Mobile Bay Magazine _ November 2022

PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU

LITERATURE Writer Audrey McDonald Atkins recounts her lifelong struggle for voluminous hair

ASK MCGEHEE What was the Zimmer Memorial Home?

BACK STORY Peek into the history of the American Laundry Company before it eventually folded

SHRIMP AND GRITS AT FERUS BY THE BAY / PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU ANNA COWART AND SOUS CHEF / PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU CHILDREN OF THE PROTESTANT

PUBLISHER T. J. Potts

ASSISTANT PUBLISHER Stephen Potts

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Maggie Lacey

EDITORIAL CONSULTANT Judy Culbreth MANAGING EDITOR/WEB Mattie Naman PLANNING & DEVELOPMENT Amanda White

ART DIRECTOR Laurie Kilpatrick

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Amelia Rose Zimlich

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Marissa Deal EDITORIAL INTERN Keylee Fillingim Brianna Grady

MOVING?

Mobile Bay is published 12 times per year for the Gulf Coast area. All contents © 2022 by PMT Publishing Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of the contents without written permission is prohibited. Comments written in this magazine are those of the authors and do not necessarily re ect the opinion of the ownership or the management of Mobile Bay. is magazine accepts no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, photography or artwork. All submissions will be edited for length, clarity and style.

Prepare the feast

The Thanksgiving holiday combines just about everything I love. Crisp weather?

Time with family and friends? Lots and lots of cooking and eating? It’s got it all. I love to host, as well, which requires a lot of planning and preparation, but I am not embarrassed to say I kind of dig that, too. I’ve been known to drag a table out into the yard to make the most of the weather, set a pretty table with my brown and white china and cook up as many root vegetables and pecan desserts as I can manage.

These days a lot of my family lives out of state, so each gathering is a different compilation of siblings and cousins, depending on the year. Because of this, no one is set in their ways about what the menu has to be. Instead, each person joining that year gets to say what dish they couldn’t live without on Thanksgiving, and we plan the rest of the menu from there. Usually someone begs for the sweet potato casserole with mini marshmallows on top, and someone else says it couldn’t possibly be Thanksgiving unless there was oyster dressing on the table. Sometimes a niece begs for green bean casserole— the kind made with a can of cream of mushroom soup. And after we know what people are pining for— and divvy up the assignments—I usually add a few veggies to keep us from carb overload. It’s very democratic, always delicious and everyone is happy.

Last year was going to be a low-key year, just my kids and the grandparents. Mom and I had the above discussion (brussels sprouts for me, oysters for her) and divided the cooking between us. Unfortunately, right about the time I turned on the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day parade and preheated the oven, one of my kids came down with the stomach bug. I’ll spare you the details, but we canceled Thanksgiving lunch, hesitant to spread the superbug.

After a little debate, we decided the food was safe (or at least worth the risk!), and so mom and I met halfway between our two houses to share portions of the dishes we had each prepared. It was, if nothing else, a deliciously memorable holiday. Hoping this year is a bit less exciting.

Now it’s time to get cooking!

Our online store has tons of cute, custom, local and Bay-centric gifts and apparel for all your gifting needs! We are in love with these new “Mobile Bay” cardboard coasters, exclusive to Mobile Bay Magazine, showing all the landmarks you know and love. $18 for a set of 12, mobilebayshop.com

MY MOM HAS SEVERAL OF THESE AMBER GLASS TURKEY BOWLS, AND IT’S NOT THANKSGIVING UNTIL THEY COME TO THE TABLE BRIMMING WITH CRANBERRY.

LOVE THIS ISSUE

MORNING MOTIVATION

IT’S HARD TO BELIEVE, BUT HOLIDAY SHOPPING IS UPON US. THIS INSPIRING TOOTHBRUSH WILL BE THE PERFECT STOCKING STUFFER! ASHLAND GALLERY, $8

2

TASTE THE RAINBOW WHO CAN RESIST A CRACKER DIPPED IN A LAYER OF HANDMADE SALTED TOFFEE, COATED WITH DARK CHOCOLATE AND TOPPED WITH RAINBOW SPRINKLES AND SEA SALT? PROVISION, $11

GOBBLE, GOBBLE PRECIOUS SCALLOPED BREAD PLATES DRESS UP ANY HOLIDAY TABLE. CHAPEL FARM COLLECTION, $79 FOR SET OF 4

SMELLS LIKE THE OCEAN A POP ART-LABELED CAN BY RAMON MATHEU ENVELOPS A COCONUT WAX CANDLE MADE WITH BAMBOO AND PALM ESSENTIAL OILS TO SMELL LIKE THE SEA AIR. THE HOLIDAY, $32

PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU

NATURAL DECOR COLORED TAPERS ARE ALL THE RAGE, BUT THESE PINECONESHAPED CANDLES ARE NEXT-LEVEL FOR A FALL CENTERPIECE! WILDFLOWERS, $18 FOR SET OF

Tell us how you really feel ...

PHOTO CONTEST

On the winners of MB’s photo contest as showcased in the September Arts issue

“It’s really hard to pick one favorite.”

- Christian Flynn

“Fantastic! Gorgeous and well-taken photographs.”

- Tracy Landi

FEELING THE LOVE

On September’s feature, “Poetry Slam,” highlighting some of the winners of Mobile Public Library’s yearly contest

“I am writing to thank Mobile Bay Magazine for the excellent coverage of our annual Poetry Slam-a-Rama. Our poetry group members are delighted to see this wonderful article, and the children and parents are as well. Please share my sincere thanks with Ms. Amelia Rose Zimlich; her portrayal of the children with their poems is beautiful. We have been having this program since the early 2000s, and it is heartwarming for me to see this type of coverage.”

- Gert Laffiette

HOME IS WHERE THE HEART IS

On September’s History article, “The Side Hall with Wing – The Ultimate Mobile Townhouse”

“I learned so much reading this article.”

- Eleanor Inge Baker

START YOUR ENGINE

On October’s feature “British Classics,” which paired the latest in fall fashion with locally owned British cars

“The article on British sports cars brought back a lot of memories. I had a Tartan Red 1965 MGB that taught

me how to drift in a curve. Toggle switches, Abarth exhaust, spoke wheels, leaky top and a make-believe heater — what’s not to love? The photography in your magazine is always exceptional. From outdoor scenes to people and places, every shot has such depth. As my cousin Ramekin would often say, ‘That there will bring a twinkle to a glass eye.’”

-Paul “Butch” Gibson

GROWING SEA LEGS

On October’s feature “Last Man on State Street,” which uncovers the identity of Mobile’s mysterious pipe-smoking ghost

where Captain Henry Taylor was traveling from Mobile to Columbus, Mississippi. Thank you for this article — we all love it!”

- Susan Smallwood Walker

HISTORY IN FILM

On September’s feature“Descendant,” the documentary that captures Africatown’s history and hope for the future

“This town has such a strong story.”

- Catherine Partain Fasano

“Gonna have to resubscribe to Netflix in October!”

“I enjoyed the article about Henry Taylor, the State Street ghost. William Smallwood is my great, great-grandfather. William’s first wife, Sallie, died at age 37 and left her husband and four boys behind. I have done extensive research on the Smallwood family. It is awesome to finally know the name of the pipe-smoking sea captain. [I discovered an article from] the Mobile Daily Times, February 2, 1866,  Want to share your thoughts and reactions to this issue? Email maggie@pmtpublishing.com.

- Sharleen Begnaud

AWW, SHUCKS

Thanks for being a reader!

“Reading Mobile Bay Magazine is always a delight. I appreciate your work.”

- Lynn B. Robinson, PhD

AN ICON’S TRANSITION TO FLIGHT / PHOTO BY MARK FOLEY

More Ways to Connect

text by MATTIE NAMAN

mobilebaymag.com

GET FESTIVE

Itching to get in the holiday spirit? Go online for the top 10 festive functions this month and next, including local tree lighting celebrations, Christmas plays, holiday markets, concerts, parades and plenty of activities for the whole family to enjoy. The holidays are just around the corner and we want you to be ready!

TAKE IT OUTSIDE

Fall was made for outdoor dining! We have rounded up our favorite café patios, courtyards and decks perfect for enjoying the crisp November weather while dining al fresco.

PUT A RING ON IT

Just engaged? Share your proposal story, and we’ll feature your engagement online.

GIVE THANKS

Still planning your Thanksgiving menu? Look no further. Our editorial staff has compiled a list of our favorite holiday recipes from local chefs and home cooks. Ranging from classic holiday turkey recipes to local favorites such as oyster stew, your menu is sure to be a crowd-pleaser this year.

Cyber Monday Deals ALL

MONTH LONG!

BEHIND THE SCENES

Connect with us on Instagram to see exclusive behind-the-scenes footage of our November feature photoshoots.

// PHOTO BY SHANE RICE

FAIRHOPE’S TREE LIGHTING CEREMONY

TARRAGON & APPLE GLAZED

THE GIFT OF MOBILE BAY

A subscription to Mobile Bay Magazine is the gift that keeps on giving the whole year. Purchase a 1-year gift subscription for $15 and each additional gift subscription will cost just $10. Scan the QR code above to purchase!

MOBILE BAY SHOP

Our online store is stocked for the holidays with new arrivals and customer favorites. Scan the QR code above to start shopping today! (And make sure you join our email list to receive exclusive offers and special deals.)

RED OR WHITE OUTDOOR PATIO

TURKEY // PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU

We’re not just in print. Find us online, on social media and in your inbox.

text by MB EDITORIAL STAFF

In 2019, Kristen Amy McElhaney ate 223 raw oysters in 50 minutes at Wintzell’s restaurant, breaking the women’s record for the restaurant.

Readers share two Thanksgiving recipes containing a fraction of the amount of bivalve mollusks on page 38.

“What we’re really talking about is a wonderful day set aside on the fourth Thursday of November when no one diets. I mean, why else would they call it Thanksgiving?”

—Erma Bombeck

A Taste of November 223 RAW OYSTERS 1858

BLACK FRIDAY

is not the busiest shopping day of the year. This designation goes to the Saturday before Thanksgiving.

Use our gift guide on page 48 to plan ahead and avoid the crowds.

THE FIRST YEAR THANKSGIVING WAS OBSERVED

AS A HOLIDAY IN ALABAMA

The governors of Alabama, Mississippi, Georgia, and North and South Carolina declared Thursday, November 25, to be a day of Thanksgiving.

ONE THANKFUL BIRD

Each year the Bates family brings a bird named Clyde to the Alabama Governor’s Mansion for the annual pardoning of the turkey.

Helen and Willie Claude Bates received turkey eggs as a wedding gift in 1923 and soon began selling turkeys to neighbors for holiday meals. In 1970, when I-65 opened, so did Bate’s House of Turkey restaurant. Today, the family still raises pastured turkeys in a pecan grove on their 900-acre farm.

THE WORD RESTAURANT IS FRENCH FOR “FOOD THAT RESTORES”

In the decades before the French Revolution, 18th-century Parisian aristocrats sought enlightenment— and to distance themselves from the peasants— by enjoying delicate dishes like restorative bone broths known as bouillon. Restaurateurs served their soups at small cafe tables and offered customers a menu of choices, something quite different from the heavy communal meals commonly served at pubs. Before long, these bouillon shops evolved into the modern restaurants we know and love.

GRAND OPENING

NOVEMBER 15, 1852

The Battle House Hotel opened on Royal Street. Famous guests included Henry Clay, Je erson Davis, Millard Filmore, Stephen Douglas and Oscar Wilde.

Bite of the Bay

In honor of our annual food issue, members of the MB team join our regular monthly contributing food fanatics to share their go-to local dishes.

GRIDDLED PANCAKES AT THE HUMMINGBIRD WAY

“Sunday brunch is my favorite meal and The Hummingbird Way never disappoints. Their griddled pancakes with seasonal fruit, dollops of crème fraiche and warm syrup were light and fufy!”

Elizabeth Gelineau Freelance Photographer

TYLER FLOWERS, Attorney, Cunningham Bounds, LLC

BRAISED BEEF OXTAILS AT SOCU SOUTHERN KITCHEN AND OYSTER BAR

“Mobile prides itself on its unique Southern culture, and SOCU Southern Kitchen and Oyster Bar incorporates that into its menu. I recently had their braised beef oxtails, a great mix of slow-cooked beef made tender and seasoned rice. It is perfectly complemented with cabbage, shaved carrots, bacon and onions. Some Creole pepper mix makes you feel right at home.”

SOCU SOUTHERN KITCHEN AND OYSTER BAR 455 DAUPHIN ST. • 385-4005 EATSOCU.COM

“The Le Grand Benedict at Bistro Saint Emanuel is piled high with Canadian bacon, poached egg and the creamiest hollandaise. Not to mention, the side of country-style potatoes were out of this world!”

Mattie Naman | Digital Editor, Mobile Bay Magazine

SPAIN, President,

OYSTERS AND REDFISH HALF SHELL AT PEARL

“This new renovated restaurant in downtown Fairhope was a must-try for me. For my main dish, I went with the Redfish Half Shell with charred onion salad and a side of brussels sprouts. The redfish, a light white fish, was beautifully prepared with a slightly crusted top — it was so delicious! I couldn’t come and not try the raw oysters that happen to be a local selection; some of the best I’ve had. This will become a favorite spot for sure. I can’t wait to go again.”

PEARL • 334 FAIRHOPE AVE, FAIRHOPE 517-9142 • PEARLFAIRHOPE.COM

P.S. TACO SALAD

“The taco salad at P.S. Taco is my new favorite lunch in downtown Mobile. Served inside a huge crunchy tortlla bowl, this salad is almost enough to serve two people. A bed of mixed greens comes topped with corn, avocado, Jack cheese, mango salsa and your choice of meat and dressing. Chicken and cilantro lime aioli are my go-to combinaton. It’s hearty and favorful, but not too heavy for lunch.”

Abby Parrot Past Digital Editor, Mobile Bay

Grady | Editorial Intern, Mobile Bay Magazine

SHRIMP SCAMPI SANDWICH AT LOCALS

“My husband and I were searching for a place to take my mother-in-law for Sunday lunch in Fairhope and chose Locals. We listened to relaxing live music on the outdoor patio as we ordered. I chose the shrimp scampi sandwich and was not disappointed. It was filled with large Gulf shrimp sauteed in garlic, butter and fresh basil. Served on focaccia on top of arugula with garlic aioli, it was both light and delicious!”

LOCALS • 312 FAIRHOPE AVE, FAIRHOPE 517-7225 • LOCALSBURGER.COM

“I look forward to the chicken balsamic toast at POST topped with spinach and alfredo sauce. The creaminess of the alfredo is tempered with the tang of the balsamic glaze drizzle, giving it a flavorful punch while staying light.”

MARTIN,

HEN PECKED PANINI

AT TWO SISTERS BAKERY & DELI

“If you closed your eyes and picked a panini at random in this Eastern Shore eatery, you would not be disappointed. However, there is one in particular that proves that it’s the details that make for a delicious dish. The Hen Pecked features juicy sliced chicken breast smothered in Havarti cheese, mango chutney and a dose of hot pickled peppers: a perfect trio of savory, sweet and spicy!”

TWO SISTERS BAKERY & DELI • 19452 SCENIC HWY 98, FAIRHOPE • 517-0622

TWOSISTERSBAKERYDELI.COM

“My favorite is the Bama Roll at Siam Thai Cuisine because it contains an exquisite flavor of salmon. Its sushi melts in your mouth, and the richness of the cream cheese complements the avocado and fish.”

Brianna

“Located in downtown Fairhope, Camellia Cafe has an intimate, yet elegant atmosphere. Everything is delicious, but the entrée that I always return for is the hickory-grilled fish. The hickory wood imbues the fish of the day with a smoky flavor, balanced perfectly with a lemon butter sauce and colorful vegetables.”

PHILIP

Theology teacher, St. Michael Catholic High School

LINDA JENSEN, Juvenile Court Referee, Mobile County

Amelia Rose Zimlich | Editorial Assistant, Mobile Bay Magazine

MOLLY

Baldwin County Trailblazers

Marissa Deal | Editorial Assistant, Mobile Bay Magazine

Rosemarino

by MAGGIE LACEY

by ELIZABETH GELINEAU

MAKES 1 COCKTAIL

Beautiful dried citrus wheels inspired this tart fall cocktail that is balanced by savory, woody rosemary and just a hint of sea salt. The bold color and crisp bite will brighten up any holiday gathering. And – a welcome bonus – it is easy to make.

2 ounces fresh ruby red grapefruit juice

1 1/2 ounces vodka

1/2 small lemon, juiced 1/4 ounce agave syrup

2 small sprigs of rosemary dash of sea salt dried grapefruit wheel, for garnish

1. Fill a small cocktail shaker with ice. Pour in the grapefruit juice, vodka, lemon juice and agave. Gently crush one rosemary sprig between your fingers and add to the shaker along with a dash of salt. Put on the lid and shake vigorously for about 20 seconds. Strain into a martini glass and garnish with a dried grapefruit wheel and remaining sprig of rosemary. Serve immediately.

Dehydrated grapefruit slices by Pink House Alchemy, $21 PROVISION, 100 N SECTION ST., FAIRHOPE, 251-850-5004

Hint: They sell dried lemons, limes and oranges, too! The cocktail possibilities are endless.

recipe

photo

Ferus by the Bay

text by AMELIA ROSE ZIMLICH • photos by ELIZABETH GELINEAU

Ahistoric home may be an unconventional place to house a brewery. But Ferus by the Bay makes it look like an obvious choice.

To owner Coby Lake, who lived across the street from the Irwin-Sandoz-Jones house, it was. Soon, Lake’s business partner, Alan Alford, moved from Birmingham to Fairhope with his wife Kathy to manage the brewery, which opened in May as the third Ferus location and first in south Alabama.

Ferus by the Bay is a more upscale iteration of the Ferus breweries based in Birmingham and Trussville. Besides beverages, finer food and seasonal items, weekend specials are on hand. But don’t let this fool you; Ferus has a wild side — literally.

“‘Ferus’ is Latin for ‘feral,’” Alford says. “It’s a play off the wild yeast we use in the open fermentation process for our beers.” This theme is also present in the interior décor created by Kate Hartman Interiors. Warm green walls bring the spirit of nature indoors, and antlers, a key part of Ferus’ branding, are prominent, even adorning the beer tap handles. It all works well against the historic elements present in the 1921 home-turned-brewery.

General contractor J.R. Robinson Construction Co. is the one to thank for the preservation.

Samuel Mcmonigal is the chef and mastermind behind the Fairhope menu. Having previously worked at the first two locations, his menu consists of trusty Ferus staples, but he also added Fairhope-specific dishes, all of which pair well with one of the many beers on tap brewed at the Birmingham production facility. Locals have been quick to embrace the hot veggie plate. The shrimp and grits, with a kick of Cajun flavor, were crafted specifically for the Bay clientele. Lest it forgets its roots, Ferus also serves traditional brewery fare, including its signature Smashburger and loaded fries topped with house-made beer cheddar sauce.

“One of my favorite things to say is that food doesn’t have to be complicated to be good,” says Mcmonigal. “Food is kind of like music: you can’t do something new, but you can take something you know and do it really well.”

With its wide-ranging menu and friendly atmosphere, Ferus by the Bay is clearly doing just that on the corner of Church Street and De La Mare Avenue. MB

Ferus by the Bay • 51 S Church St., Fairhope • 928-9014 • ferusbythebay.com • 11 a.m. - 9 p.m. Tu - Th, 11 a.m. - 10 p.m. Fr - Sat, 11 a.m. - 8 p.m. Sun

[ ON THE MENU ]

SHRIMP AND GRITS

Sauteed shrimp and smoked sausage are paired with the holy trinity and served over bourbon cheddar grits with blackened butter cream sauce. This is a dish you don’t want to miss.

PIMENTO CHEESE

House-made pimento cheese is given a kick from a generous helping of sweet and spicy pepper jelly. Crispy fried pita chips make this dish the perfect appetizer.

HOT VEGGIE PLATE

Loaded with green beans, Brussels sprouts, vegetable confetti and roasted red potatoes with garlic and herbs, this plate is topped with a drizzle of red pepper aioli to complete the Fairhope favorite.

SMASHBURGER

Hold on tight! This giant burger is loaded with double patties, American cheese, pickles, tomato, lettuce and red onion on a toasted Brioche bun.

LOADED BEER CHEESE FRIES

Crispy fries are doused in a bechamel beer cheese sauce and sprinkled with bacon, sour cream and green onions. Grab a beer and you’re all set.

HOT VEGGIE PLATE

SHRIMP AND GRITS

Deeply traditional and delightfully calorific, the meat and three reflects the resourcefulness and creativity of Southern cooks during hard times.

text by MARISSA DEAL

All Hail the Meat and Three It’s

noon at Cheryl’s Cafe in Spanish Fort and the chalkboard already has erasure marks. Pork chops are gone. No need to fret, however, there are still many options on the board. Such is the nature of the meat and three, where food options are available until they are sold out and early birds are rewarded with first dibs on the most popular items. Cheryl’s is bustling with customers of all sorts: workers in their paint-stained bibs and heavy boots, office workers in button-down shirts and ties, ponytailed moms in leggings and tennis shoes, and older ladies with white hair perfectly coiffed and lipstick meticulously applied. Everyone is greeted warmly here. Friendly servers informally shout, “Ya’ll come in! Sit wherever you like!” The atmosphere buzzes with conversation and the good cheer that comes from folks gathered for a satisfying meal.

Open only for weekday lunches, Cheryl’s is your classic meat and three restaurant.

The chalkboard spells out daily specials, including several protein options – pick one – and a choice of sides of the starchy and veggie varieties – pick three. The combo creates a lunch fit for a hard day of manual labor, a stretch at the office, or a leisurely conversation with friends. Everything is made from scratch, no corners cut. And you can tell it with every bite.

More democratic than a blue plate special, where there is one fixed entrée and predetermined side dishes for the day, and less of a free-for-all than an all-you-can-eat buffet, the meat and three is a customizable Southern tradition. While food histori-

CHECK THE CHALKBOARDS

Cheryl’s Cafe 6580 Spanish Fort Blvd., Spanish Fort

The Iron Skillet 19530 North 3rd St., Citronelle

Mama’s on Dauphin 220 Dauphin St., #2718, Mobile

Mary’s Southern Cooking 3011 Springhill Ave., Mobile

The Noble South 203 Dauphin St., Mobile Sugar Kettle 1015 Daphne Ave., Daphne

THE IRON SKILLET / PHOTO BY ELIZABETH GELINEAU

ans trace the origin of the meat and three to Nashville, variations can be found all over the South. The Bay area is no exception.

The idea of a hearty midday meal began with farmers and laborers in rural areas needing a heavy, home-cooked lunch to fuel their physically intense days. In time, the notion migrated into more urban areas and became a way for workers and city dwellers to have an affordable lunch served quickly, providing a taste of home before heading back to the office or the factory.

The signature vegetable sides reflect the eating patterns of rural farmers, who tended to eat whatever was in season. Squash casserole and field peas appear in June and July; stewed greens make their debut in the winter months. That said, there is no shame in “doctoring up” a can of green beans with some bacon drippings or using dried black-eyed peas. After all, canning and drying foods to eat later are parts of the farming tradition as well. Lest the variety of vegetables available make you think that this is a low-calorie deal, it’s not unusual for macaroni and cheese, chicken and dumplings or dressing to count as vegetables. And, if you weren’t already sold, who doesn’t want to live in a world where mac and cheese is a vegetable?

And while the meat and three is most often a down-home affair, it has had a resurgence in recent years, too. Across the Bay from Cheryl’s, patrons of The Noble South, in downtown Mobile, gather for more high-end fare. Light streaks in from the windows above the exposed brick walls. A long, well-stocked bar churns out craft cocktails to complement the dishes. Here, the service is friendly and helpful, but with a bit more formality to match the atmosphere. Diners, mostly business professionals and foodies, dine on a meat and three which features catfish, pork chops, chicken thighs and crab étouffée with sides of black-eyed peas, collard greens, Brussels sprouts, and, of course, macaroni and cheese. The Noble South prides

itself on fresh produce and meats from local sources, and promises unique flavor combinations, complex seasonings and inventive approaches. The black-eyed peas, for example, are pickled. It’s traditional Southern food — elevated.

Head west from Downtown and you’ll hit Mary’s Southern Cooking, where a line forms out the door come lunchtime. One patron describes it as “a small place with big flavors.” At this low-key establishment in a former Chinese restaurant, the entrees are served cafeteria-style with generous portions ladled into Styrofoam containers. This proves convenient since, with this much food, there’s bound to be leftovers. On Fridays, one can find anything from lasagna to hog maws, ox tails to fried fish. Tuesdays, among the many choices, are turkey necks and Tetrazzini. Mary’s Southern Cooking is the kind of eatery where you’ll find the foods that grandmaw used to make. Sundays after church are so busy, Mary has to close Saturdays and Mondays to give the staff a rest.

The impact of African American food traditions on the types of food served in a meat and three cannot be understated. Enslaved Africans brought with them foods such as rice, okra, and greens. They grew these foods in small gardens to supplement their diets. Typically, enslaved people would receive only small rations of meat, most often pork, which they used to season vegetables. Often, they would only be

given the parts of a pig that were seen as less desirable such as ears, tails, hocks or feet. They learned through trial and error how to prepare these cuts in a flavorful, appetizing way. Mary’s Southern Cooking is one of the only restaurants in the Port City that still offers this cherished fare.

African Americans weren’t the only ones creating something delectable out of nothing. These practices were employed by poor, rural southerners of every race and heritage as well. Families had to make the most of food that was affordable and available. Ingenuity, born of poverty, created a new cuisine.

The meat and three is an embodiment of all of these cooking traditions on one plate, washed down with a glass of sweet tea and finished off with dessert.

Speaking of dessert, no meat and three dish is complete without it. Cakes: coconut, Italian crème, pound cake, caramel or chocolate layer. Pies: pecan to Snickers to sweet potato. And then there’s the banana pudding. Always banana pudding. Homemade, of course. But we will forgive a store-bought crust or a heaping swoosh of Cool-Whip across the top. After all, the essence of a meat and three is making the best of the ingredients that are available. It is about saying, yes, cheese is a vegetable. It’s about choosing your own culinary adventure. And it’s about bringing friends, family or coworkers to the table, and filling up. MB

PASTA AMORE

A honeymoon trip of a lifetime and a zeal for all things food and wine led to an innovative and creative new business for one Bay-area native.

text by MARISSA DEAL • photos by ELIZABETH GELINEAU

Anna Cowart fell in love on her honeymoon. Rather, she fell in love with making pasta. Cowart, who grew up in Bay Minette and Spanish Fort, had never been to Europe but dreamed of traveling to Italy. When she and her husband, Michael, got married in January, they decided to wait until summer so they could enjoy perfect weather during their two-week honeymoon through Rome, Tuscany, Florence and Lake Como. The entire trip, Cowart says, “felt like a food tour.”

The couple enjoyed pasta in Rome that contained “a waterfall of truffle,” drank wine at vineyards and sampled the spicy kick that comes from pure extra virgin olive oil in Tuscany. The food and wine-loving couple found themselves entranced with the cuisine and the rolling hills of Italian wine country. The trip culminated in a pasta-making class in Florence where she and Michael learned to make homemade pasta, rolling out dough and shaping it, employing the use of olive oil and fresh produce to create a delectable three-course meal. There, they learned to make panzanella, Bolognese, and ravioli, followed by panna cotta for dessert. The couple relished the process of cooking and eating the result of their efforts.

Upon returning home, Cowart, a speech and language pathologist at Springhill Medical Center, furthered her knowledge of food and wine as a pastime, earning her sommelier certificate and perfecting her recipes. She post-

ed photos of the dishes she prepared, along with her recipes on Instagram with no real expectation of anything beyond a few likes. The posts instantly drew attention, and family and friends started asking Cowart to host wine dinners for them. “When I started The Cowart Kitchen on Instagram,” she says, “I had no intention of turning it into a business. I’m thinking, ‘wow, people want to pay me to feed them and talk about wine?’ The whole purpose of The Cowart Kitchen fully came to light.”

Now, she hosts wine dinners for clients in their own homes, creating fresh food and accompanying it with carefully selected wine pairings.

An appreciation of food and wine has always been in Cowart’s blood. Her family taught her how to make a roux at an early age; she has always delighted in helping in the kitchen. Her grandfa-

In fact, she and Michael met on a blind date over two bottles of wine and a cheeseboard shared at Red and White in Mobile. The weather was bad, and the power went out in downtown Mobile, so the pair ended up taking shelter at the restaurant. She describes it as love at first sight.

“I knew I was in love,” she says dramatically.

Now the couple lives in Ravine Woods in a home that they have completely renovated over the last year. She

ther has a fondness for cooking and has amassed a large folio of recipes, while her father boasts an impressive wine collection. “I have been known to steal a few bottles when I’m there for a visit. Sorry, mom and dad,” she laughs.

served as the contractor for the project, bringing new life to a structure that had not been updated since the 1960s. They converted the drab wood kitchen into a bright white, inviting space with modern appliances.

“WHEN I STARTED THE COWART KITCHEN ON INSTAGRAM, I HAD NO INTENTION OF TURNING IT INTO A BUSINESS. I’M THINKING, ‘WOW, PEOPLE WANT TO PAY ME TO FEED THEM AND TALK ABOUT WINE ?’”

Cowart’s evolution in the kitchen hasn’t always gone perfectly, and she is not afraid to improvise when needed. She had a failed attempt at growing her own herb garden. “It just didn’t work out,” she says. “It all died when we didn’t get rain for six straight weeks. Everyone thinks they can grow an herb garden, but it is so much work.” And, while she always prepares dishes from scratch for The Cowart Kitchen — “fresh pasta is softer and more natural” — at home, she sometimes substitutes refrigerated pasta from Fresh Market after a busy day at the hospital. She was also able to find a creative second use for her wine bottles, using them to roll out her pasta when she discovered she didn’t have a rolling pin.

“My biggest tip,” she says when asked how to manage cooking for a large group, “is to relax and enjoy the process. Drink wine while you cook! Most recipes are never required to be exact. Substitute and make changes however you want to.”

Cowart has found a great sense of purpose in Cowart Kitchen and in growing her business. Her approach to serving a crowd is a lesson to any home cook navigating holiday entertaining. “The most important thing to keep in mind is that everyone seated at the table is there to have fun and fun is contagious,” she explains. “If I’m relaxed and having fun, I set the stage for an enjoyable experience. Thankfully, this is truly my passion, and I’m in my element when I’m serving these dinners.” MB

HOMEMADE PASTA

SERVES 6

2 cups all-purpose flour

3 eggs

1⁄2 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1. Add the flour to a medium bowl and create a small well in the center. Crack the eggs into the flour and use a fork to break them up. Add the olive oil and mix with the fork until almost combined.

2. Dust your countertop with flour. Turn the dough out on to the floured surface and use your hands to form it into a ball. At this point it should feel like playdough. If it’s too wet and sticky add more flour. If it’s hard and crumbly, and having trouble staying in a ball, add 1/2 teaspoon of olive oil.

3. Using the heel of your palm of your dominant hand, press and stretch the dough away from you. It helps to use the fingertips of your other hand to hold the end of the dough closest to you in place. Once stretched, roll the far end of the dough back towards you. Flip the dough over so the bottom seam is on top and rotate 90 degrees so the dough is now vertical. Repeat the kneading process: press and stretch, roll, face seam upwards and rotate. Do this until you can press your fingertip into the roll and it bounces back without leaving a deep indentation.

4. Tightly wrap the ball of dough with plastic wrap and allow it to rest for 30 minutes. Use this time to work on your sauces or fillings. Once the dough has rested, unwrap and cut into 4 equal pieces. Working one piece at a time, use a rolling pin to flatten the dough. Then flour your pasta maker and place the end of the dough into the roller set on the widest setting. Roll out your dough, being careful not to let the dough fold over itself underneath the roller (use your left hand to gently stretch it away from the pasta maker as you use your right hand to crank). Continue this process, decreasing the width setting each time, until desired thickness is achieved.

Fettuccine and Linguine

Once you have a long fat piece of dough, crank the dough through the noodle roller accessory and then use your fnger to toss the noodles in a litle four before settng to the side. This gives them a nice shape and prevents stcking. You may want to cut the long, fat piece of dough in half prior to running it through the noodle roller in order to more easily handle it. Boil the pasta in salted water for about 3 minutes.

Ravioli

Use a cuter to form your shape, or invert a small bowl on the dough and cut around the edge using a sharp knife. Take a small amount of flling, being careful not to overfll, and place in the center of the dough round. Dip your fnger in some water and run it around the edge of half of the dough round. Fold the dough in half, covering the flling, and pinch the dough to seal. Set aside on a foured board or work surface untl you have made all the ravioli. Boil the pasta in salted water for about 3 minutes.

Tortellini

Follow instructons for ravioli up untl cooking, being extra careful not to overfll the pasta. Then take the two corners and bring them together, using just a tny touch of extra water to seal the ends together. Set aside on a foured board or work surface untl you have made all the tortellini. Boil the pasta in salted water for about 3 minutes.

For the best result, make the pasta the same day you wish to eat it. However, you can make the dough and store the plastc wrapped ball in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. Formed and fnished pasta should be tossed in extra four and stored in an airtght container in the refrigerator for up to 1 or 2 days.

COWART MAKES HOMEMADE RAVIOLI

IN HER KITCHEN

Use a fork to break up the eggs

Prepare the dough on a floured surface

Run the flattened dough through the pasta maker

Fill the raviolii with the prepared mixture of cheese, lobster and spices

The ravioli is ready to add to boiling, salted water

“IT’S A LITTLE TIME-CONSUMING TO MAKE YOUR OWN PASTA BUT IT’S REALLY REWARDING, ESPECIALLY IF YOU DO IT WITH YOUR SPOUSE OR KIDS FOR A FUN NIGHT TOGETHER IN THE KITCHEN. AND IT TASTES SO MUCH BETTER THAN THE BOXED STUFF!”

BEEF BOLOGNESE

SERVES 6-8

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup yellow onion, diced

1 cup carrot, diced

1 cup celery, diced

2 cloves of garlic, minced salt and pepper, to taste

3⁄4 cup dry red wine

1 pound ground beef

1 28-ounce can puréed tomatoes

2 tablespoons tomato paste

1⁄3 cup whole milk

1 teaspoon dried basil

2 bay leaves

4 cups cooked linguini pasta

1. Heat olive oil in a large sauté pan. Add onion, carrot, celery, garlic and a pinch of salt and pepper. Let cook for about 7 minutes, or until the onion is translucent and the carrot and celery are starting to soften. Add red wine and use a spoon to scrape any brown bits from the bottom of the pan. Let simmer for about 5 minutes, allowing it to just slightly thicken. Add ground beef and season with more salt and pepper. Once the meat is browned and almost cooked through, add the pureed tomatoes, tomato paste, milk, basil and bay leaves. Stir to fully combine. Cover and let simmer for at least 20 minutes. Taste and season with more salt and pepper, if needed.

2. Arrange cooked linguini pasta on serving dishes. Top with sauce and serve.

RICOTTA AND HERB TORTELLINI

RICOTTA & HERB TORTELLINI WITH CRISPY PROSCIUTTO

SERVES 6-8

2 cup ricotta cheese

2 cups freshly grated Parmesan

1 tablespoon fresh parsley, minced

1 tablespoon fresh basil, minced

1 tablespoon fresh oregano, minced

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon pepper

1⁄2 - 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes, to taste prepared pasta dough

1 3-ounce package sliced prosciutto

2 tablespoons truffle oil

2 tablespoons lemon zest Chopped fresh basil, parmesan shavings and fresh cracked pepper, for garnish

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a small bowl, combine all ingredients up to red pepper flakes. Follow tortellini instructions on page 26 to form and cook pasta. Then set uncooked tortellini aside.

2. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Separate each slice of prosciutto and curl up to form a small nest. Place on prepared pan and bake for 10 minutes. Remove from oven and set each prosciutto nest on a paper towel to remove excess fat.

3. Arrange prepared and boiled tortellini on serving dishes. Top each serving with the pieces of prosciutto. Drizzle with truffle oil, a pinch of lemon zest, fresh Parmesan shavings, and a pinch of fresh cracked pepper.

LOBSTER RAVIOLI WITH SAFFRON CREAM SAUCE

SERVES 6-8

4 lobster tails

4 cloves of garlic, minced 2 cups ricotta cheese

1 cup freshly grated asiago cheese

4 teaspoons lemon zest

1⁄2 teaspoon salt

1⁄2 teaspoon pepper prepared pasta dough 4 tablespoons butter 2 shallots, thinly sliced

2 cups dry white wine

4 cups heavy cream large pinch of saffron juice of 1 lemon 1 teaspoon salt

1⁄2 teaspoon pepper

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and add lobster tails. Cook for 1 minute per ounce. Remove and set aside to cool.

2. In a large mixing bowl, add garlic, ricotta, Asiago, lemon zest, salt and pepper. Stir to mix well.

3. Set one lobster tail on a cutting board and then use a large, sharp knife to cut down the center of the shell. Reach in and pull out all the meat. Roughly chop the lobster meat and add to the filling, mixing well. Follow ravioli instructions on page 26 to form and cook pasta.

4. Melt butter in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add shallot and cook until translucent and soft, about 5 minutes. Pour in wine and use a spatula to scrape any bits stuck to the bottom of the pan. Let simmer for about 5 minutes, then add heavy cream, saffron, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Return to a low simmer for another 7-10 minutes, until the sauce is slightly thick and creamy.

5. Arrange prepared and boiled ravioli on serving dishes. Top with sauce and serve.

PAIRING WINE WITH PASTA

WITH MOBILE’S ANNA COWART

Beef Bolognese with Les Gentilhommes, Macon-Peronne, France

2020

This wine is a Tuscan blend, also known as “Super Tuscans.” They typically contain a combinaton of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and some others. This partcular wine contains mostly Montepulciano (cousin of Sangiovese), Cabernet Sauvignon, and Sangiovese. The high acidity of the Sangiovese, as well as the Montepulciano in this case, can stand up to the acidic tomato base, while the Cabernet compliments the beef that is in the sauce. Other great pairings: Chiant Classico, Primitvo or Pinot Noir.

Ricotta and herb tortellini with Paitin di PasqueroElia, ‘Serra,’ Barbera d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy 2020

This wine light, acidic and fruity. It is perfect for salty meats and cheeses, as it works as a palate cleanser between bites and the acidity brightens the favors of the food. You will fnd red fruit aromas, like cherry and raspberry, and sof tannins. It’s an easy drinker and will pair well with a variety of foods. Other great pairings: Sangiovese, sparkling wine or Sauvignon Blanc.

Lobster ravioli with Les Gentilhommes, Macon-Peronne, France 2020

This white Burgundy, also known as Bourgogne, is top ter in the world of Chardonnay. The Chardonnay grape varietal, which is grown all over the world, originated from the Burgundy wine region in France. Even if you don’t love a Californian Chardonnay, give the French a try. Chardonnay is very malleable to wine-making practces and regions, and no two producers will give you the same experience. I enjoy this pairing for lobster ravioli because the minerality of the wine suits the natural sweetness of the lobster. Hints of honey and apple compliment the decadent ravioli. Other great pairings: Gruner Vetliner or Pinot Grigo.

“MY BIGGEST TIP IS TO RELAX AND ENJOY THE PROCESS. DRINK WINE WHILE YOU COOK! MOST RECIPES ARE NEVER REQUIRED TO BE EXACT. SUBSTITUTE AND MAKE CHANGES HOWEVER YOU WANT TO.”

BEEF BOLOGNESE

The Cowart’s honeymoon cooking class in Tuscany sparked a love for fresh pasta.

LOBSTER RAVIOLI WITH SAFFRON CREAM SAUCE

Mobile’s Colonial Foodways

How six cultures influenced Mobile’s culinary traditions, shaping the unique cuisine we enjoy today.

text by JILL CLAIR GENTRY

Every community has been shaped by the traditions and habits surrounding the growing, harvesting, storing, preparation and enjoyment of food. Food and the practices connected to it — “foodways” as historians and anthropologists call it — are an essential part of every culture on Earth.

“The history of food is the history of people,” says Meg McCrummen Fowler, director of the History Museum of Mobile. “We learn how they moved, how they survived and especially how they interacted with other people.”

In Mobile, six cultures primarily shaped our foodways, each making their mark on the region over the past 300 years. The Bay area’s bounty of natural resources, paired with enduring culinary customs from Native American, French, British, Spanish, American and African American cultures, have combined to create the unique food culture we enjoy today.

“Mobile’s foodways have always been different from other port cities on the East Coast,” Fowler says. “Those cities didn’t have as much diversity in their influences. Food profoundly links us to the experiences of Colonial Mobilians in a way that few other things can.”

Earlier this year, the staff of the History Museum of Mobile sourced dozens of historical recipes and found that, while Mobile and the surrounding area would be hardly recognizable to residents during its founding in 1702, some of the recipes for our regional staples haven’t changed very much.

So, the next time you’re enjoying bread pudding for dessert or spending hours making a pot of seafood gumbo for a special occasion, savor your connection with Mobile’s unique history, which happens to be delicious.

Native American

When the French settled Mobile in 1702, Native Americans known as the Mobile Tribe were living in South Alabama. Historians believe the French had a mutually beneficial relationship with the tribe, trading items such as nails,

knives and guns for food and instruction about agricultural practices. Without the native Mobilians, it is unlikely the French colony would have survived.

One technique the Native Americans shared with the European settlers was the concept of companion planting, which involved planting corn, squash and climbing beans (known as “the three sisters”) together. Each of these plants helped the others survive, ensuring the harvest, and their produce formed the base of a stew called “msickquatash,” known today as succotash.

Above “The Kitchen,” Willem Joseph Laquy, c. 1760 - 1771. IMAGE COURTESY THE RIJKSMUSEUM

French (1702-1763)

French cooking techniques applied to ingredients such as fish and oysters harvested from Mobile Bay have been a constant in our region. Diners who feast on fried seafood at restaurants along the Causeway may not realize it, but much of the food on their plates has been enjoyed by inhabitants of Mobile for more than 300 years.

A recipe for fried oysters found in “The Professed Cook,” an 18th-century English translation of a popular French cookbook, instructs the cook to “marinate some large oysters with vinegar, chopped sweet herbs, pepper; drain them and dip in a thick batter to fry; serve with fresh parsley.” Today, we often marinate oysters in tangy buttermilk and coat them in a cornmeal batter before frying.

British (1763-1780)

The Port City became part of British West Florida in 1763 after Britain’s victory over France in the French and Indian War. When the American Revolution began in 1776, the Patriots invited East and West Florida to join their cause, but the inhabitants of these two colonies already struggled to meet their basic needs and chose to remain loyal to Britain.

Bread pudding, a staple on dessert menus along the Gulf Coast, originated in Europe and has been popular in Britain since the 13th century. Rather than throwing out stale bread, poor cooks would dip it in a liquid with other flavorings and ingredients and bake or boil it into a pudding to reduce food waste. Puddings could be sweet or savory.

Early British colonists brought puddings to America. The savory types were more popular at first, but Colonial Americans eventually began to prefer them sweet.

Subdued versions of bread pudding, now a decadent and sweet dessert, are included in several 18th-century cookbooks

Spanish (1780-1813)

Spain declared war on Britain in 1779, and the Spanish flag began flying over Mobile in 1780. Of course, Spaniards had been in the Americas since the 15th century, beginning with the arrival of Christopher Columbus in the Caribbean in 1492. So their influence was not new. As the Spanish colonized indigenous cultures in the Americas, they also imposed their way of eating, which they considered superior to that of the indigenous population. Spanish settlers brought livestock to North America, as well as oranges, olives, peaches, corn and wheat.

Early Spanish Americans likely consumed empanadas, and they are still enjoyed all over the United States. In Spanish, the word empanada comes from the word “empanar,” which means “to wrap or coat in bread.” Food wrapped in a crust was portable and remained fresh longer, essential in a world without refrigeration.

American (began 1813)

Mobile became part of the United States of America in 1813 during the War of 1812 when 1,000 men invaded Mobile and took the city without a struggle. Southern Americans in the 19th century ate what was locally available to them — rice, game meat, preserved meats and seasonal vegetables such as corn and squash.

Preserved pork was a necessity, as fresh meat spoiled quickly.

“Fresh meat was a rarity and an impracticality,” Fowler says. “Incorporating meat into one’s diet was a challenge. The best way to do it was to preserve meat with lots of salt. Salt pork became an important part of people’s diets.”

Today, we don’t rely on preserved pork for practical reasons, but those preservation techniques still influence the way we consume pork. Smoked sausage is popular nationwide, but in South Alabama, we’re particularly fond of a particular brand. Conecuh Sausage originated in Evergreen, 92 miles north of Mobile, when a man

named Henry Sessions saw a need for frozen storage in an era before freezers were common in homes. Sessions opened Sessions Quick Freeze in 1947. Customers brought their pigs and cattle to be slaughtered and could rent meat lockers to store their meat. The Sessions family also made hickory smoked sausage on-site, which became incredibly popular in the Southeast. The freezer business didn’t last, but Conecuh Sausage remains an important part of South Alabama’s food culture.

African American Mobile’s foodways are also deeply influenced by the cuisine of the African American community. Beginning in 1707, enslaved Africans were brought to the region, and Mobile was infamously the 1860 destination of the Clotilda, the last illegal slave ship to land on American soil — 52 years after the international slave trade was outlawed. Descendants of the 110 Africans who survived the voyage maintained their African cultures and established the tight-knit community of Africatown.

Enslaved people in America passed down West African food traditions to their descendants, who adapted to the harsh conditions and a limited food supply, going on to powerfully influence American cuisine. African American cooks combined their own techniques with the culinary preferences of those they were forced to feed, creating a unique fusion of African and European cooking through the ingredients used and various preparation methods.

Gumbo, which is ubiquitous on Gulf Coast restaurant menus and in regional cookbooks, is literally a melting pot of many of the cultures that have influenced our region. Although the exact origins of gumbo are murky, it’s safe to say the okra-based stew wouldn’t exist without the adaptive genius of African American cooks. West Africans brought okra to the United States, which served as the stew’s thickening agent (“gumbo” comes from the West African word for okra, “ki ngombo”). Choctaw Indians introduced filé powder as an alternate thickener, and the roux was adopted from French cuisine. MB

by HALLIE KING portrait by ELIZABETH GELINEAU

text

iIf you’ve seen a cake created by Nour Hasan at a wedding, birthday or other celebration, chances are it is ingrained in your memory for not only being strikingly beautiful but also for being unlike any confection you’ve ever seen. Her business, Sukar Bakes, named for the Arabic noun meaning sugar, is notable for breathtaking hand-painted floral buttercream cakes and stunning French macarons. “I typically avoid getting my inspiration from another cake artist and challenge myself to be creative and unique” says Hasan. The innovative baker sat down with MB to talk all things behind the craft of cake and, as a special treat, shared her signature buttercream for readers to recreate in their own kitchens.

When did you begin baking?

I’ve always had a passion for baking and food, and I have a degree in nutrition. I especially enjoy baking and decorating, and I began experimenting more when I had my firstborn 13 years ago. I recall a video of my little one recording me in the kitchen with his tiny hands, shouting,

“Mommy is the greatest baker in the world!” while I was decorating his birthday cake. It never occurred to me at that moment that it was the first step toward where I am today.

During the COVID-19 lockdown, a friend asked me to make her daughter a cake. I hesitated, but decided to take her offer, which was my first-ever order. A few months later, I was drowning in requests.

What continues to inspire you?

I feel a great joy in combining art and sweets. Every cake I create brings me unique satisfaction, knowing I am a part of the happiness or celebration of my cus-

tomers. With every cake, I felt like I was unlocking a piece of me, a piece of who I am as a baker, an artist and a mother.

I have been referred to as “Sukar” several times as my first name. With no doubt at all, I adore it and never correct it. “Sukar” is “sugar” in English, and can be used in some Arabic dialects to mean “sweetheart.” This simple ingredient name represents my cultural fusion in every aspect of my baking and artistry.

Where do your design ideas originate?

Inspiration comes from anywhere. Ceramic art, paintings and textiles. I experiment with many techniques – edible decorating mediums from rice paper to fondant. Recently, I have enjoyed working with wafer paper. It’s edible with potato starch as its main ingredient. This wafer paper can be treated like regular paper, and you can sculpt and fold it to create three-dimensional art.

What is your favorite sweets to eat?

Cake scraps! Who doesn’t like cake scraps? They are every baker’s snack, lunch and flavor tester.

What’s your best cake?

That’s yet to come. I know it sounds very cliche, but I believe with practice and more knowledge, I will be setting the bar higher and higher with every order. My favorite is every single one I create until the next one.

How did you discover the palette knife technique that wins such accolades?

I am the youngest child of two artists in two different fields. Growing up, I witnessed and absorbed their craftsmanship, techniques and talent. I remember sitting from afar, watching them doing their magic, and always wondering what my gift would be.

The first time I recall playing with a palette knife was a few months after I started taking orders. I had an “aha” moment when I began to feel comfortable using it. This tool has become my friend, and I hope to create my own palette knife one day, with unique shapes that allow you to create beautiful floral and greenery finishes.

Any last words of wisdom?

Adore what you do and always be positive when something goes wrong. My favorite floral buttercream cake, my mostliked cake on social media, is a product of many failures.

To help kick-start your success, try decorating your next cake with Hasan’s buttercream recipe, which she uses for all palette knife cakes. “This recipe is the foundation of all palette knife buttercream,” she says. “It has the best texture and consistency you need.” You, too, can become a master caker with a little help and a lot of practice! MB

Sukar Bakes Swiss Meringue Buttercream

YIELDS 6 CUPS

300 grams fresh egg whites (from approximately 10 eggs)

500 grams granulated sugar (approximately 2 ½ cups) 1/2 teaspoon sea salt

600 grams unsalted butter, softened at room temperature (approximately 5 1/4 sticks)

1. Using vinegar, clean the bowl of a stand mixer, a whisk and stand mixer whisk. This will help remove traces of fat to achieve the proper meringue consistency without deflating.

2. Place egg whites in the cleaned bowl, then add sugar and salt.

3. Place the bowl over a pot of simmering water and whisk ingredients to combine. Whisk constantly until the mixture reaches 160 degrees on a candy thermometer. This temperature will pasteurize the eggs, making them safe to consume in the buttercream.

4. Remove the bowl from the heat and place on the base of a stand mixer fitted with the cleaned whisk attachment. Whip on high for 15 minutes. The mixture should have a fluffy consistency, and the bowl should be cool to the touch.

5. With the mixer running, gradually add butter in small pieces to avoid deflating the meringue.

6. Switch to a paddle attachment and continue beating buttercream on low speed for another 15 minutes, until smooth and silky. Patience is the secret to a smooth consistency perfect for palette knife decorating. Keep the paddle attachment beating on low for at least the full 15 minutes for optimal results.

text by AUDREY ATKINS MCDONALD • photos by ELIZABETH GELINEAU

Most of us think of Thanksgiving as a long-abiding tradition. After all, the first record of this ritual was more than 400 years ago. It’s just something Americans always celebrate, right?

Not exactly. The history is complicated… at least for Southerners. In fact, during the antebellum period, many Southerners resisted the holiday outright, considering it an act of Northern aggression.

“In the 1840s, part of the resistance [to Thanksgiving] was that a lot of white Southerners thought that it was going to conflict with the other religious holiday, Christmas. But when you get to the 1850s, things get really tense between the North and the South, both in politics and society,” says Victoria E. Ott, Ph.D., James A. Wood Professor of American History at Birmingham-Southern College and author of “Confederate Daughters: Coming of Age during the Civil War.” “They thought that [Northerners] were infiltrating the South with their antislavery values, and so the resistance to Thanksgiving as a potential abolitionist conspiracy really becomes popularized by the mid 1850s.”

The suspicions weren’t completely unfounded either. Although the Pilgrims’ first harvest celebration was in 1621, it wasn’t until 1846, 225 years later, that New Hampshire native Sarah Josepha Hale started campaigning to have Thanksgiving declared a national holiday. Hale, a widow with five children, was a prolific author, the editor of Philadelphia’s “Godey’s Lady’s Book” and one of the founders of Vassar College. She was also an abolitionist who was devoted to the Union.

A simple red pear and a festive paper place card welcome family and friends to the table.

Turkey Place Cards, set of 10, $20 Wildflowers, Fairhope

Spode Delamere Brown Dinner Plates, $28 Ivy Cottage

Further, according to Ott, it makes sense that if Southerners were “going to try to separate economically and, eventually, politically with secession, that they would want to separate culturally. So there was this move to really celebrate the uniqueness of Southern culture.”

And when it came right down to it, the New England-born holiday just

wasn’t a part of Southern culture, even though residents of some states had sporadically acknowledged the Pilgrim feast.

In 1863, Hale’s persistent appeals for a “moral and social reunion of Americans’’ resulted in President Abraham Lincoln proclaiming a national Thanksgiving Day, and during Reconstruction, this proclamation extended to the Confederate states as each one returned to the Union. Finally, in 1870, President Ulysses S. Grant designated it a national holiday, although Southerners— not all fans of Lincoln or Grant— were still slow to embrace Thanksgiving. What is interesting and ironic, however, is that many traditional Thanksgiving dishes are firmly rooted in Southern foodways.

“In the South, we have always eaten locally and eaten in season, and Thanksgiving is no exception to that,” says Emily Blejwas, executive director of the Alabama Folklife Association and author of “The Story of Alabama in Fourteen Foods.” “When I think about Thanksgiving in the South, I think about turkey. Turkeys are native to the region and Native Americans relied heavily on them— not only on eating turkeys, but on their eggs, too.”

Then there’s corn. Whether it is incorporated into cornmeal for dressing or mashed for sipping whiskey, “It was the staple of life,” says Blejwas. Other holiday classics native to the South are pecans, rice and, of course, sweet potatoes.

“Southern food in general, as we know it, wouldn’t exist without the very instrumental hand of African American cooks, particularly women. And I think sweet potato pie especially reflects that,” Blejwas says. “[Sweet potatoes] were instrumental and central to the Southern diet, especially for enslaved people.”

In addition to Southern sweet potato casseroles and cornbread dressing, Bay residents also opted for local indigenous foods, such as oysters and pecan pie, which still share the dining table with Northern fare, such as mashed potatoes and cranberries. The Port City also has that historic French and Spanish Colonial worldview, points out Blejwas, and “it was always open to different cultural traditions.” That’s why the fourth Thursday of November, Blejwas says, “has become an American holiday about food and is another cultural tradition that we have taken into our great Mobile melting pot.”

Thankgiving and its traditional dishes may be widely accepted today, but Southerners haven’t always welcomed the New England holiday with its cranberry recipes.

Spatchcocked Smoked Turkey

“When I was growing up in Georgia, Thanksgiving was packed with getting up early to go duck hunting with Dad, followed by an afternoon of watching football with my brothers-in-law and helping Mom in the kitchen with cleaning chores. Having five kids, my parents were accustomed to prepping big meals but “turkey day” was the biggest. Every year we got the largest bird to be found — anything smaller than an emu wouldn’t do. In addition, there was always a venison roast and tons of casseroles and veggies.

As the youngest child, I always had unanswered questions. Why did we have turkey only once a year? Why did we serve something that required epic labor to prepare and left us with copious leftovers that we weren’t looking forward to?

And then one day, I went to Texas. All those famous barbeque brisket joints carried smoked turkey breast on their menus. A turkey in beef country had to be good with no margin for error. I couldn’t imagine how white meat turkey could compete with the succulent texture of a smoked brisket until I tried Franklin’s in Austin. Simply seasoned and smoked to perfection, this is what would put turkey on the menu more frequently.

I’m older now and our Thanksgiving

gatherings are smaller. Turkey is a part of Thanksgiving these days, but it’s never the 24-pounder that fed an army for weeks. It’s either a reasonably sized breast or a small bird (10 pounds or so) that’s spatchcocked to ease in preparation. What a smaller bird lacks in quantity, it more than makes up in quality and flavor, so you can look forward to smoky leftover Mexican dishes like enchiladas or white bean chili, or a nice light turkey salad with a sleeve of Ritz crackers … assuming you even have leftovers.”

THE BIRD IS THE WORD

Much of our traditional Thanksgiving narrative may be a myth, and efforts are being made to help Americans better understand the complicated relationship between early American settlers and native people. One thing

is certain, however: turkey was served at that first meal with the Pilgrims and Indigenous Wampanoag in 1621, and it is the most common main at modern day Thanksgiving tables, too. A good roast chicken is a perfect substitute.

Spatchcocked Smoked Turkey

Recipe

by Bo Ansley

SERVES 8

8 — 12-pound whole turkey (a chicken works just as well) 1 quart of dill pickle juice, for brining sea salt and black pepper to taste

2 tablespoons of olive oil heavy-duty aluminum foil lump oak coal

1. Remove turkey from packaging. Remove the giblets. Using poultry shears, spatchcock the bird by cutting down each side of the backbone and removing it. Turn the bird over so the breasts face up, and press down gently on the breasts to split the bone and cause the bird to lay flat.

2. Add turkey and pickle juice to a large ziplock bag and set it aside. Place on a tray (in case the bag gets a puncture) and refrigerate overnight.

3. Fire up your smoker until it maintains 275–300 degrees. Remove turkey from brine and set on baking sheet. Pat dry with paper towels. Rub olive oil on skin and sprinkle with sea salt and black pepper to taste. Ansley prefers a two to one pepper to salt ratio.

4. Place a drip pan of water between the grill and fire. Place turkey skin side up on grill over indirect heat. After 90 minutes, the turkey should have an internal heat of about 160 degrees.

5. Remove the turkey from the grill and completely wrap in aluminum foil. Close the grill damper and and return bird to the smoker for 30 more minutes.

6. Remove from the grill and let it rest 30 minutes. Serve with cranberry or Alabama white BBQ sauce.

“A spatchcocked bird has more surface area and so it cooks faster and more evenly. Remember there’s plenty of secondary uses for the giblets, like stock and gravy, but mine usually go in the crab traps (because we like to eat blue crabs, too).”

Wild turkey bread plates and antique knives add layers of interest to a fall table.

Plates set of four $79, Knives set of 12 $125 Chapel Farm Collection, Fairhope

This turkey planter is filled with autumn blossoms and surrounded by magnolia leaves and muscadine vines from the yard.

Turkey Planter $52 Wildflowers, Fairhope

Scalloped Oysters

Recipe by Jane Faegin

SERVES 10

1 stick butter

4 1/2 cups crushed saltine crackers

1 quart oysters

1/8 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon pepper

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

1 1/4 cups half and half Paprika

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Melt butter in a large saute pan and add cracker crumbs. Cook, stirring occasionally, until browned. Remove from heat and set aside.

2. Drain oysters, reserving 1/2 cup liquid.

3. Lightly grease a 12 x 8-inch baking dish. Sprinkle half the toasted cracker crumbs. Top with oysters, then add salt, pepper and parsley. Cover with remaining cracker crumbs.

4. Combine half and half and reserved oyster liquid. Pour over cracker crumbs. Sprinkle with paprika. Bake for 35-40 minutes.

OYSTER HOLIDAY

Oysters might have been brought to the first Thanksgiving by Native peoples, but it has a place on Southern tables for good reason. Gulf of Mexico bivalves reach peak season with cooler weather (and water).

DOLL’S HEAVENLY OYSTER DRESSING

SCALLOPED OYSTERS

JANE FAEGIN

Scalloped Oysters

“I remember convivial feasts at my grandmother Lollie Lamey’s home, surrounded with my Lamey and Brady cousins. There was always oven-baked turkey with the dressing inside the bird and in the pan. Delicious! After I married, and when my husband Frank’s mother was living, we journeyed to Memphis for festivities. Frank was a runner back then and would participate in the Thanksgiving Day run. Those who finished the 5-mile race in less than 35 minutes received pumpkin pies, but the family would always accuse Frank of going to Seesel’s market to purchase his pie! Nowadays, our children and grandchildren join us on Mobile Bay for Thanksgiving. We’ve switched to frying the turkey in a Big Easy, which really simplifies the process.”

CATHERINE CLEVERDON VULEVICH

Doll’s Heavenly Oyster Dressing

“Growing up we always watched the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade, and in 1987 my parents took us to New York to see it in person. I’ll never forget seeing the cast from Rags to Riches, the Rockettes and Patrick Swayze! Today my sisters and our families alternate years, so we all spend the entire day with my parents and cousins on the Bay in Point Clear one year. And the next year, we spend Thanksgiving with the Vuleviches in Bellefountaine. We are a seafoodloving family, and my husband John spent a lot of time with Doll and her sister, June Bug, and their seafood recipes. He recommends getting freshly shucked oysters from the local oyster shops, and if possible, ‘off the run.’”

Doll’s Heavenly Oyster Dressing

Recipe by Catherine Vulevich

SERVES 10

1 1/2 loaves sliced white bread

1 stick butter

1 large onion

2 stalks celery

1/2 cup chopped parsley

4 cups chicken broth, divided

1 pint oysters, drained, liquor reserved salt and pepper to taste

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Add pieces of bread to oven and toast until golden brown. Remove from oven and cool completely. Then tear into small pieces and place in an extra-large mixing bowl. Set aside.

2. Melt the butter in a large sauté pan. Add onion and celery and cook until soft. Add cooked vegetables and parsley to the torn bread. Pour half the chicken broth over bread and stir to combine. Add remaining chicken broth and 2 tablespoons of reserved oyster liquor, salt and pepper and stir until well mixed. Gently fold in oysters.

3. Grease a large oven-safe dish and add dressing. Bake 35-45 minutes, or until golden brown.

“Scalloped oysters is a Feagin family tradition. My husband Frank’s mother served it at Thanksgiving, and her children and grandchildren loved it.”

“My grandmother Doris Hart Sullivan, or “Doll” as we all called her, passed away in 2011, and making her oyster dressing on Thanksgiving reminds me of her. While it cooks in the oven, the smell is heavenly!”

Autumn Vegetables

Recipe

by Jessi Gadomski

SERVES 6-8

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 links Conecuh sausage, cut into ¼” thick rounds (about 1 cup)* 1/2 teaspoon salt

2 pounds brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved vertically (about 7 cups) 1/2 cups water

1 medium butternut squash, peeled and cut into ½ in cubes (about 7 cups) 1 teaspoon Montreal steak seasoning

1. Heat olive oil in a large stockpot. Add sausage and saute until brown. Add the brussels sprouts, salt and water. Cover and let steam for 5 minutes.

2. Add the butternut squash, another 1/2 cup water and Montreal steak seasoning. Cover and steam for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent burning.

* You can omit the sausage, but replace it with an additional 1 tablespoon of olive oil.

JESSI GADOMSKI

Autumn Vegetables

“My father usually cooked a huge Thanksgiving meal for our family of four and a few friends. He always made sure to have lots of leftovers so we could enjoy the feast throughout the weekend. These days, we have three big Thanksgiving meals as we visit all the relatives. No matter where we eat, we’re sure to find lots of pies: pumpkin, pecan, Dutch apple, and sometimes a pumpkin cheesecake, too. I was born on Thanksgiving, so I love to celebrate!”

CAROLYN LEE GOODLOE

Cranberry Relish

“My parents’ home in Tuscaloosa was the family gathering spot on football weekends and holidays. On Thanksgiving, our house was full of aunts, uncles, lots of cousins and plenty of good food. These days my children and their families gather at our home in Point Clear. Our meal looks a lot like the ones from my Tuscaloosa days, except for the turkey. We like to experiment. We have tried fried,

Popeyes.

“As a mother of five kids, I’m always trying to create vegetable recipes that the kids love. They are obsessed with Brussels sprouts, so I try to serve them often. Sometimes I switch out the butternut squash with sweet potatoes or pumpkin.”

“I like this cranberry relish recipe because it is so different from the store-bought jelly. It is fresh and light and adds a new twist to our traditional meal.”

smoked and last year we ordered one from

It was very good!”

A TASTE OF THE NORTH

It is thought that the native Narragansett people introduced cranberries to colonists in Massachusetts as early as the 1500s, and the berries continue to grow well in New England and Canada. Despite geographic limitations, the sweet, tart fruit has become a staple on every American Thanksgiving table.

Cranberry Relish

Recipe by Carolyn Lee Goodloe MAKES 4 CUPS

1 bag fresh cranberries

1 medium naval orange, quartered

1 bunch cilantro, chopped

1 jalapeno, seeded and chopped

1 8-ounce can crushed pineapple, drained

1 cup sugar

1/2 lime, juiced

1 cup chopped, pecans

1/4 cup chopped mint leaves

1. Add cranberries and orange (including the peel) to a food processor and pulse until ground. Transfer to a mixing bowl and add cilantro, jalapeno and pineapple. Stir in the sugar. Add the lime juice and refrigerate for several hours.

2. Meanwhile, spread pecans out on a baking sheet and toast in a 350 degree oven for 7 minutes or until golden brown. Remove from oven and let cool completely.

3. Before serving relish, fold in the toasted pecans and mint.

JENNIFER MERRITT

Pumpkin Delight

Don’t Forget To ZAP THE PINECONES

text by LESLIE ANN TARABELLA illustration by ANNA THORNTON

Consider this a gentle reminder for all who may be A) forgetful or B) new to the area. It’s the essential step Southern hostesses remember without fail. If skipped, your decorating skills may be in danger of being . . . discussed.

The Great Depression left the rural South with the motto, “make the most of what you have.” It works for home décor as well as beauty pageants.

Granny thought to bring the “outdoors - in” long before HGTV. The pine boughs and waxy magnolia leaves were all the decorations she had to drape across the mantel, and the deep woodsy scent was imprinted on the brains of future generations.

That’s why, today, we’re programmed to keep a pair of pruning shears in the car for sudden stops to snip a little holly from our neighbor’s yard (she won’t mind) or clip a few branches from the old cedar in the cemetery.

But here’s the essential tip: Don’t forget to debug your natural decor before arranging it on the dining room table. After skipping home with a trunk full of pinecones from Mona Rae’s yard (she’ll thank you), remember to give your bounty a zap in the microwave or, like granny used to do, toast it a bit in the oven before arranging them on the dining room table.

Constance Pepperwaite, of the Spring Hill Pepperwaites, learned this the hard way. In the middle of her Thanksgiving dinner, a lovely vase of fat acorns sitting atop a silver tray suddenly hatched tiny white worms that shimmied themselves into a frenzy. She was forced her to grab the vase and run screaming as she tossed it off the porch.

Dinner and a show, indeed.

Those who decorate with natural elements fall into two camps: those who leave them as God intended and those who give The Creator a helping hand by enhancing them with five coats of metallic spray paint. You haven’t seen true beauty until you’ve seen Mavis Leigh’s silvery pinecone topiary. Absolute heaven on earth.

Happy decorating, y’all.

“My earliest memories of Thanksgiving revolve around coming across the Bay from Mobile to my Mother’s family in Magnolia Springs. She was the only sister to seven brothers, and she was expected to be there. So, I was always excited to get to play with all the cousins for the whole weekend on the farm. There was always lots of food and activities. Our Thanksgivings today are always at the hunting camp in Tensaw with all the family and whoever else needs a place to celebrate. My favorite part is Wednesday night when everyone starts to arrive. We always have something seafood to eat and everyone’s favorite is the large pot of oyster stew. It’s an unconventional recipe from my father-in-law that is served with shredded lettuce on top. Our Thanksgivings seem to be getting larger every year and I love it with all the food, family and fun!”

“My dear friend Cindy Thompson shared this recipe with me 10 years ago and I’ve been making it ever since. It’s a great Thanksgiving dessert that everyone loves, and we usually enjoy leftovers for several days.”

Leslie Anne Tarabella is the author of three books. She loves made-from-scratch hushpuppies and lives in Fairhope with her husband, Bob, where they raised two sons.

Pumpkin Delight

Recipe by Jennifer Merritt

SERVES 10

3 eggs

1 15-ounce can pumpkin puree

1 12-ounce can evaporated milk

1 cup sugar

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1 box yellow cake mix

1 1/2 cups chopped pecans

1 1/2 sticks butter, melted

1 8-ounce cream cheese, softened

1/2 box confectioners sugar

1 12-ounce Cool Whip

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Spray a 9 x 13-inch glass baking dish with cooking spray and line the inside with parchment paper.

2. Beat eggs, then stir in pumpkin, milk, sugar and cinnamon. Pour into prepared baking dish and sprinkle cake mix over the mixture. Top with pecans and melted butter.

3. Bake for 50–60 minutes, being careful not to let the pecans burn. Bring to room temperature and then cool completely in refrigerator before continuing.

4. In the bowl of a stand mixer, beat cream cheese and confectioner’s sugar until well combined. Stir in Cool Whip. Invert pumpkin dessert onto a serving platter and frost the top of the pumpkin layer. Return to fridge until ready to serve. Slice into squares.

text by AMELIA ROSE ZIMLICH photos by ELIZABETH GELINEAU

FRIENDS & HOSTS

EACH

AUDREY PEARL HEADBAND • $58 CHAPEL FARM COLLECTION

Shop Bay-inspired scents from a local small business.

SIGNATURE CANDLE • $29 CITRUS & CANE

FRENCH COMMUNION MEDAL BY ANDREA BARNETT • $226

THE VISITATION SHOP

IT’S AN EXPERIENCE

Research shows experiences make us happier than things, and none of us need more stuff in our lives. This year, give those special people on your Christmas list something they will really remember. Here are a few of our favorites.

MOBILE BAY MAGAZINE GIFT SUBSCRIPTION

Give the gift of Mobile Bay Magazine all year long. Get a one-year gift subscription for $15 and each additonal gift subscription for just $10.

EAT YOUR WAY AROUND TOWN

Discover the food scenes in Mobile and Baldwin counties through immersive tours from Bienville Bites Food Tour. Tours start at $20, and are offered for a variety of age groups, with some open to the entire family and others open to those 21 and up.

SWEET MUSIC

Gift tickets for the Mobile Symphony concerts can be purchased at a range of prices and redeemed for any upcoming concert. The Symphony will wrap and mail your tickets to your loved one on your behalf — so simple! 432-2010 • mobilesymphony.org

DINNER CRUISE

Whether it’s a murder mystery or live music, enjoy an elegant themed dinner while cruising the Mobile waterfront. Perdido Queen dinner cruise gift certificates are now available for purchase from $33 to $74. Cruises last two and a half hours, and all ages are welcome! 948-6611 • perdidoqueen.com

GO PADDLING

For the adventurous spirit on your list, WildNative Tours offers eco and adventure tours across coastal Alabama and the delta. Boat rentals are available for $40, and tour prices vary. Children and adults are all encouraged to join the tours and experience the beautiful Alabama nature. 272-4088 • wildnativetours.com

GET CREATIVE

Teens with an artsy side will enjoy weekly classes with other teenagers at the Mobile Museum of Art. Classes are held one night a week for four weeks, with each month focusing on a different medium. Classes range from $75 - $90 a month and are open to teens ages 12 and up. 208-5200 • mobilemuseumofart.com

WRAP UP!

RESOURCES

ASHLAND GALLERY 2321 OLD SHELL ROAD. 479-3548.

CHAPEL FARM COLLECTION 19130 SCENIC HIGHWAY 98, FAIRHOPE. 929-1630.

CITRUS & CANE CITRUSCANE.COM, 272-9819.

FANTASY ISLAND TOYS 335 FAIRHOPE AVE., FAIRHOPE. 928-1720.

THE GARAGE STUDIO 17070 SCENIC HIGHWAY 98, POINT CLEAR. 928-3474.

THE HOLIDAY 4513 OLD SHELL ROAD. 342-4911.

IVY COTTAGE 9 DU RHU DRIVE, SUITE 360. 345-1731.

IVY COTTAGE RETREAT 9 DU RHU DRIVE, SUITE 368. 345-1731.

MCCOY OUTDOOR COMPANY 3498 SPRINGHILL AVE. 473-1080.

THE MIX 9 DU RHU DRIVE, SUITE 345. 298-9137.

MOBILE BAY MAGAZINE SHOP MOBILEBAYSHOP.COM. 473-6269.

PROVISION 100 N SECTION ST., FAIRHOPE. 850-5004.

SWAY 324 FAIRHOPE AVE., FAIRHOPE. 990-2282.

URBAN EMPORIUM 260 DAUPHIN ST. 441-8044.

THE VISITATION SHOP 2300 SPRINGHILL AVE. 471-4106.

WILDFLOWERS 50 S. CHURCH ST., FAIRHOPE. 928-6200.

Falling for November

FIRST THREE SATURDAYS IN NOVEMBER

FALL MARKET IN THE PARK

7:30 a.m. - 12 p.m. Support local farmers and artists as you shop for fresh produce, baked goods, honey, crafts and more.

CATHEDRAL SQUARE CITYOFMOBILE.ORG

THROUGH NOVEMBER 6

GREATER GULF STATE FAIR

Explore roller coasters and other thrill rides, fair food, a petting zoo, rodeo and more at this annual attraction.

THE GROUNDS GREATERGULFSTATEFAIR.COM

NOVEMBER 1-30

FALL OUTDOOR CASCADING CHRYSANTHEMUMS

8 a.m. - 5 p.m. Marvel at the nation’s largest outdoor cascading chrysanthemum show in this annual display.

BELLINGRATH GARDENS AND HOME BELLINGRATH.ORG

NOVEMBER 3-13

38TH ANNUAL FRANK BROWN SONGWRITERS FESTIVAL

More than 200 acclaimed songwriters from all over the world participate. Showtimes and locations vary.

VARIOUS LOCATIONS FRANKBROWNSONGWRITERS.COM

NOVEMBER 3-13

CHRISTMAS JUBILEE

9 a.m. - 7 p.m. Fri., 9 a.m. - 6 p.m. Sat., 10 a.m. - 5 p.m. Sun. Shop til’ you drop at this fundraiser for the Junior League of Mobile featuring merchants from around the country. Ticket prices vary.

MOBILE CONVENTION CENTER JUNIORLEAGUEMOBILE.ORG/CHRISTMASJUBILEE\

NOVEMBER 4 - 6

ALABAMA PECAN FESTIVAL

5 - 9 p.m. Fri., 10 a.m. - 9 p.m. Sat., 11 a.m. - 4 p.m. Sun. Go a little nuts with arts and crafts vendors, antique cars, food, and live music at this free annual event.

W.C. GRIGGS ELEMENTARY SCHOOL ALABAMAPECANFESTIVAL.COM

NOVEMBER 5

HONEY BEE FESTIVAL

8 a.m. - 4 p.m. Don’t “bee” left out of this event featuring arts and crafts vendors, food trucks, a kids’ area and a 5K run.

HONEY BEE PARK ROBERTSDALE FACEBOOK.COM/HONEYBEEFESTIVALCBEF

NOVEMBER 5

TOYS FOR TOTS MOTORCYCLE RIDE

8 a.m. - 2 p.m. Watch a motorcycle ride and bring an unwrapped present for a boy or girl in need. Ride starts at 11 a.m.

USS ALABAMA BATTLESHIP MEMORIAL PARK MOBILECOUNTYAL.GOV

NOVEMBER 6

GREEK FEST CHARITY GALA

6 p.m. Join the Annunciation Greek Orthodox Church for this gala in support of the Orthodox Christian Network and Penelope House.

ANNUNCIATION GREEK ORTHODOX CHURCH GREEKFESTCHARITYGALA.COM

NOVEMBER 10

THE LIGHTHOUSE 22ND ANNUAL SUNSET SUPPER

6 - 9 p.m. This evening of food, drinks, live music and a silent auction benefits The Lighthouse, which provides services to victims of domestic violence.

WEEKS BAY RESERVE RESOURCE CENTER EVENTBRITE.COM

NOVEMBER 10

KEVIN HART

8 p.m. Enjoy a night of laughter with American comedian and actor in “The Reality Check Tour.” Doors open at 6:30 p.m. Ticket prices vary.

MOBILE CIVIC CENTER ASMGLOBALMOBILE.COM

NOVEMBER 10-13

10TH ANNUAL FAIRHOPE FILM FESTIVAL

Film lovers will be able to view short and feature films, both foreign and domestic. Showtimes vary and tickets must be purchased online.

VARIOUS LOCATIONS FAIRHOPEFILMFESTIVAL.ORG

NOVEMBER 11

LODA ARTWALK

4 - 10 p.m. Celebrate Native American Heritage Month and National Cake Day with a family-friendly night of music, dance, performances, art vendors, crafts for kids, photo opportunities and more.

CATHEDRAL SQUARE CITYOFMOBILE.ORG

NOVEMBER 11

ART SOUP

6 - 9 p.m. Have an artsy night at this lively street party in conjunction with LODA ArtWalk. Your ticket includes a handmade bowl with soup, a beverage, live music, raffle entries and more. Tickets: $40

JOACHIM STREET, MOBILE CITYOFMOBILE.ORG

NOVEMBER 12

CHOCOLATE AND CHEESE FESTIVAL

10 a.m. - 7 p.m. Come for the chocolate and cheese, of course, and stay for the live music, kid zone and contests. Admission: $5; free for kids 12 and under.

HERITAGE PARK, FOLEY GULFSHORES.COM/EVENTS

NOVEMBER 12

29TH ANNUAL OYSTER RUN

8 a.m. Put on by the Foley Rotary Club, this 5K and 1-mile fun run will be held at Orange Blossom Square and proceeds will go to the Alabama Sheriff’s Boys Ranch, the Jennifer Claire-Moore Foundation, Ecumenical Ministries and other local charities. Registration prices vary.

ORANGE BLOSSOM SQUARE, FOLEY VISITFOLEY.COM

NOVEMBER 12

SATURDAYS AT THE COOP

7 - 10 p.m. Gather in the park with blankets, chairs and snacks to listen 80s hair band, The Hollywood Vagabonds.

COOPER RIVERSIDE PARK CITYOFMOBILE.ORG

NOVEMBER 13

PUBLIX BATTLESHIP 12K

8 - 10:30 a.m. Lace up your running shoes and hit the road for this patriotic race that honors veterans.

USS ALABAMA BATTLESHIP PARK BATTLESHIP12K.COM

FAIRHOPE ANNUAL LIGHTING OF THE TREE CELEBRATION

NOVEMBER 13

BOURBON ON THE BAY

3 - 6 p.m. Save the date for the sixth annual Bourbon on the Bay, where you can sample a wide variety of premium bourbons and whiskeys. Also featured: heavy hors d’oeuvres, craft cocktails featuring local mixologists, a selection of wine and local brews, a unique silent auction, and live music. Ticket prices vary.

23 EAST AT BROOKLEY BOURBONBYTHEBAY.COM

NOVEMBER 17

FAIRHOPE

ANNUAL LIGHTING OF THE TREES CELEBRATION

5:30 p.m. Kick off the holiday season with this annual tree lighting in Fairhope.

DOWNTOWN FAIRHOPE FAIRHOPEAL.GOV

NOVEMBER 18

MOBILE LIGHTING OF THE TREE

5:30 - 9 p.m. This free family-friendly event will include a live DJ, holiday princesses, photo opportunities, Santa Claus and much more!

MARDIS GRAS PARK CITYOFMOBILE.ORG

NOVEMBER 19-20

BEETHOVEN AND BLUE JEANS: SKY

7:30 p.m. Sat., 2:30 p.m. Sun. This casual-dress concert showcases one of Beethoven’s most popular symphonies –No 7. Kentucky-born Tessa Lark plays a bluegrass-inspired violin concerto. Works by Aaron Copland complete the American theme. Ticket prices vary.

SAENGER THEATRE ASMGLOBALMOBILE.COM

BOURBON ON THE BAY

NOVEMBER 24

TURKEY TROT FOR HOPE

8 - 10 a.m. Run a 5k or the 1-mile race to support Rapahope, a nonprofit organization that offers programming for families battling childhood cancer.

MARDI GRAS PARK CITYOFMOBILE.ORG

NOVEMBER 25

FRIDAY NIGHT LIVE

6 - 11 p.m. Dance the night away for free with music from two different bands: altrock Ballastella and Americana-countryrock fusion The Royal Horses. Plus, enjoy the sounds of DJ Geaux spinning sounds throughout the night.

ARLINGTON PARK CITYOFMOBILE.ORG

NOVEMBER 26

IRON BOWL BLOCK PARTY

Two hours before kickoff. Watch the iconic matchup in HD. The band False Identity will provide musical entertainment. A variety of contests at the free, family-friendly event are a way to show off your team spirit.

DAUPHIN STREET

ALABAMACONTEMPORARY.ORG

NOVEMBER 25 - JANUARY 4

MAGIC CHRISTMAS IN LIGHTS

Sip hot cocoa and celebrate the holidays at this annual tour of festive lights open nightly. Ticket prices vary.

BELLINGRATH GARDENS AND HOME BELLINGRATH.ORG

MAGIC CHRISTMAS IN LIGHTS

[DECEMBER HIGHLIGHTS]

DECEMBER 2

FAIRHOPE ANNUAL CHRISTMAS PARADE

7 - 8 p.m. Gather in downtown Fairhope for floats, music and an appearance by Old Saint Nick at this free public gathering.

DOWNTOWN FAIRHOPE ESCHAMBER.COM

DECEMBER 3

ROLL MOBILE HOLIDAY EDITION

6 - 10 p.m. Lace up your skates and dress up as your favorite winter holiday character as Bienville Square turns into an outdoor rollerskating rink for the evening at this free event.

BIENVILLE SQUARE CITYOFMOBILE.ORG

DECEMBER 6 AND 7

THE PLAYHOUSE IN THE PARK PRESENTS A CHRISTMAS CAROL

Local talent presents the musical of the classic Dickens’ Christmas story. Showtimes and ticket prices vary.

SAENGER THEATRE ASMGLOBALMOBILE.COM

DECEMBER 9

HOLIDAY LODA ARTWALK

Experience Cathedral Square transformed into a balloon-filled wonderland at this fun, family-friendly and free event.

CATHEDRAL SQUARE CITYOFMOBILE.ORG

* Check event websites for most current status.

THE PLAYHOUSE IN THE PARK A CHRISTMAS CAROL

The Nevis Affair

The Caribbean scandal that exposed the extensive corruption of Mobile’s founder.

text by JOHN S. SLEDGE

Marie-Therese Pollet was a navy wife used to her husband’s long absences, but the famous Pierre Le Moyne d’Iberville, hero of Hudson Bay, founder of Mobile, and recent conqueror of British Nevis and St. Kitts in the West Indies, was dead of yellow fever at Havana. The young widow was only 34, living in La Rochelle, France, and the financial obligations concomitant with her exalted station allowed little time to mourn. But along with the news of her husband’s passing came a heavy wooden trunk and accompanying strongbox. These carefully sealed receptacles held sundry treasures and three canvas sacks stuffed with Spanish silver — all plundered during Iberville’s brilliant Nevis and St. Kitts campaign. By rights, most of this wealth belonged to the French government and the shipowners whose vessels had carried her husband’s forces across the Atlantic. Iberville had certainly known this but had been secretly funneling profits to his wife for years. As she had with

his previous shipments, Madame Iberville moved quickly to conceal this last windfall. Unfortunately, her husband’s secretary left a paper trail, and angry shipowners sued her for “fraud and deceit.”

For all their celebrated colonial achievements, Iberville and his brothers Bienville, Serigny and Châteauguay were notorious profiteers whose ceaseless efforts to line their own pockets at the expense of the Crown retarded larger strategic policies and hurt those settlers struggling just to survive in Mobile. Madame Iberville’s complicity was but a slender thread in a fraudulent web that included merchant-ship captains, naval officers, minor government officials, countinghouse clerks and shopkeepers from Cap-Haitien, Havana and Mobile to New Rochelle and Paris.

In the wake of Iberville’s death, the French government attempted to unravel his elaborate web, interviewing witnesses and seizing account books, records

Above: Portrait of Pierre Le Moyne d’Iberville, French explorer and naval commander, founder of the Colony of Louisiana, Knight of the Order of Saint Louis, and a veteran of King Williams’ War and the War of the Spanish Succession. COURTESY BIBLIOTHÈQUE ET ARCHIVES NATIONALES DU QUÉBEC

and receipts. The three areas of inquiry were Iberville’s sale of captured goods for his personal gain, his illegal trade activity and any fraud that preceded the fleet’s 1705 departure from France. Jérôme Phélypeaux, Comte de Pontchartrain and Minister of Marine, who had known Iberville well and liked him, was especially outraged and took an intensely personal interest in the investigation.

The process even included distant Mobile. The local commissary, an argumentative bean counter named Nicholas de La Salle, leveled numerous accusations against the Le Moynes. Among La Salle’s claims were that Iberville double-billed expenses; that Châteauguay used a government vessel to ferry goods to Veracruz to sell for his own gain; and that Bienville, the governor of French Louisiana, hoarded and sold government foodstuffs at excessive prices meant for the Mobile garrison’s underfed soldiers. Pontchartrain, disgusted with all the Le Moynes, sent a new governor to replace Bienville and an accountant named Dartaguiette Diron to conduct a thorough inquest. Unfortunately, the prospective governor died en route, and Diron had to deliver Pontchartrain’s stern rebuke to Bienville personally. The missive enumerated all the charges and concluded, “If you have followed such a course of conduct, His Majesty has great reason to complain of you and will punish you severely.” One can imagine Diron’s nervousness and Bienville’s chagrin.

At Mobile, Diron was careful, cognizant that he was far from France. For all Bienville’s apparent shady maneuvering, Diron could see that he was a capable man on the ground who knew how to handle dangerous Indians as well as disgruntled colonists. Whatever his faults, no one else was likely to do any better in such a harsh environment. Diron could not adequately document La Salle’s accusations and concluded that Bienville was, mostly, innocent. He suggested that improved business practices would eliminate any further ir-

regularities. Pontchartrain grudgingly accepted the report but refused to formally reinstate Bienville as governor, thus further damaging the colony.

Unfortunately for Pontchartrain, Diron and the other investigators, Iberville’s records were a disorganized mess. Receipts were missing, merchants in Havana and Cap-Haitien claimed ignorance, there were no cargo inventories and so on. Those interviewed were evasive and quick to place blame on Iberville. Nonetheless, enough evidence emerged to prove that the socalled “Hero of New France” had engaged in multiple schemes to enrich himself at the government’s expense. Just two examples were that Iberville skimmed money earmarked to provision the sailors, forcing the expedition to make a stop and buy more food at higher prices, and he illegally loaded 25,000 pounds of iron tools which he then sold at a handsome profit in Havana.

The Iberville case, dubbed the Nevis Affair, dragged on for 35 years. Along the way, the government dropped its actions against the minor players, but few of them got any prize money. Too much to ignore were Iberville’s illicit profits amounting to a staggering 112,000 livres (roughly a million dollars today), and the government demanded restitution from Madame Iberville. She made every effort to avoid paying, at one point even claiming that their three surviving children, all of age, were responsible for a portion. There are no existing records to indicate whether or not she ever paid. The scandal certainly sullied Iberville’s reputation at the time, especially among those in the government’s top echelons, but as the participants died and the matter receded, his heroic deeds once again rose to the fore, and those are what we choose to remember now. Of such is history’s caprice. MB

John S. Sledge is currently working on a book about Mobile and Havana’s centurieslong shared history.

“911 Dauphin Street”

text by MARISSA DEAL

For most of her life, Rhoda Melendez had no idea that her great-grandmother, Frances Ellen Crosley, grew up in an orphanage. “There was a stigma at that time,” Melendez explains. But as her mother, Annie Catrett Williamson, advanced in her years, she felt that it was important for Melendez to know more about her great-grandmother’s past. Williamson shared what little information she knew: that Crosley was raised in the Protestant Orphans’ Asylum located at 911 Dauphin Street in Mobile. Although Williamson had lived with her grandmother her entire life, she never spoke of her childhood. Melendez was intrigued.

The trail began with the history of Mobile. While the Port City’s population was predominantly Catholic at the beginning of the 19th century, the antebellum cotton economy attracted an influx of transplants from the Northeast and other areas of the South, many of whom were of the Protestant faith. At the same time, deadly outbreaks of yellow fever spread throughout the city, leaving many children without one or both of their parents. There was already a Catholic Orphans’ Asylum, which had opened in 1838 on Conti Street. However, many of the wives of prominent Protestant Mobile businessmen saw a need to accommodate the growing number of orphans who were from Baptist, Presbyterian, Episcopal and Methodist families. In 1839, the women formed the Protestant Orphan Society and began the work of raising money and finding an appropriate location to

house the children. By 1846, the results of their efforts came to fruition, and the orphanage opened its doors to house up to 40 children, both boys and girls.

Melendez contacted the Historic Mobile Preservation Society to uncover more information about the orphanage, and if possible, her great-grandmother. At first, she was informed that there was no documentation, and Melendez feared she had reached a dead end. However, not too long later, Bob Peck, the chief archivist, did a deep dive and discovered two boxes of records. Originals. Hand-written in difficultto-read scripts.

Melendez and her mother, who was in her 90s at the time, pored through the

box together, deciphering the names of the orphaned children, the supplies ordered and other assorted administrative records. This work, Melendez admits, was tedious at times. Yet, each child’s name felt important, and when Melendez found Frances Ellen Crosley in the record, they knew were on the right track.

While continuing to conduct research in the primary records, Melendez began typing vignettes about a headstrong, quickwitted 11-year-old girl with the thinly veiled name Nell Crosby. Nell winds up in the orphanage after the loss of both of her parents and separation from her brothers. Nell’s determination and humor through difficult times, Melendez says, are traits

The search to uncover her great-grandmother’s past led Rhoda Melendez to uncover the history of the Protestant Orphans’ Asylum in Mobile and ignited her first novel.

Above: The Protestant Orphans’ Asylum at 911 Dauphin Street, as photographed by the Historic American Buildings Survey in 1933. IMAGE COURTESY THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

Left: The children from the Prostestant Orphans’ Asylum, later referred to as the Protestant Children’s Home, in the 1950s.

she remembers about her great-grandmother, with a bit of her own personality thrown in for good measure.

Melendez began telling the stories of Nell’s adventures to her own grandchildren, and with the encouragement of her family, the tales grew into her first novel, “911 Dauphin Street,” historical fiction that appeals to young and adult readers alike.

The whole process, from the initial research to the finished book took nearly four years. Her mother, who has since passed away, lived to see the publication of the novel in August of 2021.

Because the boxes of records contained no description of daily life at the orphanage, Melendez used the little information available and the rendering of the building, to piece together a life for Nell. Her imagination filled in the gaps. The dialogue between characters, she explains, came easily to her. She drew on the different dialects she heard growing up in Pike and Crenshaw Counties.

The result is not a bleak and depressing story. The underlying message is one of hope. The children at the orphanage were treated with kindness, and as those painstaking records revealed, were well-fed. The grounds had a garden and a cow that produced milk for the children. Children were allowed to choose their apprenticeships and encouraged to seek paths in life that interested them when it was time to enter the adult world.

“I want my readers to walk away with an understanding of the passion these ladies had to make sure that the children were well

Below: Rhoda Melendez, author of “911 Dauphin Street” 

cared for,” Melendez explains. The patrons “undertook an enormous feat to build a facility that would later go on to house 80 to 90 children.” The staff competently administered the institution for years.

Melendez adds that since publishing “911 Dauphin Street,” she has had the opportunity to meet several people who grew up in the orphanage, and many share that, for a work of fiction, much of her descriptions of life at the orphanage ring true. One former resident went on to describe her time there as “the best years of her life.”

In 1973, the orphanage closed its doors and the building sat vacant for many years, falling into disrepair. However, in 2015 the property was acquired by the Infant Mystics society and renovated into the meeting and special events space Cotton Hall. The building, like the orphaned children who once inhabited it, proves to be resilient. Despite a devastating fire that consumed much of the interior in October of 2020, the building remains, and is being fully restored and renovated by the Infant Mystics, who are determined to keep this beautiful landmark as a part of Mobile history and to continue to create memories there. MB

Excerpts from “911 Dauphin Street”

At home, our preacher had a lot to say about Gloryland—the place where happiness and rejoicing goes on day and night by those who’ve reached the mansion built especially for them, and where unspeakable joy is felt at seeing face to face the saints of old, and of course, Jesus our Saviour Himself. But I was never real clear on what else people do after they get there or how much they know of the goings on of the ones they left behind. Do they hear us talking, or know our thoughts? I liked that idea pretty much. But right this minute, as I licked the last bits of syrup off my fingers, I was hoping Mama couldn’t hear from heaven that I was thinking Cooks’ biscuits were every bit as good as hers. •••

Everybody needs guts at some time or other, if you ask me, and there are all kinds of those. Guts to speak up for yourself when you have to, or to be silent when you’re called on to; guts to fight if you need to, or to not fight if you don’t want to; guts to stick to your guns when you know you’re right, or guts to admit when you’re wrong. Papa always told me I should be careful thinking that way. That there was a fine line between guts and foolishness, and I could get myself in some bad fixes if I crossed that line. Always make sure I was on the right side of it, he said. I had listened to Papa’s advice and was thankful that, so far, it had kept me out of trouble.

Excerpt from 911 Dauphin Street© 2021 by Rhoda Melendez. All rights reserved.

Meet “911 Dauphin Street” author Rhoda Melendez, along with other vendors, at Rooted and Grounded in Mobile on November 12 from 8:30 a.m. - noon.

Madame Octavia LeVert’s Salon of the South

The rise and fall of a Mobile icon.

text by RUSSELL BLOUNT

At the southwest corner of Government and St. Emanuel streets, near the entrance of the Bankhead Tunnel, there once stood the brick, two-story, Federal-style home of the beautiful Madame Octavia Walton LeVert and her husband Dr. Henry S. LeVert. For nearly two decades in the mid-19th century, the elegant mansion represented the cultural center of Mobile’s cosmopolitan society. The gold and white drawing room, some say, was the first real American salon patterned in the French fashion. All of the spacious rooms and halls of the home were appointed with works of art, and the walls were adorned with paintings by the renowned masters of Europe. Surrounding the home, the gardens were crowded with rose bushes lying under canopies of oleanders and magnolias. In the evening, when the guests arrived, the home and the grounds were lit, illuminated with a blaze of light from a multitude of lamps.

Yet, the most distinguished feature of the home was the accomplished lady receiving her guests. Known throughout

America by such accolades as the “Queen of the South,” and the “Belle of the Union,” Madame LeVert was thought by many to be “the most charming woman in the world.” A New Orleans newspaper in describing her “sculptured beauty,” gave it a pretentious flair: “Her face is Madonnalike, brown waves of hair parting from a high, broad forehead; her eyes are blue, and seem to melt with thought, and her chiseled lips are tinted like the delicate sea shell.” Such extravagant praises were typical, and she constantly received them. It followed, then, that Octavia was understandably haughty. She had, after all, been born into a wealthy and famous family, and from childhood had always

Above The home of Madame Octavia Walton LeVert on Government Street. COURTESY BOB PECK, MINNIE MITCHELL ARCHIVES, HISTORIC MOBILE PRESERVATION SOCIETY Octavia Walton LeVert, painted by Thomas Sully. COURTESY MAGGIE TUBERVILLE, HISTORIC MOBILE PRESERVATION SOCIETY. IT IS CURRENTLY HOUSED AT OAKLEIGH HOUSE

been told that she was superior to others. And given her refinement and accomplishments, it seemed she was. Although never officially enrolled in a traditional school, she was tutored by some very erudite scholars. By the time she was 20 years old, she was fluent in French, Spanish, Italian and German, and had a working knowledge of Greek and Latin. By her mid-40s, Octavia had traveled extensively throughout the United States, made two tours of Europe and wrote a book on her journeys.

After returning to Mobile from Europe, Octavia LeVert was deemed a woman of international fame. It seemed she knew, or at least had met, every person of any importance in her travels. In London, Queen Victoria invited her to a ball in the court before she had been formally presented, an indiscretion which sent the royal society into an uproar. In Paris, she was presented to Napoleon III, and in Rome, she was granted an audience with the Pope, with whom she carried on a conversation in Italian. On our side of the Atlantic, she was as well known in New York, Philadelphia and Washington as she was in Mobile. Her friends and acquaintances included politicians, diplomats, touring noblemen, Supreme Court judges, physicians, artists, writers, actors, journalists, and an assortment of swashbucklers and men of adventure. The list of names is encyclopedic, but among the many were such important political figures as Millard Fillmore, Henry Clay and Daniel Webster; American legends, such as David Crockett and Sam Houston; famous actors, Tyrone Power and Joe Jefferson; poets and writers, including Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, Edgar Allen Poe, and her close friend Washington Irving, who exalted her as “A woman such as appears but once in the course of an empire.” There were others, of course, who had failed to achieve such prominent status, yet were people she found to be interesting, intriguing or entertaining such as a barber with a good tenor voice or a struggling actor with a passion for the theatre. But whatever their distinction, they remained her welcomed guests, never failing to visit

her salon and pay their respects when they passed through Mobile.

As Mobile was a city consumed with the traditions of society, to receive or not receive an invitation to Octavia’s salon might embellish or diminish one’s social standing. In the late 1850s, or “Golden Fifties,” as it was called, her home was the gathering place for the famous and renown. Except for those times she was in New Orleans attending the theatres, the salon was open every evening for her guests, and on Mondays it was open from 11 a.m. until 11 p.m. There were, of course, some Mobilians who found her too flamboyant, but none who were not anxious to meet her and her guests. Anyone would have envied an invitation to one of her receptions. There, eminent people gathered around her to discuss politics, art, music and literature. Even the most educated found nothing to be beyond her intellect; the queen hostess

could converse with her guests in French, Spanish, Italian and German.

At times, it was difficult to determine whether it was Madame LeVert or her celebrated guests who commanded the greatest attention. When Henry Clay, an American statesman known as the “great compromiser” passed through Mobile, he planned a visit with her. Considered one of the most important political figures of the era, she met his ship at the docks with her carriage and driver. The two were engaged in conversation as crowds of people gathered along the streets, watching them as her carriage rolled by. Noticing this, Octavia called his attention to the tribute he was receiving from the admiring multitude. But Clay simply shook his head and smiled, “No, Madame,” he said, “it is for you.” Indeed, Clay was at least partially right. As the story goes, an old man watching them pass, remarked, “Well, there’s the presidentto-be riding with the Queen of the South.”

In the late 1850s, as the threat of civil war loomed over the country, Octavia’s salon was becoming less of a center for politicians, artists and the literati. Instead, the salon’s accent had shifted more to a venue for adventurers known as filibusters. In those days, that term referred to men who were intent on conquering new territory in the Caribbean, not only to enrich themselves, but to acquire new lands for the expansion of slavery, a sort of Manifest Destiny for visionary Southerners. Although this was applauded in the South, it was clearly a federal crime under “The Neutrality Act,” which prohibited private citizens of the United States from making war upon countries with which our government was at peace. Moreover, it was risky business for those daring enough to set sail on expeditions to Central American countries with the intent of overthrowing their governments. Nevertheless, filibustering continued to take place, and the waterfront at Mobile swarmed with such adventurous men, both foreign and American.

Many of these filibusters found their way into the home of Madame LeVert. Although she had little interest in their political or financial motives, Octavia was fascinated by them. She loved to listen to their exciting tales of adventure. She welcomed and entertained the Hungarian Lajos Kossuth when he visited Mobile, and received Narciso Lopez after his failed attempt at a revolution in Cuba. But, by far, the most famous of her filibustering guests was “the grey-eyed man of destiny,” William Walker, a Tennessean, who had formerly been both a doctor and lawyer, but had abandoned those professions in favor of an audacious scheme of leading a military force into Nicaragua to overthrow the government and establish his own empire. It was in the LeVert home that Walker convinced Harry Maury, the former Marshal of Mobile, to join his expedition to Nicaragua.

But the American Civil War changed everything. Prior to the first shot being fired, both Lopez and Walker were executed in the Caribbean countries they had attempted to overthrow. Filibustering soon lost its appeal as Southerners became more concerned with fighting for independence, and trying to keep the slaves they had rather than expanding the institution into other lands.

As for the Madame, the war was especially trying. Although the LeVerts had a number of slaves staffing their home, they had always been Unionists and opposed to secession. Octavia, of course, had close friends on both sides of the Mason-Dixon Line, and had no desire to take sides in a war between them. Nevertheless, as the conflict dragged on, the LeVerts started a hospital, and devoted themselves to the care of the sick and wounded Confederate soldiers. For Octavia, the war days were difficult. Her chances for travel had ended and the graces of her polite social life waned. Adding to her distress, her husband died in 1864, leaving her as head of the household and

Above Painting of Henry Clay by Matthew Harris Jouett in 1818. The United States Secretary of State was a famous guest of Madame LeVert, claiming to have been overshadowed by her renown during his visit. IMAGE COURTESY TRANSYLVANIA UNIVERSITY

without a source of income.

By the time the war finally ended, Octavia’s wealth was gone. When Union soldiers occupied the city of Mobile in the spring of 1865, the man in command was General Gordon Granger, who happened to be an old friend of Octavia. He offered to guard and protect her home, a favor she graciously accepted. That, of course, offended many of the loyal Confederate citizens, who defiantly closed their homes to Federal troops. Their attitude towards her became one of resentment, and she was ostracized from the very society over which she had once reigned. Soon thereafter, a great ammunition explosion occurred in the city, just blocks away from Government Street, destroying or damaging many buildings and homes, and which probably caused at least some damage to the LeVert home. In any event, it was more than Octavia and her family could take. She and her daughters left Mobile. Without a source of income for her family, she was forced to rent the home that once housed the famous salon.

Octavia spent the remainder of her life trying to earn money through her writings and parlor readings in New York and other cities she and her daughter, Diddie, would visit. She also spent time in Augusta, Georgia, with her youngest daughter, Cara Netta, and her husband. It was there, in Augusta, that Octavia died on March 12, 1877, some say, from a broken heart.

In 1965, her home, in which she had established what some said was “the first real American salon,” also vanished, demolished despite the outcry of public protests. Sadly, for all who love history, the home can only live on in our imaginations. Her husband’s office still graces Government Street. MB

Russell W. Blount, Jr., is the author of five books on the American Civil War as well as a number of articles on 19th-century America in historical journals and publications.

Defiantly Straight

Pain is beauty — but Velcro rollers and mimosas may help.

MCDONALD ATKINS

You’ve got to invoke a little Southern Zen to endure the beautification process. Or drink. But we’ll get to that.

Sixteen hours.

That’s how long I was in my mother’s home for a Thanksgiving visit before I found myself with not one but two different kinds of product in my hair.

My limp, straight, ornery hair has been a source of consternation to my mother my whole life, and one day, by God, she will conquer it and give me the bouncin’ and behavin’ blonde locks a self-respecting Southern gal is supposed to have.

It started with my first permanent wave around the age of six. Mama managed to get one picture of me with a halo of golden curls. Then my hair went stick straight again. Defiantly straight.

For countless homecomings, holidays, proms, sweetheart dances, and cotillions, all the other girls would turn out with their hair jacked to Jesus. They had hair that exceeded the frames of our school pictures. Hair that refused to move in any amount of gale-force wind. Then there was me.

Over the years we have tried pin curls, pink sponge rollers, hot rollers, curling irons, back combing, teasing, rats (the kind for hair fixin’ not for killin’), chemicals, a thing called a hot comb, the dreaded bonnet hair dryer, crimping, those spongy twisty sticks, sheer will, and a whole lot of Aqua Net to make my hair big. And it will get big, gloriously big ... for a little while. Then its stubborn straightness takes over making it point like an arrow to the ground.

An arrow bursting Mama’s big hair bubble.

But my mother will not accept defeat. And this Thanksgiving I was on her turf. With the turkey in the oven, appliances of hair torture at the ready, and time on our hands, it was time to try again.

That’s when the product came out. Applied only to the roots, mind you. Lifting the hair. You must lift the hair. Lift it.

Then came the heat. My right ear was nearly burnt slap off my head, but there is pain in beauty, y’all, and vicey versey. Deep, I know.

More heat. The pulling, tangling kind. The kind that feels like the devil is breathing his hot, sulfurous breath on the nape of your neck.

Then rollers. Lots of rollers. Unlike our hot rollers of yore, these Velcro thingies actually manage to grip my fine, wispy strands and bend them into submission. Plus they stick to your head so there’s no need to gouge those pin things into your scalp to get them to stay. Progress.

Then I had to go let it set for a while. That’s what the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade is for. And mimosas. You need something, for pity’s sake, to make you forget how your ear stings and remember that you are just a hair away from real beauty — big hair beauty.

Not quite an hour later, giddy with anticipation, and certainly not with the aforementioned mimosa, we unrolled our way to the big reveal.

Will it curl? Will it at least wave? Will all this time and effort and product and heat and Velcro be for naught?

Voila! Big hair for me. Well, sorta. Comparatively.

Now I know my hair will never rival Farrah’s famed mane, but it was bigger than it normally is. Really. Downright puffy, I’d say. And it lasted. All day. Even in the South Alabama humidity.

Oh, sweet victory! Thank you, Mama. MB

Born and raised in Citronelle, Atkins shares stories about growing up and living in the South in her book, “They Call Me Orange Juice,” and at her blog folkwaysnowadays.com.

excerpt from the book THEY CALL ME ORANGE JUICE by AUDREY

What was the Zimmer Memorial Home?

text by TOM MCGEHEE

In October of 1923, Catholic Bishop Edward Patrick Allen dedicated the Zimmer Memorial Institute at 2567 St. Stephens Road in Toulminville.

Across the South, the options for Black orphans were limited at best during this time, and the institute was determined to help them better their lives. A Catholic priest by the name of Zimmer in Brooklyn had studied the idea of creating a home for this purpose and donated $5,000 (nearly $90,000 today) for its establishment. I could find no other information about that generous benefactor nor if he went on to establish other homes.

The orphanage operated in the former residence of Peter Reynolds, an Irish-born farmer who had been operating a truck farm on the property since the 1870s. Numerous small farms in Mobile County produced seasonal crops which could be shipped to northern markets by train.

Within a short time, the Zimmer property was described as covering more than 12 acres and held vegetable gardens as well as a baseball diamond, swing sets, a pond for swimming and a volleyball and basketball court. In news articles, reporters described other occupants of the property as including three shaggy pet dogs and ducks.

The orphanage was generally overseen by a half dozen nuns and financed jointly by the Community Chest and the Bureau of Catholic Charities. Ultimately, the building housed up to 30 boys and girls with ages ranging from 2 to 18. The arrangement allowed siblings to stay together and differed from other orphanages which were organized by gender.

Half Orphans and Broken Homes

The children were not necessarily fully orphaned but were often “half orphans or from broken homes.” They were described as being “seriously underprivileged” and many were brought in by relatives unable to provide for them. In one case, a mother, abandoned by her abusive husband, dropped off her three children so that she could attend nursing school in New Orleans. In several cases, following a mother’s death, the father who could not take care of small children while holding a job enrolled them.

Relatives could visit one Sunday a month and the children were able to stay with them on another. A two-week visit with family members could also be scheduled each summer.

At the time of the opening, children would stay until they completed the eighth grade, at which time they would be returned to relatives. Family members could always retrieve children if their circumstances had changed to make it feasible to provide for them.

There were exceptions, however. One girl with no family stayed on and helped with the smaller children until she turned 18 and left for a nursing program. The age later would be extended to coincide with high school graduation. At that point, if no family was available, the Sisters would line them up with jobs.

The institute was linked with Prichard’s St. James Parish which operated a nearby school attended by the children. At one time, four out of the six nuns at Zimmer

Above The Zimmer Memorial Home operated out of a former farmhouse in Toulminville. After World War II, it was modernized. Nothing remains of it today. PHOTO COURTESY ERIK OVERBEY COLLECTION, THE DOY LEALE MCCALL RARE BOOK AND MANUSCRIPT LIBRARY, UNIVERSITY OF SOUTH ALABAMA

were teaching there while two attended to the youngest residents. Admission was not limited by religion, and children were free to attend Sunday services at other churches.

A Post-War Renovation

In 1946, the property was completely renovated, and a reporter visited what he described as being “a large white building with spacious dormitories, dining hall and a big sewing room.” He explained, “Qualities of neatness, cleanliness and order are instilled in the children…so that when they go out in the world, they are equipped to make a decent living.”

The dining room had been refinished in “cheerful plastic tile” and contained “small tables for a family atmosphere.” The meals were prepared by the Sisters “with the assistance of the older children.” Pollman’s Bakery donated a cake to celebrate each child’s birthday, and generous Mobilians collected an assortment of gifts for Christmastime.

Boys slept in “double-decker” beds while the girls had single beds. “Everyone makes their own bed and tends to their own clothing – and even the boys are taught to wash and iron their clothes.” A small room with two beds was described as “a seldom-used Infirmary Room.” A priest conducted daily services in a chapel on the property.

In 1965, the segregation of Catholic orphanages in Mobile ceased and what was then known as the Zimmer Home closed, merging with St. Mary’s Home on Moffett Road.

According to city directories, the property at 2567 St. Stephens Road was consistently listed as “vacant” through the 1987 edition. In 1988, the address vanished, and nothing remains of the Zimmer Home or the old Reynolds home place. Two nearby streets retain the Reynolds’ name. MB

American Laundry Company

courtesy Historic Mobile Preservation Society

IN 1905, THE AMERICAN LAUNDRY COMPANY opened under the management of John W. Phillips, A.L. Willoughby and Josiah H. Bancroft at 111-113 North Royal Street in downtown Mobile, pictured below. At that time, the early versions of today's modern washing machines had just started to be advertised in newspapers. The American Laundry Company offered the delivery of freshly washed garments to customers in companybranded horse-drawn carriages in addition to other services. According to Mobile city directories, the business moved location several times, finally settling at 359-361 St. Louis St. in 1937. It was listed at this address through 1945, eventually disappearing from the directory altogether the next year.

During the 1900s, both horse-drawn carriages, such as the delivery carriages for the American Laundry Company, and horse-drawn streetcars operated in Mobile. The streetcars ran along a line, such as the one at the botom of the photograph, much like trains and trolleys.

Mobile had horse-drawn streetcar lines running through the city, including one built in 1839 that connected Spring Hill to downtown Mobile.

Another line, built in 1877, remained in use for carriages untl 1893, when it was converted to a line for electric streetcars. It operated in that format untl 1941, giving way to the popularity of automobiles.

The year that Gulf City Cleaners opened in Mobile. The company is Mobile's oldest dry cleaner.

MONDAY

The most popular day of the week to wash clothes in the 1900s when the concept of a single washday per week was in fashion.

The year Hamilton Smith patented the rotary washing machine. The first electric washing machine wasn't invented untl 1908.

Do you know any further details about this photo? Let us know! Email azimlich@pmtpublishing.com.

The amount it would cost to buy 30 pounds of laundry soap in the 1900s. That's about $35 today.

Photo