9 minute read
10 MINUTES with RYAN POOLE
WINNER of 2023 AMBA Best Men’s Collection -
BY Louise May
Originally from New Zealand, Ryan Poole has called Brisbane home for the past 12 years. His family expected him to go straight to university, but since he couldn’t access government loans, he had to pay for his studies himself. Halfway through a business degree, he found out he was going to be a dad at 19. This made him rethink his choices. Should he keep studying business, getting into debt in a field he didn’t love, or find another way to support his new family?
Ryan’s journey changed at Esquire Male Grooming; the first salon that made him care about hair. Nathan, a barber there, taught him how to use a blow dryer and the best products for his style. Ryan adopted a pompadour or loose slick back, inspired by his love for the Arctic Monkeys and the cool look of their frontman, Alex Turner. He enjoyed going to the salon so much that he decided to try barbering as a career.
He went in for a job interview with his six-month-old son Finn on his shoulder and started his apprenticeship right away. Balancing full-time parenthood with his apprenticeship was challenging and required constant adaptation. This June marks his sixth anniversary with Esquire, a milestone he’s grateful for, especially for the support from Mark, which has been key in helping him master barbering despite some tough times.
We chat with Ryan about his industry journey, his collections, and some fun stuff...
When did you realise you were good at this, and what motivates you and keeps you inspired?
Well realistically, everyone has the potential to thrive in this industry, if they’re hungry enough! I was fortunate enough to be picked up by a great shop, run by a great guy. Mark’s approach with Esquire, gave me the confidence and drive to be more than just a guy with a Certificate 3 in barbering. The focus for myself and my colleagues at Esquire is constant education and continually improving your skillset.
I’ve been in the industry for six years, but with all the knowledge I’m yet to learn, I still feel green. We also have a fun day shooting our annual shop collection, allowing us to get creative. Seeing the incredible shots coming out of these collections, inspired me to dive further into the world of editorial styling and shooting.
My exposure to the finalist galleries, coming out of the AHIA’s, has always been incredibly inspiring to me. Whether it’s the use of abstract wardrobe pieces, interesting lighting, creative makeup, or incredible camera angles and effects, something clicked, and I decided that I want to further explore editorial work; to create interesting, thought-provoking concept shoots.
I really wanted to lean into that obscure side of creativity. I jumped right in and had a crack at my first photoshoot in 2022, and decided to take a chance, and submit for the Best Men’s Classic Collection for the AMBA’s; to my surprise and delight, I was a finalist. I think that securing my position as a finalist assured me I was heading in the right direction, and I’ve stayed hungry since!
You won 2023 AMBA Best Men’s Collection Classic, and you were just named finalist for the 2024 AHIA Creatives - Men’s Hair Specialist of the Year. Can you walk us through the process of conceptualising a collection and executing it from start to finish?
Yeah well, it’s funny - I always find myself in this endless loop of wrapping up a shoot and loving it so much, that I immediately start planning the next shoot concept in my head! Haha... I’m heavily inspired by music and the impact it’s had on me, in my life. In the 9 years I’ve been collecting records, I’ve clocked over 200 so far! My 2023 AMBA collections, Street Worms (Best Men’s Collection - Classic) and Sound of Silver (Barber of the Year Collection) are both albums that I adore and wanted to replicate the feeling I get when I listen to them.
Street Worms is a gritty punk album by Viagra Boys, that is equal parts erratic, filthy and carelessly cool. For this shoot, I wanted to recreate those elements, I adore off the record.
We managed to capture this dirtbag attitude, based on the fashion pieces we used, alongside the posing. Sound of Silver, on the other hand, is the complete opposite. James Murphy, LCD Soundsystem frontman, wanted to create an album that sounded like “like silver” so he ended up covering the studio in silver fabrics, foil, and silver trinkets, to encompass the studio in this glistening atmosphere. I read that and thought “why not make that a shoot concept?”
With my most recent collection, Boys Don’t Cry, I wanted to delve into a deeper concept, relevant to more current societal issues. I wanted this series of images to say something and start a conversation.
This collection is incredibly personal to both me and my amazing partner Sarah @makemeoverartistry and has become something we’re incredibly proud of.
The concept was inspired by themes surrounding toxic masculinity and society’s continued, abhorrent inability to allow men to openly express emotion and vulnerability.
The way in which men express depression is often external, through anger or violence. It is the age-old Aussie mentality around masculinity, defined by one’s ability to “toughen up” and “be a man” and the conversation for change must start now. I’ve found in a grim sense of hindsight since shooting this collection.
This concept feels more relevant than it should when you see the horrific crisis we’re facing this year, by the increasing number of women being killed by men in this country. I want to use these platforms to share what’s on my mind. Once you have a general concept, that’s when you start mood-boarding. The most important principle in a photoshoot is cohesion, and visual mood boarding is a great way to see if your concept all flows together.
You start looking at more than just the haircuts you want to display. This is when you consider your looks in makeup and wardrobe, to elevate your overall concept, and tell a story. You start looking at lighting options and different ways your photography could look, maybe it’s the poses you want to direct models to do on the day.
The more in-depth a mood board is, the clearer your idea will be! Shoot days are always a lot of fun but I still find them super hectic. I will organise a run sheet with all my models, times for MUA, Stylist and Photographer, at least two weeks beforehand.
One thing I learned on my recent shoot was that you don’t have to style the hair as it’s been cut. Shoot your look then take the model back and try something completely different with the hair. It’s your day and your vision so don’t be afraid to get weird with it!
LET’S TALK ABOUT TOOLS!!
Scissors… What do you love and why?
Since the beginning of my apprenticeship, I was given a second-hand pair of Toyo 6” scissors and I absolutely loved them. After almost 6 years of service, they’ve recently been retired, so I decided to purchase a pair of the Excellent Edges “Hawk” scissors. They’ve been great for all my precision cutting as well as slide cutting for that softer texture I love showcasing in my work.
Machines… What do you love and why?
At the Barber Expo this April, I picked up a pair of Heiniger Sirius clippers. They’ve been amazing all-around clippers. They can cut through even the thickest hair with ease, but they’re also great for freehand fading. I’ve found a cool trick with these clippers: using the slower speed setting and using a slower flicking motion to get out any pesky lines.
Since I got these clippers, I’ve even become a content creator for Heiniger, and I can’t wait for what the future holds with this company. I also found a great new hairdryer at the Expo, the No Ego. It’s sleek and fits perfectly in my travel bag. What surprised me most is how powerful it is for its size. The way you can reverse the motor to clean the filter is unheard of!
What does your ideal Sunday look like?
Anything past a 6am wake-up is always ideal. A game of golf paired with a sleep-in is too good to be true.
What are you watching on Netflix/Stan right now?
I just finished Baby Reindeer and now I need to have a long, hot shower to feel clean again.
Favourite style of Music?
I’ve been gravitating back towards modern psych-rock bands. The Black Angels, Osees and Frankie and the Witch Fingers have been on heavy rotation. If you got this far, please send me more recommendations!
Favourite food?
A warm bowl of ramen, especially coming into the cooler time of year, just hits the spot every time.
Favourite Drink?
Pint of VB please.
Favourite holiday destination?
I love Germany! Munich and Berlin have been some of the most memorable places I’ve travelled to. The history in Munich is fascinating but pairing it with fantastic food and beer halls justifies multiple trips. Berlin on the other hand has so much going on at any time and any day.
What advice do you have for emerging talent in the Barbering industry?
I think that whatever your goals in this industry might be; whether it’s money, chasing brand deals or shooting editorial work, you should never stop learning. I love going to as many workshops as I can fit in. I’m always finding myself either picking up something new or refamiliarising myself with concepts I’ve forgotten. I know that’s what helped me avoid my burnout.
Have a chat with your manager or your boss about helping you out with costs for courses if that’s a concern. We work in an industry that can, at times, feel quite routine with the haircuts we do but to learn something new, can very easily break that feeling and get you inspired again. Develop a passion for learning and you’ll never cease growing.
@_ryanpoole_hair @esqmalegrooming
