division yet with scant detail. There is comfort in the separation. The identity Scottish textile gifts therefore is a neo-chivalric product of popular taste. The very notion of Hawick is that it is sited within the shadow of the kingdom, an unobserved nucleus of industry and creativity. It retains a seductive charm, a humility brought on by its intrepid independence, to bring the world to its door and craft with a quality unsurpassed. The nature of weaving is that it is an intimate building of the textile, a methodical repetitive inception. It could be argued that the foundations of the town are within the written word, the legend of its hills, and the engineering/control of its landscape the result of an industry exporting a quantifiable physical myth of Scottishness. The product takes comfort in conformity, comfort in structure and repetition; revelling in a history taken for granted. The notable point is that Hawick retains the tradition of writing the story. The Wool industry, breeding sheep, milling, tanning, weaving Tweed or Cashmere, has built its reputation upon the charming national ‘traditions’, folk law and modern rituals of a recent Scottish identity (Scotts 1812) . The practice of Hawick’s industry, the French mechanisation of the weaving machine, the international fashion industry promoting Scottish made material as global iconography, the raw fleece both from Beijing markets and the Cheviot hills, have formed an industrial town producing garments with a recognisable status without the weighty tracability of fact; an aspirational ‘Country life’ (Holland Apollo Magazine 06 august 2018 ) , romance for all things Highlands, Scotland, colloquial crafted luxury without the hindrance of honest scrutiny. Its product, without the crippling restriction of tradition, are allowed to progress without hindrance.

‘There was no tradition of fixed styles given to Scottish textiles in the 1790’s’

Hawick has now been saddled with 70 years of industrial decline, acres of industrial landscape, (Nairn 1972) water systems, mill lees, warehouses and railway track, tanneries and mills, sheds, stores, shops design houses, have been lost. Land remains vacant or stands oblique, with tarmac surfaces covering the voids, leading to steel sheds, with a few large mills remaining between supermarkets. The Plan of the town has suffered with a void following the River Teviot. Slitrig Water (the smaller river and site of the inception of the water powered mills in Hawick) has lost its instruction as engine driver. It is the question of our time. What do we do with the post-industrial landscape that engineer’s are negating? The summer of 2019 saw the felling of Didcot PowerStation in South Oxfordshire. Seen as a symbol of mans destruction, mans wilful ruinous attitude towards the world, its four grand chimneys have now been plucked from the skyline in order to allow the Oxfordshire plain and Berkshire Downs to forget the burning of coal. (Meades 2007) Don’t question the distruction of a beautiful object; don’t question the intent to destroy the only piece of architecture between Oxford and Highclere! South Oxfordshire has been reclaimed as a polite, simple forgetful place of cottages in commuter land. The ideal dystopia can never be reclaimed.

The very notion of Hawick is that it is sited within the shadow of the kingdom, an unobserved nucleus of industry and creativity. It retains a seductive charm, a humility brought on by its intrepid independence, to bring the world to its door and craft with a quality unsurpassed. The nature of weaving is that it is an intimate building of the textile, a methodical repetitive inception. It could be argued that the foundations of the town are within the written word, the legend of its hills, and the engineering/control of its landscape the result of an industry exporting a quantifiable physical myth of Scottishness. The product takes comfort in conformity, comfort in structure and repetition; revelling in a history taken for granted. The notable point is that Hawick retains the tradition of writing the story.

The mills and factories inhabit both the waters edge at the bottom of the town (c) and the course of the railway at the sumit (a). The result is that day to day life inhabits a thin band of territory (b), surrounded by the machinery of the town.

Johnstons of Elgin, Hawick peddles a romantic image of Scotland, rendering Hawick invisible to the world.

John Laing, (Hawick) of Scotland.

Hawicks mills, its heritage and the skill of its population hold international value invisible to the world.

Hawick Knitwear, brand Scotland. The image of Scotishness, its myth, is the saleable commodity.

Pringle of Scotland, in the town of Hawick. Brand Scotland. The only image of the town

As destruction provides the carcase, it provides the beginning. An Ideal Dystopia High-Rise, 2016 film directed by Ben Wheatley, is set in an English Brutalist tower and captures the isolation and social pariah-ism formed by the concrete in which the residents are entombed. Each floor mimics the social level the residents have achieved. Each floor elevated above the one below, meaning each upward journey increasingly highlights the characters disjuncture with the ground, with reality. It is the Architect which lives on the top floor of his own masterpiece; his own social experiment which quickly falls to ruin. Yet it is that ruin which offers subsequent opportunity. As destruction provides the carcase, so too does it provide the beginning. The nature of the plan means each floor communicates only with those directly below or directly above them, forming a tower of misunderstood encounters, each isolated within their own social context. Not dissimilar to Hawicks’ short sighted writing of history which forgets the slave trade, empire and the jolly destruction of distant grass lands in order to produce cashmere yarn. (Wheatley 2016) The Brutalist setting is perfect because it is easy to fail to see its magnificent stance. The resulting ‘eyesore’ of which many have been grabbed away, demolished or refaced, follow the same story as Victorian goliaths in the 1960’s. Many destroyed only to see their eclecticism celebrated in the 1980’s. Paul Virilio 1932-2018, in photographing The Atlantic Wall, captured an elemental formation of impolite rocks, concrete monsters and built form violent yet of mechanical, military logic; photographs of striking similarity to those of genteel ‘Country Life’ as it seeks to depict the new discovery, the romantic wild untamed beauty of Scotland. There is nothing more ‘twee’ than Tweed. Yet Hawick has not fallen into the doctorial trap. Although some of the town is reminiscent of the story it peddles most is either exploring wantent destruction of the mess, to form something of mechanical physical logic; the rather unapologetic car parks of Tescos, Morrisons and Lidle, whilst its heart, the mills or factories, of which many still stand and work, fail to fall to the international machine. Of course it’s a town with no right to arbitrary pleasantries. But that’s fine. It’s industrial. There is no need to be polite. That is why the detached reproduced corporate temples, fracturing corporate culture and cosy corporate image will never stick to this town.

It’s industrial. There is no need to be polite

Stobbs Prisoner of War Camp (just to the south of Hawick) stood testiment to the isolated perseption of the Borders. Cashmere woven on machines from Paris, exporting product to the great fashion capitals of Europe and weaving in the Scottish tradition before export to London and Milan could not sumount the ditached enclave the Tiviot and Tweed have always been . The narrative Hawick peddled of merciantile ambition suddenly became of Scottish nationhood, blossoming with a provincial pride blinkered to the outward industrial hope it once harboured. The Townscape reflects this, with ruins seemingly trapping the population in past gloryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. However the provincial, the remote setting Hawick has always used to its advantage, away from the scrutiny of modern mechanisms, I suggest could be the setting for a re-discovery of narrative. A narrative that does not maintain the trops of Scottish tales and instead promotes its willingness to import ideas and export a uniquely Hawick product. By producing something of Hawicks making, rather than of Scotish whimsy, the town will be required to take control of its townscape once more and promote its image as a distinguished weaving capital with much greater in common with the textile capitals of the world than its Lowland base.

A Mercantile Spirit Hawick the Perpetual Frontier

MArch 2020 Michael Robinson

Brief ‘To be industrial is to stand apart from our norm. It is an extreme environment in which its inhabitants operate, yet one which offers whimsy even loyalty because it is a symbol of prosperity as well as protection.’

Stood in the borders, between foreign land, not un-emotional, not wholly logical, incomprehensible to non-players, dour, Stubborn, blunt, the industrial landscape offers a purity of form which stands apart from the mere domestic. To be industrial is to stand apart from our norm. It is an extreme environment, in which its inhabitants operate, yet one which offers whimsy even loyalty because it is a symbol of prosperity as well as protection. Hawicks’ lack of prosperity gives stability to its built environment but also allows for an assumption of a static trapped society. These communities, on the edge of both Carlisle and Edinburgh, isolated from Bellingham, Kings Cross and St Pancras, may as well develop their connection to Beijing, Marrakesh and Palermo. An industrial town will always maintain an optimistic outlook, will always be able to absorb. The industrial character leads to strong identity, an ambitious generosity. Hawick has the product, the raw material, the tradition, the independence. Why settle for terminal isolation? In the same vain as Walter Scott and John and Charles Allen, The Waverly Railway Line which brought romantic Victorian travellers, a future without dwindling mundanety can be written, invented.

‘A noble stoicism, amplifying a facade of an ambitious town with an earnest reputation’

Hawick has a noble stoicism, amplifying a facade of an ambitious town with an earnest reputation, promoting an industrial consensus which aims for respectability. Behind the High Street remains the sheds and warehouses, buildings in the periphery of architecture, buildings the town insists it shouldn’t acknowledge. The tenements, workshops, studios, toil; valed for good appearances ensuring a transient guest may not indulge in a view beyond the ‘best room’. A construction of industrial sensibility, in pursuit of better, Hawicks’ townscape is a built image of its contradictory character. There is a delight in the contradiction between pure functional sheds, stores, factories and mills, compeered to the artistry of facade, bank, tailors and the Town Hall which is an exclamation mark in the skyline. There’s an ambition for grandeur which the public facing image of business embodies. The town offers a believable perception which shields the earnest toil behind its doors. The graft, the spontaneity, the mess and consequence of industry hides behind brand ‘Scotland’, behind sandstone streets along wynds. The workings of the town, its grubby mechanics are championed yet not revealed. Hawick is Mercantile (Guo 2005). Contrived. “Beauty in things exists in the mind which contemplates them”. Scottish poet and philosopher David Hume, Of the Standard of Taste and Other Essays, originally published in 1757 An atypical character, dramatic, the architecture of industry Leeds Town Hall for example is devoid of selfcontuse concern. This is self evident in Hawick, even if its provincial restriction results in conspicuous restraint.

Proposed Output

Project Proposal: Promote the mercantile spirit of Hawick by condensing its product and celebrating an ambitious character with the export of wool façades. After visiting Hawick for the first time, I describe the view of Hawick (from the valley floor towards the town Hall) as grand/Gothic, a façade akin to St Pancras or the Palace of Westminster, which although an exaggeration does capture the ambitious mood of this industrial town. There is also clear parallel in the ornament of these structures which has little to do with the thrift of modern Britain. As time passes and the ruins of the wool industry become stoic backdrops, the cultural significance of such places does not disappear. Hawicks’ industrial mentality necessitates import, production and then export. An industrial town thrives on being a nucleus dedicated to one product. The population morphs, (migrates) to one devout focus. Although I have explored Hawicks remote, ditched character, its forgotten part in the story of wool and the opportunity to conjure a new fiction for the town, I don’t believe Hawick would choose to dramatically change its focus; instead celebrating its origins and writing it’s part in the inception of the international wool trade to greater providence. Hawick is willing to grab our attention even pillage a romantic sensibility. How very Scottish. However Hawick should not remain a pariah. The ruinous dereliction of the town should instruct its future role. The town’s fabric (its stone façades) should not be seen as a burden. Survival surely, like all monuments, lies in its peddled story. In order to mitigate the decline of the town, I propose to condense/sample the manufacture of cashmere garments, tweed fabrics and Hawick woollen textiles (the woolen industries still remaining in the sheds and mills of Hawick). By repositioning the knowledge of cashmere and wool back to the centre of the town, the dexterity of craft can become an object for tourists delight and mercantile promotion. I suggest this will take the form of a ‘mill’, inhabiting the carcase of the High Street, framing production or product as well as safeguarding the highstreet as a jewel within a landscape of fading industry.

However with industry must come notoriety, relationships and the opportunity to research and discover. The ability to trade with afar must be at the centre of Hawicks’ rebuilding to mitigate against continued isolation. The ‘mill’ therefore musts also cater for the production of a new product that will carry the iconography, physicality and narrative of ‘brand Hawick’. This new focus for the town will be the catalyst which allow Hawick to aspire beyond its current narrative and present to the world afresh. The Scottish Boarders as a result will no longer subsist within the locality; instead will relied upon far reaching empires and a tangled global network. This industrial inclination to protect and nurture yet learn and absorb has never left the town. By producing tapestry like, woolen façades, hawick will be able to re-inhabit its existing buildings as well as from new façades to promote the towns manufacturing prowess. Wool will easily manipulate, incorporating forms and integrating Scottish and contradictory cultural iconography. The quantity of wool required will necessitate re-establishing connections to Beijing and Australia, who will also act as natural customers for the lightweight malleable facade technology. The project therefore aims for two scales of impact, to represent and celebrate artisan craft and small scale manufacturing currently the staple of Hawick and offer the opportunity for grander manufacturing ambition even invention.

Proposed Output Project Proposal: Promote the mercantile spirit of Hawick by condensing its product and celebrating an ambitious character with the export of wool façades. After visiting Hawick for the first time, I describe the view of Hawick (from the valley floor towards the town Hall) as grand/Gothic, a façade akin to St Pancras or the Palace of Westminster, which although an exaggeration does capture the ambitious mood of this industrial town. There is also clear parallel in the ornament of these structures which has little to do with the thrift of modern Britain. As time passes and the ruins of the wool industry become stoic backdrops, the cultural significance of such places does not disappear. Hawicks’ industrial mentality necessitates import, production and then export. An industrial town thrives on being a nucleus dedicated to one product. The population morphs, (migrates) to one devout focus. Although I have explored Hawicks remote, ditched character, its forgotten part in the story of wool and the opportunity to conjure a new fiction for the town, I don’t believe Hawick would choose to dramatically change its focus; instead celebrating its origins and writing it’s part in the inception of the international wool trade to greater providence. Hawick is willing to grab our attention even pillage a romantic sensibility. How very Scottish. However Hawick should not remain a pariah. The ruinous dereliction of the town should instruct its future role. The town’s fabric (its stone façades) should not be seen as a burden. Survival surely, like all monuments, lies in its peddled story. In order to mitigate the decline of the town, I propose to condense/sample the manufacture of cashmere garments, tweed fabrics and Hawick woollen textiles (the woolen industries still remaining in the sheds and mills of Hawick). By repositioning the knowledge of cashmere and wool back to the centre of the town, the dexterity of craft can become an object for tourists delight and mercantile promotion. I suggest this will take the form of a ‘mill’, inhabiting the carcase of the High Street, framing production or product as well as safeguarding the highstreet as a jewel within a landscape of fading industry. However with industry must come notoriety, relationships and the opportunity to research and discover. The ability to trade with afar must be at the centre of Hawicks’ rebuilding to mitigate against continued isolation. The ‘mill’ therefore musts also cater for the production of a new product that will carry the iconography, physicality and narrative of ‘brand Hawick’. This new focus for the town will be the catalyst which offers Hawick to aspire beyond its current narrative and present to the world afresh. The Scottish Boarders as a result will no longer subsist within the locality; instead will rely upon far reaching empires and a tangled global network. This industrial inclination to protect and nurture yet learn and absorb has never left the town. By producing tapestry like, woolen façades, hawick will be able to re-inhabit its existing buildings as well as from new façades to promote the towns manufacturing prowess. Wool will easily manipulate, incorporating forms and integrating Scottish and contradictory cultural iconography. The quantity of wool required will necessitate re-establishing connections to Beijing and Australia, who will also act as natural customers for the lightweight malleable facade technology. The project therefore aims for two scales of impact, to represent and celebrate artisan craft and small scale manufacturing currently the staple of Hawick and offer the opportunity for grander manufacturing ambition even invention.

‘Promote’ ‘Hawick is willing to grab our attention even pillage a romantic sensibility’ ‘propose to condense/sample the manufacture of cashmere garments, tweed fabrics and Hawick woollen textiles’ ‘inhabiting the carcase of the High Street, framing production or product as well as safeguarding the highstreet as a jewel within a landscape of fading industry’ ‘allow Hawick to aspire beyond its current narrative and present to the world afresh’ ‘new focus for the town will be the catalyst which offers Hawick to aspire beyond its current narrative’ ‘re-establishing connections to Beijing and Australia’

Micro-fabrication and Mas-fabrication

Weaver, with a Baby in a High Chair Vincent van Gogh, Jan 1884

Hawick is addicted to weaving. The modern cashmere industry is a layering of the Scots' weaving tradition, contemporary technology, the skill of craft, international trade and the training of successive generations. However these connotations have reduced Hawick to exporting minimal high yield product, which find no physical exposure in the townscape. Furthermore the studios and weaving mills inhabit the periphery of the town and focus their attention to tropes of Scottish Highland identity which do not support the Borders continual production. By exporting architectural tapestry in combination with cashmere garments, produced in a new mill in the centre of the town, I propose that Hawick will be able to reflect its own image and incorporate both the worldly inspiration which built the town and founded its social structures, as well as allowing the provincial character formed by Hawicks growing isolation and tourists gaze. Risking the export of a new product that may incorporate a uniquely Lowlands perspective I surmise will be the catalyst that allows the town and its valley to form afresh.

Bibliography

Analysis, Cashmere Value Chain. Cashmere Value Chain Analysis. US Industrial Development: US AID publi., 2011. Anderson, A (et al.,)., Chronicle of Melrose (London, 1936) Time Signs S01. Performed by Mick Aston. 1991. Baxter, Jenny. “Melrose and Jedbrough.” English Heritage, 1997: 1-63. History of Tartan. Directed by BBC Scotland. Performed by D.C Bethall. 2012. Broun, D & Harrison, J (eds.). “The chronicle of Melrose: a stratigraphic edition, vol.1.” Woodbridge, 2007. Broun, D & Harrison, J (eds.)., The chronicle of Melrose: a stratigraphic edition, vol.1 (Woodbridge, 2007) Castle, Stirling. Stirling Autobiography . 2013-2019. https://www.stirling.gov.uk/stirlings-history/stirling/key-events-from-stirlings-history/ (accessed December 9, 2019). Catford, Nick. “Waverley Line.” http://www.disused-stations.org.uk/, 12 June 2015: 01-21. Col, Royal Agricultural. “RAC.” www.rbst.org.uk. 3 MAY 2019. https://www.rbst.org.uk/Pages/Category/sheep-watchlist?gclid=Cj0KCQiAsbrxBRDpARIsAAnnz_PMaIgA82SIWnnc4olimnJBSN3UpADI-0xHYinJY8oNAzJ8KPJdjDAaAhoQEALw_wcB&Take=25 (accessed November 22, 2019). Cowan, I. & Easson, D., Medieval Religious Houses: Scotland (London, 1976) Cruden, S.H., ‘Scottish Medieval Pottery: the Melrose Abbey collection’, Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, vol.87 (Edinburgh, 1952-3) Cruft, K., Dunbar, J. & Fawcett, R., The Buildings of Scotland: Borders (New Haven, 2006) Dennison, E.P. & Coleman, R., Historic Melrose: the archaeological implications of development (Edinburgh, 1998) Map Man: Travels Across Eight Maps that Changed the Face of Britain. Directed by BBC Two. Performed by Nicholas Crane. 2015. Defoe, Daniel. A tour thro’ the whole island of Great Britain, divided into circuits or journies. London: JM Dent and Co, 1727 10th Letter and 11th letter. Craft: Weaving. Directed by BBC Documentry. Performed by Monty Don. 2015. Ewart, G., Gallagher, D. & Sherman, P., ‘Graveheart: culture and burial in a Cistercian chapter house: excavations at Melrose, 1921 and 1996’, Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, vol.139 (Edinburgh, 2009) Fawcett, R. & Oram, R., Melrose Abbey (Stroud, 2004) Fawcett, R., The Architecture of the Scottish Medieval Church (New Haven & London, 2011) RCAHMS., Inventory of the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Roxburghshire (Edinburgh, 1956) Fiennes, Celia. Accounts of 1698: Through England on a Side Saddle in the Time of William and Mary. London: Field and Tuer, The Leadenhall Press written in 1702, 1888. Gilpin, William. “Observations, Relative Chiefly to Picturesque Beauty, Made in the Year 1772, on Several Parts of England; Particularly the Mountains, and Lakes of Cumberland, and Westmoreland.” In Observations, Relative Chiefly to Picturesque Beauty, Made in the Year 1772, on Several Parts of England, by M. A. Prebendary of Salisbury William Gilpin, 1-24. Salisbury: M. A. Prebendary of Salisbury, 1772. Haldane, A.R.B. The Drove Roads of Scotland . Highland Livestock Heritage Society: Birlinn Ltd; New edition edition, 2015. Harrison, Dauvit Broun & Julian. A stratigraphic edition. Vol. 1. Introduction and facsimile edition. Glasgow: Scottish History Society Gothic Manuscript Books, 2008. HES. Scheduled Monument (SM90214); Listed Building. STATEMENT OF SIGNIFICANCE Melrose Abbey, Edinbrugh: HISTORIC ENVIRONMENT SCOTLAND, 2011. Holland, Charles. “ The Eclectic Country Houses of George Devey.” Apollo, Apollo Magazine 06 august 2018 (acc.Dec 2019): https://www. apollo-magazine.com/the-eclectic-country-houses-of-george-devey. HoP. “historyofparliamentonline.” historyofparliamentonline. 2008. https://www.historyofparliamentonline.org/england-scotland-and-treaty-union-1706-08 (accessed October 21, 2019). Kelley, N. “‘Is Pashmina Pulling The Wool Over Our Eyes?’.” 2009: Magazine, 41. . L.O, Tyson. “Sir Bevis Bulmer. An Elizabethan Adventurer.” British Mining No.57 pp.47-69, 1996: 69. Britain at Low Tide. Directed by Channel 4 Documentary Series. Performed by Tori Herridge and Alex Langlands. 2016. Map, The Gough. “The Gough Map.” The Gough Map. Britain, 1350. Jonathan Meades Father To The Man. Directed by BBC Scotland Abroad Again. Performed by Jonathan Meades. 2007. Moffat, Alistair. Hawick: A History from Earliest Times. 2014. Nairn Across Britain: From Leeds into Scotland. Directed by BBC Colour Television. Performed by Ian Nairn. 1972. Port, Berwick-Upon-Tweed the Castle and its. “English Herritage.” English Herritage Education PDF source. 01 October 2014. www.EnglishHerritageEducation.co.uk/SauEduFold (accessed 2019 20, November). Purcell, T. Scotland and China and Cashmere Trade. 1996. Quendall, Ann. “Victorians and the Gothic.” In Victorians and the Gothic Spirit, by Ann Quendall, 99-131. London: Hartwistle, 1972. Britain From The Air: Norfolk. Directed by Channel 4. Performed by Robinson. 2017. Scotts, Walters. Waverly, Tis Sixty Years Since. 1812. Snow, Dan. BBC BRITISH HISTORY. 6 July 2007. http://www.bbc.co.uk/history/british/middle_ages/hundred_years_war_01.shtml (accessed December 1, 2019). Speed, John. The theatre of the empire of Great Britaine: presenting an exact geography of the kingdomes of England, Scotland, Ireland. Published 1611/1612 (Map of Northumberland 1607). T.H.Rowland. “Dere Street: Roman road north from York to Scotland.” In Dere Street, by Thomas H Rowland, 22-24. Bristol: Northern history booklet, 1974. Time Team Roxbrough. Directed by Channel 4 Doc. Performed by T.Robinson. 2006. English Architecture: Gothic. Directed by Gresham College. Performed by Professor Simon Thurley. 2012. High-Rise. Directed by Ben Wheatley. 2016. Qitao Guo. Ritual opera and mercantile lineage : the Confucian transformation of popular culture in late Imperial Huizho Stanford University Press 2005 Zimmern, Helen. The Hanseatic League. Didactic Press Paperbacks, 2017.

Project inputs Proposed new timetable for Hawick. In order to sustain the project three distinct inputs are required. a) Cashmere from China, transported along the ‘belts and road’ infrastructure; quickening the delivery of raw material and more readily allowing for a cyclical import/export of product between Hawick and the former ‘silk road’. b) Tourists from the West Coast of England, Edinburgh and Scotland’s Est Coast. This will sustain the physicality of the town, its stone fecades and allow Hawick to act as gateway to Scotland. c) The import of raw sheep fleece to form the base of exportable woolen tapestry façades; opening the international market to hawick and trading Scottish product globally. These distinct inputs will allie to the stratigraphy of the site and be influenced by the levels which form the structure of the town.

Carlisle to Edinburgh via Hawick

Miles from Carlisle Down.

London

Connections

309 ¼ “ Euston 311 ¼ “ St.Pancras Manchester (Victoria) “ (Exchange) Preston Sheffield ....(Sta. Road) Leeds ...........(Wellington) Bradford ...(Market St.) Citadel Station,

--Carlisle ...............................................d d e p. -Rockcliffe Cross (Esk River Crossing).. 6 ½ Ly n esid e -Sailby Castle (Sandysike Bridge) (St Michael’s Well) -Arthuret 9 ¾ Lo n g to w n .-- Netherby Roman Fort 12 Sc o ts D y k e .-Liddel Strength Castle .-Hollows .-- Windy Edge Standing Stones 21 ¼ K er sh o pe Fo o t .-Mangerton Tower 24 ¼ N ew c astle to n .-Hermitage .-Hermitage Viaduct 28 ¾ Steele R o ad .-Priest Hill 32 ¼ R ic c ar to n Ju n c tio n .-Maiden Paps .The Tinlee Stone .-- Catrail 38 ¼ Sh an k en d 41 ¼ Sto b s 45 ¼ H aw ic k .-- Fedgward Abbey .-- Ale Water .-- St Cuthbert’s way 57 ¾ St Bo sw ells 61 M elr o se 61 ¾ G alash iels .-- Selk ir k (Branch Line connection) .-Cross Boarders Drove Road .-Peeble s (Branch Line connection) .-Borthwick Castle (North Middleton) .-Roslin .-Penicuik to Musselburgh Cycle-Walkway .-Newbottle abbey (Dalkeith) 90 ¼ Esk ban k an d D alk eith .-Dalhousie Castle (Lothianbridge) 98 ¼ Ed in bu r g h Perth Aberdeen Glasgow Queen Street

d.22j15 d.21j15

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

.... .... .... 11 09 11 11 11 17 11 23 11 27 .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... 12 13

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

09 20 .... .... .... .... 09 37 09 57 .... .... .... .... 09 57 .... 10 03 .... .... 10 12 .... 10 20 .... .... .... 10 32 10 39 10 46

.... .... .... 11 09 11 11 11 17 11 23 11 27 .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... 12 13

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. .

ea v y figures d o n a t e t hro ugh c a rria ges

Light figures donate connecting services

Fo r G en e ra l N o t es see pa ge 10 Fo r o t h er t ra in s b et w e en Ed in b urg h a n d C a rlisl e se e T a b le 133

Left to right Waverley Railway Timetable; Proposed new timetable for Hawick, with inputs from the Waverley line, Cashmere markets in Beijing and Fleece from Australia

Site Survey Original pen drawings Scale 1:200@A1 Top: South Facing Elevation Hawick HighStreet Bottom: North Facing Rear Elevation, Confluence of Slitrig Water and Tiviot to right Town Hall Tower in N.Facing Highstreet Elevation beyond

Confluence of Slitrig Water and Tiviot

HighStreet - South Facing Elevation

Site Survey Original Scaled at 1:200@A1 Site Plan

Left to right Wool, woven tweeds, rough wool, 3D woven textile without seems; Aramid fibre (fire/heat resistant), Cleft Douglas Fir. Hawick is surrounded by pine plantations dating from the 1950â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s; Cast Concrete

Fleece to tailored garment Left to right Flock , livestock on marginal land; Shearing; Raw fleece; Grading waxy fleece; Trade ; Transport; Scotland; Wool towns; Wash; Aerate wool, Carding; spinning, Winding, Twisting, Length Winding; Drawing; Warping: Loom; Weaving; Darning; Tailoring

Scotland Wool Towns

Transport

Store

Trade

Grading waxy fleece

Raw fleece

Shearing

Flock , livestock on marginal land

Fleece to tailored garment

Spinning

Carding

Aerate wool

Extract Lanolin

Wash

Wool town markets

Weaving

Set Loom

Warping

Drawing

Length Winding

Dyeing

Twisting

Winding

Spinning

Fleece to tailored garment

Tailoring

Darning

Fabric

Warp/Weft

Import, Production, Export Hawicksâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; industrial mentality necessitates import, production and then export. An industrial town thrives on being a nucleus dedicated to one product (woven textile in Hawicks case) The population morphs, (migrates) to one devout focus. Map describes the import of tourists along the North South Waverley Line, the import of Cashmere and the import, processing and export of wool.

a) A Traditional, former stocking-manufacturing premises marking the transition between cottage and factory industries at the turn of the 19th century, which largely retains its original profile, including the distinctive, small, square, first-floor openings which would each have lit the space of one stocking-maker. This building is the only survivor of the type in Hawick Textile manufacturing, particularly of hosiery Description: HistoricEnvironmentScotland

HighStreet - South Facing Elevation

Site Survey Original pen drawings Scale 1:200@A1 Site Plan

a d a

c a

d b

a) Cashmere and wool weaving studio’s create intimate north facing space for small scale production of high ‘value’ product. b) Tourists from the West Coast of England, Edinburgh and Scotland’s Est Coast have visual connection to weavers from northern approach to Hawick and wool lined corridors from the HighStreet. c) Weaving shed for the mas fabrication of wool fecades. d) Wool fecades line the derelict HighStreet.

Sketch Plan Original pen drawings Scale 1:200@A1 HighStreet inhabited by wool structure with ‘mill’ and cashmere studios facing north.

a a

a) Craftsman working position, sightline between practitioners supporting community to separate from tourist experience

a a a

a a

Storage Silo for graded wool

HighStreet - South Facing Elevation

Sketch Plan Original pen drawings Scale 1:200@A1 Wool and ply studio towers,with bay windows facing north, frame the practitioners at work

a b

a a

c c

c c c

a b

a c c

c a

a b a b

c b

c c

a b c

Development of Section a) Cashmere weaving studio (micro-fabrication) b) HighStreet tourist interaction, tailors shop c) Wool facade production (mas production)

Three levels Paper 1:200 maquette a) North facing bay windowed weaving cashmere studios c) Weaving shed for the mas fabrication of wool fecades. f) Silo store

Mill as Machine Pen Section OD @1:100

Town Hall

Lantern

Slitrig Water Hydro input

North facing cashmere studios

b HighStreet

b) Street/tourist level c) Weaving Shed d) HydroElectric plant e) Wool Facade

Copied tropes suggesting a learnid town with an ambition of permanent cultural achievement

North Facing elevation populated with studio facades and additional crenellations, portraying an ambitious mercantile town creating object of tourist destination

Sketch Elevation Original pen drawings Scale 1:200@A1 Elevation facing Edinburgh

Sketch Section Original pen drawings Scale 1:100@A3 Timber arched structure with canopy and wool insert. Lantern over with canvas roof

Left to right Processing wool, hydroelectric route; Wool origin

Top Organisation of spaces Bottom Glazing share light and frames vertical sequencing

Weaving shed for masproduction e

a) Tourists gain glimpsed view into weaving shed and studios b) HighStreet and tourists introduction c) Weaving shed d) weaving studio and tailors shop e) Cashmere studio

Material Strat The tourist interaction with both micro and mas-production will be within the existing stone/brick shops in the HighStreet, modified with a new rear elevation addressing the lightweight weaving â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;shedâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; behind. Studios for crafted products will occupy the transition between HighStreet facade and industrial shed, controlling the tourists vision of industrial fabrication.

Rear elevation with lantern above

e c

a) Tourists gain glimpsed view into weaving shed and studios b) HighStreet and tourists introduction c) Weaving shed d) weaving studio and tailors shop e) Cashmere studio

Leaded light

a HighStreet

a) Cashmere and wool weaving studioâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s north-facing with glazed bays overlooking the Tiviot b) Tourists (access from the HighStreet) view into studios. Industrial shed below concealed c) Weaving shed for the mas fabrication of wool facades. d) Wool structure

a d

Ground line Tourists gaze into back lit studios beyond shed

Mechanical looms

Section Highstreet-Weaving Shed-Studio Original pen drawing Scale 1:100@A1

a) Cashmere studio b) Tourists/Public access c) Weaving shed e) Lantern f)Wool storage

e e

Existing HighStreet building

a e

e a

a Existing weavers workshop adapted for re-use

b b Section Highstreet-Studio-Weaving Shed Original pen drawing Scale 1:100@A1

Section Highstreet-Weaving Shed-Studio Original pen drawing Scale 1:100@A1

Section Highstreet-Studio-Weaving Shed Original pen drawing Scale 1:100@A1

New lantern over

Bay with timber hood over

Stone facade

Existing highstreet shop

Void behind existing structure

Former stocking-manufacturing shop. This building is the only survivor of the type in Hawick

Section Highstreet-Studio-Weaving Shed Original pen drawing Scale 1:100@A1

a d

Crenelations added with new glazed bay

b d

b c

North facing facade forms a show of mercantile bravado and suggests a confident town. The project sits within the towns fabric at the scale of the existing mill.

North Facing Elevation Steel glazed studio bays face north Original pen drawing Scale 1:200@A1

North Facing Elevation Section overlayed in scanner to explour levels falling away from the HighStreet to the Tiviot Scale 1:200@A1

a) Cashmere studio with canvas hood b) Weaving shed, Douglas Fir shell with suspended canvas interior c) Existing structure d)Glazed bay

Twisted Douglas Fir beam spanning over weaving shed

Weaving Shed

HighStreet

Plan Public Access-Tailors-Studio Transition through space with elevated studio to rear Original Scale 1:50@A1

North Facing Elevation Steel glazed studio bays face north Original pen drawing Scale 1:200@A1

Cashmere studio formed of wool structure with glass lantern over a) Cashmere studio b) Weaving shed, Douglas Fir shell c) Existing structure d)Glazed bay e)Existing workshop f)Public access

Section Original pen drawing Scale 1:200@A1

Integrated lantern Top lit structure brings natural light into the centre of the plan

Section Sketch exploring timber lattice structure over weaving shed Scale 1:50@A1

Twisted timber arches manipulate Burgage plots to form a repetitive structure running behind the HighStreet. Within these structures new spaces are formed either side of the 15m-20m span, in which the studios and retail inhabitation can be framed. The timber frames offer a malleable 'hammerbeam' shell structure which can morph around existing structures on site. The repetitive structure is a familiar religious vernacular.

Plan Proposed repeated timber arches Original Scale 1:200@A1

Slitrig Water

b c

HighStreet

a)Dye garden b)Lantern over cashmere weaving studio c)Lantern over retail space/public spaces inhabiting the existing highstreet

Roof Plan Proposed Tensile Roof with Lanterns over studios either side of weaving shed Original Scale 1:100@A0

Section Sketch of proposed timber shed resting on existing structures Original Scale 1:100@A1

Industrial production for international export re-established Hawick as an outward looking town that elevates its horizon beyond the Borders provincial trademark. Hawicks wool/cashmere weaving has left a physical presence within the town. Embeded knowledge elevated the textile industry to a complex mechanism throughout the Tweed basin. The Studios proposed, present within the tourists gaze, the skill of translating the Scottish landscape into textile and the continued production that has come to define the place. The tourists gaze necessitates a physicality to the project and ensures an architectural translation of an industrial setting.

Studios and practitioners working space inhabit the depth of the proposed twisted timber structure either side if the shed. The lantern located behind the existing highstreet buildings offer a top lit arcade to mark the transition between the publicly accessible highstreet shops and working space behind. This arrangement, with working spaces behind 'smart' formal facades mimics the structure of the existing townscape.

Private studio

Wool tapestry provides sound deadening and marks the transition between mas-production and craft

Tourists inhabit existing highstreet facade

Weaving Shed

Section Sketch of proposed timber shed framing transition between existing brick/stone and proposed timber/lantern lit structure Original Scale 1:100@A1

New addition to existing workshop New addition to existing workshop

Ply and wool construction used as a tool to re-inhabit existing empty structures

Level change used to brake up large hall allowing more intimate working spaces away of the observing gazes from outside,

Existing brick structure

Bay above marks vertical transition to studios over Tailors working space is semi-public and marks the transition between the public inhabitation of the existing highstreet and the craftmans 'train carriage' of studios running along the rear of the existing buildings Tailors workshop sits low under studios and timber lattice high above, acting as a natural focus for the plan, being viewed from both the public highstreet and the cashmere studios. The tailors also have view of the mas fabrication shed at a higher level beyond

Lower Ground Floor Plan Tailors workshop-Store under existing workshop Scale 1:100@A3

Wool facade with hood over

Existing workshop Existing workshop

Timber beam morphs to existing buildings

Timber beam spans 20m wool shed

Glazed wall between studios and wool shed

Tailors crucible below

Glazed bays mark vertical transition into private space

Atrium with lantern over

Wool inhabits existing highstreet buildings

Atrium with lantern over

Wool build inhabits existing highstreet structures

Existing shop

New courtyard formed with view towards wool structure insert, revealing new production to tourists

Raised viewpoint Mas production obscured from tourists gaze

Ground Floor Plan Public Retail- Cashmere StudiosWeaving Shed Scale 1:100@A3

Roof Plan Tensile roof over timber structure with lanterns marking vertical transition Scale 1:100@A3

Private studios and working space associated with mas-produced product within the weaving shed below Cashmere/hand loom studios for craftsman, located within the tourists gaze. Access from vertical bay. View to Tailors below Weaving shed concealed from tourists Highstreet and existing retail space with view into studios above

Plan Three levels mark opposing engagement from highstreet, revealing small scale production and obscuring mas production in order to sell an idealised perspective Scale 1:100@A3

Plan Scale 1:250@A3

New structure supports the layout of existing plots and integrates former workshops to form new environment that anchors itself within the towns existing narrative. This allows the new studios to take advantage of Hawicks provenance, celebrating a romantic provincialism

The highstreet remains broadly the same, re-inhabited with new inhabitants beyond the facade

HighStreet Elevation Scale 1:250@A3

Plan Scale 1:250@A3

HighStreet Elevation Scale 1:250@A3

The highstreet remains broadly the same, re-inhabited with new inhabitants beyond the facade

Being outside of the norm, trading on its remote location and relying on an independent, invented narrative; the proposal for Hawick should incorporate a suggestion of reinvention and take advantage of the opportunity to be outside of industrial convention. The importance of the narrative, the preoccupation with setting, a town that must encourage 'pilgrimage' to its door as normal footfall no-longer passes this way, necessitates a structure which engages with an aptitude for adroning municipal buildings with token gestures of Scottish identity. Furthermore to insert a hostire shed into the towns heart would not celebrate the continued occupation of the wool industry in the town and not declare a long-term ambition to re-establish Hawick as a world centre of weaving once more.

Section Laminated tie beam spans shuttering, perforating concrete slip.

New weaving shed to the north of the Highstreet, facing the road to Edinburgh.

Weaving Shed set behind HighStreet in Plan Original Scale 1:100 Package and export

Darning

Weaving

Length Winding Drawing Warping Set Loom

Dyeing

Spinning Winding Twisting

Dye garden

Carding

Aerate wool

Extract Lanolin

Wash raw waxy fleece

Low yield shearing for local flocks

Weaving Shed set behind HighStreet in Plan Original Scale 1:100 Dyeing

Spinning Winding Twisting

Dye garden

Carding

Aerate wool

Extract Lanolin

Wash raw waxy fleece

Low yield shearing for local flocks

Darning

Weaving

Length Winding Drawing Warping Set Loom

Package and export

New weaving shed to the north of the Highstreet, facing the road to Edinburgh.

Timber arch spans existing workshop

Woven timber lattice rests within existing workshop

Timber arch spans over shed

Machines inhabit new shed

Elevated workshop looks over steaming washing machines and sheared flock in distance

Fleece is washed and aerated, heated to extract lanolin before carding

Weaving Shed Plan Enlarged Frames

Stair observes shedbelow

Wool facades are printed for export

Wool structures form new rear facade integrating existing structures

Crane

Facade laid out horizontally for packing Crane

Crane

Glazed stair Hand loom

Hollow carcase

View of wool structure

Wool structures inhabit existing highstreet carcase

Weaving Shed Plan Setting for mas-produced export product Timber shed set behind HighStreet

Weaving Shed Plan set in arial view Setting for mas-produced export product Timber shed set behind HighStreet

Cashmere Studios

Tourists inhabit the existing HighStreet

Industrial Shed

Weaving Shed Interior Elevation/Section Facing South with HighStreet beyond Woven timber shell, Lanterns, Studios Original Scale 1:50@A1

Elevated wool clad studio with glass lantern over supported by steel roof. Large light focused over cabinet of textile samples and wool tapestry to left. Thin vertical glass panels gift light into the rear spaces of the existing Highstreet buildings.

Twisted timber structure rests over existing workshop

Existing room Elevated studio and tailors crucible form carriage of spaces ,in timber construction, along the rear of the existing street. Timber build supports studios over and appears like a furniture piece within the existing stone/ brick buildings.

Mechanical loom

Weaving Shed Sketch Woven wool tapestry gives depth and colour to the interior/marks the transition between occupation Original Scale 1:50@A1

Studio

Shed with elevated machines

Shell under construction

Timber shell

Weaving Shed Axo in Pencil Exportable Facade constructed vertically in shed Timber Shoring required for concrete over shell Original Scale 1:50@A1

Section Weaving Shed-Elevated Studio-Highstreet Original Scale 1:50@A1

Tourists view through the existing facade into an elevated studio, in order to observe the hither to obscured craft of cashmere garment weaving, as well as down into the semi-public workshop of a tailor, fitting and finishing products for sale in the HighStreet. The Distant view is of the industrial shed which is only revealed at its true extent to the practitioners within the building.

Cashmere Studios

Tourists inhabit the HighStreet

Industrial Shed

Weaving shed interior with wool elevation construction in progress

Cashmere Studios

Tourists inhabit the HighStreet

Industrial Shed

Structure of Hawick Drawings/Sketches Portfolio pages.150-190

Cashmere Studios

Tourists inhabit the HighStreet

Industrial Shed

Cashmere Studios

Section Sketches Weaving Shed-Elevated Studio Original Scale 1:50@A1

Section Sketches Transitions/Thresholds Original Scale 1:50@A1

Section Weaving Shed-Lanterns-HighStreet Original Scale 1:50@A1

Top light over wool tapestry inhabit the depth of timber construction either side of the weaving shed. The rich material makeup marks the transition between production scales and offers a view into the rich crafts of Hawicks practitioners

Section Weaving Shed-Lanterns-HighStreet Original Scale 1:50@A1

Tourist views studios from within existing structure

Existing stone/brick C.19 HighStreet

Industry

Section Weaving Shed-Elevated Studio-Highstreet Original Scale 1:50@A1

Private working environments

Arcade lit from above

Ribed timber box marks transition into working space

Lighting the studios from above, the arcade at the centre of the section offers a vertical separation between pubic and private space. Light and material change also define transition between the existing infrastructure and proposal.

Axo in Pencil Twisted timber arch spans 20m shed. New spaces inhabit structure. Stair bay marks vertical transition into private working spaces Original Scale 1:100@A1

a a

b c

Elevated Timber Studios in Section Original pen drawing Scale 1:200@A1

a) Cashmere and wool weaving studioâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Observed by tourists. Spaces punctuated by light filled timber towers and twisted timber roof structure to demarcate space. b) Tourists (access from the HighStreet) view into studios and access tailors working space framed within timber cabinetry c) Weaving shed with wool facade and top lit timber arch over

Wool construction inhabits carcase of the existing HighStreet

Existing HighStreet bank re-inhabited

Tailors workshop with large vertical framing window into tourists spaces beyond

Studios within timber cabinetry with observation windows above

Weaving shed with glazing into low workshop beyond. Wool facade over and topped with timber lattice

Tailors crucible View into weaving shed beyond

Existing workshop

Weaving shed with glazed bay marking vertical transition into private studios beyond section

External sheep pen

Long Section Original pen drawing Scale 1:200@A1

Wool construction inhabits carcase of the existing HighStreet

Existing HighStreet bank re-inhabited

Tailors workshop with large vertical framing window into tourists spaces beyond

Studios within timber cabinetry with observation windows above

Weaving shed with glazing into low workshop beyond. Wool facade over and topped with timber lattice

Tailors crucible View into weaving shed beyond

Existing workshop

Weaving shed with glazed bay marking vertical transition into private studios beyond section

External sheep pen

Long Section Original pen drawing Scale 1:200@A1

Long Section Looking up hill towards the highstreet beyond Original Scale 1:200@A1

Long Section Zoomed in Original Scale 1:200@A1

Interior Perspective Wool tapestry demarcates mas and micro-fabrication Original Scale @A1

Sketch Perspective Workspaces framed by cabinets Original Scale @A1

Perspective Top lit timber structure marks transition Original Scale @A1

Workers build with timber and wool HighStreet-Studios-Weaving Shed-Rear Facade Original Scale @A1

Technical Section Twisted timber skeleton with slip cast conc over Top lit with lantern over studios Original Scale 1:50

Interior Perspective Original Scale @A1

Perspective Section Pencil sketch from the HighStreet to the Weaving Shed behind View of Cashmere Studio and Tailors Shop from HighStreet elevation

a) Cashmere and hand loom weaving studioâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s elevated above Weaving shed. Pine lattice roof structure over. Observed from HighStreet shop. b) Tourists gaze across to weavers from the HighStreet. c) Weaving shed for the mas fabrication of wool fecades. d) Tailors shop bridges transition between public and studio spaces e) Glass lantern

Tourists support the towns continuity and insure permanence. Mas-production supports speculation and opportunity e

Perspective Section Pencil sketch from the HighStreet to the Weaving Shed behind View of Cashmere Studio and Tailors Shop from HighStreet elevation

Existing HighStreet bank re-inhabited

Wool construction inhabits carcase of the existing HighStreet

Tailors crucible looks up into weaving shed beyond Twisted timber structure with conc skin over

Interior elevation behind existing buildings, top lit marking transition into working environment

Interior elevation within weaving shed

Weaving shed interior with wool elevation construction in progress

Interior Perspective Original Scale @A1

Tie beam with lantern over

Studios in Plan Laminated timber tie beams over studios frame carriage of timber cabinets accessed by bays over workshops below and observing weaving shed to the north. Tourists can observe within the gallery to the south or from curated Highstreet views. Original Scale 1:100@A1

Tie beam with lantern over

Zoomed in Plan Original drawing Scale 1:100@A1

Public Space Inhabiting the existing HighStreet Original drawing Scale 1:100@A1

Void

Studios and Workshops Behind the existing HighStreet Original drawing Scale 1:100@A1

Industrial Fabrication New woolen mill/shed Original drawing Scale 1:100@A1

b b

d d

c f f

HighStreet-Studio-Workshops-Shed Original drawing Scale 1:100@A1

a) Cashmere studio b) Weaving shed, Douglas Fir shell c) Existing structure d)Semi-public Workshop e)Existing workshop f)Public access

Framed view into elevated studio

Views Through the Structure in Plan Original drawing Scale 1:100@A1

Carcase forms Existing shop light well for populated by studio behind wool facade framing glimpse into workshop beyond

View up into studios and down into tailors shop

View through existing shop into cashmere workshop elevated beyond

Existing HighStreet shop reduced by Wool construction with void behind

View through depth of structure

Existing HighStreet-Studios-Shed in Plan Original drawing Scale 1:100@A1

The scale of the existing town block is maintained, the proposal building upon existing town plots

Rear elevation, familiar for being at a similar scale to existing mills within the town

Remodelled facade acts a billboard for the town, promoting Hawicks manufacturing process

Production of a new product to carry the aspirations of the town

Projects devout focus on wool

Production of new Product

Iconography of brand Hawick exported through wool facades

Both mas-production and micro-fabrication are cheek by jowl

Project re-inhabits yet promotes a fresh perspective

Towns stone facade used to frame the manufacture of rich tactile products

Framing production acts as celebration of towns industrial mentality

Studios condense crafts within the town and celebrate the practitioners as the spine of Hawicks modern industry

Wool structures inhabit the towns existing facade providing depth and ornament to previously empty interiors

Project celebrates the production of woven products

Partial framing of the factory and studios allows the public spaces to frame narratives between production and final product

Export of wool facades

Imported cashmere and fleece

Export of cashmere and hand woven wool garments

Studios within existing workshop structure

Facade darning

Weavers

Tailors

Gallery

Fragments of Plan Original drawing Scale 1:100@A1

Existing retail

Hawicks provincial setting, industrial outlook, consistently remote disposition and seemingly unmitigated decline has led to a town really struggling to find its place, both as a local centre (a natural focus of the Boarder wool towns) and as a integral part of a international wool industry. The spirit of the place, although still very much in evidence; because of the reduction of manufacturing, the ruins of stone mills, shops and work spaces, has become suppressed, manipulated by it's own ruinous carcase, dulling the inventive outlook which the Borders have frequently used in-order to establish new technologyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and declare worldly aspirations. Hawicks current indifferent isolation from the Kingdom allows for an eccentric rediscovery of place and people, without current scrutiny, Hawick may find a way of inspiring its population beyond current potential and emerge with the momentum of pasts achievements, into a new context in which it is a worthy point of pilgrimage as well as retaining mercantile ambition beyond its boundary.

Tweed Basin Recaptured Proposition

A Mercantile Spirit Hawick the Perpetual Frontier

Conclusion Hawick has long been conflicted between two social narratives which may best be explored through its industrial character and the product it exports. A mechanised weaving town, Hawicks notoriety stems from the export of cashmere jumpers which are now sold on the premise of provincial craft in the remote wilds of Scotland. This narrative mimics the social isolation coursed by post war industrial decline and harks back to the late c17 when weaving workshops ran along plots behind the High Street. However the cashmere industry was born of Hawicks mercantile ambition in combination with it's pivotal role in the founding of an international wool trade, not its remote setting. Following this trade narrative instead sees Hawick with direct connections to this kingdoms capital cities as well as access to exotic fibres and manufacturing technologies, as noted by Daniel Defoe in his diary: Tour Through the Whole Island of Great Britain. The proposition is that Hawick must enable its narrative to take inspiration outside of a synthetic 'Scottish Highland' setting, instead asserting its mercantile/industrial engagement in order to escape a self critical provincialism. An industrial town may be best placed to reorder its townscape because it has the manufacturing ability to build afresh. The proposed structures allow a provincial town to build something of ambition from the embedded crafting outlook already practiced by the inhabitants. The spacial consequences of Hawicks singular displaced Scottish narrative has led to its weaving finding limited opportunity within the townscape as Hawicks physicality was sought to be hidden by images of wild moorland. However the consequence of exporting a uniquely Hawick product internationally and engaging in a global flow of wool, I propose will enable the tourist to rediscover a worthy destination and allow manufacturing to be exposed within the town once more. The proposal The existing hand weaving, tweed production and mechanised cashmere weaving is now framed within the existing high-street, exposing formally disguised industry within the core of the town. These studios, visible to the tourist, engage with the towns continued weaving tradition. The existing practitioners are the enabler for a new mill structure, which will be the 'set' for an industrious scene. New product may allow the population to speculate that Hawick can re-engage, promoting its mercantile rebirth on a global stage.

Tweed Basin Recaptured Proposition