The Quickest And Easiest Steps To Set-up The Simple Water Fuel-How It Works Water is pumped in order to replenish and maintain the liquid level
in
the
chamber.
The
electrodes are vibrated with a 0.5-5A electrical pulse, this pulse breaks 2(H2O) => 2H2 + O2. When the pressure reaches 60 psi, you will have to turn the key and go. Then step on the pedal, you send more energy to the electrodes, and thus more vapour to the cylinders. You will have to set the idle max-flow rate to get the most efficient use of power. No extra batteries will be required. Professional guidance is needed unless you pay attention to the following instructions in order to make your car run on water by yourself. You have to become aware that this is the next best thing for you and your car. The fuel price is rising on a constant basis and you will have to handle this without being ruined. Therefore, you should find the appropriate replacement for your car. The latest revolutionary discovery says that you can actually run your car on water in no time. You can do this by designing your own conversion kit that will make your car run on water. Your car will become the perfect tool for you to save the present environment and even reduce the dangerous global warming. Therefore, you should consider using water instead of the conventional fuels because this alternative fuel can make your car run even more efficiently than before. The amount of dangerous emissions will thus be reduced and you will keep the air cleaner. Your car will be extremely helpful when it comes to reducing the greenhouse effect because this effect is threatening us all. The next thing to be taken into account is
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that you can become eligible for a special tax break. So, every driver who has his car transformed into one that can on water will be eligible for the clean air credit. Regardless of your perspective, you should pay attention to the previous reasons because they can convince you to make a positive change in your life. STEP BY STEP CONSTRUCTION •
install the CHT (or EGT) gauge and measure your current operating temp range (gasoline), for comparison.
•
build and test the controller to verify the correct pulse output.
•
build the reaction chamber and test it with the controller.
•
install the tank, controller, chamber, and pressure fittings.
•
run engine and adjust the control circuit as necessary for best performance.
•
install the stainless steel valves and get the pistons/cylinders coated with ceramic.
•
coat the exhaust system with ceramic without the catalytic converter (or let it rust out and then replace the whole system with stainless steel pipe sections). The necessary materials
•
plastic water tank with pump and level sensor.
•
control circuit, wiring, connectors, and epoxy.
•
reaction chamber with electrodes and fittings.
•
3/8" stainless steel flex-tubing, fittings and clamps.
•
carb/FI vapour-pressure fitting kit. - pressure, CHT (or EGT), & level gauges.
•
stainless steel valves.
•
copper mesh junction.
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•
ceramic surface treatment for cylinders & pistons.
•
stainless steel or ceramic treated exhaust assembly. Afterwards, you will have to provide yourself with the necessary tools:
o
drill, screwdriver and pliers
o
hole cutter
o
wire-wrap, solder-iron and clippers
o
DVM and oscilloscope.
The proper housing of the conversion kit is of paramount importance. Here is a concise list of materials and you should take a better look at it in order to learn more about the components you need when planning to build the perfect housing for your hybrid system. So, let’s start with: •CPVC 4” threaded pipe nipple, length 12”, Schedule 80. •CPVC 4” pipe, length 12”, Schedule 80 (Only needed if housing height exceeds 10”). •CPVC 1‐ 1/2” pipe, length 12”, Schedule 80. •Two CPVC 4” Straight Couplings, Schedule 80 (Only one needed if the housing height will be 10”). You will also need the following materials: • one CPVC 4” cap, Schedule 80. • one CPVC 4” threaded cap, Schedule 80 • one 1/8” thick 24” x 48”, CPVC sheet • one 1” diameter, 6” length, CPVC rod • one pint can of CPVC cement • one pint can of primer • one 8 ounce can of pipe joint compound CPVC 4” Schedule 80 pipe is used to construct the Generator housing. Using a miter box or table saw to assure square ness, cut off one of the 12” pipe nipple threaded
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ends 2,3/4” from the end. Dress the cut edges with sandpaper or a fine tooth file. Using a miter box or table saw to assure square ness, cut the threaded pipe nipple 5,1/2”from one of its threaded ends. Dress the cut edges with sandpaper or a fine tooth round file. After priming, apply cement as soon as possible, to obtain safe and reliable bonding and do not let the primer dry before applying cement. Prime the outside mating surface of the cut end of the 5,1/2” pipe nipple and one of the inside mating surfaces of the coupling. Apply an even layer of cement right to the primed surfaces and assemble the parts. Allow the parts to air dry for at least 10 minutes. Then, prime the outside mating surface of the 12” pipe and inside mating surface of the coupling attached to the pipe nipple. Apply an even layer of cement to the primed surfaces and assemble the parts. Allow the parts to air dry for at least 30 minutes before going further. Using a metre box or table saw to assure square ness, cut the pipe assembly near the unthreaded end to form a total pipe length equal to ½” less than the housing height. Dress the cut edges with sandpaper. Then measure the inside diameter of the threaded end cap. Securely clamp 1/8” thick CPVC sheet to a drill press bed. Drill a ½” diameter hole through the sheet. By using a fly cutter, cut a disk with the measured diameter. Check that the disk fits snugly into the end cap. Be sure to drill a ½” hold first if a new disk is cut. Cut a second disk to the correct diameter with ½” centre hole; then, apply primer, and then cement, to one surface of each disk and join the disks together and align the disk edges and wipe excess cement from the edges. Then, allow the disks to air dry for an hour before going further. Bevel the edges of the disk to fit the curved contour of the bottom of the end cap and be sure the outer edge of the disk measures between 1/32” and 1/16” after bevelling. Then, lightly coat the threads of the housing end cap, and bottom edge of the housing, with petroleum jelly, apply some primer right to the mating surfaces of the disk and end cap.
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Then apply cement right to the primed area of the end cap only and install the disk by seating it firmly and evenly. Afterwards, remove any cement that oozes from between the parts with cotton swabs then temporarily thread the end cap onto the housing, seating it slowly, but firmly. Wait about 20 minutes for the cement to partially dry, remove the end cap. Repeat the procedure. Apply primer right to the mating surfaces of the disk and end cap, apply cement to the primed area of the end cap only and install the disk, seating it firmly and evenly. Remove any cement that oozes from between the parts with some cotton swabs. Then, seal the ½” hole in the threaded end cap disk with electrical tape. By using a stiff bristle brush and some warm soapy water, clean the petroleum jelly from all the threads and all other areas of the end cap and housing. Then rinse all parts with warm water. Remove electrical tape from the threaded end cap. Allow the end caps to air dry for at east 8 hours before going further. You may continue by completely covering the inside surfaces of both end caps with strips of electrical tape. Then, cut away tape to open up the ½” hold in each disk. You will have to purchase a high quality, high temperature, and waterproof epoxy cement to fill the end cap cavities. The reaction chamber Use a section of 4" PVC waste pipe with a threaded screw-cap fitting on one end and a standard end-cap at the other. Set and control the water level in the chamber so that it well submerses the pipe electrodes; yet leave some headroom to build up the hydrogen/oxygen
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vapour pressure. Then use some stainless steel wires right inside the chamber or try to use a protective coating; use insulated wires outside. You have to ensure that the epoxy perfects the seal; lay down a bead of water-proof silicone that can hold pressure. The screw fitting can require soft silicone sealant; its purpose is to hold the necessary pressure thus allowing periodic inspection of the electrodes. You will have to make sure that you get a symmetric 1-5mm gap between the 2 stainless steel pipes. Then,
make
the
solder
connections
at
the
wire/electrode junctions nice, smooth, and solid; then try and apply the water-proof coating, e.g. the epoxy you use for joining the pipes to the screw cap. The epoxy must be waterproof; it must be capable of holding metal to plastic under pressure. The control circuit You have to make the 'square-pulse' signal that 'plays' the electrodes like a tuning fork; you have to generate pulses. The output-switching transistor must be rated for 1-5 amps @ 12VDC (in saturation). You will have to go with a plan that works for you; you can get all the circuit elements from your local electronics store. For instance, you can purchase the Radio-Shack or Circuits-R-Us, including the circuit board, IC sockets, and enclosure/box. Throttle Control If you are provided with a throttle position sensor, then you should be able to access the necessary signal from the sensor itself OR from the computer connector. This signal is input to this circuit as the primary control. If you are not provided with such a signal available, you must rig a rotary POT (variable resistor) to the gas linkage running to the carb or FI. If you make this attachment at the carb/FI, you will have to be sure to use a POT that can handle the engine temp cycles. The full throttle RANGE
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(idle-max) MUST control the vapour rate. The resistor values at the throttle signal must allow the throttle signal voltage to drive the VAPOR RATE. You are likely to use this voltage swing in order to generate a 10% ON 'square' pulse. In this circuit, you will simply tune to whatever frequency makes the most efficient vapour conversion. You will have to get into the specs for each IC you use in order to insure you connect the right pins to the right wires, in order to control the frequency and pulse width. You can use all the spare sockets in order to try out different discrete component values. You crank up the throttle signal; put more electrical energy (fatter pulses) into the Electrodes then verify you can get 10% duty on the scope. Set and connect DVM in the supply current and measure 5 amps, without blowing the DVM fuse. Verify your wiring connections by using your DVM as a continuity detector then check your wiring 1 at a time and yellow line your final schematic as you go. The LEDs are there to give you a quick visual check of normal vs. abnormal operation of the new hybrid creation. You have to know that a precise throttle adjustment is likely to be quite easy by using the special feature of the water hybrid system throttle assembly. Here you have the
best method around: You will have to disengage the arm right from the throttle rod. Then try and rotate the pot shaft through the total range of rotation required in order to go from idle to full power. By using a ruler, you should measure and even record the total distance travelled by the entire tip of the throttle rod as the pot is rotated. You should continue by rotating the pot shaft right to its midpoint of rotation; afterwards, position the throttle linkage at its midpoint of travel. Then slide the arm onto the throttle rod and attach the arm and sleeve right onto the throttle linkage with hose clamps. Then raise or even lower the pot by rotating its mounting bracket about Ÿ� bolt until the throttle linkage moves through its full range of travel. If you find it necessary, you
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may obtain some obtain added distance between the pot and arm because the arm and sleeve assembly can be inverted to position the arm right above the linkage. In order to assure smooth operation without possible binding, you have to make sure that the throttle rod is squared right with the surface of the arm when the linkage is at its midpoint of travel. If you find it necessary, you can try and rotate the pot body within the limits of the 3/32” slot; you can even rotate the sleeve about the axis of the linkage until the entire throttle rod is square with the arm. Then, you may continue by adjusting idle to desired speed. You have to try and operate the throttle through several cycles in order to verify smooth operation without possible binding. You should firmly tighten mounting bolts, hose clamps, and even the pot retaining nut. With the throttle at idle position, you will have to trim the throttle rod to length so that it protrudes about ¼” above the system arm. You will have to square the rod end with a file and debar with some sandpaper. Then, you should mix a small quantity of epoxy and apply into the 3/32” slot in the area of the anti rotation pin in order to secure the pot against rotation. Still, you have to pay attention to some aspects in order to take proper care of the hybrid system. You will have to maintain it in a perfect condition in order not to affect the proper performance of the car. For instance, you will have to pay attention to the followings and you will have to do it while driving: •
You must make sure that the leds are operating.
•
You have to make sure that the Green PWR ON lights when power is ON and is not lit when power is OFF.
•
You will have to make sure that the green PUMP ON and yellow GEN WATER LOW both light when the water pump is running and are not lit at all other times.
•
You have to make sure that the red TANK WATER LOW is not lit when tank water level is more than about 1/3 full, and blinks when water falls below that level. You have to take care of all these aspects in order to guarantee the proper functioning pattern of the leds. If they are not working as they should, you will have to
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troubleshoot in order to locate the defective component or wiring error. You will have to repair or even replace as necessary So, let us congratulate you for the best hybrid system installed on your beloved car. Still, you will have to firmly tighten hose clamps on all fittings and you have to do it after 27 hours of driving. The carb/fi connection There are ready-made kits available for making the pressure fittings to the carburettor or fuel-injector as the case may be. You will have to seal the built-in vents thus making a 1-way air-intake. The copper mesh will comprise the inadvertent backfire' protection for the reaction chamber. You will have to make sure that all vapour/duct junctions are air-tight and holding full pressure without any leakage. Your new 'system' is considered successful and properly adjusted when you are likely to get the full power range at lower temp and minimum vapour flow without having to blow the pressure safety valve. CHT Monitor the engine temp with the well known CHT or the cylinder head temp instead of the original engine temp indicator. The existing gauge is too slow for the application and will not warn the driver against overheating until after he has burnt something. He will have to make sure that his engine runs no hotter than in the gasoline arrangement. VDO makes the CHT gauge with a platinum sensor that fits under the spark plug against the cylinder head; the driver has to make sure it is clean before he re-installs the spark plug. The engine/exhaust treatment
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You should continue by getting the necessary valves replaced with stainless steel ones; get the ceramic pistons/cylinders as soon as you have successfully converted and run the new creation. Do not delay because these items are likely to rust, either by sheer use or by neglect. You should make max use of the car current exhaust system by using it with the new deal until it rusts through; then try and have the mechanic to fit a stainless steel exhaust pipe. No catalytic converter is likely to be required. But it could be easier and cheaper to send the already existing exhaust system out for the ceramic treatment; then continue by simply re-attaching it right to the exhaust ports. Next, you should pay attention to the following pieces of information in order to maintain the hybrid system in the proper shape:
You can install it on every
type of car;
for instance, you can use it for
vans,
trucks, diesel powered cars and
SUVs. Still,
this system was not tested on the
latest
hybrids and you should not try to
test
it
by
yourself if you own such a hybrid;
Your car is likely to become cost/effective and you will not
have
to
spend huge amounts of money for
fuel.
The
car will produce clearer emissions
too
and
you will become a part of the eco-
friendly
community in no time. You have
to become
aware that an ordinary car run on conventional fuel is going to affect the environment sooner or later especially if you are keen on driving for long distances. Therefore, this is your chance to do something for your environment. The amazing thing about this car is that you will not have to waste extra efforts in order to reach the final result. On the contrary, the conversion kit can be build in no time and without spending a fortune.
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You can convert the car you own for one of the lowest prices. There is a wide
range of conversion kits available on the current market. Still, you should choose the one that comes next because the best features will be provided at a reasonable cost. The conversion kit can work with the plainest tap water and you will not need
special water additives and distilled water. The whole process is a very simple one and the steps are easy to follow even if
you are not a professional. Actually, the beauty of the system resides in its cheap components and its wide availability. You should stop wondering about the effectiveness of the water powered car because you can run such a car without having any difficulty. The technology is affordable and easy; water can be used as the necessary supplement to the conventional fuels and you will need a small quantity in order to make your car run. Actually, only a quart of this plain water is going to provide over 1000 gallons of brown gas and this brown gas will increase the vehicle efficiency. The emissions quality will be improved as well and you will be saving your money in no time. do not discard or remove any of the old gasoline setup components, e.g. tank,
carb/FI, catalytic converter. Leave an easy way to revert back to something that at least runs. Just try and have a backup plan. set the throttle circuit so that you get minimum vapour flow at idle, and
maximum vapour flow at full power without having to blow the pressure relief valve. In this way, you can control how 'lean' the mixture is by the strength of the pulse. If the driver does not get enough power, it means that he needs to change the
pulse frequency, change the gap between the electrodes, change the size of the electrodes, or make a higher output pulse voltage. If he gets any engine knock our loud combustions, it means that he will need to
install an additional coil in the chamber, and drive the coil with an additional pulse signal.
He will have to build the canister(s) as tall as he can without compromising his ability to mount them conveniently near the dash panel. This way, he can always make the electrodes bigger, if necessary without undue hardship. The driver has to remember that that anything in the engine compartment should be mounted in a bullet-proof, vibration and temperature tolerant fashion.
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