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M o i r ac a i nl e o n
CONTENTS
01
02
the order unrecognized c o l l e c t i o n
DOVER STREET MARKET THE FRAGMENTED FACADE COLLECTION
03
04
COLOUR AND PRINT the newhaus kollection
ADIDAS X forward to the past
05 THE ORDER UNRECOGNIZED COLLECTION x h&m
the order unrecognized c o l l e c t i o n
The new science of chaos theory entails the idea that chaos and order are merely two aspects of the same underlying principle, and that chaos is an order unrecognized. The English word ‘Cleve,’ which denotes both the coming together and separation can be taken as the leitmotif of this collection, the tune of which is Astrology. The specific notes of which are each star signs qualities, characteristics and nature. With this information the collection demonstrates through the designs, colours and prints how some star signs are compatible with others, and how some clash. Astrology is a forerunner of our more sophisticated attempts to psychologize humanity.The ways behind human nature are exemplified, with a general theme throughout, flowing and clashing in a consequential system. In life, there are people that naturally, one just clicks with, and a lot of the time, its not necessarily clear why. Alternatively, there are people that for whatever reason, it’s hard to connect with, while people around you, friends of family perhaps, that don’t have the same issue. However, this collection is observing the interactions of people, and their astrological characteristics, and demonstrates in the medium of fashion, why and how humans can interact, relate and connect on a deeper level with others. While alternatively, there is a barrier, and clash, between other humans. Although in life, society and the modern way of living, is almost impossible to escape many interactions, with people one is or isn’t compatible with, yet still has to make it work, for survival. Colours representing star signs, in a contemporary form, with artist like Hans Hofmann, Clyfford still and Mark Rothko, who demonstrate colours rather than image in their work. Some tones that represent compatible signs will ease into each other, with a print that incorporate each other, and compliment one another. In opposition, clashing star sign personalities would have contradicting and conflicting prints and colours, in a more boisterous approach. Certain colours and prints will portray characteristics and qualities exposing the nature of star signs.
brief Some will be compatible, and interlink with each other, in print, colour and structure, and other will clash, and will have to be pulled together by details like oversized eyelets, belts, D rings, and buttons. Bringing together the super imposition of certain non-compatible qualities, in such a way as to eliminate the incongruences apparently inherent in the matériele. Although it may not seem as if the garment construction is meant to fit, or the prints and colours naturally coincide, it is part of the greater concept. The collection is comprised of 6 outfits, with a total of twenty-one garments. Layers are prevalent in the collection, not only because of the A/W trend, but because the layers demonstrate the different personalities of each star sign and horoscope, and the layers of the human psyche portrayed through each persons star sign qualities, and the way it is demonstrated through pattern cutting, details, print and colour. The silhouette and the elements are complimentary, like calling to like. Water (in the ice form) and earth represent a more structured silhouette, while air, fire and liquid water embody the flowing aspect of the universe. The combination of silhouettes, both fluent and structured is a way for the pieces of the collection to be likewise complimentary, like calling to like, allowing the “cleaving” which is the underlying theme of the collection.
The target market is aimed at the more audacious consumer. The cost being at the higher end of the market spectrum, due to luxurious fabrics, digital printed and surface decoration. Being an A/W trend, the collection requires more material, and design. Fabrics include wool, wool crepe, silk, suede, cotton satin, silk twill and silk crepe satin. Knitwear is evenly placed throughout the collection, and with embroidery and etching adorning the jackets, only adds to the attention to detail, elevating the collection within the mid market level. Zoe Kravitz and Lisa Bonet act as the brand ambassadors for the collection, de to their growing recognition, yet cotemporary and fashion forward styles. Being mother and daughter, they demonstrate that good style never goes out of fashion, and their ages appeal to the whole spectrum of ‘The Order Unrecognized Collections’ target market, which ranges from 22-65 yrs, with the price point ranging from £50-2,500. Though ‘The Order Unrecognized Collection’ has some pieces that can be seen as tailored to the younger generation, the numerous layers that make up the collection are created with the intention that older generations can select which garments and outfits they feel most comfortable in, and yet there is enough variation so that they do not feel they are struggling to find one or two pieces they want in each collection, while widening their scope for artistic boldness. The silhouette and the elements are complimentary, like calling to like. Water (in the ice form) and earth represent a more structured silhouette, while air, fire and liquid water embody the flowing aspect of the universe. The combination of silhouettes, both fluent and structured is a way for the pieces of the collection to be likewise complimentary, like calling to like, allowing the “cleaving” which is the underlying theme of the collection. The colour pallet is comprised from carefully selected tones that each represent a sign, with some overlapping, and some sign individual. Through the use of colour, which is emphasized within print, many characteristics are shown in combination, and interlink and clash, in an orderly chaos. The name of the collection is derived from all aspects of the signs characteristics, colour and personality compatibilities. It explains that although something may look like chaos, and altogether a non-understandable situation, there is order, and everything is where it’s meant to be, its just not recognizable for the uneducated eye. Though there is chaos, it is an ordered chaos, just unrecognizable to the viewer.This is the core of the collections theme, and aesthetic. The values reflect consistently well-made clothing, with an inclination to have fashion-forward cuts, alternative prints and colour-combinations. The brand focuses on the quality, and not the quantity, buying one staple piece that lasts, and can be interchangeable with other garments out-with the specific collection. The colour pallet is comprised from carefully selected tones that each represent a sign, with some overlapping, and some sign individual. Through the use of colour, which is emphasized within print, many characteristics are shown in combination, and interlink and clash, in an orderly chaos. The name of the collection is derived from all aspects of the signs characteristics, colour and personality compatibilities. It explains that although something may look like chaos, and altogether a non-understandable situation, there is order, and everything is where it’s meant to be, its just not recognizable for the uneducated eye. Though there is chaos, it is an ordered chaos, just unrecognizable to the viewer.This is the core of the collections theme, and aesthetic.
I dont need to touch them. Not even talk.
“
“
Its often just enough to be with someone.
A feeling passes between you both. Youre not alone.
Mar i lyn M o n r o e
BRIEF
This theme is based around the glitz and glam of Hollywood, celebrities and the ambiguity of their lifestyles. Very rarely is the façade totally opaque, there is always leakage. The apparent freedom of wealth and status is in fact another form of prison. This is the theme at its core. Having stated that the psychological backdrop to Hollywood glamour it is self evident that in keeping with the general law of fact-and-façade the same psychological challenges apply to the population at large. The difference being that celebrities have both the wherewithal and the arena to take this psychological disposition to its highest level. Additionally inspired by the surrealist movement, which is a conceptual depiction of the unrealistic idea of Hollywood, a state of dream converted into a distorted reality. The silhouette is a combination of surrealist shapes, classic Hollywood style and the historical influence. Layers are fundamental for this collection, because the story is told through the layers of apparency. The fashion is merely an outer expression of human psychological truth. Because Hollywood is the backdrop, and the epitome of luxury/idealized fashion then Hollywood is the obvious basis on which to model the sought after target market, with premium and luxurious fabrics to accommodate such a concept. With a slightly ambiguous and dark undertone, the collection is sold at obscure and original stores like Dover Street Market. The colour palette has a mixture of opulent and somber tones, which visually aid the concepts portrayal, of Hollywood, surrealism, and distortion through the medium of fashion. Prints are a portrayal of the surrealist ideology, with a combination of Picasso’s complex fragmented faces, and Andy Warhol’s colour blocks. They are representing the frontage of what Hollywood looks like through the eyes of the audience, and the media, the underbelly of the Hollywood lifestyle.
COLOUR &
P R I NT
“The Newhaus Kollection” is inspired by the Bauhaus movement, where the classic shapes, angles, and colours all come into play through the silhouette and print. The collection maintains the minimal forms of the movement, but has an original and modern edge. “The Newhaus Kollection” is an interpretation of the movement, thus involving a contemporary colour palette, which includes a version of the original primary colours, including additional colours for modernistic markets. The silhouette of the collection stays in keeping with the linear lines and curved circles of the Bauhaus movement, with strong ties to the architecture and artwork.
The prints that run throughout the collection are derived from line drawings. Some are statement placement prints, while others create a more intense coloured repeat pattern, that are paired with some block coloured garments, though serendipitous pattern clashes do create an atmosphere within each outfit. Thus outfits are interchangeable within the compilation as a whole, and also within an outfit. The Bauhaus movement’s ethos is the beauty in something functional, and additionally, having a design that can be mass-produced, for a universal movement. “The Newhaus Kollection” keeps the ethos alive, by having digital print as an easily mass-produced technique, keeping the collection simple in production methods. Nevertheless, the collection is high in price and design quality, placing the brand firmly on the cusp of high-end high street and the bottom bracket of the mid market level. With inspiration from S/S trend forecasting , colours an shapes were supported for a marketable outcome.
Beauty is the “
harmony of purpose and form
“
The fabrics used within the collection are heavily digitally printed; with some block coloured fabrics, to break up the collection. The fabrics are lightweight compositions, which is appropriate for the S/S collection.
Alvar Aalto
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FO RWAR D TO THE P A S T
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A D I D A S
The “Forward to the Past Collection” X Adidas looks at historical sportswear silhouettes and details from the start of the century all the way into futuristic silhouettes, details and fabric. The concept and ethos of the sportswear collection is timeless fashion. This is achieved by there being no era or decade that the garments slot into, even in the future the collection will be fashionable, because the designs were created in a way that no matter what, the garments fit into every fashion fad or style. From past to the future, every decade has been taken into consideration. The colour palette came from an arrangement of reoccurring colours from research, and a modification from the S/S trend ‘Digital Wave’ with the additional futuristic tones of silver and black.
BRIEF The fabrics are a combination of sportswear and sports luxe, with Scuba, Lycra, Jersey, Mesh and Eyelet fabric being among the final compositions. An additional ultramodern style holographic fabric was featured in the line up. The collection is primarily active/ sportswear, however there are pieces that are interchangeable, and can be worn with ready to wear garments in a casual everyday setting. The print idea was inspired by the S/S 16/17 trend ‘Digital Wave’, that caused by modern technology, glitches appear as a subtle feature in the pattern, however in this instance, the prints have taken vintage prints and re-mastered them to have a modern aesthetic, with revived colours, and modern style glitches. Additionally, the prints take the classic Adidas logo, and created a vintage inspired repeat prints, that is re-coloured to the modern style colour palette. The target market is aimed at active18-35’s because of the collections fashion forward and modern approach.
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the order unrecognized collection
The diffusion collection for H&M keeps many of the same key features, and principles as ‘The Order Unrecognized Collection’, conceptualising astrology and zodiac signs is the main feature of the diffusion collection. Changes have been made from the original high-end collection to fit into the lower market segment for H&M. The cost of the diffusion line is more expensive than everyday H&M prices, however from research, the diffusion collections of high end designers have proven that the collaborations prices are more expensive, and consumers buy whatever price is given, within the high end high street prices. Fabrics have remained somewhat luxurious, with the likes of wool and silk. However cheaper fabrics are used, to create an affordable collection, examples include acrylic and polyester. The silhouette remains similar to the main collection, with feminine shapes that encompass the four elements, earth, water, air and fire. Details, panels and shapes highlight body areas that are connected to signs astrological anatomical focuses. Most details remain in both collections to keep the coherence eyelet sizes have been shrunk for the diffusion collection because of price. Quilting has been added, for a cheaper example of laser etching subtle patterns. Embroidery is an additional key feature that has been carried over for the diffusion line. The colour palette has been minimized by approximately four tones for a simpler aesthetic, with a very warm A/ W ambiance, thus appealing to a wider high street audience. The prints are a conceptual, artistic illustration of astrology. Clyfford Still’s work has been an additional inspiration for the diffusion line, and for the embroidery. Drawings of the Taurus bull, Leo lion, and the fire element have inspired repeat prints and big print placements that make up the majority of the prints. The prints are a lot more graphic for the high street collaboration, and less abstract, this is due to the target market audience, and their wants and needs.
COM PAT IBIL ITY