Mobile Bay Magazine - February 2023

Mobile Bay

THE MARDI GRAS ISSUE

REVELRY RULES

CARNIVAL HISTORY, ART AND RECIPES

MARCHING WITH EXCELSIOR BAND

MARDI GRAS

PHOTO CONTEST AND MORE!

GRACE ON DAUPHIN +

INDULGENT COCKTAILS WITH A ROOFTOP VIEW

Mardi Gras Through the Lens

Professional and amateur photographers share their best shots of the Carnival season

"#The Nutria Rodeo

When conservationists and sportsmen come together to eradicate a destructive invasive species, obviously a party ensues

When beloved WKRG news anchor Mel Showers retired in May 2019, he cited his reporting on 1977’s Nutria Rodeo as the most memorable story of his career. To learn more about the history of the rodeo, turn to page 52.

FEBRUARY 2023

ON OUR COVER

The Mystics of Time dragon float breathes

the carnival air

#%

28 INSPIRATIONS

Five Mardi Gras fanatics share how they do Carnival

36 TASTINGS

The roof-deck at Grace on Dauphin St. is worth the price of admission

38 BAY TABLES

The Naman sisters get ready for the parades to roll at the Ezell House

59 REAL ESTATE

A buyer’s guide to the Bay

68 FEBRUARY CALENDAR

72 FINE ARTS

Historian Cart Blackwell dives into the paintings and decorative art of revelry

76 LITERATURE

Writer Audrey McDonald Atkins reminisces about the beloved MoonPie

78 ASK MCGEHEE

The Press-Register building got its start with cars

80 PARADE SCHEDULE

Don’t miss a single parade with this ultimate 2023 Carnival calendar

82 IN LIVING COLOR

Oakdale Ice and Fuel Company’s Mardi Gras Float

as a

The Ezell House was built in 1867 by grocer Martin Horst, whose firm advertised “French and domestic liquors, Western Lager Beer, Acme Pure Rye Whiskies, Tobacco and Cigars.” The home has seen its share of whiskey and cigars

wedding and event venue, and is the site of this month’s Bay Tables!

A FLOAT SKETCH BY JOHN AUGUSTUS WALKER / COURTESY THE HISTORY MUSEUM OF MOBILE

TOMAHAWK STEAK FROM GRACE / PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU

MARCELLE NAMAN AND GINA NAMAN MCPHILLIPS CELEBRATE MARDI GRAS AT THE EZELL HOUSE / PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU, WREATH BY CATHY DEAL

fire into

on Royal Street.

PHOTO BY MEGGAN HALLER/ KEYHOLE PHOTO

PUBLISHER T. J. Potts

ASSISTANT PUBLISHER Stephen Potts

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Maggie Lacey

EDITORIAL CONSULTANT Judy Culbreth

DIGITAL MANAGER Mattie Naman

PLANNING & DEVELOPMENT Amanda White

ART DIRECTOR Laurie Kilpatrick

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Amelia Rose Zimlich

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Marissa Deal

EDITORIAL INTERN Sydney Roland

ADVERTISING

SALES DIRECTOR Walker Sorrell

SR. ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Joseph A. Hyland

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Jennifer Ray

PRODUCTION Melissa Heath

ADMINISTRATION

CIRCULATION Anita Miller

ACCOUNTING Keith Crabtree

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Audrey McDonald Atkins, Cartledge Blackwell, Emily Blejwas, Keylee Fillingim, Scotty Kirkland, Tom McGehee

CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS

Elizabeth Gelineau, Meggan Haller/Keyhole Photo

ADVERTISING AND EDITORIAL OFFICES 166 Government Street, Suite 208 Mobile, AL 36602-3108 251-473-6269

PUBLISHED BY PMT PUBLISHING INC .

PRESIDENT & CEO T. J. Potts

PARTNER & DIRECTOR omas E. McMillan

Subscription inquiries and all remittances should be sent to:

Mobile Bay c/o Cambey & West P.O. Box 43

Congers, NY 10920-9922 1-833-454-5060

MOVING?

Please note: U.S. Postal Service will not forward magazines mailed through their bulk mail unit. Please send old label along with your new address four to six weeks prior to moving.

Mobile Bay is published 12 times per year for the Gulf Coast area. All contents © 2022 by PMT Publishing Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of the contents without written permission is prohibited. Comments written in this magazine are those of the authors and do not necessarily re ect the opinion of the ownership or the management of Mobile Bay. is magazine accepts no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, photography or artwork. All submissions will be edited for length, clarity and style.

Oooo, that smell!

Iwill always remember the smell of Mardi Gras throws. As a kid, we would go with my dad to his parade float loading, where MoonPies and serpentine were removed from their boxes and combined in oversized bags marked with the masker’s name— and usually float number and placement (driver side, up top). A lot of work goes into purchasing and delivering all your throws, and you don’t want your neighbor throwing $100 worth of your beads, after all.

We would climb over mountains of empty boxes, swipe handfuls of doubloons from unsuspecting dads and gorge ourselves on MoonPies while no one was looking. And all the while, the place would be filled with a smell that only occurs at Mardi Gras. It is best described, I think, as a mix of dusty cardboard, sweet bubble gum and cheap plastic. Mmmm, mmmm. And to this day, it puts me in a Carnival mood just to get a whiff.

Buying throws is half the fun of riding in a parade, but I am the type of gal who also thinks packing for a trip is half the fun, so maybe I’m alone here. I’ve never understood why someone would want to pay a single fee and have all their throws purchased, packed and delivered to the float. Concierge trinkets? No, thank you. I want to wander the aisles of Toomey’s, eyeing every rack of jumbo beads and imagining who I might throw them to. I want to pick out something special for my three kids, and to bag my loot myself — always beads on the bottom (heavy), MoonPies on top (no one wants a smooshed MoonPie). And when I do that, my house starts to have that musty, sweet, plastic smell I remember from when I was a kid that can only mean Mardi Gras is here.

In case you aren’t yet in the spirit, we’ve gathered enough Carnival content to turn your blood purple and gold. History, food, music and art all mingle with tips and tricks from lifelong parade-goers and maskers. It’s all here, ready to help make this season especially jubilant.

Let’s make Joe Cain proud.

Maggie Lacey EXECUTIVE EDITOR

maggie@pmtpublishing.com

TAKE A SEAT WE ARE HAVING FUN DESIGNING THE NEW MB OFFICES, RIGHT DOWN TO THE CHAIRS AND DESK LAMPS. WE HOPE YOU WILL COME VISIT! BERTOIA MOLDED SHELL SIDE CHAIR FROM KNOLL.COM

 The next Inspiration Home is all decked out and ready for tours! The architect, builder, designers and suppliers have crafted an exceptional home in the heart of Spring Hill and we can’t wait for you to see it! Tickets are on sale now, and tours will run March 2-26, 2023.

PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU

THROW BACK LOVED PORING OVER THIS LONG-FORGOTTEN, HISTORIC CARNIVAL PAMPHLET PUT OUT BY THE MOBILE & OHIO RAILROAD IN 1911, RECENTLY FOUND IN AN ESTATE IN PENSACOLA. I SAW LOTS OF FAMILIAR MOBILE NAMES, BUT THE LOCAL ADS WERE THE MOST ENTERTAINING!

I GREW UP SEEING NUTRIA SWIMMING IN THE DITCHES ON DAUPHIN ISLAND, AND LOVED GETTING THE FULL HISTORY ON THE INVASIVE RODENTS IN THIS ISSUE. PAGE 52

CELEBRATE OUR MARDI GRAS PRINT DEADLINE WITH A BIG SLICE OF KING CAKE! LET THE RECORD SHOW WRITER MARISSA DEAL GOT THE BABY THIS YEAR.

Tell us how you really feel ...

BLOSSOMS OF JOY

On December’s article, “Happy Flowers,” featuring Debbie Reynolds, who repurposes wedding flowers for nursing homes and assisted-living facilities

“What a wonderful idea. After my daughters’ weddings, I was struggling to try to find something to do with the beautiful flowers other than the ones we kept. It’s great to see them being used in such a loving way.”

- Karie M. Bailey

“This is a fantastic idea. I made 75 small arrangements from my daughter’s wedding flowers for a hospice to take to their home patients. This is such a better use than the dumpster.”

- Kim Pennington

“This is a generous, sweet and caring thing to do.”

- Wendy Mcarthur

“What an amazing idea and thing she is doing for others.”

- Meagan Mangold

“I’m so grateful she does this and by doing so, brightens so many lives that truly need it.”

- Sandra Edmonds Whiting

“I love her sweet spirit. She is a blessing.”

- Sherry Price

“Debbie is beautiful – inside and out. We would have been lost without her amazing talent at my granddaughter’s wedding.”

- Tammy Smitherman Garrett

SWEET INSPIRATION

On December’s Bay Tables, “Sweet Traditions,” where Kathleen Galloway Collins shares her holiday baking tips and family traditions

“I want to try the peppermint cake.”

- Millie McAleer Hutton

“Oh my goodness, he [Kathleen’s son Frederick] is absolutely precious!”

- Mary Rose DeMouy

“They are such a sweet family.”

- Jillian Lami

THE NOBLE BAY LEAF

“My bay laurel is one of my most prized possessions. I enjoy having fresh bay leaves year round.”

- Linda Lollar-Goldstein

THE 2012 CHRISTMAS TORNADO

On December’s article, “Ten Years Later,” recalling the community banding togehter to rebuild after a torando tore through Midtown

“A smaller tornado also hit Midtown five days earlier on December 20th. We had two tornadoes that week.”

- Dave Williams

“It’s honestly still hard for us who were in the path to believe. I’ll never ever forget hearing the projected trajectory on the news: ‘Midtown... Loop... Murphy... Silverwood...’ Thinking about it gives me chills to this day.”

- Courtney Matthews

 Want to share your thoughts and reactions to this issue? Email maggie@pmtpublishing.com.

DEBBIE REYNOLDS AND “HAPPY FLOWERS” SHE ARRANGES TO TAKE TO A NURSING HOME / PHOTOS BY CHAD RILEY

More Ways to Connect

text by MATTIE NAMAN

MARDI GRAS 2023

Laissez les bons temps rouler! We have all you need to let the good times roll — delicious recipes, a complete parade schedule, Mardi Gras histories, stories on the celebrations of the past and much more.

SHARE THE LOVE

Share your proposal story, and we’ll feature your engagement on mobilebaymag.com.

MARK YOUR CALENDARS

The holidays may be over, but here on the Bay, the party is just getting started. Go online for our Top Things to Do in February, including football games, street parties, cookoffs, Valentine’s dinners, parades and plenty of Mardi Gras-inspired activities for the whole family. Get out and enjoy February!

GET INSPIRED

This year’s Mobile Bay Magazine Inspiration Home will be open for tours starting March 2nd. Follow us along on social media as we introduce you to the design team, give behind the scenes footage and release teasers of the home. Visit our website to purchase your tickets today!

COCKTAIL OF THE MONTH

MoonPie Martini: The start of Carnival calls for elaborate celebrations and decadent libations. Enjoy all the chocolatey goodness of a MoonPie in one cool cocktail.

EXCELSIOR BAND ON MARDI GRAS DAY // TAD DENSON

INSPIRATION HOME 2021 // SUMMER ENNIS ANSLEY MOONPIE MARTINI // JENNIE TEWELL

MARKETPLACE

Shop the best Mardi Gras gifts on Mobile Bay’s online store! Visit mobilebayshop.com (or scan the QR code at right) to explore our editors’ curated collection of carnival-inspired apparel, jewelry, books, gifts and more.

JOIN THE EMAIL LIST

Finally, an email you’ll actually love to read. Get the latest in food, art, homes, local history and events delivered right to your inbox. You’ll also be the first to know about new contests and exclusive deals for our online store. Sign up today!

We’re not just in print. Find us online, on social media and in your inbox.

A Government Street Story

The newly-renovated Downtown headquarters for the publishers of Mobile Bay Magazine is an interesting walk through Mobile history.

text by SCOTTY E. KIRKLAND • illustration by ANNA THORNTON

The story of what is now 166 Government Street is a Mobile story. The site is the new home of PMT Publishing, the regional media company, which counts among its titles Mobile Bay and Business Alabama magazines. In celebration of this relocation to Downtown, we delve into a few vignettes of prior occupants of this consequential piece of Port City real estate.

A New Baker in Town

Industrious Scotsman Gavin Yuille, born in 1786, immigrated with his large family to the New World in 1829, settling first in North Carolina. Yuille was a baker of some repute in Edinburgh in his earlier years, although it took some time for him to return to the profession upon coming to America.

The prospect of resurrecting his old trade may have propelled his relocation to the Port City. Yuille secured a loan from the Mo-

bile branch of the Bank of Alabama for $1,512.50 and purchased a bakery at the corner of Dauphin and Jackson streets from an aged French baker named Alaire. Yuille named his concern the Mobile Steam Bakery, perhaps a nod to the emerging baking technique of adding steam to brick ovens to produce superior bread.

Yuille’s new enterprise catered to the needs of two diverse consumer groups. For the proverbial upper crust of society — those residents of Mobile living in well-appointed manors, their pockets full of cotton profits — the bakery offered a variety of cakes, rolls and long French bread baked twice daily.

At the same time, Yuille kept up a lively business supplying ships and steamboats with considerably tougher stuff designed for a longer shelf life, like pilot bread, a type of hardtack. Simply made from flour, water and salt, pounds of pilot bread could be packed in a barrel and stored in a ship’s hold for months, if needed. Yuille of-

fered 20 pounds of the stuff, delivered to the dock “with correctness and dispatch,” for one dollar.

Tragedy came in October 1839, when a fire swept through Mobile, burning nearly one-third of the wooden buildings. As the flames crept closer, the baker attempted to save his flour by rolling the barrels into the street. His efforts failed; Yuille lost everything. He soon relocated to the address in question, which was a one-story wooden structure at the time. He then purchased the building in 1848, just a year before his death. His sons, and later grandsons, continued the business. Sometime between 1908 and 1916, the third generation of Yuille bakers constructed a new, two-story brick building, the bones of which are the new headquarters for this publication.

A surviving ledger of Yuille’s expenses reveals the ordered days of the Scottish-born baker: payments for repairs to an oven, $25.50; a yearlong advertisement in the local paper, $8; payments for gas-powered lights, $16.30; $40 for firewood.

Interspersed among these ledger entries are payments Yuille made for the hiring of enslaved laborers, payments made not to the individuals themselves, but to the Mobilians who held them as property. The “hiring out” of enslaved laborers was a common practice in Southern cities. On average, Yuille paid $15 a month for the hire of an enslaved person, roughly 50 cents a day. At the same time, records indicate his white employees were paid about $2 for their average daily wage.

Yuille purchased a number of enslaved laborers outright as well, including a young man named Sam. In 1843, after several years of making monthly payments for Sam’s labor, Yuille paid his owner a final $640.

In his waning years, Yuille began relying increasingly upon his two sons, Robert Lang and John C., to handle the operations of the bakery. From his Baldwin County estate, Gavin Yuille offered guidance on personnel and the collection of debts. He died on September 17, 1849, shortly before his 63rd birthday. The brothers Yuille made several enhancements to the business,

including the purchase of a wheel-powered cracker cutting device. They also continued the practice of employing enslaved laborers. In 1853, they paid $1,100 for an enslaved man named Adam. The receipt noted that he was a “baker by trade.”

The Union blockade of Mobile during the Civil War brought with it rising costs and supply shortages. The price of flour, any baker’s most essential ingredient, became prohibitively high. In 1844, Gavin Yuille paid as little as $30 a barrel for fine, white flour. By 1863, his sons might be expected to pay nearly $400 for a barrel filled with a product of lesser quality, if they could find any at all.

The economic despair of blockaded Mobilians brought about a riot in September 1863. Under banners reading “Bread or Peace,” dozens of hungry citizens armed with brickbats, brooms and axes swept through downtown Mobile, breaking storefront windows and taking whatever foodstuffs they could find. If there were any scant loafs left upon the racks and shelves of Yuille’s bakery on that hot September day, they were all likely taken as well.

At war’s end, Federal troops briefly commandeered the bakery and pressed its ovens into service for several months. Though the facility was no worse for the wear, the brief occupation galled the Yuilles, both of whom were supporters of the Confederacy. They attempted in vain for two decades to receive remuneration from the government.

As Robert and John grew older, they turned to the third generation to keep the business going. In 1892, Robert’s eldest son and namesake took his father’s place in the company. Born in 1863, Robert Lewis Yuille was a loyal son, but also a successful commercial merchant with interests beyond the business of bread. After his uncle John died in 1905, Robert Yuille brought on the bakery’s first external partner, a German immigrant named Louis Schettler, who labored against hard odds to keep the bakery solvent.

All too often, multigenerational family businesses merely fade into history, victims of divided attentions, probate squabbles or

the cruel vagaries of bad luck. The end of Yuille’s Bakery comes with a touch of poetic symmetry, however.

In 1834, Scotsman Gavin Yuille purchased his Mobile bakery from a French immigrant. Nine decades later, a Greek immigrant named Jason Malbis purchased the Yuille bakery for an undisclosed sum.

A successful restauranteur, Malbis was in the midst of an expansion of his commercial interests. After one year of operations at the site of the old Mobile Steam Bakery, Malbis closed the location and moved the remaining equipment to his larger facility a few blocks westward.

From Bread to Gizmos & Gadgets

For generations, the Government Street storefront housed a family-owned business in the steady, mostly unchanging business of bread. The new occupant was altogether different, among the first Alabama locations of Auto-Lec Stores, Inc., a department store specializing in automotive supplies, radios and other electronic devices. Auto-Lec incorporated in New Orleans in May 1928 with initial locations in several Louisiana locales. The expansion into Mobile came later that summer. “We have come here to be a part of Mobile and Mobile progress,” manager Edwin Eicholz said. “The AutoLec Stores are sold on Mobile and we are going to do everything within our power to sell Mobile on us.”

Early advertisements for the store proclaimed “Real Radio Values.” In the late 1920s, consumer radio sales were on the rise. Auto-Lec offered in-home demonstrations for several higher-end models, like the Freed Eisemann “Great Eighty,” a tabletop radio with eight tubes. The price in 1928 was $152.75 (roughly $2,500 today). A more economical five-tube model sold for under $60.

Beyond radios, automotive equipment was the store’s main offering. A full-page advertisement in December 1928 offered a glimpse of the store’s inventory: tires, “the best that can be built,” ranging in price from $6.75 to $15, all with a 16,000-mile guarantee; replacement rearview mirrors

for 29 cents; an electric toaster on sale for $1.69; toy trains, planes and boats ranging in price from 25 cents to $3. For manager Edwin Eicholz, Christmas 1928 was a turning point. Electronics were “the modern gift” for Mobilians entering the holiday season. “The day of giving useless knickknacks has passed,” he boasted, incorrectly. Mobilians eager for new gadgets the following Christmas season would have likely been more circumspect. With the onset of the Great Depression, advertisements for the Auto-Lec Store largely fell from the pages of Mobile newspapers. Still, the company weathered the economic storm and survived while others did not. In May 1933, executives announced a relocation to larger quarters a few blocks westward along Government Street to the site formerly occupied by Dixie Paper Company.

Greer’s on Government

A familiar family concern then moved into 162 Government Street and occupied it for some 16 years. (The street number changed to 166 in the mid-1940s.) Two decades earlier, Autrey Greer opened his first grocery store at the corner of St. Michael and Water streets. Greer’s was a “cash and carry” business, a model which defied many conven-

tions of the grocery trade, principally the extension of credit and the practice of home delivery (which the Yuille Bakery also abandoned in its later years at the site.) Greer felt this was not a model for a modern, increasingly itinerant consumer. He foresaw a rapidly approaching time when customers would make a quick stop at the corner grocery store on their drive home from work and peruse for themselves wide self-service aisles. Removing the oftentimes precarious credit system and expensive home delivery helped to keep Greer’s prices low, so low that the stores were among the first to list them in local newspapers. One full-page ad from 1936 — the year the store at 166 Government Street opened — listed tomatoes at 10 cents per pound, shoulder pork roast for 20 cents, and Greer’s Hobby Coffee, “a smile in every sip,” for 23 cents a bag. The Government Street location was among the company’s earliest branch stores. At its peak, there were 50 Greer’s Groceries throughout Alabama, Mississippi and Florida. So ubiquitous was Greer’s in Mobile that most ads did not bother listing addresses for the various locations. Emblazoned atop these ads was typically some iteration of the “Greer’s Got It!” slogan. But occasionally, a more apt turn

of phrase appeared below the company’s logo: “Economy Tells the Story.” For a city emerging from the Great Depression, still a few years away from the human storm of wartime mobilization, the economy, indeed, told much of the story of both a small grocery store along Government Street and the city proper. In lean times, Greer’s sponsored food drives and offered free paper covers for the well-worn textbooks of area schoolchildren. Greer’s was among more than a dozen Mobile businesses to support an annual free cooking school for Mobilians at the Old Shell Road auditorium. And they sponsored a short radio program three times a week over the WALA airwaves. Perhaps some of the loyal listeners tuned into the program on a radio purchased at the Auto-Lec Store that once occupied the same building.

The nearby construction of the Bankhead Tunnel likely caused the occasional disturbance of business. One wonders if the tremors from the heavy equipment rattled the shelves. Were eggs broken in the name of progress? During the war, Mobilians old and new no doubt filtered through the aisles, enticed by low prices and the convenience of location. Filling the stomachs of shipyard workers and soldiers was war work, too. Food wins wars, after all. And there was Greer’s.

Que the Palace

A poolhall occupied the site for several years in the 1950s. Palace Billiards, nestled between the large YMCA building and an Arthur Murray Dance Studio, was appropriately placed. In 1953, Palace was operated by Ed Fernandy, who lived in rural Belle Fontaine. He faced quite a bit of competition. Sportsman’s Billiard Parlor was located on the opposite side of Government Street and there were 10 other establishments Downtown.

Understandably, fewer newspaper advertisements exist for Palace Billiards than for Yuille’s, Auto-Lec or Greer’s. Poolhalls are a different sort of business. A small 1955 ad in the Mobile Journal, offered simple “best wishes to labor.” Located so close

to the waterfront, dockworkers perhaps comprised a large portion of Palace’s clientele. By 1956, Charles Hindman was manager of the poolhall. A native of Georgia, he had been an ironworker in the late 1940s. He lived at Macy Court with his wife Marjorie, who worked as a secretary.

The Moose Move In (Briefly)

Once Palace Billiards was shuttered in the late 1950s, the site entered a long period of vacancy. The 1959 Mobile City Directory indicates that 166 Government Street was briefly occupied by National Wholesale Distributors, a general mercantile company. For a few years in the mid-1960s, the site was used by local members of the Loyal Order of Moose.

The fraternal service organization, founded in Mooseheart, Illinois, in 1888, first came to the Port City in 1910. The inaugural class of the Mobile Lodge included 81 members. By year’s end, the number had grown to 300. Membership in the group carried certain benefits, including access to medical attention and weekly sick benefits of $7 (roughly $200 today). The editor of the Mobile Daily Item pronounced the order’s initiation ceremony as “the best thing that has ever been seen in this city,” which was quite the statement, indeed. Mobile notables among the early ranks of the Loyal Order of Moose included Bart Chamberlain and Mayor Pat J. Lyons.

In 1913, the Mobile Lodge erected a $16,000 clubhouse at 203 Government Street. After four decades in Downtown, the Lodge sold its property in 1952 and relocated to a new facility on Highway 90 outside the city. Certain members objected to the prospect of traveling to such a far-flung spot for their meetings and formed their own lodge. In 1965, these travel-averse Moose brothers found their way to 166 Government Street, where they remained through 1966. Although the breakaway lodge has since disbanded, the Order of Moose remains active in Mobile.

Blood Donors and Legal Beagles

The next long-term tenant was a blood and plasma donation center, which occupied the site for more than a decade beginning in 1968. Advertisements offered up to $20 cash per week for blood donations. A dance studio occupied the second floor. Community Blood and Plasma likely altered the first-floor interior of the building in more profound ways than any other occupant, constructing therein a series of small rooms. Dropped acoustic tile ceilings, vinyl floors and cheap wood paneling underscored the fact that the building was a place of work, nothing too fancy. The latter occupants of 166 Government — Horn James in the 1980s and Perry & Perry in the 1990s, lawyers all — undid some of those sins of construction committed to accommodate the building to its tenants.

So much of the built environment around 166 Government has changed over the years. Early occupants could look upon the La Clede Hotel across South Conception or the striking Rudolph Benz-designed courthouse opposite Government Street. Architectural fidelity in downtown Mobile is regrettably the exception, not the rule.

The many businesses and people who occupied the property witnessed a great deal of the history that made modern Mobile:

GUMBO | OBSERVATIONS

new industries and residents brought to the Port City by wartime mobilization, the rises and falls of economic fortunes, heady days and lean years for Downtown, innumerable construction projects, as well as Mardi Gras parades and storms of the meteorological and political varieties. It seems altogether fitting, then, that PMT Publishing, which tells so many important stories about Mobile’s present and past, should come to occupy this consequential location. At the place where a Scottish-born baker and his descendants plied their trade, where Mobilians purchased radios connecting them to a broader world and where grocers, doctors and lawyers once hung their shingles, PMT will write a new chapter in this Government Street story. MB

Writer and historian Scotty E. Kirkland is the author of a forthcoming book entitled, “Jordan’s Stormy Banks: Politics and Race in Twentieth-Century Mobile” and is a regular contributor to Business Alabama Magazine.

Opposite Government Street looking northeast from Conception Street towards Greer’s and the LaClede. ERIK OVERBEY COLLECTION, THE DOY LEALE MCCALL RARE BOOK AND MANUSCRIPT LIBRARY, UNIVERSITY OF SOUTH ALABAMA.

Below The wood-frame Yuille Bakery, circa 1900, sits in the shadow of the striking YMCA building, lost to fire in 2001.

Sweet as Candy

text by MARISSA DEAL

!"##$%!&''#!!

FEBRUARY 9, 1971

LEROY SATCHEL PAGE

BECAME THE FIRST NEGRO LEAGUE VETERAN TO BE NOMINATED FOR THE BASEBALL HALL OF FAME

TASTES LIKE CHICKEN

Nutria meat is lean, low in carbs, and has less fat and cholesterol than turkey or chicken. Those in the know say it tastes like dark meat turkey.

A quarter pound of nutria meat has 22.1g protein, 0 carbs, 1.5g fat, and 40.1 cholesterol.

CANDY CRUSH

Alabama is the only state where candy necklaces are the most popular Valentine’s candy. Runners-up are conversation hearts and chocolate roses.

“If January is the month of change, February is the month of lasting change. January is for dreamers... February is for doers.”

A little friendly competition...

In 2018, the Alabama Tourism Department placed 10 billboards around New Orleans reminding everyone where the original Mardi Gras lives!

12,811

NUMBER OF JOBS IN 2018 IN BALDWIN AND MOBILE COUNTIES DIRECTLY RELATED TO MARDI GRAS.

25¢

THE TOLL CHARGED IN FEBRUARY 20, 1941, THE YEAR THE JOHN HOLLIS BANKHEAD TUNNEL OPENED.

— Marc Parent

ONE NEW ORLEAN'S RETORT:

"Dear Alabama, you stick to college football, and we'll handle Mardi Gras. Love, New Orleans"

Bite of the Bay

MB’s contributing food fanatics share their go-to local dishes.

FAJITA QUESADILLA AT LA COCINA

MEXICAN RESTAURANT

“After over 17 years, La Cocina is still my favorite ‘hole in the wall,’ serving the most authentic Mexican cuisine in Mobile. The fajita-style quesadilla never disappoints. A fried tortilla is packed with grilled green peppers, mushrooms, onions, lean steak, cheese and a fresh “salad” to top it off. The outstanding service always guarantees a great evening out. En caso de que te lo estés preguntando, también tienen las mejores margaritas heladas de la ciudad.”

LA COCINA MEXICAN RESTAURANT

830 WEST I-65 SERVICE ROAD SOUTH • 378-5837 LACOCINAMOBILE.COM

THE TRAIN WRECK AT GATHER RESTAURANT

“One of my favorite restaurants is just a short drive off the Eastern Shore. Gather, located in downtown Atmore, is home to the coolest-named food item I’ve come across down here: the Train Wreck. Make sure to bring your appetite, because the plate includes a filet, fried green tomato and bacon sitting on a bed of pimento cheese grits. It’s topped off with a fried egg and drizzled conecuh crab sauce. This plate is truly a one of a kind and well worth the drive.”

GATHER RESTAURANT • 111 W NASHVILLE AVE., ATMORE

303-8080 • GATHERRESTAURANTATMORE.COM

STEAK AT VIA EMILIA

“One hardly thinks of enjoying a steak at an Italian restaurant. However, at Via Emilia, you can get the best steaks in town. Their Italian fare is delicious and hugely sought after, and their steaks are filled with flavor and perfectly seasoned. Unlike many steaks from commercial kitchens, they don’t taste like they’ve been on ice for half a century. All their offerings are extra good, but their steaks are outstanding.”

VIA EMILIA • 5901 OLD SHELL ROAD • 342-3677

VIAEMILIAMOBILE.COM

GULF CRAB CAKES AT THE WASH HOUSE

“The best meal I’ve had recently is the gulf crab cakes at the Wash House in Point Clear. They are smaller in size, crispy golden brown on the outside, chocked full of crabmeat on the inside and served with a delicious, spicy aioli. The crab cakes are listed on the menu as an appetizer, but I had them as my entree, along with my favorite Wash House salad. The fried goat cheese and house dressing make this no ordinary house salad. And, if you can snag a spot at the bar, all the better.”

THE WASH HOUSE • 17111 SCENIC HIGHWAY 98, FAIRHOPE 928-4838 • WASHHOUSERESTAURANT.COM

 What dishes made you drool and left you hungry for more? Share them on our Facebook page!

ALLISON STREETER, Principal, Council Traditional School, Mobile County School System

THOMAS PILCHER, Partner, Wilkins, Bankester, Biles & Wynne, P.A.

NORMAN MCCRUMMEN, Full-time grandfather / Chairman of the board, NEST of Mobile

BARRY TRICE, Attorney

GULF CRAB CAKES AT THE WASH HOUSE

THE MARDI GRAS MASTER OF MAKE-BELIEVE

text by EMILY BLEJWAS

“SUDDENLY A DAZZLING GLOW

OF LIGHT fills some street leading to a main thoroughfare; and strains of distant music rise upon the night. Silence falls upon the mighty throng; every neck is craned — every eye is strained toward the coming Mystics.”

Writing in “Creole Carnivals” in 1890, Mobile Register editor Thomas Cooper De Leon goes on to describe the crowd’s ephemeral encounter with Carnival floats. “In the shimmer of a thousand lights,” the floats appear “gigantic and glittering with all that the art of the builder, the painter and the decorator can supply.” Then, “leaving only beautiful memories in its wake, it passes through the night.”

A century later, in 1994, George Widney writes in the Press-Register that Mardi Gras “rests upon the shoulders of artists and artisans who create the themes, floats, costumes, scenery and related folderol of Mardi Gras parades and balls.” He calls these artists “traffickers in

John Augustus Walker changed the world of float design and made Mobile’s Mardi Gras a sight to behold.

John Augustus Walker’s sketch for a colorful float made of rotating tops. PHOTO COURTESY HISTORY MUSEUM OF MOBILE

dreams and masters of make-believe” who craft “the never-never land of Mardi Gras in Mobile.”

Indeed, a beautiful float has the power to astound, to render us quiet for a pause, amid the clamor for beads and MoonPies. So to better understand the quiet magic of Carnival floats, I dove into the life and work of one of Mobile’s most renowned float designers: John Augustus Walker, best known for the colossal murals he created for the Works Progress Administration (WPA), some of which adorn the lobby of the History Museum of Mobile.

Born in 1901 and raised in Mobile, Walker worked 12-hour shifts for the Mobile & Ohio Railroad by age 19. He was transferred to St. Louis in 1921, where he attended the St. Louis School of Fine Arts in his off-hours for the next six years. Walker found inspiration in the styles of his professors, and also in the murals he observed in the Missouri State Capitol, painted by Frank William Brangwyn.

But it was Walker’s travels to Cuba and Key West, where he worked construction, that solidified his style, noted for a vibrant use of color and sense of movement. According to WPA interviewer Frances V. Beverly, Walker credited “the distinctiveness of color in the Cuban landscape” with developing his “color sense” and “treatment of lights and shadows,” adding that “in Key West, he found so much of intriguing interest in the lives of the fisher folk and never tired of watching them at their work, with the silvery gray nets, on

the deep golden green water, and the blue sky and the tossing whitecapped waves against the hawser. It touched his artist’s soul.”

In 1929, Walker returned to Mobile to pursue art full-time, sharing a studio on Royal Street with artist Edmond de Celle. Walker, a decade younger than de Celle, studied under him briefly, and de Celle called him “a natural-born artist.” The two became friends and would be regarded as the most significant float designers of the era in Mobile.

To support himself, Walker did commercial work: advertisements, billboards, portraits, and Christmas cards for clients that included Smith Bakery, Sam Joy Laundry, Bellingrath Gardens and the Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo. He also taught commercial art at Barton Academy. In 1935, the WPA commissioned Walker to create a series of murals for Mobile’s Old City Hall. The tenth and final panel of the series is called “Fraternity,” “Wherein the carnival spirit of the people is illustrated and Mobile is commemorated as the Mother of Mystics.”

Walker served as the float designer for the Infant Mystics from 1935 until 1967. In some ways, float design reflected mural design: operating from a central theme and organized to tell a complete story. As De Leon explained in 1890, each group of floats is “a rounded whole in itself. It is a perfected drama or a book; and each succeeding picture is a complete scene or chapter.”

Further, De Leon writes, floats exist at the center of what makes Carnivals on the Gulf Coast “artistic forms of almost magical beauty” rooted in a Creole “love for beauty, brilliance and display” and “born out of the wedding of Taste and Poetry.” Floats are thus intended to articulate art, and according to De Leon, IM floats in particular “made Mobile’s streets glitter like the gardens of the Gods, with subjects peculiarly their own; ever treated with the generous use of every aid that money could command at the behest of taste.” Walker’s IM floats half a century later were no exception.

Top John Augustus Walker drawing floats in 1939.

S. BLAKE MCNEELY COLLECTION, THE DOY LEALE MCCALL RARE BOOK AND MANUSCRIPT LIBRARY, UNIVERSITY OF SOUTH ALABAMA Left The mural “Fraternity” was painted on the walls of what is now the History Museum of Mobile, along with ten other murals funded by the WPA.

IMAGE COURTESY LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

In 1935, the first year Walker designed them, the IM floats took the theme of Treasure Island, and “first presented to Mobile the full-round effects of John Augustus Walker’s designs” according to Caldwell Delaney and Cornelia McDuffie Turner in “Infant Mystics: The First Hundred Years.” In 1936, Walker designed both the floats and maskers’ costumes in a Tarzan theme. “The parade was fresh and vigorous in presentation,” state Delaney and Turner. “The second float, “Graveyard of the Elephants,” gave a hint of the artistic heights to which Walker was to bring the medium in the future.”

Indeed, Walker’s star continued to rise. The Press-Register described the IM’s 1937 theme, Hunting of the Snark, as “endowed with dazzling color, movement and a moral.” Builders employed “rich and colorful materials never before used in a Mardi Gras float and [a] total of 700 electric lights.” The lighting, “joined with a surrealistic interpretation, brought float design to its most satisfactory state of theatrical illusion,” write Delaney and Turner.

In 1939, Walker created a “tour de force” with a Festival of Tulips theme and revamped the cat of the IM emblem float: “The old humping and twitching alley tom was gone, and a monumental crouching feline of silver leaf took his place.” In 1940, Walker’s Vanity theme featured animal, bird, and reptile masks made in Paris and

two gigantic jack-in-the-boxes with heads that popped out and back. In 1941, the last parade before their suspension during World War II, Walker’s Over the Rainbow theme showcased eight floats in eight colors; a giant bluebird was a crowd favorite.

Walker resumed designing IM floats in 1946 and continued until his death in 1967. His designs, done in pastels in his signature vivid colors, provide a glimpse into how he communicated his artistic visions to the float builders, who made them a reality. In penciled block letters, Walker indicates the light colors for each part of the float, specifying “red lights to flash” in the eyes of a mouse, “amber lights” in a golden coach, “blue and white lights interspersed” in

IM FLOATS IN PARTICULAR “MADE MOBILE’S STREETS GLITTER LIKE THE GARDENS OF THE GODS, WITH SUBJECTS PECULIARLY THEIR OWN; EVER TREATED WITH THE GENEROUS USE OF EVERY AID THAT MONEY COULD COMMAND AT THE BEHEST OF TASTE.”

– Thomas Cooper De Leon, Editor of the Mobile Register, from “Creole Carnivals” in 1890

Left John Augustus Walker surveys the Infant Mystic’s Duck Float in progress in 1939.

Bottom “On the Zuider Zee” float on the streets of Mobile, 1939.

S. BLAKE MCNEELY COLLECTION, THE DOY LEALE MCCALL RARE BOOK AND MANUSCRIPT LIBRARY, UNIVERSITY OF SOUTH ALABAMA

ocean waves, and a “green funnel light” inside a witch.

And his instructions extend beyond color. On the New Year Toast float, Walker writes: “bells to swing” and “white balloons rise from glass.” There are indications for “windows cellophane,” a “duckling to move up and down,” and on the St. Patrick’s Day float, “harps to rock fore and aft.” On the Christmas float, he writes, “tree in the round to be adorned as near real tree as possible” and for the North Pole: “clear varnish seals for wet effect.”

These directives reflect both Walker’s desire to make the floats as real as possible and his understanding of the glitz and glamour needed to make the floats truly shine. “The success of this wagon depends on amount of silver leaf used,” reads one note. Another: “Gold leaf required to fully express this wagon.” George Washington’s Birthday calls for “as much gold leaf as possible on eagle insignia,” Halloween for “silver flitters” on the moon, and a duck’s black back is to be “scumbled with silver.”

Walker’s designs also indicate the positioning and descriptions of the riders. One design requires a “raised deck for maskers” and another a “sunken deck to accommodate four men.” On There Were

“MOSTLY HE PAINTED FOR THE ENJOYMENT OF CREATING THE PAINTINGS AND SOMETIMES HE SOLD THEM AND MOST OF THE TIME HE DIDN’T.”

– John Walker, son of John Augustus Walker, on his father’s art

John Augustus Walker brought 2-D drawings to life, like “The Terrible Dogfish” float from the Infant Mystics parade, seen here as a sketch and a carnival reality.

COURTESY THE HISTORY MUSEUM OF MOBILE

Dwarfs in the Catskills, Walker writes, “Cast shortest men on this wagon.”

On several designs, Walker wrote plainly, “See me.” And he did collaborate with the builders. Webb Odom, a legendary Mobile float builder, most often carried out Walker’s visions. The two men were good friends, according to Walker’s son, John, who recalls visiting the float barn with his father many times, often on weekends, to check the progress. “There was some back and forth,” John explains. His father “participated in the construction. Because sometimes taking it from the paper to a float you encounter difficulties that you might not think of. So there had to be some interpretation to get from two dimensions to three.”

Yet, as much as Walker enjoyed float design, to support his family, he returned to the railroad, working 3 - 11 p.m. shifts and spending mornings and early afternoons on his art. In 1955, the family moved to a house on Pinehill Drive with an outbuilding Walker used as his studio. Painting, according to John, was what Walker “really wanted to do.” And though his float designs tended toward grand and epic scenes from history and literature, his paintings gravitated to themes of everyday life, with a particular affinity for workers and the waterfront.

Looking back over 30 years of Walker’s float designs, Delaney and Turner offer some highlights: a golden coach with maskers inside, a giant sphynx, two knights in armor on horseback, an enormous magnum of Champagne from which the cork popped and bubbles floated up into the night, a working roller coaster and Ferris wheel, a 16-foot teepee, a submarine. “John Augustus Walker created all the [IM] parades and balls of this era,” they write. “Surely no man in the history of Mobile has given more pleasure to her people.” MB

Emily Blejwas is the director of the Alabama Folklife Association and author of “The Story of Alabama in Fourteen Foods.”

The Excelsior Band

band’s history. Yet, we all know this band has been marching on these streets as long as any of us or our forebears can remember.

We do know that the band was founded in 1883 by John Alexander Pope, president of the famous Creole Fire Company No. 1. He attended Creole Catholic School in Mobile, and was an undertaker as well as a fireman. Legend has it that the firemen would gather in the upstairs rooms of the firehouse on North Dearborn Street in Mobile during their downtime and play music together. It was unofficial and unorganized until Pope had a son in November of 1883 and invited friends to his home for a celebration. The firemen formed the Excelsior Band to mark the occasion.

The band quickly garnered local acclaim, and before long, began travelling to the Mississippi Gulf Coast or hopping the train to New Orleans for gigs. They marched in Mardi Gras parades, including the King Felix III parade as early as 1909, according to historian Emily Ruth Allen. And while they may be best known to the public for parades, The Excelsior Band has also played to mystic balls and gatherings as well as weddings and funerals, the later of which is tied to Pope’s role as an undertaker.

In her dissertation focusing on brass bands in Mobile’s Mardi Gras, Allen shares an account from Eoline Pope Scott, the granddaughter of the band’s founder, about watching the parades as a child in the 1910s and 1920s. “Where we stood to see the parade was on Government Street, and we used to holler, ‘Hey Papa.’ My Daddy was in front of The Excelsior Band. He’d turn around and wave and keep going. He played the trumpet. He was the leader of the band, The Excelsior Band. And they had to put The Excelsior Band as the last band in the parade, because all the maskers would be behind his band.” Her father, John C. Pope, was the second band leader, after his father, and the band continued to grow and pass down through relatives and close friends only for some time after that.

text by MAGGIE LACEY

It’s a band that needs no introduction. When you see the suits, the horns, the sousaphone with 1883 painted stoically across its bell, you know the Excelsior Band is coming. In fact, this ensemble of 12 players usually leads the parades as they roll through the streets of Mobile. It is an honor bestowed on Mobile’s oldest band, perfectly setting the tone for the ensuing fun. Surprisingly little is known about the band, despite its omnipresence and longevity. Because of a lack of photos, recordings or written accounts, it has been challenging for current bandleader Hosea London to fully trace the

It’s interesting to note that the band originally marched at the back of white parades, whereas today they proudly lead most. According to Allen, performing as a musician was one of the few ways people of color could participate in predominantly white Mardi Gras parades through the early years. Yet as Creole people of color, the band always occupied that interesting space between white society and other people of color, and it still has to carefully navigate race today. “When you walk into a room, you know that the people are already familiar with you, they like your music, they’re excited that you’re there. That’s a great feeling.” Being known — and known for one particular style of music

Dating back to 1883, The Excelsior Band has been delighting Mobilians for generations and breaking barriers along the way.

— also works to their artistic advantage. “I don’t have anybody telling me to play ‘Brick House,’” he laughs, thankful.

By the 1950s, the band had expanded beyond the original Pope family and friends, simply looking for talented musicians. “Just about everybody in Mobile — African American who was a significant musician at one time or another — has probably played with the Excelsior Band,” says London. The band doesn’t rehearse and offers no training to new members. They just show up, jump in there and try to keep up. “Most of these guys have played in polished bands before, and we’re playing jazz standards that people know and love. Each one of our performances is an opportunity to learn something.”

Frank Ponquinette joined the band when he was 17 years old, and now, at age 95, is the band’s oldest member. The youngest, 18-year-old Aaron Covin, started at one of the band’s annual summer music camps for kids. Camps are a way for the band to give back to the community, get instruments into the hands of kids from across town and possibly build a pool of talented musicians to pull from one day.

The depth in their ranks allows any combination of players, from three to all 12, to attend functions and events. And, with plenty of older members in their roster, they are more likely to have someone available during the day or on the spur of the moment.

Current Excelsior trombonist Carl Cunningham Jr. remembers admiring the band as a kid along the parade routes. “They asked if I wanted to be a member of the Excelsior Brass Band. And, of course, I said yes. Because I’ve watched them my entire life and thought, ‘I’ll never be one of them.’ And now I’m one,” he told Allen. “Excelsior is big on presentation, tradition, upstanding men in the community. I guess I checked the boxes.” A lifelong musician with roots in Mobile dating to 1868, he certainly checked the boxes as someone who appreciates and understands Carnival. His family figures prominently in MAMGA festivities and traditions. Musicians like Cunningham are poised to continue the band’s legacy of excellence and take it into the coming decades.

London agrees that presentation is a big part the band’s image, with the dark suits and caps omnipresent. “In the

‘70s, I was a member of the musician’s union, and they called me and said someone needed a trumpet. And they said, ‘it’s a band, wear a black suit, and a black cap, and a white shirt.’ And that was it.” It was 1976 and London hasn’t left the band since, becoming the band leader and manager in 2002. It’s this professional appearance, he argues, that has endeared the band to conservative white audiences, and opened a lot of doors. With no sound equipment, there’s almost no setup and no hassle. Like a Dr. Seuss character, they can play on the go, here or there, anywhere to suit the occasion or location.

While the group clearly has local and regional admiration, they recently added national attention to that list. Last year, the Excelsior Band received the National Heritage Fellowship from the National Endowment for the Arts. Only about a dozen of these awards are given each year nationwide, and Excelsior is counted among a very small number of Alabamians to ever receive it, including the quilters of Gee’s Bend, among others.

Along with the recognition comes a $25,000 grant that Excelsior is using to better organize the business side of the band, form an LLC and attempt to take some control of their image and likeness, which is used all over town. Through the years, they most often played from gig to gig, paycheck to paycheck. London hopes to leave his tenure as Excelsior’s band leader with a secure future, and a fully known past as well. He is working with the local archives to develop a space to display their history and educate future generations about the many musical accomplishments of Mobilians. Sometimes it starts with simply walking down the street, instrument in hand, and leads to an almost 140 year legacy. These musicians have lead some of the most important events in our lives, and we look forward to 140 more. MB

Opposite John A. Pope, the founder of the Excelsior Band.

COURTESY OF MRS. EOLINE SCOTT, THE DOY LEALE MCCALL RARE BOOK AND MANUSCRIPT LIBRARY, UNIVERSITY OF SOUTH ALABAMA. Above The Excelsior Band plays at the Church Street Graveyard (top) and the Phoenix Fire Museum(bottom).

PHOTOS BY KEYHOLE PHOTO

text by MARISSA DEAL •

KEYHOLE PHOTO

MARDI GRAS LIKE AN EXPERT

As a new Carnival season rolls into the Bay area, let’s take a peek into how a few seasoned insiders celebrate the festivites in style.

photo this page by

Mobile natve and UMS-wright alumnae Alyson Cain has a long history of family traditons with Mardi Gras. When not donning her go-go boots or catching her favorite throws, Cain works with her husband Cy at Cain Real Estate and is a mother of two. Her son Trip is an 8th grader at St. Ignatus and daughter Anna Grace is a senior at McGill-Toolen who plans to follow in her mother’s footsteps and atend the University of Alabama in the fall.

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“I GET IN THE MARDI GRAS SPIRIT ON THE EPIPHANY, WHICH IS JANUARY 6. THAT FIRST SLICE OF KING CAKE LETS YOU KNOW IT IS TIME!”

PHOTO

PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU

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“I DECORATE MY HOUSE WITH LOTS OF MARDI GRAS ITEMS. I HAVE JESTERS, BEADS, MOONPIES, AND SERPENTINE. I HAVE FLAGS THAT HANG FROM MY CABINETS AND, THEN THERE ARE MY MANNEQUIN LEGS…”

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Sometme in the season, I have to have a chicken on the stck and a Polish sausage.

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Most of the tme, I’m going to ust view the parade and will ust wear a light backpack. If I’m trying to hustle (M Avenue Parade) or if I know someone riding, I will bring a potato peanut sack to catch throws in.

<1$ *"")$3"&='-9 sually, family and friends, which has been a traditon since I was a child, or with a few friends from my Mardi ras organi aton.

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Anything thrown by someone who made eye contact with me from their float, stu ed animals or anything that is in a large package. If it hits the ground, the kids can have it. If kids are around, l usually let them have what I catch.

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My favorite parade has always been the Mystc Stripers. hey’ve always had the best-looking floats on what I call the first night of the big parades. When I was in the marching band at eFlore igh School, this would be the first night that we would march. I remember everyone antcipatng us and seeing the crowds react as we came marching down the street. he Stripers always have a good theme as well.

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Standing across the street from the Mobile arnival Museum on overnment Street, you eventually get to see the parade twice. nce when it goes down, and again when it comes back to the ivic enter to disband.

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If you want to watch the parade, get there early, and stand on the barricades. If you want to catch a lot of throws, stay o the barricade and stand behind the people on the barricades or next to someone with a sign with someone’s name.

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Mardi ras has always been my favorite holiday. As a child, it was the one tme when rules could be broken. I remember coming home from school and not having to do homework or follow regular routnes. I also en oyed spending tme with my family.

“MARDI GRAS HAS ALWAYS BEEN MY FAVORITE HOLIDAY. AS A CHILD, IT WAS THE ONE TIME WHEN THE RULES COULD BE BROKEN. ”

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“AS A KID, OUR DINING ROOM TRANSFORMED FROM FORMAL TO A THROWS STAGING AREA AROUND EPIPHANY. THE HOUSE SMELLED OF PAL BUBBLE GUM, BANANA MOON PIES AND CRACKER JACKS THE FIRST FEW MONTHS OF THE YEAR.”

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PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU

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PHOTO BY KEYHOLE PHOTO

Four years ago, Grace was just a dream and a drawing on a napkin. Co-owners Noell Broughton and David Shipman long envisioned opening Dauphin Street’s first rooftop dining establishment — it was just a matter of finding the perfect location. So, when the former Catholic Social Services building became available, Broughton immediately went to investigate. Though it needed a lot of work, he knew he had found the right place. His vision was a welcoming, unfussy environment that served elevated cuisine but without pretension. “We’re the kind of place that has rolled silverware, but no tablecloths,” he explains.

That atmosphere begins downstairs with warm wood, custom whiskey barrel light fixtures, areas of exposed brick and striking red booths. Large TVs line the walls and the bar is backlit in a flourish of red. Upstairs, the outdoor rooftop is flanked by an inviting bar and large couches with red pillows. All are accentuated by magnificent views of the downtown Mobile skyline. Heat lamps and firepit tables make it possible to settle in on chilly nights.

Executive Chef Mark Strickland developed a cocktail list that is a nod to the history of the building. Inventive, artfully-crafted

creations are categorized as “Holy Spirits” or “Seven Deadly Sins,” with playful elements that complement the theme. All ingredients are prepared in-house.

This level of commitment also extends to the food. The fish comes straight from the Gulf. The meats are sourced from local farmers whenever possible. All sauces and stocks are made in Grace’s kitchen. A pastry chef makes the bread using a 50-year-old starter and prepares desserts daily.

Strickland’s menu reflects his training in French classical cooking with a Gulf Coast flare, such as fresh catch pecan menuiere. He also revived beloved entrees from past restaurants. One favorite: the duck spinach salad. “It’s exciting to bring these dishes back for people who miss them and, at the same time, to introduce them to a whole new audience,” he says. Meanwhile, handmade pasta, fresh seafood and dazzling tomahawk steaks whirl out of the kitchen. The latter garners diners’ awe as they go by. The result is a devilishly good time on Dauphin Street, with gourmet food served in a come-one, come-all spirit — just don’t forget to say grace. MB

text by MARISSA DEAL • photos by ELIZABETH GELINEAU

BANANAS FOSTER TRES LECHES CAKE

LUST COCKTAIL

BANANAS FOSTER TRES LECHES CAKE

A match made in heaven! Bananas are coated in a rich, buttery cinnamon sauce and then flambeed for that perfect sugary crunch. It is served over light, airy, tres leches cake that balances the bananas. You might lick the plate if no one is looking.

LUMP CRABMEAT WITH FRIED GREEN TOMATO NAPOLEON

Thick-cut fried green tomatoes are topped with buttery lump crabmeat and finished off with a champagne cream sauce.

BRAISED BEEF SHORTRIB RAGOUT

Beef shortrib, braised for 15 - 20 hours, is served in a vibrant, savory sauce of San Marzano tomatoes, fresh spinach, shitake mushrooms and fresh roasted garlic atop a bed of homemade pappardelle pasta.

BRAISED BEEF SHORTRIB RAGOUT

TOOMEY’S MARDI GRAS BROUGHT THE BOOM BOOM TO THE PARTY WITH BEADS, DOUBLOONS AND MORE.

A Good Time Was Had By All

LLaughter reverberates inside the carriage house. It makes its way past the doors adorned with tricolorbeaded wreaths and echoes through the chilly air in the Ezell House courtyard to be heard by passersby on Conti Street. Inside, the aroma of shrimp Creole and red beans and rice surrounds plates of MoonPie balls, mini muffulettas and French bread stacked next to crawfish dip. Convivial chatter is dappled by the clink of ice cubes into lowball glasses, signaling the promise of old fashioneds soon to come. The good times are ready to roll, thanks to sisters Gina, Marcia and DeeDee, mom Marsha and sister-in-law Marcelle. Welcome to a Mardi Gras party with the Naman family.

A Family History

text by AMELIA ROSE ZIMLICH photos by ELIZABETH GELINEAU

From the moment the first string of serpentine winds its way from a reveler’s hand, Mobile becomes a whirl of activity. The Ezell House, an archetype of Port City

With family history in the venue and family staples on the menu, the Naman sisters know how to make the good times roll.

entertaining and host to many a Mobile celebration, is nestled in the center of the action, making it a quintessential party venue come Carnival. For the Naman family, the once-residential home’s generational history makes it particularly fitting for their own festivities.

“Members of our family lived in this house from the 1920s until the mid ‘70s,” says Marcia. “We have attended many family functions here throughout the years.” An immigrant from Lebanon, Kaleel Zoghby moved to Mobile with his daughter Helen. Eventually, the whole family joined them in the Port City, where they put down roots. When she grew up, Helen married George Elias Naman, another Mobile-based Lebanese immigrant, and they had 11 children together, running a small food store at 505 Dauphin Street.

Every Mardi Gras, Louis, George’s youngest son, would sell peanuts on the street during the parades in front of the Athelstan Club. “The club was a symbol to him of beauty, success and achievement, and he dreamed of one day watching the parade with his own family from that very spot,” says Louis’ son, Judge Edmond Naman. He would join the Athelstan Club years later; one of his granddaughters would be leading lady of the club’s Domino Ball and other grandchildren would serve in the court. Today, many of the Namans are involved in mystic societies, making their balls and parades a part of their yearly tradition — and continuing to make Louis’ Mardi Gras dreams a reality.

Living in the Ezell House was another dream-to-reality moment for the family. “They worked hard to bring their family to the United States to live the American Dream,” says Marcelle. “The Ezell House represents the fruits of their labor. It is a beautiful story of perseverance and faith.” Though no longer a residential home, its legacy has stretched to the present day, where descendants gather in celebration.

“Mardi Gras in Mobile is special because of its family fun and rich history of pageantry and frivolity,” says DeeDee. “There is truly something for everyone young and old alike.”

Good Food and Good Times

The 19th-century-era home also has a history of notable food and drink, having played host to Bernard’s Restaurant, the younger cousin of Antione’s Restaurant in New Orleans, for a decade beginning in 1978. In the years since, its carriage house and inside kitchen have seen more toasts made, parties thrown and families enjoying good times together. History repeats itself, after all, and a little revelry and a good meal is to be expected.

MARCIA’S MOONPIE BALLS

MAKES ABOUT 16 BALLS

1 box vanilla MoonPies

4 ounces cream cheese

1 bag of white chocolate chips

Yellow, purple and green sprinkles for garnish

1. Place MoonPies in a food processor and pulse until they resemble breadcrumbs.

2. Mix in cream cheese and pulse until it forms a dough.

3. Form dough into balls.

4. Place in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours, or overnight.

5. Melt white chocolate chips in a bowl over medium heat. Dip cake balls in the chocolate and place on a cookie rack.

6. While the chocolate is still wet, top with sprinkles.

7. Allow to dry before serving.

“I HAVE LEARNED THE KEY TO ENTERTAINING FOR MARDI GRAS IS TO KEEP IT SIMPLE AND FUN, MAKE FOOD THAT YOU CAN PICK UP AND EAT EASILY.”

- MARCIA NAMAN LUCKIE

“I have learned the key to entertaining for Mardi Gras is to keep it simple and fun,” says Marcia. “Make food that you can pick up and eat easily.” Many of the dishes brought by the Namans are family staples; all are homemade. DeeDee serves mini muffuletta sliders as family members rotate in and out of the celebration. Behind the bar, Marcia’s husband Stuart, the designated bartender for the day, makes his signature old fashioned, complete with a garnish of skewered oranges and cherries, while maintaining a steady flow of conversation with each new member who drops in. Gina, Marcia and Marcelle keep the tray of French bread and bowls of red beans and rice filled, seeing to it that neither guest nor family member leaves with an empty stomach.

A Connection to the Past

“One of my favorite things about Mardi Gras is its connection to the past,” says Marcia. “Some of the parading societies are over 100 years old. People have been watching these parades on the same streets for generations.” The culmination of our past and present defines Mobile’s Mardi Gras, both steeped in tradition and alive in the here and now.

Jubilant chaos encircles the Ezell House, where the family dances on the patio, drinks

in hand. The house’s original driveway, once marked by horse hooves plodding up and down, is now scattered with doubloons and beads, the result of a second line. The energy is as infectious as that of the crowds lining Government Street on Fat Tuesday. There’s no other way to put it: Everyone is having a ball. However, today, the Krewe of Naman has traded in the tails and tableau in favor of one rule: “Don’t worry about being too formal,” explains Marcelle. “Let the good times roll as they will!” MB

STUART’S OLD FASHIONED

MAKES 1 COCKTAIL

3 ounces bourbon (this recipe used Woodford Reserve, but you can use your favorite)

1 tablespoon Luxardo, or a few bourbon cherries

1 1/2 ounces simple syrup

8 shakes Peychaud’s bitters

8 shakes Angostura bitters Cocktail ice, ice cubes or ice balls

Orange peel twists and cherries, for garnish

1. Pour simple syrup into a lowball glass.

2. Add in Luxardo or bourbon cherries and muddle.

3. Add both bitters to muddled mixture.

4. Stir for about 30 seconds to help break down sugars.

5. Add your favorite cocktail ice, large cubes or balls. Fresh Market has large round ice perfect for this drink.

6. Pour over bourbon.

7. Stir and garnish with orange and cherries.

DEEDEE’S MINI MUFFULETTA SLIDERS

MAKES 12 MINI SANDWICHES (1 TO 2 PER PERSON)

2 cups prepared olive salad (I buy the 32-ounce jar)

12 Hawaiian bread rolls

6 ounces sliced salami

6 ounces soppressata

6 ounces prosciutto

6 ounces sliced mortadella

6 ounces thin-sliced deli roast beef

6 ounces provolone, sliced

1. Without separating, slice the entire top off the set of Hawaiian rolls. Place the bottom halves on a baking sheet.

2. Spread the olive salad on the bottom half of the rolls, then layer the meats and cheese.

3. Spread a little olive oil from the olive salad on the top layer of the buns. Place the top half of the buns back on the bottom halves.

4. Wrap with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least two hours, or up to 24 hours.

5. Place on a cutting board, then slice the rolls and serve. You may use a decorative toothpick for a festive look.

Notes: You can substitute savory butter rolls if you prefer. You may substitute meats and cheese to your liking, such as Swiss, mozzarella, ham or turkey.

Opposite from top Marcelle and Marcia enjoy food and drink inside the carriage house. Stuart Luckie, whose law office is on the second floor of the Ezell House, mixes up an old fashioned. Clockwise from top DeeDee’s mini muffuletta sliders are easy to make and even easier to eat. Gina and Marsha share a laugh. Beads strung from iron gates are a common sight in Mobile during Mardi Gras and beyond.

“ MARDI GRAS IN MOBILE IS SPECIAL BECAUSE OF ITS FAMILY FUN AND RICH HISTORY OF PAGEANTRY AND FRIVOLITY, THERE IS TRULY SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE YOUNG AND OLD ALIKE.”

- DEEDEE NAMAN HAND

GINA’S CRAWFISH DIP

SITTY’S SHRIMP CREOLE

MARCELLE’S RED BEANS AND RICE

GINA’S CRAWFISH DIP

SERVES 8-10

1/2 cup butter

1 bunch green onions, sliced

1 bell pepper, diced

1 pound cooked crawfish*

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 4-ounce jar diced pimiento, drained

2 – 3 teaspoons Creole seasoning

1 8-ounce package cream cheese, softened

French bread baguette slices

Sliced green onion, chopped flat-leaf parsley for garnish

1. Melt butter in a Dutch oven over medium heat.

2. Add green onions and bell pepper. Cook for 5-8 minutes or until bell peppers are tender.

3. Stir in crawfish, garlic, pimentos and creole seasoning, stirring occasionally. Cook an additional 8-10 minutes.

4. Reduce heat to low and stir in cream cheese. Stir until cheese melts and is smooth and bubbly.

5. Serve with toasted French bread slices.

* You can either use package frozen cooked, peeled crawfish tails, thawed and undrained or 5 pounds of leftover crawfish from a crawfish boil. You can also substitute shrimp or use 1/2 crawfish and 1/2 shrimp.

SITTY’S SHRIMP CREOLE

Marsha is lovingly called Sitty, the Lebanese word for “grandmother,” by her grandchildren.

SERVES 8

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 green bell pepper, diced

1/2 cup onion, diced

2 celery stalks, diced

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 14.5-ounce can stewed tomatoes

1 8-ounce can tomato sauce

1 32-ounce carton chicken broth

1 cup water

1 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1 tablespoon water

1. Add olive oil in a mediumsized pot over medium-high heat. Add in bell pepper, onion and celery, and cook until tender.

2. Add in stewed tomatoes, tomato sauce, chicken broth and water. Add shrimp and cover and let simmer for about 5-7 minutes until the shrimp are cooked through.

3. Mix together the cornstarch and water and stir into the sauce. Cook for an additional 1-2 minutes to let the sauce thicken.

4. Serve over rice.

Ezell House History

The Ezell House was commissioned by Martin Horst in 1863. A grocer who served as mayor in 1871, he lived in the house until his death in 1878. His family maintained ownership of the house until 1923, at which time the Zoghby family moved in. It was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1971, and switched hands in 1978, becoming home to Bernard’s Restaurant, which remained open for a decade. In 1993, it was saved from demolition by Mark and Patricia Watters Ezell, and was restored. The house is now available to rent as a venue for parties, weddings and receptions in downtown Mobile.

MARCELLE’S RED BEANS AND RICE

SERVES 10-12

1 pound dry red beans, soaked overnight

1 white onion, diced

2 - 3 celery sticks, diced

1 stick butter

1 carton chicken broth

1 pound Conecuh sausage, sliced

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon sugar

1 tablespoon Tony Chachere’s Original Creole Seasoning seasoning

Salt and pepper to taste

Diced green or white onion, for garnish

6 cups cooked rice

White vinegar, to taste

1. Sauté onion and celery in butter.

2. in a slow cooker set to low, combine drained beans, sauteed vegetables, broth, sausage and seasonings. Cook for 8 hours.

3. Divide cooked rice into serving bowls. Ladle red beans over and top with diced onion and a dash of vinegar, to taste.

Above Gina, Marcelle, Marcia and DeeDee outside the Ezell House.

Mardi Gras Through The Lens

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!+&'34+0.)&+5 he Mystc Striper mblem Float makes its way through the streets of Mobile.

Downtown Mobile skyline lit up in Mardi ras colors with the inaugural Mardi ras ree from in Mardi ras Park.

0)1"+&'2-+.3 Sarah Boehm patently waitng for the arrival of the parade.

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I took this fun photo Mardi ras Day, February , . I think it captures the sheer fun of standing shoulder to shoulder with friends, family, neighbors and strangers, grabbing for treasures.

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RODEO NUTRIA

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text by AUDREY MCDONALD ATKINS photos courtesy DOY LEALE MCCALL RARE BOOK AND MANUSCRIPT LIBRARY

Begun by the Mobile County Wildlife and Conservation Association in 1958, the Nutria Rodeo was a concerted effort to rid the MobileTensaw Delta of an invasive, semiaquatic rodent that was decimating the native marsh grasses, much to the chagrin of the area’s duck and rabbit hunters as well as ecologists.

Nutria are native to South America and look sort of like a beaver with a rat’s tail, webbed feet and long, bright orange front teeth. And while they are not necessarily the prettiest animal in the wild kingdom, they do have thick, dark brown fur with a soft gray undercoat. And it’s because of this fur, which was very desirable for

THIRTEEN

coats and other fashion accessories in the early 1900s, that nutria were brought to the United States. As the story goes (and it is a story due to conflicting accounts), sometime in the 1930s, Tabasco founder E.A. McIllhenny brought several nutria to Avery Island, Louisiana from Argentina to farm for their fur. But we can’t lay the blame squarely on his shoulders — others tried to capitalize on this fashion trend as well. Of course, some of the nutria escaped and some were set free around 1939 and, as destiny would have it, in 1940, a tremendous hurricane hit Louisiana, destroying a number of the nutria enclosures and letting a hundred or more loose.

THE GESTATION PERIOD OF THE NUTRIA IS ONLY 130 DAYS, AND THERE CAN BE AS MANY AS NUTRIA IN A LITTER

“There was a kaleidoscope of characters there. And you had everybody…you had all walks of life involved. It wouldn’t just be judges and lawyers and businessmen, or just rednecks – it was just people that were going out to get outdoors and trying to help Mobile County wildlife.” That’s how Win Hallett describes Mobile’s famous – or infamous – Nutria Rodeo.

A THREAT

Now, while a hundred nutria in the vast Louisiana swamplands might not sound like much, it would prove devastating. Not only are the critters voracious herbivores that eat about 25 percent of their body weight each day, but they also reproduce like wildfire. The gestation period of the nutria is only 130 days, and there can be as many as 13 nutria in a litter. To compound matters, a female nutria can become pregnant again two days after giving birth.

It didn’t take long before the nutria started moving east toward new marshes with more plentiful vegetation and less competition for food — like the Mobile delta.

And as if to create the perfect storm, alligators had been hunted into near extinction about this same time in Alabama. In 1938, the state began taking action to protect the remaining alligators and put a moratorium on alligator hunting. So, with few alligators to prey on them, the nutria population exploded. Vast areas of cattails and marsh grasses were eaten into oblivion and replaced with open waters. Ducks, rabbits and other game were losing their habitat, and local hunters took note.

Something had to be done to save the Delta

Enter the Mobile County Wildlife and Conservation Association which had a grand idea — why not organize a hunt, give out some prizes and make it a party?

“When I got involved in environmental matters in Mobile, I became quite involved in a lot of environmental groups — Mobile County Wildlife, Ducks Unlimited, Gulf Coast Conservation which later became Coastal Conservation Association — and at one point, maybe it was probably the early 70s, I became president of Mobile County Wildlife,” remembers retired judge Randy Butler. “And it was a really active organization back then. We had barbecues. We raised money. We had a speckled trout rodeo down at Dauphin Island. And I also inherited the Nutria Rodeo.”

Before Butler took the helm, participants set the Delta on fire to lure nutria out to the waiting hunters.

“In the fall of each year, you could see acres and acres and acres of marsh grass that was intentionally set on fire in the Delta north of the Causeway,” Butler recalls. “You could be downtown and see huge plumes of smoke. Hundreds of acres at a time would be burning.”

It’s been reported that the first Nutria Rodeo eliminated 5,000 nutria. Ultimately, setting fires was deemed cruel to the other wildlife in the marshes and thus abandoned. But the hunt itself carried on. And over

Above Walter Holmes, band director at CBH for over 30 years, learned much of what he knew about music while growing up in an orphanage himself. The experience would inspire him to

Top Barefooted CBH students work in a classroom on Dauphin Street. The boys were educated at the Home from the fourth to eighth grades. Beginning in ninth grade, they were shuttled to McGill Institute in a red and white bus with a large cardinal bird painted on the side.

NUTRIA THREATENED THE BIODIVERSITY OF THE BAY AND WERE CAPABLE OF CAUSING EXTINCTION OF NATIVE PLANTS AND ANIMALS

the years, even as the nutria population steadily decreased, the spectacle surrounding the Nutria Rodeo increased. Frankly, like most things tend to do in Mobile, it turned into a big party.

“It was a guys’ weekend, you know, for getting away,” says Butler. “And there’d be drinking and carrying on. And they would kill nutria, and then we’d all rally up on the Causeway. Everybody would turn in their nutria, and you would get a prize. And I think it might have been some silly nonsensical prize for the most nutria, the biggest and the smallest nutria.”

But it wasn’t just men who got in on the fun.

“My former husband, he didn’t like Mardi Gras, and that’s when [the Nutria Rodeo] usually is — during Mardi Gras. Now, me, I love Mardi Gras. I do. But he didn’t. Anyway, he finally convinced me one year to go to the Nutria Rodeo.” That’s Mobile native Julia Sanfilippo, one of the women who participated in the hunt. “We had a ball. We laughed about the whole thing. They had a nutria queen and all that stuff, and we thought it was just hysterical. But we always tried to shoot as many nutria as we could because he was a big duck-hunting fan.”

Yes, you heard that right — there was a nutria queen because what’s a festival without a queen? The late DeAnne DeMouy Tolleson was crowned the very first queen, an honor that even warranted a mention in her obituary: “DeAnne graduated from Bishop Toolen High School and attended the University of Alabama, where she was a member of Kappa Kappa Gamma sorority. Although she was a

Top An undated photograph shows the CBH Band outside the Lafayette Street home, with some members hanging out of a nifty bus with “Boys Industrial School Band” on the side.

Above Babe Ruth poses for a playful photograph with the CBH Band in 1929. Ruth, likely in town playing an exhibition game for the New York Yankees, wasn’t an orphan, but he spent some years attending school at a very similar home in Baltimore.

natural at playing the ukulele and bowling, everyone knew DeAnne was going places when she was crowned the first queen of the Nutria Rodeo.”

“When I was involved, all the barmaids up and down the Causeway were the ones that were selling tickets [to participate in the Nutria Rodeo], and the one that sold most would be the queen of Nutria Rodeo,” says Win Hallett. “And that was quite a neat deal. They put a funnel with a nutria tail through the top and put a bungee cord, and that would be the crown for the victory queen. They’d take ‘em around Chocolatta Bay in an airboat and come back. And they used to have this Quonset hut they called Trader George’s, and they had a court. It was ridiculous. But it was, you know, they were serious about what they were trying to do about knocking down the nutria. But the stuff that went on was pretty funny.”

And the competition for the prizes was fierce — fiercely funny

“They gave a prize for the most nutria brought in, and for the heaviest,” Hallett continues. “There was this one guy named Joe Delcambre, and he was a

THE FIRST NUTRIA RODEO IN 1958 ELIMINATED 5,000 NUTRIA

wonderful guy, God bless his soul. He was the guy who would have the weigh station. And he used to tell the story about some of these guys that would load nutria down with window sash lead and all kinds of things. He said that one of them was so stiff he couldn’t even bend it to get it on the scale.”

Even with all the fun and frivolity, the Nutria Rodeo did accomplish some serious conservation goals. By 1976, only 300 nutria were harvested during the Nutria Rodeo — far below the 5,000 killed that first year. And, just before that, in 1973, Mobile County Wildlife and Conservation was named the top conservation organization in the state by the Alabama Wildlife Federation for its attempts to control the nutria.

“I tell you what, you had to be a little bit crazy, but it was a lot of fun,” says Hallett. “The interesting thing was after the nutria had done their damage, and they did a lot, they had a moratorium on the alligators, which they should have. And you used to be able to go in one of those bays at night trying to find your way or your camp or whatever, and you’d shine a light and you’d see all these eyes — just thousands of them. And they used to be the nutria. Then they became alligators. Alligators just waxed them, and they really helped because now the cane has come back dramatically. It’s significantly different than it was in the early seventies when I started messing with it.”

But despite all the good the Nutria Rodeo ultimately did for the Mobile-Tensaw Delta, it was not without its detractors, and Mobile socialite and activist Dorothy Trabits led the charge. “I’ve just felt for years that it was cruel,” Trabits told the Anniston Star in 1977. That same year, she spent more than $1,000 of her own money on TV and newspaper ads opposing the rodeo. That’s nearly $5,000 in today’s money. “It brutalizes people,” she said, “This hepped-up atmosphere with beer and prizes does not create the proper attitude for youth.”

During the last years of the rodeo, Trabits and other activists would bring signs and protest on the Causeway as the hunters came in with their bounty. “I did save one nutria,” Trabits told The Montgomery Advertiser in 1977. “One of the fellows gave him to me, and I put him in a clothes’ hamper and took him home. I put him in the marsh behind the house.”

In 1986, Trabits was quoted in The Montgomery Advertiser as saying, “They used to make a gala occasion out of seeing how many of the little furry animals they could kill.” And she also said that her greatest success was stopping the Nutria Rodeo. While Trabits and her protesters certainly didn’t help matters, it was a combination of the increasing alligator population and year-round nutria trapping that ended the rodeo.

The Nutria Rodeo has been part of Mobile history for nearly 45 years now, and the Mobile-Tensaw delta ecosystem has been restored. But the fond memories of those raucous days still loom as large as the nutria’s bright orange incisors. As Hallett recalls, the Nutria Rodeo was the best of two worlds, “It was a fun thing and something that appeared to be worthwhile.” MB

THE VERY FIRST NUTRA QUEEN WAS THE LATE DEANNE DEMOUY TOLLESON

ALL HAIL!

Navigating the Home-Buying Process

Historic or modern, on the Bay in Fairhope or in a historic district in Mobile. No matter your living preference, Mobile and Baldwin counties are two fast-growing counties in Alabama, each with a housing market full of coastal Alabama gems.

Despite this, the process of buying or selling a house can be intimidating, with many things to consider. Experts such as Baldwin Realtors President Rachel Romash-Reese and Mobile Area Association of Realtors President Charlie Plyler are here to guide you through and help simplify your experience.

text by KEYLEE FILLINGIM

The first step is understanding the current housing market and what it means for you. Over the past few years, the market has shifted to a sellers’ market, giving sellers the advantage of listing a house at their desired price and choosing from the best offer. On the other hand, due to a lack of inventory in the market and numerous offers on each listing, buyers rushed into purchases that may not have met all of their needs, and that they were ultimately disappointed with. Now, however, Romash-Reese believes the market is beginning to shift into a buyers’ market. This means

Follow these suggestions from local realtors on both sides of the Bay to ease the process of selling and buying a home in today’s market.

PHOTO BY SUMMER ENNIS ANSLEY

more houses on the market that fit buyers’ needs, allowing them to be more patient with the buying process and purchase homes they will be happy with.

To help you either make the best purchase or sell your house at the right price, the next thing on your list should be finding a real estate agent. It is important to look for a real estate agent that has experience and expertise helping others purchase or sell a home. Plyler states that agents are knowledgeable and have information that the general public does not have. An agent will be there to guide you and decide on the details, from location to pricing. Romash-Reese suggests interviewing at least three agents in the area you are interested in that know the local market. It is a good idea to consider how many houses they’ve sold and how long they have been in the business. After comparing potential realtors, it is up to you to make the decision.

When selling your home, a good real estate agent will help with the research on how to price your house, what cosmetic upgrades need to be done before listing it and how much money the process will require. Plyler believes a home with two bedrooms and a master bath makes for a good resale. Romash-Reese shares that having a good floor plan available for buyers can help with resale.

It is important to get your home as much attention as possible to get it off the market more quickly. Once your home is ready to be sold, a licensed real estate agent will take professional photographs of your home to share online. The agent will upload your photographs to the Multiple Listing Services (MLS) website. Putting photographs on MLS gives increased opportunities for resale. “By putting your home on MLS, you’re going to have 3,200 agents in Baldwin County looking at it and sharing with their clients,” explains Romash-Reese. “Then, you are going to have another 2,000 agents in Mobile County putting it on the MLS and shar-

ing it to get you the most exposure. This helps to maximize offers and interest in your property.” Having a strong online and social media presence is a great way to get exposure and spread the news that your home is available for purchase.

Once you put your house on the market, it is time to begin your own homepurchasing journey. To begin your homebuying process, you will need to research and interview multiple lenders. Each lender will have different interest rates, incentives and programs to consider. RomashReese suggests looking at the 2-1 buy down for a possibility of a low-interest rate for the first two years of your mortgage. This would allow you the opportunity to refinance your home within a few years.

After finding a lender, it is time to get pre-approved for a loan. Fortunately, the lender can often complete the pre-approval process in one day. Before finding a home that you are head-over-heels in love with, however, it’s important to establish a budget and decide what you can afford. Plyler and Romash-Reese agree that a

“BY PUTTING YOUR HOME ON MLS, YOU’RE GOING TO HAVE 3,200 AGENTS IN BALDWIN COUNTY LOOKING AT IT AND SHARING WITH THEIR CLIENTS. THEN YOU ARE GOING TO HAVE ANOTHER 2,000 AGENTS IN MOBILE COUNTY PUTTING IT ON THE MLS AND SHARING IT TO GET YOU THE MOST EXPOSURE. ”

– Rachel Romash-Reese, President Baldwin Realtors

PHOTO BY BAILEY CHASTANG

good credit score and a low debt-to-income ratio is important. If you miss one credit card payment, your score could go down by multiple points, which can increase the wait time to get a loan or result in creditors denying your loan. Also, having a better credit score can lower your interest rate. It is crucial to understand your budget and debt before deciding on your future home.

Now that you are pre-approved for a loan and have found a trusted agent, the house hunting begins. Your agent will send multiple properties in the area for you to consider. Mobile and Baldwin County both have homes to fit the needs of various people and families, taking in account factors such as job location, budget and family size. Romash-Reese makes a point to consider the more affordable taxes, rising home values and hot market in Baldwin County. People fly from all over the United States to live in Baldwin County; Romash-Reese herself is originally from New York. For those interested in historic homes and proximity to Downtown Mobile, Plyler suggests the Midtown Mobile as an area to consider. West Mobile is a popular area for newly constructed homes.

Another key step to consider is the home inspection. After a buyer goes under a contract, they have about ten days to get a home inspection. “Alabama is a buyerbeware state, and it is on the buyer to make sure that they may feel comfortable with the house,” said Plyler. “You always want to do your inspection, and your real estate agent should recommend at least three different home inspectors for you to choose from.”

Before buying a house, you want to look at everything that could go wrong and what health or safety hazards need to be fixed. A real estate agent will help find an inspector to check for any issues in a potential home. The inspector will examine the property and advise you on what aspects of the home look good and what may need to be replaced and how much time and money it will take to fix those issues. An old roof can cause a higher insurance quotient or may not be covered at all. Your home inspection is a top priority in

the buying process and can make or break your decision.

It is important to take your time purchasing your home. Plyler and RomashReese believe that the home-buying process should be enjoyable and settling should never be an option. If you are not satisfied with the homes you see on the market, wait until another appears. Once you have begun the process, trusting your

gut is the best thing to do. This home will hold your new memories, and it should not be rushed.

Baldwin and Mobile County real estate agents know the ins and outs of the business and are here to make sure you are taken care of. Make sure to trust the experts like Plyler and Romash-Reese to make buying or selling your home run smoothly. MB

PHOTO BY SUMMER ENNIS ANSLEY

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Unmasking February

THROUGH MARCH

OF MEN AND MYTHS

Immerse yourself in this interactive, multimedia exhibit that explores the impact of Joe Cain, Julian Lee Rayford and other key players in the birthplace of Mardi Gras. Ticket prices vary.

MOBILE CARNIVAL MUSEUM

MOBILECARNIVALMUSEUM.COM

THROUGH JUNE 21

SPIRITS OF THE PASSAGE: THE STORY OF THE TRANSATLANTIC SLAVE TRADE

In conjunction with the 150th anniversary of the Emancipation Proclamation, the GulfQuest Museum presents this display of about 150 historical objects spanning more than 350 years, delving into the history of the Transatlantic Slave Trade.

GULFQUEST MUSEUM

GULFQUEST.ORG

FEBRUARY 2 - 5

“DISNEY’S THE LITTLE MERMAID”

Thursday-Saturday at 7 p.m. Sunday at 2 p.m. Head “Under the Sea” with favorite Disney classic songs, such as “Kiss the Girl.” Tickets: $15 for all ages ORANGE BEACH PERFORMING ARTS CENTER ORANGEBEACHAL.GOV

STARTING FEBRUARY 3

TOYOPIA

From Pac-Man to Easy-Bake ovens, explore this exhibit featuring toys from the past and favorites from today. THE EXPLOREUM EXPLOREUM.COM

FEBRUARY 3

SENIOR BOWL MARDI GRAS PARADE

6:30 p.m. Line the streets and cheer on your favorite Senior Bowl players preceding the Conde Cavaliers parade.

DAUPHIN STREET, DOWNTOWN MOBILE SENIORBOWL.COM

To have your event included in the online or print edition of Mobile Bay

FEBRUARY 3

SENIOR BOWL STREET PARTY AND CONCERT

8 p.m. Enjoy a free concert from rapper Nelly, plus try specials at Downtown restaurants.

DOWNTOWN MOBILE, MARDI GRAS PARK SENIORBOWL.COM

FEBRUARY 4

BATTLEFIELD BLITZ 5K

8 a.m. Lace up for the annual park fundraiser held on the grounds of Alabama’s largest Civil War battlefield. Tickets: $20 adults; $15 for Blakeley supporters and children under age 12.

HISTORIC BLAKELEY STATE PARK BLAKELEYPARK.COM

FEBRUARY 4

SENIOR BOWL

1:30 p.m. The most prominent college football all-star game in the United States. Tickets $12 - 55.

HANCOCK WHITNEY STADIUM SENIORBOWL.COM

PHOTO BY JEFF TESNEY

FEBRUARY 10

LODA ARTWALK

6 p.m. - 9 p.m. Wander the streets of downtown Mobile to see local vendors and check out the theme of the month at this free event.

DOWNTOWN MOBILE MOBILEARTS.ORG

FEBRUARY 11

SUPER CHILI BOWL COOK-OFF

Sampling begins at noon. Taste chili variations and pick your favorite. Admission is $20 and proceeds benefit the American Cancer Society.

FLORABAMA FLORABAMA.COM

FEBRUARY 11

GRAND VALENTINE’S DINNER THEATRE

Enjoy a three course meal, love, laughs and a mystery with your sweetheart.

Tickets: $112.50.

GRAND HOTEL AND GOLF RESORT AND SPA EVENTBRITE.COM

FEBRUARY 11

SWEETHEART 5K, SEA TURTLE 1/2

MARATHON & ONE MILE FUN RUN

7 a.m. Pick your distance for a race at the Hangout.

THE HANGOUT GULFSHORES.COM

FLORABAMA SUPER BOWL CHILI COOKOFF

FEBRUARY 19

MOBILE ARTS COUNCIL MOB SQUIRREL SOIRÉE

11 a.m. - 2 p.m. Join the party and and comprise the “tail end” of the Joe Cain parade. Tickets: MAC members $75 single/$125 couple; Non-members $150 single/$200 couple.

6 SOUTH JOACHIM STREET MOBILEARTS.ORG

FEBRUARY 25

TOTO “DOGZ OF OZ TOUR”

8 p.m. Don’t miss the rains down in “Africa” for this popular band. Ticket prices vary.

SAENGER THEATRE

ASMGLOBALMOBILE.COM

FEBRUARY 25

ORANGE BEACH SEAFOOD

FESTIVAL AND CAR SHOW

10 a.m. - 4 p.m. This annual festival features food, artists, kids activities, music and a car show featuring antique, classic and hot rod vehicles.

THE WHARF, ORANGE BEACH GULFSHORES.COM

FEBRUARY 25

ANNUAL FORT MORGAN OYSTERFEST

10 a.m. - 4 p.m. Food — especially bivalves — and beverages, arts and crafts vendors, chef demos and live music are just some of the things this annual festival is made of. Tickets: $25-30, includes food and drink tickets.

BEACH CLUB RESORT, FORT MORGAN SASSYBASS.COM

[MARCH HIGHLIGHTS]

MARCH 11 - 12

MUSICAL ROMANCE

Saturday at 7:30 p.m. and Sunday at 2:30 p.m. Two of Russian music’s most romantic masterworks: Tchaikovsky’s Romeo & Juliet and Rachmaninoff’s Piano Concerto No. 2. Tickets start at $20.

SAENGER THEATRE ASMGLOBALMOBILE.COM

MARCH 17 - 19

VINTAGE MARKET DAYS

10 a.m. - 5 p.m. Peruse this upscale vintage market for art, furniture, clothing, edible delights and more.

GREATER GULF STATE FAIRGROUNDS 10TIMES.COM

MARCH 17 - 19

ANNUAL FAIRHOPE ARTS AND CRAFTS FESTIVAL

10 a.m. - 5 p.m. Roam the streets of Fairhope with 250,000 fellow art enthusiasts at the top art festival on the Gulf Coast.

DOWNTOWN FAIRHOPE FAIRHOPEAL.GOV

MARCH 25 - 26

MOBILE BALLET PRESENTS “SWAN LAKE”

Saturday at 7:30 p.m. and Sunday at 2:30 p.m. Tchaikovsky’s score is brought to life in one of ballet’s classic love stories. Tickets start at $20.

MOBILE CIVIC CENTER MOBILEBALLET.ORG

* Check event websites for most current status.

FAIRHOPE ARTS AND CRAFTS FESTIVAL

MARDI GRAS 2023

PARADE SCHEDULE

Presented by

WEEK 1

FEBRUARY 3

CONDÉ CAVALIERS

6:30 p.m. Route A

FEBRUARY 4

ORDER OF THE ROLLING RIVER

2 p.m. DIP

BAYPORT PARADING SOCIETY

2 p.m. Route A

MYSTIC D.J. RIDERS

2 p.m. Route A

PHARAOHS MYSTIC SOCIETY

6:30 p.m. Route A

CONDÉ EXPLORERS

7 p.m. Route A

WEEK 2

FEBRUARY 9

ORDER OF POLKA DOTS

6:30 p.m. Route A

FEBRUARY 10

ORDER OF INCA

6:30 p.m. Route A

APOLLO’S MYSTIC LADIES

6:45 p.m. Daphne

FEBRUARY 11

MOBILE MYSTICS

2 p.m. Route A

MOBILE MYSTICAL REVELERS

2:30 p.m. Route A

MOBILE MYSTICAL FRIENDS

3 p.m. Route A MYSTIC MUTTS OF REVELRY 3 p.m. Fairhope KNIGHTSOF ECOR ROUGE

p.m. Fairhope MAIDS OF MIRTH

p.m. Route G

ORDER OF BUTTERFLY MAIDENS

7 p.m. Route A

KREWE OF MARRY MATES

7:30 p.m. Route A ORDER OF HEBE 8:00 p.m. Route A

WEEK 3

FEBRUARY 12

NEPTUNE’S DAUGHTERS

6:30 p.m. Route A

ORDER OF ISIS

6:30 p.m. Route A

FEBRUARY 13

ORDER OF VENUS

6:30 p.m. Route A

ORDER OF MANY FACES

7 p.m. Route A

FEBRUARY 14

ORDER OF LASHE’S

6:30 p.m. Route A

ORDER OF OLYMPIA

6:30 p.m. Route A

FEBRUARY 16

MYSTIC STRIPERS SOCIETY 6:30 p.m. Route A

FEBRUARY 17

CREWE OF COLUMBUS 6:30 p.m. Route A KREWE DE SECONDLINE 6:30 p.m. Route A

MAIDS OF JUBILEE 6:45 p.m. Fairhope

FEBRUARY 18

FOLEY PARADE

11 a.m. Foley

KREWE OF SPARTA 12 p.m. Saraland

FLORAL PARADE

12 p.m. Route A

KNIGHTSOF MOBILE

12:30 p.m. Route A

MOBILE MYSTICAL LADIES

1 p.m. Route A

ORDER OF ANGELS

1:30 p.m. Route A

KREWE OF MULLET MATES

2 p.m. Fairhope

JOY OF LIFE

2 p.m. Route A

MYSTICS OF TIME

6 p.m. Route H

MYSTICS OF PLEASURE

6 p.m. Orange Beach

CORONATION OF QUEEN COOPER LELAND TO KING FELIX III

6:30 p.m. Mobile Convention Center

SHADOW BARONS

6:45 p.m. Daphne

ROUTE A

FEBRUARY 19

FORT MORGAN

PARADING SOCIETY

1 p.m. Fort Morgan

ARRIVAL OF KING ELEXIS I

2 p.m. Route E

LOYAL ORDER OF THEFIRETRUCK

2:29 p.m. Daphne

JOE CAIN PARADE

2:30 p.m. Route A

LE KREWE DE BIENVILLE

5 p.m. Route A

KREWE DU CIRQUE

6 p.m. OWA, Foley

WEEK 4

CORONATION OF KING ELEXIS

7 p.m. Mobile Convention Center

FEBRUARY 20

ARRIVAL OF KING FELIX III

11 a.m. Cooper Riverside Park

KING FELIX III PARADE

12 p.m. Route A

FLORAL PARADE

12 p.m. Route A

MLK BUSINESS AND CIVIC ORGANIZATION PARADE

3 p.m. Route D

ORDER OF MYSTIC MAGNOLIAS

6:45 p.m. Fairhope

INFANT MYSTICS

7 p.m. Route F

ORDER OF DOVES

7:30 p.m. Route F

FEBRUARY 21

(FAT TUESDAY)

GULF SHORES MARDI GRAS ASSOCIATION

10 a.m. Gulf Shores

ORDER OF ATHENA

10:30 a.m. Route A

KNIGHTSOF REVELRY

12:30 p.m. Route A

KING FELIX III PARADE

1 p.m. Route A

COMIC COWBOYS

1:30 p.m. Route A

MOBILE AREA MARDI GRAS ASSOCIATION PARADE

2 p.m. Route B

ORANGE BEACH PARADE

2 p.m. Orange Beach

ORDER OF MYTHS

6 p.m. Route C

Check event websites for most current status.

(right) is the most common parade route in Mobile. Scan the QR code below to see the other downtown Mobile routes.

Carnival, The Art of it All

In all its gaudy grandeur, Carnival utilizes — and manifests itself in — every form of art.

Carnival, with Mardi Gras at its height, is an economic engine, a jolly good time and, most importantly, a family affair. Mobile’s greatest living tradition is a cultural phenomenon that unites Mobilians and showcases our fair city at its very best. Carnival has long been known for its many artistic expressions. Art in all its forms — fine, decorative, textile, literary and performing — shines during Mobile’s most special season.

Painting

When thinking of fine art, most people think of paintings. Oil-oncanvas depictions of iconic Carnival traditions, spaces (gallery and street scenes) and emblem figures abound. One of the most important Carnival paintings is Edmond deCelle’s “Folly Chasing Death.” Commissioned by the Order of Myths (OOMs) in 1967, the hundredth anniversary of their founding, “Folly Chasing Death” depicts the Order’s iconic emblem and epitomizes the whimsical spirit behind Carnival. The painting is Edmond deCelle’s masterpiece. For fifty years, he designed floats, costumes and tableaux for the OOMs, Carnival’s oldest continu-

Above The Strikers Goat is no mere barn yard beast. This boy is the most valuable of Carnival art works. Left Edmund deCelle’s “Folly Chasing Death,” image courtsey the History Museum of Mobile, from the Collection of the Order of Myths.

text by CART BLACKWELL

ous parading society. “Folly Chasing Death,” which is rarely exhibited, was reproduced as a part of the Joe Cain installation of the History Museum of Mobile’s “History of Mobile in Twenty-Two Objects.”

Sculpture

Sculpture is another branch of the fine arts. When it comes to sculpture, “The Strikers Goat,” a monumental wooden carving of a horned specimen of that species, can be likened to “The Winged Victory” of Mobile Carnival art. This jaunty beast is also the second oldest known piece of Mobile Carnival art. Dating from 1870, “The Strikers Goat” is important for more reasons than its size and age. He (the boy is anatomically correct) is a testament to the early artistic impulses of Mobile’s mystic societies. That such a large and symbolic piece was commissioned is outstanding. “Striker,” as the goat is nicknamed, is the second-largest piece of wooden Postbellum sculpture in the American South. He is now on long-term loan to the Mobile Carnival Museum.

Decorative

The decorative arts take many forms, including silver, jewelry and other luxury items. These precious goods comprise the most numerous of all Carnival art forms. A delicious silver berry set commissioned by the Infant Mystics (IMs) in the 1870s is a fine example of Carnival object d’art. In their early years, the IMs bestowed a young lady with sets such as the berry service when she married a member of the mystic society. Very few services survive as a complete set. The Mobile Carnival Museum has the only documented full service.

Textiles

Textiles easily rank as the most popular of Carnival’s artistic expressions. From majestic trains worn by Mardi Gras royalty, to couture gowns worn by ladies attending balls to the costumes of maskers and ball leaders, Mobilians love to look the part for all Carnival occasions. Both the Mobile Carnival Museum and the History Museum of Mobile have extensive collections of trains: Julia Greer Fobes of Revelry Bloom’s splendid creation for the 2021 Queen of the Mobile Carnival Association and Pat Richardson’s fiery work for the 2022 King of the Mobile Area Mardi Gras Association have dropped the jaws of visitors to the Carnival Museum since their display in late Spring of 2021. In addition to Fobes’ and Richardson’s artistry, the work of Kim McKinney and Suzanne Lyell, Johnny Weaver, Cristal Hall and Maggie Utsey can currently be seen in the museum. In the realm of the costumes, Fobes’ Malificent gown, wings and headdress for the Nereides leading lady of 2022 is truly unforgettable. It, too, is on display in the Carnival Museum.

BY MATTHEW COUGHLIN

Parades and Tableaux –Unity of All Arts

Parades and tableaux are Mobile’s most comprehensive artistic expressions. They unite the fine, decorative and textile arts with the literary and performing arts. Architectonic — but in no means static — for a brief period of time, parades and tableaux are a moving vision of merriment.

Parades designed by Edward Ladd, Bradford Ladd, Barbara Ann Guthans, David Schmohl, Brent Amacker and others have caused streets to come alive – literally and figuratively. Steve Mussell, Craig Stevens and others realized these masterful designs in papier-mâché. Designers have worked with themes that range from classical mythology to medieval myth. Indeed, artists have translated everything from forms of world literature to comic strips into paper-mâché. One of Edward Ladd’s designs from 1998 took Barnum and Bailey’s Circus as its theme. Circus performers and elephants were in the parade and at the ball. An elephant on the streets of downtown Mobile — now that there calls for a Roll Tide! Costumes and floats kept to the theme, as did favors and pins.

The tableaux, the culmination of the parade-ball experience, continues the comprehensive artistic emersion. For over forty years, Ron Barrett’s designs for tableaux have brought the best of Broadway and Las Vegas to Mobile.

Tableaux are not the only sights of elaborate dance. Everyone has seen a rider who thinks, for one night, that he or she has better moves than Michael Jackson! The dance teams and bands, some from far out of state, have the real rhythm. Mobile’s own Excelsior Band is the ultimate master of the Port City’s Carnival beat.

Celebratory Summation

The art of Carnival is as varied as it is fun. Experienced during the season itself or yearround, the many forms of Mardi Gras art are dual creations of enlightened Mobilians and incredibly talented artists. Mobile’s 2023 Carnival season promises to be among its most brilliant. Enjoy the art, in all its forms, of the greatest show on the Gulf! MB

Above The royal robes of Laura Rutherford Adams, Queen of the Mobile Carnival Association court of 2021, are a tour de force created by Julia Greer Fobes of Revelry Bloom. PHOTO

Right In their earliest years, the Infant Mystics gifted silver to a lady when she married a member of their order. One of the few complete sets known to survive is in the collection of the Mobile Carnival Museum.

PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU

MoonPie, MoonPie, Fly to Me

Whether being thrown from a float, caught mid-air or dropped from a building, no town does MoonPies like Mobile.

JUICE

by AUDREY MCDONALD ATKINS

illustration by ANNA THORNTON

What is so good, so delectable, so prized that a seemingly sane person will jump a police barricade and run out in front of a moving vehicle to pluck it out of a horse-apple-tainted street and eat it?

A MoonPie, of course!

Originally intended to be a filling snack for miners, the MoonPie was first made in 1917 at the Chattanooga Bakery in Chattanooga, Tennessee. It is said that a bakery salesman was visiting a local company store and talked to a miner who complained that he often didn’t get a lunch break. The hungry man wished he had a substantial snack to hold him over during the day.

“How big should it be?” the salesman asked.

The miner held up his fingers framing the moon and told the salesman that he wanted a snack just that size. The salesman went back to the factory, relayed the request, and so it was. Now, nearly a hundred years later, this iced, marshmallow-filled cookie sandwich has become a southern snack staple.

Originally the MoonPie came in three flavors: chocolate, vanilla and banana. Now you can get them in strawberry, lemon, and orange was well as the ultra-trendy salted caramel, but somehow these new flavors don’t seem right to me. Too fruity.

Too fancy. Vanilla is my favorite, followed closely by chocolate. I have never been able to wrap my mind or my mouth around artificial banana flavoring, but my husband prefers that one to all the rest.

The MoonPie is now the edible “throw” of choice for Mardi Gras revelers partly because it doesn’t hurt much to get hit by one (unlike the Cracker Jack boxes they replaced) and partly because they are just dang good. Sometimes they will throw you extras if you holler “MoonPie, MoonPie, Fly to Me” as the floats go by. You can also ring in the New Year by watching a 600-pound, electric MoonPie light up the night sky right here in downtown Mobile where we also have the longest running Mardi Gras tradition in the United States. Need a new vacation destination? Try the MoonPie Festival in Bell Buckle, Tennessee.

How do you know if you are a true southerner? Aside from the requisite y’allin’ and drawlin’ and heart blessin’, if you’ve ever eaten a MoonPie and washed its waxy, sticky goodness down with an ice-cold RC Cola, your card can never, ever be revoked. You’re southern to the bone.

Fortunately for the MoonPie lovers among us, you don’t have to wait for Mardi Gras or risk life and limb and possible arrest to get one. MoonPies can usually be found at the corner store, the Pig and any other similar purveyor of fine foods. And when you do get one, peel back the plastic wrapper to reveal this delicacy in all its round, gooey glory, inhale the sweet smell of this timeless treat, and thank your lucky stars (and moon) for that enterprising salesman and the hungry miner. MB

 Born and raised in Citronelle, Atkins shares stories about growing up and living in the South in her book, “They Call Me Orange Juice,” and at her blog folkwaysnowadays.com.

excerpt from the book THEY CALL ME ORANGE

What is the history of the vacant building on Government Street that once housed the Mobile Press-Register?

text by TOM MCGEHEE

In February of 1919, a brick mansion occupying the northeast corner of Government and Claiborne streets was purchased by the Adams Machinery and Manufacturing Company. That company had previously sold Ford cars and trucks on North Royal Street near St. Louis Street. The firm’s president, Lucious Geneve Adams, was also a founder and president of the Mobile Automobile Club, which sought to promote “year-round roads” throughout Alabama, while teaching members safe driving habits.

The house, which dated back to 1844, was demolished. A construction permit was issued to Adams Motor Company in October of 1920 for a three-story brick structure with concrete slab floors. The architect was C. L. Hutchisson and the cost for the new building was given as $150,000, or nearly $2.3 million today. The building would fill the entire lot.

Largest in the South

When the firm was completed in 1922, it was advertised as “The Largest Automobile Building in the Entire South.” Adams Motor Company explained in the ad that “this structure is evidence of our faith in Mobile and the Port of Mobile.” The building’s first floor featured oversized plate glass

windows to show off the newest Fords and the more luxurious Lincolns.

According to a news account published at its completion, the plant contained a cafeteria for employees as well as “a hospital where first aid treatment can be rendered.” There is also an automatic soft drink machine whereby, “dropping a nickel, an employee can secure a soft drink.” As Coca-Cola bottler Walter Bellingrath was an investor, there was no doubt of the soft drink brand.

As the 1920s roared onward, the number of automobiles in Mobile soared. The very first — an electric model with a top speed of 15 miles per hour — had been on view in 1900 as an advertising gimmick. By 1904, the Mobile Register editorialized that “the automobile craze has struck this city,” noting the existence of 18 registered vehicles while condemning

drivers speeding about in “devil wagons.” By 1924, just two years after the new building for Adams Motor Company was completed, 14,000 automobiles were in Mobile.

Automobile Row Beckons

Although several auto dealerships were in the vicinity of the Adams firm, those businesses began to migrate to St. Louis Street in the late 1920s. That street, which had once held many beautiful 19th-century mansions, became an alternative route for auto traffic heading west. Real estate developers ran full-page advertisements promoting St. Louis Street as a faster route west than Government Street, and traffic soared. New dealerships followed. By the 1930s, St. Louis would be dubbed “Automobile Row.”

During the Depression years, Detroit ignored

Above Adams Motor Company on Government at Claiborne in the early twentieth century. COURTESY ERIK OVERBEY COLLECTION, THE DOY LEALE MCCALL RARE BOOK AND MANUSCRIPT LIBRARY, UNIVERSITY OF SOUTH ALABAMA

the request for affordable Fords made by Adams Motor Co. and instead filled their inventory with expensive Lincolns. As a result, the firm had financial difficulties, and ultimately became a Chevrolet dealership.

In 1941, the Adams firm and the owners of the Mobile Press Register swapped locations. The newspaper, which had been founded in 1929 and bought out the old Mobile Register in 1932, had been operating at 450 St. Louis Street at Hamilton Street. Mobile Daily Newspapers, Inc., remodeled the former car dealership while Chevrolets were now offered in the paper’s former home.

A Major Conversion and a Sad Ending

The exterior of the former car emporium received a major makeover. Gone were the large plate glass windows. All three floors were infilled with thousands of glass blocks centered with jalousie windows between.

The interior was fitted with the latest technology of the newspaper business. There were massive rotary presses and soundproofed rooms holding teletype machines rapidly firing off news stories from around the world. A large reference library was created for reporters and a room was built to house newspaper files stretching back more than a century. The building held a variety of office space as well as what was described as “a vast area for the Want Ad section.”

After 60 years at the corner of Government and Claiborne streets, the Mobile Press-Register spent millions in 2002 on a sprawling new plant on Water Street. The printing presses alone cost $20 million. A portion of the former location was sold and remodeled as a museum while the majority of the structure has remained forlornly vacant for more than two decades. Although it has changed hands, its future remains unknown.

Meanwhile, in 2012, the Mobile PressRegister ceased daily publication and, now, a decade later, announced it will cease newspaper publication entirely in February of 2023. MB

Oakdale Ice and Fuel Company Float

AT THE TURN OF THE TWENTIETH CENTURY, it was common for floats advertising local businesses to follow behind Mardi Gras parades in Mobile. The undated photo below shows one such float, which advertised the Oakdale Ice and Fuel Company. The company first appeared in the Mobile city directories in 1926 and the float, pictured in front of the business located at 900 South Broad Street, was decorated with ice blocks and plastered with signage that underscored the reliability of ice over that of the refrigerator, which was becoming popular in households during the late 1920s. The float was accompanied by music provided by Nelstone's Hawaiians, a duo started in southern Alabama by steel guitarist Hubert Nelson and guitarist James D. Touchstone.

"During the annual Mardi Gras parades of mystic societies in the city, no vehicle or advertising or display float not belonging to the mystic society then parading shall follow the parade of such society on the streets at a closer distance than three (3) blocks from the rear of such parade."

- the rules regarding advertsing during a Mardi Gras parade as listed in the Mobile Code of rdinances. This rule has been in place since at least March , .

Photo courtesy Erik Overbey Collection, The Doy Leale McCall Rare Book and Manuscript Library, University of South Alabama

The total number of listngs for ice dealers in the Alabama phone directory for Mobile, ay Minete, Citronelle and airhope in une .

The year elstone s Hawaiians made the rst original recording of ust ecause. The song went on to be covered by multple artsts, including Elvis resley in .

The number on Monroe Street where another Mobile ice company, Crystal Ice actory, was located. It is now home to the Ice o ar.