The Faces of Greenwich

THEFACES OFGREENWICH

WITH SO MANY NEIGHBORHOODS TO CHOOSE FROM, THERE’S SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE HERE

Backcountry

PAGES 58-59 BC

Glenville

GV

PAGES 62-63 MC

Mid-Country

PAGES 58-59

CC

Cos Cob

PAGES 54-55

Central Greenwich

PAGES 56-57 CG

Downtown

RS

B

Byram Shore Belle Haven

Byram

PAGES 60-61 Cos Cob Harbor

OG

Greenwich Cove

Tod’s Point

Riverside

PAGES 50-51

Old Greenwich

PAGES 52-53

How do you find the right home? When you’re buying a new place, the neighborhood you select is as important as the house you choose. Fortunately, Greenwich offers a variety of areas to consider, along with diversity in geography, atmosphere and price. Those who want to put down roots in a place with a busy downtown vibe will find it in Greenwich. And then there are the leafier neighborhoods with long and winding roads, as well as ones deep in the country, with four-acre zoning, plenty of privacy and incredible scenery. If you want a saltwater breeze in the backyard, other hamlets hug the rocky shoreline. Yet in every neighborhood, you’ll find a new favorite coffee shop or hiking trail. With so many appealing options, there really is something for everyone in Greenwich.

In Old Greenwich, locals frequent the charming boutiques and restaurants along Sound Beach Avenue.

You know you are in Riverside when: You cross the historic Riverside Bridge, swing by a local eatery and marvel at passing sailboats.

Riverside

AREA: EXIT 5 OFF I-95 • HIGHLIGHTS: WATERFRONT VIEWS; PLAYGROUNDS; COLORFUL HISTORY

THE COMMUNITY OF RIVERSIDE is very much focused on the water—much of its two square miles stretches along the rocky inlets and secluded coves formed along its Mianus River and Long Island Sound borders. Because of the way it is situated, topographically higher than Old Greenwich, the area affords water views to many of its residents, even those who live inland. Like its neighbors, Riverside’s history dates back to the 17th century. In fact, it was known as Mianus Neck until 1870 and was primarily a community of farmers, fishermen and oystermen. Today, Riverside is a highly sought-after residential area, whose denizens love its off-the-beaten path feel, its excellent schools, and its accessibility to I-95 and the Metro North.

The main thoroughfare is Riverside Avenue, which bisects Route 1 (East Putnam Avenue) and runs south to Old Greenwich. Route 1 is home to Riverside’s only business district, which includes a variety of services, as well as BALDUCCI’S, a gourmet grocery store, and a branch of AUX DELICES, a Stamford-based catering company with delicious prepared foods.

From Route 1, Riverside Avenue (known until the mid-nineteenth century as Potato Road because of all the potato cellars that were found here) swings past leafy, tree-lined streets that seem to meander around with no particular destination in mind. Many find their way to the water—the river, the harbor or the Sound—where egrets and herons strut along tidal flats and buoys clang in the breeze. Riverside has its share of celebrity homeowners—not unlike the rest of Greenwich. They tend to congregate in the gated areas that run along the coast, including one with its own private beach. Many neighborhoods have a colorful past. Willowmere, for instance, was named for the willow trees that grew here—they were harvested during the Civil War to make prosthetics for wounded soldiers.

In summer, those who own boats often motor over to TOD’S POINT in Old Greenwich for a beach day, bypassing the traffic on Sound Beach Avenue. Families, in particular, love the convenience of RIVERSIDE YACHT CLUB (members only) on Cos Cob Harbor and Riverside Elementary School, which offers easy drop-off and pickup, plenty of parking, and wonderful playgrounds and fields. Ditto nearby Eastern Middle School.

After school, kids of all ages flock to ADA’S KITCHEN + COFFEE SHOP for homemade baked treats and other goodies. Originally the town post office, the building was converted in the 1950s to Ada’s Candy Shop and was for many years the go-to spot for penny candy and Ada’s kind counsel. Not surprisingly, Manhattan-bound commuters who walk to the train station stop here for their early-morning caffeine fix and breakfast sandwiches. And busy moms pop in for the venue’s healthy grab-and-go salad bowls and fruit smoothies.

Although the train station has no particular historic value, the cast-iron bridge that crosses the tracks is on the National Register of Historic Places. Built in 1871, it was originally part of a railroad bridge over the Housatonic River in Stratford. It was moved to Riverside in the late 1800s. Another local landmark is the FERRIS HOUSE on Cary Road, which dates back to 1760.

Besides being a wonderful play area for toddlers, ST. PAUL’S EPISCOPAL CHURCH has a superb daycare program. There are also four town-owned tennis courts on Lockwood Avenue that are fully subscribed from dawn to dusk during the summer. The northern end of MIANUS POND, at the intersection of Palmers Hill and Valley roads, provides public access to the river, and the shops of Old Greenwich are an easy drive or bike ride away.

HISTORY IN THE MAKING

COMMODORE TYSON Together with 10 friends, yachtsman George I. Tyson, the wealthy head of the American News Company and a summer resident of Riverside, founded the Riverside Yacht Club in 1888 near the entrance of the Mianus River. He would be the first commodore of what would become the second oldest yacht club in Connecticut and eighth on Long Island Sound.

RIVERSIDE BRIDGE The landmark bridge on Riverside Avenue is the only cast-iron truss bridge in the state, and one of just a few still in use in the country. Part of a railroad bridge built over the Housatonic River in 1871, it was moved to Riverside in 1894 and is now on the National Register of Historic Places.

AMASA MARKS Around 1872, the well-heeled businessman Amasa Abraham Marks bought 100 acres of farmland in Riverside in order to create a willow plantation to supply his New York City factory that made artificial limbs for Civil War veterans. His Victorian mansion has stood proudly on Willowmere Circle since 1889.

Old Greenwich

AREA: EXITS 5 AND 6 OFF I-95 • HIGHLIGHTS: CLOSE-KNIT COMMUNITY; BINNEY PARK

OLD GREENWICH IS THE OLDEST OF THE hamlets that comprise the town of Greenwich. But don’t let its name fool you. With a bustling shopping and dining scene, proximity to Long Island Sound and numerous options for outdoor fun, the community’s hip, beachy vibe and smalltown charm attract a lively mix of residents, from young families to empty nesters. Founded in 1640, the present-day community of about 6,600 residents has undergone several name changes during its history, from Greenwich to Old Town to Sound Beach. In 1930, the name was changed once more, this time to Old Greenwich, and it stuck. Like Cos Cob, its neighbor to the west, Old Greenwich started life as a farming community. In the mid-nineteenth century it morphed into a popular beach resort for heatweary New Yorkers. In those days, overnight guests would arrive at the small train station (today listed on the National Register of Historic Places) and hop the trolley, which ran down Sound Beach Avenue bound for one of the numerous shorefront inns and the beaches of TOD’S POINT, site of the grand Innis Arden estate of financier J. Kennedy Tod. (He also established the INNIS ARDEN GOLF COURSE in 1899. The gates once marking his estate entrance are now on club grounds.) In 1945, the town bought the 147-acre site and renamed it GREENWICH POINT PARK; many of the original buildings have been restored, and on a clear day you can see Manhattan’s skyscrapers from here. A hub for activity, the park features a sandy beach and placid, toddler-friendly surf, a seaside education center, the OLD GREENWICH YACHT CLUB, walking trails and two concession stands. Though Old Greenwich spans both sides of I-95 and includes a stretch of the busy Post Road with restaurants, yoga studios and more, the heart of OG lies in the small but sophisticated business district on Sound Beach Avenue. Here, you’ll find clothing and home furnishings stores, chic but casual restaurants and coffee shops (two with on-site roasting), a florist, neighborhood hardware store and a new craft butcher shop. One of the most popular draws is the RUMMAGE ROOM, a thrift boutique operated by the Women’s Fellowship of the First Congregational Church. Here you’ll find a wonderful selection of gently used furniture and clothing, as well as seasonal items such as Halloween costumes and sporting gear.

Old Greenwich is a kid-friendly hamlet, and it’s also a great home for dogs. Many shopowners keep water bowls outside, and some have a steady supply of dog treats inside. Every December, the business district dresses up in its holiday best for the First Light Festival, kicking off the winter season. The celebration includes wine tastings, carolers, horse-drawn sleigh rides, hot chocolate and live music.

Unlike the backcountry, with its four-acre zoning, or in nearby Riverside, land is at a premium here. Lots are typically less than a half-acre, so houses are built close together, leading to a neighborly feel. In recent years, the town has made an effort to build sidewalks on busy thoroughfares; during the school year, you’ll see scores of kids walking to OLD GREENWICH ELEMENTARY accompanied by their parents and dogs.

Among other appealing features are the privately run PERROT MEMORIAL LIBRARY, which offers programs for all ages, and the 32-acre BINNEY PARK across the street. There’s a duck pond ringed by rhododendrons and hemlocks, and several stone bridges that span a meandering stream. The pretty park routinely serves as the backdrop for wedding photos. There are four tennis courts, two baseball diamonds, swings and play areas. In summer, the town hosts a Fourth of July concert here and, come fall, the model sailboat races draw sailors, both young and old.

HISTORY IN THE MAKING

GREENWICH POINT In 1884, the banker J. Kennedy Tod turned what is now Greenwich Point Park into a magnificent waterfront estate he called Innis Arden, allowing local residents access to its sandy beaches and golf course. Since he had no heirs, he willed the 148.5-acre property to the Presbyterian Hospital of New York, and in 1944, hospital trustees sold it to the town of Greenwich for $550,000.

BINNEY PARK Activist Edwin Binney, who invented Crayola crayons in 1903, was colorblind but not blind to the needs of the community. He provided funds to turn the swampy area opposite the First Congregational Church (founded in 1665) into a picturesque park, the longtime scene of 4th of July fireworks, model sailboat races, dogwalking and wedding pictures.

TOMAC CEMETERY Founded in 1665, Tomac Burying Ground is the town’s oldest cemetery. Close to the cove where the original settlers landed, it contains 250 graves, including those of 27 Revolutionary War veterans along with founding fathers and mothers with names like Lockwood, Husted, Mead and Ferris. Owned by the First Congregational Church, it is listed on the State Register of Historic Places.

You know you are in Old Greenwich when:

Families are having outdoor fun and enjoying the smalltown feel of the village shopping district.

You know you are in Cos Cob when: The waterside setting blends in with chic boutiques and a rich town history.

Cos Cob

AREA: EXIT 4 OFF I-95 • HIGHLIGHTS: BUSH-HOLLEY HOUSE; MONTGOMERY PARK

QUAINT WITH STUNNING WATER VIEWS, this small hamlet packs a big punch. For starters, there’s the Mianus River, which serves as a launching pad for a variety of water sports—from rowing and kayaking to sailing and fishing. There are several marinas, a full-service fishing outfitter and pro shop, the family-friendly WATER CLUB (members only), and the GREENWICH ROWING CLUB, which caters to student athletes and recreational scullers.

Cos Cob is also home to the renovated and expanded GREENWICH HISTORICAL SOCIETY. The reimagined campus features a modern glass-walled building that houses two museum galleries as well as the BUSH-HOLLEY HOUSE, the town’s only national historic landmark, and the one-time home of the Cos Cob School of American Impressionism. Here, such renowned artists as Childe Hassam, Elmer MacRae and John Twachtman painted en plein air, capturing the bucolic setting and its inhabitants.

In many ways Cos Cob owes its existence to the river. Back when the farmers of Old Town (now Old Greenwich) were struggling to grow crops in the area’s rocky soil, this tiny enclave prospered as a seaport, sending produce by ship to New York. The shipping industry declined in the mid-1800s with the advent of the railroad and then ceased altogether in the early 1900s, but the community’s ties to the water remains to this day.

A bit inland, busy East Putnam Avenue runs straight through the town’s commercial hub, with residential neighborhoods on both sides. Over the past few years, Cos Cob has transformed into a mini-mecca of artisanal goodies and home design boutiques. Within a one-block section you’ll find a gourmet cheese shop, a fishmonger, a craft butchery and an upscale juice bar. Heading east past the fire station, another commercial pocket houses a chic coffeehouse, home furnishings shop and a gelateria; across the street you’ll find a dancewear store for all ages and a new design store with one-of-a-kind and custom goods. Not surprisingly, there are numerous dining options around the village, ranging from pizza, burgers and fried chicken to rustic Italian and Asian fusion.

Cos Cob is very much a family community, and in addition to its wonderful public library, a part of the town library system, there are plenty of places for outdoor play. The nineacre COS COB PARK, which meanders along the river’s edge, has two play areas and soccer fields. The LOUGHLIN PLAYGROUND off Stickland Road has basketball, tennis and paddle-tennis courts that are lighted for nighttime games. MONTGOMERY PARK is a 30-acre wooded preserve off Valley Road (not far from Central Middle School) with the remnants of an extensive conifer collection assembled by the late Colonel Montgomery. It is also home to the town’s own greenhouse and the excellent all-volunteer GARDEN BOTANICAL CENTER. A bit farther afield but worth the trip is the MIANUS RIVER PARK, a 391-acre reserve along the border of Greenwich and Stamford. In spring, when the dogwoods bloom, fishermen angle for trout in the fast-flowing current. In summer, the park is a magnet for walkers, joggers and mountain bikers. Many of the main trails are flat enough and wide enough for strollers, so it’s not unusual to see entire families out for leisurely strolls on sunny days.

HISTORY IN THE MAKING

BUSH-HOLLEY HOUSE Recognized as the home of American Impressionism, the Bush-Holley House (c. 1728) on Strickland Road was once a boarding house and studio for such renowned artists as Henry Twachtman, Elmer McRae and Childe Hassam, together known as the Cos Cob Art Colony. This national historic landmark remains the centerpiece of what has recently became the Historical Society’s impressive new campus.

ERNEST THOMPSON SETON In 1902, Ernest Thompson Seton, author and wildlife artist, visited Cos Cob School and invited some boys to spend a weekend camping in teepees and canoeing on his 100-acre estate on Orchard Street. He would become a founder of the Boy Scouts of America.

VOLUNTEER FIRE COMPANY Since 1922, the Cos Cob Volunteer Fire Company has been a landmark on the Post Road. It’s come a long way from the Mianus Ladder & Hose Company, which in 1900 could take pride in owning the first automotive pumper built at Mianus Boatworks.

Central Greenwich

AREA: EXIT 3 OFF I-95 • HIGHLIGHTS: WORLD-CLASS SHOPPING AND DINING; THE BRUCE MUSEUM; GREENWICH LIBRARY

BOTH SOPHISTICATED AND SPORTY, the area referrerd to as Central Greenwich has come a long way since it got its start as a farming community in the seventeenth century. In 1686, Native Americans traded the tract of land between the Byram and Mianus rivers for just 30 acres of planting ground. This spit of land that juts out into the Sound off Field Point Road was called Horseneck because it served as pastureland for horses in the 1700s. For nearly a century it was the town’s principal farming area and supplied produce to New York City. The arrivals of the railroad in the 1800s brought a name change and with it a new source of revenue: tourists. By the twentieth century the subdivisions created throughout the area had melded into distinct neighborhoods within the larger Greenwich community. Among them were MILBROOK, a residential enclave of Tudor homes and a private nine-hole golf club tucked off Route 1; BELLE HAVEN, a gated waterfront community with its own yacht club; and FIELD POINT PARK, also the site of a race track for seasonal entertainment.

By the mid-1950s Greenwich had become a desirable bedroom community for Wall Street and Madison Avenue executives, and many of the town’s support workers lived in the modest dwellings that lined Mason and Milbank Avenues. To meet the growing popularity of in-town living, most of those homes have been transformed into new construction properties with all the bells and whistles necessary for modern life. Other sought-after neighborhoods include MEAD POINT, MAHER AVENUE (a very busy location for trick-or-treating on Halloween) and ROCK RIDGE off Zaccheus Mead Lane.

Today, Central Greenwich has it all, from grand waterfront properties and spacious wooded tracts to condominiums, multi- and single-family residences within walking distance of Greenwich Avenue. It offers new homeowners the best of all worlds: a diverse landscape, easy access to the town’s celebrated cultural and recreational activities, and proximity to a multitude of shops and restaurants.

The downtown area comprises name-brand stores and smaller independent boutiques, as well as sundry restaurants, coffee shops, bakeries, gelaterias and juice bars. Here, too, are cultural landmarks, such as the BRUCE MUSEUM, which has embarked on a multimillion-dollar renovation and expansion, the GREENWICH LIBRARY, JULIAN CURTISS ELEMENTARY SCHOOL, TOWN HALL, the GREENWICH ARTS COUNCIL, the YMCA, YWCA, even WHOLE FOODS. Clearly there’s a lot to see and do, but be forewarned: One of the town’s most beloved traditions has been the presence of uniformed cops directing traffic at the intersections along Greenwich Ave. It’s a foolproof way to distinguish between residents and daytrippers, who don’t know to wait for an officer’s permission to cross.

At the end of the Avenue, on the far side of the train station, Greenwich Harbor is home to a luxury hotel and restaurant—THE DELAMAR—which attracts a lively after-work drinks crowd. From Memorial Day to Labor Day the ferries depart several times a day from the docks, bound for ISLAND BEACH and GREAT CAPTAIN’S ISLAND, town-owned parks with beaches and picnic areas. Here, too, is ROGER SHERMAN BALDWIN PARK, a waterfront green space that hosts several major events every year, including the Memorial Day kickoff to the Greenwich Town Party, the Concours d’Elegance car show in May and Adopt-a-Dog’s Puttin’ on the Dogs and Cats, Too festival in September.

HISTORY IN THE MAKING

GREENWICH POLICE DEPARTMENT Cross! Here is Jim Fahey in 1910, an early predecessor of the police officers who still direct traffic on the Avenue, a Greenwich tradition. Starting with a night watchman in 1854, the Avenue has changed with the appearance of automobiles, then trolleys and buses, and from two-way to one-way parking, but our traffic cops have always been on duty.

BRUCE MUSEUM In 1908 Robert Moffatt Bruce, a wealthy textile merchant, deeded his land and mansion overlooking the Sound to the town for an art, natural science and history museum. Today it attracts 90,000 visitors a year, is considered a top regional museum and, with a $60-million expansion now underway, it will more than double its size and become more prestigious than ever.

GREENWICH LIBRARY In 1917, the town appropriated $1,000 to keep afloat a small book-lending center and reading room on Greenwich Avenue where Saks is now. From this humble beginning came our outstanding Greenwich Library on West Putnam. With its branches, the library boasts 10.3 visits annually per capita, more than any other Connecticut municipality. It once received the largest bequest given a community library ($25 million) and is undergoing yet another major expansion.

You know you’re in Central Greenwich when: You’re able to stroll down the bustling Avenue, while still accessing beautiful green space and town beaches.

You know you’re in the Backcountry when: A classic Connecticut landscape comes into view, with stone walls, parklands, horse pastures and grand estates.

Backcountry & Mid-Country

AREA: EXIT 28–31 OFF MERRITT PARKWAY • HIGHLIGHTS: GREENWICH AUDUBON; RIDING TRAILS; SAM BRIDGE NURSERY

AMONG THE MANY CHARACTERISTICS that set Greenwich apart from its suburban counterparts, is the breathtakingly beautiful— and classic Connecticut—landscape. Travel a few minutes from downtown, and the scenery changes dramatically: winding tree-lined roads, rivers, lakes and ponds, centuriesold stone walls, white-fenced pastures with grazing horses. This bucolic area, known as backcountry Greenwich, sits north of the Merritt Parkway and is bordered by Westchester County to the west and north, and Stamford to the east. Here is where many of the town’s golf clubs and parklands are located, including the Audubon Center with its superb Kimberlin Nature Center, and the 300-acre Babcock Nature Preserve with bridle paths and hiking trails. Meanwhile, for those who want to be closer to downtown and local schools, mid-country is the term coined for the area that lies south of the Merritt Parkway, and encompasses residential neighborhoods such as Deer Park and Khakum Wood. It is also home to the venerable Sam Bridge Nursery & Greenhouses on North Street, a family-owned business that dates to 1930.

The town’s story begins in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, when, thanks to the railroad, Greenwich became a magnet for some of the country’s wealthiest industrialists and financiers. They scooped up large plots of land to build grand estates, some on the water, others spread throughout what would later become known as the backcountry and midcountry. Many of those original mansions have been destroyed; two that remain are Dunnellen Hall, once home to Leona and Harry Helmsley, and Old Mill Farm, a former home of Mel Gibson. In most cases, though, the land where the mansions stood has been divided up to make way for more modern dwellings.

Today, mid-country and the backcountry comprise nearly two-thirds of the town’s geography. Four-acre zoning is the rule in most of the backcountry, while one and twoacre zoning is most common in mid-country. Thanks to the preservation efforts of the GREENWICH LAND TRUST and the generosity of a number of Greenwich property owners, there is still a large amount of open space remaining. So much so that, against all odds, the 106-year-old GREENWICH RIDING & TRAILS ASSOCIATION, a group of horse enthusiasts, has managed to maintain a network of 150- plus miles of riding trails. And though the stables at Round Hill are long gone, scores of horse-crazy girls still learn to ride at KELSEY’S FARM at the top of Lake Avenue, just as they have done for decades. The backcountry is also home to the GREENWICH POLO CLUB, which organizes top-level competitions throughout the summer. Also on the grounds is the BRANT FOUNDATION ART AND STUDY CENTER, which specializes in work by contemporary artists. Pony club, hunter paces and the iconic Greenwich Horse Show are still an important part of the Greenwich scene.

Farther up North Street, the tidy burg of Banksville straddles the New York state line. Settled in 1700, Banksville was a quiet farming community for nearly 200 years. In 1904 Edmund Converse, the founder of U.S. Steel, acquired more than 1,000 acres to create Greenwich’s greatest estate, with 40 buildings and a staff of 200. Farming operations continued until 1960. In the 1980s, the land was sold to the CONYERS FARM PARTNERSHIP and subdivided into 60 lots, each with a 10- acre minimum. Conyers Farm has since been home to well-known residents who enjoy the privacy afforded by the zoning restrictions. There are no restaurants or shops in the backcountry, but there are several nurseries, as well as a small market, café and new fitness center in Banksville. There’s also a general store on Round Hill Road opposite the firehouse.

HISTORY IN THE MAKING

GREENWICH RIDING & TRAILS With 150 miles of marked paths, some dating back to the Revolutionary War, Greenwich has been a special place for horselovers, including Alva Gimbel shown jumping sidesaddle in the ’30s; and for the past 105 years, GRTA volunteers have worked hard to preserve the bridle trails and open space, educate landowners and organize horse shows, Hunt Balls and other popular events.

MERRITT PARKWAY Winding through 37 pastoral miles in Fairfield County, the Merritt Parkway has complemented our backcountry beauty with its handsome Art Deco bridges and bypasses for 80 years. No trucks, no billboards, no commercial buildings. And led by Peter Malkin of the Merritt Parkway Conservancy, we plan to keep it that way.

PETITE TRIANON DEUX On North Street is Northway, built between 1910-1913 by Laura Robinson, the young heiress to the Goodyear Tire and Diamond Match fortunes, who got permission from France to copy the 18th-century chateau at Versailles. A later owner, Rene Anselmo, a satellite communications entrepreneur, beautified Greenwich by outlawing “For sale” signs and planting thousands of daffodils on North Street.

Byram AREA: EXIT 2 OFF I-95 • HIGHLIGHTS: GOOD EATS FOR BUDDING FOODIES; FAMILY-FRIENDLY PARKS

BYRAM, A TINY SPIT OF LAND JUTTING from the state’s westernmost boundary and just across the Mill River Bridge from Port Chester, New York, has revitalized dramatically over the past decade. Manhattan transplants and young families have discovered its hipster charm and diverse housing options, many of which are within easy walking distance of shops, restaurants and nightlife on both sides of the river. Like the rest of Greenwich, Byram has a rich history. Tucked into the southwest corner of town and edged by the Byram River and Long Island Sound, it was first settled in 1660 by Thomas Lyon. It has been known by many names over the years, including Lyon’s Point, New Lebanon, Meadville and even East Port Chester. Prior to World War II, residents in this densely populated neighborhood (approximately one square mile) benefitted from jobs produced by the Abendroth Brothers Foundary, which made stoves and pots. After the war, the area suffered an economic downturn when the factory closed. The turnaround has been significant, as the neighborhood has been transformed by a new generation of home-buyers. Though it is not served directly by Metro-North’s New Haven line, commuters catch trains in Port Chester. Waterfront estates with gated entrances and unimpeded views of Long Island Sound stretch along picturesque Byram Shore Road, while more modest homes edge the inlets that feed into the Byram River and the sidewalk-lined blocks that fan out from the village center.

Restaurateurs have discovered the appeal of Byram’s location, not far from I-95. The popular BURGER, SHAKES & FRIES opened nearly a decade ago and continues to serve a hearty lunch crowd; CHAR offers a river view from its perch on Water Street. Also on Water Street, FAMOUS GREEK KITCHEN has been serving traditional fare for more than three decades. Just across the river, foodies gravitate to an array of offerings from Mexican to Peruvian to Spanish cuisine. (Don’t miss THE KNEADED BREAD bakery.) Down the street on Willett Avenue, an outpost of the stylish tacqueria BARTACO features a prime riverfront setting. THE CAPITOL THEATRE on Westchester Avenue showcases the biggest names in the music industry, as well as supporting local bands. The BYRAM SHUBERT LIBRARY, now in its seventh location since its original founding in 1931, is a curvilinear modern building with a variety of enrichment programs for kids and adults. And here’s more good news for parents of school-age kids: The community’s new elementary school opened a year ago. One of four elementary magnet schools in Greenwich, the “green” school is designed to serve 374 students from pre-K to fifth grade. In additon to 21 classrooms, it features a centrally located learning commons, adaptable furniture and state-of-the-art technology, among other things. The 30-acre BYRAM SHORE AND ROSENWALD PARK is a manicured green space, with beautifully tended flower beds, that hugs the Sound. It was built over the remains of a bluestone quarry. Here you will find tennis courts, a snug beach, boat slips, play areas and a new community pool with dedicated lap lanes, a cardio exercise area, pool for young children, splash pad and modern snack bar. There are docks along the Byram River, where a local landmark—RUDY’S TACKLE BARN—has been selling fishing equipment for more than a century. The DOROTHY HAMILL SKATING RINK on Sherman Avenue, named for the Greenwich native and Olympic gold medalist, offers ice-skating and figure-skating programs.

HISTORY IN THE MAKING

QUARRIES From the 1800s on, stonemasons flocked to the area to be near the Byram quarries, which supplied the bluestone for the Brooklyn Bridge and the Statue of Liberty, along with St. Roch’s Church and the tower on Shell Island. You can still see the steep sides of a quarry in Byram Shore Park.

SHELL ISLAND TOWER The 60-foot tower on Shell Island off Byram Shore was built by chemist Otto Elmer in 1925 as a family museum. One floor was devoted to Thomas Edison memorabilia, Elmer’s company being Edison’s official glassblower. In 1991, the five-acre island sold to Byram resident Julius Silver, who donated it to the Greenwich Land Trust as a nature preserve.

THOMAS LYON HOUSE Built in the 1690s, the Thomas Lyon House is one of the two oldest houses in Greenwich. In 1927, when Putnam Avenue was widened, it was moved across the road to its present location at the corner of West Putnam and Byram Road. It once sheltered an escaped slave and has been inducted into the Connecticut Freedom Trail.

You know you are in Byram when: You can explore Byram Park, the family-friendly library or quaint walkways connecting shops and restaurants.

You know you are in Glenville when: You enter a bucolic hamlet with a mill-town past and welcoming, neighborhood atmosphere.

Glenville

AREA: EXIT 27 OFF MERRITT PARKWAY • HIGHLIGHTS: THE LOW-KEY COMMUNAL VIBE ATTRACTS FIRST-TIME HOMEBUYERS

A FORMER MILL TOWN, THIS SMALL HAMLET on the western side of Greenwich shares a border with Westchester and provides easy access to King Street, the Merritt Parkways and—most of all— Westchester County Airport. Largely residential in feel, despite its industrial past, the area derives its name from its distinctive topography—a central, winding valley running in an east-west direction and the steep-sided Byram River, which runs northsouth. This glen and steep, partially wooded hills provides a natural route for Glenville Road, the area’s principal thoroughfare, which leads to downtown Greenwich two miles away.

In 1774, Baptist settlers founded the tiny mill town, establishing their church by the Byram River. Back then, Glenville was called Sherwood’s Bridge, named for the viaduct that spans the Byram River and honors one of the area’s earliest residents. The river’s powerful falls were first harnessed in 1718 with the opening of a gristmill and a sawmill. Industrial activity picked up in 1814 with the opening of the Byram Manufacturing Company, which produced woolens. The company changed hands several times before becoming the Hawthorne Mill Company and, eventually, the AMERICAN FELT COMPANY at the turn of the twentieth century. The mill turned out the majority of felt for hats made in the United States. It operated until the mid-1970s. The area was renamed Glenville in the nineteenth century, because from the top of any hill in the area a person could see down to Glenville Road. The town was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 2007.

After lying dormant for several decades, the American Felt Company’s historic Gothic Revival brick building was renovated. It’s now home to two restaurants, each with outdoor dining terraces, office space, condominiums, and the original branch of one of Fairfield County’s most successful yoga studio franchises. With its scenic millpond and waterfall, this area is a lovely spot for an afternoon stroll or picnic lunch. Among the notable features on display in the town’s historic district are examples of Romanesque Revival, Queen Anne, Georgian Revival and Italianate architecture.

In addition to its strategic location, part of the community’s appeal is its low-key vibe, which attracts first-time homebuyers who are looking for a neighborhood feel. A small, commercial block houses one of the town’s most beloved restaurants: REBECCA’S, whose innovative New American cuisine attracts a loyal lunch and dinner crowd. There is also a small retail center with a grocery store, dry cleaner, bank and, of course, a pizzeria. A little farther afield, on West Putnam Avenue, the New York City-based CITARELLA opened its first Greenwich outpost in 2015. The largest of its seven gourmet markets, this branch has a wine store next-door. The Western GREENWICH CIVIC CENTER is also in Glenville; its 10 acres of parkland include two ball fields, a playground and the whitecolumned Georgian brick building—the former school—is now a gathering spot for the community. Nearby, the 44-acre Pemberwick Park has places for basketball, baseball and soccer fields, and tennis courts. The current elementary school—still referred to as the new school—moved to its present location on Riversville Road in 1975; it underwent a major renovation and re-opened with modern amenities in 2009.

HISTORY IN THE MAKING

EDMUND C. CONVERSE In 1904, Edmund Converse, founder of U.S. Steel, built Conyers Manor, a profitable estate that sold tons of produce and dairy products and employed a large number of townspeople. By 1913, he owned 1,330 acres. Conyers Farm is now the site of 60 lovely homes that have been owned by celebrated residents such as Ron Howard, Allan Huston and David Stockman.

AMERICAN FELT COMPANY In 1899, a mill by the waterfall in Glenville became the American Felt Company, where Polish immigrants turned out most of the felt for hats made in America. That changed in the mid-1970s when it was converted into a complex for shops and restaurants.

GLENVILLE SCHOOL Dating back to 1756, Glenville’s one-room schoolhouse served the community around the gristmill; by 1882, it was a two-story brick building serving mostly Irish immigrants who worked in the textile mill; and on Pemberwick Road in the 1920s architect James O. Betelle designed a Georgian Revival-style school that became the Western Civic Center in 1975.