Material Girl

FASHION Material Girl

How designers innovate with sustainable fabrics

Written and Styled by Jane Houseal, Fashion Editor Modeled by Leanne Blum | Photographed by Luc Marchessault, Staff Photographer

The pressure for the fashion industry to become more sustainable has continued to increase over the last couple of years, and designers, brands and fashion councils have taken steps toward a more eco-friendly future. For Autumn/Winter 2023 collections, the Copenhagen Fashion Week council created an action plan with over 18 sustainability criteria for participating designers, including banning animal-fur.1

It may be obvious from the many criteria Copenhagen Fashion Week provided, but there are numerous steps to sustainability. When it comes to clothing, choosing the right fabrics is one of them. A sustainable fabric choice can make a product that lasts longer, creates less waste and causes less overall environmental harm.

One type of sustainable fabrics are those that are derived from plant-based fibers. These fabrics include recycled cotton, organic hemp and organic linen, among others. It is also common for sustainable designers to seek out deadstock fabric, fabric that is no longer being produced, or use recycled materials.

Advancements in technology have led to new, innovative fabrics such as artificial silk which is made by bees, or solar fabric that intends to produce more energy than it took to create.2 Designers sometimes even opt to not use fabric at all, instead using material that would otherwise be waste such as plastic bags, soda-can tabs and other various pieces of trash.

Here are a few designers, new and established, that are making waves in the fashion industry with the materials they use:

Alexandra Sipa

Fashion designer Alexandra Sipa and entrepreneur Lucas Baker founded their brand, Alexandra Sipa, on principles of “trans-

1 Bella Webb, “Can Fashion Shows Ever Be Sustainable?,” Vogue Business, March 4, 2022, ; Rachel Cernansky, “Copenhagen Fashion Week Bans Fur as Animal Rights and Sustainability Merge,” Vogue Business (Vogue Business, August 8, 2022), 2 Ben Schiller, “”5 Weird Fabrics That Could Cut Fashion’s Footprint,” Fast Company, September 13, MODA | 32

parency; ingenuity; and environmental, economic, and social sustainability.”3 With a goal of transforming waste into luxury textiles, Sipa designs intricate garments utilizing unlikely materials such as discarded electrical materials from demolished buildings and old beach towels. She manipulates the wires to create colorful lace inspired by Romanian culture; specifically, the idea that even the most mundane objects should be treated like treasure and kept for a lifetime.4

Some of the looks in her graduate collection, “Romanian Camouflage,” include an abstract floral bustier held up with pink velvet straps, a vibrant a-line dress finished off with point lace (a Romanian technique) and a backless dress covered in voluminous ruffles.5 All of these looks, along with the rest of the collection, are created using electrical wire-turned lace. “Romanian Camouflage” aims to make a small dent in decreasing e-waste.6

Sipa’s most recent Spring/Summer 2023 collection, “Unlikely Kings,” also incorporates wire lace and a variety of other repurposed materials. “Unlikely Kings” is just as dreamy as “Romanian Camouflage,” but with an edgy twist. Think floor-length watercolor gowns, double-buckle pleated mini skirts and 3-D appliqué of bows and flowers.7 With her unique designs and innovative use of materials, Sipa proves that even the most unexpected items can have a glorious second life.

Anna Molinari

Influencer and designer Anna Molinari got her start in the most Gen Z way possible: by sharing her provocative designs on TikTok. She began by posting simple sewing videos and eventually showed her first collection at New York Fashion Week.8 Now, Moli-

3 “About - Alexandra Sipa,” ABOUT - alexandra sipa, accessed September 3, 2022, https:// alexandrasipa.com/ABOUT. 4 Jennifer Hahn |15 September 2020 Leave a comment, “Alexandra Sipa Weaves Discarded Electrical Wires Together like Lace for Graduate Fashion Collection,” Dezeen, September 15, 2020. 5 Ibid. 6 Ibid. 7 “Episode 2 Uncertain Kings - Alexandra Sipa,” EPISODE 2 UNCERTAIN KINGS - alexandra sipa, accessed September 3, 2022. 8 “How Going Viral on TikTok Led to a Sellout New York Fashion Week Show,” ChatterBlast, nari continues to work on her slow fashion brand, Instinct Brand, which encourages consumers’ instinct to shop sustainably.

Molinari creates garments from a huge variety of repurposed materials, including a Juul Pod under-bust corset and a soda can tab dress. Her designs are intended to inspire this generation to find sustainable solutions and ultimately, “Unfuck the World,” which is the name of her latest collection.9 One of her most popular creations is a Met-Gala-inspired dress made out of 2020 newspapers. The gown showcases all the impactful headlines from the year and comments on how much more effort is needed to make the world more just.10 Among her other designs are structured sailing line corsets, matching sets made out of plastic bags and extravagant tooth-pick chokers. Though the future of fashion may not always include repurposed trash the way Molinari does, her political designs serve as motivation to work toward a better future.

Stella McCartney

Stella McCartney often comes to mind when thinking of sustainable fashion. Her collections consistently experiment and pave the way for sustainable luxury fashion. Each detail of McCartney’s brand is thought out—past collections have featured organic cotton, ethically-sourced wool, regenerated cashmere and more.11 In both her Spring/ Summer 2022 collection and in her brand’s swimwear line she used ECONYL, a new regenerated nylon material.12

McCartney’s most recent Resort 2023 collection was her most sustainable show yet, with 85% of the collection produced sustainably. 13 The collection, “Rewilding and Rechilding,” utilized many different textiles—although grape leather may be the

February 10, 2022. 9 Emerald Pellot, “Gen Z Fashion Designer Anna Molinari Makes Chic Looks out of Recycled Trash,” In The Know, March 12, 2021. 10 “How Going Viral on TikTok Led to a Sellout New York Fashion Week Show,” ChatterBlast, February 10, 2022. 11 “Top 7 Sustainable Fashion Designers Making a Change in 2022,” Motif, September 8, 2022. 12 “Stella McCartney’s Summer 2019 Collection,” Econyl, October 31, 2018. 13 Nicole Phelps, “Stella McCartney Resort 2023,” Vogue, May 26, 2022.

most interesting. Grape leather is made from grape waste produced during the wine making process. McCartney used grape leather to make funky trainers and bags as unique as the material they are made of.14 Though McCartney is already known in the fashion industry for her sustainability, she is one to continue to watch, as she never settles when it comes to finding sustainable fashion solutions.

Phoebe English

Phoebe English is a womenswear and menswear designer that has implemented sustainability into every aspect of her brand, specifically focusing on designing out waste from the start and exploring the potential to make textiles and textile waste circular. English also pays careful attention to the chemical components of the fabrics she uses by experimenting with plant dyes.15 English takes into consideration how the clothing and fabric is constructed and the item’s capacity for longevity.16 Long-lasting clothing is a true hallmark of sustainability.

English’s Spring/Summer 2021 collection used zero-virgin fabrics and dyed fabrics with locally-sourced materials. English and her team collected acorns on their way to work to create a black and blue-black color, and used avocado stones from nearby cafés to create a terracotta color. 17 The result is beautifully colored fabrics that pull the collection together perfectly. English’s approach to sustainability is meticulous and thorough, and her willingness to research and appreciate the slower aspects of sustainable fashion makes her a brilliant industry leader. Her commitment has also earned the designer recognition, as Phoebe English was recently awarded the Marie Claire Sustainability Award for Best Sustainable Design Brand.18 ■

14 Ibid. 15 “About - Phoebe English,” Phoebe English, 2022. 16 Jessica Davis, “Phoebe English: How the industry needs to change to be truly sustainable,” November 28, 2019. 17 Sarah Mower, “Phoebe English Spring 2021 Ready-to-Wear,” September 22, 2020. 18 “About - Phoebe English,” Phoebe English, 2022.