SERVICE
Mediterranean Magic Chef Jun Tanaka overcomes the challenges of opening a restaurant in the midst of a pandemic to introduce his Mediterranean cuisine to Hong Kong’s The Upper House. Words: Heleri Rande
I
like food that reminds me of being on holiday,”
Crowning The Upper House in Hong Kong, Salisterra
begins Jun Tanaka as we take a seat at his London
– formed from the Latin words ‘salis’ for salt and ‘terra’
flagship, The Ninth on Charlotte Street, just a
for earth – captures the richness of the Mediterranean
few days after indoor hospitality venues were
in both its cuisine and interiors. Designed by André Fu,
permitted to reopen in England. His words hint
who has been working through a series of upgrades at
to the Mediterranean style that has become his
the property, the new concept draws on the colours
specialty, but also serve as a timely reminder of the
and flavours of the Mediterranean for an elegant
power dining experiences can have in transporting us
addition to the city’s dining scene.
around the world – particularly at a time when travel isn’t possible.
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Despite having not yet been able to set his foot in the newly opened restaurant, Tanaka is focused on the
The current climate has had a major impact on
positives of the entire experience. No stranger to TV
hospitality, and as countries impose restrictions faster
appearances – the likes of BBC One’s Saturday Kitchen
than the industry can react, the pains of cancelling and
and Chopped Champions decorate his resumé – Tanaka
postponing plans not only affects the paying customer,
used his on-camera presenting skills to create step-
but the engine that keeps a restaurant operational.
by-step guides for more than one-hundred dishes to
Chef Tanaka is no stranger to this new world order,
train the team in Hong Kong. “The camera work was
having had to open Salisterra – his first endeavour
a little rough-around-the-edges,” he quips, “but this
outside London – via Zoom calls, video presentations
was the best way to convey technical recipes.”
and WhatsApp chats. “It has been a lot of work, but
One thing that can’t be conveyed through a screen
shows that it is possible to do it all remotely,” he says.
however, is the sense of taste, and this has proved
“Being closed for business in London, I was able to
a major challenge in creating culinary experiences
direct more time to the development of Salisterra and
remotely. “Everyone’s flavour profile is different
training the kitchen team.”
and our language is not precise enough to convey the
