SIPPING

A rise in single-focus hotel bars specialising in whisky are giving the drink new life whilst engaging guests with refined yet accessible menus.

Words: Anna Sulan Masing

Hotel bars have always exuded a certain glamour, but in the last five years they have arguably developed into a more accessible space for all, and a place to have a great drink at any time of day.

Ace Hotels were early adopters, creating hospitality environments that appealed to food- and drink-focused locals. The group’s Portland property, opened in 2006, exemplifies this by way of partnerships with award-winning venues Clyde Common and Pepe Le Moko – next door and downstairs respectively.

In the last year, however, we’ve seen hotel bars stepping things up again, specialising their approach and taking deep dives into the world of whisky. With the drink undergoing something of a renaissance at the moment, hospitality F&B spaces can offer an intimate setting where guest and server can delve into this drink with creativity and detail. This revitalisation is down to innovation, changing palates and new stories.

Becky Paskin is a whisky expert and the co-founder of OurWhisky, an online platform launched in 2018 to challenge outdated stereotypes around the beverage. This year it grew into an educational space, guiding new drinkers – a younger, curious and more gender-balanced crowed – into their favourite dram.

Paskin explains: “The industry is shaking off its dusty image, and the rulebook that governed how whisky should be drunk has also been thrown out – drinkers are increasingly encouraged to enjoy their whisky however they please, and cocktails have become exceedingly popular, driven by the seductive Old Fashioned and zesty Whisky Sour.” Whisky makers are also becoming much more innovative, she adds. “This has resulted in an endless spectrum of flavours to explore; there’s an option to suit every palate.”

An excellent example of innovation in flavour is Westward Whiskey in Oregon, USA, a brand that has been pioneering the American single malt category, and whose signature drink is highly reflective of environment and locale.

Miles Munroe, Head Distiller and Blender, explains: “The Pacific Northwest not only yields incredible raw materials, but it also has dynamic craftspeople. One of our more unique collaborations is with Ken Forkish, an award-winning Portland baker, with whom we make a sourdough whiskey.”

He continues: “Our heritage is deeply steeped in the brewing culture, and we are within the same valley as many world class pinot noir producers,” – a proximity that has led to Oregon stout casks and pinot noir cask finishes. Munroe says this not only creates a distinct flavour, but also offers

The signature drink from Oregon’s Westward Whiskey is reflective of environment and locale

different stories to be told with the serving, and a collaborative working method that ultimately broadens who whisky is for.

London in particular has seen a surge in whisky focused establishments, with new hotels excelling in this. Great Scotland Yard in Mayfair opened in December 2019, where one of the bars, Sibín, is a dedicated whisky space that reflects this shift in perception.

“Until recently we were told more about what not to add to your whisky, and how not to drink it, rather than how to enjoy it,” says Michal Maziarz, Bars Manager at the hotel. “Whisky was reserved for upper-class men smoking cigars. But 80% of whisky worldwide has always been drunk with a mixer, and luckily the industry has recognised this.”

Maziarz believes that it might not be that drinkers are changing, but rather it is the expertise of the bar world helping guests better understand the spirit. “We do hear ‘I don’t like whisky’ often, but have a high success rate in converting those people,” he says. “It is the expertise and confidence of professionals, and an increasing number of single-focus bars, that encourages people to try what that particular bar does best.”

Combined with the range of whiskies now available, this has seen bartenders becoming increasingly specific as to what they use in cocktails. “We are using much more niche whiskies – from robust to light, as well as more subtle and fragrant ones that are almost like a light rum,” Maziarz explains. “There is a place for all of them in shakers and mixing glasses around the world.”

“Hotel bars have moved out of their comfort zones; they are now more challenging in terms of creativity. ” ENRICO GONZATO

At Sibín, the menu seeks to push boundaries and play with flavours. The bar’s Old Fashioned – a cocktail optimised for the showing off of whisky – is the most popular, based on an Australian single malt, Starward. Other, fruitier favourites include Pink Label – with Johnnie Walker Black Label, raspberries and a smoky ginger ale – and Blue Dog, made with Milk & Honey (a single malt from Tel Aviv’s first distillery) shaken with blue curacao, vermouth bianco and lemon.

Across London meanwhile, The Stratford opened at the end of 2019, where bar manager Enrico Gonzato explains that the shift in attitude has created strong foundations for developing specialist programmes. “Hotel bars have moved out of their comfort zones; they are now more challenging in terms of creativity,” he offers.

The Mezzanine – the hotel’s flagship bar – found that a focus on whisky gave them a clear identity. “Whisky has many different styles; we focused on cask finishes and have a strong American selection. Every bottle is carefully considered in terms of why it belongs here,” Gonzato muses.

Like Sibín, Pine Bar at The Biltmore Mayfair, also opened at the end of 2019, features a robust whisky list, and is in the process of developing a specific, dedicated programme, kicking off with a whisky trolley in the next few months. The aim is to create a more interactive way into the category, allowing guests to feel more comfortable with experimenting.

Coming from a slightly different angle is Black Rock, a specialist bar and tavern which launched a hotel in January – The Black Rock Lodge. Inspired by Tokyo’s capsule hotels, the rooms are a combination of luxury and minimalism, in the heart of the city and above their own bars. This move is based on its fundamental ethos of hospitality. “We wanted to create a great space, that happens to have a lot of whisky,” Operations Manager Matthew Hastings says. “Black Rock offers a variety of experiences and activities such as tasting sessions, blending classes, an award-winning basement bar, and a more relaxed tavern. It felt natural to build a space for guests to stay.”

The brand’s basement bar displays whisky by flavour profile – Smoke, Fruit, Balance, Fragrance, Spice and Sweet. Echoing Paskin, Hastings says this allows drinkers to find the right whisky for their palate, shifting the beverage into a space of experimentation and fun. The whisky bottles are contained in glass-

The Bulleit-based No Shake Sour at London’s Black Rock Tavern, a specialist whisky bar with rooms

fronted display cabinets, demonstrating the broad range of identity and character. Simple, classic designs sit alongside fun, colourful illustrative labels, and origins vary. Having the bottles in cabinets for guests to easily access is a clear move away from any elitist illusions.

And it isn’t just London where this focus is claiming ground; Rosewood Yangon opened in Myanmar in February and features the Courtroom bar, where the whisky selection takes centrestage. The newly opened Monkey Island Estate in Bray, meanwhile, has a Whisky Snug accessible by secret staircase, and will be launching further experiences across the year.

The Glasshouse in Edinburgh recently announced an Elite Whisky Experience that includes a tasting dinner, a personal guided distillery tour and a two-night stay in the beautiful Islay Suite. And YTL Hotels has launched its own brand of whisky in collaboration with Adelphi, an acclaimed Scottish bottler of rare single cask and limitededition single malts. Bottles are available across UK properties, and will soon be rolled-out to its hotels globally.

The Glasshouse’s General Manager Tom Gibson describes the drink as “evocative of a summer Scottish breakfast with buttered oatcakes and heather honey. Guests can look forward to flavours including dark cherry, white peach, and kiwi fruit compote and hazelnut spread on well-toasted drop scones.”

Looking ahead, Paskin believes there is more innovation on the horizon, from exploration of different grains and yeast types to cask finishes. It would seem that whisky is the drink to get behind, to have fun with, and to take in new, creative directions. Together, these elements offer hospitality venues a new way to engage with their guests, creating memorable moments and interactions whilst challenging the status quo. Hotel whisky bars could soon become the place to be, on any occasion.