Evolution of Cosmeticsand Cosmeceuticals in Unani Medicine:A historical perspective by MOHD AKHTAR ALI

Hamiduddin et. al.:Evolution of cosmeceuticals in Unani medicine

Evolution of Cosmeticsand Cosmeceuticals in Unani Medicine:A historical perspective '.Hamiduddin,'AkhtarAli,'Wasim Ahmad 'Lecturer, Dept. of llmul Saidla (Unani Pharmacy), 'Lecturer, Dept of Kulliyat, National lnstitute of Unani Medicine, Kottigepalya, Magadi main Road, Bengaluru

- 91

'Assistant Professor, Dept.of llmulsaidla (UnaniPharmacy), Z.H. UnaniMedicalCollage& Hospital, Siwan *Correspo

n d in

g a utho r, Ema

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Abstract Since ancient time man has treated skin with care because it is easily visible and unprotected. Around

4000 BC

first archaeological evidence of cosmetics

usage was found

in ancient

EgyPt. The use

perfumes, oils, burning of aromatic incense, copper eye shadows,lamp black for eyes and dying of hairs

red were in practice by ancient Egyptians. Cosmetic disease is a disease affecting only appearance. Cosmetics (Mawad tajmil) and cosmeceuticals are applied for improvement of appearance. Ancient

Unani literature is very rich in cosmeceutical formulations taking care of appearance and dealing with cosmetic diseases

in humans. Evolution of cosmetics and cosmeceuticals in Unani

medicine was

explored by the work of eminent Unani (Greeko-Arabic) Physicians. Work of pre and post Hippocratic

era,Galen,labir ibnHayyan,'AllbinTabrl, al-Kindl, Zakarlyyaal-Razl, al-Qumrl, al-Majusl, al-Zohrawt, ,{vicenna, Abu Sahl al-Masihl, Ahmad QalyDbI, Ismail lurjanl, lbn Zuhr, Said lbn Haibatullah, Ibn Hubal,

Ibn al-Tilmldh, al-Samarqandl,IbnNafis, Da'ud al-Antakl,Ibn al-Atn Zurbl, Hakrm Hasan mirza.This systematic review can

be concluded that various cosmetics and cosmeceuticals prevailing in

contemporary era may have been introduced or inspired by these physicians. Invention of different types of perfumes, deodorants and anti per-spirant, after-bath lotions, powders, sprinkles, pastes, sprays, eye care, skin care, hair care, hair and skin dye, formulations for hyperpigmentation and hypopigmentation

skin disorders and nail care etc. They even described cosmetics for prevention from sunburn and air and also drug for aesthetic problems of the body. These formulations and drugs are foundation of many present day cosmeceuticals and they can be cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. They can be

a a

good resource for development of effective and innovative very good choice owing to their range, low cost and safety

and can also be incorporated as an adjuvant in several contemporarypreparations.

Keywords: Cosmetics, Cosmeceuticals, Unani Medicine, historical, Greek, formulations

Introduction

early period, they used vegetable leaves, flower, color,

The use of cosmetics as a substance to enhance or

animal part, stones, shell etc to adorn there body'since

protect the beauty ofthe human body dates back to very

antiquity man has treated skin with care because it is

fournal of Research in Unani Medicine, 2016,5 (2)

Hamiduddin et. al.:Evohtion of cosmeceuticals in Unani medicine Leasily

visible and unprotected and its disorders can be

skin body and hair, lips and cheeks paint, henna nail

obnoxious, abominable and can also be deadly. Skin

stain, kohl

disease or cosmetic disease are taken to be social illness

handle these carefully during its early stages itself.'The

part of Egyptian culture '.Around 4000 BC first archaeological evidence for its usage was found in EgFpt. The use of perfumes, oils and burning of

word'cosmetae'was first used to describe Roman slaves

aromatic incense were in practice, mixture of fragrant,

whose role was to bathe men and women in perfume'.

gums resin and wood were burnt in ancient time by

Ancient Unani literature is full of herbal / traditional

Egyptians. Copper was used as eye shadows, lamp black

regardless of their organic aspects, physician had to

cosmetic

cosmeceuticals formulations, In

Eye liners). Cosmetics were an inherent

(Kajal) was commonly used for eyes dying of hairs red

contemporary era cosmetics and cosmeceuticals are

was also practiced.aCleansing cream made of animal

considered to be essential commodities of life and these

vegetable oil mixed with powdered lime was used, also

Unani cosmetics and cosmeceuticals can be very good

perfumed salve oil soaked in scented wood was used.

choice owing to its range, low cost and safety. It can also

Perfumed oil was used as a moisturizer. People of all

incorporate as an adjuvant

several contemporary

ages or gender were using makeup. Egyptians also used

preparations.

mouth freshener and perfumes. Incense cubes were

Cosmetics (Mawad tajmrl) are the external

prepared by mixing grounded gums and plants with

preparations which are applied to skin, hair, nails, for

honey, this similar technique used by the Babylonians

various purposes like protecting, covering, colouring,

that the Greeks and Romans adopted.'

beautifying or improvement of appearance.aCosmetic

A couple of evidences of cosmetic usage are available in

that has or is claimed to have medicinal properties is

China around 3000 BC. Chinese people used to stain

called as cosmeceuticals. Cosmeceuticals is the combination of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals', Cosmetic disease is a disease fficting only appearance (It

their fingernails. Royals of Chou dynasty used to wore

disfiguring but

imported from India, rosewater from Persiavia the silk

harmless, causing no phy sical pain or disability). The line

route and Indonesian aromatics through India. Materia

between cosmetic diseases and other conditions is not too

Medica Pen

clear example, female hirsutism and leucoderma and on

the 16th century describes 2000 herbs, it also contains a

the other hand there seems to be some disagreement

separate section

about the status of acne, rosacea, and some types of

Chinese people also used to paint their finger nails and

psoriasis'.

its colour brightness symbolized the status of

is a condition that is embarrassing, even

gold and silver and later black or red colour. They used fragrance and incense, |asmine-scented sesame oil was

bo which was published in China during

on 20 essential oils. 'The

ancient

the

person. Similarlythe earliest evidence of use oflipsticks

Cosmeceuticals

Pre and post Hippocratic era:

was found

|apanese Geisha (Traditional |apanese

Early Egyptian men and women as early as 10,000 BC

female entertainers) th"y used crushed petals of

were using scented oils, ointments (to clean and soften

safflower on lips and they also used

skin and maskbody odour), dyes and paints (to colour

eyebrows.'Henna has been used in India since 4th or 5s

|ournal of Research in Unani Medicine, 20L6,5 (2)

as outliner

r Hamiduddin et. al.:Evolution of cosmeceuticals in Unani medicine hair dye or in the art / painted on to

plants. Diocles, his disciple, has created a work in four

the hands and feet, especially before wedding, it was

volumes, which contained recipes for ointments and

masks based on vegetable raw materials for skin, nails

;penturies either

as a

also used in North Africa. Special bathing cosmetics

the form of Ubton are widely used in India and turmeric

and hair care. In Rome PliryrtheElder left work detail

preparations are used by newly married brides during

daily care, for example, the lotion of almond oil with

their wedding. India was also famous in the earlier days

milk, white lead face powder, tooth powder of pumice

for using ftr, (scents in

concentrated form) made from

various Indian flowers' fragrances. The use of kaj al also has

long history in the Hindu culture.'

and crushedhorns.'

Galen (f29 AD

lalinus: The Roman physician was the author of first textbook of c.E2f6)

Ancient Greeks in manyways learns from the Egyptians

cosmetology. He was the first who on a scientific basis

and even coined the word "cosmetics", which means

divided decorative cosmetics (masking the

"the art of decorating." Ancient Greece cosmetology

shortcomings of the skin) and therapeutic (to preserve

developed not onlyin the decorative direction, but also

the natural beauty of the skin).'Galen had invented idea

therapeutic.'Ancient Romans used oil and animal fat

of cold cream and first cooling ointment*In

for cosmetic purpose (to maintain style and shape of

formuia of cream (Ceratum refrigerans Galeni) he gave

hair).'The roman bath still is very famous where the

the idea of melting together bees wax, almond oil and

men's body were steamed, some special massage with

oil of rose/rose water for making cold cream "

oils and perfumes are rubbed into skin ''nln ancient

Cosmetics were used

in Middle

East

Galens

/ Persia from

Yabrooj (Atropa belladonna

ancient periods. Particularly after Arab converted to

Linn.) is known as ladies killer due to its alkaloid

lslam, in some areas cosmetics were restricted if they

atropine, a pupil dilator used as an eye drop to make

were

their eyes attractive and beautiful.'Ancient Greek was

Cosmetic use was increase as all branches of Islam

rich in fragrance, world aromata describe incense,

promotes purity and cleanliness, whether physical or

perfumes, spices, and aromatic medicine. Concoction

spiritual.'The rise

named as megaleion, manufactured by Megallus

importance of personal hygiene and fragrance uses has

contains burnt resin, cinnamon, myrrh and cassia and

gain the popularity.'Deodorants and anti-sweating are

for the treatment of wound and

not recent cosmetics, they appeared many centuries

Greece culture, Luffah

was used

to disguise the real look in order to

of Islam in the Arab

inflammation.'o

ago. The form is changes but

Work of Greco-Arabian physician in the field of

cosmetics

cosmeceuticals is mentioned below

mislead.

increases

similarity in some aspects

there. Number ofA rab physicians did not distinguish

between odor removers and anti-sweating materials.

chronological order

This classification remained as such for

Hippocrates (Buqrat) 460 - c. 370 BCz Buqrat has

centuries, containing smell removers and sweat-sealers.

advocated importance of diet, exercise, sunlight, baths

They contained

and massage for good health and beauty

Hippocrates

left a lot of information on body care using medicinal

several

high ratio of deodorant aromatic oils.

Works of (Razes), (Avicenna) and (Ibn al-Tilmrdh), have proved this."Many progress

|ournal of Research in Unani Medicine, 2016,5 (2)

manufacturing

Hamiduddin et. al.:Evolution of cosmeceuticals in Unani medicine

perfume, were transferred from the Islamic world to

caliphates, and were in the Mamulat (routine use) in

medieval Europe". The Arab and Persian have

Hammams, these formulations includes after-bath

bright

history in respect of cosmetology and cosmeceuticals.

The contribution

Greeko-Arab and Persian

lotions, powders, sprinkles, pastes, sprays etc.'uHe describe Tinea capitis'

in this field. Since many

Aba Yfrsuf Yu'qilb ibn 'Is$dq uE-$abbdlt ul-KindI

centuries various physician of Unani TIbb haye added

(Alkindus 801-873 AD).' He was an Arabian chemist, in

several formulations as a contrivance for body organs

9th centuryhewrote abookon perfumes named as'The

such as head, hair, colour of skin, glowing of bushra

Kitab Kimiya'

physicians

immense

(skin), beutification

of lips and

al-'ltr'

(Book of the Chemistry of

eyes etc. These

Perfume).'u'" It describes many essential oil, including

formulations and drugs are specially mentioned in

imported Chinese camphor.loIt contained recipes for

cosmetic ingredients.

fragrant oils, aromatic waters and salves. The book also

hold 107 methods / instruction and recipes for making

Important Arab lUnani physician and their work on

cosmetics and cosmeceuticals: Cosmetics for beatification offace, body, skin care, hair care and for

skin. Cosmetic diseases have also been described by various renowned Unani physicians. Work done by

them and detail

of their Script /

Voluminous

manuscript are mentioned below

Abu Mitsd labir ibn Hayyan (Geber, 721-815, Iraq)Jab* developed many techniques, including distillation, evaporation and filtration, which enabled the collection of the odour of plants into a vapour that could be collected in the form of water or oil. Jabt ibn

Hayyan have immense role

establishment of the

perfume industry.'u''o

Abu al-Hasan

Ali ibn Sahl Rabban al-Tabdrt

(838-870 AD): He hase included skin, face, Sadyain (breast), eyes, teeth's, indame nahani ki tangr, zeb wa

zeenat (makeup/beatification) bashra

in the category of

of general skin

and

Tajmll (beautification /

cosmetics), his text Firdous al-Hikmdh contained at

least 300 formulation of cosmetics distributed

chapters, in which several formulations are those which

were being

in personal use of Omavi and Abbasid

perfume by using 106 different ingrediants from plant

and 11 of animal and 9 of mineral origin. He even mentioned the perfume making equipment, like the alembic which still bears its Arabic name."Al-Kindi to

produce various scent and their product carried out extensive research and experiments on various plants

and other sources and on their combinations.He mentioned in detail many'recipes'for

extensive range

of perfumes, cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Several witness reported his work on perfumes and ghAliya (Fragrant powder), containing mush amber and other

ingredients. He also discloses list related to technical names of drugs and apparatts.'uAl-Kindi has played immense role in establishment of the perfume industry he can be considered as real founder."

Abu Bakr Muhammad ihn Zakariyya al-Razt (Zakariya Razi)/ Razes (854-925):He had established

chapter on cosmetology and principles for beatifications under the name "Zeenat wa araish" in his

famous book"Kitab al-Mansuri'It was first separate chapter

/ writing in cosmeticology." Taqdseem al-Ilal

written by Zakariyya al-Razl (554-925 AD) is a great and very famous book

fournal of Research in Unani Medicine, 2016,5 (2)

in [Jnani medicine. In this book 75

medicine Hamiduddin et. al-:Evolulion of cosmeceuticals in Unani 105m chapter

is specially related to cosmetology' He

(black' mentioned all types of hair cosmetics like dyes white, brown, red) hair conditioner, hair straighten'

rose. Then

the dry components are crushed with

by old butchers broom water and saffron, and dissolved rehani syruP and used'."

hair protector, hair stronger, hair longer' hair rapid grower, hair remover / depilatories, hair thinner'

Abii Man;frr al-I.Iasdn ibn Nilfi al'Qumri (d' shortly was after 990 AD ) : He was the teacher of lbn SIna and

Al-Hawiby al-Razris (diets & related to Qawanln of Makulat-o-Mashrubaf of beverages) and some Usul-i-Ilai (principals is treatments), cosmetics disease of hair and skin

he court physician to the prince al Man5ur' to whom the dedicated the only treatise by him that is preserved'

epilatories.'oThe

XXIII volume

to disease to principal ofbeverages and second is related

and Kitab at-Ghin6 wa-al-m',n6(The Book of Wealth alWishes), which was also known as al-Shamslyah its ManWarryah (The Mansurian Sunshade) after dedicatee. In this cosmeceuticdls are mentioned'"

of hair and skin, especially eczema and its types with

His Ali lbn Aboss al-Majusi al-Ahwdzi(died 982-994):

Tib very good experienced remedies'"' In Al-Havi Fil he describes treatment of alopecia arerta and medina

special book "Al-Kahhala fi kamil al-Sind' alTibbiya' is related to ophthalmology in details' Many prevention types of eye diseases are described in it with

related mentioned. It is divided into two volumes one is

Dracunculiasis'.Razi talked about odor removers in his book Ktab al-Hawi fi'l-Ttb' in Part

worm

in and treatment. Some cosmetics are also mentioned

under the titl e"whatremovesbad smell and

natf this book, he mentioned method of treatment like

it' and sweat stink, urine and stool stink, andwhat softens powders that perfume the body" ' Razes followed internal

al-Sha'r (picking of eye iashes), tanqiae badan and of formulation for entropian hke matbukh (decoction)

and external method to perfume (provide pleasant smell to the) the body, he mentioned about coating the

purgative drugs, tila of dame zifda'(Iaminent of frog btood) mainly consist of naushadar and jundbedastar'

body with leaves of Cypress-tree and the oil of its flowers, and eat Cubeb pepper and Cassia-tree' and for

There is also mentioned of condition such as excessive

Syrtp (grape juice with

and applicationof mastagl. He also mentionedbaldness

23,volume

stinking

sweat Rehani

is eye lashes and for this management process

plucking

carnations andwood and so on), Artichoke' Asparagus'

of eye brow and eye lashes treatment like application

cooked wild-thyme, butchers broom, rose' sweet

marham dakhiliy unafter purgative therapy' Mentioned most useful eye cosmetic as single drugs, ate zarawand

marjoram, moss and sweet flag' Razes mentioned odor removing compounds and anti-sweating ones

the

and haiyul aalam. This book was published

in Arabic

example: we take one ounce of for example: one ounce

text from Wazarah al-saqafah wa al-Irshad al-Islami Dimashq in 1997."Mapsi in 'Kamil as-Sana'ah''

of cinnamon-tree and Indianvalerian and azzfdr al-teeb

described differentibl diagnosis

(covering of a kind of shellfish), two ounces of each one'

tuberculoidleProsY.'

and half ounce of lake mud, graphite slag and washed one ounce of with judean wormwood and

Abu'al Qassim al-Zohrdwi or Abulcassis (936-1013

ceruse,

AD): He was a cosmetologist and Arab physician' he

Roman valerian and three ounces of saffron and dried

wrote voluminous medical encyclope diaKitab al-Tasrlf

For same prescription and distinguishedbetween them'

2016' 5 (2) Journal of Research in'Uhani Medicine,

of lepromatous

and

Hamiduddin et. al.:,Evohttion of cosmeceuticals in Unani medicine

li man'Ajtza'An al-Ta'llf in 30 volume. In this Chapter

by means of distillation. He improve distillation, the

devoted to cosmetics .''n Al-Zohrawl mentioned the

procedure is most commonly used today. He first

19 is

benefits of suntan lotions he contributed

in making

experimented with the rose, one of his 100 books was

under-arm deodorants, hair removing sticks, hand

devoted to roses. Before his discovery, liquid perfumes

lotions, hair dyes for blond & black hair and for hair

used were mixtures of oil, crushed herbs and petals

care, even for correcting kinky or curly hair describing

which make a strong blend. Rose water was more

their ingredients in detail. For bad breath he suggested

delicate, and immediately became popular, distillation

cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamom, chewing on coriander

technology significantly influenced western perfumer

leaves, fried cheese in olive oil seasoned with powdered

and scientifi c developments particularly chemistry.'u'o

cloves. He included methods

the

In "Canon of Medicine "Ibn Srna explains treatment of

gums and bleaching the teeth. He mentioned perfumes,

various skin diseases, with preventive measures as a

scented aromatics and incense, perfumed stocks rolled

warning. He firstly suggested that'cosmetic skin defects

and pressed in special moulds (perhaps the initial

are associated with the health of internal

of the present day lipsticks and solid deodorants). He used oily substances (Adhan) for

organs'.'Aicenna in third article of the fourth book of

al-Qanunfi'l TIbb under the title "in treatingbad smell

medication and beautification.'Al-Zohrawl distinct

of skin in general." and "a chapter: in describing a powder

branch of medication and the drugs used

which perfumes body and benefits hot tempered people".

for strengthening

antecedents

cosmetics as

to improve the beauty

Advla Muzayyenah / Adwtyat

al-Zinah. On the basis

He encouraged bathing, eating whatis digestible in

'Hadtths al-Zohrawl was

manner and quantity, eating what canperfume body

described the care and beautification ofhair, skin, teeth

and remoye sweat odour on empty stomach, likeCubeb

and other parts of the body, within the boundaries

Pepper, Cassia-tree, Parsley, Artichoke, Asparagus,and

Islam. He recommend "MuthallAthat", prepared from

plants which expels urine and purifies blood fromstink.

camphor, musk and honey, very much like Vicks

He also encouraged coating the body with

Vapour Rub, for cold relief. Other cosmeceutical forms

butchersbroom water and water with Yemen alum and

which were considered of twentieth century were

irissyrup i He also used liniment ofbutchers broom and

already present in Muslim Spain and are described by

white sandal, oil of butcher's broom, oil of rose used

al-Zohrawl they include nasal sprays, mouth washes

drug that blocks pores and prevents sweat, like burnt

and hand creams. He suggested keeping clothes in an

lead, zinc, and alum. Avicenna not distinguishes

incense-filled nook ("Lenor") for providing fragrance to

between odour removers and anti-sweating

the clothes. Taking flowers to the sick in hospital is not a

materials."lb n Sina give description of varic ella in al-

recent tradition; al-Zohrawt advocated this custom

Qanun

thousandyears ago.'n

(swelling atnails).'

Ibn Sina, al-Shaykh al-Ra'is Abu'Ali al-Husdyn ibn 'Abd Allah /Avicenna (980-f037 AD} Ibn Sina

Abu Sahl'Isa ibn Yahya al-Masihi al-Jurjfuni (972-

introduced the process of extracting oils from flowers

fi'l

Ttbb,he make his discourse on perionychia

1010 AD): He has written Al-mi'a fi-l-sana'a altabi'iyyAh.The 19'h chapter is related to scent and cloths.

|ournal of Research in Unani Medicine, 2016, 5 (2)

Hamiduddin et. al.:Evofution of cosmeceuticals in Unani medicine

In this chapter he described about scent like

mushk,

cosmetology

for dryness and its related

cosmetic

anbar, ood, kafur, lazin, sandal za'faran; about 20 oils

problems. He also mentioned cosmetics for nails its

related to cosmeticslike roghane gul, roghane nargis,

cracking, scaling and brittling along with cracking of

roghane

hina etc and other relevant cosmetics /

soles and other details. According

to Ibn abi

usaiba

cosmeceutical and dressings."

another book of Ibn Zuhr in cosmetology is Kitab al-

Ahmail Ibn Ahmad Qalyubi (d.1049): He has written

zinah (also calledKitab al-iqtisad) with full description

chapter is

of cosmetology. It includes cosmeceuticals for hair, nail,

specially related to cosmetology that is further divided

skin like for namash, kalal barash etc.'nlnal-Taystr

into three sub chapters; first is cosmetology related to

treatise on therapy and management he gives

external and internal parts ofthe body. Second chapter

description of pityriasis versicolor, purpura, scabies' He

is related to hair cosmetics and third is related to cloth

described pityriasis complex and named

and its cleansing."

affecting the head scalp and suggest treatment with tar

"Tailhkirafi al-Ttb wa al-Hikmd". The

Sharaf al-Din

Ismd'il ibn

Husayn

10'h

luriani, [d'f f35

which is accepted as best treatment in contemporary age in the

of Dhakhira Khawdrizm Shahi title "Pakizgi aur arastagi wa perastagi zahire jism

A.D.l: In

It al-lbria

8'h chaptet

form oftar soaP.'

kharajan wa dakhilan" he established 37 chapters (Abwab), on arastagi, tazaeen and tajmeel of skin and

$a'ld bin Hibil Allah (1o73-116s AD): He wrote a book name Al-Mughni fi al-Tibb that describes cosmetology. He bring-up two special chapters for

other organ and recorded hundreds of formulations

those diseases that leads to cosmetic problems' He

regarding this title.

mentioned formulation

includes formulation and

baldness

llke

marahim

(Foot care) and nails, even for the fissure in foot sole, for

mulhima and zamade muhallil after tanquiae badan' Different formulations of the Namsh (naevts), Kalaf

hand soft and smooth etc. He presenteddifferent formulation for'male and for

(melasma/cholasma), Barash (lentigo/ epheiis/ ephelides ), khilan (mole) are described. For the first

females."

Kalaf formtlation appear containing drug e.g. Shiyafe mamisA, Aarade mAsur, Aarade baqila, Mamiran,

procedure for dying and oiling of hair, for fingers of foot

making palm

Abfr-Marwdn 'Abd al-Malik ibn Abi al-'Ald' Ihn Zfihr (t}g4-1162 AD): He has written Al-Taysir fil-

Zarawand, Za&faran, Tukhme kharpaza, Bans ki iad ka

Simplification

chilka (Rind of Bamboo root) , Maghze badam talkh'

Concerning Therapeutics and Diet) His name was

These ingredients should be clean and after grinding

Mudawat wal-Tadbir (Book

Latinized as Avenzoar, Abumeron etc' He mentions cosmetology in his book like a case report. He has speciality

in medicine. He mentions cosmetology

according

organological diseases. He mentioned

different types of

Sr.rr

ma (Kohl) for various stages of life

most commonly used single drugs ate Ismad maghsul,

Tutia, Zare ward and Lajward. He mentions skin

should be tiiturate with honey and apply as paste for

whole night and clean at morning with bhusi water. Many other cosmetics problems like cracking of skin,

excessive sweating, baras

wa bahaq (Vitiligo

andpitryasis alba)is also mentioned. Detail description

of disease and its treatments is mentioned. Now it is published in Arabic text from Beirut Dar al-Nafaes in

(2) |ournal of Research iir'Unani Medicine, 2016,5

Hamiduddin et. al.:Evolution of cosmeceuticals in Unani medicine

manuscript Pharmacopeia of lbn al-Tilmldh, namely

*1999.'o

Muh adhdhib al- Din Ab il' I -H as u n' AII

Ibn

in the twentieth chapter (the last one) he wrote about

Hubdl known us lbn Hubdl (ll2l-1213 AD). He hase

odor removers and anti-perspirant in an independent

written a book KitAb al-Mukhtar atfi al-Tlb(The Book of

chapter. One such prescription

Selections

Medicine), 1165 in Mosul, north of

mentioned

to hold sweat as

dry Coriander refined Tanner's Sumach

All

Baghdad, where lbn Hubal spent most of his life. He

and washed rice ten dirhams each.

describes cosmetology with attention and consideration. About 27 chapters are related to

components are cooked with three pounds of water, until third ofit remains. Then it

cosmetic diseases. He describe many formulations for

of it are drunk every day. After that the body is coated

hair cosmetics e.g. recipes for hair conditioner, recipes

with quince fat, and Armenian mud, butchers broom is

for Muqawwl-i-sha&r (hair straighten), recipes for muhafiz-i-sha\r (hair protector), recipes for

sprinkled over body, and crushed leaves of Tamarisk,

mutawwilr-i-sha\r (hair longer), recipes for munbitr-i-

broom fat and Sanle fat. In prescription of medicine to

sha&r (hair rapid grower), recipes for haliq/nura (hair

cut sweat he mentioned that the body is cleaned with

/ depilatories), recipes for muraqqiql-i-sha\r

rose fat and butchers broom fat, then rose water is

remover

ib n A h m ad

these

is filtered. Three ounces

fine like dust and the body is coated with butchers

(hair thinner), recipes for epilatories, recipes for Khizab

poured on it, and it is spread out."

(hair dyes) specially black, red and white dyes. He

Abu l.Iamid Mufiammad

describes a special chapter for permanent hair remover

Din al-Samarqandi (d.1222 AD): He has written A/-

e.i. decoction of nura mukarar wlth Zarnikh. He

asbab wa-al-'alAm1t (causes and symptoms)

describes cosmetics/cosmeceuticals for glowing of face,

he gave special attention and wrote specific chapter on

whitener and redner, cosmetics for sibgha(skin

cosmetology. The24'nbab (chapter)

colorant)

many

al-Sha'r wa al-Zinat wa al-Azafeer wa al-Atraf" is

formulations in the form of zamad, tila, khizab, nurah

related to cosmetics that further divided into 26 fasl

etc. He also mentioned cosmetics for prevention from

(sub-chapters) especially cosmetic for hair like oil for

for prevention from

hair protector in which Aas , Ward and Murr; hair

e.g. yellow and black are described, and

sunburn and air; cosmetics

cracking of face, lips, palm, soles. A special chapter for

acne vulgaris mentioned

tila

longer

ibn'Ali ibn'Umdr Najib al-

in which Adhane

in which

'fi amraz al-lildwa

harrah qabiza (hot and

prepared with

stringent oils) with Bargetil and Barge kaddu, various

murdarsang, buraq, roghane gul, shunizwithvinegar or

recipes forNu ra,anddyes(black, white, red andbrown)

mitti, buraq, Ltshna, tukhme kharpaza, kharbaq and irsa

are described; for skin he mentioned many recipes for

this formula should be applied

with roghane

Qairuti androghanare described. For cracking of lip he

gul.He also described prevention of excessive sweating

prescribed Roghane gzl, Roghane hina, Shahme bat wa

and makes body fragrance and so many other

bhed, Alakul batm and Qarnul iyyal muharraq, for

cosmetics."

cracking of face Mom, Zufa ratab, Shahme bat, Haldi,

Amin al Dawlah Abu al Basdn $a'1dbin llibat Allfuh bin lbrahim Ibn al-Tilmidh (1073-1165 AD): in his

Parshioshan andLuabe Habbe saforjat.He also describe

as a paste

drug for nail and distal part of the body, Example: For

Journal of Research in Unani Medicine, 2016,5 (2)

Hamiduddin et. al;Evolution of cosmeceuticals in Unani medicine

He also described drug for

cracking of soles Zaft rumi and Zaitun with Basal or

described.

Alakul natm and Zaitun. He described all about the

problems' of the body such

cosmetics in details."His 13th century text is filled

aroma-therapeutic knowledge

with

with chapter

'esthetic

drug for excessive asarcia

(obesogenous drugs), for maintaining the weight, for

getting

rid of the excessive

weight:

lbn

al-Nafis

for diet such as less

aromatic baths and another on aromatic salves and

recommended following steps

powders. Steams and incenses of marjoram, thyme,

consumption of food, taking showers, doing exercise

wormwood, chamomile, fennel, mint, hyssop and dill

while being hungry, sleeping on the land, Wearing

were suggested for sinus or ear congestion. Herbs were

tough clothes (which can be compared today, with the

vapours, or sprinkled on

use of slimmingbelt), Consumption ofbarelybread and

hot stones or bricks."The most sedative scents in order

hot spices, using laxatives and diuretic to get rid of the

of effectiveness were lavender, bergamot, marjoram, sandalwood, lemon and chamomile noted by contemporary study was same noted by Al-

food prior to benefited from

burned in

gourd, breathed

it."

Samarqandi.'o

Da'ild ibn 'Omar al-Darir al-Antakt or David of Antioch (d. 1599): He has written 'Al-Nuzhd' alMubahhajah fi Tashhiz al-Azhan wa Ta'dil al-

'Ala' al-Din 'Ali ibn Abi al-Hazm ma'ritf bi Ibn al-

Amjizah'(also known

Nafis al-Qarsht, Ali (12f 3-1288 AD): In his written

Tadhkira Uh al-Albab). The 7'h chapter is related to

al-Trbb / Muiaz al-Qdnfrn" special

Amraze-Zahira that includes cosmetology. He

work'Al-mujaz

Da'ud ibn '[Jmar al-Antaki:

of cosmetology its

chapter 5'n is related to hair cosmetics specially hair

described the concept

straightening, hair protector, for stronger, longer, and

diseases and its treatment in a very well way.'uln another

rapid growth ofhair, hair remover, thinner, depilatories,

textof Al-Antakiknown as"Bughydh al-Muhtaj

al-

to skin, nail are

Mujarrab min al-Elaj"l8* chapter is related to cosmetology and general beauty for external parts of

lbn al-N afi sdescribed cosmetics for

the body along with preventive aspect, cosmetic types

skin care, hair care and body weight control & diet

and problems. This chapter is further divided into seven

epilatories, hair dyes specially black, red and white dyes.

In other chapters cosmetic described.'nO verall

system. He was eminent for his interest

with cosmetic

sub-chapters that indicate

its importance

and

in that era and the Unani system of

drugs, he classified them very well into Hair problems:

significance

Drugs for maintaining the hair (mix of oils and plants),

Medicine. He elaborates all types of cosmetic problems

hair falls, absence of beard hair, alopecia/

individually."

baldness

(internal and external treatment), drugs for excessive

Ibn Al-Atn Zurbi (d.f 153 AD): Treatise on carbuncles

hair wrinkle, to make hair straight, to make it longer

called Risalatul-Shakfa gives description of

curly and to soften the hair, hair removers and drugs for

carbunculosis, it also deals with skin disease'.

Trichoclasis, drugs that delays canities, tincture to make

Beside above mentioned scholars, many Unani

hair black etc. Drugs for treating skin problems, chloasma and ephelis, ecchymoses and the black

physician

maculae, vitiligo and leprosy, drugs for pediculi etc are

mirzd (f909): In his treatise 'Risala-i-LakhlakhA'

of Indian subcontinent also have

documented cosmetics,

Journal of Research in Unani Medicine, 2016,5 (2)

for example: Haktm Hasan ,

Hamiduddin et. al.:Evohfiion of cosmeceuticals in Unani medicine

mentioned many recipes of aromatic oils,

Itr

and its

preparation methods with images of manufacturing

bhatti, few khamira, Manjan (Sanoon ), missi preparations and formulation for removing bad breath."

in the field of dermatology find in written by Arab I Persian physicians can be categories in three category i.e. skin diseases as a part of internal disease such

tumours, leprosy etc, pure skin disease such

vitiligo,

hyperpigmentation etc and conditions related to skin appendages such as hair, nail etc and categorizedas al-

Zinah (cosmetology).' 1, [Jnani system of medicine several single drugs and compound cosmetic formulations are used to beautiSr the skin, face, hairs, eyes and nails. They work according

to their (Afaal)

pharmacological action and Khilt (humours) of the

in perfect harmony,

person can retain his inner and outer beauty and

believed that presence of toxic materials inside our

body make a person ugly and diseased. Musffi-ikhoonAdvia are one of the therapeutic interventions to

eliminate these conditions.

perfumes, different type

deodorants and anti

perspirant (with many drugs and formulations), after-

bath lotions, powders, sprinkles, pastes, sprays, eye care, skin care, hair care, dying of hair and skin,

Discussion and conclusion

person. When these Khilt are

invention and improvement of distillationby labir ibn Hayyan and Ibne Sina), invention of different t1ryes of

Unani medicine cosmetics can be dealt under Amraz-i-jild was tazyiniyaat (Unani dermatology and cosmetics). The Unani cosmetics are rnainiy based on medicinal herbs and partiallyon mineral or animal sources.'

This work clearly revealed that ancient Unani literature

has an elaborate mention

cosmetic and

cosmeceutical formulations. These formulations are

taking care of appearance and dealing with cosmetic diseases. Various cosmetics and cosmeceuticals prevailing in contemporaryera have been introduces by Unani physicians for example use of light perfumes (by

hyperpigmentation and hypopigmentation skin disorders, nail care in detail etc. They describe even cosmetics for prevention from sunburn and air and also

drug for aesthetic problems of the bodywhich are very

relevant

present era. Formulations and drug

described by Unani Physicians are foundation of many

present day cosmetics and can be good Source for development of effective and innovative cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Still many formulations are unexplored

in respect of its utility in the present scenario. These formulations also need validation according to current scientific parameters so that it can be accepted globally.

Unani cosmetics and cosmeceuticals can be very good choice owing to its range, low cost and safety. They can

also be incorporated as an adjuvant

several

contemporarypreparations and can also be modified in contemporary cosmecutical forms. It can be concluded that Greco - Arab (Unani physician) have given lot of

attention towards cosmetic diseases and appearance and inciuded its management in their medical text beside other disease and consider it an important entity for the well being ofhumanity.

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