The New Meaning of a Fashion Statement

SOCIAL ACTIVISM THROUGH FASHION Written by Manon Bushong, Fashion Editor Graphic by Sammy Meyerson, Contributing Graphic Artist

When AOC flaunted a dress at the Met Gala that read “tax the rich,” it sparked a lot of controversy. A considerable reason why this look was so heavily judged stems from the fact that she wore it to an event with tickets priced at a steep $35,000. Some praised her for pushing a political agenda, but others felt the effort was tone-deaf.

Does incorporating activism into the realm of fashion always need to feel forced and insincere? Or can this be an effective way to shed light on important topics to high volumes of people?

When we acknowledge that fashion, at its core, is a form of art, it makes perfect sense why we frequently see it used to articulate deeper meaning. One designer who uses her platform to spark conversation is Tracy Reese. Reese accompanied her Fall 2017 Ready to Wear runway show with young female poets’ reciting their work.1 These words exemplified her designs, all of which aimed to appeal to fashionable yet professional women. Rationing her spotlight with these writers made it clear how much Reese values empowering young women. Additionally, Reese organized for “Fashion Stands with Planned Parenthood” pins to be handed out at official New York Fashion Week venues,2 an ultimately well-received initiative.

Reese has also been a strong force in the sustainable fashion movement. In 2019 she created a label called Hope for Flowers. The garments for this label are in part manufactured in Michigan, a location Reese hopes one day will be the primary location for sustainable clothing production in the United States.3

Designers appending issues to the display of their collections the way that Reese did is one form of fusing fashion

¹ Emily Farra, “Tracy Reese Fall 2017 Ready-toWear,” Vogue Runway, 2017. ² Ibid. ³ Elizabeth Segran, “Move over L.A. Detroit is gunning to become America’s next Garment District,” Fast Company, 2021. MODA | 40

and activism. However, there are some people whose entire careers lie in bettering the fashion industry itself. Featured in Forbes Europe’s 30 under 30 - Technology, Eshita Kabra has made a name for herself in fashion while also minimizing clothing waste.4 Kabra is the founder of By Rotation, a growing app for borrowing and lending clothing.5 This app offers a powerful solution to combating the overconsumption problem that has led to major environmental consequences, while also satisfying those who love to constantly change up their wardrobes. The app is super community oriented; all of the pieces come from users rather than being owned by the app itself. This approach has appealed to over 100,000 users in the UK,6 and has played a crucial role sparking a change in the way we consume.

On a similar note, Hunter Shafer launched her name through her role on HBO’s cult series “Euphoria,” but her career began in New York when she was full time modeling after being scouted by the agency Elite.7 While Shafer has said numerous times she does not consider herself an activist, she is extremely vocal about her experience as a transgender woman and advocates heavily for the LGBTQ+ community.

In 2016, the then 17-year-old Shafer participated as a plaintiff to a lawsuit against North Carolina’s discriminatory “bathroom bill,” which did not protect LGBTQ+ folks againstant discrimination laws.8 Fast forward to 2021, when Shafer became a Met Gala showstopper in an extremely Alienlike 1999 Prada gown.9 Recently, she

⁴ “30 Under 30 Europe 2021 - Technology,” Forbes, 2021. ⁵ Eshita Kabra-Davies, “Founder of By Rotation: from side hustle to six figure business,” Drapers, 2021. ⁶ Ibid. ⁷ Leigh Nordstrom, “Hunter Schafer, Hollywood’s New Obsession From the Fashion World,” WWD, 2019. ⁸ Katherine Cusumano, “Rising Model Hunter Schafer Is Fighting for the Future of Trans Individuals On and Off the Runway,” W Magazine, 2018. ⁹ Laura Regensdorf, “How Hunter Schafer Slipped into an Alien Alter-Ego for the 2021 Met Gala,” Vanity Fair, 2021. also became the face of Prada, starring in an elegant and retro campaign for their new Prada Galleria handbag.10 The growth of Shafer’s career has not altered her outspokenness on issues relating to LGBTQ+ rights. She has gone above and beyond in her “Euphoria” role as a transgender teenage girl, offering a sort of raw and unparalleled form of representation for the young trans community.

Although activism appears to be taking the fashion industry by storm, it is important to note that some brands will instigate campaigns merely as PR stunts. Following the murder of George Floyd, it felt as though every company was taking to social media to announce their support of the Black Lives Matter movement. When sustainable LA clothing company Reformation participated in this Instagram phenomenon, they faced immediate backlash after numerous employees came forward with examples of the company’s racist work environment.11 Unfortunately, this situation highlights how insincere and ill-motivated company statements about social justice can be, and emphasizes how—beyond statements—action is a crucial aspect of brand activism.

Activism within the fashion realm has been undoubtedly on the rise. While there is certainly a phony aura to a considerable amount of acts of social justice performed by designers, models and influencers, we cannot let this hinder the real change that those with powerful platforms have brought about. Whether it be a designer sharing their spotlight, an entrepreneur engineering a new way to dress sustainably or a model who uses their influence to push for social change, it is exciting to witness powerful figures in the fashion industry making a difference with their platforms. ■

10 Mario Abad, “Hunter Shafer Lands her First Pra- da Campaign,” Paper Magazine, 2021. 11 Kara Nesvig, “Reformation Founder Yael Alfalo Resigns After Allegations of Racism,” Teen Vogue, 2020.