MODA Magazine Winter 2014 by MODA

The University of Chicago // Winter 2014

the future of fashion

MODA

LETTER FROM THE EDITORS MODA Magazine 2014-2015 CO-EDITORS-IN-CHIEF

Alexandra McInnis & Rachel Scheinfeld

EDITORIAL BOARD:

he dominance of social media, the technological takeover - we’re no strangers to the discussion on the rapid acceleration of change in our society. Now, as the year 2015 approaches, we dedicate our latest issue of MODA to pinpointing the new forces that will shape fashion in the years to come. What is fashion becoming, and where is it going? In “Futuristic Fantasy,” writer Stacey Chiu assesses the predictions made decades ago on what fashion would look like today, and how they compare to our present reality. The novelty of “normcore” fashion is challenged by writer Angie Wan in “The De-Evolution of Fashion,” and Spencer Moy discusses the overlap of fashion and cutting-edge technology in “Wearable Widgets.” In the beauty industry, YouTube rockstar Michelle Phan has proven to be ahead of her times, and our interview with her shares her unique predictions for the makeup world. A bolder, more curated vision of menswear fashion is presented in the “Iridum Infantry” shoot, while photographer Luke White’s “On the Rise” shoot blends present and future, with the designs of tomorrow’s top designers inside the Museum of Contemporary Art. While the future of fashion can never be clear, we hope to give you a comprehensive vision of fashion’s transformative possibilities - with everything short of jet-packs!

Alexandra McInnis and Rachel Scheinfeld

MODA Magazine Co-Editors-in-Chief

MODA Winter 2014

PHOTOGRAPHY & CREATIVE DIRECTOR Ivy Zhang (Abroad) STYLING EDITORS Rebecca Liu & Frances Chen FEATURES EDITOR Carmin Chappell BEAUTY EDITOR Lucie Fama VISUAL DESIGN EDITOR Maya Hansen FINANCE DIRECTOR Amutha Muthukumar ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR Albert Nam PR MANAGER Lily Ting ASSISTANT STYLING EDITOR & MODEL COORDINATOR Ogonna Obiajunwa STAFF ENGAGEMENT DIRECTOR Sana Sohail COPY EDITOR Maya Rodriguez

STAFF:

WRITERS & CONTRIBUTERS: Maddie Anderson, Marta Bakula, Chaillé Biddle, Alexa Bieler, Stacey Chiu, Justin Donnelly, Nealey DuVernay, Lucie Fama, Kavya Garikipati, Tobi Gbile, Elizabeth Greene, Shayla Harris, Mark Kumleben, Zoe Levine, Rebecca Liu, Spencer Moy, Krishna Mukkavilli, Andrew Nicotra Reilly, Ellen Swicord, Lily Ting, Angie Wan STYLISTS: Frances Chen, Rebecca Liu, Ogonna Obiajunwa, Rohit Satishchandra, Victoria Sing, Emily St. Marie MAKEUP & HAIR ARTISTS: Claudia Benz, Estefania Espinoza, Lucie Fama, Caterina Gleijeses PHOTOGRAPHERS: Simon Cohen, Albert Nam, Luke White MODELS: Renee Cai, Sonia Chou, Olivia De Keyser, Valerie Ding, Lily Dubé, Frances Enger, Tobi Gbile, Shayla Harris, Charles Kupets, Adam Levi, Olivia Lin, Caleb Lugo, Maya Scheidl, Emily St. Marie, Zoey Twyford

We would like to express our appreciation to The Center for Leadership and Involvement for graciously allowing us to use their office for our production purposes. Special thanks to Paul from Iridium Clothing Co., Elaine Grotto from the Museum of Contemporary Art, and the incredible student designers from the School of the Art Institute of Chicago.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

CHICAGO CULTURE CUES:

Now that winter and the holiday season are right around the corner, MODA gives you some recommendations for exploring more of the city we love during one of the best times of the year.

06 MODA features SAIC student designs at this MCA mega shoot.

How the world of fashion has made more of an impact in the world of politics and sports than you would think.

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You’ve heard of the big names, but check out the details of the up-and-comers that are making their mark on the fashion world.

THE UNCONVENTIONAL TALES:

12 Chicago’s Iridium Clothing Co. brings street style to the next level.

FASHION’S RISING STARS:

THE DE-EVOLUTION OF FASHION:

Angie Wan delves into “normcore’s” influence and what it means for street wear today.

FUTURISTIC FANTASY:

Stacey Chiu explores futuristic fashion’s evolution from its beginnings in the early 20th century to the 1960’s Youthquake and how today’s designers have interpreted it.

WEARABLE WIDGETS:

Spencer Moy talks about how fashionable technology will soon have a place in our day-to-day lives.

MODA’s futuristic fashion timline. Illustration by Connie Huang.

Lucie Fama talks to beauty guru Michelle Phan and gives us the details on blogging and technology, futuristic fashion, and the power of makeup.

MOONAGE DAYDREAM:

Beauty goes Bowie-esque with dream-like colors and metallic accents.

INTERVIEW WITH BEAUTY GURU MICHELLE PHAN:

IRIDIUM INFANTRY:

Menswear proves to be just as cutting-edge with some of the most unique clothing Chicago has to offer.

ON THE RISE:

MODA celebrates the work of SAIC students at the Museum of Contemporary Art Chicago.

Photos from top left: Staff photo by Simon Cohen, Iridium Infiltry photo by Albert Nam, On the Rise photo by Luke White, Futuristic Fashion illustration by Connie Huang.

MODA Winter 2014

MODAloves

Chicago Culture Cues

Moda staff writers bring you the inside scoop on Chicago’s holiday season happenings.

We’ve all groggily woken up at 3pm on a Saturday only to realize that it’s too late to pop over to the dining hall or pick up ingredients for a decent meal. Chicago’s seemingly endless dining options can be overwhelming for the average student. As the temperatures continue to drop, head to Strings Ramen Shop to warm up with a flavorful version of the classic college dish. Don’t worry about emptying your wallet - everything on the menu is under $15. So this weekend, ditch your microwave and skip the bland noodles; who needs them? 2141 S Archer Ave. Chicago, IL 60616. By Justin Donnelly.

Please, for a moment, look at your life. Doesn’t it feel like you’ve paid more attention to your last problem set than you have to your friends? So take them out...well, in, technically. The Garfield Park Conservatory, just 10 minutes west of downtown, contains six greenhouses and two grand exhibition halls that can make you forget the arctic-like conditions right outside. Not only is the conservatory open every day of the year, it’s free. Observe tropical palm trees, desert cacti, and the seasonal flower exhibition, “Silver Linings.” Finally, you can make time to stop and smell the roses, sans the chattering teeth. 300 North Central Park Ave. Chicago, IL 606241945. Holiday Flower Show Nov. 29-Jan 4. By Alexa Bieler.

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Garfield Park Conservatory

Strings Ramen

From the top left going clockwise: Garfield Park Conservatory photo from lefteyed.aminus3.com, Millenium Park photo from Natasha J on flickriver.com, Chicago Sketch Comedy Festival photo from gozamos.com, Christkindmarket photo from christkindlmarket.com, and Strings Ramen Shop photo from yelp.com

Nothing cuts through the biting cold of an icy Chicago winter like laughter, and there’s no better place to find it than the Chicago Sketch Comedy Festival. Returning for its 14th year in the city, the nation’s largest sketch comedy fest boasts over 150 groups with more than 1,000 performers in total. This event promises to be a testament to Chicago’s rich comedic history (Second City anyone?), as well as an excellent introduction to the city’s thriving scene for newcomers. So between January 8th and 18th, bundle up and gather your friends for the perfect medicine for those winter blues. 1225 W. Belmont Ave. Chicago, IL 60657, Stage 773. By Kavya Garikipati.

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This season, there’s nothing better than playing tourist and joining the masses sliding and gliding in Millennium Park. Bundle up and rent a pair of skates (only $12) for free ice skating in one of downtown Chicago’s most iconic destinations. When you’re done skating and chilled to the bone, skip the snack bar and head to Mindy’s Hot Chocolate in Wicker Park for a sugar rush. With hot chocolate flavors like mint, classic Mexican, and chai along with homemade marshmallows, it will be hard to resist ordering a gallon’s worth. McCormick Tribune Ice Rink, 55 N. Michigan Ave, Chicago, IL 60601. Through March 8. Mindy’s Hot Chocolate, 1747 N Damen Ave, Chicago, IL 60647. By Zoe Levine.

Want to experience a whirlwind tour of Chicago’s performing arts scene? Chicago Theatre Week is a wonderful way to venture off campus and enjoy some quality (yet affordable) performances. Ticket prices range from $15 to $30, and with over 100 participating productions all over the city, this event is great for everyone from the theater dilettante to the thespian aficionado. Performance locations include Steppenwolf Theater, Court Theatre, and the Lyric Opera of Chicago. Some theaters also offer post-show discussions, free drinks, and coupons for upcoming events. With a plethora of classic and contemporary shows available to experience throughout the week, hibernating in the library is simply not an option. February 12-22, 2015. Ticket sales start January 6, 2015. By Krishna Mukkavilli.

Looking for something to heat up the cold winter? Chicago’s Christkindlmarket is the perfect way to warm your spirits. The annual event, inspired by a German Christmas festival, is going on its 17th year and is Chicago’s largest open-air festival. Whether you celebrate Christmas, Hanukkah, or nothing at all, Christkindlmarket has something to enjoy. Theatrical and musical performances abound, as well as a variety authentic German food and drink. With over two-dozen vendors, Christkindlmarket is also the place to grab a unique gift for someone special. The festival’s jolly atmosphere will remind you of the North Pole for reasons other than the arctic temperatures. 50 W Washington St, Chicago, IL 60602. November 21 - December 24. By Shayla Harris.

SketchFest

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ke t MODA Winter 2014

Bethany Mota began styling her way into America’s hearts in 2009 when she started her YouTube channel, Macbarbie07. Originally created as a way to escape the harsh realities of high school life, the channel expanded to include fashion, DIY, makeup, and recipe videos. Her bubbly personality and girl-next-door style advice made her channel a hit; her videos regularly garner over three million views. Mota’s empire reaches far beyond the digital world - she received a Teen Choice Award for Choice Web Star, guest-judged on an episode of Project Runway, and is a contestant this season on Dancing with the Stars. After partnering with JCPenney and Forever 21, she also designed and launched her own clothing line with Aéropostale in December 2013. Impressed yet? She’s only 19. By Tobi Gbile.

FASHION’S RISING STARS Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow launched Public School, their athletic-inspired menswear line, in 2007 but surged to the forefront of the fashion world in 2013. It was that year that the pair won the prestigious Swarovski Award for Menswear by the Council of Fashion Designers of America. Influenced by Japanese minimalism and French opulence, the two New York City natives seamlessly blend distinct elements into a cohesive collection. The pieces, while daring, are accessible enough to wear as everyday items. The color palette consists mainly of blacks, whites, and rich grey’s, while asymmetric cuts, unexpected leather and a slim silhouette elevate the brand from its streetwear foundations. Osborne and Chow dare people to reconsider what it means to be high fashion. By Andrew Nicotra Reilly.

25 Park could be just any other of-the-moment NYC Boutique. Except that it’s been having it’s moment for six years which, in New York years, is a significant feat. But it’s recently migrated off of The Island and onto the phones of over 66,000 people. Owner Alison Brettschneider launched the shop’s Instagram account (@25park), which has taken the fashion social media set by storm. She switches between on-point fashion glamour shots, hilarious one-liners, highlights of the gorgeous clothing being sold in the store, and inspirational quotes. Alison’s content-creating skills have corralled a loyal fan base that’s growing exponentially. As she reminded her followers a couple weeks ago, “There are some people in life that make you laugh a little louder, smile a little bigger, and live just a little bit better,” and I hope she knows that she’s one of them. By Elizabeth Greene.

From the top left going counter-clockwise: Bethany Mota from tumblr.com, 25 Park from harpersbazaar.com, Sophia Webster from petitsluxes.com, Jenn Im from 2020ave.com, Sequins MODA Winter 2014and Stripes from sequinsandstripes.com

Sophia Webster schooled her way into fashion, following a women’s footwear major in the Royal College of Art (yes, you can major in shoes). She became an assistant to legendary shoe designer Nicholas Kirkwood and won numerous awards for her designs before starting her own accessories label in 2012. Sophia designs small slices of life, like a party in Rio or an afternoon spent wandering through a candy shop. Her shoes define an outfit instead of merely complimenting it. She recently launched her third footwear collaboration with J. Crew, a seven-pair holiday collection complete with standout prints and clashing textures that could spice up even the dullest winter day. By Chaillé Biddle.

Simone Rocha, daughter of famous designer John Rocha, is making her own mark on the fashion world. Although she attended her first fashion show as an infant, Rocha was originally uninterested in a career in the business. She went to college to pursue art but graduated with a B.A. in Fashion in 2008 and then continued her studies at the acclaimed Central Saint Martins college in London. Since introducing her first collection in 2010, Rocha has become a highlight of London Fashion Week with her characteristically sharp, impressively structured pieces and inventive fabric treatments. She received the British Fashion Award for Emerging Talent in Womenswear last December as well as this year’s Young Designer of the Year Award by Harper’s Bazaar. Rocha is expanding her reach off the runway too; she recently launched an all-denim collaboration with J Brand Jeans that juxtaposes baggy silhouettes with frilled pockets. By Maddie Anderson.

Few designers have come as far as fast as Craig Green, modern menswear’s Anointed One. His bold vision has taken him from a working-class London upbringing to the running favourite for a British Design Award in the span of five years. His designs, whether starkly monochrome or intricately painted, have inherited the uncompromising audacity of his mentor, Walter van Beirendonck. Conceptually, Green’s chunky, draped clothes draw on both the unfinished roughness of building sites and the ascetic minimalism of religions like Catholicism and Zen; the disparate elements are often tied together by a shared concern with uniforms. His first solo show, for SS15, wowed critics big and small with its spiritual, elegiac beauty. Craig Green fans, whether cursory or devoted, now have eager eyes on his astonishing creative talent and firm artistic integrity. By Mark Kumleben.

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A FEW WORDS WITH LIZ ADAMS, THE BLOGGER BEHIND SEQUINS AND STRIPES BY MODA PR MANAGER, LILY TING. MODA: You’ve partnered with Nordstrom, Kate Spade, and countless other popular labels. How did you make the jump from personal style blog to professional brand? Sequins & Stripes: It all sort of happened organically! Over the past year brands have really realized the value and reach that bloggers have over social media and we are a direct link to their consumers. I feel very fortunate that I get to work with brands that I’ve admired forever! MODA: Many of the outfits on your blog involve bold statement pieces. How would you encourage the more risk-averse to standout with their clothing? S&S: Accessorize! For those that prefer to stick to the basics I recommend they go bold with a statement necklace, a fun handbag, embellished shoes - something that adds a little flare. MODA: As a Chicago resident, what’s your favorite part about the city’s fashion scene? S&S: Chicago is very practical when it comes to fashion. We are a good mix of eclectic, preppy, edgy and classic but we like to be comfortable. MODA: How do you balance fashion and function when the temperatures drop below freezing? S&S: Chic outerwear!

Keep your eyes out for Jenn Im, a Los Angeles native and fashion vlogger worth knowing. A recent college grad, the 24-year-old perfected the balancing act between her schoolwork and hobby-turned-career, cleverly titled Clothes Encounters. The YouTube channel now boasts over 1.1 million subscribers and is described as “a vlog of style musing, tutorials, and lifestyle advice.” Im’s unique blend of vintage and contemporary pieces, along with her effortlessly cool persona, has garnered attention offline as well. She has graced the pages of Teen Vogue and become a regular attendee at New York Fashion Week. Im currently hosts a web series in partnership with fashion website Refinery29 entitled “Hang Time with Jenn Im,” where she raids online celebrity’s closets. By Marta Bakula.

MODA: For many retailers, it seems like traditional ad spreads in magazines are being replaced for online ‘native advertising’ and social media campaigns. Where do you see fashion advertising and marketing going in the future? S&S: I don’t know! I hope magazines are always around because I love flipping through them but the online world is growing at such a rapid pace. I think eventually everything will be online. MODA: You started Sequins & Stripes in 2011, and since that time the fashion blogging world has exploded. What advice would you give to bloggers just starting out? S&S: Be true to yourself, post consistently, start conversation with other bloggers, get involved, and create content that best reflects you! MODA Winter 2014 7

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POLITICS by Ellen Swicord

s public figures, politicians must carefully consider all aspects of their outward persona – including their sense of fashion. From Michelle and Barack Obama to Prince William and Kate Middleton, as everyday fashion becomes more diverse, the style choices of political figures increasingly influence the way they are viewed by the world. Women in politics have historically had an immense impact on the fashion industry. First Lady Jackie Kennedy popularized the pillbox hat, a-line dress, and oversized sunglasses. Her simple but sophisticated approach to fashion remains popular today, and her outfits still appear across the country in museum exhibits and magazine spreads. Hillary Clinton’s vast collection of technicolor pantsuits have conveyed both authority and personality in her many roles in the nation’s capital. More recently, First Lady Michelle Obama has demonstrated her own sense of style with arm-bearing dresses and bright cardigans. When bangs appeared on her head in early 2013, almost everyone seemed to have a strong opinion on the minor change. Michelle’s formalwear is also closely watched by the public; she launched fashion designer Jason Wu’s career by wearing one of his designs to her first inaugural ball. Following her endorsement, Wu launched his Target collection in 2012 and became a household name in the fashion indusMODA Winter 2014 try. Similarly, Duchess of Cambridge Kate Mid-

dleton’s blue Issa engagement dress sold out almost immediately in both the U.S. and the UK after photos of her in the dress emerged. On the flip side, politicians are expected to display themselves to the world in a favorable manner and can come under fire if they fail to do so. President Obama incurred criticism over his choice to wear a tan suit while delivering a statement about critical foreign policy issues this August. Although wearing a tan suit in the summer seems insignificant to most, the president’s critics claimed the color was inappropriately casual for the occasion. Additionally, worry over the cost of the First Lady’s clothes has sparked an investigation of how she maintains her fashion-forward wardrobe. In February, Michelle Obama wore a $12,000 Carolina Herrera designer gown to a state dinner, a few weeks after the President identified income equality as a major problem in America. News outlets soon reported that the cost of her dress exceeded the median annual household income worldwide, leading critics to question the administration’s dedication to its ideals. When a politician steps out in an unconventional ensemble, the public can react and voice their opinions in real-time thanks to the 24-hours news cycle and social media. Since faux pas can easily overshadow foreign policies, it is especially important for public figures to craft their personal style to ensure that the limelight stays on the important issues.

Photos left to right clockwise: Hillary & her rainbow of suits from huffingtonpost.com; Ralph Lauren Olympic Uniforms from gentlemansgazette.com; Michelle Obama in a Jason Wu design from galleryhip.com; Serena Williams from centre-court-tennis.com; Cristiano Ronaldo’s World Cup 2014 haircut from ahram.org; Kate Middleton in Blue Issa Dress from whatkatewore.com; Obama & the tan suit controversay from paxonbothhouses.blogspot.com

THE UNCONVENTIONAL TALES:

FASHION MEETS SPORTS & POLITICS

by Nealey DuVernay

ATHLETICS

uring the summer of 2012, all eyes were on the athletes competing in the London Summer Olympics...and what they were wearing. Ralph Lauren designed the much talked-about uniforms for Team USA, with critics ranting and fans raving about the preppy ensembles. Navy blazers and white oxfords, with signature elements of the retail brand, made the American Olympians resemble the cast of Gossip Girl. Team USA wasn’t the only team with uniforms designed by haute couture names; Team Italy wore Giorgio Armani, Stella McCartney designed Team Britain’s uniforms, and Hermés outfitted the French Equestrian Team. While high fashion definitely made a major appearance at the Olympics, it isn’t the only place where style and sports collide. The 2014 World Cup was one of the biggest events this summer, and both fútbol and fashion fanatics found something to watch during the tournament. Since matches are filmed so far from the field to capture every play, soccer uniforms need to be especially eye-catching. There were a multitude of designs present at the World Cup, ranging from simple (the monochromatic orange Ivory Coast team) to complex (the all-over ikat design on Cameroon’s jerseys). Clothing wasn’t the only way to make a statement, however. Players Cristiano Ronaldo from Portugal and Arturo Vidal from Chile both sported designs shaved into their hair, and Bosnia’s Ermin Bicakcic showed off a slick pompadour. Germany may have taken home the trophy, but every team at the World Cup scored serious style points.

Moving off the field and onto the courts, tennis has always had a close relationship with fashion. Picture a classic tennis uniform: perfectly pleated skirts and cable knit sweaters, anyone? Fortunately, the modern world of tennis fashion has much more variety than the typical country club aesthetic. The most famous players—including Grigor Dimitrov, Maria Sharapova, and Serena Williams—are sporting bright colors and bold patterns during matches nowadays. Dimitrov stood out at this year’s Grand Slam finale in his sky blue polka-dotted shirt, Sharapova kept it low-key in a gray dress with orange accents, and Williams spiced up the courts with a black and white cheetah print ensemble. Athletic wear staples such as Adidas, ASICS, and Nike are typically the brands of choice for tennis sponsorships. Czech player Tomáš Berdych recently became the first player sponsored by powerhouse retailer H&M, with his floral shirt turning heads on the courts at the French Open. The sports world has clearly stepped up its fashion game, and it doesn’t look like it’s stopping anytime soon. Ralph Lauren has a contract to design Team USA’s Olympic uniforms until 2020, and with so much talk generated from the London Games, even more big names in fashion plan to design for the 2016 Games in Rio. And as shown by H&M, even streetwear brands are venturing into the pro sports business. As style and sports become more and more integrated, athletes no longer have to sacrifice fashion for function. So the next time you’re watching ESPN, don’t be surprised if you find some serious MODA Winter 2014 style inspiration!

Photos: Left: Normcore by MODA Asst. Photo Editor, Albert Nam; Right going clockwise: Larry David from playmakeronline. com; Normcore by MODA Asst. Photo Editor, Albert Nam; Bottom photos: De-evolution of Fashion by MODA photographer Simon Cohen, modeled by Frances Enger and Charles Kupets, styled by Ogonna Obiajunwa.

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DE-EVOLUTION OF FASHION Moda staff writer, Angie Wan, explores the recent “normcore” phenomena and its implication on street wear.

ight outside New York Fashion Week last September, hundreds of fashion-conscious bloggers poised in carefully staged nonchalance, yet one could be forgiven for thinking some of these new kids on the block –representing real, on the ground street fashion – had stepped off the set of Seinfeld or Friends where they played terminally apathetic extras. Adidas sneakers, Gap pants, and other typically nondescript articles of clothing have suddenly made their way into the fashion limelight through the “normcore” trend. The perfectly disorganized, painfully unique look consistently all the rage in street fashion has been replaced by this wave of of so-called normality. According to Fiona Duncan, writing for New York Magazine, “Normcore isn’t about rebelling against or giving into the status quo; it’s about letting go of the need to look distinctive, to make time for something new.” Street fashion is certainly ‘de-evolving,’ insofar as it’s returning to the basics, to simplicity and casualness, yet can it ever become

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more than fashion--or less? Therein lies the paradox of normcore and of all aesthetics that promote a more basic idea of street fashion. Fashion is innately performative, but merely wearing clothing is necessary. There is something to be said about letting go of the need to look distinctive, but there is less to be said to the fashion-conscious about letting go of the need to look purposeful. Anyone is able to not care about what they wear, yet normcore is a specific look. It’s the odd dowdiness of the late 80s, early 90s – fleece and Birkenstocks, the stuff your parents might have worn or perhaps currently wear – on those who obviously care. It is that incongruity that makes normcore, normcore, rather than just normal. As one commenter on the trend remarked: “Although, yes, they're working with plain, middle America mall clothes, they still put everything together in a way that's not only flattering, but distinctive.” Normcore is faux-normativity. It is the norm staged and put on show; it is about fundamentally being unique in

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the sea of handlebar moustaches and skinny jeans by taking cues not from their daily lives or through adaptability, but from an idealised normality far from present reality. K-HOLE, the trend forecasting collective that coined the term, originally intended for normcore to describe a sociological idea of “find[ing] liberation in being nothing special, and realiz[ing] that adaptability leads to belonging.” However, no matter how much K-HOLE co-founder Emily Segal insists “that normcore isn’t about one specific aesthetic,” its current form, presented by the bored fashion bloggers milling outside the Lincoln Center, fails to live up to any revolutionary promises. We’ve established that normcore is less of anti-fashion statement than its proponents may like to admit. It isn’t a highbrow return to something new. Rather, normcore – like the trends it means to critique – is simply an expression of both individuality and community. White socks and sweaters are the new crazy patterns and odd moustache. It shows that those individuals are a member of the fashion

elite: too cool for contrived uniqueness but just cool enough for the new hot thing. The look is expressed within a certain schema, but still contains elements of the person’s self. The new normal is, in the end, the old normal. And what’s wrong with that? Nothing. Ultimately there is absolutely nothing remarkable about the de-evolution of street fashion. Like every trend, normcore and its ilk will leave its mark on fashion (though who knows to what extent), but as with every trend, there will always be another season, another buzzword. Fashion is cyclical. Street fashion may be de-evolving now, but soon enough the opposite will be back in vogue. If you enjoy simplicity and/or looking like Larry Davis, normcore and the stripped-down aesthetic may have something to offer you. But if you're truly searching for something new, to be unburdened by trends and styles, normcore as it exists now is far from the sociological roots articulated by K-HOLE. Street fashion is de-evolving for now, but ultimately, we might just be waiting for the next evolution. MODA Winter 2014

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FUTURISTIC FANTASY

hen you hear “futuristic fashion,” what comes to mind? Silver, glitzy fabric, skintight spacesuits, and perhaps a nostalgic memory of the Disney Channel classic Zenon: Girl of the 21st Century. Add a few nifty gadgets here and there, and there you have it: a picture of the future that looks a lot like a scene out of Star Trek. This past runway season, similar futuristic styles made their mark on the catwalk. Balenciaga’s SS15 show featured a minimalist palette, mesh fabric, slicked back hair, and angled black sunglasses; Iris van Herpen’s collection of edgy, avant-garde looks featured armor-like spikes and metallics perfect for the next century and beyond. But, futurism isn’t new concept– in fact, it has a pretty long history. To get to the origins of futurism in fashion, we have to go back…way back. Futurism began in Italy in the early 1900s, when the world began to embrace rapid technological advances and cities underwent industrial transformations. Clothing designers did the same: they wanted to celebrate all things new, and that meant experimenting with fabrics, cuts, and color, reflecting a world that was breaking apart from a more traditional past. Artist Giacomo Balla set the foundation for futurism in fashion with his “anti-neutral” clothing; his asymmetrical designs with bright splashes of color mocked the subdued hues and aesthetic uniformity that dominated the styles of that time. Later, Balla’s counterpart, Ernesto Michahelles

MODA Winter 2014

Written by Stacey Chiu

Photos going clockwise: Alexander Wang FW14 from on.aol.com; Balenciaga SS15 from elle. com; Alexander Wang FW14 from my trnd.com

a.k.a. Thayaht, introduced the first commercially successful garment of futuristic clothing: a utilitarian, unisex jumpsuit called the TuTa. While it might not seem that novel in current times, a piece of clothing made to complement an active lifestyle was a true innovation.

Her, costume designer Casey Storm rejected cliché futuristic clothes, and instead went for a retro-inspired uniform of high-waisted pants, button downs, and tortoiseshell glasses. The film’s confounding mix of cutting-edge artificial intelligence and plain ensembles gave the impression that technological advancement could lead to a sartorial relapse in the near future. Whatever the clothing of tomorrow brings, futuristic fashion has always been about one thing: stretching the imagination to design clothes that are fresh, unique, and complement the accelerating world of science and tech. Whether that means edgy fabrics that change color in different temperatures or a return to the styles of days past with minimal distractions, then bring it on, future.

Photos going clockwise: Balenciaga SS15 from elle.com; Iris Van Herpen SS15 from nowfashion. com; Iris Van Herpen SS15 from blendbureaux.com; Balenciaga SS15 from elle.com

While the early clothes of the futurist movement didn’t resemble the spandexed, shiny garb we see on TV and in movies, with the 1960’s came a large shift. This decade introduced an era dubbed “Youthquake” by Vogue’s then editor-in-chief Diana Vreeland. Dominated by teenagers, the fashion of Youthquake was defined by neon colors, miniskirts, and vinyl fabric and symbolized the same protest against normality and conformity of the Italians four decades earlier. Fun, young, and never taking itself too seriously, Youthquake embraced a spirited lifestyle of adventure. Similarly, designers Andre Courreges and Pierre Cardin introduced fashions inspired by space exploration. Space travel was in its infancy in those times, and the idea of a new frontier beyond the confines of Earth totally energized and expanded the imagination. Tiered, robotic-looking dresses made of shiny synthetic fabrics and eclectic headwear based on astronaut helmets dominated the runways. Today, futurism in clothing design has taken a turn, merging the worlds of tech and fashion quite literally. Alexander Wang’s heat sensitive, color-changing F/W14 collection used engineering to create multiple aesthetic possibilities in one piece. The rise of gadgets like Google Glass and Nike+ FuelBand have pushed wearable technology into everyday life. However, in last year’s Oscar-winning movie

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WEARABLE WIDGETS MODA staff writer, Spencer Moy, gives us the 411 on the future of wearable tech fashion.

year ago, consumers were eagerly anticipating 2014 as the year of the wearable. Google Glass. Nike FuelBand. Fitbit. Apple Watch. All new to the scene, studies expect wearable technology to revolutionize everyday life by 2025. However, it has yet to find a comfortable place in the realm of fashion or in the eyes of the sartorially-minded consumer. Any conversation about wearable technology inevitably prompts the same debate: functional fashion versus technology with design? It seems like the new sector can only claim the latter. Whether understated or statement-making, jewelry exists purely to enhance the aesthetic pleasure of the wearer. However, wearable devices are created for a different purpose: maximizing function. Time and effort are dedicated to making the interface simplistic, the durability high, and the information accurate and personal. With roots in technology rather than design, these aims naturally diverge from any aesthetic aspects of the product. To see this phenomenon in action, just look at the wrist: seemingly the first site to be conquered by the wearables takeover. The Apple Watch, set for an early 2015 release, is poised to compete against multiple Android Wear watches such as the Moto360 by Motorola, LG G Watch R, and Samsung’s Galaxy Gear. Each

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piece flaunts touchscreens, a range of apps, and a universal messaging center, among other features. Along with functionality, smart watches share a general design blueprint – thick bands and a large face that pale in comparison to the Rolexes and Michael Kors. Along with watches, activity tracker bands like Nike Fuelband, Fitbit, and Jawbone’s UP3 are gaining popularity in everyday life. The bands’ main goal is to monitor and interpret health data, such as calories, steps, and sleep. While providing users advice on an issue as critical as personal health is certainly an ambitious aim, these devices are limited with regards to style; the bands typically have no embellishments aside from an LED screen and come in a few basic colors. However, the outlook on wearable tech in regard to fashion isn’t bleak. The team behind the Misfit Shine, a Bluetooth-connected activity tracker, seems to have put more thought into the ‘wearable’ half of wearable tech. It is available in ten colors that range from ‘champagne’ to ‘sea glass’. While the quartersized, circular device comes attached to a rubber wristband, it can be detached and worn as a brooch using the built-in clasp. Users can also purchase leather bands, metal bands, and a variety of Shine-adaptable necklaces for a truly customized look. Furthermore, maybe wearable technology shouldn’t aim to be lumped with their brainless coun-

MODAfeatures Photos going clockwise: Wearable tech from fullerton.edu, Vetruvian Tech Man from bengrossman. com, Apple Watch from redmondpie.com, Google Glass from pcmag.com.

terparts. For decades, major fashion houses have focused on the artistry of their runway pieces and frequently disregarded functionality and durability that consumers value in clothing. However, society still looks to their designs as inspiration for everyday wear. Similarly, though fashion may not be the main emphasis, wearable tech pieces are statements in themselves. They create a new and unique aesthetic that everyday accessories simply do not capture, and their presence in daily life will only expand thanks to their novel features. By capitalizing on this look, wearable tech can find its most productive place in a subset of the fashion world, as opposed to a seamless integration into conventional fashion. Creating a niche market like this has been done before, and very recently. Fashionable sportswear was once unheard of as a legitimate category of apparel, but it has recently gained huge momentum. The pieces are not meant to simply replicate the looks they take inspiration from; no designer intends to create track pants cut from luxury fabric in order to replace the workout

staples made by Under Armour or Adidas. Yet, this unique look is now fostered by the likes of Alexander Wang and other major designers, as well as streetwear brands like Zara. Fashionable sportswear has found a market where there was none before. It is now a large share within the fashion realm and has thrived due to the active American lifestyle. Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s desire to be connected 24/7 can help wearable technology follow sportswearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s model. While wearable technology may never be considered haute couture, it has the potential to create its own strong branch within the fashion realm. Wielding a strong and unique aesthetic, digitally enhanced pieces will not meld into the fashion world overnight. The Moto360, the Apple Watch, and Google Glass will not stand among classic timepieces and other accessories. They will not be equals. But this doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to be the ultimate goal. Wearable tech pieces can fearlessly exist in their own category and build a market around the strengths that make it unique in function, and in style. MODA Winter 2014

MODAinterviews

MODA Beauty Editor, Lucie Fama, chats with beauty guru,

ODA: In an age where technology has such a large impact in our daily lives, you have found a way to bring together the virtual sphere with one’s physical being through being the “Viral Video Pioneer” of the beauty world. How do you think your work will impact the future of the beauty world? Michelle Phan: What I love most about making beauty videos on a digital platform is that I can reach such a wide audience. I’ve heard from so many girls that when they saw how I was able to transform my love of beauty and makeup into something so much more than I ever could have expected, that they were inspired to start their own beauty blogs and channels. And I love that! I love seeing other people online pursuing their passion. The amazing thing about YouTube and social media is that anyone who has a camera and wants to make beauty tutorials or talk about beauty products can do that. So, I hope that my impact on the future of the beauty world is that more and more girls are inspired to pursue this field in exciting new ways. MODA: The theme of this issue of MODA Magazine is “The Future of Fashion.” There is no denying that you have brought a new, refreshing

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stance to the world of beauty, showing how cosmetics can breed confidence and empower the lives of women. With your work emerging simultaneously to natural beauty movements, how do you plan on continuing to show the power of beauty within your future work? MP: I’ve said in my videos before that I believe everyone has an amazing, natural beauty and we can use make up to enhance our natural look. I’ve actually been experimenting myself by wearing less makeup in my everyday life and focusing on skincare. I will always love makeup because, with it, I can be entirely different people and try out looks I never would have thought I could pull off. MODA: As students, we are also thinking about how what we learn in our current education can have a direct impact on our futures. Your experience in art school, and understanding how painting can translate to one’s face, is a great example of how academic training can transcend into our daily lives. What advice do you have for current students in how they can find and discover their passions through their coursework? MP: Take classes outside your field, in an area you never would have thought you’d be interested in. If you’re majoring in a science, try taking some art or performing

MODAinterviews classes. If you’re majoring in English or History, try taking a Biology class. There are so many things in this world that are interconnected, you never know how opposing subjects might actually be related. I also think that the best way to figure out what you love is to look at what you’re actually doing, not what you think you should be doing. If you think you should be on a certain path, take a step back and look at what actions you’re actually taking. Maybe you feel more passionate about your on campus organization than your major! MODA: Technology, and specifically Youtube, is a major aspect of your platform. How do you believe your videos or understanding of the best way to connect with your viewers has adapted or changed over time? MP: I feel like I am constantly evolving and exploring new ideas. I almost never watch my old videos because I want to keep my eye on the future, on where I’m headed. When I first started on YouTube, most of my videos were, of course, make up and skincare tutorials. But in the past few years I have been incorporating videos on fashion, life guides, etc. I have come to learn that the best way to connect with my viewers is by being honest and always working to tell a story. I could be sharing something about my life or telling a story through the characters I create with makeup. MODA: After years of becoming a leading figure in the beauty world, and with the recent creation of your brand, em, you have continued to create a lifestyle and community through your work, that is representative of your “phan-base.” If you could predict, what do you see as the next moves for Michelle Phan? MP: I recently partnered with Cutting Edge Group and will be launching my own record label, Shift Music Group. I wanted to create a platform that would provide opportunities for artists, by not only promoting their music in my videos, but giving them further opportunity to get their music heard, whether that be in film, TV, ad campaigns or otherwise. I’ve always been passionate about music and artists, and this venture allows me to take my passion and create opportunities for others. I also want to inspire others to build successful brands on YouTube. I’ve teamed up with Endemol Beyond USA and will be expanding my lifestyle network by building a boutique premium talent network that will feature key tastemakers and pioneers in the YouTube space, as well as curate and create inspirational content for millennials. MODA: What would you say has been the most surprising aspect of your journey from blogger to world-wide beauty guru? What has been the hardest hurdle to overcome?

Photos from michellephan.com and youtube.com

MP: For a long time I have passionately pursued my dreams, although I was never quite sure where it would take me. When I decided to go to art school to follow my dream of becoming an artist, I had no idea I would end up on YouTube or that my videos would end up being seen my millions of people. I was not a professionally trained makeup artist. I am self-taught in every way – from make-up artistry to shooting and editing my videos. I never expected this to happen, but it’s been an incredible adventure and I’ve learned a lot along the way. MODA: We use beauty and makeup as a form of self-expression, artistic creation, and empowerment. However, women often face criticism by being told that they use makeup because they are insecure or not “pretty enough.” How do you believe is the best way to combat this sentiment? How can our generation continue to redefine beauty as being a powerful tool rather than a masking facade? MP: Beauty has transformative power. Using our face as the canvas we have the ability to create new looks and alter our appearance. We can wear make-up to match our mood, or to uplift it. Make-up doesn’t define who you are – but it can help show the world who you are. Makeup IS art—the only difference is it’s on a moving canvas that constantly changes throughout the day. It’s an extension of our selfexpression, and a powerful tool that shapes how we see ourselves. MODA Winter 2014

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As a musician and performance artist, David Bowie was always ahead of his times, defying gender norms while curating a futuristic visual style. MODA Beauty Editor Lucie Fama draws inspiration from Ziggy Stardust himself to create her own metallic makeup fantasy. Photos by Albert Nam Hair by Lucie Fama and Sonia Chou Models: Sonia Chou, Caleb Lugo, Maya Scheidl, Emily St. Marie, Zoey Twyford

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SPACE ODDITY Left: Sonia Chou Right: Maya Scheidl

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OH! YOU PRETTY THINGS Left: Emily St. Marie Right: Zoey Twyford Cover: Caleb Lugo

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Iridium Infantry The cutting edge clothes of Iridium Clothing Co. meet the streets of Chicago. Photos by Albert Nam Styled by Frances Chen, Rohit Satishchandra, Emily St. Marie, Ogonna Obiajunwa Modeled by CJ Fraley, Eric Kim, Nick Watson Clothing from Iridium Clothing Co., 108 N. State St., iridiumclothingco.com MODA Winter 2014

TAKING TO THE STREETS: Left: Nick Watson sports Iridium’s Layered Hoodie with their #Free Swagg Pants for a look defining the future of streetwear. Right: Nick in Iridium’s Vegan Leather R-B-W Biker Sweat Pants paired with the Perforated Leather V-Neck.

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“As a leader, we will define the future of Fashion—from the World to outer space, and in cyberspace.” ~ Iridium Clothing Co. Vision ~

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ON THE RISE The future of fashion is in the hands of the young designers of our day. A highly regarded fouryear BFA program, the Fashion Department at the School of the Art of the Institute of Chicago produces meticulous and creative work. With the opportunity to work with renowned faculty throughout the program, students design two final collections in their junior and senior years, culminating with their presentation at THE WALK, an annual fashion show held in Millennium Park in May. MODA teamed up with nine SAIC fashion students, showcasing their artful designs at the always cutting-edge Museum of Contemporary Art of Chicago.

Photographed by Luke White Styled by MODA Magazine Styling Editor, Rebecca Liu, assisted by Frances Chen Clothing by Kyle Edson, Noa Loewald Hu, Jamie Lange, Jacob Z. Shanbrom, Faina Stefadu, Franky Tran, Claire Wetterer, Sophie Yang, Eda B. Yorulmazoglu Accessories are stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own Makeup by Caterina Gleijeses and Estefania Espinoza, Hair by Claudia Benz Models: Renee Cai, Olivia De Keyser, Lily DubĂŠ, Shayla Harris, Olivia Lin

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Founded in 1967, the Museum of Contemporary Art in Chicago is one of the few museums solely devoted to featuring the works of today’s artists. The MCA is the only museum in America showcasing the blockbuster exhibit “David Bowie Is,” a multi-media retrospective of the life, work and visual style of the legendary musician David Bowie. Discounted tickets to the exhibit are available for students from Tuesday to Friday; more information can be found at mcachicago.org.

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Studying to be a designer has made me feel a bit like a child walking through the world as an adult. Everything my senses gather have so much potential for creative outcome that I become fascinated with the most basic elements of our environment. ~ Faina Stefadu

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Designers amd models, left to right: Renee Cai in Noa Loewald Hu, Olivia De Keyser in Claire Wetterer, Olivia Lin in Faina Stefadu. MODA Winter 2014

Left: Shayla Harris in Franky Tran.

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;As a designer the most important thing to me is shape and breaking the boundaries of shape. The pieces shown in this editorial were inspired by dazzle camouflage ships and the idea of using shape and pattern to distort the body.â&#x20AC;? - Claire Wetterer

MODA Winter 2014

Jacob Shanbrom on the future of fashion: “As for the future of fashion, I think unisex dressing is really the way of the future!”

Eda Yorulmazoglu on the creative process: “I find that most of my best pieces are when I’m having fun playing and experimenting.”

Designers left to right: Eda B. Yorulmazoglu, Sophie Yang, Jacob Shanbrom. Pants are all models’ own.

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Left: Jacket by Jaime Lange. Right: Vest by Jacob Z. Shanbrom. Pants are modelsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; own.

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Designers left to right: Eda B. Yorulmazoglu, Sophie Yang, Jamie Lange, Jacob Shanbrom, Claire Wetterer (cape top and skirt). Pants are modelsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; own. BACK COVER: Kyle Edson, Noa Loewald Hu

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@ModaMagChicago

MODA Winter 2014