Olympiacos Stadium Piraeus Athens by John Greeves

Olympiacos Stadium Piraeus Athens

by John Greeves

You can play it safe, enclosed in a tourist bubble insulated from the day to day reality of life on the street or you can take a chance and get out there with the locals. It’s just a matter of calculating the odds and having a plan B at hand when you’re abroad. I see the bus from Athens to the Piraeus disappear into the distance. I have no idea how I’ll return to the hotel in central Athens. I’m told Olympiacos FC will be playing S.C Freiburg a German team in the Europa Cup and I’m curious to learn more. Olympiacos Piraeus and Panathinaikos are the two most successful teams in Greece. A bitter rivalry exits between them to such an extent that away fans are banned from each other clubs.

I’m not sure exactly what I have in mind when I visit the stadium, is it to take some photographs and then what? “Signomi, (excuse me)” I say, asking a couple for direction to the stadium which can be seen in the distance but with various impassable obstacles blocking the way. First a fence, then a series of parallel railway tracks and beyond a busy flyover looming high in the sky. “How do I get there” pointing to the stadium. I’m directed to a side street past and then to a footbridge over the railway lines, with further twists and turns to follow, before another footbridge, which will lead me to the stadium. Olympiacos was founded in 1925 after the merger of two local clubs. They play in red and white. Red symbolises passion and white is for purity. Locals nickname them “Thros,” meaning legend or “Erythrolefki” meaning “red-whites.” Their modern stadium was reconstructed in 2004 and has a capacity of 32,115 and is named after Georgios Karaiskakis a Greek national icon of the 19th century. Football is an international language and I see fans queueing for tickets for tonight’s game early in the afternoon. It’s certainly a temptation but will involve more than a ticket alone. You have to become a member and be issued with a membership card. The office is five minutes away on the other side of the stadium. I produce my passport to prove my identity, hand over ten Euros, receive my membership, which then allows me now to buy a ticket. Olympiacos Piraeus is one of the most decorated teams in the world with over 75 titles and are one of the most successful clubs in Greece having won 44 league titles, 27 Greek Cups and 4 Greek Super Cups. I queue for my ticket brandishing my membership like I’m a regular and pay 35 Euros which compares very favourably to Premier League prices. It’s half past four on September 15th and I have three and a bit hours before kick-off. I haven’t figured out how I am going to return to Athens tonight, but first I want to have a look round. There’s a certain amount of time I can spend in the club shop, purchasing a scarf, so I’m not mistaken for one of the visiting German fans and photographing the stadium, especially the infamous Gate 7.

Olympiacos has one of the most forbidding football atmospheres in Europe. After a match against AEK Athens, 21 home fans sadly lost their lives when they were crushed to death at this particular gate. Olympiacos FC had humbled their opponents with a 6 goals to nil win in 1981 and the on rush of fans led to this dreadful outcome. The tribute in the stadium entails 21 black seats forming the number 7 close to the spot where the tragic accident happened.

Today, the majority of the fans come from the city of Piraeus, while a sizeable number come from Athens and other parts of Greece. In the olden days Olympiacos FC had mainly working class supporters but the composition has changed over time. They have fierce ultras known as the Gate 7 who always make their presence felt. I’ve clocked 4 large police buses on the other side with protective windows and seen the gradual emergence of what I take to be riot police. The ultras share the same name as the gate in which they stand. Tifos, flags and red flares are part of every game accompanied with intimidating cries that emanates from their side of the ground. I decide to put my travel arrangements in order before the game starts. The station isn’t far away and has an automated ticket machine, so I can purchase a ticket and check out the platform and the route back after the match. It’s a warm day with temperatures in the high twenties and I’m starting to feel foot-weary. The long afternoon turns to early evening and I find myself talking to a number of Olympiacos fans. Football is on the agenda. They’re not happy with the present manager, Carlos Corberán former manager of Huddersfield Town. Their own Delphic oracle predicts he’s due for the sack, which turns out to be true just a few days later. After only 11 matches and 7 weeks, Carlos Corberán is axed. A simple one-line press release was all that was required and stated: “Olympiacos FC announce the end of cooperation with Carlos Corbéran.” That they didn’t even bother to put the accent in the right place on his surname which speaks volume about the club’s attitude, who will except nothing less than that of being Greek champions.

Kick off isn’t until 7.45, but shortly I hear what I perceive as gun shots, while I’m sitting outside with a beer and a snack talking to other fans. They seem unaffected by a squad of police kitted up with helmets and shields who suddenly appear in a game of cat and mouse with the ultras who are throwing fireworks and flares. Is this typical? The explosions continue, “More nuisance and bravado,” a Greek supporter tells me before he turns down another offer of a beer. He’s not a great fan of Greek Mythos or Fix Hellas beers and prefers the micro brewery beers on his parent’s island of Evia. He introduces me to others friends and football stories are soon voiced, players swapped, highlights described and handshakes exchanged before we go to the stands. The game kicks off under a pyrotechnic display with multiple red flares lit with impunity at the far end of the ground. You could describe the atmosphere as super chalarí (relaxed) when it comes to any attempt to dampen down the flares, or enforcing a smoking ban in the stadium. I’m able to share the game with my son who is watching the game in the UK.

Unfortunately, Olympiacos on this occasion have lost their bite and lose 3 nil to S.C. Freiberg who have bossed the game from the start. This doesn’t seem to have dampened down the ultras at the far end who carry on with their antics as they leave the ground. At the station, one of them lets off a fire extinguisher on the opposite platform. The first trains arrive and make a mockery of the game of sardines. I picked a later one which is less packed and head back to Omonia Square, seven or so stops up the line before I alight to a different normality.

John Greeves originally hails from Lincolnshire. He believes in the power of poetry and writing to change people’s lives and the need for language to move and connect people to the modern world. Since retiring from Cardiff University, Greeves works as a freelance journalist who's interested in an eclectic range of topics.

An Updated Carol

by Jenny Sanders

With apologies to Edward Caswell 1858 — See Amid The Winter’s Snow

See amid the winter’s snow Faithful pilgrims in the pew Weary from demanding days Countries which have lost their way

Bethlehem seems long ago Real change is deathly slow Singing hearts have lost their breath All around is bleak with death.

Say, ye rulers what you may Failing to bring hope today Ancient ways are long forgot No one’s happy with their lot

Bethlehem seems long ago Real change is deathly slow Can we hope for better things Will we ever sing again?

Christmas is a good excuse Indulge in turkey or roast goose. Forget your sorrow if you can: Drink, embrace your fellow man

Bethlehem seems long ago Real change is deathly slow Can the truth of Bethlehem Change our hearts and come again?

There the Christ child on the hay Brought us hope that Christmas Day He’s the one to change our hearts Salvation dawns with a fresh start

God and man in tune at last Forgiveness for our hurting past Freedom now to worship Him Jesus Christ the King of Kings.