BREAKING DOWN AN INSPO PHOTO

By Kristie Kesic

Inspo photos are the best source of information a client can bring into the salon in relation to communicating the desired look they want to achieve. But what they don’t always understand is there is so many layers to that photo and that’s where it is up to us as hairdressers and colourists to break it down and give them a realistic outcome.

Breaking down a photo is something so many colourists skip over and in turn get wrong. This only leads to client disappointment. Many may think, perfect my client has brought in a photo so that equates to an in-depth consultation. For some it’s that mentality of this is what they want this is what I’ll give them.

But you need to decide, what exactly does your client like about the photo, will it suit their skin tone and features, will it suit their lifestyle and maintenance commitments, how is the inspo pic styled, do they understand the effects of lighting on this photo, oh the list goes on. This is why clients bringing in a photo is just one part of a proper consultation.

I’m going to give you some things to talk through with your client to break down an inspo pic.

What do they like about the inspo pic.

An inspo pic might be a celebrity, a picture from social media, a full-face photo or just a photo of the hair. First thing you need to establish is what your client likes about the photo. Get them to point it out, as there can be several colours in the photo.

Do they like the tone, do they like the texture, do they like the fact that it just looks shinny. This will tell you a lot about what they really want, and you can start thinking about how you can achieve this for them.

Inspo model natural base shade VS Client natural base shade.

A big one, because your clients natural base shade will affect the result you can achieve with colour. Clients tend to bring in blonde colour with clients that have light natural base shades. You need to bring this to their attention and incorporate what their natural base shade is into the conversation.

A client might want a pastel violet, but their base shade is too dark to achieve the level of lift required to support a pastel violet. They might want a bright colour, but their base shade is too dark to achieve lift and vibrance in a onestep tint colour application, so you then need to lighten and lift and then colour, which turns into a colour correction not just an all over colour. Clients’ base vs inspo picture base will also affect maintenance of a colour.

If your client has artificial colour in their hair compared to all-natural hair.

Just like above this will affect if you can achieve the desired result from the inspo pic in one session or it may need a few. Be very realistic with this one. Under promise and over deliver. If you do the other way around your setting yourself up for failure.

Your client’s hair texture and density vs the inspo

Different textures, different hair condition, different thickness, different lengths, will all heavily affect how colour looks in the hair. Just because you give your client the inspo colour, doesn’t mean it’s going to look the exact same if they have a opposite hair type to the inspo pic. Bring this to their attention.

How the inspo photo is styled VS how your client styles their hair

How the hair is styled will completely change how hair colour looks. Dimension will look so different in waved hair compared to straightened hair. Hair shine will reflect differently in straighten hair compared to curled hair. Colour will look different if there is product in the hair and styled compared to if it’s left to dry naturally.

Clients skin tone and features

Your client may love the colour in an inspo pic because its suits the person that has the colour. It suits their skin tone, and it flatters their facial features, but if your client doesn’t have a skin tone that will compliment said colour, the colour will not look good on them. It’s important to educate your client of complimenting colours and ensure you give them a colour that flatters them. Don’t be afraid to bring this to their attention BUT always have suggestions and explain why.

Client lifestyle and maintenance

Making your client look the best version of themselves is your number one goal. This includes giving them a colour that suits their lifestyle, and a colour they can maintain.

You can bring me all the inspo photos you want, but if you bring me an inspo photo that will require a 6-week maintenance and you are a 12-week maintenance person, it’s never going to be a good option. You bring me a vibrant copper, yet you swim every day, no matter how good my colour is, it’s not going to last. You also need to educate your client on home hair care so they can maintain their hair.

Everyone sees colour differently

Talk through what colours and tones your clients sees in the photo because they might be seeing different to you. It’s not uncommon that clients bring in several photos thinking they all look the same, but they all look different to you. It’s important to voice this so when colours do look different in lighting, with styling, with products your client will still be happy.

Filters

Do you take photos with a filter on? Filters will affect hair colour. May seem obvious but you would be surprised how many people over the years since filters are a massive thing have messaged saying their colour looks different to what they wanted or a photo and send me a photo of themselves and then the inspo pic and their pic clearly has a filter on it. Don’t be fooled and don’t assume every client will understand this so bring it into the consultation.

Overall, no matter what inspo pic your client brings there’s some very important things you need to remember that over right any want of a client. You need to prioritise the integrity of your client’s hair above all else. You need to be open an honest with them and you need to give realistic and educated advise. Most importantly you need to make your client feel and look the most beautiful version of themselves.

Use the inspo picture as just that, inspo. Don’t just copy it. Break it down and personalise it to YOUR client and make your client feel their new hair is now an inspo pic of its own and you have created a colour that is personalised to them.